Thank you for the wonderful informative video. Very impressive to watch an actual Hunter Tech explain the technology behind the Hunter RoadForce machines. I only have my tires balanced that way for years.
I replaced hundred of tyres in my cars in the past 20 years, and it was few times I got luck to have perfect tyres, most of them weren’t. I tried top brands like Pirelli, Continental, Bridgestone, Goodyear, Dunlop, Hankook, Toyo, Yokohama and Cooper and only three Pirelli, Bridgestone and Yokohama were less prone to vibrations. You have to keep in mind that the way they store the tyres, will play a vital role in causing the tyre to vibrate and unfortunately no many shops pay good attention to storing tyres properly. Many occasions they found the tyres were defective and they had to replace them even though they were fitted brand new.
It fixed my issue. At around 140-150 kmh, I had this pulsation, vibration not big enough to make my watch rattle, but enough to be annoying. I felt it in the steering wheels, in the pedals and in the seat. At the tire shop, all BUT ONE wheel were ok, just needed to be balanced the traditional way. But ONE wheel needed the tire to be placed in a different position on the rim. That did it, I took the car on the highway right after that and the problem disappeared. Marvelous machine !!!!!
We have two Road Force balancers at the Firestone where I work. We rarely ever get to use the Road Force feature of the machine because it’s broken 80% of the time. We get it repaired, it “breaks” again. The factory rep has confirmed that we ARE using it correctly. We have two of these balancers and they are both broken constantly.
@@stargazer2504 Nope. It's the same price Road Force Balanced or regular. Neither the machine nor we at the counter care. It's the same price either way. It's only, like a 15 second run time difference between the two.
@@maxwebster7572 The charge for normal balancing and Road Force balancing is the same. And, as I stated, our Road force machine is down 80 percent of the time anyway due to calibration issues that cause imbalance. It's a shit system.
@@NorthernChev Yes it is a shit system, buddy had '24 Ram balanced at Chrysler 4 times before he took to tire shop. They asked if he had Road Force and then proceeded to take 4oz of the new wheel. Same dealer installed a new diff and box for vibration. You could see the box move in the side mirrors. That one was bad driveshaft. It's a small town, we all know not to go there now.
Could not agree more and have come to the conclusion the tech simply do not know how to run a balancer. I ended up buying a brand new cheap Weaver China balancer for around $1000.00 and have had awesome results that the shops could not achieve with their $25,000 dollar balancers. Its the operator.
Wheel lift, laser guided weight placement, no input for dimensions all make the balancer more resistant to lazy/rushed/inexperienced technicians. That being said there is no perfect solution for a tire tech that still won't perform their job properly. Like a tire that won't ride smooth regardless of what techniques are used for it. Sometimes it just needs replaced.
The fact that the tire installers don't know what the red or yellow dots on the tires mean or where they belong in relation to the rim's high spot or the tire valve means they did not put the tires on properly to begin with.
An egg shaped tire won't be detected by most tire shops. I jacked up the car so the tire just cleared the pavement, then I rotated the wheel and found the tire was 1/4 inch out of round. The manufacturer fully refunded the tire's cost, even after 6,700 miles use - no argument - no fuss.
My stepfathers tires were giving his car some slightly noticeable vibration. I checked them individually on a spin balancer where I worked for a major tire distributor. They all indicated they were properly balanced. So I put a spacer on the ground below the tires while spinning on the spin balancer and discovered that the tires were manufactured out of round by almost one fourth of an inch ! 😮 So he bought 4 new balancrd tires ; had them installed and the slight vibration he usrd to experience was gone !😊
Tire installer balance is only tire and rim. Sometimes hub assembly is a bit off balance. Tire can be out of round. Rim can have excessive runout from curb strikes. Had a bad vibration at speed, thought it was CV axle. It turned out to be failed motor mounts. Check those FWD motor mounts as soft rubber is not forever.
A large percentage of tires are not round! Wife's uncle had a tire shop in Glendale, AZ for many years. He specialized in Tire Truing, aka shaving. He did many hundreds in the day. Unfortunately he's gone now. Tire Truing is an intensive process that works great! Sadly, it's a lost art. Might be able to find a racer that will begrudgingly do it. I had cheap, mud/snow tires on my 77 4x4. They were bad on the highway! He trued them, they were smooth as could be! Had this done to some other name brand tires that were troublesome to balance, works like magic.
Thank you for this video. My 2000 SL500 has been driving me NUTS with a vibration on the highway. I’ve been so NUTS that I wanted to punt this vehicle. I am now going to seek an Elite Hunter Balance shop. Many, many thanks. I’ll report back if I have success. Thank you..!!
Tires come from the manufacturer with marks on them, most tire shops just ignore those marks because they have no clue what they're for, it's the balance of the tire itself, which is supposed to balanced with your rim to get everything as perfectly centered as possible. Otherwise it's like having an unbalanced load in the washer.
I've owned 4 different vehicles over 20+ years of driving and had numerous sets of tire replacements, alignments, and wheel balance (including Road Force balancing that one shop offered). Most of my vehicles would develop shaking as they aged and the balancings and other services didn't seem to help. I replaced numerous components from brakes to CV axles to suspension arms and bushings and engine/trans mounts. What finally fixed the shaking was to clean off the thin film of rust from the mating face of the wheel that had transferred from the brake rotors and drums. NONE of the shops I had ever taken a vehicle to had done this.
I have a Kenworth that has seen over a million miles in its life. It would have a vibration at 55mph and it never went away. Because this truck went everywhere on the highways, I had tires of different manufacture, ie. Toyo, Michelin, Goodyear, Firestone etc. installed in different locations and balanced. I had the truck in the shop countless times and everything was checked and parts replaced. Nothing worked. After years of this, I decided to replace the wheels and like something magical, the vibration disappeared. Some things are just faulty and just because they are new and machined, doesn't mean they are perfect.
I've also had highway speed vibration when I had a partially torn lower control arm bushing. It wasn't visible until I uninstalled the control arm. A new control arm solved the problem. With it just being partially torn, there were no other indications other than the highway vibration that felt just like an out of balance tire.
I prefer to use Centramatic balancers. They are mostly for trucks of all sizes. But I am getting them for my Jeeps. They work really well on my wife's 2018 Ram 2500 4wd with that beastly 6.7L Cummins. Even before we put the 4Wheel Camper on. The centramatics give the tires a nice ride and smooths out tire wear.
