As an electronic technician for the last 15 years, this is the best simple practical explanation of small scale solar I've seen. Great work! This is the video I'll refer people to.
Hi Ronny, Dave from Rolasolar here. Great video some added information for your viewers. Temperature Coefficient: Solar panel temperature is one of the important factors that affects how much power a solar panel will produce. So the more sunshine generally the hotter the solar panels get and this in turn reduces the solar panel output. In some cases the heat can reduce output by 10% to 25% depending on your specific location. Looking at the manufacturer's data sheet a term called "temperature coefficient at Pmax" should be listed. For example a monocrystalline solar panel with a temperature coefficient at Pmax of 0.50% means is that for each degree over 25˚C the maximum power of the panel is reduced by 0.50%. So on a hot day at a solar panel temperature of 45˚C the power would be reduced by 10%. Conversely in cool conditions output would be higher and in temperatures below 25˚C the output can be high then rated. Not all solar panels are affected by heat equally and some do much better at coping with the heat than others. Amorphous solar cells are known for their low light performance and shade tolerance. They also are also better in high heat conditions than monocrystalline and polycrystalline cells due to their lower temperature coefficient value. Amorphous solar cells will always yield more power into your batteries throughout the day then mono of poly of the same size. If retailer can't provide the temperature coefficient values for the solar panel - walk away. Best way to prevent heat loss with mounting semi flexible solar panels directly to metal surfaces is to mount them on a backing material like core flute which allows air flow under the solar panel.
Hi, Dave from Rolasolar here again. Some added info for mobile and portable solar panel buyers: Did you know that most mobile/portable solar isn't certified like building solar. This leaves the buyer open to being scammed with uderrated and poor quality solar? How do you know that a solar panel is underrated for its size, because there is a standard size for a solar panel for the power output. 12V monocrystalline solar panels with a cell efficiency of around 17- 20% should be roughly 0.0064m2 per watt. If there is a substantial variance from that, you are being misled. Listed below are rough sizing you should be looking for in a monocrystalline solar panel: 80W panel = 0.512m2 100W panel = 0.640m2 120W panel = 0.768m2 150W panel = 0.960m2 160W panel = 1.024m2 200W panel = 1.280m2 250W panel = 1.600m2 300W panel = 1.920m2 If you want to know that the panel you are looking at is actually the wattage advertised, do the math above, or jump on a reputable sellers websites like Everdrive or Redarc and compare sizes. As an Example one of the 200W fixed solar panels from online is 1170mm x 510mm or 0.597m2 which equates to approx a 95W solar panel. This scam has been going around for years but seems to be ripe on the auction and other cheap product websites. Do your own research don't be misled by the scammers.
I have a 250 watt foldable solar panel connected to a Projecta DC to DC charger in my camper that has 2x 100 amp hour batteries. We run coffee machines, fridges lights and other auxiliary power, and have never run out of power. I think your video this morning was very informative for anyone starting out. Weld one and keep up the good work.
Hey Rob ! Can you tell us the brand of your solar panel ? Cause your setup is pretty much the same as mine, but I just want to buy some new solar panel !
Thanks Ronny. One man can only research so many things or comprehend so many, that is why someone like yourself is such a great resource, not to leave out great videos!
Tip: If you got the space on you car (approx 1700x1000mm)and a charger/mmpt that can handle the higher output voltage (approx 35v), talk to you local solar sparky. They often got old house mounted solar panels they are happy to get rid of. You often get em for free or for a carton/six pack. Got a 220W panel for free and intend to run it with a Victron cyrix-ct vsr and a smartsolar 75/15 (or bigger). Get a deep cycle battery and you got a set up with enough power for 500ish $, unless you can source a deep cycle battery for cheap (ask a fire sprinkler guys etc). Don't go camping very often so I try not to "waste" a lot of money in big brands.
SKIP TO ANY PART HERE: 0:01 intro 0:35 Battery Power (batt bank) 1:57 Mono/Poly/Amorphous SOLAR CELLS 4:57 Fixed Panels (pros cons) 6:55 Foldable Solar Panels 8:26 Solar Blankets 9:55 Clean Panels are key 11:27 The Shadow Factor 12:47 Do I need Cheap or High Quality?? 15:21 SOLAR REGULATORS + CONTROLLER 18:37 Budget system
you forgot to mention that glass is the only transparent material that can last in the sun full time. all the flexible panels will only have a service life of 6 months permanently in the sun before they go opaque or delaminate and then output only 1/10th of their rating
2JZZ12 Cheap material usually PET can have the clouding affect and can deteriate after constant UV exposure. ETFE material used on quality semi and flexible solar panels has been UV tested for thousands of hours. Its the same material used on flexible grid tied solar panels approved for a 20+ year service life. With all solar panels as with all products you get what you pay for.
I have been thinking about a solar setup for when I get back on the road for many years. I bit the bullet and started on the setup. I've gone with 2 x 138A/h AGMs, 2 x 160W fixed panels, a 12 Volt controller and DC-DC charger/regulator, and a 3000W pure sine wave inverter (I'll be using a computer and other electronics). I've got a 3000W petrol genset as a backup. It may be overkill but I will be using a fair bit of power. The ute will basically be a mobile bush mechanic's workshop (and video/photography studio) with a fridge, shower, stove, and bed.
