I always admired people who can bend and even break style rules. For example Hugos huge lapels might look a bit off but it is a sign of his light hearted persoality and free artistic spirit. Life is too short to wear boring clothing. Thats why I appreciate the new mens style movement. Hip hip hooray for the Sartorial revolution! Cheers! And congratulations for your granddaughter.
Thank you so much, Sonya, for pointing out the importance of proportions. We certainly need a feminine advocate for such a delicate and important matter!
I have this loud ass talking woman, I introduced her to you and your speaking voice. It has saved her from dismissal out of my life, so far. She's working on it. Thanks
It's amazing how much more there is to this world of ours than meets the eye. Specifically with sartorial matters, before you're a "part of the club", so to speak, a suit is a suit. Then you get into the hobby and realize how much design and artistic expression there is in something so simple. Thanks for the video, Sonya. Cheers, guys.
A reflective and pertinent response. There are so many complexities, simplicities, and unspoken codes in the sartorial universe---it has been truly a surprise for me. You said it well. Cheers! ~Sonya
I am a huge fan of the old Hollywood look. My favorite suits are vintage double-breasted examples from the '40s with super high waisted trousers and wide legs. We're talking 15" rise and 10" across at the cuffs with 5" wide lapels on the jacket. It helps that I am 6'4" and just under 200 lbs with a fairly good sized chest, so I carry it off better than most others might. And when the trousers fall from the hip, they just drape so much nicer. Now, I have long legs already, but with the double breasted jacket coming all the way across it doesn't have quite the lengthening effect that it would with a single breasted jacket, but you still get that wonderful drape. However, if my single breasted jacket is cut so that the quarters close all the way when buttoned, this also works well for me as a tall guy wearing high waisted trousers. On the other hand, if you are on the shorter side and wanting the old Hollywood look, I would say that a single breasted jacket with open quarters and the high waisted trousers will look better. Playing with shoulder width in this aesthetic is also interesting since one of its hallmarks is exaggerated shoulder width. I like mine with a little extra padding and extended out just a bit more in this look than say on a modern suit because I have a pretty rectangular body type. But if you already have wide shoulders and a more V body type, I think you would want to keep the shoulders in tighter like on a modern suit so that you don't over-accentuate them. And if you have sloping shoulders, the old Hollwood look can really help build them up.
Such great information here! So many people don't understand proportions and it's so hard in RTW with no guidance. I learned as I went and had jackets with super modern high buttoning stance, Uber slim and short jackets, and of course high gorges. I've now brought the jacket buttoning point down considerably (I'm 6'3) and the gorge down to classic range, wider lapels, longer jacket length, and more room throughout without appearing frumpy!
This was a fascinating and informative talk, thank you. I feel like I not only understand proportions better but can apply them to my wardrobe, rather than trying to rely on "style rules" which may or may not suit my individual body and style.
i agree with your comment about the pencil legs, sonya. last year, i had two MTM suits made by a company. a few months later, i commissioned my first ever bespoke suit by a real tailor, and there the leg openings of the pants were cut wider, giving me a really beautiful, balanced look for my otherwise slim torso. as i then looked back at pictures i took of my MTM suit right after it was done, i realized how slim the pants had been cut, making me not only look too slim, but also making the suit jacket look out of proportion with the pants, thereby creating what i believed to be an unbalanced and unflattering silhouette. sadly, it was already past the guaranteed refund period when i realized this.
Great talk! I think this is one of the more difficult points to master, as it will be very dependent on your body and it's hard to play around with proportions with RTW clothes. Thank you for going over all the different effects proportions can have, hope to see the next video soon!
Great video as always. As someone who is a slim guy with very thick legs (especially calves), I cannot get anything off the rack. Also my legs are short in proportion to my body, so I always look for high rise trousers and when getting jackets made, I make sure they are a bit shorter so that my legs will look taller to make it look harmonious. This is something that my grandfather (who was a tailor) told me I should keep in mind, and to always seek harmony with everything, not just outfits, but everything I do. Probably the most important lesson I received from him. The point about the placement of the chest pocket in a jacket is a great one and it has never crossed my mind before.
Understood and thank you for the feedback! We do labor over using mainly photos we own and avoiding infringement issues (using the art of others)---maybe to a fault. Thanks for watching and we will try to push further. Cheers, ~Sonya Glyn
As a shorter man, I would love for you to delve in a bit further on this topic! I don’t necessarily want to appear taller, but I rather not look shorter, which is always the case with rtw before the tailor tax. I believe you have covered this somewhat in other videos - but one video dedicated for us shorter men of different builds would be much appreciated! Thank you for the great content!
Thank you very much. I don't see many men wearing suits in this area normaly and the ones I do, don't wear cuffs (Younger guys) so I will have cuffs on all my trousers that have the material to do that, and all new trousers will be cuffed. Old guys get it!
Hey Leroy, I happen to adore the charm of trouser cuffs and one of the first articles I wrote on Parisian Gentleman was entitled "A Second Look at Trouser Turn Ups (Cuffs)" Cheers! ~Sonya
I feel like the main difficulty I face is not understanding when and how each element interact with each other, even though I agree with every phenomenon described. E.g. Why does a wide collar enhance the flaws of a wide face, but wide lapels throw off the balance on a small chest? One might argue it's because the collar is "next to" the face and the lapels are right on the chest, but then extended shoulders are flattering on narrow shoulders. There must be some hidden rules that haven't been shared with us mortals.
