First of all, I adore your humor and the contrast between your serious no nonsense delivery and the jokes makes it even more funny. Secondly, this was extreamly interesting and helpful, thanks for sharing ^^
...I will add (or rather, admit) that I've had a couple of jackets taken to my alterations tailor and I've subsequently been very dissatisfied with the overall proportions of the jackets. On was a a vintage bespoke suit, double breasted and in a nice, subtle check pattern. The problem: jacket shortened - proportions all off (!). Similarly, I had a jacket altered with working cuff buttons and that was a disaster as the tailor didn't tell me that I couldn't keep the working buttons - he just stitched closed all the holes. I wish I had seen your video several years ago as I would have realised what challenged there are when altering a garment/jacket. I normally try to buy vintage and get altered as I don't have a fat wallet. I now look more carefully to see if a suit can be altered, or if it's worth a the challenge of getting the fit right. I'm in the middle of looking for a new tailor and recognise I may have to pay more for the skills of a real artisan/craftsman/woman. Rant over. Thanks for the video and say hi to Rupert - what a guy;-) Tony
@DATING HARLEY QUINN Yep - I guess alterations are: 1) a skillful process that requires a good understanding and eye for proportion. 2) limited as Niklas' video highlights! Appreciate your comment. Tony
Knowledge well packed 😍 And from now on my seamripper has the official nickname "the unstitcher"! Now it will feel way much cooler to use it 😉 like a wand...unstitch...
Ever since getting into classic mensware I always think how cool it would be to make your own suits. There's a lot of suit styles nowadays that are boring and all the fun ones are usually expensive. Really want to learn tailoring as a hobby. I've been reading online and how it takes upwards to 10 years of sewing to make a suit. I'll think about it. It's always at the back of mind.
I'm in the same boat. I've been altering stuff by hand and expanding as I improve. So far I have tempered 2 overshirts(sleeve and body), tempered 2 shirts(sleeve and body), shortened 1 pair of trousers, raised the crotch on 2 pairs of trousers & 1 pair of shorts and shortened 2 pairs of sleeves & 3 pairs of trousers. My next steps are tapering a blazer body and after that is going to be shortening shirt and blazer sleeves. Once I have space for a sewing machine I hope to build myself up to building a suit from scratch eventually
You can always just do it. I mean, get really cheap fabric you could throw out without it hurting, find a step-by-step tutorial and a pattern. That way, you can afford to screw up 4-5 times. Just cut it up, make rags and start over. Once you can do it well enough, get proper fabric. From what I gather, vests are easier than shirts and trousers which are easier than a jacket. Work from simple to complex and you'll be able to make it work. That strategy worked for me with highly technical topics. It's how I learned to work with machine learning models, structural vector autoregressions, etc. for my thesis and it was good enough to get papers published. I figure, why wouldn't it work for tayloring clothes? You just start doing it and learn from trying to apply methods one at a time. Pick more accessible stuff first so it's difficult, but not a guaranteed failure. 😂
My suit jacket is far too big for me, so I will essentially use it as fabric instead of altering it a bit, but your video helped a lot to see how it should turn out
Great video, thank you! I just wanted to add that there seems to be another way to change a jacket that is too wide at the shoulders. My corrections tailor took the sleeves off, then cut fabric away at the shoulders, and put the sleeves back on. I don't know the details, but at least it looked like this was what he was doing by the way he applied the markings by tailor's chalk. I was very satisfied with the result, anyway.
@@Vintagebursche honestly is not. Just take it to someone who is used to MAKING clothes. Setting sleeves is easy once you have it internalized, but requites PRACTICE
It's the professional way but also really difficult since U have to adjust the width of the sleeve as well. Since when cutting off fabric from the shoulders U change the original arm hole, which makes it more difficult
very informative! it would be so cool if you did a video showing fitting issues in jacket in the process of being made at the fitting stage and how to address those in the pattern!
As I’m suit shopping with/for my partner this weekend (and he is one noodle of a man which makes tailoring a necessity) this video came appeared on my page with perfect timing!
