I can't express enough how grateful I am that you acknowledge the reasoning behind IFR and IMR usage and make a logical, rational explanation why you don't recommend them while also not scolding, belittling, or mocking the people who do use them or are considering using them. This is exactly the kind of thing that is needed for people who are new to the hobby. The entire video is great, but I wanted to thank you specifically for that part :)
I cannot thank you enough for this walk through. I have two of this blaster and just wanted to do some basic stuff without complication. I found your video very informative and easy enough to follow. Thank you so much.
Thank you, Captain Xavier! You are the first youtuber, that I've seen, who has brought up the fact that the not all members in the audience know how to solder
U can definitely fit a 2400mAh lipo in that blaster I remember doing that (not recommended if ur not playing for more than a day). I also recommend magnets to hold ur battery door as I’ve find the original to easily be lost or no longer hold the door. Jase3d has also very swagalishous parts for the modulus (flat top, mag release, flared magwell, rev trigger) do check him out
I have one of these, minus the k26 though Works great when you remove the plastic peice that stops the darts from going too fast Funny story, I found that out because MY BRAND NEW DARTS were getting their heads TORN OFF
I actually am really happy to know that honey badgers work with alkalines. I have several broken blasters from friends with burnt out motors so that’s good to know that I can keep it somewhat stock. Well done cap.
I'm a plinker not a gamer so IMR is all I need to just get my darts going in a straight line instead of an arch. At 30 ft inside.stryfes are stacked in goodwill for 2 bucks so I just stack em up in case I burn em out. So far I haven't burned one yet. I use the Nitecore
I really like your disclaimer and clarification on why we don't use those batteries which shall not be named. I just wanted to add for people still skeptical, Cap mentions it could burn house down, that's not theoretical. What he's describing has absolutely burned houses and sheds down. You can find a few stories about it.
I got into nerf about a year ago and the original plan I had was to stick three trustfires in a barricade, but I still wanted to do it right. I asked around on r/nerf and I ended up buying a soldering iron, 18awg wire, an omron, xt-60 connector, worker flywheels, and a 2s lipo. I couldn't be happier. Thank you for helping others avoid a mistake I very nearly made.
I clicked on this video out of pure boredom not expecting to learn anything and learnt to scrap my idea to run my main battle rifle off of IMR's and go back to the plan of using a lipo, thank you so much as I had no idea of the safety concerns
Thank you so much for highlighting the issues with higher voltage batteries! We have a lot of people in my local Nerf group who think that they can just run higher voltage batteries and beat modified blasters, and tend to get rather upset when they don't beat out professionally-upgraded platforms. That smell of fried wires and motors when their batteries finally destroy their blasters is something I dread..
Appreciating the plug for Honeybadgers and alkalines. I've been recommending them over 14500 IMRs and IFRs for an odd two years by now, and it's true that they get a respectable performance increase (they already run faster than necessary for most flywheel set-ups on 2S, Honeybadgers on 6V or even 4.8V after being discharged a bit will still be a decent step above stock. That said, this series is covering some new ground, and in the best way. Apart from entertainment value, it's providing a platform for education I can't complain about.
Our nerf wars have a 130 FPS cap due to our facility, and for that FPS cap, the setup I recommend for maximum FPS, spin up, and accuracy is an OFP aurora cage, Fangs ReVAMPed, and Blasterparts flywheels. It get's about 125 FPS, and the accuracy and spin up are excellent besides that, it isn't terribly expensive, less than $50.
Just thought I should clarify something. The Out of Darts wheels are the Insutantos, while the other ones by Containment Crew with the cyclone art on them are, well, Cyclones. Also now that I know Valkyries and Insutantos work on 43mm cages, I should probably take a look at my valkyries...they may not be in the best of shape...
I own 6 Core ECS-10s. Two are aesthetic mods only, for LARP. one will be dual stage (Dual krakens, high crush worker wheels. The Thingiverse cage is 41.5mm) One will be Krakens with a 42.5mm cage, and one will be Fang Revamps with a 43mm cage. Hoping for over 170fps with the dual stage, and should be happy with the single stages. Very timely video for me.
A heads up, single stage Daybreak wheels on 40.5mm or 40mm should get you over 170fps. In my Demolisher with Daybreaks/Krakens/41mm cage I'm hitting about 154-160fps avg with some peaks up to 173fps. As a bonus, Daybreaks are super easy on the darts and I've seen barely any wear on them.
I've got an ECS-10 in my "to do" list, as a step-up from Stryfes (got 2 to do, so should be good practice for the ECS-10) FIrst Stryfe will have a Worker aluminium cage, flywheels and 130 motors. My second Stryfe will have a Worker clear cage, a pair of Krakens, and Bulldog wheels. Both running on 2s Lipos. Thanks for this video Captain, as it gives me the push to get these flywheel blasters done - always been apprehensive about electronics before (I'm more mechanically minded, so prefer working on springers).