Because back in the 60's and earlier, tire shops had a tire shaving machine. Balancing really means nothing in how a car rides. It's how round the tire is that matters.
I believed "road force" balancing was like nitrogen air filled tires, a scam. I was was wrong. Absolute night and day difference, and didn't cost an arm and a leg. The next time I got tires, it was from a place that did "road force" balancing. I'll never go back to regular balancing.
I kinda is a scam. In order to make a non-concentric tire work, you need a rim that is slightly bent. That machine and 3x the labor indexes the high spot of the tire to the low spot of the bent rim and hopes to cancel out as much as possible. The correct way to do it, is to shave the tire/rim assembly round. But hardly anybody (other than me) has the machine to do it.
Had this happen to me with a chrysler 200 that was riding perfect until my first rotation and balance. From that point on had had vibration in the rear of the car, I moved the tires around and the vibrations moved. I went to five shops with road force balancers, some would get it better, but issue never went away. I ended up dumping the car after two years of frustrations.
Wish you, the broadcaster would’ve given the name and location of this store and owner. Why? I would like to have gone to his shop to purchase Tires for my vehicles. Well glad you did include the owner and how to find a shop like the one in this broadcast. Thank you. 😃👍❤
You can have balance issues of using lubricates on the bead of the tires to ease the tire to be replaced. The only thing is some lubricants don't dry off and can cause the tire to spin on the rim causing tire vibration issues. If you want to see if that is happening, make a make on the rim and on the tire after replacement. If the marks are not aligned anymore after using the tires and vibration, then there is issue of lubricant on the bead of the tire and should be cleaned of lubricant.
30 years ago where I worked if the tire needed a lot of weight we broke the tire down turned it half a turn and it would usually cut the needed weight down, I seen '' 1 time '' a tire needing 0 weight after just turning the tire,
I used to do that all the time when I was a motorcycle tech. I'd balance the bare rim and find the heavy spot first. Then mount the tire without beading it and put it back on the balancer. I'd put the two heavy spots opposite of each other, then bead it up. Most of the time it took zero weight or very very little.
It's because the quality today wouldn't even make it out of the plant 30 to 40 years ago. It's saying instead of the center of the rim being center of the tire isn't matching
Also probably not comon on a new tire but i didnt realize they had belt in them so if a belt inside the tire breaks you may not see it with the naked eye but it essentially is now a flat spot in the tire.
I bought some BFG KO's for my 2007 Dodge Ram. 285-75-17. One size up on stock forged Ram wheels. Immediately I notice highway vibes. Discount rebalanced them to no avail. I personally witnessed them zero'd out too. Next they Road Force balanced them and same deal highway vibes. I asked the manager to take a drive with me and he refused referring me to BFG. BFG refused to intervene saying it was Discount's responsibility. Frustrated I replaced the tires with Toyo's. Silky smooth at 80 mph. I've yet in all these years have a bad Toyo tire. I know one slips through but my with experience and my other full size truck buddies won't run anything else. I've got some Cooper's on my 2005 Honda Pilot and they've never been as smooth as Michelins or Toyos.
The trick is to shave tires perfectly round after mounting them on the rim. Balance weights really mean nothing if your tire isn't round. Bad part is tire shaving is a lost art, but people will pay HUGE money (and do 3X the labor) for road force. And, like dude said, if your rim isn't bent, it doesn't work.
Twisted Belts in the tire during manufacturing. Also you can spin balance your rims without a tire and see if the rims are actually true. I started spinning tires in 82 so nothing really has changed.
My problem. I bought aftermarket rims and one barrel is quite literally not centered on the spokes. It’s not actually possible to get rid of the vibration. Bummer. No warranty either.
Just got a set of Good Year Assurance replaced. Out of round. Maybe bad belts. Good Year-no warranty. But extra road hazard warranty covered it. About half the cost of new set with lifetime balance and road hazard warranty.
Nope. If I have an out of round tire I am simply getting an on the vehicle truing done. The tire is spun, on vehicle, like a lathe and the tread is shaved until it is perfectly round. Used to do all heavy trucks this way and now they do passenger tires as well. Shave it, balance it... done.😊
You didn't mention the idiots at the tire stores that mount directional tires backwards. I bought a used car that had a vibration in the steering wheel. Twice I had the balance checked and all my tires were good. The third tire shop took one look at my car and spotted the backwards mounted tires. Once that problem was corrected the vibration was gone.
I broke a band in my tire. The rear of car was really bumpy. I thought strut or the springs. Luck man friend was honest. Shady place really could of put it to me
I went through this problem many years ago. New tires that had a high speed shake. Had the wheels and tires balanced three times at three different shops and still happened. Isolated the problem down to two tires so put those two on the rear axle and it still happened. I then replaced the wheels and it still happened. Replaced the tires with the same type and brand. Still happened. Finally replaced the two tires with more expensive tires. Problem solved.
Hunter wheel balancer is only half of the fix, you have to know if your wheels are hub centric or non-hub/lug centric, and find a shop that knows if they need to use a special adapter to balance your wheels. I had a 97 Toyota 4runner and Toyota SUV wheels were known for hard to balance because back then most shops had no concept of this hub centric and lug centric wheels. After some research, I found a shop that were using the Hunter 9000 and the special Haweka Adapter to finally get rid of the vibration. I don't know if Toyota wheels are still hard to balance now or Hunter balancers have this adapter built-in now. That was 20+ yrs ago.
Sie haben ja Recht mit Naben zentriert oder Lochkreis zentriert ... grins Die Hunter Road Force Elite (3te Generation) mißt ++unter anderem++ die Zentrierung automatisch (= Automatic CenteringCheck = Garantiert richtige Zentrierung und verhindert Aufspannfehler) Tip = weiterbilden (Webseite Hunter Engineering dann lesen lesen und denken, evt PDF lese, Messebesuch, Vertreter einmal zuhören, an Vorführungen teilnehmen) Hinweis = 120 Softwareprogrammierer beschäftigt Hunter (auch mit Studium , aka die haben etwas mehr gelernt als man vermuten kann). Die Maschine hat einige Laser und so komische Kameras. Die Software erstellt nicht nur ein 3D-Abbild des Felgenprofils innen und berechnet (nach Auswahl der Position der Anbringung der Wuchtgewichte) diese dann natürlich passend zur Entfernung zum Radmittelpunkt mit korregierten Gewicht ... ... sondern die 3D-Konturenberechnung stellt automatisch Rundlauffehler, Seitenschlag fest. Anmerkung = Soweit ich mich an die werblichen Aussagen erinnere.