This was FANTASTIC ! I love men's jackets, but bought one secondhand that "mostly" fit - the tweed is gorgeous! But I think it was a boys jacket. Slim fit, a bit long for me, & way too long sleeves. I never had the guts to attempt shortening the arms, & was afraid to ruin the silhouette. But, wearing it with rolled back cuffs is not optimal ! At least now I know a bit more about fit and alterations & will maybe buy another coat to practice shortening sleeves on before I attempt the tweed ! ;) Still afraid to mess with the silhouette! :/
I've been looking for a while for a video where someone demonstrated how the jacket moves when raising your arms so I was glad to find your video however unfortunately you left the jacket unbuttoned on the bespoke example which likely exaggerated the difference or benefit of smaller armholes. I understand the logic of smaller armholes but I'd love to see a clear comparison between an off the rack jacket and a properly bespoke jacket showing the full range of motion, raising the arms above the head straight up and maybe even doing some windmills with the arms to really understand what our expectations should be realistically. Is it even possible to build a suit the doesn't move no matter what your arms are doing like a t-shirt?
Informative video that makes clear why you should always have your garments bespoke tailored. When not possible a expert alteration tailor, preferably a person who can cut patterns, is hired. Ther is a lot possible, also making armholes slimmer, but often it is not worth the price. Vintage peices often have additional seams on the inside, when you cut all seams losse you can fold them out and create new pattern.
Nice video. Shortening a jacket can be done by more than 1" but in my experience one also needs to alter the pockets. Eg, if it is a patch pocket, you can remove it and shorten it slightly so it is in balance with the jacket. If it is a flap pocket, you can remove the flap and reattach it slightly higher above the pocket opening. However, I am an amateur so I don't know if professionals would do this.
the video was really informative and helpful, as I am gathering courage to sew a suit jacket :) I wonder if there is a way to adapt a pattern for a very slim S-figure? I have found how to alter the pattern for a big belly, a sway back and a curved spine, but nothing for "sunken" breasts. I have sewed a coat already, but it sits funny in the breast area, no matter how much I altered the pattern :(
@VintageBursche Could you do a more fair comparison of the armholes in a short? I have a coat that fits perfectly everywhere, but I'm not quite sure how high I should be able to take my arms in a sport coat.
You can shorten a jacket length from the shoulders. I do it all the time, and if you know what you're doing it comes out beautifully. You also end up with higher armholes, a more narrow shoulder and in most cases a more drapey chest. Yes recutting the collar is not easy and resetting the sleeves adjusted for the lost circumference is not either, but what in life is.
@@otitojuabidemi7682 It obviously moves up a little, but you should align it to your armpit anyway, and since that doesn't change, it's really not an issues.
will the waist not be too high then? but i guess considered the other alterations, smoothing that area will be the easiest....lol you have a lot of patience!!
Hab deinen Kanal jetzt erst durch die direkt suche auf TH-cam gefunden, weil ich einfach nur Frauen vorgeschlagen bekommen habe. Bin Recht neu in der Näh/Historischen Community. #GrüßeAusKöln Finde deine Videos mega cool :) Endlich Mal männliche Inspiration! Ein kleiner Tipp aus der Videotechnik/Aus dem Grafikdesign Bereich: Bei Einblendungen wie deinen Kommentaren die du im Video hast, sollte man die Einblendung solange stehen lassen wie du sie dreimal zum lesen brauchst in normalem Lesetempo. Also du blendest das ein und ließt den Kommentar dreimal in Ruhe durch. Dann erst wird er wieder ausgeblendet. Somit hat jeder andere der das vorher noch nie gelesen genug Zeit sich das durch zu lesen. Selbstverständlich ist es dir überlassen ob du deine Zuschauer lieber dein Video pausieren lässt und er damit den flow des Videos für sich unterbricht. Aber ich wollte dir das Mal mitteilen. Man kann auch nur zweimal lesen, kommt immer auf die Länge an. Das mit den dreimal lesen ist so ne Faustregel :)
I never heard of using the back seam to alter the shoulder width on a men's suit jacket. Usually it's done by removing the sleeve and cutting the jacket at shoulder and then reattaching the sleeve. If done right, this is just the perfect solution.
Adjust the shoulder width by taking the sleeve off and reduce the width of the shoulder would be easier ? I've done that on one of my jacket with good result.
