Diggin a trench for water and sewer lines for a shop me and my brother are building! Should be done by the end of the month so I can start my rebuild videos! Grateful for the info you share, I wouldn’t be as confident with my bikes as I am if it wasn’t for the priceless info you give us. Thank you cam!!!
As a breaker, you are one of a kind and a role model. If every business would adhere to your work ethics, giving all parts a proper clean and inspection as well as, when required, lubrication, we riders would be miles better off. I must also mention how much your videos have progressed over the past five years to where they now are highly entertaining as well as informative. Good job!
i did this work on my cr250r 1 month ago, great video. For the bearing removal of the u shaped part, i didnt had a special tool, just used a copper 1/2" pipe with front end spreaded expanded into the bearing cage for the first one, i used the socket method for the other, worked great!
I just wanted to say thank you. I recently bought a 1988 YZ250 and almost every bearing needs to be changed. Today, I popped out the upper and lower bearings out of the shock. I had never done this before, but watching you made me realize that I could do it, too! Thank you!!!
I did my first linkage rebuild with a Pivot Works kit recently with sockets and heat like you. It is amazing how much difference heat makes for sure. Great job brother!
I just took off my linkage to a kx125 i greesed it up pretty good. I knew how to do it because i saw your other video on how to greese bearings thanks. Great video.
Did'd read all comments but old mechanic's trick: when you pus the bearing into linkage, keep them in freezer for hour or two. Sometimes frozen bearings can be pushed to correct depth by hand. If you apply decent amount of heat to linkage and freeze bearings it should be really easy to put them in place. Nice Videos you have anyway, keep on going the good work.
Rode my first dirtbike a couple years ago at 30. Ktm 360, scared the respect into me very quickly. Had a few diff bikes since then, always bargains requiring work. Right now have a ktm 250, yz80, and ttr125, both yamahas need a lot of work so finding your videos has been great help. I work as a mechanic by trade so a lot of it comes to me quite quickly, but then things like pulling apart forks for a rebuild seems daunting til watching a vid of someone else. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
One way to make sure you press the bearings in to the correct depth is to wrap a piece of black tape at that distance from the end of the socket. When the black tape is flush with the cushion then the bearing has been correctly seated. Measure to make sure of course. One push: easy.
I'm not sure why I'm watching this, I did this on my bike a few months ago and they were rust seized in there, making it a hell of a lot harder, but there's still something satisfying about watching it.
After watching a bunch of your videos I realized how these MX bikes are not too different from the downhill mountainbikes I used to ride when I was 20 :) I did all the servicing myself, not a rocket science at all. Thanks for the great content!
Excellent video and great timing. I'm getting ready to take my linkage off and see what condition my bearings are in. Thank you so much as always for the attention to detail.
Just a hint on the installation of the bearings. If you freeze the bearings overnight. Upon installation, use a bit of heat on the main piece, then just use a little heat on the main part. the bearings should slide right in with little/no force at all.
Heres a tip. If you have problem of running trough kits like this all the time, but are just doing regular driving and not some crazy jumping, swap those needle bearing into ball bearing. Honda CRF 125 and 250 are using common bearing size what i heard from buddy who has those bikes and havent had any issues after doing that mod.
My old 2008 xr650L had spots/raised areas for grease fittings as it originally had zerks when it was first introduced in 93 but since have stopped drilling and tapping holes for them as it's cheaper. 15500 miles and the grease was still decent in them but I put three fittings where there was spots for them so I can just pump some grease in there every year or so.
If you get to that point where you think you need heat and can't turn the vise any tighter, give the back head of the vise a blow with a hammer, it will jar the bearing out a bit and you can continue pressing it out. It helps when you dont want to put heat to anything. You can also freeze the bearings, they'll go in really easy as well.
I also use a vice to press bearings in but just remember you can damage the vice threads if you apply too much pressure. It's better to get a small hydraulic bearing press.