Great video! While watching, i was actually wanting co comment on the thing where if you're on a budget, you'd be better off spending more on the controller and skimping on the panels, but then you made that point at the end, so good on you! But it's also nice that your videos cater for budget/DIY guys, in that you agree that sometimes you can buy the medium quality stuff, and basically get the best you can afford. Lots of other guys on TH-cam are all "Get this because it's the best, Don't worry about that second mortgage.." Thanks from South Africa, Keep up the great videos!!!
I've been yousing sola for 15 years and I liked what this bloke has learnt,and has helped me a bit more than a little bit,,,,thank you from brad the sale shade inventor,,,,, you did good fella
This is such a good video bro... exactly what I need learning to get get onto 4wd life. You break everything down in perfect detail and no bs. What a legend
my 2Ct for PV install: I agree with your argumentation allover, this is an extremely good explanation for starters - IF money isnt´t 1rst argument - but quality. Best efficiency will be with MPPT and PV in 2x series. BUT: You save > 100€ with PWM controller and loose ~20% efficiency. An additional 100Watt PV Panel is less than that! [btw, as you said: these measurements are taken @ 25°C, @ higher temps PV loose efficiency!] Semi flex gives you more opportunities for installation, like on slight rounded areas, @ the side of the truck etc. PLUS these have rings to fix them easy and fast - e.g. to undo and put them into the sun. I would strongly suggest a smaller LipoFe over a much bigger AGM. Better install a second LipoFe additionally later when budget is available. Saves lot of weight and space!!! 90% out of them vs. 50% + min. 3 longer life time. Example: My setup will be the following on my Van (in mid Europe): 2x 100 watt semiflex on my roof, that will be unscrewable if needed, PWM + AGM @ first, later LipoFe. What I will loose in efficiency on controller will be covered by the second PV. Note: I will have no fridge, winch to be running. Nothing in my kitchen. only luxery stuff like Smartphone, Tablet, Cam, lights inside, music, heater. I need lots of juice for starting my Diesel in the cold, Glow plug etc.
3 x 120w foldable panels from ebay (other $120 each), ripped the PWMs off, replaced the diodes for schottky's as the panels themselves were German qulity. Then mounted the epever tracer Mppt 30cm from the 300ah Giant battery + dual battery 150amp fused blah blah.. 7 months touring east coast of Aus with 2 x 40 litre fridge / freezer.. worked a treat.
I have a Kings folding panels which I had mounted flat on my roof rack, used only when parked up for a few days. It worked ok. I have since mounted a hard shell roof top tent, so I have now got a kings solar blanket which will be used when parked up on my next trip in a couple of weeks.
What did that cheeky bugger in the background do with your blanket haha? Great video as always! Here's a couple questions for your next video: - Permanently mounted dual battery system or a portable battery box, which is best? - What should I look for in a battery box? - Which companies (preferably Australian) sell the high-end A+solar panels? - Are lithium batteries worth it? - What are your best tips for minimising power consumption?
good run down on solar thanks Ronnie, we have a cheep folding panel which came with an "MPPT" controller, I chucked the controller and as you said have a DCDC controller near the batteries in our camper. this also provides a proper charge from the car when towing. its only a 120w panel but it runs the 70L fridge and our lights just fine.
One problem not mentioned is the vehicle mounting of fixed panels; I have more cracked and damaged panels as 4X4's are flexible and so are their bodies, when mounting a fixed panel I always use rubber exhaust bobbins as this gives more under panel cooling and the flexibility of the rubber gives enough movement to counter the flexing of the panel.
Great video. Thanks heaps. Perhaps could have given some idea about cable thickness.i really needed a basics video to get a starter handle on it. You gave me much more. Gratful!
Great video. General question. I have the hard fixed panel like in this video (with the mppt controller in the back). Can I plug that straight into my bc2bc charger without bypassing the build in controller on the panel? (I incidentally have the same redarc bc2bc charger too in this video). Should I just rip it off? Also, what are the repercussions of just leaving it and going from one regulator into the redarc one? The reason I ask is because I'd like to leave it there so I can use it for other uses that's all. Not a biggie if I have to rip it off though. Cheers.
Pretty good overview. I like how you pointed out the efficiency gains of the amorphous (most people simply say they are "less efficient" because they require more surface area per watt. Is a tractor less efficient that a micro car when plowing a field? Of course not). You didn't mention that the amorphous panel is also more efficient in hotter conditions, though all panels do lose efficiency as they heat up, as you mentioned. An amorphous panel will still continue to put out amps as the sun sets, well after the mono has shut down. If amorphous were only slightly more expensive, I couldn't understand choosing anything else, unless you were really tight on room. As it is, there is a huge price difference. Overall, very good overview.
Love your work Ronny, keep them coming mate! I have 120w blanket that seem to keep up with the 80L dual zone fridge when parked up for the day, with a 130 Ah AGM dual battery wired in, and I use AC charger every so often.
Hi Ronny, Thank you so much mate. Beautifully explained. Could you please do a video on following points while camping in Australia for beginners? This is beautiful country and would benefit beginners. Good man. Thanks again. 1. Do's and Don'ts 2. How safe is it camping in remote area in terms of wild animals, emergency , etc etc 3. How safe it is to camp in public area especially when you are accompanied with a Girlfriend, Wife or with a family with kids. Is there any treat from humans who would have drunk? 4. Tips to avoid camp sites yet safe to spend night. Appreciated!
