I used something called Rust All a few years ago on a Pro-Line 1966 Ford F- 100 body for my Arrma Granite 4x4 BLX, and it turned out awesome. Now I'm wanting to do another rusty body and can't find Rust All anywhere. I'm going to have to give this stuff a shot. Thanks so much for this video.
just ordered a kit for my king kong zil-130 build im doing thanks to your video, going to go with a flat black and rust highlighting similar to your blazer, might even lightly scorch the wooden bed panels with a propane torch like they do in shou sugi ban to give them an aged appearance. Can't wait.
I gotta hand it to ya', that really looks real, especially the Blazer. Only thing though, aren't real truck caps made out of non-rusting fiberglass? On another note, there are video's by thercsubguy that shows this guy using the same paint to put realistic rust on rc subs. He mixes up a bit of the paint with vinegar and then brushes it on to let it rust. After it sets up (12-24 hrs) he goes over the rust with a brush or cloth to fine tune the effect the way he wants. Anyway, he says the vinegar works just as well as the activator for a fraction of the cost. The effects on his models looks really good.
That is awesome I have thought about vinegar now I know it works the activation spray is expensive I also brush it on now yes the cap might be fiber Glass on the military blazer but wasn't sure also i was having so much fun trying this paint i didn't want to stop lol
I just bought some of this stuff. Bought the green copper patina stuff too. I've never been into r/c cars, only airplanes. I stumbled upon your video while searching for ways to 'artfully' rust a steel Stratocaster pickguard in a manner that actually looks appealing... and your methods/techniques for using this stuff are spot on for what I need to do. Great video! Your Blazer actually looks so good I'm now actually eyeballing a Gmade Buffalo myself. Looks like a lot of fun and no 'runway' required!!!
Thank you very much I fly ro been flying rc planes for 10 years but started doing this style trucks on windy days and now I drive more than I fly lol glad it helped I really appreciate the great comment
Here is a tip for better rust once you get to the activator step. Take the body and put it in a big plastic bag or garbage bag if you don't have one big enough. Then spray it with the activator and then wrap it up in the plastic bag kind of tight so the wet bag stays in contact with the body. This makes it so it doesn't evaporate and you and get some deep rust going on it because it stays in contact and you don't waste activator spraying it a bunch of times. I normally leave the body overnight and check it in the morning.
This stuff is incredible - I first saw it on "RC Everyday" and excitedly tried to order it on Amazon.UK, only to find that the seller was asking 140 pounds, which is around $197! At the time it was $40 in the US. I just had another look, and found that only the activator is currently on sale on Amazon.UK. At least this has forced me to get creative and try other techniques. I´ve had some success with allowing steel wool to rust away in a jar of water, then evaporating away most of the water and adding a little PVA wood glue. If I could get my hands on the Modern Masters system, would I use it instead? Heck, yeah!
Bro - you summed up Weathering when you said "The accidents make the best Weathering!" 😉 I've used a very similar method for years, on Model Trains. It's only a 2 Stage though (still acrylic 2 stage - no primer). THIS setup might be better for Lexan Bodies, because when I tried mine on a Power Wagon Body, a lot of it FLAKED OFF. 😖 I love Weathering, and have been doing it for almost 30 years. (Not in RC though) This product, I'd like to try!! 😁 Maybe I'll attempt another Weathered RC Body.... Thanks Brent, that was an excellent presentation!! 👋👋👋👋👋
☝️🤘🤠🇺🇸nice informative video there Brent,cool to watch scale work nice patina effect loved watching this my friend,great job ☝️🤘🤠stay safe and well in Ohio,Dave in Cornwall 🇬🇧🏴🌧🏄🏻♂️
does this stuff have a texture or is it smooth? I'm interested in having a "nice" paintjob on top of a rusty paintjob, so that as my body accumulates damage over time it "reveals" the rust
Anyone know what will activate other than the activator? I went through my entire bottle of activator and have a ton of iron paint left over. I tried vinegar but didn't think it worked great
I tried vinegar to didn't think it worked well so I use a small brush in stead of spraying makes it last longer they have refills on Amazon but the activator is expensive I think
@@AdventureTimeRC yeah I'm in the same boat basically. It's more then half the cost of just buying the entire kit again. Or at least it feels like it. I out some of the iron paint on my marlin crawler last night and within a couple hours it had dried and stated rusting just from our humid air in Vancouver haha. Hopefully someone can recommended something that works as well as the activator. I also made a mix of steel wool and vinegar months ago and haven't checked on it. Maybe I'll crack that open and mess around. Maybe it will set off the iron paint
@@AdventureTimeRC I'm pretty close to the ocean water but I don't get any of the salt air at my house. Maybe I should take the body down to the ocean and give it a dip
Just FYI the topper on a K5 Blazer is not metal they’re a fiberglass type material which means they don’t rust. So remove the rust on the K5 topper & remake this video brah
Cool product and technique but you need to be aware of where you use it. Keep it off of what would be rubber, glass or plastic. K5 Blazers had fiberglass back roofs, they wouldn't rust.