I think they're solutions to different problems IMO. I'd do it from the sleeve if the collar laid beautifully and the jacket had a ton of room. But since it might require redrafting the armscye, you could end up basically taking your jacket apart and recycling the panels, you know? Could be worth it if the fabric is beautiful.
I have to say... congrats to the bot that links to a rather eXcItInG website asking you to be discreet - because you are going to see some dames in their birth costume - whilst already plastering your whole screen with them :D Also hilarious video, and my respects to Rupert for being such a patient model, plus the topic actually is very important. So great job!
Eee dramatic intro! Also- consider putting a tiny little face on Rupert, I drew an itsy bitsy little face on one of the mannequins at school... Still waiting to see if my class'll be told off. Also also- 'sweet little butt cheeks', dear lord sweet jaysus, alright.
Einen Anzug aus Maßkonfektion kaufen. Also das was meist als "Maßanzug" verkauft wird. Aber besser nicht online, sondern in einem Ladengeschäft mit Beratung.
Hi :) I am not sure who you are aiming for in this video, but you are adjusting wrong. We never, well very seldom, do adjustment thru the back seam. The reasons are many, one huge reason is that you are messing with the grain line. Adjusting the shoulder width is not hard and not done the way you say. We would never ever do it that way. Never ever take it in at the sleeve head either. I see some "tailors" do that and at the same time "shortening" the sleeve and it is not the right way to do it, again, you are messing with the grain line and the sleeve will not fall right. All the best.
What? You just mentioned all to the parts that are main reasons for us to go to a tailor. This guy was just indirectly telling us how incompetent and irrelevant tailors are. A good tailor should be a good designer, and should be innovative. Thanks for this lengthy video that just tells us to go buy a jacket that fits you.
I agree on high armholes, but you basically cheated. You showed how bad low armholes are with buttoned jacket and high-raised arms, then raised your arms less and didn't even button the jacket when wearing the bespoke, thereby alleviating a good deal the deforming process that happens when lifting your arms. Personally, I still have not found a jacket with armholes small enough for me in ready-to-wear.
Okay dude I'm going to call Shenanigans on the whole big arm holes or stick your movement dude my suit has big arm holes and I move just fine in it I do just fine in that really like okay hold on a minute just going to call Shenanigans on that say bye
Haben Sie im Englischunterricht aufgepasst? Und haben Sie schon mal darüber nachgedacht warum es sinnvoll sein könnte eine Nische auf Englisch zu präsentieren? Das hätte der Welt diesen Kommentar erspart.
my only experience with a tailor resulted in sloppy looking cuffs and nice hong kong hems sheared off and sergered over, i need more videos like this in my life.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Armhole comparison is unfair because you didn't button down the bespoke suit
And he barely lifted his arms the second time
100%
Very basic topic, but done in a very interesting and informative way. Awesome.
Wait a moment, I recognise you from commenting on Gentleman's Gazette videos! Pleasure to see you again
@@carltrotter7622 And I recognize your name but not the profile picture :)
First of all, I adore your humor and the contrast between your serious no nonsense delivery and the jokes makes it even more funny.
Secondly, this was extreamly interesting and helpful, thanks for sharing ^^
...I will add (or rather, admit) that I've had a couple of jackets taken to my alterations tailor and I've subsequently been very dissatisfied with the overall proportions of the jackets. On was a a vintage bespoke suit, double breasted and in a nice, subtle check pattern. The problem: jacket shortened - proportions all off (!). Similarly, I had a jacket altered with working cuff buttons and that was a disaster as the tailor didn't tell me that I couldn't keep the working buttons - he just stitched closed all the holes.
I wish I had seen your video several years ago as I would have realised what challenged there are when altering a garment/jacket. I normally try to buy vintage and get altered as I don't have a fat wallet. I now look more carefully to see if a suit can be altered, or if it's worth a the challenge of getting the fit right. I'm in the middle of looking for a new tailor and recognise I may have to pay more for the skills of a real artisan/craftsman/woman.
Rant over. Thanks for the video and say hi to Rupert - what a guy;-)
Tony
@DATING HARLEY QUINN Yep - I guess alterations are: 1) a skillful process that requires a good understanding and eye for proportion. 2) limited as Niklas' video highlights! Appreciate your comment. Tony
Knowledge well packed 😍
And from now on my seamripper has the official nickname "the unstitcher"! Now it will feel way much cooler to use it 😉 like a wand...unstitch...