I like house panels, might be a bit big for a 4x4 but on even a small caravan/ poptop it's probably the best way to go. They're not only cheap (about $20 for 195w) but the higher voltage helps alot, mines a 7.something amp 40v panel and even in the shade and sometimes at night it will still charge because it still sends a high enough voltage to the mppt for it to work(highest ive seen at night was 2A in but its better than nothing). I did a week long trip with the van parked the whole time under a tree and by lunch time it was basically float charging.
Very professional and concise video. Absolute Champion! I came away more knowledgeable about the basics of solar panel and controller quality and differences effecting efficiency - all in a short ‘to-the-point’ video. You know your stuff and value the viewers time. Thankyou 🙏🏻 Keep up the great work. 👌
I run the kings panels but as mentioned the regulators are not the best so just removed the kings one and purchased a stand alone red arc 20A regulator. And wired the panels through that.Works brilliantly.
HI RONNY / Watched a video today about 12 volt set ups great to see some one with a who makes videos that are easy to watch and easy to understand would like to help you with your quest . would like to talk more soon THANKS . Rocky.
I have a fixed panel on the roof but have a blanket I can run out when camped up as well. Just wired the plugs in parallel and feed into my 1225D BCDC. Works really well.
thanks so much mate, i love your videos and passion that goes into them. im getting ready to set up a new dual cab and hit the cape and fraser. you have taken all the guess work out of my planning. thanks again, be safe... dave
the trick with solar panels is how many you can run in series.. 2 of a vs 3-4 of b may benefit you quicker Do a proper power draw test If I was going to look at battery power running electrical I would consider going 4 or however big the tray space is make sure all your batteries is of the same rating never use a high rating with a lower rating because 1 will flatten the other Given the cost of AGM's you might want to consider lithium batteries as the power source given their longevity
Good vid mate I have used a kings solid hinged panel run straight to my battery once parked up, been awesome so far over the last 4 years been N,E,S and W plenty of power (160W I believe) for general travel inc one fridge lights for night Etc 👍
more on solar please. Like I'm still just fantasizing about overlanding, so three different lists or categories of functionality would be GOLDEN. EX: when starting out, If you have this many machines pulling this many amps, then go with "x". And so on. Or if you're going on a two day sight seeing road trip, you'll probably want "x", if you're gonna camp, you'll probably want this and that, so you'll need about "y". Et cetera. That's the kind of stuff I'm searching for. thanks! BTW Im from south Texas so semi-arid conditions for the most part...and I just got a Taco TDR off road.
I agree with you about spending a bit more on the solar regulator, I spent just over $100 on a 200W polychristalline panel with the cheap blue regulators you see on ebay. Panel is great, but the regulator is crap, not enough settings on it, can overcharge the battery & the chinglish instructions are next to useless!
Great vid, looking forward to part 2. Watch out for cheap MPPT controllers, I've seen plenty on eBay which look exactly the same as the eBay $20 PWM ones. Do the research to make sure you're getting a good MPPT controller.
From what i understand MPPT charge at high amps which isn't as good for the battery. Where as PWM charges slightly lower which is ideal for deep cycle. As long as you have the correct size panel for your requirement thats the key.
A good MPPT charger will let you set the charging amps to suit your battery capacity, and therfore optimum charge rate. For example, if your battery is 100AH then you generally want to charge it at around 10A. A victron smart solar MPPT charger will let you set this in the configuration. Everything about MPPT is better.
Really good Video Ronny. Perfect for general consumption. I've moved to 200Ah Lead Crystal and 200watts of Solar. MPPT in DC- DC charger. Additional blanket to increase system to 380watts if need be :-) Also take a Noco 7.2Amp smart charger, comes in handy more than you'd think.
Just be careful with the Lead Crystal Batts. They need a charge rate of 30% of your storage, IE 200AH of battery, needs 60amp/hour charger connected to your dc-dc charger. The solar does not need to be that big as it is OK to charge them slower for awhile, however you do need to give the batts that big faster charge very couple of weeks ideally. If you are able to access 240 volt mains power and use a large mains charger, that is OK also of course. If you are able to get the charge into them regularly, they are a great choice as they are able to be drawn down much further than AGM's
Here's my car/tent camping setup: I have a 100 watt flexible monocrystalline panel, 25 feet (7.6 meters) of 10 gauge twisted copper cable with Anderson quick disconnects to an MPPT charge controller, & a 35 amp hour AGM battery. It's perfect to charge my phone, run a portable TV, run a 12 volt fan for those hot nights & power some LED lights for the tent. There's even household current through a car power inverter if I need it. The battery, charge controller & inverter fit inside of a marine battery box for portability. The cost of the solar system is around $500 USD.
We run the REDARC BMS30 paired with the 190w Solar Blanket and a 2000w Inverter. Primarily use it for charging our camera equipment when filming and editing the days action while chilling out at a lit up camp site. Would definitely not feel as safe plugging expensive gear into cheaper quality solar products. Definitely need to uprade the 120AH Lead Acid battery to a Lithium sometime soon though we always seem to set the low batt alerts off late at night when editing.