Great idea ! I m stuck with the linkage bearings so i ll give it a try. Also my swingarm bolt is pretty stuck. I ve noticed that the swingarm started making some spacing with the engine after several hammers, which means that the bolt is stuck within the swingarm bearings/sleeves. I am patiently applying penetrating oil, leave it overnight and give some hammering the next day. It's the 3rd day and the bastard won't come out :(
Never put to much heat or you may make the part brittle and never put your linkage against the vice like that the hardened steel jaws will dig into the alloy!
My vice blew up! Man, this coulda been tragic for real. Thanks for The help man. You saved me again and exposed my weak A vice. Keep up the great content!
You should do like a garage/house/everything tour, I love how you have your house in your barn but would love to see just how everything looks inside and out
Jourdon Gulick you can use a copper pipe 1/2" to remove the first bearing of the u shaped part, no special tool needed, no need to heat too, came off in 20 seconds straight
Bearings are an interference fit. You should avoid putting grease in to aid installing them as you run the risk of the outer race spinning in the casting. The best way to help installation is to pop the bearings in a fridge or freezer for a few hours and pop the casting in the oven. They will virtually fall in.
Add grease zerks for easier maintenance. I'd also keep the lube as a spare, since it comes in a nice small package. Should be great addition to some trail tools for greasing axles ect.
Thanks again for making this video. The main thing I took away from it was you sharing the measurement on setting them in. Much love and I love your posts on CRs Only!
last time i replaced my linkage bearings I somehow broke the wall off so I had to use a carbide grid sawzall blade to cut them out. Wasn't fun in the slightest!
Nice job. It would make it a little easier if you put the small (push) socket facing the jaw of the vise that is pulling in and the big socket facing the outer jaw (you had it backwards). By doing it this way, you should have to use a lot less force.
If you think about it, there should be more tension where the jaw is pulling in; you're forcing the small socket to the big socket rather than the big socket to the small socket. Maybe I've got it all wrong, everyone just has their preference I suppose. Looks like Cam had no problem either way.
Sorry, I don't see that. The size of the socket is irrelevant as they are just spacers to push against the correct piece of the race or part. If you put a socket between the jaws and measured the pressure on each side it, they'd be the same.
how much better is the bike handling after a rebuild like this? my rear linkage is pretty bad too, just removed the shock which noticable moved up and down in the bearing/ linkage. made clunking noises under braking/ over bumps. i think i will just replace that one bearing, the rest are not loose but may well be falling apart, but i have bigger engine related issues and that rear linkage bearing kit is pricey. i wonder why they built it like this, seems a bit delicate and somewhat unessessary to have all those bearings in there. almost. crazy how all the needles from the bearing just fall out. mine was like that too, just gunged up with dirt grease and rust, certainly not doing any rolling like roller/ needle bearings should, lol.
KTM uses the loose needles and caged needles in it's rear end. Be careful when taking apart or you will lose the loose needles. I dunno why they don't use all caged ones. Greasing these each season and they will last for a long time. Don't grease them and you need to do what the video shows.
For blind bearings put a few spots of mig weld on the inside of the race. That will allow you to get a drift or a flat head screwdriver in there to wack them out
thanks Cam great help. saved my Tiger shock rebuild with open cage pins. Now doing swingarm without manual and found what look like shims. Do these need a special gizmo to pull out.. or can i just belt the lot through with swing arm supported with jack. Cheers.
Stupid question- does the “4” on the side of the vise indicate it’s a 4 inch vice? Checking as I need to do the bearings on my CR250 and need to know how big a vise to get. Thanks, love your videos
Hey Cameron I've seen a bunch of your dirt bike repair videos. Thanks for making them they're very helpful. Do you have any videos of you actually riding or racing?
What's up Cameron.!! Where can I get the specification for my linkage?? I'm just about ready to get mylinkage bearings put together for the week end. Thanks
Hi there, I have a little trick for all of you guys who want to preserve your suspension bearings, shims, bushings, etc., for as long as possible. Some time ago I came across a product called "Corrosion-X" (similar in consistency to WD-40), which is based on the fact that all metal is a little bit magnetic. It takes advantage of this by binding to it magnetically, almost on an atomic level - so it's very restistant to heat and pressure. I've started to use this product on a lot of spare parts, tools, etc. and I'm sure you'd be pleased with the results as well. c",)
Heat is definitely makes a difference, but you could have also sprayed some PB Blaster penetrating oil in there for a couple days while waiting on parts. That plus heat would have moved those like butter. I e only ever had to use heat to drive out wishbone races on my FE501.