With regards to lapel width, I will mention a small caveat, as a professional fitter for men's suits. I am not a broad-chested man (36 3/4"), but I have started to fall in love with the 1970s hugely wide lapels since I picked up someone's bespoke made suit from around 1975-77 (I was extremely lucky that this man was built pretty much exactly like I am). The reason I think this lapel, which is only 3/4" from the shoulder seam works is that the pants are very flared towards the bottom at I think 9" laid flat. The flare of the pants is dramatic and balances with the dramatic lapel, coupled with the fact that the original owner was slightly shorter than I, thus the flare increasing with the increased length of the pant. Slender men can have a very wide lapel, but it must be proportional to the pant width, and I think the 1970s nailed it with the flare concept. The pants themselves are actually quite wide throughout, but using heavier fabrics with a beautiful drape gives an illusion of slenderness at the thigh. I guess my point is that with anything in suiting, one must look at or envision the entire suit first, not just take one element isolated. Balancing proportions is a delicate art, so when I encourage our slender clients to adopt the wider lapel, I will mention that it gives a great deal more "presence" at the chest, but must be balanced with a wider trouser and nipped waist. Overall, it makes a man look more robust, simply more present (!) without the boxy look of the 1980s-90s. See, the curvature of the waistline softens the whole effect and still presents the client as a slender man, but now more robust and confident with the lapel being so wide. The last caveat is that having said all this, it can be a disappointment to the client when at the the end of the day he has to remove his suit and he has to see the truth to himself. I have to do it everyday. HAHA
Another great video ,with as usual great look)), thank you dear for your effort and always glad to watch you , cheers to you and Hugo, love from Cairo.
Love the video as always! Can you give a video on how toe shape of shoes (round, almond, square, chisel...) affects formality and when / where they were began? And anything else to say about them! And cheers to the new addition to your family!
Sonja I myself reside in the show me state and grew up in Germany from a Noble Family Heritage bloodline linked to the UK and i always wear a leather Belt except for Morning Wear Attire and Black Tie and White Tie event
Loved the video! However, growing up I was told to match my belt to my shoes. For instance, if I was wearing a navy suit with brown shoes, I'd ditch the option of a black or navy belt and go with a brown belt to match my brown shoes. What do you think of this?
Thank you for being so inspriring😎. Among other things I love the cello piece, your musical signature. Could You please give me information about the composer etc.?
What other gentlemen withered away in their seats when they saw the very lovely Sonya in 👓, with all the respect in the world to the great Hugo Jacomet of course
Wonderful Sonya. Can we perhaps have a demo of sorts where in we have different collars and different lapels and see how it looks for a person? It will be exciting!
Thanks as always for your amicable responses they have really helped me put things in perspective. Today I aspire to have a yellow dress shirt, pink pocket square, Dark brown suit & dark grey trousers with dark brown shoes. whats your view?
Currently in the process on overhauling my trousers wardrobe. I currently have the lower rise tapered trousers from Uniqlo. However, I have a midsection and broader shoulders and my current trousers make me look like I have carrot legs. Currently looking for mid-rise trousers with straighter cuts and... hopefully with pleats and cuffs. 🙂
Hi Ced, I would be interested in learning how a wider leg works for you with a slightly higher waist rise ( if you have a longer upper torso, you can raiser the trousers more---but you don't want the waist to close to your pecs, obviously. Definitely play around with the proportions and see what happens---you should not have to tolerate the carrot leg look :):) Cheers! ~Sonya Glyn
pls talk about full canvass and fused suit. ive heard from another youtuber that he got a fused half canvass suit from indochino which is very confusing
I so love and enjoy your videos. You touched on a lot and I learn so much. Great incites!! Share your thoughts on colour affecting proportions or balance or the perception of... for example, "they" say black clothing makes one look slimmer
No doubt, colours can affect proportions. In the production of "14 Ways to Look Taller", we address how using different colors can break up the silhouette (e.g., the odd waistcoat), which can be a good or not-so-good thing, depending on the effect you want. Great point, ~Sonya Glyn
I recently began wearing suits more than just for special occasions.I am 74 years old and I like the old look with cuffs or turn ups. Is it still ok to wear cuffs on your trousers?
Very interested to hear your thoughts on belts and suits. Most people will say that the belt and shoes need to match. Now, correct me if I am wrong but, do I understand you right when you say the colour of the belt needs to be as close to the colour of the suit as possible?
Hi, Sonya and Hugo! I recently discovered your channel and am a fan! Do you know of any good bespoke tailors in Tokyo? (Sorry, I realize this doesn't relate to the topic of this video.)
Loved this segment Sonia! Works for women too! Looking at the Hollywood trouser style for women in the 1940s, like what Audrey Hepburn or Carole Lombard wore ( love this trouser style).. would you wear a tighter jacket with a wide leg trouser or a more flowy, looser one? And would you wear the jacket length shorter or longer? Where would the cut off be? Thank you 😊
Hello, I adore wide trouser legs when I am at a decent body weight ! I can go with shorter or longer jackets---it is really about how the overall silhouette is look and which shoes I'm wearing. It the jacket is longer, the suede pumps come out of the closet. Cheers ! ~Sonya
Great video; great job, production, and delivery. So I had a few questions.. - Do pleated pants fit/serve athletic legs with more room to walk and climb stairs in? I found slim, and even straight leg pants can still catch and bind a bit at times with even slightly muscled legs (from moderate legwork, lots of walking, and stairs. I am thinking of trying at least single-pleated pants. (plus they're warmer in winter). - With suit lapels, I find my suit lapels (for lack of a better term) "peak" and break because of (I think) either the size of my upper torso, and/or my drop being up to 12" (47"chest minus 35"waist), when the average [U.S.} men's suit drop I've read is only 6". Are there suits, suit cuts (available off-the-rack or MTM) or even a good trick! that eliminates the lapels' peaking/breaking? So far I find that only 3-button suits avoid this, but they're very hard to find new. Suit chest break pic: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0166/9250/files/Screen_Shot_2015-11-30_at_4.03.35_PM_large.png?6282974739786408547 - Is it accurate about button-stance what I've read that the jacket should remain unbuttoned* all the way up to the first button above the navel? *EDIT: I meant, remain unbuttoned below the navel The reason given was that so when one leans, bends, squats,etc. or walks briskly, the jacket will move with the body better, and without bunching up (which can also get in one's way). Also, I've noticed the resulting V-shape silhouette can flatter a guy's figure because the V parallels the V-shaped back muscles (latissimi) which also taper in at about the same point as the navel, thereby enhancing the V. I find both the above points to work with me; am wondering if this the same for others in general. - About general overall fit, can a suit be overly sexuallized? No, really. I see in person - but mostly on Instagram, of course - more guys wearing shrink-wrapped, vacuum-packed, sausage-skins' *erm* "suits" that seem to be made by... Lululemon For Men(?). I sure do hope they are, at the least,"squat-proof", for all our sakes. ;) - I like how you said at the very end, "if you can really be COHERENT by breaking proportionate rules...": "IF" (to quote the Spartans). Seems this is a problem with many people who want to break the rules 'just because'(IMO usu.incoherently from what I see) and hope to still makes the desired statement. I may have drifted a bit; myBad. ;) Again, a really beautiful video; I love learning all this info. P.S. Seems you were going for a subtle 'bleu blanc rouge'-look there.