lastly, i dont mean to double comment and clog a thread but as a big fan of this particular blaster, it has a few really big plusses in my book now that the line is a bit older .) the amount of useable attachments color coded to it has grown. including the customizer pack stock, rail mounted magwell, tri strike stock and barrel, and rail barrel from the ultimate customizer pack .) it already has a rifle feel and proper length. you dont need to add anything more than a stock and youve got a comfortable longarm .) the added tac rails. the modulus has the most rails of any blaster as far as i know. its designed to be what i feel both the auxiliary and the captain himself strives for, modular. yes there exists third party parts to put onto a stryfe but for those not wanting to buy third party parts, still wanting the extra functionality and keeping it with a toy appearance, the ecs-10 has the space to do so. i can put the tri strike stock and/or barrel on and tackle special infected, i can use the chrono barrel and the third party modulus knock off scope that was made into a blue flashlight for everything else. i can keep up to 5 magazines all drawable on the blaster itself and keep a ogofy scope on it all with first party materials or cheap clones of first party materials with the sheer volume of attachment options and ways to store ammo for them .) it fires in the way the aux battle rifle should, semi automatic, flywheel fire. .) the internal shell space is perfect for ghost mods if you dont want to make the blaster look different or that different. dont need moto covers for 130s running for HvZ, dont need a battery door at all since the battery placement is so good, dont even need too much modding for duel stage if one wanted, its all available in the shell space already given. my squad uses these as standard medium infantry rifles along with the mediator for light infantry and regulator for heavy infantry.
If you're nervous or reluctant to go to lipo, you can go with the janky but much safer route of just adding more regular batteries to increase voltage. It's harder on smaller blasters but for something like the modulus it shouldn't be a problem
I've learned that modding a Modulus is great fun, but i've also learned that your Eir should be broken. (that thing is so complicated) your awesome (captain, Xavier, bro, idk what to call you, but your awesome) great content btw.
I personally think petrol powered leaf blowers are probably a better investment found one for 31dollars on Ebay. The wind travels at 251mph which is 368fps. Hook that bad boy up to a proton pack and a proper barrel and you have something truly terrifying.
Perfect time for me to find this. Got one from goodwill with completely busted and corroded battery tray. I have never modded a fly wheeler before so hopefully I succeed.
I just screwed mine open. ripped the electronics, kept al the important stuff. Used stuff i had lying around(wires, soldering iron), ripped a lego technic 6 pcs battery pack to pieces and moddified it to take electrical wire put i back together and its a 9 volt, hardhitting gun. The downside is that it jams a lot (2 or 3 times per mag). But for the rest im happy and i spent nothing on it
Technical quibble: Motor braking is just shorting the motors onto themselves and the battery does not participate in this process. It takes the voltage produced by the coasting motors (because a coasting motor is essentally a generator) and runs it back into the motor backwards thus driving the motor backwards until it stops. it is somewhat harder on the motors in that the waste motion of the motors coasting down is being converted into heat in the braking process, but battery life should not be affected. Regards.
Me and a friend are currently modding a modulus (we've taken a small break from it atm). We left the bottom in the battery tray and put velcro on it and the lipo so the lipo isn't loose inside. I do believe it is a 3s lipo.
My modulus is a 4 stage but I extended it with a second modulus. I flipped the scope riser around on the second one and integrated it as a full carry handle.
Hey i realized you haven’t made this series since last year. Did you end it? It’s a really cool series and this can help more people get into nerf because maybe some guy down the street doesn’t know how to mod. Please continue K26 and beyond
I've got another little project going to see if I can get a solenoid driven pusher using a rack/pinion setup to double the throw of the solenoid. I'm guessing that will need to be 3s.
Do you feel it is necessary and cost effective to upgrade the flywheels and their cage upon upgrading the motor? I feel it won't change that much seeing as you already have faster spinning flywheels, the only benefit being the crush.
A lot of stock cages won't properly hold aftermarket motors. Sometimes you can get the mounting straps to work, but it's much better to use a cage that you can securely mount the motors in. Aside from that, up to a point higher crush definitely boosts performance more than just increasing speed will. Increasing speed without putting more pressure on the dart will cause you more slippage which alongside not performing can cause more burn on the darts than having proper grip will. You can somewhat get around this if you're using wheels that are bigger around since that's *effectively* increasing the crush.
LiFePO4 batteries how do these new kinds of batteries measure up? Supposedly they're very safe about over discharging but I dunno about the current requirements
now that this has been out a while, i would suggest the ultimate customizer pack stock for its rail and adjustability. as far as a barrel, the chronobarrel unless you need special ammo in which case, teh tri strike barrel absolutely.
now days lipos are more cheaper these days get a 3s lipo on ebay for $30 aud i dont trust those battery things they seem sketchy better to just find a cheap but safe lipo
I'm building my own full auto conversion and installing a 2s2p 18650 pack using the stock motors on my modulus ecs10. I'm not looking for huge fps gains, just a nice little bump. and my rate of fire should be around 4-6 shots per second. I'll see if the fps drops too far or not. I'm also replacing the battery cover with a double barrel aux blaster that ties into the rail so that it is quickly removable for charging the battery. Should be a fun little blaster afterwards.
Am happy you addressed the battery issue. As I’m a noob in this - the IMR type batteries seem very dangerous. My thought was first rechargeable AA form factor ala the Panasonic Eneloops - this product: • Increased power for high-drain devices • Rechargeable up to 2,100x • Retains 65%-70% capacity after 5 years • No memory effect • Can be charged when partially drained • Functions down to -4deg F AKA IKEA’s Ladda batteries ? Wouldn’t they been safer than LiPo?