I wish Hunter would come to Australia and teach the tyre how to do the tyre balaceing the tyre and how to do wheel alignment and make them to be better trades people
My Sierra keeps throwing weights. It also keeps getting out of alignment. I have the lifetime balance/rotation as well as lifetime alignment from Pep Boys, and even though it doesn't cost me money every time I take it there, it still takes time. What would you suggest? I have regular highway, truck tires, not offroad/rough terrain treads, and it is a RWD 1500 2010 YM. All tie rod ends are new, as well as both side upper/lower ball joints and all four have new brakes. I just can't get rid of the vibrations and running out of alignment.
First get a alignment result before and after. Next look for where the out of alignment is. Is it just on the front, the back or just one wheel - narrow it down and then focus attention there. Check bearings, bushings or even the drive shaft, it could have lost the factory weight or the u joint is bad. Can they put stick on weights on? If nothing can be found take it to another shop and get a fresh set of eyes on it.
Find someone with a tire shaving machine that can make your tires actually round. Wheels weights really don't do much at all when it comes to the actual ride. But having round concentric wheel/tires really do.
Some tires it's where they spliced the tread. One set of Winterforce tires I had them rebalanced them 14 times in 12 months. Finally the shop took them back and put Toyo tires on my truck and the shaking went away. But the truck ate 8 wheel bearing in 4 years. Because of the tires. Sold the Avalanche and bought a Silverado 14, and drove it 6 years on one set of tires and no wheel bearing. But the first set I bought made in Vietnam bounced like a basketball. I drove them twice and made them put the used Toyo back on the truck until they could get me a set of Bridgestone Revo Tomorrow I go for new tires. Cross my fingers and toes. Kendra - Made in Vietnam
Bent rims balance, then vibrate when driven. Balancing can address the "balance" of out-of-roundness, but it cannot make a square round. "Road Force" is a name. Simply starting with round, not bent, wheels is important!! The dude getting paid to put weights on should always witness the wheel spinning, to be sure it's round first.
aligning the balance point of the tire and the balance point of the rim makes a lot of sense, but with the tire mounted on the rim, it becomes a single rotating mass, so how can the machine still tell if the heavy side of the tire and the heavy side of the rim are not aligned? It should rotate and detect an imbalance as a whole rotating mass.
The video failed to explain the concept of ROAD FORCE balance versus weight balance. Imagine as the tire rotates on the road surface, it deforms slightly under the weight of the vehicle where the tire patch meets the road surface, the degree of deformation being the result of tire flexibility and air pressure in the tire. If the tire flexibility is not uniform all around, the degree of deformation will also not be uniform. In effect the tire will have a hard spot or soft spot around the perimeter and we experience this as a bumpy tire. A common manufacturing defect that can cause this is failure to precisely apply the number of plys to the tire. If a 6-ply tire actually has 5.8 plys applied, that leaves a gap of 0,2 ply between the end of the plys and a resulting soft spot. Conversely, if the ply ends are overlapped a bit, resulting in say a 6.2 ply construction for an overlap of 0.2 ply, then a hard spot results. I had this problem on a new rear motorcycle tire that was balanced perfectly on a standard spin balancer. The fix was to replace the tire. I don't believe any 'clocking' of that tire to the wheel could have fixed the violent vertical bouncing forces I felt when hitting around 70 mph.
That's not what he was doing. He was counting on a rim being bent. That way you can put the tall part of the tire with the low part of the rim. That way they can cancel a little instead of the high spots stacking up. That's why he mentioned how a perfectly straight wheel won't help him any. The correct way to do it, is to mount the tire, then shave the assembly round. (then balance it, even though small balance weights really don't do anything when you're taking about a wheel/tire that weighs 40 to 60+ pounds)
Take them to someone who can shave them to remove the high spot. Once the tire is more symmetrical then it can be balanced. This will extend the life of the tire.
Yep. I have a tire shaving machine at my house and I've yet to see a new tire thats perfectly round. I don't use it often, but it's one of the best toys I own.
Where in this video was the runout of the wheel determined? That must be known to determine the best tire/wheel positioning. Guy asking the questions mentioned his "rims"...ugh...if it has a center, it is a wheel. Or it's hoodspeak.
When the 'roadforce' wheel on the back of the machine lays against the spinning tire while it was spinning. It identifies the high spot, then gets you to index that spot to (hopefully) a low spot on a slightly bent rim. If you get lucky, the height differences cancel out. That's why dude said a straight rim won't work. Where the correct answer is not to spend a fortune on the roadforce upgrade, and find a 60 year old tire shaving machine. Then you can just make the assembly round and be done with it.
Eggactly. Hitting a pot hole hard will cause a bulge on the tyre. Which is undetectable by eye. But free rolling the whole wheel on the flat ground will show the tyre leaning side 2 side.
If out of balances persist, technicians need to be checking to see if wheels are true on the vehicle. Chinese unbalanced brake rotors will also create an unbalance situation. By OEM rotors
Do NOT use balance beads. They cause shake especially at higher speeds...anything that moves around inside a tire will not balance it! I have removed tons of them to fix people's mistakes. It is a lot of work to remove them. I can mount and balance tires easier than having to clean up this mess....Tire shop owner.
That's not the point, the issue is tires and rims aren't perfectly round. You need to match the stiff point of the tire with the dip on the rim. So the shape with vehicle weight on it is relatively round without major radius runout.
@@yuzeyang8847 it most certainly is the only way you could stand a chance of balance on crap products you mentioned. It is continuously, and dynamically balancing with every rotation regardless of speed or tire shape.
@@scoutdogfsr again, the issue is not balancing. It's about the overall shape with load on it. You can balance a square/hexagon but it doesn't mean it will ride smoothly.
@@xtnuser5338 Well, I’ve had them balanced 5 times so I would hope they would have noticed that by now if it were a problem. Yes, other things like a dragging break will also cause vibrations as well as a bad wheel bearing, but those things are normally linear, ie the faster you go the worse they get, and my vibrations only happen around 60mph.