Hello. First of all, pleated trousers are stylish, and are not relics of the 1980s. We own countless pairs of trousers and pleated and non-pleated trousers, when well-crafted, are fantastic. With an athletic build, tight trousers can look bizarre, like you are in a super hero outfit. I Secondly, if the lapels are breaking, please look at the sleeve pitch and shoulder slope video. If you have sloping shoulders and your jacket is crafted for someone with shoulders perpendicular to the body ('A' slope, you could get a lapel break). If you posture is erect, and your jacket is crafted for a slouchy posture, you could also get a lapel break---there are several factors to consider. Buttoning the waist button is an unspoken code, but really I'm not sure why. Buttoning more buttons can be a style statement, so only do it if you feel confident doing so. Aha, shrink wrap suits are hilarious---I don't think men do it on purpose...probably in most cases they just gained some weight (I am not immune from wearing suits that are too tight which mortify me in photos, haha). True what you say, one should break the rules after quite a few years of suiting; it's like adding lavender to vanilla ice cream (first you must understand the art of making vanilla ice cream). Seems you have a grip on a lot of these discussion points. Thank you for being such a great listener. This day I wore what I could find in my suitcase, but now we are filming more from home, so creativity is more of an option. Cheers to you ! ~Sonya Glyn
Great video! Very informative. Just one question - how do you choose a belt that's similar to your suit if you're wearing navy/grey and a medium brown pair of shoes? I know going darker is an option but wat about without changing other factors
I think you are saying your trousers are grey? A slightly darker rich grey toned belt could be blend with the trousers and make the belt look as if it is "painted out", if you will. Cheers, ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS yes that's right. Your suggestion makes sense. But we also gotta ensure that the belt is close in colour to our shoes. That's where I think it gets a bit more complicated.
I have come across these claims before. To me they just don't add up: (1) Your shirt collar should counteract the proportions of your face: if you have a narrow face, don't wear a point collar, as it will make your face look even narrower! (2) Your lapels should conform to the proportions of your chest: if you have a narrow chest, don't wear wide lapels, as they will make your chest look even narrower! See the conflict?
Great video. One thing if I may. Pardon me, but wouldn't it be that if you have a large head you'd widen and lengthen the collar to cancel the look of the large head as much as possible? Then, for the smaller head you narrow the collar? In my suit designs these are a few of the rules I use. However, great video. I might even use this as a training video for my people it's so good. Thank you!
Hi PC, Curiously there is a lot of debate on the collar shape versus face shape issue. I subscribe to the yin and yang theory ---off setting wide with narrow and narrow with wide. Yet I do believe perceptions play a part in it all. Check out some examples on Parisian Gentleman article I wrote entitled "Choosing the Right Shirt Collar" parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/choosing-the-right-shirt-collar/ ... and see what you think. Cheers, ~Sonya Glyn
@@SARTORIALTALKS I see what we did there. I re-watched your video and then read again the section in 'Dressing The Man' and we are actually saying the same thing, just in different ways. I meant that; If you have a large head or round face, a bigger collar is more suitable to balance out your appearance. Wearing a tiny collar in such cases will only make your face look disproportionately larger. So, I mistook your collar spread and length for you meaning a tiny collar, but that's not what you meant. As it turns out, we are both saying the same thing. My apologies.
@@SARTORIALTALKS Before I forget again, I have an interesting and fun idea for a potential video or PG post. Since you and Hugo have had the opportunity to meet so many great artisans, I'm curious to hear your insights into some of their personalities. I thought a high school yearbook style discussion would be fun and informative ex. "Most likely to become a comedian", "Most likely to star in their own reality show", "most opinionated" etc. As I'm sure we can agree, the product is only a tiny fraction of what makes this "hobby" so enjoyable.
I tried to look for you on facebook? I`m hoping you and your family are doing well during this pandemic, I seeing that it really bad there in France. Good Luck Scott
Makes all the difference, I have been late to game in terms of requesting a lowered button stance. So many makers go too high with the stance. Best, ~Sonya
Thank you for your informative video Sonia. Could I just ask, for a 5"6-5"-7 man how low would you recommend a suit jacket/blazer to hang? Lately I've been trying to find a good fitting jacket but with no luck, as many of the jackets are either have long sleeves, or are low hanging, thus making me look shorter. Please could you advise me on this? Thank you in advance
Hi, I would study photos of Daniel Radcliffe in well-fitted suits (even navy blue double breasted) and find inspiration there. Also look at the video "How to Appear Taller" and the Parisian Gentleman article on the same subject. Cheers and enjoy the process ! ~Sonya
Couldn't you also argue that if you have a wide face and wear a slim shirt collar, that it makes your face even wider because it is contrasted to something so small and dainty?
Good thing to note---with Hugo's wide head, when he wears a narrow collar, the collar points are quite long and not stubby, and the "look" is spectacular. Cheers and thanks for commenting. ~Sonya
Thanks for the sound advice. I dislike the current trend for suits that appear two sizes too small; perhaps it’s a carryover from the hipster skinny jeans look. Just my opinion.