Great video but those bearings weren't done for and just needed a good cleaning and regreasing. Would cost a lot less money and you would have the same outcome as getting brand new ones.
I measured the Pivot Bolt to Sleeve clearance and got 004-005 clearance. NO ONE sells or Talks About the Bolt to Sleeve clearance. You rebuild the link and put in new sleeves but the BOLTS Are Old. I spent $130, $20 bolt and $20 sleeve, tax, for OEM stuff. It's in the mail. 1998 kx125. And the nuts are $8 each but I'm using the old ones.
another idea put the bearings in the freezer for an hour or so and heat the linkage. grease up around the bearing and they literally go in with your hand.
6 ปีที่แล้ว
What size sockets did you use, larger and smaller? Oh OK I think I have that size,
That’s so weird. My 2000 cr250 linkage is the same except the lower bearing for the shock. If I put the dust caps inside the seals my shock clevis does not fit. And also the bigger part would then be resting against the race of the bearings. So by putting the smaller side inward against the middle round part it makes is like a 3 piece shaft going through the needle bearings.
Hey cam, how did you get the lower shock linkage in there as the manual says it goes in with the side collars then the seal…? I smashed both seals trying to get them in there.. please advise.
Hey Cam, question. We were rebuilding my friends 2004 Cr250 this weekend with the all balls kit. When we got to the linkage bearings we followed your directions centering the bearing so we could install the dust caps . You show the smaller part of the the dust cap facing out as does the factory diagram. No matter how hard we tried we couldn’t get the seal to stop popping /falling out . It’s not for a lack of skill or tools so kinda at a loss . We flipped the dust cap with larger side facing out and it works perfectly, like that’s the way it’s supposed to be. Any insight on this issue ? Hope your feeling well. Thanks
A little late to the show, but seeing exactly this same issue as I type this. Luckily the old seal didn’t fall off during removal and kept it for reference. It is oriented with the small side in. Hey Cam, wishing you the best during a rough time! You single handedly gave me the confidence that I could do a lot of the work to get my bike running properly! Really appreciate the detail and extra mile you go to provide so much clarity and selling the parts you use! Wish you the best!
Cameron if you ever come across a yamaha rt100 i will buy parts from you. Im keeping my sons 94 rt100 up since it was his first bike. I need exhaust and cylinder parts. Btw, it leaks clean oil from somewhere near the main sprocket or gear shift lever. Does thst sound like a bad crank seal or gasket? Im not interested in removing the engine to repair a internal gasket though
Great video I just did the same job tonight but didn’t you say you don’t need any special tools int a vice and a slide hammer not what a lot of people have laying around the garage ? Lol
Bro, need help...just finished shock linkage rebuild...however, i cannot get the single, the bearing we have to center, i cannot get the dust cover and steel cap to set in. It keeps popping out...what am i doing wrong?!
I have an issue with a CRF 100 rear suspension link, I'm trying to remove the bolts but there is one I can´t take out, it holds the "triangular" link to the swingarm, I noticed there are two welded washers that doesn´t allow the bolt to move out, could you give me an advice on how to remove that bolt? Thanks for your help in advance... Have a nice day!!!
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
What are you guys up to this weekend?
I am rippen my Honda 150rb and 250r at my track at my house!!!
Cameron Niemela we had some good rains last night....so we headed to the track and had a whale of a time.
Can I have a shout out I
Diggin a trench for water and sewer lines for a shop me and my brother are building! Should be done by the end of the month so I can start my rebuild videos! Grateful for the info you share, I wouldn’t be as confident with my bikes as I am if it wasn’t for the priceless info you give us. Thank you cam!!!