Great video Ronnie, keep it up! I recently bought an Intervolt DCDC (which is a Perth company) for my Prado and caravan aux, how about a review video? Very happy with it, and love supporting local
We dont get too much sun here in Ireland, but Ive found that when it is very sunny my ARB fridge takes my leisure battery down below the low voltage cutoff and I wake up to my fridge around 4c instead of 1c. So Im looking for a solar panel for the roof, just enough to give a wee boost on the rare days that its hot and the fridge is using more power.
Great video Ronny. I just purchased a 50L frighted for my Jeep and I am looking at ways to keep the single battery charged up. The 2 door Jeep has space as a premium and since I have a hardtop, I am looking at the 100w solid panel attached to my roof to charge my system and keep the refrigerator performing at 100%. I usually overnight camp and then hit the trails when the sun comes up - not much into the base camp stuff.
I've heard from an electrical engineer that PWM-regulators are good for lead-acid batteries since it provides a good "pulse-charge" that makes you change your batteries less often. For lithium however, MPPT is superior.
I'd add that 1 Tier, 2nd Tier and 3rd Tier PV panels can also be explained in terms of output over time. They will all start off the same, even outputting more than claimed in cool sunny conditions. But after 5 years+ the 2nd and 3rd Tier panels show noticable reduction in output compared to a Tier 1 panel
For a quality dcdc charger that is wired ready to use have a look at the Kickass products. They supply the Projecta dc charger already wired , just plug and play.
More efficient to run the longer cable at higher voltage too, for less voltage drop. Not a huge difference if you use good cable but every AH counts and you can be sure that if your CC is putting out 14.4V to the battery over a short, fat cable then your battery is getting 14.4V. Doing that over a longer cable and your battery could be getting a lot less V.
4:20 it means the amorphous unit is better for locations farther from the equator, whether North or South of the equator. ( Australians are Aussie Centric lol)
Had an Engle fridge and measuring it’s consumption rendered it useless. The non energy efficient non inverter controlled units are power hungry, go to an inverter energy efficient CFX Waeco or similar and you’ll cut the consumption by a massive amount. I can run the CFX off a standard lead acid car battery with no solar panels for 3 days, same experiment with the Engel was two hours. I’d say concentrate more money on the powered devices rather than the bank that powers it.
We camp in shady spots in the high country. Portable panels are great but the shade from trees usually blocks them as well. I bought a cheap Aldi 700watt 4 stroke generator and a 20 amp eBay 4 stage battery charger as a backup. I run a 240 volt 65litre bar fridge in the pop top van from an inverter. I usually am OK with the 400 watts of solar on the roof running the system even in partial shade. I use the generator on cloudy days for an hour to tickle the 250 amps of batteries. The system works really well. Can you do a video on generators as well.
Absolutely brilliant. If I run a dual battery system could I run a normal battery for the vehicle battery up front and a 200amp deep cycle battery at the back for my fridge?
The product is really excellent. It works like a charm
As an electronic technician for the last 15 years, this is the best simple practical explanation of small scale solar I've seen. Great work! This is the video I'll refer people to.
Hi Ronny, Dave from Rolasolar here. Great video some added information for your viewers.
Temperature Coefficient:
Solar panel temperature is one of the important factors that affects how much power a solar panel will produce. So the more sunshine generally the hotter the solar panels get and this in turn reduces the solar panel output. In some cases the heat can reduce output by 10% to 25% depending on your specific location. Looking at the manufacturer's data sheet a term called "temperature coefficient at Pmax" should be listed. For example a monocrystalline solar panel with a temperature coefficient at Pmax of 0.50% means is that for each degree over 25˚C the maximum power of the panel is reduced by 0.50%. So on a hot day at a solar panel temperature of 45˚C the power would be reduced by 10%. Conversely in cool conditions output would be higher and in temperatures below 25˚C the output can be high then rated. Not all solar panels are affected by heat equally and some do much better at coping with the heat than others. Amorphous solar cells are known for their low light performance and shade tolerance. They also are also better in high heat conditions than monocrystalline and polycrystalline cells due to their lower temperature coefficient value. Amorphous solar cells will always yield more power into your batteries throughout the day then mono of poly of the same size. If retailer can't provide the temperature coefficient values for the solar panel - walk away.
Best way to prevent heat loss with mounting semi flexible solar panels directly to metal surfaces is to mount them on a backing material like core flute which allows air flow under the solar panel.
Rolasolar Nice to get some cold hard facts out there :-)
Rolasolar ;
Thanks for info Dave 👍
Hi, Dave from Rolasolar here again. Some added info for mobile and portable solar panel buyers:
Did you know that most mobile/portable solar isn't certified like building solar. This leaves the buyer open to being scammed with uderrated and poor quality solar?
How do you know that a solar panel is underrated for its size, because there is a standard size for a solar panel for the power output.
12V monocrystalline solar panels with a cell efficiency of around 17- 20% should be roughly 0.0064m2 per watt. If there is a substantial variance from that, you are being misled.
Listed below are rough sizing you should be looking for in a monocrystalline solar panel:
80W panel = 0.512m2
100W panel = 0.640m2
120W panel = 0.768m2
150W panel = 0.960m2
160W panel = 1.024m2
200W panel = 1.280m2
250W panel = 1.600m2
300W panel = 1.920m2
If you want to know that the panel you are looking at is actually the wattage advertised, do the math above, or jump on a reputable sellers websites like Everdrive or Redarc and compare sizes.