Not convinced. It may be usefull in some circumstances, with crap tyres and crap aftermarket rims but not worthwhile spending time on crap with an expensive machine. If the tyre runs up and down you can see it on the balancer and usually the tyre is bad, nothing wrong with the rim. If the rim is true then it does not matter how the tyre is rotated, it won't change anything. If the rim does not run true or is bent then replace it. High quality tyres run relatively true but you get the odd one slightly out, but you don't feel it if rim good. A good match balance is the way to go and a touch up balance after 5k to 10k km. The tyres do settle in a little. Soft sidewall tyres can flatspot and be problematic with balance also, one rim with a slight bend can be felt also after balancing.
A wheel that is true around the circumference can still be out of balance. Even if it's perfectly shaped and the density is constant everywhere, it still has a valve stem and the valve stem hole to account for.
A tire balance machine is only as good as the person using it. Every balancer I've ever used has had a High Accuracy (coates) or Technical (Hunter) mode that does a much better job. The operator just has to be aware or give a shit about doing a quality job. It doesn't take any longer really, just might take an extra weight or slightly more weight.
Well...to be at least partially fair to those morons...the rim IS part of the wheel. And with typical one-piece wheels, you can't get the rims and the centers separately. So if somebody says, "I'm getting new rims," then you can assume they're getting new wheels, and despite the fact that we'll cut anybody who talks like that out of our lives for good, they haven't technically said anything that's incorrect.
Interesting idea. But if you're balancing by the center hole of the wheel it's only as accurate as the center hole.. Balancing a wheel and tire assembly by the center hole is quick and easy but the way to get a proper balance is by using an adapter that attaches via the bolt holes. Also for aesthetics, shops put stick on weights inboard behind the spokes (as in this video) but to get a proper dynamic balance the weights need to be on the outermost edge of the wheel. Which isn't pretty but they don't shake when you're done.
Having personally used a wheel balancing machine, if the wheel's center hole is bent (or off in some way), you'll know it immediately. These modern wheels are CNC machined, and steel wheels are made on metal stamping presses using precision dies. Wheels are not hand made, so having a center hole that's off center is not possible. However I have seen bent center hubs.
@@komoru Well, all I can say is keep balancing tires and you'll see what I mean. Wheels are accurately machined but machines aren't always perfect. A customer that comes in with a chronic vibration (caused by the wheel/tire assembly) should have the wheels balanced by the bolt holes. I know it's not quick and easy but it's the correct way to do it.
@@callishandy8133 That's great! When the machine tells you that the assembly is off center what do you do next? (like in a situation where the center hole is malformed?)
Most of your common wheels on newer vehicles can't be balanced with the clip on weights on the outside. That's why most shops use stick ons inside the spoke, since it's the closest to outside you can get.
I have come to the conclusion that tire installers do not know how to operate a tire balancer. I gave up and bought my own balancer, a cheap Weaver China made balancer for around $1000.00 new. This solved all of my problems and proved to me the installers do not know what their doing, even using a $25.0000 dollar balancer. I would back time and time again only to have a shake in the wheel. I swear to God they just throw a wheel on the balancer any old way, they don't put in the right settings, spin it up and slap some weights on and hope. The problem is NOT the machine, its the operator.
Yes this is largely true across all of the consumer-grade, corporate chain type tire shops, staffed with kids who are just trying to make some money so they can afford a new subwoofer, where the goal is to shove a couple hundred customers per day through the process, take their money, and get rid of them. If you don't have your own balancer, and this is something you actually care about unlike most car owners, find yourself a good race shop and pay them to take the time to do the job well.
But... if the tire is defective you'll never correct that by rotating it's position on the wheel unless the rim is way out of wack too. This might make it slightly better but the only real fix is to replace the tire. Arguably, your money is better spent replacing the tire rather then repeated expensive road force balancing!
But even if you replace the tire, it still needs to be balanced. The point of this video is that given a choice between a normal balancer and a road force balancer, it's best to choose a shop with road force balancing.
Please ask the Hunter salesman or write a mail or call Hunter Hotline and ask if there 120 software developer , the laser beams and the cameras plus the 3D picture analysing ...
Any more than a road force of 11 on a car tire or more than 16 for a truck tire is too much get another tire. It wont fix it buy rotating the it on the wheel. preferred is 6 or less on a car and 9 on a truck or less
This is B.S. as mass production has nothing to do with it. Red and yellow dots on the tire need to be aligned to the wheel properly. What they didn't tell you in this video is that a bad tire with a rubber uniformity issue cannot be road forced balanced because of the tire temperature at the time of the balance say it's balanced, but if the temp chamges it's not balanced anymore. Meaning the tire is junk, get rid of it. Also they did not mention anything about tire and wheel assembly runout conditions. Another crappy video.
Thank you for the wonderful informative video. Very impressive to watch an actual Hunter Tech explain the technology behind the Hunter RoadForce machines. I only have my tires balanced that way for years.
I replaced hundred of tyres in my cars in the past 20 years, and it was few times I got luck to have perfect tyres, most of them weren’t. I tried top brands like Pirelli, Continental, Bridgestone, Goodyear, Dunlop, Hankook, Toyo, Yokohama and Cooper and only three Pirelli, Bridgestone and Yokohama were less prone to vibrations. You have to keep in mind that the way they store the tyres, will play a vital role in causing the tyre to vibrate and unfortunately no many shops pay good attention to storing tyres properly. Many occasions they found the tyres were defective and they had to replace them even though they were fitted brand new.
Lots of tire shops don't know how to clean the lens on the machine nor how to calibrate them.
It fixed my issue. At around 140-150 kmh, I had this pulsation, vibration not big enough to make my watch rattle, but enough to be annoying. I felt it in the steering wheels, in the pedals and in the seat. At the tire shop, all BUT ONE wheel were ok, just needed to be balanced the traditional way. But ONE wheel needed the tire to be placed in a different position on the rim. That did it, I took the car on the highway right after that and the problem disappeared. Marvelous machine !!!!!
We have two Road Force balancers at the Firestone where I work. We rarely ever get to use the Road Force feature of the machine because it’s broken 80% of the time. We get it repaired, it “breaks” again. The factory rep has confirmed that we ARE using it correctly. We have two of these balancers and they are both broken constantly.
$50 they still sell it as a "road force balance" at a higher price with no such work being done....
@@stargazer2504 Nope. It's the same price Road Force Balanced or regular. Neither the machine nor we at the counter care. It's the same price either way. It's only, like a 15 second run time difference between the two.
The Chrysler dealer here continually sends tires out imbalanced with Roadforce. It makes tire shops lots of $$
@@maxwebster7572 The charge for normal balancing and Road Force balancing is the same. And, as I stated, our Road force machine is down 80 percent of the time anyway due to calibration issues that cause imbalance. It's a shit system.