I used something called Rust All a few years ago on a Pro-Line 1966 Ford F- 100 body for my Arrma Granite 4x4 BLX, and it turned out awesome. Now I'm wanting to do another rusty body and can't find Rust All anywhere. I'm going to have to give this stuff a shot. Thanks so much for this video.
This stuff works pretty good I use it a lot it just keeps rusting over time
Really cool to see how this works.!! Awesome video. !!
Thank you Brian I appreciate it
Great video👌
Thank you very much my friend
Good job, great look !
Thank you very much
There's no better rust than real rust, excellent work 👍
Very true this stuff is great glad Sean told me about it
Great video, thanks.
Thank you very much
Way to work your craft good job👊🏾🔥🔥
Thank you very much my friend I appreciate it
just ordered a kit for my king kong zil-130 build im doing thanks to your video, going to go with a flat black and rust highlighting similar to your blazer, might even lightly scorch the wooden bed panels with a propane torch like they do in shou sugi ban to give them an aged appearance. Can't wait.
Very good products to make a really realistic rusty style, great job 👌
Thank you its really fun to work with great product
very helpful demo. Worth a try.
I'll also be a guinea pig!!
I have done 3 trucks with it so far really liking it
@@AdventureTimeRC Brent, have you tried it on Lexan Bodies that have only been painted on the INSIDE? That might have been my problem...
Nice Job!
Nice job... I like
Thank you very much my friend
I gotta hand it to ya', that really looks real, especially the Blazer. Only thing though, aren't real truck caps made out of non-rusting fiberglass?
On another note, there are video's by thercsubguy that shows this guy using the same paint to put realistic rust on rc subs. He mixes up a bit of the paint with vinegar and then brushes it on to let it rust. After it sets up (12-24 hrs) he goes over the rust with a brush or cloth to fine tune the effect the way he wants. Anyway, he says the vinegar works just as well as the activator for a fraction of the cost. The effects on his models looks really good.
That is awesome I have thought about vinegar now I know it works the activation spray is expensive I also brush it on now yes the cap might be fiber Glass on the military blazer but wasn't sure also i was having so much fun trying this paint i didn't want to stop lol
Nice work well done looks good 👍
Thank you very much my friend
Very cool my friend. Awesome stuff.
Thank you very much my friend
Awsome rust and weathering details bro, 👍
Awesome video excellent job both look amazing even better in person
Hope you make the ledges
This came out really nice
Nice thanks for the tips. I won't ask how your non-ferrous blazer top is rusting. Looks good!
Great video my friend👍good job👍👍💯
Thank you very much my friend
I like the way that turned out have to check it out thanks brother
Thank you brother I really like the stuff
Awesome video 🤩👍
Thank you very much my friend
I just bought some of this stuff. Bought the green copper patina stuff too. I've never been into r/c cars, only airplanes. I stumbled upon your video while searching for ways to 'artfully' rust a steel Stratocaster pickguard in a manner that actually looks appealing... and your methods/techniques for using this stuff are spot on for what I need to do. Great video! Your Blazer actually looks so good I'm now actually eyeballing a Gmade Buffalo myself. Looks like a lot of fun and no 'runway' required!!!