It's also post-Crash economics: less material = less cost to produce, PLUS they raise the prices on top of that. Also, the current cohort of younger [U.S.] men (aka Millenials, but not only) can be smaller** than previous generations (despite overall increasing obesity in the population), so I think the clothes would have to... fit them? The regular suit cuts on them would look like... "weeping willows" [from the video]. **medical grip-tests show Millenial mens' upper-body strength to have dropped to the level of Millenial women, so, less-than-average musculature on the guys; smaller clothes lines required? .
Fantastic points, Sam, and always enjoy your perspective. Thanks for taking the time to reflect and respond like you do. I laughed at your last point, because lately I have seen so many hyper fit teenagers as well as those in their 20s. Cheers, ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hopefully your "hyperfit teenagers" mean the French youth are healthier than we are here. (and wish us luck during this upcoming pandemic💪).
Thanks Sonya, what would be your recommendation for the length of trouser turn-ups , I am aware that it can have an effect of shortening the legs, I have the same height as Hugo (179cm). Thank you
At your height, you should enjoy the vibe of trouser turn-ups from time to time---this style can be endearing and charming, especially when paired with brogued-shoes. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you Sonya, what would be the ideal turn-up height, 4cm or 5 cm, if I am aiming for the right proportion, and not trying to break them
I love your voice, but as someone new to this it would be great to have some visuals to go with your examples. A picture in the corner would be perfect.
Sonya, I am a college student studying to be a pastor and have very little money. What do you and Hugo recommend for those of us interested in elevating our style but have little to no money? I'd like to invest in quality but don't and probably won't have the money but I still want to try. Thanks!
Blessings and congratulations Noah. There is a production here that Hugo did on you first suit, as well as another one on starter suits here th-cam.com/video/Y1Ayqo0Dy4M/w-d-xo.html . I hope this helps and feel free to drop a line on my IG account @sonyaglyn if I can advise further. Bonne continuation ! ~Sonya
Please add english subtitles and picture to explain. Opinion from a non native english speaker. I would like to learn more about suit, but my english is not enough to catch up the speech 😭
I hear you sir, it's just a rule of thumb which works very well for many of us, but if you like spread collars, then of course enjoy yourself! Cheers and have a wonderful Sunday, Hugo
Hello. Glad you agree, and I think more and more of us are getting on board with understanding how button stance can make a difference in the overall look of an ensemble. Cheers to you! ~Sonya Glyn
@@SARTORIALTALKS AMEN! Especially lately, where button stance, jacket gorge, skirt break and trouser rise all seem to be incredibly disproportionate, especially in off the rack clothes. "Modern" suits look (to me, anyway) like a father is trying to wear his son's clothes.
Unfortunately there are snobby purists who insist that anything outside of the very traditional fits (like those mentioned at the end of the video) should be burnt in a fire
What's with this look I've seen for the last 5 years or so where it looks like the wearer grew up since the suit was purchased? Makes the wearer look like a little boy, slender legs, shorter coat etc. Why a man would think this is appropriate is borderline disturbing, but commenting on that is for different youtube channel!
This lady could read the phone book and I would listen! Another great video with some great advice.
Super kind===not so sure if my "phone book reading" would go over so well, though, ha ! Cheers ! ~Sonya
I always admired people who can bend and even break style rules. For example Hugos huge lapels might look a bit off but it is a sign of his light hearted persoality and free artistic spirit.
Life is too short to wear boring clothing. Thats why I appreciate the new mens style movement. Hip hip hooray for the Sartorial revolution! Cheers! And congratulations for your granddaughter.
Once again, many thanks KK for weighing in---glad to have you here. Cheers and thank you! ~Sonya Glyn
Thank you so much, Sonya, for pointing out the importance of proportions. We certainly need a feminine advocate for such a delicate and important matter!
Hello, Thank you for watching and for your support + encouraging words. ~Sonya
I have this loud ass talking woman, I introduced her to you and your speaking voice. It has saved her from dismissal out of my life, so far. She's working on it. Thanks
It's amazing how much more there is to this world of ours than meets the eye. Specifically with sartorial matters, before you're a "part of the club", so to speak, a suit is a suit. Then you get into the hobby and realize how much design and artistic expression there is in something so simple. Thanks for the video, Sonya. Cheers, guys.
A reflective and pertinent response. There are so many complexities, simplicities, and unspoken codes in the sartorial universe---it has been truly a surprise for me. You said it well. Cheers! ~Sonya
Can one be addicted to someone's voice? I think I am 😍
I am too, believe me ! Hugo
i can listen to her all day
I've always been an advocate of suit proportions....and this video sums it all very well..you guys are doing a great job....
I am a huge fan of the old Hollywood look. My favorite suits are vintage double-breasted examples from the '40s with super high waisted trousers and wide legs. We're talking 15" rise and 10" across at the cuffs with 5" wide lapels on the jacket. It helps that I am 6'4" and just under 200 lbs with a fairly good sized chest, so I carry it off better than most others might. And when the trousers fall from the hip, they just drape so much nicer. Now, I have long legs already, but with the double breasted jacket coming all the way across it doesn't have quite the lengthening effect that it would with a single breasted jacket, but you still get that wonderful drape. However, if my single breasted jacket is cut so that the quarters close all the way when buttoned, this also works well for me as a tall guy wearing high waisted trousers. On the other hand, if you are on the shorter side and wanting the old Hollywood look, I would say that a single breasted jacket with open quarters and the high waisted trousers will look better. Playing with shoulder width in this aesthetic is also interesting since one of its hallmarks is exaggerated shoulder width. I like mine with a little extra padding and extended out just a bit more in this look than say on a modern suit because I have a pretty rectangular body type. But if you already have wide shoulders and a more V body type, I think you would want to keep the shoulders in tighter like on a modern suit so that you don't over-accentuate them. And if you have sloping shoulders, the old Hollwood look can really help build them up.