Since they're NiMH type batteries, they are *potentially* safer than any Lithium batteries by merit of being much more tolerant to abuse and reacting much more weakly when they hit their breaking point. Using these in the stock battery tray will work and should get you greater overall performance than Alkaline AAs would, if you're wanting something to use without rewiring. Something you could do is get a "4AA" NiMH pack that would fit into the battery tray with a little trimming, and has a plug on it so you can rewire your blaster to skip the tray and just plug in.
@@StSparky IMRs *are* a type of Li-Ion AA cells. There are other types, IFR and ICR I believe, but IMR are the most powerful versions and still cause problems in our use cases. NiMH are the safest option that isn't stock Alkalines.
you know if you whip out your soldering iron and a bit of wire you can redo the battery connection to use all 4 of the batteries, 2s2p for added capacity
An old video, I know, but I'd love to see an update on your Modulus. Did it get a paint job and the flared magwell? Did you leave it at 3s or did you change out the setup altogether? I agree it's a cool shell, and because of this video, I made one for myself. There's not a whole lot that feel like this blaster. Needless to say, this is one of my favorites, so I'd love to see where it ended up! Thanks, Cap!
Hmm... Stryfe Full Auto kits don't fit, but do regular Stryfe pushers, the Semi Auto kind fit? Worker's hybrid pusher seems like something I might try if so, makes it so I don't have to be picky with darts/mags.
Hi, cap, I know, old video, but do you remember what crush did the cage with Kraken have? I'm looking for the same config, and can't decide between 41.5 vs 42mm
They all can't unless you rewire it. They are designed to take normal batteries. If Captain Xavier does can it take IMRs in stock form, than that's something.
@@benabad4186 actually 2s LiPos are only 7.4v (the same as 2 IMRs) so it is not that much of a boost and probably wouldn't damage the system too fast. 3s is 11.1v (the same as 3 IMRs) and will fry the system.
I have numerous 2s R.C. lipos of different sizes that I use in my blasters. All I do is upgrade the wiring keep the stock switches and use a quality battery connector. My modulus ecs 10 and stryfes all operate just fine. Performance for me is noticeably better. I even put a 2s lipo in my nemesis with no upgrades at all besides a quality battery connector.
They are not even remotely identical internally. They use a very similar mechanism but the parts and internal dimensions are not identical. So no, the full auto kit will not just drop in.
Yep, down to the cage being just about the same aside from a couple of supports needing clearance. The main issue with the Demolisher is that you have to cut the shell even for 130 sized motors unless you use the stock cage and wheels. Additionally, it's slightly harder to fit a LiPo in the stock battery tray since it's a 4x1 square instead of a 2x2 rectangle like lots of other blasters, and the battery tray is on the opposite side of the shell from the other components. Overall it just tends to be more involved than some other blasters due to little things that need to be taken care of.
When you think about it even as a money saver IMR/IFR's fall short. 6 to 12 dollars every few months depending on how active you are will pretty quickly jump up to $150-$200 for accidental arson device that WILL break on you. Compare that to $120 at most for a blaster you can rely on and won't kill you AND you've learned _two_ new skills. It stops looking like a choice really.
I'd love to see a mod guide or something of that nature for the halo ar that came out to advise halo infinite. I'd love to be able to use that more like an actual ar.
I'd like to see the Incisor have a mod guide. It didn't get much love because stock it jammed a little too much. But I have a feeln a 2s upgrade would fix the slow rev of the flywheels that causes said jamming.
You'll do basically the same thing for wiring. Positive from battery to rev switch to motors, negative from motors to battery. The stock has a lot of internal space and the AA battery tray is a separate piece you can just lift out to have much more space with no cutting. There is one more lock than normal that tries to make sure you get a full pull on the trigger to rotate the turret, but in my experience they wear out and get stuck.
I dunno, just something that can make you annoyed. I saw something I thought was a new episode of my favorite show and it turned out to be this dumb gnome thing
can you please discuss Li-ion batteries at some point? i had my electrical engineer brother in law helping me with a blaster mod, and he picked them out for a power source (Tenergy brand, fang r motors). other more experienced nerfers ive talked to have responded warily of them. i am far from being well versed enough in electronics (like at all) to know their pros and cons.
..I already have. Did a whole video on them. ...it is also what the first 8 minutes of this video covers. IMRs and IFRs ARE Li-ion batteries. So are LiPos...
Hey capt. I do have IMRs and use them in a stryfe, but I have rewired the blaster with 18 gauge wire and new switches and better motors from worker. And I also purchased a metal cage, is my current setup still dangerous? Also one reason why I have upgraded everything but the most important part, the batteries, is because I don’t play with others almost at all and rarely ever play with my blasters that I’ve modded after the fact. So I feel like investing into Lipos just isn’t worth it.