As an Example one of the 200W fixed solar panels from online is 1170mm x 510mm or 0.597m2 which equates to approx a 95W solar panel.
This scam has been going around for years but seems to be ripe on the auction and other cheap product websites. Do your own research don't be misled by the scammers.
So best thing to do is set up your solar panel when it's raining! 😁
I have a 250 watt foldable solar panel connected to a Projecta DC to DC charger in my camper that has 2x 100 amp hour batteries. We run coffee machines, fridges lights and other auxiliary power, and have never run out of power. I think your video this morning was very informative for anyone starting out. Weld one and keep up the good work.
Rob Blane Totally agree with that level of Solar and Storage
Hey Rob ! Can you tell us the brand of your solar panel ? Cause your setup is pretty much the same as mine, but I just want to buy some new solar panel !
Thanks Ronny. One man can only research so many things or comprehend so many, that is why someone like yourself is such a great resource, not to leave out great videos!
Tip:
If you got the space on you car (approx 1700x1000mm)and a charger/mmpt that can handle the higher output voltage (approx 35v), talk to you local solar sparky. They often got old house mounted solar panels they are happy to get rid of. You often get em for free or for a carton/six pack.
Got a 220W panel for free and intend to run it with a Victron cyrix-ct vsr and a smartsolar 75/15 (or bigger).
Get a deep cycle battery and you got a set up with enough power for 500ish $, unless you can source a deep cycle battery for cheap (ask a fire sprinkler guys etc).
Don't go camping very often so I try not to "waste" a lot of money in big brands.
About time someone can talk the walk,big thumb's up,
SKIP TO ANY PART HERE:
0:01 intro
0:35 Battery Power (batt bank)
1:57 Mono/Poly/Amorphous SOLAR CELLS
4:57 Fixed Panels (pros cons)
6:55 Foldable Solar Panels
8:26 Solar Blankets
9:55 Clean Panels are key
11:27 The Shadow Factor
12:47 Do I need Cheap or High Quality??
15:21 SOLAR REGULATORS + CONTROLLER
18:37 Budget system
you forgot to mention that glass is the only transparent material that can last in the sun full time. all the flexible panels will only have a service life of 6 months permanently in the sun before they go opaque or delaminate and then output only 1/10th of their rating
This comment made the video 100x better. Really Good Work Mate
2JZZ12 Cheap material usually PET can have the clouding affect and can deteriate after constant UV exposure. ETFE material used on quality semi and flexible solar panels has been UV tested for thousands of hours. Its the same material used on flexible grid tied solar panels approved for a 20+ year service life. With all solar panels as with all products you get what you pay for.
Links to products please ? thank you
Did you make the video on how many watts you need? Can’t find it.
Awesome practical video with no marketing BS
NOT
I have been thinking about a solar setup for when I get back on the road for many years. I bit the bullet and started on the setup.
I've gone with 2 x 138A/h AGMs, 2 x 160W fixed panels, a 12 Volt controller and DC-DC charger/regulator, and a 3000W pure sine wave inverter (I'll be using a computer and other electronics). I've got a 3000W petrol genset as a backup. It may be overkill but I will be using a fair bit of power. The ute will basically be a mobile bush mechanic's workshop (and video/photography studio) with a fridge, shower, stove, and bed.
Perfect no nonsense, no rambling straight to the point video 👍🏽 Cheers
After all the effert you spent, someone selects dislike!!!why?
Thank you very much for this effert,your explanation is the best I have ever watched👍👍👍
I do a lot with remote solar systems, I found your video to be excellent, spot on and easy to understand, very good, thanks for doing.
Great video! While watching, i was actually wanting co comment on the thing where if you're on a budget, you'd be better off spending more on the controller and skimping on the panels, but then you made that point at the end, so good on you!
But it's also nice that your videos cater for budget/DIY guys, in that you agree that sometimes you can buy the medium quality stuff, and basically get the best you can afford. Lots of other guys on TH-cam are all "Get this because it's the best, Don't worry about that second mortgage.."
Thanks from South Africa, Keep up the great videos!!!
I've been yousing sola for 15 years and I liked what this bloke has learnt,and has helped me a bit more than a little bit,,,,thank you from brad the sale shade inventor,,,,, you did good fella
This is such a good video bro... exactly what I need learning to get get onto 4wd life. You break everything down in perfect detail and no bs. What a legend
my 2Ct for PV install:
I agree with your argumentation allover, this is an extremely good explanation for starters - IF money isnt´t 1rst argument - but quality. Best efficiency will be with MPPT and PV in 2x series. BUT:
You save > 100€ with PWM controller and loose ~20% efficiency. An additional 100Watt PV Panel is less than that! [btw, as you said: these measurements are taken @ 25°C, @ higher temps PV loose efficiency!]
Semi flex gives you more opportunities for installation, like on slight rounded areas, @ the side of the truck etc. PLUS these have rings to fix them easy and fast - e.g. to undo and put them into the sun.