Freezing rain - so feeding the wood stove and relaxing 👍🏻
As a breaker, you are one of a kind and a role model. If every business would adhere to your work ethics, giving all parts a proper clean and inspection as well as, when required, lubrication, we riders would be miles better off. I must also mention how much your videos have progressed over the past five years to where they now are highly entertaining as well as informative. Good job!
i did this work on my cr250r 1 month ago, great video. For the bearing removal of the u shaped part, i didnt had a special tool, just used a copper 1/2" pipe with front end spreaded expanded into the bearing cage for the first one, i used the socket method for the other, worked great!
I just wanted to say thank you. I recently bought a 1988 YZ250 and almost every bearing needs to be changed. Today, I popped out the upper and lower bearings out of the shock. I had never done this before, but watching you made me realize that I could do it, too! Thank you!!!
I did my first linkage rebuild with a Pivot Works kit recently with sockets and heat like you. It is amazing how much difference heat makes for sure. Great job brother!
I just took off my linkage to a kx125 i greesed it up pretty good. I knew how to do it because i saw your other video on how to greese bearings thanks. Great video.
Did'd read all comments but old mechanic's trick: when you pus the bearing into linkage, keep them in freezer for hour or two. Sometimes frozen bearings can be pushed to correct depth by hand. If you apply decent amount of heat to linkage and freeze bearings it should be really easy to put them in place. Nice Videos you have anyway, keep on going the good work.
here in finland you can just leave the bearings outside for half an hour and that will do the trick
The idea that got those stuck bearing parts out is so clever! Whoever’s idea it was it really helped, thanks!
All the old school self taught, backyard mechanics on a Saturday night after a few beers who had to figure this out the hard way..
Rode my first dirtbike a couple years ago at 30. Ktm 360, scared the respect into me very quickly. Had a few diff bikes since then, always bargains requiring work. Right now have a ktm 250, yz80, and ttr125, both yamahas need a lot of work so finding your videos has been great help. I work as a mechanic by trade so a lot of it comes to me quite quickly, but then things like pulling apart forks for a rebuild seems daunting til watching a vid of someone else. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
One way to make sure you press the bearings in to the correct depth is to wrap a piece of black
tape at that distance from the end of the socket. When the black tape is flush with the cushion
then the bearing has been correctly seated. Measure to make sure of course. One push: easy.
I'm not sure why I'm watching this, I did this on my bike a few months ago and they were rust seized in there, making it a hell of a lot harder, but there's still something satisfying about watching it.
Howd you get them out? Mine are siezed and the blind bearing puller is breaking the outter edge of the bearing.
I dont know how you dont have more subs...
Great filming and everything. Always looking forward to your vids!
After watching a bunch of your videos I realized how these MX bikes are not too different from the downhill mountainbikes I used to ride when I was 20 :) I did all the servicing myself, not a rocket science at all. Thanks for the great content!
Excellent video and great timing. I'm getting ready to take my linkage off and see what condition my bearings are in. Thank you so much as always for the attention to detail.
Just a hint on the installation of the bearings. If you freeze the bearings overnight. Upon installation, use a bit of heat on the main piece, then just use a little heat on the main part. the bearings should slide right in with little/no force at all.
Rebuilt the CRF250R lower shock linkage...i appreciate the vids you put out for people.
Heres a tip. If you have problem of running trough kits like this all the time, but are just doing regular driving and not some crazy jumping, swap those needle bearing into ball bearing. Honda CRF 125 and 250 are using common bearing size what i heard from buddy who has those bikes and havent had any issues after doing that mod.
My old 2008 xr650L had spots/raised areas for grease fittings as it originally had zerks when it was first introduced in 93 but since have stopped drilling and tapping holes for them as it's cheaper. 15500 miles and the grease was still decent in them but I put three fittings where there was spots for them so I can just pump some grease in there every year or so.
If you get to that point where you think you need heat and can't turn the vise any tighter, give the back head of the vise a blow with a hammer, it will jar the bearing out a bit and you can continue pressing it out. It helps when you dont want to put heat to anything. You can also freeze the bearings, they'll go in really easy as well.