Using aftermarket motors is actually about the worst thing you can do with IMRs or other Lithium based AA/14500 sized cells. Aftermarket motors will almost always try to draw more current from batteries, especially without the restrictions of the stock wiring. This higher draw *will* overdraw these inadequate batteries and may cause them to fail catastrophically. If you are set on using the stock battery tray, which itself is poor quality for conductivity, then I would suggest NiMH batteries such as Eneloops as a much safer option. They're lower voltage than Lithium cells, but they can handle the current much better and if they fail they will not react nearly as violently. You could also use a more capable NiMH pack for cheaper than a LiPo setup since they can use a cheaper "dumb" charger.
@@thenerfbeaver6482 Yes, Eneloops and other AA sized NiMH batteries, or a sealed pack that should be able to fit into the Stryfe tray with a little trimming and a plug rewire.
@ Captain x what about the brushless set up for this blaster files are on thingiverse as well... just thought you might would want to go over kill with it .. great video
Hey Captain, great and informative video as ever. Just a quick question. You mentioned Volt meters at the end and I do intend to use one. But I don't know where it would fit in the wiring plan. Will you be covering that in your next flywheel mod video?
The same outcome you usually get with halfway solutions. A poorly functioning waste of time and money. Do it right or don't do it at all. The only upgrade motors that will work with IMRs are Honey Badgers and even they don't work well with them. Switching to LiPo is faster, safer, cheaper, and yields far better results.
What type? I'm curious what do you think the options are... Anything sold by OutofDarts.com will work. They key is to have a Dec capacity and C-rating.
@@CaptainXavier if i use a stock modulus with accustrike darts and change the pusher for short using a 15 round talon mag with flywheel adapter with worker gen 3 short darts will that change the FPS much
![[REVIEW] Nerf Modulus Regulator | SELECT-FIRE IS HERE!!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xAUNhWBaDqo/mqdefault.jpg)
I can't express enough how grateful I am that you acknowledge the reasoning behind IFR and IMR usage and make a logical, rational explanation why you don't recommend them while also not scolding, belittling, or mocking the people who do use them or are considering using them. This is exactly the kind of thing that is needed for people who are new to the hobby. The entire video is great, but I wanted to thank you specifically for that part :)
Ohm's law is a great thing to go over before dealing with any electronics.
Wats dat
1st or 2nd or both
@@fishgravy5320 twinkle twinkle little star power equals i squared r.
Or, V = I * R
14:31 "But I'm an adult and I will stick my finger in the flywheel if I feel like it."
Lol, Well actually I do that too sometimes to fix jams.
I couldn't help but laugh at that... :)
I got a Modulus from the local Goodwill, and it didn't Rev. But with the knowledge I've learned from Captain Xavier helped me repair it.
I cannot thank you enough for this walk through. I have two of this blaster and just wanted to do some basic stuff without complication. I found your video very informative and easy enough to follow. Thank you so much.
Thank you, Captain Xavier! You are the first youtuber, that I've seen, who has brought up the fact that the not all members in the audience know how to solder
U can definitely fit a 2400mAh lipo in that blaster I remember doing that (not recommended if ur not playing for more than a day). I also recommend magnets to hold ur battery door as I’ve find the original to easily be lost or no longer hold the door. Jase3d has also very swagalishous parts for the modulus (flat top, mag release, flared magwell, rev trigger) do check him out
I love how you keep coming up with innovative video ideas.
I have one of these, minus the k26 though
Works great when you remove the plastic peice that stops the darts from going too fast
Funny story, I found that out because MY BRAND NEW DARTS were getting their heads TORN OFF
I actually am really happy to know that honey badgers work with alkalines. I have several broken blasters from friends with burnt out motors so that’s good to know that I can keep it somewhat stock. Well done cap.
yes!!! I have been waiting a long time for a modulus ecs-10 appearance.
I'm a plinker not a gamer so IMR is all I need to just get my darts going in a straight line instead of an arch. At 30 ft inside.stryfes are stacked in goodwill for 2 bucks so I just stack em up in case I burn em out. So far I haven't burned one yet. I use the Nitecore
I really like your disclaimer and clarification on why we don't use those batteries which shall not be named. I just wanted to add for people still skeptical, Cap mentions it could burn house down, that's not theoretical. What he's describing has absolutely burned houses and sheds down. You can find a few stories about it.
thanks for covering this one. I will bring in a Stryfe to the event and hope you can give it a blessing for the wars.
I got into nerf about a year ago and the original plan I had was to stick three trustfires in a barricade, but I still wanted to do it right. I asked around on r/nerf and I ended up buying a soldering iron, 18awg wire, an omron, xt-60 connector, worker flywheels, and a 2s lipo. I couldn't be happier. Thank you for helping others avoid a mistake I very nearly made.
I clicked on this video out of pure boredom not expecting to learn anything and learnt to scrap my idea to run my main battle rifle off of IMR's and go back to the plan of using a lipo, thank you so much as I had no idea of the safety concerns
You are welcome. Not only is it safer, in the long run it is cheaper.
Thank you so much for highlighting the issues with higher voltage batteries!
We have a lot of people in my local Nerf group who think that they can just run higher voltage batteries and beat modified blasters, and tend to get rather upset when they don't beat out professionally-upgraded platforms. That smell of fried wires and motors when their batteries finally destroy their blasters is something I dread..
Sad but true. But cost and skill is a very limiting factor.
For the first 10 minutes of the video I thought this was a Regulator.