Thank you very much I fly ro been flying rc planes for 10 years but started doing this style trucks on windy days and now I drive more than I fly lol glad it helped I really appreciate the great comment
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing :)
Thank you very much I appreciate it
Here is a tip for better rust once you get to the activator step. Take the body and put it in a big plastic bag or garbage bag if you don't have one big enough. Then spray it with the activator and then wrap it up in the plastic bag kind of tight so the wet bag stays in contact with the body. This makes it so it doesn't evaporate and you and get some deep rust going on it because it stays in contact and you don't waste activator spraying it a bunch of times. I normally leave the body overnight and check it in the morning.
Looks real good bro👍
Thank you brother I really appreciate it
Great work Brent 💯 That really gets the details of weathering into the Modeling ✌🤠👍 HFLPRCing
👍😎👍 AOAH 🌟 RCF4L 🙏 Stay Safe and Play Healthy My Friend
Thank you Larry I really appreciate it brother its a great product fun to use
Wow, looks awesome
Thank you very much
Nice video, thank you.
Thank you very much
Looking good, nice vid!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you very much I appreciate it
Nice! Looks like it rusts just about as fast as when you used to strip those second gen Trans Ams to do body work on them super fast!😜
Lol yeah it good stuff I really like it great for models to
Rusty trucks never looked so good!! Nice work and thanks for the info! 👍🏼
Thank you very much I really appreciate it
Good stuff, does make the weathering look a lot better.
Thank you very much Malcolm
Cool! I like it!
Thank you very much I appreciate it
You expressed how to rust really well! 👍👍🚙🚙😎😁 The video keeps me surprised. Great R/C, it's really cool. 👍🏻😀
Thank you very much my friend I appreciate it
Awesome video my man stuff gets it looking really like realistic rust great job thumbs up 👍
Thank you very much I really like it works great for my old trucks
Wow that looks crazy realistic! Happy accidents LOL
Thank you Tyler got to love those happy accidents
👍🏾🔥💯 good job
Thank you very much I appreciate it
Fiberglass doesn't rust. Just a note that the rear roof of a Blazer is Fiberglass IRL. Great product and thanks for the demo!
Yeah I know but I wanted to rust it anyway came out looking cool so I'm happy lol thanks for watching I really appreciate it
This stuff is incredible - I first saw it on "RC Everyday" and excitedly tried to order it on Amazon.UK, only to find that the seller was asking 140 pounds, which is around $197! At the time it was $40 in the US.
I just had another look, and found that only the activator is currently on sale on Amazon.UK.
At least this has forced me to get creative and try other techniques. I´ve had some success with allowing steel wool to rust away in a jar of water, then evaporating away most of the water and adding a little PVA wood glue. If I could get my hands on the Modern Masters system, would I use it instead? Heck, yeah!
Its great stuff really fun to work with to hopefully you can find a good deal
Love your tutorials always enjoy, hey how you liking the buffalo?
🤘😎🙏
Thank you Lou I really like it will have some run video up sometime this week took it out over the weekend
Like always love your work brother, awesome job
Thank you Javier I really appreciate it brother
Bro - you summed up Weathering when you said "The accidents make the best Weathering!" 😉
I've used a very similar method for years, on Model Trains. It's only a 2 Stage though (still acrylic 2 stage - no primer). THIS setup might be better for Lexan Bodies, because when I tried mine on a Power Wagon Body, a lot of it FLAKED OFF. 😖
I love Weathering, and have been doing it for almost 30 years. (Not in RC though)
This product, I'd like to try!! 😁 Maybe I'll attempt another Weathered RC Body....
Thanks Brent, that was an excellent presentation!! 👋👋👋👋👋
Mine was made by Sophisticated Finishes, if you've ever heard of that one... Great for Hardbodies - notsomuch for Lexan...
Thank you Carmine it seems to be durable to I had the truck out today drove it through water and rocks and nothing flaked off
Sweet!! The Primer must make a difference.