I also use a vice to press bearings in but just remember you can damage the vice threads if you apply too much pressure. It's better to get a small hydraulic bearing press.
Hi Cameron, I'd recommend putting some grease on the seal lips before inserting dust caps. Helps make seals last longer & can trap some dirt.
Great idea ! I m stuck with the linkage bearings so i ll give it a try. Also my swingarm bolt is pretty stuck. I ve noticed that the swingarm started making some spacing with the engine after several hammers, which means that the bolt is stuck within the swingarm bearings/sleeves. I am patiently applying penetrating oil, leave it overnight and give some hammering the next day. It's the 3rd day and the bastard won't come out :(
You should make videos everyday you are so helpful and make people happy. Love your content keep it yup
*up*
Covid19 shut down in New Zealand for 4weeks. So I will do this to my 1990 CR250.
Thanks for up loading.
All of your videos are full of information. Great content keep it up. 💯
Just a tip you can use a can of compressed air and turn it upside down and freeze the bearing and should drop right in.
Never put to much heat or you may make the part brittle and never put your linkage against the vice like that the hardened steel jaws will dig into the alloy!
My vice blew up! Man, this coulda been tragic for real. Thanks for
The help man. You saved me again and exposed my weak A vice. Keep up the great content!
You should do like a garage/house/everything tour, I love how you have your house in your barn but would love to see just how everything looks inside and out
Dope beats! I just did this yesterday on an '08 450 I'm fixing. Now just have to wait for a blind bearing puller to finish up..
Jourdon Gulick you can use a copper pipe 1/2" to remove the first bearing of the u shaped part, no special tool needed, no need to heat too, came off in 20 seconds straight
Bearings are an interference fit. You should avoid putting grease in to aid installing them as you run the risk of the outer race spinning in the casting. The best way to help installation is to pop the bearings in a fridge or freezer for a few hours and pop the casting in the oven. They will virtually fall in.
Add grease zerks for easier maintenance. I'd also keep the lube as a spare, since it comes in a nice small package. Should be great addition to some trail tools for greasing axles ect.
Thanks again for making this video.
The main thing I took away from it was you sharing the measurement on setting them in.
Much love and I love your posts on CRs Only!
Man thanks for the video. Always appreciate them. Just did this over the last 2 days. What a chore. Thanks brother God bless
You should mention to your viewers that adding heat is actually causing the bore to get bigger which is making it easier to get the bearing out.
When are going to get your vice bolted down makes the job easier.
Thanks for being there for me on Facebook 👍
After watching your video I'm going on a Supermoto ride to make a video for my channel.. So much to learn on your channel love it...
Thank you Cameron. This video really helped me with my 450 linkage. Look forward to seeing you back fighting fit mate.
I used this to rebuild mine from a DR350.....easy as hell! Thanks for the video!
last time i replaced my linkage bearings I somehow broke the wall off so I had to use a carbide grid sawzall blade to cut them out. Wasn't fun in the slightest!
Loved the vid! Your videos have a very professional look and quality👌🏼
Love the way those cleaned up.
Nice job. It would make it a little easier if you put the small (push) socket facing the jaw of the vise that is pulling in and the big socket facing the outer jaw (you had it backwards). By doing it this way, you should have to use a lot less force.
I've never heard of that, enlighten me because i see no reason it would make a difference.
If you think about it, there should be more tension where the jaw is pulling in; you're forcing the small socket to the big socket rather than the big socket to the small socket. Maybe I've got it all wrong, everyone just has their preference I suppose. Looks like Cam had no problem either way.
Sorry, I don't see that. The size of the socket is irrelevant as they are just spacers to push against the correct piece of the race or part. If you put a socket between the jaws and measured the pressure on each side it, they'd be the same.
