Thanks so much for posting this video. I've got a "small ball" with the same issue. No voltage at the brush head connection. Im assuming it's a bad PCB board. The board is $25 US but after seeing how complicated the repair is i thin o might be better off throwing it out.
Excellent video! I appreciate the attention to detail. I just cleaned out my brush roll and I thought it would work, but it didn't. I think after watching your video I have made the decision to "run away" and get a different vacuum at this point. Informative, educational, entertaining, and some wisdom at the end. If you have a DC50 that isn't working, you NEED to watch this video. Long but definitely worth it! Bravo!
This video was great. My brush head wasn't working, only intermittently with no rhyme or reason. I changed the toggle switch next to the power button, but didn't fix issue. So I cracked it open and put a multimeter to the PCB. I checked the trigger switch that activates the brush roll when tilted back was going on and off, and that there was power going to the brush roll. With it disassembled and brush roll connected everything worked. I tightened up the brush roll head connectors by squeezing, and added some tape to certain connectors to ensure they wouldn't come unseated. All works great now after using it around the house for an hour. I'm chalking it up to a loose connector.
Oh my goodness these are bad vacuums. Extremely complicated to service, a lot of problems and those brushroll bristles worn very quickly. They also clog quickly. Well we always have you Sam to show it all and see a lot of effort to fix it.
Great video and handy to know which bits come apart before you break the plastic. I've always had the approach that the worst thing is you break it but you learnt. I did infact change the motor of which had seen better days so just a few more bits to take off but watched your video for the clue to get stuck in. The result is all done and working like new so happy there but as you mentioned they dont really want them taken apart!
awful video he hasn't a clue nor do you if you think this is how to do the job www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=dc+50+pcb+replacement#kpvalbx=_lMBAYMK8DLeFhbIPrfuy4A88
I tested with a multimeter and was seeing some spikes in voltage after the switch for the vacuum to start spinning. No spinning, getting only 1.9 to 2.2 volts when engaged, occasionally at a specific angle or a specific temperature, the bar would spin briefly. Tells me that there's definitely power, but it's significantly diminished. Power spike would be around 12 to 13 volts. If it was a broken lead, it would show nothing. I'm hoping the PCB is the actual issue.
Hi! I watched a couple of your videos on TH-cam. I have a dyson dc 50. We are having trouble with the brush spinning consistently. It seems like it will only spin when the handle is at a certain position. I have my dyson torn apart right now, not sure if you have any other ideas of what it could be before I order this part to try. Or if I should just go get a new vacuum 😂
Is there any way to fault find on the motor itself or the connections to the brush head? With a DVM i am getting about 12-13V from the two connectors on the main body. Is that what would be expected? I assume if the PCB has blown, then you would read next to nothing from these two connectors? therefore I can assume the PCB is fine, and the brush head motor is at fault?!
I'm not that technical with testing things to that extent (I'd love to learn) but what I usually do with a continuity meter is the switch, then the loom from the pcb to the head (with a check of the pcb for anything obvious), then strip the brushroll motor out of the head and check it's not got a blown comm segment (common) and weigh up which part to chuck on it... Equally I've replaced a pcb and the head span for half a revolution then blew that pcb so it might be easier to find a known working set/scrap machine that the head runs on... Good luck! I'll see if I can find any technical info on the Manchestervacs forum, hang on
cleaned my brush bar on dc41 still didnt work followed wiring from switch found pcb wit a big burn mess on it fitted a new on brush all turning freely tested it an it blow the new pcb £35 down still no vacuum cleaner any ideas dont really want to chance new head and another pcb it would be £100
Please note! That PCB has a large capacitor on it and it will contain power even when unplugged. Be careful messing with it, especially with a metal screw driver around it or any of the boards components/solder points.
Dang, although don't be too hard on yourself, sometimes they do just blow for fun/overheat when the exhaust air slows as the filters clog, so it's still a crap shoot unless you go through it all first.
Thanks so much for posting this video. I've got a "small ball" with the same issue. No voltage at the brush head connection. Im assuming it's a bad PCB board. The board is $25 US but after seeing how complicated the repair is i thin o might be better off throwing it out.
Excellent video! I appreciate the attention to detail. I just cleaned out my brush roll and I thought it would work, but it didn't. I think after watching your video I have made the decision to "run away" and get a different vacuum at this point. Informative, educational, entertaining, and some wisdom at the end. If you have a DC50 that isn't working, you NEED to watch this video. Long but definitely worth it! Bravo!
I think you just saved me a lot of time by showing that last point of failure - that a bad beater motor can blow a brand new PCB. Thank you!