I would strongly suggest a smaller LipoFe over a much bigger AGM. Better install a second LipoFe additionally later when budget is available. Saves lot of weight and space!!! 90% out of them vs. 50% + min. 3 longer life time.
Example: My setup will be the following on my Van (in mid Europe): 2x 100 watt semiflex on my roof, that will be unscrewable if needed, PWM + AGM @ first, later LipoFe. What I will loose in efficiency on controller will be covered by the second PV.
Note: I will have no fridge, winch to be running. Nothing in my kitchen. only luxery stuff like Smartphone, Tablet, Cam, lights inside, music, heater. I need lots of juice for starting my Diesel in the cold, Glow plug etc.
3 x 120w foldable panels from ebay (other $120 each), ripped the PWMs off, replaced the diodes for schottky's as the panels themselves were German qulity. Then mounted the epever tracer Mppt 30cm from the 300ah Giant battery + dual battery 150amp fused blah blah.. 7 months touring east coast of Aus with 2 x 40 litre fridge / freezer.. worked a treat.
I have a Kings folding panels which I had mounted flat on my roof rack, used only when parked up for a few days. It worked ok. I have since mounted a hard shell roof top tent, so I have now got a kings solar blanket which will be used when parked up on my next trip in a couple of weeks.
What did that cheeky bugger in the background do with your blanket haha?
Great video as always! Here's a couple questions for your next video:
- Permanently mounted dual battery system or a portable battery box, which is best?
- What should I look for in a battery box?
- Which companies (preferably Australian) sell the high-end A+solar panels?
- Are lithium batteries worth it?
- What are your best tips for minimising power consumption?
good run down on solar thanks Ronnie, we have a cheep folding panel which came with an "MPPT" controller, I chucked the controller and as you said have a DCDC controller near the batteries in our camper. this also provides a proper charge from the car when towing. its only a 120w panel but it runs the 70L fridge and our lights just fine.
thanks for keeping it simple for us new to trying to get our head around solar setup
One problem not mentioned is the vehicle mounting of fixed panels; I have more cracked and damaged panels as 4X4's are flexible and so are their bodies, when mounting a fixed panel I always use rubber exhaust bobbins as this gives more under panel cooling and the flexibility of the rubber gives enough movement to counter the flexing of the panel.
Great video. Thanks heaps. Perhaps could have given some idea about cable thickness.i really needed a basics video to get a starter handle on it. You gave me much more. Gratful!
Great video. General question. I have the hard fixed panel like in this video (with the mppt controller in the back). Can I plug that straight into my bc2bc charger without bypassing the build in controller on the panel? (I incidentally have the same redarc bc2bc charger too in this video). Should I just rip it off? Also, what are the repercussions of just leaving it and going from one regulator into the redarc one? The reason I ask is because I'd like to leave it there so I can use it for other uses that's all. Not a biggie if I have to rip it off though. Cheers.
Pretty good overview. I like how you pointed out the efficiency gains of the amorphous (most people simply say they are "less efficient" because they require more surface area per watt. Is a tractor less efficient that a micro car when plowing a field? Of course not). You didn't mention that the amorphous panel is also more efficient in hotter conditions, though all panels do lose efficiency as they heat up, as you mentioned. An amorphous panel will still continue to put out amps as the sun sets, well after the mono has shut down. If amorphous were only slightly more expensive, I couldn't understand choosing anything else, unless you were really tight on room. As it is, there is a huge price difference. Overall, very good overview.
Just re watched this Ronny and what great collection of info it is
Will be relevant for a long while yet
Love your work Ronny, keep them coming mate!
I have 120w blanket that seem to keep up with the 80L dual zone fridge when parked up for the day, with a 130 Ah AGM dual battery wired in, and I use AC charger every so often.
Best 4x4 channel on TH-cam
On a very cheap budget and got 45 watt hard panels for $35 usd on a trade site working on the mount and set up. (Why I watched today)
Hi Ronny,
Thank you so much mate. Beautifully explained.
Could you please do a video on following points while camping in Australia for beginners? This is beautiful country and would benefit beginners. Good man. Thanks again.
1. Do's and Don'ts
2. How safe is it camping in remote area in terms of wild animals, emergency , etc etc
3. How safe it is to camp in public area especially when you are accompanied with a Girlfriend, Wife or with a family with kids. Is there any treat from humans who would have drunk?
4. Tips to avoid camp sites yet safe to spend night.
Appreciated!
Holy cow those blankets are expensive!. Best solar video for camping I've seen yet!
I like house panels, might be a bit big for a 4x4 but on even a small caravan/ poptop it's probably the best way to go.
They're not only cheap (about $20 for 195w) but the higher voltage helps alot, mines a 7.something amp 40v panel and even in the shade and sometimes at night it will still charge because it still sends a high enough voltage to the mppt for it to work(highest ive seen at night was 2A in but its better than nothing). I did a week long trip with the van parked the whole time under a tree and by lunch time it was basically float charging.
Very professional and concise video. Absolute Champion! I came away more knowledgeable about the basics of solar panel and controller quality and differences effecting efficiency - all in a short ‘to-the-point’ video. You know your stuff and value the viewers time. Thankyou 🙏🏻 Keep up the great work. 👌
Ronny is a legend
Thank you very much ,great info,I'm old so I will have to watch more than once,keep up the good work.