Ever since getting into classic mensware I always think how cool it would be to make your own suits. There's a lot of suit styles nowadays that are boring and all the fun ones are usually expensive. Really want to learn tailoring as a hobby. I've been reading online and how it takes upwards to 10 years of sewing to make a suit. I'll think about it. It's always at the back of mind.
I'm in the same boat. I've been altering stuff by hand and expanding as I improve. So far I have tempered 2 overshirts(sleeve and body), tempered 2 shirts(sleeve and body), shortened 1 pair of trousers, raised the crotch on 2 pairs of trousers & 1 pair of shorts and shortened 2 pairs of sleeves & 3 pairs of trousers. My next steps are tapering a blazer body and after that is going to be shortening shirt and blazer sleeves. Once I have space for a sewing machine I hope to build myself up to building a suit from scratch eventually
You can always just do it. I mean, get really cheap fabric you could throw out without it hurting, find a step-by-step tutorial and a pattern. That way, you can afford to screw up 4-5 times. Just cut it up, make rags and start over. Once you can do it well enough, get proper fabric. From what I gather, vests are easier than shirts and trousers which are easier than a jacket. Work from simple to complex and you'll be able to make it work.
That strategy worked for me with highly technical topics. It's how I learned to work with machine learning models, structural vector autoregressions, etc. for my thesis and it was good enough to get papers published. I figure, why wouldn't it work for tayloring clothes? You just start doing it and learn from trying to apply methods one at a time. Pick more accessible stuff first so it's difficult, but not a guaranteed failure. 😂
My suit jacket is far too big for me, so I will essentially use it as fabric instead of altering it a bit, but your video helped a lot to see how it should turn out
Thank You for this video, it is very interesting :)
Great video as all your videos by the way the gag of the chicken was really funny!
"it should cover your sweet lil' buttcheeks🤣🤣🤣 This guy!
Great video, thank you! I just wanted to add that there seems to be another way to change a jacket that is too wide at the shoulders. My corrections tailor took the sleeves off, then cut fabric away at the shoulders, and put the sleeves back on. I don't know the details, but at least it looked like this was what he was doing by the way he applied the markings by tailor's chalk. I was very satisfied with the result, anyway.
Interesting idea! I haven't seen that yet, but it sounds even more difficult than using the back seam. Obviously, you have a very capable tailor.
@@Vintagebursche honestly is not. Just take it to someone who is used to MAKING clothes. Setting sleeves is easy once you have it internalized, but requites PRACTICE
This is the correct and proper way of adjusting shoulder width or even shortening sleeves
hem....i think sleeve tops and collar are most difficult@@justmoritzmaybe not difficult but labourous then,,,,
It's the professional way but also really difficult since U have to adjust the width of the sleeve as well. Since when cutting off fabric from the shoulders U change the original arm hole, which makes it more difficult
very informative! it would be so cool if you did a video showing fitting issues in jacket in the process of being made at the fitting stage and how to address those in the pattern!
As I’m suit shopping with/for my partner this weekend (and he is one noodle of a man which makes tailoring a necessity) this video came appeared on my page with perfect timing!
This was FANTASTIC ! I love men's jackets, but bought one secondhand that "mostly" fit - the tweed is gorgeous! But I think it was a boys jacket. Slim fit, a bit long for me, & way too long sleeves. I never had the guts to attempt shortening the arms, & was afraid to ruin the silhouette. But, wearing it with rolled back cuffs is not optimal !
At least now I know a bit more about fit and alterations & will maybe buy another coat to practice shortening sleeves on before I attempt the tweed ! ;)
Still afraid to mess with the silhouette! :/
Reducing the arm length at the shoulder may be preferable. The side seams at the waist may benefit from being taken in also. Best of luck.
Gosh that chicken armhole dance jumpscared me.