☝️🤘🤠🇺🇸nice informative video there Brent,cool to watch scale work nice patina effect loved watching this my friend,great job ☝️🤘🤠stay safe and well in Ohio,Dave in Cornwall 🇬🇧🏴🌧🏄🏻♂️
Thank you Dave I was pleased with this product it really works great
Looks awesome brother are used to do similar things when I was younger when I made models but look so good on rc's great job Brent mate👍🤟👊😎🇬🇧😊
Thank you Leon I am really happy with it great stuff
im a bit late but omg that is awesome
Thank you very much
Thats awesome stuff wonder if we can get that in uk, great footage pal trucks looking awesome 😁👍✌🙋♂️
You should be able to its easy ro find on line its really great stuff
Fantastic work Brent brother. I find the best weathering is time.. lol I do love the rust look on the rigs. You're right it did come out amazing.. :P
Thank you Nick really appreciate it brother
Great video! Can i do it on lexan?
I've had a buffalo for three years now and haven't replaced one part. Front locker is a little worn but that's it.
Very nice work there definitely will help me also i have added my play list ( how to make it look rusty ) 👊
Thank you very much I have tryed it on 3 trucks now and one i took out and ran though water still holding up good product
Nice effects. Are you able to use these with an air brush also?
Thank you very much I think its to thick to water down for a airbrush I imagine the iron paint would really clog it up
does this stuff have a texture or is it smooth? I'm interested in having a "nice" paintjob on top of a rusty paintjob, so that as my body accumulates damage over time it "reveals" the rust
Thank you for watching it has a rough finish when dry feels like surface rust
Does this work with 3d printed bodies?
How did you get the iron in the K5 paint?
I used a file on a piece of scrap steel gathered up the filings and sprinkled them on between coats worked pretty good
The rust looks cool but a blazers rear top is fiberglass so you shouldn’t have done the effect on that area
I Second this
do you spray it with flat clear after that?
No I do not I like to leave it exposed so it continues to rust on its own
Awsome video!
Do you do a clear coat afterwards to protect it? Or you just let her ride!
I just let it ride lol it looks even better over time
Seen you at the Ledges yesterday
Lol I was definitely there thanks for checking out my video I have lots of footage from the ledges coming up
@@AdventureTimeRC can't wait to see it
@@AdventureTimeRC can't wait to see it
Man I was just looking around trying to find something like this
You will love it works so good and easy to use
Anyone know what will activate other than the activator? I went through my entire bottle of activator and have a ton of iron paint left over. I tried vinegar but didn't think it worked great
I tried vinegar to didn't think it worked well so I use a small brush in stead of spraying makes it last longer they have refills on Amazon but the activator is expensive I think
@@AdventureTimeRC yeah I'm in the same boat basically. It's more then half the cost of just buying the entire kit again. Or at least it feels like it. I out some of the iron paint on my marlin crawler last night and within a couple hours it had dried and stated rusting just from our humid air in Vancouver haha. Hopefully someone can recommended something that works as well as the activator. I also made a mix of steel wool and vinegar months ago and haven't checked on it. Maybe I'll crack that open and mess around. Maybe it will set off the iron paint
@@benbrown9538 i took my trucks to Florida last month and the rust really set in lol warm salty air
@@AdventureTimeRC I'm pretty close to the ocean water but I don't get any of the salt air at my house. Maybe I should take the body down to the ocean and give it a dip
@@benbrown9538 or maybe dip it in salt water in the sink that might work
wouldn't the rear top section have been fiberglass? never seen fiberglass rust.
I think I've got this comment about 100 times I like it this way and that's all that matters the whole point was to show how the rust paint works
Just FYI the topper on a K5 Blazer is not metal they’re a fiberglass type material which means they don’t rust. So remove the rust on the K5 topper & remake this video brah
Cool product and technique but you need to be aware of where you use it. Keep it off of what would be rubber, glass or plastic. K5 Blazers had fiberglass back roofs, they wouldn't rust.
I know I owned a 78 Blazer but I was having fun with the rust and didn't care lol