@@NorthernChev Yes it is a shit system, buddy had '24 Ram balanced at Chrysler 4 times before he took to tire shop. They asked if he had Road Force and then proceeded to take 4oz of the new wheel.
Same dealer installed a new diff and box for vibration. You could see the box move in the side mirrors. That one was bad driveshaft. It's a small town, we all know not to go there now.
All this technology can’t overcome lazy or rushed technician.
Especially on a 95deg day when the customer wants quick and cheap.
Could not agree more and have come to the conclusion the tech simply do not know how to run a balancer. I ended up buying a brand new cheap Weaver China balancer for around $1000.00 and have had awesome results that the shops could not achieve with their $25,000 dollar balancers. Its the operator.
Wheel lift, laser guided weight placement, no input for dimensions all make the balancer more resistant to lazy/rushed/inexperienced technicians. That being said there is no perfect solution for a tire tech that still won't perform their job properly. Like a tire that won't ride smooth regardless of what techniques are used for it. Sometimes it just needs replaced.
The fact that the tire installers don't know what the red or yellow dots on the tires mean or where they belong in relation to the rim's high spot or the tire valve means they did not put the tires on properly to begin with.
The equipment is only as good as the person using it
An egg shaped tire won't be detected by most tire shops. I jacked up the car so the tire just cleared the pavement, then I rotated the wheel and found the tire was 1/4 inch out of round. The manufacturer fully refunded the tire's cost, even after 6,700 miles use - no argument - no fuss.
100%. 2 years dealing with this and Discount Tire. Got new tires and all good! I could see the egg shape, but they thought they were perfect.
My stepfathers tires were giving his car some slightly noticeable vibration. I checked them individually on a spin balancer where I worked for a major tire distributor. They all indicated they were properly balanced. So I put a spacer on the ground below the tires while spinning on the spin balancer and discovered that the tires were manufactured out of round by almost one fourth of an inch ! 😮 So he bought 4 new balancrd tires ; had them installed and the slight vibration he usrd to experience was gone !😊
Tire installer balance is only tire and rim. Sometimes hub assembly is a bit off balance. Tire can be out of round. Rim can have excessive runout from curb strikes. Had a bad vibration at speed, thought it was CV axle. It turned out to be failed motor mounts. Check those FWD motor mounts as soft rubber is not forever.
A large percentage of tires are not round!
Wife's uncle had a tire shop in Glendale, AZ for many years. He specialized in Tire Truing, aka shaving. He did many hundreds in the day. Unfortunately he's gone now.
Tire Truing is an intensive process that works great! Sadly, it's a lost art. Might be able to find a racer that will begrudgingly do it.
I had cheap, mud/snow tires on my 77 4x4. They were bad on the highway! He trued them, they were smooth as could be!
Had this done to some other name brand tires that were troublesome to balance, works like magic.
Thank you for this video. My 2000 SL500 has been driving me NUTS with a vibration on the highway. I’ve been so NUTS that I wanted to punt this vehicle. I am now going to seek an Elite Hunter Balance shop. Many, many thanks. I’ll report back if I have success. Thank you..!!
Tires come from the manufacturer with marks on them, most tire shops just ignore those marks because they have no clue what they're for, it's the balance of the tire itself, which is supposed to balanced with your rim to get everything as perfectly centered as possible. Otherwise it's like having an unbalanced load in the washer.
Tire truing a lost art,, back in the sixties, I was balancing my brake rotors, or break drums statically...
I've owned 4 different vehicles over 20+ years of driving and had numerous sets of tire replacements, alignments, and wheel balance (including Road Force balancing that one shop offered). Most of my vehicles would develop shaking as they aged and the balancings and other services didn't seem to help. I replaced numerous components from brakes to CV axles to suspension arms and bushings and engine/trans mounts. What finally fixed the shaking was to clean off the thin film of rust from the mating face of the wheel that had transferred from the brake rotors and drums. NONE of the shops I had ever taken a vehicle to had done this.
Match mounting should be done in the first place, there should be a paint dot mark on the tire then match that mark with the valve stem.
Usually works
Should be but in 99.9% of the time they just chuck the tyre on the wheel
I have a Kenworth that has seen over a million miles in its life. It would have a vibration at 55mph and it never went away. Because this truck went everywhere on the highways, I had tires of different manufacture, ie. Toyo, Michelin, Goodyear, Firestone etc. installed in different locations and balanced. I had the truck in the shop countless times and everything was checked and parts replaced. Nothing worked.
After years of this, I decided to replace the wheels and like something magical, the vibration disappeared. Some things are just faulty and just because they are new and machined, doesn't mean they are perfect.
I've also had highway speed vibration when I had a partially torn lower control arm bushing. It wasn't visible until I uninstalled the control arm. A new control arm solved the problem. With it just being partially torn, there were no other indications other than the highway vibration that felt just like an out of balance tire.
I need this done my car’s rear tires start vibrating at 70-80 mph
I prefer to use Centramatic balancers. They are mostly for trucks of all sizes. But I am getting them for my Jeeps. They work really well on my wife's 2018 Ram 2500 4wd with that beastly 6.7L Cummins. Even before we put the 4Wheel Camper on. The centramatics give the tires a nice ride and smooths out tire wear.
Equal or dynamic beads help.
Some Ford Explorers had a recall that replaced a melted control arm bushing and added a heat shield. That fixed a TON of "tire vibration" problems.
Very interesting. I had 1 of my recently fitted tyres rotated due to vibration but in the UK I haven't seen this type of machine.
Why did we only have this problem most times with factory seconds in the 70s and 80s? Now I can't by premium tires that are all round.
I kung fue you.
Because back in the 60's and earlier, tire shops had a tire shaving machine.
Balancing really means nothing in how a car rides. It's how round the tire is that matters.
I believed "road force" balancing was like nitrogen air filled tires, a scam. I was was wrong. Absolute night and day difference, and didn't cost an arm and a leg. The next time I got tires, it was from a place that did "road force" balancing. I'll never go back to regular balancing.
I kinda is a scam. In order to make a non-concentric tire work, you need a rim that is slightly bent. That machine and 3x the labor indexes the high spot of the tire to the low spot of the bent rim and hopes to cancel out as much as possible.
The correct way to do it, is to shave the tire/rim assembly round. But hardly anybody (other than me) has the machine to do it.