Nice🤣
Useful video thanks Niklas with excellent support from Rupert
Thanks a lot! Such a well done & helpful video
I've been looking for a while for a video where someone demonstrated how the jacket moves when raising your arms so I was glad to find your video however unfortunately you left the jacket unbuttoned on the bespoke example which likely exaggerated the difference or benefit of smaller armholes. I understand the logic of smaller armholes but I'd love to see a clear comparison between an off the rack jacket and a properly bespoke jacket showing the full range of motion, raising the arms above the head straight up and maybe even doing some windmills with the arms to really understand what our expectations should be realistically. Is it even possible to build a suit the doesn't move no matter what your arms are doing like a t-shirt?
no it is not, armhole height is overrated
This taught me a lot, thank you.
Informative video that makes clear why you should always have your garments bespoke tailored. When not possible a expert alteration tailor, preferably a person who can cut patterns, is hired. Ther is a lot possible, also making armholes slimmer, but often it is not worth the price. Vintage peices often have additional seams on the inside, when you cut all seams losse you can fold them out and create new pattern.
Nice video. Shortening a jacket can be done by more than 1" but in my experience one also needs to alter the pockets. Eg, if it is a patch pocket, you can remove it and shorten it slightly so it is in balance with the jacket. If it is a flap pocket, you can remove the flap and reattach it slightly higher above the pocket opening. However, I am an amateur so I don't know if professionals would do this.
Love the suit you are wearing.
This is amazing, and I love your humour! Thank you!
the video was really informative and helpful, as I am gathering courage to sew a suit jacket :) I wonder if there is a way to adapt a pattern for a very slim S-figure? I have found how to alter the pattern for a big belly, a sway back and a curved spine, but nothing for "sunken" breasts. I have sewed a coat already, but it sits funny in the breast area, no matter how much I altered the pattern :(
@VintageBursche Could you do a more fair comparison of the armholes in a short? I have a coat that fits perfectly everywhere, but I'm not quite sure how high I should be able to take my arms in a sport coat.
You can shorten a jacket length from the shoulders. I do it all the time, and if you know what you're doing it comes out beautifully. You also end up with higher armholes, a more narrow shoulder and in most cases a more drapey chest. Yes recutting the collar is not easy and resetting the sleeves adjusted for the lost circumference is not either, but what in life is.
what about your chest pocket
@@otitojuabidemi7682 It obviously moves up a little, but you should align it to your armpit anyway, and since that doesn't change, it's really not an issues.
will the waist not be too high then? but i guess considered the other alterations, smoothing that area will be the easiest....lol you have a lot of patience!!
Dieses Intro wird nie langweilig
I have a Harris tweed blazer and it's a mile long I think they make them that way if you need to shorten
Hi.....just the topic I needed....
Is there any hope for my husband that is 195cm tall and skinny as a rake? Custom made suits are not in our budget but it is nice to be dapper.
Hab deinen Kanal jetzt erst durch die direkt suche auf TH-cam gefunden, weil ich einfach nur Frauen vorgeschlagen bekommen habe. Bin Recht neu in der Näh/Historischen Community. #GrüßeAusKöln
Finde deine Videos mega cool :)
Endlich Mal männliche Inspiration!
Ein kleiner Tipp aus der Videotechnik/Aus dem Grafikdesign Bereich: Bei Einblendungen wie deinen Kommentaren die du im Video hast, sollte man die Einblendung solange stehen lassen wie du sie dreimal zum lesen brauchst in normalem Lesetempo. Also du blendest das ein und ließt den Kommentar dreimal in Ruhe durch. Dann erst wird er wieder ausgeblendet. Somit hat jeder andere der das vorher noch nie gelesen genug Zeit sich das durch zu lesen. Selbstverständlich ist es dir überlassen ob du deine Zuschauer lieber dein Video pausieren lässt und er damit den flow des Videos für sich unterbricht. Aber ich wollte dir das Mal mitteilen.
Man kann auch nur zweimal lesen, kommt immer auf die Länge an.
Das mit den dreimal lesen ist so ne Faustregel :)
Thank you, for the facts, clearlt communicated with excellent explanations. Now, is your very handsome necktie bespoke or brand-name?
The dark green tie I'm wearing in the video? That's a vintage piece from Gianni Versace.
@@Vintagebursche -- Yes. Thanks.
Would you consider to make a tourorial video where you show how you make these changes?
I never heard of using the back seam to alter the shoulder width on a men's suit jacket. Usually it's done by removing the sleeve and cutting the jacket at shoulder and then reattaching the sleeve. If done right, this is just the perfect solution.