Sounds logical, guess it doesn't matter either way then!
how much better is the bike handling after a rebuild like this? my rear linkage is pretty bad too, just removed the shock which noticable moved up and down in the bearing/ linkage. made clunking noises under braking/ over bumps. i think i will just replace that one bearing, the rest are not loose but may well be falling apart, but i have bigger engine related issues and that rear linkage bearing kit is pricey.
i wonder why they built it like this, seems a bit delicate and somewhat unessessary to have all those bearings in there. almost. crazy how all the needles from the bearing just fall out. mine was like that too, just gunged up with dirt grease and rust, certainly not doing any rolling like roller/ needle bearings should, lol.
Great Video. Just in time for my 2003 CRF230F installation.
Thanks Cameron!
KTM uses the loose needles and caged needles in it's rear end. Be careful when taking apart or you will lose the loose needles. I dunno why they don't use all caged ones. Greasing these each season and they will last for a long time. Don't grease them and you need to do what the video shows.
For blind bearings put a few spots of mig weld on the inside of the race. That will allow you to get a drift or a flat head screwdriver in there to wack them out
I was just going to ask that question, what if you have rusty blind bearings that fall to bits even just looking at them
Nice way to install those bearings I will try that when I have to replace those👍🏻
thanks Cam great help. saved my Tiger shock rebuild with open cage pins. Now doing swingarm without manual and found what look like shims. Do these need a special gizmo to pull out.. or can i just belt the lot through with swing arm supported with jack. Cheers.
Stupid question- does the “4” on the side of the vise indicate it’s a 4 inch vice? Checking as I need to do the bearings on my CR250 and need to know how big a vise to get. Thanks, love your videos
Picking up my new Yamaha yz 85 2016 model. Is what I am doing this weekend.
Hey Cameron I've seen a bunch of your dirt bike repair videos. Thanks for making them they're very helpful. Do you have any videos of you actually riding or racing?
What's up Cameron.!! Where can I get the specification for my linkage?? I'm just about ready to get mylinkage bearings put together for the week end. Thanks
Hi there, I have a little trick for all of you guys who want to preserve your suspension bearings, shims, bushings, etc., for as long as possible.
Some time ago I came across a product called "Corrosion-X" (similar in consistency to WD-40), which is based on the fact that all metal is a little bit magnetic. It takes advantage of this by binding to it magnetically, almost on an atomic level - so it's very restistant to heat and pressure.
I've started to use this product on a lot of spare parts, tools, etc. and I'm sure you'd be pleased with the results as well. c",)
I love all your videos , awesome quality and information , post more of your riding days on all your dirtbikes .Hello from Chile.
Heat is definitely makes a difference, but you could have also sprayed some PB Blaster penetrating oil in there for a couple days while waiting on parts. That plus heat would have moved those like butter. I e only ever had to use heat to drive out wishbone races on my FE501.
Great video but those bearings weren't done for and just needed a good cleaning and regreasing. Would cost a lot less money and you would have the same outcome as getting brand new ones.
Wouldnt torching it with the bearing in just expand everything then the air would cool the outside making it tighter?
This happened to me, right now I am missing 5 needle bearings out of the bearing on the bottom of my shock. I hope it holds up
no i have done is wit a steel plug. you titend it en it spreds, then you can press it out
I measured the Pivot Bolt to Sleeve clearance and got 004-005 clearance. NO ONE sells or Talks About the Bolt to Sleeve clearance. You rebuild the link and put in new sleeves but the BOLTS Are Old. I spent $130, $20 bolt and $20 sleeve, tax, for OEM stuff. It's in the mail. 1998 kx125. And the nuts are $8 each but I'm using the old ones.
I just did my linkage and was able to push both bearings out on that connecting arm.
another idea
put the bearings in the freezer for an hour or so and heat the linkage. grease up around the bearing and they literally go in with your hand.
What size sockets did you use, larger and smaller? Oh OK I think I have that size,
That’s so weird. My 2000 cr250 linkage is the same except the lower bearing for the shock. If I put the dust caps inside the seals my shock clevis does not fit. And also the bigger part would then be resting against the race of the bearings. So by putting the smaller side inward against the middle round part it makes is like a 3 piece shaft going through the needle bearings.
Hey cam, how did you get the lower shock linkage in there as the manual says it goes in with the side collars then the seal…? I smashed both seals trying to get them in there.. please advise.