Had this happen to me with a chrysler 200 that was riding perfect until my first rotation and balance. From that point on had had vibration in the rear of the car, I moved the tires around and the vibrations moved. I went to five shops with road force balancers, some would get it better, but issue never went away. I ended up dumping the car after two years of frustrations.
Wish you, the broadcaster would’ve given the name and location of this store and owner. Why? I would like to have gone to his shop to purchase Tires for my vehicles. Well glad you did include the owner and how to find a shop like the one in this broadcast. Thank you. 😃👍❤
You can have balance issues of using lubricates on the bead of the tires to ease the tire to be replaced. The only thing is some lubricants don't dry off and can cause the tire to spin on the rim causing tire vibration issues. If you want to see if that is happening, make a make on the rim and on the tire after replacement. If the marks are not aligned anymore after using the tires and vibration, then there is issue of lubricant on the bead of the tire and should be cleaned of lubricant.
30 years ago where I worked if the tire needed a lot of weight we broke the tire down turned it half a turn and it would usually cut the needed weight down, I seen '' 1 time '' a tire needing 0 weight after just turning the tire,
I used to do that all the time when I was a motorcycle tech. I'd balance the bare rim and find the heavy spot first. Then mount the tire without beading it and put it back on the balancer. I'd put the two heavy spots opposite of each other, then bead it up. Most of the time it took zero weight or very very little.
It's because the quality today wouldn't even make it out of the plant 30 to 40 years ago. It's saying instead of the center of the rim being center of the tire isn't matching
Also probably not comon on a new tire but i didnt realize they had belt in them so if a belt inside the tire breaks you may not see it with the naked eye but it essentially is now a flat spot in the tire.
I bought some BFG KO's for my 2007 Dodge Ram. 285-75-17. One size up on stock forged Ram wheels. Immediately I notice highway vibes. Discount rebalanced them to no avail. I personally witnessed them zero'd out too. Next they Road Force balanced them and same deal highway vibes. I asked the manager to take a drive with me and he refused referring me to BFG. BFG refused to intervene saying it was Discount's responsibility. Frustrated I replaced the tires with Toyo's. Silky smooth at 80 mph. I've yet in all these years have a bad Toyo tire. I know one slips through but my with experience and my other full size truck buddies won't run anything else. I've got some Cooper's on my 2005 Honda Pilot and they've never been as smooth as Michelins or Toyos.
The trick is to shave tires perfectly round after mounting them on the rim. Balance weights really mean nothing if your tire isn't round.
Bad part is tire shaving is a lost art, but people will pay HUGE money (and do 3X the labor) for road force. And, like dude said, if your rim isn't bent, it doesn't work.
Twisted Belts in the tire during manufacturing. Also you can spin balance your rims without a tire and see if the rims are actually true. I started spinning tires in 82 so nothing really has changed.
My problem. I bought aftermarket rims and one barrel is quite literally not centered on the spokes. It’s not actually possible to get rid of the vibration. Bummer. No warranty either.
i think you should mention the diamater of the tire. The higher the more sensitive it is.
Just got a set of Good Year Assurance replaced. Out of round. Maybe bad belts. Good Year-no warranty. But extra road hazard warranty covered it. About half the cost of new set with lifetime balance and road hazard warranty.
Nope. If I have an out of round tire I am simply getting an on the vehicle truing done.
The tire is spun, on vehicle, like a lathe and the tread is shaved until it is perfectly round.
Used to do all heavy trucks this way and now they do passenger tires as well.
Shave it, balance it... done.😊
You didn't mention the idiots at the tire stores that mount directional tires backwards. I bought a used car that had a vibration in the steering wheel. Twice I had the balance checked and all my tires were good. The third tire shop took one look at my car and spotted the backwards mounted tires. Once that problem was corrected the vibration was gone.
I broke a band in my tire. The rear of car was really bumpy. I thought strut or the springs. Luck man friend was honest. Shady place really could of put it to me
Can never get anyone to roadforce balance my tires even when they have the machine. Takes the tech too long. Even when requesting it they won't do it.
Pay extra. I happily do it for double the price as long as it doesn't delay other customers and usually do it as the last job of the day.
I went through this problem many years ago. New tires that had a high speed shake. Had the wheels and tires balanced three times at three different shops and still happened. Isolated the problem down to two tires so put those two on the rear axle and it still happened. I then replaced the wheels and it still happened. Replaced the tires with the same type and brand. Still happened. Finally replaced the two tires with more expensive tires.
Problem solved.
@@imanoppressedamerican yes it was.
Hunter wheel balancer is only half of the fix, you have to know if your wheels are hub centric or non-hub/lug centric, and find a shop that knows if they need to use a special adapter to balance your wheels. I had a 97 Toyota 4runner and Toyota SUV wheels were known for hard to balance because back then most shops had no concept of this hub centric and lug centric wheels. After some research, I found a shop that were using the Hunter 9000 and the special Haweka Adapter to finally get rid of the vibration. I don't know if Toyota wheels are still hard to balance now or Hunter balancers have this adapter built-in now. That was 20+ yrs ago.
Sie haben ja Recht mit Naben zentriert oder Lochkreis zentriert ... grins
Die Hunter Road Force Elite (3te Generation) mißt ++unter anderem++ die Zentrierung automatisch
(= Automatic CenteringCheck = Garantiert richtige Zentrierung und verhindert Aufspannfehler)
Tip = weiterbilden
(Webseite Hunter Engineering dann lesen lesen und denken, evt PDF lese, Messebesuch, Vertreter einmal zuhören, an Vorführungen teilnehmen)
Hinweis = 120 Softwareprogrammierer beschäftigt Hunter (auch mit Studium , aka die haben etwas mehr gelernt als man vermuten kann).
Die Maschine hat einige Laser und so komische Kameras.
Die Software erstellt nicht nur ein 3D-Abbild des Felgenprofils innen und
berechnet (nach Auswahl der Position der Anbringung der Wuchtgewichte)
diese dann natürlich passend zur Entfernung zum Radmittelpunkt mit korregierten Gewicht ...
... sondern die 3D-Konturenberechnung stellt automatisch Rundlauffehler, Seitenschlag fest.
Anmerkung = Soweit ich mich an die werblichen Aussagen erinnere.