This video was great. My brush head wasn't working, only intermittently with no rhyme or reason. I changed the toggle switch next to the power button, but didn't fix issue. So I cracked it open and put a multimeter to the PCB. I checked the trigger switch that activates the brush roll when tilted back was going on and off, and that there was power going to the brush roll. With it disassembled and brush roll connected everything worked. I tightened up the brush roll head connectors by squeezing, and added some tape to certain connectors to ensure they wouldn't come unseated. All works great now after using it around the house for an hour. I'm chalking it up to a loose connector.
Oh my goodness these are bad vacuums. Extremely complicated to service, a lot of problems and those brushroll bristles worn very quickly. They also clog quickly. Well we always have you Sam to show it all and see a lot of effort to fix it.
Thank you so much!! You just saved me $500 by showing me how to replace a faulty $25 PCB board.
I find I can change the pcb wihtout taking the ball hinge off. You can slide the PCB cover over the front
Great video and handy to know which bits come apart before you break the plastic. I've always had the approach that the worst thing is you break it but you learnt. I did infact change the motor of which had seen better days so just a few more bits to take off but watched your video for the clue to get stuck in. The result is all done and working like new so happy there but as you mentioned they dont really want them taken apart!
awful video he hasn't a clue nor do you if you think this is how to do the job www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=dc+50+pcb+replacement#kpvalbx=_lMBAYMK8DLeFhbIPrfuy4A88
do u have a video on how to replace the hose inside the small/ball dyson?
I tested with a multimeter and was seeing some spikes in voltage after the switch for the vacuum to start spinning. No spinning, getting only 1.9 to 2.2 volts when engaged, occasionally at a specific angle or a specific temperature, the bar would spin briefly. Tells me that there's definitely power, but it's significantly diminished. Power spike would be around 12 to 13 volts. If it was a broken lead, it would show nothing. I'm hoping the PCB is the actual issue.
So is the brush bar motor a lower voltage DC motor rather than 240V?
Hi! I watched a couple of your videos on TH-cam. I have a dyson dc 50. We are having trouble with the brush spinning consistently. It seems like it will only spin when the handle is at a certain position. I have my dyson torn apart right now, not sure if you have any other ideas of what it could be before I order this part to try. Or if I should just go get a new vacuum 😂
Is there any way to fault find on the motor itself or the connections to the brush head? With a DVM i am getting about 12-13V from the two connectors on the main body. Is that what would be expected? I assume if the PCB has blown, then you would read next to nothing from these two connectors? therefore I can assume the PCB is fine, and the brush head motor is at fault?!
I'm not that technical with testing things to that extent (I'd love to learn) but what I usually do with a continuity meter is the switch, then the loom from the pcb to the head (with a check of the pcb for anything obvious), then strip the brushroll motor out of the head and check it's not got a blown comm segment (common) and weigh up which part to chuck on it... Equally I've replaced a pcb and the head span for half a revolution then blew that pcb so it might be easier to find a known working set/scrap machine that the head runs on... Good luck! I'll see if I can find any technical info on the Manchestervacs forum, hang on
manchestervacs.co.uk/DysonForum/index.php/topic,4205.0.html
cleaned my brush bar on dc41 still didnt work followed wiring from switch found pcb wit a big burn mess on it fitted a new on brush all turning freely tested it an it blow the new pcb £35 down still no vacuum cleaner any ideas dont really want to chance new head and another pcb it would be £100
You made a difficult job look easy 😁
Please note! That PCB has a large capacitor on it and it will contain power even when unplugged. Be careful messing with it, especially with a metal screw driver around it or any of the boards components/solder points.
Very sound advice! I got a nice belt from a neato charging pcb by looking at it the wrong way
I have the same but purple version and it is somehow much weaker than my V7 🤔
Do you restore vacuum cleaners?
kinda wish I'd seen this video before blowing up a brand new replacement pcb. Perhaps I should have asked myself why the pcb blew in the first place..
Dang, although don't be too hard on yourself, sometimes they do just blow for fun/overheat when the exhaust air slows as the filters clog, so it's still a crap shoot unless you go through it all first.
Verygood video
How on Earth did they make these things on the production line? So bloody complicated
How much for a dc 40 brush head ?
£20 used on ebay usually. Their not renowned for burning out, most just come from scrapped and parted out machines
@@beko1987 thanks 😊 btw do you have a old hoover you don’t want or need
Dyson really dont like us getting inside and fixing them ourselves.
And YES it's a hateful job lol.
👍😎
Wat is wrong with the brushroll why not Spinning
Did this job complete ball ache then only just got my money back when I sold it 🤣👍
Good thing you sold it because the dc50 is the worst upright corded vacuum they make
hello
Those types of fruitless repairs can be very frustrating.
Dreadful machine to work on and as a vacuum cleaner in general, there’s virtually no grooming of the carpet I hate them with a passion.
Jesus Christ