Nicholas Arden Congratulations on your first subscriber :)
This is a great idea, having suit proportions explained by this charming lady. Love it.
Thank you so much! ~Sonya
Such great information here! So many people don't understand proportions and it's so hard in RTW with no guidance. I learned as I went and had jackets with super modern high buttoning stance, Uber slim and short jackets, and of course high gorges. I've now brought the jacket buttoning point down considerably (I'm 6'3) and the gorge down to classic range, wider lapels, longer jacket length, and more room throughout without appearing frumpy!
This was a fascinating and informative talk, thank you. I feel like I not only understand proportions better but can apply them to my wardrobe, rather than trying to rely on "style rules" which may or may not suit my individual body and style.
i agree with your comment about the pencil legs, sonya. last year, i had two MTM suits made by a company. a few months later, i commissioned my first ever bespoke suit by a real tailor, and there the leg openings of the pants were cut wider, giving me a really beautiful, balanced look for my otherwise slim torso. as i then looked back at pictures i took of my MTM suit right after it was done, i realized how slim the pants had been cut, making me not only look too slim, but also making the suit jacket look out of proportion with the pants, thereby creating what i believed to be an unbalanced and unflattering silhouette. sadly, it was already past the guaranteed refund period when i realized this.
I bet she is great at reading bedtime stories. So pleasing and soothing to listen to her.
My wife is a fantastic lady indeed. Hugo
Great talk! I think this is one of the more difficult points to master, as it will be very dependent on your body and it's hard to play around with proportions with RTW clothes. Thank you for going over all the different effects proportions can have, hope to see the next video soon!
Thank you, Sonya for presenting this informative video ... as always, when listening to both yourself and Hugo, I learn "new" things. 🥰
Thank you once again Sonya and Hugo for sharing with us your amazing wealth of knowledge, kind regards Ryan.
Thank you Ryan for your kind words as usual. We hope all is well on your side. Hugo & Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS 👍🏻❤️🙏🏼
I recognize lessons from the book « Dressing the man », well done !
Sonya's voice can calm down anyone. I feel so comfy...
Great video as always.
As someone who is a slim guy with very thick legs (especially calves), I cannot get anything off the rack. Also my legs are short in proportion to my body, so I always look for high rise trousers and when getting jackets made, I make sure they are a bit shorter so that my legs will look taller to make it look harmonious. This is something that my grandfather (who was a tailor) told me I should keep in mind, and to always seek harmony with everything, not just outfits, but everything I do. Probably the most important lesson I received from him.
The point about the placement of the chest pocket in a jacket is a great one and it has never crossed my mind before.
Many thanks Tokiomi ! Your grand father was a wise man (and most likely an experienced tailor). Sonya
Great video! I wish there were more picture examples of the concepts discussed in this video though.
Understood and thank you for the feedback! We do labor over using mainly photos we own and avoiding infringement issues (using the art of others)---maybe to a fault. Thanks for watching and we will try to push further. Cheers, ~Sonya Glyn
If you get a subscription to a stock site like Shutterstock you get licence to any of millions of photographs.
Thanks Sonya man for the detailed description and explanation par excellence 👌
As a shorter man, I would love for you to delve in a bit further on this topic! I don’t necessarily want to appear taller, but I rather not look shorter, which is always the case with rtw before the tailor tax. I believe you have covered this somewhat in other videos - but one video dedicated for us shorter men of different builds would be much appreciated! Thank you for the great content!
Alright, I'm going to keep your comment in mind and see if a few revelations emerge. Thank you so much for watching and cheers! ~Sonya
You may find this useful also, th-cam.com/video/p6xjKjJ7YV0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much. I don't see many men wearing suits in this area normaly and the ones I do, don't wear cuffs (Younger guys) so I will have cuffs on all my trousers that have the material to do that, and all new trousers will be cuffed. Old guys get it!
Hey Leroy, I happen to adore the charm of trouser cuffs and one of the first articles I wrote on Parisian Gentleman was entitled "A Second Look at Trouser Turn Ups (Cuffs)"
Cheers! ~Sonya
That was a wonderful video presentation. Thank you so much. 😊
I feel like the main difficulty I face is not understanding when and how each element interact with each other, even though I agree with every phenomenon described. E.g. Why does a wide collar enhance the flaws of a wide face, but wide lapels throw off the balance on a small chest? One might argue it's because the collar is "next to" the face and the lapels are right on the chest, but then extended shoulders are flattering on narrow shoulders.
There must be some hidden rules that haven't been shared with us mortals.
With regards to lapel width, I will mention a small caveat, as a professional fitter for men's suits. I am not a broad-chested man (36 3/4"), but I have started to fall in love with the 1970s hugely wide lapels since I picked up someone's bespoke made suit from around 1975-77 (I was extremely lucky that this man was built pretty much exactly like I am). The reason I think this lapel, which is only 3/4" from the shoulder seam works is that the pants are very flared towards the bottom at I think 9" laid flat. The flare of the pants is dramatic and balances with the dramatic lapel, coupled with the fact that the original owner was slightly shorter than I, thus the flare increasing with the increased length of the pant.
Slender men can have a very wide lapel, but it must be proportional to the pant width, and I think the 1970s nailed it with the flare concept. The pants themselves are actually quite wide throughout, but using heavier fabrics with a beautiful drape gives an illusion of slenderness at the thigh. I guess my point is that with anything in suiting, one must look at or envision the entire suit first, not just take one element isolated. Balancing proportions is a delicate art, so when I encourage our slender clients to adopt the wider lapel, I will mention that it gives a great deal more "presence" at the chest, but must be balanced with a wider trouser and nipped waist. Overall, it makes a man look more robust, simply more present (!) without the boxy look of the 1980s-90s. See, the curvature of the waistline softens the whole effect and still presents the client as a slender man, but now more robust and confident with the lapel being so wide.