I wish Hunter would come to Australia and teach the tyre how to do the tyre balaceing the tyre and how to do wheel alignment and make them to be better trades people
They are cold! 😂
My Sierra keeps throwing weights. It also keeps getting out of alignment. I have the lifetime balance/rotation as well as lifetime alignment from Pep Boys, and even though it doesn't cost me money every time I take it there, it still takes time. What would you suggest? I have regular highway, truck tires, not offroad/rough terrain treads, and it is a RWD 1500 2010 YM. All tie rod ends are new, as well as both side upper/lower ball joints and all four have new brakes. I just can't get rid of the vibrations and running out of alignment.
First get a alignment result before and after. Next look for where the out of alignment is. Is it just on the front, the back or just one wheel - narrow it down and then focus attention there. Check bearings, bushings or even the drive shaft, it could have lost the factory weight or the u joint is bad. Can they put stick on weights on? If nothing can be found take it to another shop and get a fresh set of eyes on it.
Find someone with a tire shaving machine that can make your tires actually round. Wheels weights really don't do much at all when it comes to the actual ride. But having round concentric wheel/tires really do.
Belts in tires get damaged by hitting all the darn holes in the highways. Road hazard warranties cover damaged tires.
Some tires it's where they spliced the tread. One set of Winterforce tires I had them rebalanced them 14 times in 12 months.
Finally the shop took them back and put Toyo tires on my truck and the shaking went away.
But the truck ate 8 wheel bearing in 4 years. Because of the tires.
Sold the Avalanche and bought a Silverado 14, and drove it 6 years on one set of tires and no wheel bearing.
But the first set I bought made in Vietnam bounced like a basketball.
I drove them twice and made them put the used Toyo back on the truck until they could get me a set of Bridgestone Revo
Tomorrow I go for new tires. Cross my fingers and toes.
Kendra - Made in Vietnam
Most shops don't want to pay for this equipment or more importantly a qualified tech
Bent rims balance, then vibrate when driven. Balancing can address the "balance" of out-of-roundness, but it cannot make a square round. "Road Force" is a name. Simply starting with round, not bent, wheels is important!! The dude getting paid to put weights on should always witness the wheel spinning, to be sure it's round first.
aligning the balance point of the tire and the balance point of the rim makes a lot of sense, but with the tire mounted on the rim, it becomes a single rotating mass, so how can the machine still tell if the heavy side of the tire and the heavy side of the rim are not aligned? It should rotate and detect an imbalance as a whole rotating mass.
The video failed to explain the concept of ROAD FORCE balance versus weight balance. Imagine as the tire rotates on the road surface, it deforms slightly under the weight of the vehicle where the tire patch meets the road surface, the degree of deformation being the result of tire flexibility and air pressure in the tire. If the tire flexibility is not uniform all around, the degree of deformation will also not be uniform. In effect the tire will have a hard spot or soft spot around the perimeter and we experience this as a bumpy tire.
A common manufacturing defect that can cause this is failure to precisely apply the number of plys to the tire. If a 6-ply tire actually has 5.8 plys applied, that leaves a gap of 0,2 ply between the end of the plys and a resulting soft spot. Conversely, if the ply ends are overlapped a bit, resulting in say a 6.2 ply construction for an overlap of 0.2 ply, then a hard spot results.
I had this problem on a new rear motorcycle tire that was balanced perfectly on a standard spin balancer. The fix was to replace the tire. I don't believe any 'clocking' of that tire to the wheel could have fixed the violent vertical bouncing forces I felt when hitting around 70 mph.
That's not what he was doing. He was counting on a rim being bent. That way you can put the tall part of the tire with the low part of the rim. That way they can cancel a little instead of the high spots stacking up. That's why he mentioned how a perfectly straight wheel won't help him any.
The correct way to do it, is to mount the tire, then shave the assembly round. (then balance it, even though small balance weights really don't do anything when you're taking about a wheel/tire that weighs 40 to 60+ pounds)
Take them to someone who can shave them to remove the high spot. Once the tire is more symmetrical then it can be balanced. This will extend the life of the tire.
Yep. I have a tire shaving machine at my house and I've yet to see a new tire thats perfectly round.
I don't use it often, but it's one of the best toys I own.
All you have to do is a burnout for about 3 minutes on each tire....been working for me for over 40 years!! Perfectly round when done properly!!
Where in this video was the runout of the wheel determined? That must be known to determine the best tire/wheel positioning.
Guy asking the questions mentioned his "rims"...ugh...if it has a center, it is a wheel.
Or it's hoodspeak.
When the 'roadforce' wheel on the back of the machine lays against the spinning tire while it was spinning.
It identifies the high spot, then gets you to index that spot to (hopefully) a low spot on a slightly bent rim. If you get lucky, the height differences cancel out. That's why dude said a straight rim won't work.
Where the correct answer is not to spend a fortune on the roadforce upgrade, and find a 60 year old tire shaving machine. Then you can just make the assembly round and be done with it.
How much?
Eggactly. Hitting a pot hole hard will cause a bulge on the tyre. Which is undetectable by eye. But free rolling the whole wheel on the flat ground will show the tyre leaning side 2 side.
If out of balances persist, technicians need to be checking to see if wheels are true on the vehicle. Chinese unbalanced brake rotors will also create an unbalance situation. By OEM rotors
Nice!
Static balance fixes it every time for me
Drop the shop and use balance beads. They compensate for all speeds, never fall off, and balance regardless of tire slip or crappy wheels and tires.
Do NOT use balance beads. They cause shake especially at higher speeds...anything that moves around inside a tire will not balance it! I have removed tons of them to fix people's mistakes. It is a lot of work to remove them. I can mount and balance tires easier than having to clean up this mess....Tire shop owner.
That's not the point, the issue is tires and rims aren't perfectly round. You need to match the stiff point of the tire with the dip on the rim. So the shape with vehicle weight on it is relatively round without major radius runout.
@@yuzeyang8847 it most certainly is the only way you could stand a chance of balance on crap products you mentioned. It is continuously, and dynamically balancing with every rotation regardless of speed or tire shape.
NO ONE that knows how to properly balance wheels uses balance beads.
@@scoutdogfsr again, the issue is not balancing. It's about the overall shape with load on it. You can balance a square/hexagon but it doesn't mean it will ride smoothly.
Yeah, premium tires, road force balanced 3 times, still have vibration.
Have you checked them for roundness? There ARE other sources of vibrations on cars besides the tires, you know.
@@xtnuser5338 Well, I’ve had them balanced 5 times so I would hope they would have noticed that by now if it were a problem. Yes, other things like a dragging break will also cause vibrations as well as a bad wheel bearing, but those things are normally linear, ie the faster you go the worse they get, and my vibrations only happen around 60mph.