Hey Cameron, are you gonna need that blind bearing puller on the RM250? Asking because I'd like to do mine soon... Thanks!
watching your videos
Hey Cam, question. We were rebuilding my friends 2004 Cr250 this weekend with the all balls kit. When we got to the linkage bearings we followed your directions centering the bearing so we could install the dust caps . You show the smaller part of the the dust cap facing out as does the factory diagram. No matter how hard we tried we couldn’t get the seal to stop popping /falling out . It’s not for a lack of skill or tools so kinda at a loss . We flipped the dust cap with larger side facing out and it works perfectly, like that’s the way it’s supposed to be. Any insight on this issue ? Hope your feeling well. Thanks
You'll definitely want the smaller part facing out, but the seals you received may be swollen or damaged. Try using OEM seals, they're great quality
A little late to the show, but seeing exactly this same issue as I type this. Luckily the old seal didn’t fall off during removal and kept it for reference. It is oriented with the small side in. Hey Cam, wishing you the best during a rough time! You single handedly gave me the confidence that I could do a lot of the work to get my bike running properly! Really appreciate the detail and extra mile you go to provide so much clarity and selling the parts you use! Wish you the best!
this demonstration is better than Rockymountain/Atv
Cameron if you ever come across a yamaha rt100 i will buy parts from you. Im keeping my sons 94 rt100 up since it was his first bike. I need exhaust and cylinder parts. Btw, it leaks clean oil from somewhere near the main sprocket or gear shift lever. Does thst sound like a bad crank seal or gasket? Im not interested in removing the engine to repair a internal gasket though
I'm going to be doing this very soon.
Cameron I just changed my linkage bearings on my cr250 1998 but still have a very small amount of play. Is this normal? Cheers mate, from the uk 👍
When will you start putting it back togheder?
Another method is using a pipe on the vise to add leverage if you dont have a torch handy
When will you put the dirt bike back together?
Spray some PB blaster penetrating oil on those old crusty bearings and let it sit overnight. Should make it easier to push out.
Blind puller works good. It's a lot less work to keep those bearings lubed up!
Great video I just did the same job tonight but didn’t you say you don’t need any special tools int a vice and a slide hammer not what a lot of people have laying around the garage ? Lol
Hey Bud ! I need your advice. I have a WR450F and the linkage pivot shaft / bolt is just stuck. Tried heat and penetrating oil.. no luck.
Really nice video👌 The linkage is looking fresh🔥
Why is it so hard to press my seals in for my lower shock linkage bearing?
The amount of grease you use is crazy, do you use grease instead of 2 stoke oil?
Too much grease will never hurt
Bro, need help...just finished shock linkage rebuild...however, i cannot get the single, the bearing we have to center, i cannot get the dust cover and steel cap to set in. It keeps popping out...what am i doing wrong?!
Great video I need to check mine.
And also mention that freezing the bearings will make then smaller and easier to install.
Hey Cam, how are you finding the specs for everything with your bikes?
Where did you get the recommended bearing installation depths? Does Honda include this in their manuals? - thanks!
Yes, I got it from the factory manual.
Good cameron
Where did you find the recommended depth?
I don’t think you need a blind puller, I’m pretty sure u can push the race out to the other end. That’s how I did mine.
Love your videos man, you have a real talent
Where do you get that tool brother 😅
Great explain guys !! Its very helpull me, thank you
put some aluminum softies on that vice, so you dont leave marks on the parts
I have an issue with a CRF 100 rear suspension link, I'm trying to remove the bolts but there is one I can´t take out, it holds the "triangular" link to the swingarm, I noticed there are two welded washers that doesn´t allow the bolt to move out, could you give me an advice on how to remove that bolt? Thanks for your help in advance... Have a nice day!!!
guess he gave you the bug FU. what a dick
What is the name of the measuring tool? Thank you,
You should mount your vice to the table, it would be alot easier to use
I have a 2008 crf250r and it doesnt want to start with choke on but choke still works. Please help