Best video on here for the information I needed. Thanks
Great job simplifying something I find to be over complicated. Keep these vids coming!
I run the kings panels but as mentioned the regulators are not the best so just removed the kings one and purchased a stand alone red arc 20A regulator. And wired the panels through that.Works brilliantly.
HI RONNY / Watched a video today about 12 volt set ups great to see some one with a who makes videos that are easy to watch and easy to understand would like to help you with your quest . would like to talk more soon THANKS . Rocky.
Like all your videos, fantastic. Was just the basic overview I was looking for as I being to research this part of my overlanding build. Thanks!
I have a fixed panel on the roof but have a blanket I can run out when camped up as well. Just wired the plugs in parallel and feed into my 1225D BCDC. Works really well.
I like the grading system. Very fair. Well done. Thanks
thanks so much mate, i love your videos and passion that goes into them. im getting ready to set up a new dual cab and hit the cape and fraser. you have taken all the guess work out of my planning. thanks again, be safe... dave
Dude, best license plate.
the trick with solar panels is how many you can run in series..
2 of a vs 3-4 of b may benefit you quicker
Do a proper power draw test
If I was going to look at battery power running electrical I would consider going 4 or however big the tray space is
make sure all your batteries is of the same rating never use a high rating with a lower rating because 1 will flatten the other
Given the cost of AGM's you might want to consider lithium batteries as the power source given their longevity
My power usage is low so I have a 80watt portable panel and an Intervolt DCC Pro 25a charger. Intervolt is a great product and made in West Oz.
Good vid mate I have used a kings solid hinged panel run straight to my battery once parked up, been awesome so far over the last 4 years been N,E,S and W plenty of power (160W I believe) for general travel inc one fridge lights for night Etc 👍
Thanks Ronny...this helped me a lot...many thanks for taking the time
more on solar please. Like I'm still just fantasizing about overlanding, so three different lists or categories of functionality would be GOLDEN. EX: when starting out, If you have this many machines pulling this many amps, then go with "x". And so on. Or if you're going on a two day sight seeing road trip, you'll probably want "x", if you're gonna camp, you'll probably want this and that, so you'll need about "y". Et cetera. That's the kind of stuff I'm searching for. thanks! BTW Im from south Texas so semi-arid conditions for the most part...and I just got a Taco TDR off road.
Brilliant video; super helpful, thorough and easy to understand. Great content.. Would also like to hear about your truck, specs, model etc.
Excellent video. Can't wait to see the first EV Modified episode!
I agree with you about spending a bit more on the solar regulator, I spent just over $100 on a 200W polychristalline panel with the cheap blue regulators you see on ebay. Panel is great, but the regulator is crap, not enough settings on it, can overcharge the battery & the chinglish instructions are next to useless!
Great vid, looking forward to part 2. Watch out for cheap MPPT controllers, I've seen plenty on eBay which look exactly the same as the eBay $20 PWM ones. Do the research to make sure you're getting a good MPPT controller.
Thanks Ronny. We really got maximum information. God bless you.
From what i understand MPPT charge at high amps which isn't as good for the battery. Where as PWM charges slightly lower which is ideal for deep cycle. As long as you have the correct size panel for your requirement thats the key.
A good MPPT charger will let you set the charging amps to suit your battery capacity, and therfore optimum charge rate. For example, if your battery is 100AH then you generally want to charge it at around 10A. A victron smart solar MPPT charger will let you set this in the configuration.
Everything about MPPT is better.
Awesome video, this answered a lot of my questions. Thanks mate
Dingo at 18:40. Great vid RD. Thank you, as always for the beta on this stuff. Much appreciated.
I think he's actually a Rhodesian Ridgeback, but still, beautiful dog. There's a better view at 15:26
Really good Video Ronny.
Perfect for general consumption.
I've moved to 200Ah Lead Crystal and 200watts of Solar.
MPPT in DC- DC charger.
Additional blanket to increase system to 380watts if need be :-)
Also take a Noco 7.2Amp smart charger, comes in handy more than you'd think.
Just be careful with the Lead Crystal Batts. They need a charge rate of 30% of your storage, IE 200AH of battery, needs 60amp/hour charger connected to your dc-dc charger. The solar does not need to be that big as it is OK to charge them slower for awhile, however you do need to give the batts that big faster charge very couple of weeks ideally. If you are able to access 240 volt mains power and use a large mains charger, that is OK also of course. If you are able to get the charge into them regularly, they are a great choice as they are able to be drawn down much further than AGM's
Really helpful video and great advice for my solar power purchase.
Excellent video man! I havent seen another that explains so in detail all the aspects of portable solar stuff. Thank you very much!
Here's my car/tent camping setup:
I have a 100 watt flexible monocrystalline panel, 25 feet (7.6 meters) of 10 gauge twisted copper cable with Anderson quick disconnects to an MPPT charge controller, & a 35 amp hour AGM battery. It's perfect to charge my phone, run a portable TV, run a 12 volt fan for those hot nights & power some LED lights for the tent. There's even household current through a car power inverter if I need it. The battery, charge controller & inverter fit inside of a marine battery box for portability. The cost of the solar system is around $500 USD.
Hmmm sounds sort of expensive. Can you price the pieces of equipment you're using please?