The last caveat is that having said all this, it can be a disappointment to the client when at the the end of the day he has to remove his suit and he has to see the truth to himself. I have to do it everyday. HAHA
Another great video ,with as usual great look)), thank you dear for your effort and always glad to watch you , cheers to you and Hugo, love from Cairo.
Cheers to you Nader ! Hugo & Sonya
Perhaps one day I'll come across the "perfect suit"...
Love the video as always! Can you give a video on how toe shape of shoes (round, almond, square, chisel...) affects formality and when / where they were began? And anything else to say about them!
And cheers to the new addition to your family!
Sonja I myself reside in the show me state and grew up in Germany from a Noble Family Heritage bloodline linked to the UK and i always wear a leather Belt except for Morning Wear Attire and Black Tie and White Tie event
Loved the video! However, growing up I was told to match my belt to my shoes. For instance, if I was wearing a navy suit with brown shoes, I'd ditch the option of a black or navy belt and go with a brown belt to match my brown shoes. What do you think of this?
Always good tips ! Very good! Regards from Brazil
Merci Antonio ! Sonya
You are just a pleasure to watch...:)
Super kind and I'm thankful for your response. ~Sonya
Excellent video. Thank you♥️
Thank You Millions 😮😀😊👍🏼 Sonya
You are very welcome Chris ! Sonya
Thank you for being so inspriring😎. Among other things I love the cello piece, your musical signature. Could You please give me information about the composer etc.?
Very informative video Sonya!
What other gentlemen withered away in their seats when they saw the very lovely Sonya in 👓, with all the respect in the world to the great Hugo Jacomet of course
Wonderful Sonya. Can we perhaps have a demo of sorts where in we have different collars and different lapels and see how it looks for a person? It will be exciting!
great content guys! very informative.
Thank you so much for your encouragements. Hugo & Sonya
She said drain pipe legs. 😂😂😂😂😂I love me some Sonya
Ahaha, glad I could oblige. Cheers! ~Sonya
Thanks as always for your amicable responses they have really helped me put things in perspective. Today I aspire to have a yellow dress shirt, pink pocket square, Dark brown suit & dark grey trousers with dark brown shoes. whats your view?
Currently in the process on overhauling my trousers wardrobe. I currently have the lower rise tapered trousers from Uniqlo. However, I have a midsection and broader shoulders and my current trousers make me look like I have carrot legs.
Currently looking for mid-rise trousers with straighter cuts and... hopefully with pleats and cuffs. 🙂
Hi Ced, I would be interested in learning how a wider leg works for you with a slightly higher waist rise ( if you have a longer upper torso, you can raiser the trousers more---but you don't want the waist to close to your pecs, obviously. Definitely play around with the proportions and see what happens---you should not have to tolerate the carrot leg look :):)
Cheers! ~Sonya Glyn
I love this lady😁
See too ! This is why I married her ! Cheers Hugo
pls talk about full canvass and fused suit. ive heard from another youtuber that he got a fused half canvass suit from indochino which is very confusing
SARTORIAL TALKS, what do you think of short suit pants when they are like an inch above your shoe?
Wrist bone is called the snuffbox.
Hugo knew this but I did not. Thank you !! ~Sonya Glyn
I so love and enjoy your videos. You touched on a lot and I learn so much. Great incites!!
Share your thoughts on colour affecting proportions or balance or the perception of... for example, "they" say black clothing makes one look slimmer
No doubt, colours can affect proportions. In the production of "14 Ways to Look Taller", we address how using different colors can break up the silhouette (e.g., the odd waistcoat), which can be a good or not-so-good thing, depending on the effect you want. Great point, ~Sonya Glyn
I recently began wearing suits more than just for special occasions.I am 74 years old and I like the old look with cuffs or turn ups. Is it still ok to wear cuffs on your trousers?
Yes. Cuffs on trousers are beautiful and I wish I had more in my current wardrobe!
Yes ! Cuffs are absolutely wonderful of course ! Sonya
What if you have a drop shoulder, just some extra padding to build it up?
Very interested to hear your thoughts on belts and suits. Most people will say that the belt and shoes need to match. Now, correct me if I am wrong but, do I understand you right when you say the colour of the belt needs to be as close to the colour of the suit as possible?
Hi, Sonya and Hugo! I recently discovered your channel and am a fan! Do you know of any good bespoke tailors in Tokyo? (Sorry, I realize this doesn't relate to the topic of this video.)
Manufacturing for garments woven labels do you need labels for your garments
Loved this segment Sonia! Works for women too! Looking at the Hollywood trouser style for women in the 1940s, like what Audrey Hepburn or Carole Lombard wore ( love this trouser style).. would you wear a tighter jacket with a wide leg trouser or a more flowy, looser one? And would you wear the jacket length shorter or longer? Where would the cut off be? Thank you 😊
Hello, I adore wide trouser legs when I am at a decent body weight ! I can go with shorter or longer jackets---it is really about how the overall silhouette is look and which shoes I'm wearing. It the jacket is longer, the suede pumps come out of the closet. Cheers ! ~Sonya
Great video; great job, production, and delivery.
So I had a few questions..
- Do pleated pants fit/serve athletic legs with more room to walk and climb stairs in?
I found slim, and even straight leg pants can still catch and bind a bit at times with even slightly muscled legs (from moderate legwork, lots of walking, and stairs.
I am thinking of trying at least single-pleated pants. (plus they're warmer in winter).
- With suit lapels, I find my suit lapels (for lack of a better term) "peak" and break because of (I think) either the size of my upper torso, and/or my drop being up to 12" (47"chest minus 35"waist), when the average [U.S.} men's suit drop I've read is only 6".
Are there suits, suit cuts (available off-the-rack or MTM) or even a good trick! that eliminates the lapels' peaking/breaking?
So far I find that only 3-button suits avoid this, but they're very hard to find new.
Suit chest break pic: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0166/9250/files/Screen_Shot_2015-11-30_at_4.03.35_PM_large.png?6282974739786408547
- Is it accurate about button-stance what I've read that the jacket should remain unbuttoned* all the way up to the first button above the navel?