Not convinced. It may be usefull in some circumstances, with crap tyres and crap aftermarket rims but not worthwhile spending time on crap with an expensive machine. If the tyre runs up and down you can see it on the balancer and usually the tyre is bad, nothing wrong with the rim. If the rim is true then it does not matter how the tyre is rotated, it won't change anything. If the rim does not run true or is bent then replace it. High quality tyres run relatively true but you get the odd one slightly out, but you don't feel it if rim good. A good match balance is the way to go and a touch up balance after 5k to 10k km. The tyres do settle in a little. Soft sidewall tyres can flatspot and be problematic with balance also, one rim with a slight bend can be felt also after balancing.
A wheel that is true around the circumference can still be out of balance. Even if it's perfectly shaped and the density is constant everywhere, it still has a valve stem and the valve stem hole to account for.
A tire balance machine is only as good as the person using it.
Every balancer I've ever used has had a High Accuracy (coates) or Technical (Hunter) mode that does a much better job. The operator just has to be aware or give a shit about doing a quality job. It doesn't take any longer really, just might take an extra weight or slightly more weight.
The big question, Jack is your car fixed?
Most shops are useless. They simply don’t care.
Take your time use a bubble balancer on a level surface. Make sure the tire is clean has no debris on it and you can balance your own tires.
Balance weights falling off, guys at tire shops are laughing at us! :(
👍👍
I wish people would stop calling wheels rims.
Well...to be at least partially fair to those morons...the rim IS part of the wheel. And with typical one-piece wheels, you can't get the rims and the centers separately. So if somebody says, "I'm getting new rims," then you can assume they're getting new wheels, and despite the fact that we'll cut anybody who talks like that out of our lives for good, they haven't technically said anything that's incorrect.
Interesting idea. But if you're balancing by the center hole of the wheel it's only as accurate as the center hole.. Balancing a wheel and tire assembly by the center hole is quick and easy but the way to get a proper balance is by using an adapter that attaches via the bolt holes. Also for aesthetics, shops put stick on weights inboard behind the spokes (as in this video) but to get a proper dynamic balance the weights need to be on the outermost edge of the wheel. Which isn't pretty but they don't shake when you're done.
Having personally used a wheel balancing machine, if the wheel's center hole is bent (or off in some way), you'll know it immediately. These modern wheels are CNC machined, and steel wheels are made on metal stamping presses using precision dies. Wheels are not hand made, so having a center hole that's off center is not possible. However I have seen bent center hubs.
@@komoru Well, all I can say is keep balancing tires and you'll see what I mean. Wheels are accurately machined but machines aren't always perfect. A customer that comes in with a chronic vibration (caused by the wheel/tire assembly) should have the wheels balanced by the bolt holes. I know it's not quick and easy but it's the correct way to do it.
The Hunter Road Force Elite (3rd generation) measures ++among other things++ the centering automatically
(= Automatic CenteringCheck = Guarantees correct centering and prevents clamping errors)
Die Hunter Road Force Elite (3te Generation) mißt ++unter anderem++ die Zentrierung automatisch
(= Automatic CenteringCheck = Garantiert richtige Zentrierung und verhindert Aufspannfehler)
@@callishandy8133 That's great! When the machine tells you that the assembly is off center what do you do next? (like in a situation where the center hole is malformed?)
Most of your common wheels on newer vehicles can't be balanced with the clip on weights on the outside. That's why most shops use stick ons inside the spoke, since it's the closest to outside you can get.
Amination?
Cazzo?
Viration?
It can be your ROTORS and nothing at all to do with your wheel/tire combo. Must be balanced ON the vehicle.
I have come to the conclusion that tire installers do not know how to operate a tire balancer. I gave up and bought my own balancer, a cheap Weaver China made balancer for around $1000.00 new. This solved all of my problems and proved to me the installers do not know what their doing, even using a $25.0000 dollar balancer. I would back time and time again only to have a shake in the wheel. I swear to God they just throw a wheel on the balancer any old way, they don't put in the right settings, spin it up and slap some weights on and hope. The problem is NOT the machine, its the operator.
Yes this is largely true across all of the consumer-grade, corporate chain type tire shops, staffed with kids who are just trying to make some money so they can afford a new subwoofer, where the goal is to shove a couple hundred customers per day through the process, take their money, and get rid of them.
If you don't have your own balancer, and this is something you actually care about unlike most car owners, find yourself a good race shop and pay them to take the time to do the job well.
Oh yes you can 180 your tire on the rim and see if that works
You get that air wobble sound when your window is down
AMINIATION!
Simple, you either bought cheap garbage tires that aren't even round and won't properly balance at all, or you have a bent rim.
Stick with Michelin’s and you will rarely have this problem!!
But... if the tire is defective you'll never correct that by rotating it's position on the wheel unless the rim is way out of wack too. This might make it slightly better but the only real fix is to replace the tire.
Arguably, your money is better spent replacing the tire rather then repeated expensive road force balancing!
But even if you replace the tire, it still needs to be balanced. The point of this video is that given a choice between a normal balancer and a road force balancer, it's best to choose a shop with road force balancing.
Please ask the Hunter salesman or
write a mail or
call Hunter Hotline
and
ask if there 120 software developer , the laser beams and the cameras plus the 3D picture analysing ...
@@callishandy8133or don't do that since it has no bearing in the situation of a tire being out of round.
the rim has to be bent for roadforce to work. Thats why dude mentioned the 'problem' with having a perfectly straight wheel.
Any more than a road force of 11 on a car tire or more than 16 for a truck tire is too much get another tire. It wont fix it buy rotating the it on the wheel. preferred is 6 or less on a car and 9 on a truck or less
Road force is a gimmick! 9 times out of 10 its nothing but snake oil.
silly Subarus.
This is B.S. as mass production has nothing to do with it. Red and yellow dots on the tire need to be aligned to the wheel properly. What they didn't tell you in this video is that a bad tire with a rubber uniformity issue cannot be road forced balanced because of the tire temperature at the time of the balance say it's balanced, but if the temp chamges it's not balanced anymore. Meaning the tire is junk, get rid of it. Also they did not mention anything about tire and wheel assembly runout conditions. Another crappy video.
this machine is really bad to calibration. check but balanced on different machine
Bent damaged wheels, very poorly made tires