Thx Ronny for putting it all into language I can understand! 👍
English? :p
We run the REDARC BMS30 paired with the 190w Solar Blanket and a 2000w Inverter. Primarily use it for charging our camera equipment when filming and editing the days action while chilling out at a lit up camp site. Would definitely not feel as safe plugging expensive gear into cheaper quality solar products. Definitely need to uprade the 120AH Lead Acid battery to a Lithium sometime soon though we always seem to set the low batt alerts off late at night when editing.
Thanks mate I’m looking into solar panels so your video helped a lot 👍👍👍
Great video Ronnie, keep it up! I recently bought an Intervolt DCDC (which is a Perth company) for my Prado and caravan aux, how about a review video? Very happy with it, and love supporting local
that was great Ronny, helps me to make my mind up about which one I should buy
We dont get too much sun here in Ireland, but Ive found that when it is very sunny my ARB fridge takes my leisure battery down below the low voltage cutoff and I wake up to my fridge around 4c instead of 1c. So Im looking for a solar panel for the roof, just enough to give a wee boost on the rare days that its hot and the fridge is using more power.
Great video Ronny. I just purchased a 50L frighted for my Jeep and I am looking at ways to keep the single battery charged up. The 2 door Jeep has space as a premium and since I have a hardtop, I am looking at the 100w solid panel attached to my roof to charge my system and keep the refrigerator performing at 100%. I usually overnight camp and then hit the trails when the sun comes up - not much into the base camp stuff.
Awesome video, help me out so much with understanding solar and what works best for me
I've heard from an electrical engineer that PWM-regulators are good for lead-acid batteries since it provides a good "pulse-charge" that makes you change your batteries less often.
For lithium however, MPPT is superior.
Thank you, Ronny. This video was exactly the level of info I needed. I appreciate the purchasing advice.
Excellent video Ronny. a great help especially concerning the controller.
I'd add that 1 Tier, 2nd Tier and 3rd Tier PV panels can also be explained in terms of output over time.
They will all start off the same, even outputting more than claimed in cool sunny conditions.
But after 5 years+ the 2nd and 3rd Tier panels show noticable reduction in output compared to a Tier 1 panel
For a quality dcdc charger that is wired ready to use have a look at the Kickass products. They supply the Projecta dc charger already wired , just plug and play.
Would love to see some affiliate links in here, this is the most informative solar panel video I've seen.
As usual, objective and well explained, thanks mate :)
i have solid mount on my canopy for 4wd gear and a blanket on my Van for better access to sun
Thank u that was magic. I have mono blanket 200 watts
Hi from The USA. Great info. Love your videos
Thanks for tha Advice! I am ordering a MPPT controller to replace my PWM unit right now.
More efficient to run the longer cable at higher voltage too, for less voltage drop. Not a huge difference if you use good cable but every AH counts and you can be sure that if your CC is putting out 14.4V to the battery over a short, fat cable then your battery is getting 14.4V. Doing that over a longer cable and your battery could be getting a lot less V.
4:20 it means the amorphous unit is better for locations farther from the equator, whether North or South of the equator. ( Australians are Aussie Centric lol)
THANKS RONNY! Great video, one of the best technical videos so far!
Thanks for the video, most informative one that I've watched yet. Cheers!
Thanks for all the good and simple advices.
Had an Engle fridge and measuring it’s consumption rendered it useless. The non energy efficient non inverter controlled units are power hungry, go to an inverter energy efficient CFX Waeco or similar and you’ll cut the consumption by a massive amount. I can run the CFX off a standard lead acid car battery with no solar panels for 3 days, same experiment with the Engel was two hours. I’d say concentrate more money on the powered devices rather than the bank that powers it.
Always top quality stuff Ronny
althrought i just wanna charge my 7ah battery for my cb rig this coverd every single point for me great vid budd 73 to u :)
We camp in shady spots in the high country. Portable panels are great but the shade from trees usually blocks them as well. I bought a cheap Aldi 700watt 4 stroke generator and a 20 amp eBay 4 stage battery charger as a backup. I run a 240 volt 65litre bar fridge in the pop top van from an inverter. I usually am OK with the 400 watts of solar on the roof running the system even in partial shade. I use the generator on cloudy days for an hour to tickle the 250 amps of batteries. The system works really well. Can you do a video on generators as well.
Philip Gracey Gensets are the devil's work.
I'm still annoyed you took your amorphous blanket back. After seeing how well it went on that trip, I went and got one!
Hi Harry, we all saw you get to Ronny's fridge, ha ha
Harry make some cooking vids! Would love to see em
Ronny, you missed a time stamp. At 15:37 Marley teleports.
Hahaha clever dog
I’ve got a fix one on the roof rack. But need to change the controller
Hey Ronny, where’s the follow up video about calculating solar. Battery setup etc. cheers!
Thanks Ronny very helpful video
How can I know which panel is A+, B, C?
Thanks for another great informative video. You've helped us out considerably on our two builds. Keep them coming!
Absolutely brilliant. If I run a dual battery system could I run a normal battery for the vehicle battery up front and a 200amp deep cycle battery at the back for my fridge?
An excellent explanation - thankyou. Now I know which type of solar blanket, controller to get.
Hey Ronny I love your videos,great videos,Hi from Miami Fl USA.excellent work👍👍👍👍