Great job
Adjust the shoulder width by taking the sleeve off and reduce the width of the shoulder would be easier ?
I've done that on one of my jacket with good result.
I think they're solutions to different problems IMO. I'd do it from the sleeve if the collar laid beautifully and the jacket had a ton of room. But since it might require redrafting the armscye, you could end up basically taking your jacket apart and recycling the panels, you know? Could be worth it if the fabric is beautiful.
Fun vid, thanks! 🙏🏻
I have to say... congrats to the bot that links to a rather eXcItInG website asking you to be discreet - because you are going to see some dames in their birth costume - whilst already plastering your whole screen with them :D
Also hilarious video, and my respects to Rupert for being such a patient model, plus the topic actually is very important. So great job!
Can you alter a suit with stripes on it? Would it not mess up the lines of the stripes?
What if the armholes are slightly too high and they're slightly cutting into under the arm would they be too tight at that point
So the armhole cannot be made smaller but can it be raised higher?
great !
What make is the shirt?
4:02 holy shit you read my mind
I❤ thanks
Nice 👍
Eee dramatic intro!
Also- consider putting a tiny little face on Rupert, I drew an itsy bitsy little face on one of the mannequins at school... Still waiting to see if my class'll be told off.
Also also- 'sweet little butt cheeks', dear lord sweet jaysus, alright.
3:28
isn't it also a bit unfair because you buttoned to the top button on the first jacket whilst leaving the second completely unbuttoned?
Yes, true. Didn't remember to button the second one. But I can assure you that it doesn't take off more when buttoned.
@@Vintagebursche Okay. Still excited for the detachable collar video! 😃
Arm holes... 1. The button isn't done up. 2. You move different in each demo
Was macht ein Mann mit waagerechten, geraden Schultern , so wie ich (ehemaliger Sportler) ?
Einen Anzug aus Maßkonfektion kaufen. Also das was meist als "Maßanzug" verkauft wird. Aber besser nicht online, sondern in einem Ladengeschäft mit Beratung.
that chicken dance clip got a giggle out of me.
Hi :) I am not sure who you are aiming for in this video, but you are adjusting wrong. We never, well very seldom, do adjustment thru the back seam. The reasons are many, one huge reason is that you are messing with the grain line. Adjusting the shoulder width is not hard and not done the way you say. We would never ever do it that way. Never ever take it in at the sleeve head either. I see some "tailors" do that and at the same time "shortening" the sleeve and it is not the right way to do it, again, you are messing with the grain line and the sleeve will not fall right. All the best.
What ist the best way to adjust the shoulder width?
What? You just mentioned all to the parts that are main reasons for us to go to a tailor. This guy was just indirectly telling us how incompetent and irrelevant tailors are. A good tailor should be a good designer, and should be innovative. Thanks for this lengthy video that just tells us to go buy a jacket that fits you.
👏👏👍👍
3:02 and 4:00. Dude didnt do it nearly enough of on the expensive jacket.
I agree on high armholes, but you basically cheated. You showed how bad low armholes are with buttoned jacket and high-raised arms, then raised your arms less and didn't even button the jacket when wearing the bespoke, thereby alleviating a good deal the deforming process that happens when lifting your arms.
Personally, I still have not found a jacket with armholes small enough for me in ready-to-wear.
Du solltest ehrlich marc gebauer um eine Kooperation bitten.
Okay dude I'm going to call Shenanigans on the whole big arm holes or stick your movement dude my suit has big arm holes and I move just fine in it I do just fine in that really like okay hold on a minute just going to call Shenanigans on that say bye
Entschuldigen Sie, mein Herr, aber warum müssen Sie als Deutscher Englisch sprechen? Bitte sprechen Sie Deutsch, es ist eine schöne Sprache.
Haben Sie im Englischunterricht aufgepasst? Und haben Sie schon mal darüber nachgedacht warum es sinnvoll sein könnte eine Nische auf Englisch zu präsentieren? Das hätte der Welt diesen Kommentar erspart.
my only experience with a tailor resulted in sloppy looking cuffs and nice hong kong hems sheared off and sergered over, i need more videos like this in my life.