*EDIT: I meant, remain unbuttoned below the navel
The reason given was that so when one leans, bends, squats,etc. or walks briskly, the jacket will move with the body better, and without bunching up (which can also get in one's way).
Also, I've noticed the resulting V-shape silhouette can flatter a guy's figure because the V parallels the V-shaped back muscles (latissimi) which also taper in at about the same point as the navel, thereby enhancing the V.
I find both the above points to work with me; am wondering if this the same for others in general.
- About general overall fit, can a suit be overly sexuallized? No, really.
I see in person - but mostly on Instagram, of course - more guys wearing shrink-wrapped, vacuum-packed, sausage-skins' *erm* "suits" that seem to be made by... Lululemon For Men(?). I sure do hope they are, at the least,"squat-proof", for all our sakes. ;)
- I like how you said at the very end, "if you can really be COHERENT by breaking proportionate rules...": "IF" (to quote the Spartans).
Seems this is a problem with many people who want to break the rules 'just because'(IMO usu.incoherently from what I see) and hope to still makes the desired statement.
I may have drifted a bit; myBad. ;)
Again, a really beautiful video; I love learning all this info.
P.S. Seems you were going for a subtle 'bleu blanc rouge'-look there.
Hello. First of all, pleated trousers are stylish, and are not relics of the 1980s. We own countless pairs of trousers and pleated and non-pleated trousers, when well-crafted, are fantastic. With an athletic build, tight trousers can look bizarre, like you are in a super hero outfit. I
Secondly, if the lapels are breaking, please look at the sleeve pitch and shoulder slope video. If you have sloping shoulders and your jacket is crafted for someone with shoulders perpendicular to the body ('A' slope, you could get a lapel break). If you posture is erect, and your jacket is crafted for a slouchy posture, you could also get a lapel break---there are several factors to consider.
Buttoning the waist button is an unspoken code, but really I'm not sure why. Buttoning more buttons can be a style statement, so only do it if you feel confident doing so.
Aha, shrink wrap suits are hilarious---I don't think men do it on purpose...probably in most cases they just gained some weight (I am not immune from wearing suits that are too tight which mortify me in photos, haha). True what you say, one should break the rules after quite a few years of suiting; it's like adding lavender to vanilla ice cream (first you must understand the art of making vanilla ice cream). Seems you have a grip on a lot of these discussion points. Thank you for being such a great listener. This day I wore what I could find in my suitcase, but now we are filming more from home, so creativity is more of an option. Cheers to you ! ~Sonya Glyn
Great video! Very informative.
Just one question - how do you choose a belt that's similar to your suit if you're wearing navy/grey and a medium brown pair of shoes? I know going darker is an option but wat about without changing other factors
I think you are saying your trousers are grey? A slightly darker rich grey toned belt could be blend with the trousers and make the belt look as if it is "painted out", if you will.
Cheers, ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS yes that's right. Your suggestion makes sense. But we also gotta ensure that the belt is close in colour to our shoes. That's where I think it gets a bit more complicated.
I have come across these claims before. To me they just don't add up:
(1) Your shirt collar should counteract the proportions of your face: if you have a narrow face, don't wear a point collar, as it will make your face look even narrower!
(2) Your lapels should conform to the proportions of your chest: if you have a narrow chest, don't wear wide lapels, as they will make your chest look even narrower!
See the conflict?
Great video. One thing if I may. Pardon me, but wouldn't it be that if you have a large head you'd widen and lengthen the collar to cancel the look of the large head as much as possible? Then, for the smaller head you narrow the collar? In my suit designs these are a few of the rules I use. However, great video. I might even use this as a training video for my people it's so good. Thank you!
Hi PC, Curiously there is a lot of debate on the collar shape versus face shape issue. I subscribe to the yin and yang theory ---off setting wide with narrow and narrow with wide. Yet I do believe perceptions play a part in it all. Check out some examples on Parisian Gentleman article I wrote entitled "Choosing the Right Shirt Collar" parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/choosing-the-right-shirt-collar/ ... and see what you think. Cheers, ~Sonya Glyn
@@SARTORIALTALKS I see what we did there. I re-watched your video and then read again the section in 'Dressing The Man' and we are actually saying the same thing, just in different ways. I meant that; If you have a large head or round face, a bigger collar is more suitable to balance out your appearance. Wearing a tiny collar in such cases will only make your face look disproportionately larger. So, I mistook your collar spread and length for you meaning a tiny collar, but that's not what you meant. As it turns out, we are both saying the same thing. My apologies.
Thank you 👍
Nice one Sonya!
Hey, thanks Rory. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Before I forget again, I have an interesting and fun idea for a potential video or PG post. Since you and Hugo have had the opportunity to meet so many great artisans, I'm curious to hear your insights into some of their personalities. I thought a high school yearbook style discussion would be fun and informative ex. "Most likely to become a comedian", "Most likely to star in their own reality show", "most opinionated" etc. As I'm sure we can agree, the product is only a tiny fraction of what makes this "hobby" so enjoyable.
Thank you.
You are very welcome. Sonya
I tried to look for you on facebook? I`m hoping you and your family are doing well during this pandemic, I seeing that it really bad there in France. Good Luck Scott
Hi Scott, My Instagram account is @sonyaglyn Thank you for your concern. We have no choice but to see this through. Thank you ! ~Sonya Glyn
One observation of mine is that a proper button stance does not look right if the jacket doesn't have nice quarters. You lose that fulcrum point
Good one, Steve---I wish I had thought of it ! Cheers, ~Sonya
Makes all the difference, I have been late to game in terms of requesting a lowered button stance. So many makers go too high with the stance. Best, ~Sonya
Thank you for your informative video Sonia.
Could I just ask, for a 5"6-5"-7 man how low would you recommend a suit jacket/blazer to hang?
Lately I've been trying to find a good fitting jacket but with no luck, as many of the jackets are either have long sleeves, or are low hanging, thus making me look shorter.