Bruv
How
Appreciating the plug for Honeybadgers and alkalines. I've been recommending them over 14500 IMRs and IFRs for an odd two years by now, and it's true that they get a respectable performance increase (they already run faster than necessary for most flywheel set-ups on 2S, Honeybadgers on 6V or even 4.8V after being discharged a bit will still be a decent step above stock.
That said, this series is covering some new ground, and in the best way. Apart from entertainment value, it's providing a platform for education I can't complain about.
Wow, this looks almost exactly like the modulus I just modded with M2.0s and worker wheels :D Nice work!
Our nerf wars have a 130 FPS cap due to our facility, and for that FPS cap, the setup I recommend for maximum FPS, spin up, and accuracy is an OFP aurora cage, Fangs ReVAMPed, and Blasterparts flywheels. It get's about 125 FPS, and the accuracy and spin up are excellent besides that, it isn't terribly expensive, less than $50.
$50 assuming you have a LiPo, LiPo charger, and all the tools necessary to rewire a blaster. OR know someone who does. ;)
@@CaptainXavier Absolutely right! Forgot to mention that.... Soldering isn't that hard though, once you get into it.
We call that “magic smoke” in the biz.... Never, I mean never ever let out the magic smoke!
Just thought I should clarify something. The Out of Darts wheels are the Insutantos, while the other ones by Containment Crew with the cyclone art on them are, well, Cyclones.
Also now that I know Valkyries and Insutantos work on 43mm cages, I should probably take a look at my valkyries...they may not be in the best of shape...
I own 6 Core ECS-10s. Two are aesthetic mods only, for LARP. one will be dual stage (Dual krakens, high crush worker wheels. The Thingiverse cage is 41.5mm) One will be Krakens with a 42.5mm cage, and one will be Fang Revamps with a 43mm cage. Hoping for over 170fps with the dual stage, and should be happy with the single stages. Very timely video for me.
A heads up, single stage Daybreak wheels on 40.5mm or 40mm should get you over 170fps. In my Demolisher with Daybreaks/Krakens/41mm cage I'm hitting about 154-160fps avg with some peaks up to 173fps. As a bonus, Daybreaks are super easy on the darts and I've seen barely any wear on them.
Man I picked this up for cheap a month ago and now I know what can be done to it. Thank you kind sir !!!
Read Description! Big b0ss Man no joking when he say "Those who ask why will be snarked. ;P"
I've got an ECS-10 in my "to do" list, as a step-up from Stryfes (got 2 to do, so should be good practice for the ECS-10)
FIrst Stryfe will have a Worker aluminium cage, flywheels and 130 motors. My second Stryfe will have a Worker clear cage, a pair of Krakens, and Bulldog wheels. Both running on 2s Lipos.
Thanks for this video Captain, as it gives me the push to get these flywheel blasters done - always been apprehensive about electronics before (I'm more mechanically minded, so prefer working on springers).
lastly, i dont mean to double comment and clog a thread but as a big fan of this particular blaster, it has a few really big plusses in my book now that the line is a bit older
.) the amount of useable attachments color coded to it has grown. including the customizer pack stock, rail mounted magwell, tri strike stock and barrel, and rail barrel from the ultimate customizer pack
.) it already has a rifle feel and proper length. you dont need to add anything more than a stock and youve got a comfortable longarm
.) the added tac rails. the modulus has the most rails of any blaster as far as i know. its designed to be what i feel both the auxiliary and the captain himself strives for, modular. yes there exists third party parts to put onto a stryfe but for those not wanting to buy third party parts, still wanting the extra functionality and keeping it with a toy appearance, the ecs-10 has the space to do so. i can put the tri strike stock and/or barrel on and tackle special infected, i can use the chrono barrel and the third party modulus knock off scope that was made into a blue flashlight for everything else. i can keep up to 5 magazines all drawable on the blaster itself and keep a ogofy scope on it all with first party materials or cheap clones of first party materials with the sheer volume of attachment options and ways to store ammo for them
.) it fires in the way the aux battle rifle should, semi automatic, flywheel fire.
.) the internal shell space is perfect for ghost mods if you dont want to make the blaster look different or that different. dont need moto covers for 130s running for HvZ, dont need a battery door at all since the battery placement is so good, dont even need too much modding for duel stage if one wanted, its all available in the shell space already given.
my squad uses these as standard medium infantry rifles along with the mediator for light infantry and regulator for heavy infantry.
If you're nervous or reluctant to go to lipo, you can go with the janky but much safer route of just adding more regular batteries to increase voltage. It's harder on smaller blasters but for something like the modulus it shouldn't be a problem
Bulldogs are a great pair of wheels! I have them in my rayven along with a 42 mm ofp cage and fang revamps and they are great
I've learned that modding a Modulus is great fun, but i've also learned that your Eir should be broken.
(that thing is so complicated) your awesome (captain, Xavier, bro, idk what to call you, but your awesome) great content btw.
Very interesting, enjoyed listening, I just thrifted one, won't wire it but will cosmod and paint
I absolutely LOVE your videos keep doing what you're doing
Me too
Im not sure who posted it but there is a video which shows the rapidstrike full auto gear box fitting well in the modulus
I remember getting the ecs-10 for Christmas when i was like seven and put the stock over my shoulder aaahhh! good times!
