Yeh, a few things online mentioned that and thought that too until I tested them with a volt meter when things went a bit strange with the electrics. My van must be a ‘Friday Ford’! Haha
Simple test for that, disconnect the rear battery and see if the van starts but could be arranged differently if it’s a 2.2 because I drive a 2.4 and aux battery is too the rear. Good video and it’s a very good system imo because I’ve a bad aux battery and one of the cold mornings I opened the rear of the van and that was enough to kill the battery and the key doesn’t work so I couldn’t get into the van or open the bonnet so I had to put power to the interior light inside the rear with a drill battery and a bit of two core and hit the central locking and the van opened and started no problem on the primary battery, moral of the story as long as you can manually work the locks and have a good starting battery you can do what you want with the aux battery and the van will always start
what i found in mine. 1, if i remove the fron one.. the back is enough to work everything alone. 2, i can turn on the radio even when the keys are not in when the front battery is on 3, the the customer port 1,2, and 3 only gets power if the front battery is connected (or i connect the dront battery lead to the back battery)
Great video! After reading all the comments I’m still none the wiser of which battery of mine is which, could you explain or if you have time do a video of how you tested it. I’m in the process of fitting a diesel heater but I have only just realised my van doesn’t have a leisure battery or split charged so I’m guessing I will have to fit one of those first Thanks Garry
@Thegarryveitch Simply disconnect both batteries and using a multimeter, one by one test continuity between the positive lead and ground with the ignition switch on and off.
There seems to be a bit of variation between years. My van is on the crossover between MK6 &7. I believe that the electrics are from MK6 as is the gearbox. That’s interesting about the batteries. What was the safety angle? I know that the Calcium ones don’t gas as much if overheat.
Appreciate it, was trying to jump start off a transit and was scratching my “heed”. Cheers from Ireland
Hi mate, I think the auxiliary battery is at the front and starter battery at the rear. It is in my 2012 mk7 with dual batteries.
Yeh, a few things online mentioned that and thought that too until I tested them with a volt meter when things went a bit strange with the electrics. My van must be a ‘Friday Ford’! Haha
Simple test for that, disconnect the rear battery and see if the van starts but could be arranged differently if it’s a 2.2 because I drive a 2.4 and aux battery is too the rear. Good video and it’s a very good system imo because I’ve a bad aux battery and one of the cold mornings I opened the rear of the van and that was enough to kill the battery and the key doesn’t work so I couldn’t get into the van or open the bonnet so I had to put power to the interior light inside the rear with a drill battery and a bit of two core and hit the central locking and the van opened and started no problem on the primary battery, moral of the story as long as you can manually work the locks and have a good starting battery you can do what you want with the aux battery and the van will always start
I read that Ford changed the battery set up around on the series 7 it’s the front battery that’s the main one and the back one on series 8.
what i found in mine.
1, if i remove the fron one.. the back is enough to work everything alone.
2, i can turn on the radio even when the keys are not in when the front battery is on
3, the the customer port 1,2, and 3 only gets power if the front battery is connected (or i connect the dront battery lead to the back battery)
Great video!
After reading all the comments I’m still none the wiser of which battery of mine is which, could you explain or if you have time do a video of how you tested it.
I’m in the process of fitting a diesel heater but I have only just realised my van doesn’t have a leisure battery or split charged so I’m guessing I will have to fit one of those first
Thanks Garry
@Thegarryveitch Simply disconnect both batteries and using a multimeter, one by one test continuity between the positive lead and ground with the ignition switch on and off.
The aux battery is the front battery not the rear one
The rear one on my van. I believe that there are variations here and there. 👍
Auxillary battery towards the front on my 2012.I thought they had to be calcium batteries for safety reasons?
There seems to be a bit of variation between years. My van is on the crossover between MK6 &7. I believe that the electrics are from MK6 as is the gearbox. That’s interesting about the batteries. What was the safety angle? I know that the Calcium ones don’t gas as much if overheat.