Please could you advise me on this?
Thank you in advance
Hi, I would study photos of Daniel Radcliffe in well-fitted suits (even navy blue double breasted) and find inspiration there. Also look at the video "How to Appear Taller" and the Parisian Gentleman article on the same subject. Cheers and enjoy the process ! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you again for your advice Sonya!
But ... but ... what happened to the intro music?
We are working on a new opening sequence for the future. But you can still listen to the music during the end credits. Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
Couldn't you also argue that if you have a wide face and wear a slim shirt collar, that it makes your face even wider because it is contrasted to something so small and dainty?
Good thing to note---with Hugo's wide head, when he wears a narrow collar, the collar points are quite long and not stubby, and the "look" is spectacular. Cheers and thanks for commenting. ~Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS thanks for the reply!
Thanks for the sound advice. I dislike the current trend for suits that appear two sizes too small; perhaps it’s a carryover from the hipster skinny jeans look. Just my opinion.
It's also post-Crash economics: less material = less cost to produce, PLUS they raise the prices on top of that.
Also, the current cohort of younger [U.S.] men (aka Millenials, but not only) can be smaller** than previous generations (despite overall increasing obesity in the population), so I think the clothes would have to... fit them? The regular suit cuts on them would look like... "weeping willows" [from the video].
**medical grip-tests show Millenial mens' upper-body strength to have dropped to the level of Millenial women, so, less-than-average musculature on the guys; smaller clothes lines required? .
Not my cup of tea as well, yet I guess some (very few) men can pull off the rock-n-roll streamlined look. Best, ~Sonya
Fantastic points, Sam, and always enjoy your perspective. Thanks for taking the time to reflect and respond like you do. I laughed at your last point, because lately I have seen so many hyper fit teenagers as well as those in their 20s. Cheers, ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hopefully your "hyperfit teenagers" mean the French youth are healthier than we are here.
(and wish us luck during this upcoming pandemic💪).
I think the editor made an error. The speaker seems to introduce the shoulders section twice.
Yes it is a small editing mistake indeed. Sorry for that. Hugo
love it thanks
Thank you for watching ! ~Sonya
Thanks Sonya, what would be your recommendation for the length of trouser turn-ups , I am aware that it can have an effect of shortening the legs, I have the same height as Hugo (179cm). Thank you
At your height, you should enjoy the vibe of trouser turn-ups from time to time---this style can be endearing and charming, especially when paired with brogued-shoes. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you Sonya, what would be the ideal turn-up height, 4cm or 5 cm, if I am aiming for the right proportion, and not trying to break them
Ma'am which brand's eyewear are you wearing in this video
I have the luck to wear bespoke spectacles by Maison Bonnet from Paris (and London). Fantastic artisans and great family. Yours, Sonya
What a woman ! Great body and sweet voice.
I concur that! She's my wife!! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Lucky guy
Proportions should follow the 1/1.6 the golden ratio.
Yes, it's true in an ideal world (with ideal bodies) where the chest measurement should be 1.618 the waist measurement. Sonya
I love you Gus
I knew you meant "guys"....ha, thank you so very much. ~Sonya
I love your voice, but as someone new to this it would be great to have some visuals to go with your examples. A picture in the corner would be perfect.
We have improved since this production, thanks to comments like yours ! ~Sonya
Anyone could tell me what did her say about move down the button to where and why? My English is very suck, cann’t listen it clearly😭
Hi! Just place the main button "somewhere close to where your navel could possibly exist". Cheers, Sonya
Sonya,
I am a college student studying to be a pastor and have very little money. What do you and Hugo recommend for those of us interested in elevating our style but have little to no money? I'd like to invest in quality but don't and probably won't have the money but I still want to try. Thanks!
Blessings and congratulations Noah. There is a production here that Hugo did on you first suit, as well as another one on starter suits here th-cam.com/video/Y1Ayqo0Dy4M/w-d-xo.html . I hope this helps and feel free to drop a line on my IG account @sonyaglyn if I can advise further. Bonne continuation ! ~Sonya
Please add english subtitles and picture to explain. Opinion from a non native english speaker. I would like to learn more about suit, but my english is not enough to catch up the speech 😭
MAYBE SOMETHING MORE MODERN WITH SHARPER EDGES...
I have a wide face but hate none spread collar styles.
I hear you sir, it's just a rule of thumb which works very well for many of us, but if you like spread collars, then of course enjoy yourself! Cheers and have a wonderful Sunday, Hugo
I’m also a firm believer of the navel position. Great video. Thanks for Sharing
Hello. Glad you agree, and I think more and more of us are getting on board with understanding how button stance can make a difference in the overall look of an ensemble. Cheers to you! ~Sonya Glyn
@@SARTORIALTALKS AMEN! Especially lately, where button stance, jacket gorge, skirt break and trouser rise all seem to be incredibly disproportionate, especially in off the rack clothes. "Modern" suits look (to me, anyway) like a father is trying to wear his son's clothes.
even her voice sounds expensive
Unfortunately there are snobby purists who insist that anything outside of the very traditional fits (like those mentioned at the end of the video) should be burnt in a fire
Hi Jeremy, What you say holds true for the die-hards! I lean a lot on intuitiveness, but people are different. Thank you for commenting ! ~Sonya
Hi I am from india
I so badly was hoping that she would turn and address ME, not some person off camera.
i`d like your e-mail to stay in touch.
How much gap should a 5'10 feet man between his navel and the button where he knots his notch lapels? A normal guy with 15-20% body fat
Guys
I like a lower gorge
Hugo used to love the high gorge, but he's becoming more reasonable since a few years ! Best, Sonya
What's with this look I've seen for the last 5 years or so where it looks like the wearer grew up since the suit was purchased? Makes the wearer look like a little boy, slender legs, shorter coat etc. Why a man would think this is appropriate is borderline disturbing, but commenting on that is for different youtube channel!