I personally think petrol powered leaf blowers are probably a better investment found one for 31dollars on Ebay. The wind travels at 251mph which is 368fps. Hook that bad boy up to a proton pack and a proper barrel and you have something truly terrifying.
Perfect time for me to find this. Got one from goodwill with completely busted and corroded battery tray. I have never modded a fly wheeler before so hopefully I succeed.
I rewired it and put in a lipo and it worked! :D
I just screwed mine open. ripped the electronics, kept al the important stuff. Used stuff i had lying around(wires, soldering iron), ripped a lego technic 6 pcs battery pack to pieces and moddified it to take electrical wire put i back together and its a 9 volt, hardhitting gun. The downside is that it jams a lot (2 or 3 times per mag). But for the rest im happy and i spent nothing on it
I have a ton of big 3S lipo batteries from the RC hobby, and a 30 minute dual charger just lying around lol
Technical quibble: Motor braking is just shorting the motors onto themselves and the battery does not participate in this process. It takes the voltage produced by the coasting motors (because a coasting motor is essentally a generator) and runs it back into the motor backwards thus driving the motor backwards until it stops. it is somewhat harder on the motors in that the waste motion of the motors coasting down is being converted into heat in the braking process, but battery life should not be affected. Regards.
I use normal AA Batteries but in a Battery Tray with 8 in series. The drawback is that it has to fit in the Blaster (i have them in the Hyperfire)
Modulus may have won because that is blaster is like a stryfe but can be found very cheap these days
Ryan Engelstad I got mine at retail when it came out.😭
@@thepugchugzchannel4511 gigity
But stryfe still have more kits and smaller :)
The category is gaming wow that makes sense
Me and a friend are currently modding a modulus (we've taken a small break from it atm). We left the bottom in the battery tray and put velcro on it and the lipo so the lipo isn't loose inside. I do believe it is a 3s lipo.
My modulus is a 4 stage but I extended it with a second modulus. I flipped the scope riser around on the second one and integrated it as a full carry handle.
The modulus was the first blaster i modified, just a rewire.it was fun all the same tho and i learned a lot
Hey i realized you haven’t made this series since last year. Did you end it? It’s a really cool series and this can help more people get into nerf because maybe some guy down the street doesn’t know how to mod. Please continue K26 and beyond
He is doing can it take a k26
Jack Johnson ok I didn’t know thanks
@@clone734 that ok
Jack Johnson ok
5:56 when I heard that I said “oh shit!” Honestly that’s really bad, I wasn’t planning on doing that battery contraption thing anyways.
I've got another little project going to see if I can get a solenoid driven pusher using a rack/pinion setup to double the throw of the solenoid. I'm guessing that will need to be 3s.
Probably
Do you feel it is necessary and cost effective to upgrade the flywheels and their cage upon upgrading the motor? I feel it won't change that much seeing as you already have faster spinning flywheels, the only benefit being the crush.
A lot of stock cages won't properly hold aftermarket motors. Sometimes you can get the mounting straps to work, but it's much better to use a cage that you can securely mount the motors in. Aside from that, up to a point higher crush definitely boosts performance more than just increasing speed will. Increasing speed without putting more pressure on the dart will cause you more slippage which alongside not performing can cause more burn on the darts than having proper grip will. You can somewhat get around this if you're using wheels that are bigger around since that's *effectively* increasing the crush.
Necessary? No. Does it greatly improve performance? Yes.
Me om
Hey cap, kinda strange question but do you prefer graph paper or binder paper?
Graph paper is I am graphing, binder paper if I am writing.
LiFePO4 batteries
how do these new kinds of batteries measure up?
Supposedly they're very safe about over discharging
but I dunno about the current requirements
now that this has been out a while, i would suggest the ultimate customizer pack stock for its rail and adjustability. as far as a barrel, the chronobarrel unless you need special ammo in which case, teh tri strike barrel absolutely.
I have got great numbers with the Spinsanity on 4 imrs, 120 plus fps. I do like how fast Lipo spins up over imrs tho.
It's all in the current. Voltage alone is not enough, you need current also. :)
I think I got this from good will.
You got probably half your collection from good will
What happend to this series? Really was looking forward to watching a ton of these videos
It will be back...eventually. I went and moved. Made it hard to do long complicated videos like these.
I was considering getting imr’s but you convinced me not to. Thank you for helping me not burn my house lol
I have an ECS-10. Gonna try to upgrade. First flywheeler to mod.
now days lipos are more cheaper these days
get a 3s lipo on ebay for $30 aud
i dont trust those battery things they seem sketchy better to just find a cheap but safe lipo
I'm building my own full auto conversion and installing a 2s2p 18650 pack using the stock motors on my modulus ecs10. I'm not looking for huge fps gains, just a nice little bump. and my rate of fire should be around 4-6 shots per second. I'll see if the fps drops too far or not. I'm also replacing the battery cover with a double barrel aux blaster that ties into the rail so that it is quickly removable for charging the battery. Should be a fun little blaster afterwards.
I finished it th-cam.com/video/ibRxqq9fna8/w-d-xo.html
Updated with some Rhinos and back to the rack and pinion pusher. th-cam.com/video/-4lNwm7Cbsk/w-d-xo.html
Am happy you addressed the battery issue. As I’m a noob in this - the IMR type batteries seem very dangerous. My thought was first rechargeable AA form factor ala the Panasonic Eneloops - this product:
• Increased power for high-drain devices
• Rechargeable up to 2,100x
• Retains 65%-70% capacity after 5 years
• No memory effect
• Can be charged when partially drained
• Functions down to -4deg F
AKA IKEA’s Ladda batteries ?
Wouldn’t they been safer than LiPo?
Since they're NiMH type batteries, they are *potentially* safer than any Lithium batteries by merit of being much more tolerant to abuse and reacting much more weakly when they hit their breaking point. Using these in the stock battery tray will work and should get you greater overall performance than Alkaline AAs would, if you're wanting something to use without rewiring. Something you could do is get a "4AA" NiMH pack that would fit into the battery tray with a little trimming, and has a plug on it so you can rewire your blaster to skip the tray and just plug in.
donutcat nerf - what about AA sized Lithium Ion batteries?
@@StSparky IMRs *are* a type of Li-Ion AA cells. There are other types, IFR and ICR I believe, but IMR are the most powerful versions and still cause problems in our use cases. NiMH are the safest option that isn't stock Alkalines.
you know if you whip out your soldering iron and a bit of wire you can redo the battery connection to use all 4 of the batteries, 2s2p for added capacity
An old video, I know, but I'd love to see an update on your Modulus. Did it get a paint job and the flared magwell? Did you leave it at 3s or did you change out the setup altogether? I agree it's a cool shell, and because of this video, I made one for myself. There's not a whole lot that feel like this blaster. Needless to say, this is one of my favorites, so I'd love to see where it ended up! Thanks, Cap!
My click was faster than your rival minigun
he way I learned was going too underwater robotics where we had to build our own robots that can go under water
Hmm... Stryfe Full Auto kits don't fit, but do regular Stryfe pushers, the Semi Auto kind fit? Worker's hybrid pusher seems like something I might try if so, makes it so I don't have to be picky with darts/mags.
With enough epoxy anything is possible.
Captain, if you go goodwill hunting again can you pick up the varients of the auto tommy 20. Please
Love what you do
Hi, cap, I know, old video, but do you remember what crush did the cage with Kraken have? I'm looking for the same config, and can't decide between 41.5 vs 42mm
Not a clue. But almost certainly whatever the max is. 42? 43? I almost never build high crush blasters.
Love it!!! Let's see a big zz bee cyclonic?!
I know this video is way old but have you ever thought of doing a full auto modulus build?
I have not, no.
U should do a season called can it take a lipo with flywheel blasters
...what would be the point of that? All flywheel blasters can if you replace the internals.
They all can't unless you rewire it. They are designed to take normal batteries. If Captain Xavier does can it take IMRs in stock form, than that's something.
@@benabad4186 actually 2s LiPos are only 7.4v (the same as 2 IMRs) so it is not that much of a boost and probably wouldn't damage the system too fast. 3s is 11.1v (the same as 3 IMRs) and will fry the system.
I have numerous 2s R.C. lipos of different sizes that I use in my blasters. All I do is upgrade the wiring keep the stock switches and use a quality battery connector. My modulus ecs 10 and stryfes all operate just fine. Performance for me is noticeably better. I even put a 2s lipo in my nemesis with no upgrades at all besides a quality battery connector.
I came here so quick it looks like he recorded it with a nerf cam-ecs
Hey since I see you’re still answering questions will a full auto stryfe kit fit into a doomlands desolator since they are identical internally
They are not even remotely identical internally. They use a very similar mechanism but the parts and internal dimensions are not identical. So no, the full auto kit will not just drop in.
@@CaptainXavier oh I didn’t know that. As you can see I’m a beginner and quite confused abt stuff. Do you know of any kits for the desolator though?
Any plans on showing off this with paint/3d printed goodies?
Yes
if youre looking into full auto kits, i would love to see a demolisher full auto
that thing is the Bolter already by looks even if you take out the "Demo" part of it
Thanks for this great video! Bangarang
Most of these should work for a demolisher as well, which is probably won.
Yep, down to the cage being just about the same aside from a couple of supports needing clearance. The main issue with the Demolisher is that you have to cut the shell even for 130 sized motors unless you use the stock cage and wheels. Additionally, it's slightly harder to fit a LiPo in the stock battery tray since it's a 4x1 square instead of a 2x2 rectangle like lots of other blasters, and the battery tray is on the opposite side of the shell from the other components. Overall it just tends to be more involved than some other blasters due to little things that need to be taken care of.
I cant wait to start modding mine tbh. Any idea on when we get the next episode though?
Could Meishel 2.0 motors run of of 4 aa alkaline im asking becuase honey badgers are out of stock now
No
@@CaptainXavier i was looking at out of darts website and it looks like the honey badger motors cant run off of 4 alkaline can you conform this
@@bluebear121 they can, just not as well as something better. They will also drain them very fast.
When you think about it even as a money saver IMR/IFR's fall short. 6 to 12 dollars every few months depending on how active you are will pretty quickly jump up to $150-$200 for accidental arson device that WILL break on you. Compare that to $120 at most for a blaster you can rely on and won't kill you AND you've learned _two_ new skills. It stops looking like a choice really.
As Vimes would say, it is expensive to be poor.
i have got a dead one and i have rc cars with full size 2s lipos and the tools need i will probally do this mod
I'd love to see a mod guide or something of that nature for the halo ar that came out to advise halo infinite. I'd love to be able to use that more like an actual ar.
Hi Captain Xavier I love your videos
Post a video on whatever you end up doing with this. It's my favorite rifle body style blaster.
I'd like to see the Incisor have a mod guide. It didn't get much love because stock it jammed a little too much. But I have a feeln a 2s upgrade would fix the slow rev of the flywheels that causes said jamming.
You'll do basically the same thing for wiring. Positive from battery to rev switch to motors, negative from motors to battery. The stock has a lot of internal space and the AA battery tray is a separate piece you can just lift out to have much more space with no cutting. There is one more lock than normal that tries to make sure you get a full pull on the trigger to rotate the turret, but in my experience they wear out and get stuck.
I got gnomed today, this put me in a better mood. Thank you.
Gnomed?
I dunno, just something that can make you annoyed. I saw something I thought was a new episode of my favorite show and it turned out to be this dumb gnome thing
I see. "Gnomed" means something ENTIRELY different to me. :P
Oh, well darn. Thanks for replying though, it made my day even better!
I love the ecs10. Mine is full auto. I have a firing demo video up. It’s had more work since
can you please discuss Li-ion batteries at some point? i had my electrical engineer brother in law helping me with a blaster mod, and he picked them out for a power source (Tenergy brand, fang r motors). other more experienced nerfers ive talked to have responded warily of them. i am far from being well versed enough in electronics (like at all) to know their pros and cons.
..I already have. Did a whole video on them. ...it is also what the first 8 minutes of this video covers. IMRs and IFRs ARE Li-ion batteries. So are LiPos...
Can you please post a link to the micro switch you used. All the switches I have used do not fit into the handle well with wires.
outofdarts.com/collections/electronics/products/10a-microswitch-cherry-db2-with-lever
@@CaptainXavier thank you Captain.
Hey capt. I do have IMRs and use them in a stryfe, but I have rewired the blaster with 18 gauge wire and new switches and better motors from worker. And I also purchased a metal cage, is my current setup still dangerous? Also one reason why I have upgraded everything but the most important part, the batteries, is because I don’t play with others almost at all and rarely ever play with my blasters that I’ve modded after the fact. So I feel like investing into Lipos just isn’t worth it.
Using aftermarket motors is actually about the worst thing you can do with IMRs or other Lithium based AA/14500 sized cells. Aftermarket motors will almost always try to draw more current from batteries, especially without the restrictions of the stock wiring. This higher draw *will* overdraw these inadequate batteries and may cause them to fail catastrophically. If you are set on using the stock battery tray, which itself is poor quality for conductivity, then I would suggest NiMH batteries such as Eneloops as a much safer option. They're lower voltage than Lithium cells, but they can handle the current much better and if they fail they will not react nearly as violently. You could also use a more capable NiMH pack for cheaper than a LiPo setup since they can use a cheaper "dumb" charger.
donutcat nerf got it, thx, can u buy it on amazon
@@thenerfbeaver6482 Yes, Eneloops and other AA sized NiMH batteries, or a sealed pack that should be able to fit into the Stryfe tray with a little trimming and a plug rewire.
I think your the better Nerf moder
@ Captain x what about the brushless set up for this blaster files are on thingiverse as well... just thought you might would want to go over kill with it .. great video
Someday I may look into brushless setups...not there yet
what are the cages that you are using?
Link please thx.
openflywheelproject.com/
Hey Captain, great and informative video as ever. Just a quick question. You mentioned Volt meters at the end and I do intend to use one. But I don't know where it would fit in the wiring plan. Will you be covering that in your next flywheel mod video?
Doesn't it plug directly into the battery mate? Not the XT60 part, but the smaller plug on a LiPO
I already have a video on Voltmeters. Go watch it. :)
smh HOW IS THIS GUY NOT FAMOUSSSSSSSSSSSS REEEEEEEEEEE
Question: What's the likely outcome if you do a half way solution: rewire the blaster, get newer motors but still use IFR/IMRs?
The same outcome you usually get with halfway solutions. A poorly functioning waste of time and money. Do it right or don't do it at all.
The only upgrade motors that will work with IMRs are Honey Badgers and even they don't work well with them. Switching to LiPo is faster, safer, cheaper, and yields far better results.
@@CaptainXavier That's fair. Thanks for the answer.
A 3s lipo is just a k26 for flywheelers
with type of 2S lipo battery do i need for those hone badger motors
What type? I'm curious what do you think the options are...
Anything sold by OutofDarts.com will work. They key is to have a Dec capacity and C-rating.
@@CaptainXavier thanks it would be my first mod so I’m a little worried
@@CaptainXavier if i use a stock modulus with accustrike darts and change the pusher for short using a 15 round talon mag with flywheel adapter with worker gen 3 short darts will that change the FPS much
I have no idea. Probably?
@@CaptainXavier when I have it running I’ll let you know
What’s funny is that I was looking for this a day ago and it just pops on like, wot