Steve, you guys are just showing off with your cake and custard and coffee machines. How can us little chaps compete with that? I was inspired by one of your workshop assets, the finger thin belt sanding rust eater, a budget version yet untested already in my workshop. Cheers for that.
Of all the dangerous air powered contraptions that money can buy the 'Finger of Death' (as we call it) is possibly my favorite. It has it all; danger, suspense, excitement, surprise, anticipation, anxiety, noise, romance... what a tool. The 'cake and custard inset' is a classic film makers distraction when the main plot is questionable. It is very handy when one has no clue as to what one is doing but hopes for some modicum of credibility - when all else fails cut to a cake and custard scene. I feel you have little if any need for such tasty diversions given your film making and story telling prowess though. Should you wish to try such a 'cake and custard inset' in your fine films you may have to get in the kitchen and do some baking as I suspect such a request of Wilms may get you a flogging around the ear hole area!
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia wilms just whipped up a load of cupcakes of astounding quality so it’s not out of the question having baked goods in the workshop. The finger of death does sound exciting and considering my dubious ability with power tools should bring the suspense up a notch. I would like to sneak in a few vintage restoration skits into my own films but I need a few friends. Big problem there. I do have some ability with drawing so perhaps a few cardboard cutouts of people to flesh out the workshop and give it a busier feel. I’ve been watching your bulkhead repairs for tips as mine needs new pillar posts. Bit nervous about that one.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures Mr Foreman, the trick with the pillar is careful unpicking of the joins/spot welds etc. It is pretty straight forward. Yes workshop friends make a bloke look considerably wiser if chosen well, but given a bit under half your new countrymen are batshit crazy you will need to be selective.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia we are indeed on the same page there. Thanks for the tip about the pillar, those bulkheads appear to be quite the jigsaw puzzle.
I have a friend (retired panel beater) who tidied up another friends series 1 resto. He said that the panels gave him a terrible time until he discovered dish soap for annealing. Apparently you apply dish soap, heat until it turns brown and that indicates that the alloy is annealed at the correct temperature. Must work since the Series 1 body work is mint! Love your channel keep up the great work!
It’s coming along! Britpart hydraulics are usually faulty. Their cylinders are often oval, porous and full of swarf, so the best thing you could do with them is have them bored out a little and sleeved. Better still to do that to the original cylinders, as long as their threaded ports are good enough to take new pipes and bleed nipples. The Goodridge hoses are good - they really help with a firm pedal and better efficiency - the only snag with them is you can’t use hose clamps on them when disconnecting them from the cylinders, but a plastic bag screwed down under the reservoir cap to make a vacuum while you quickly disconnect the hose and then fit a blanking plug over the end to stop fluid loss works well enough..
Great info thanks Nick, we really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. We solved the leak problem in the end (on the third attempt...) Britpart had supplied one odd copper hose end washer that wash the inccorect size (oversized) that prevented a correct seal into the slave. We fitted the correct size washer and annealed it for good measure and problem solved. If this was not destined to be an experimental low milage electric car I would reconsider the use of the Britpart parts. I used genuine parts on my S1 - 109 front brakes and had the rear resleeved, very nice outcome but with a heafty price tag. Its a hard to tread the line between budget and part quality.
I understand. The problem with buying cheap is reliability. Unfortunately, Britpart are only reliable in their shonkiness, though a handful of their parts are good. But any of their parts that need dimensional accuracy or materials toughness are terrible. That goes for their bearings (or anything with bearings, like water pumps), hydraulic components, rod ends or mechanical shafts (most notably s the steering relay, which they make from cheese). Have you tried Bearmach? They have similar prices but appear to have much better quality control. They’re not Gen Parts level (mind you, they have turned bad of late), but I found them much more reliable than BP, most of which had to be returned or binned. I strongly recommend you get your own copper washers from a trusted (and tested) source and bin the Britpart washers. Try passing a magnet over a Britpart copper or aluminium washer and see what happens! 😆
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia I love the banter with you guys. Can’t beat a session in the shed with mates. I’m restoring an old Montesa Cota trials bike and building a camper body on my truck. Then it’s on with a series 1 resto.
Ha yes well spotted, we are waiting on yet another seal kit to arrive, we do have a second lesser none vintage but working coffee machine hidden away next to the sink, which allows work to continue :-)
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
1963 series 2a owner from England, loving the video's and the Oz accents. Keep 'em coming.
Thanks, will do!
Steve, you guys are just showing off with your cake and custard and coffee machines. How can us little chaps compete with that? I was inspired by one of your workshop assets, the finger thin belt sanding rust eater, a budget version yet untested already in my workshop. Cheers for that.
Of all the dangerous air powered contraptions that money can buy the 'Finger of Death' (as we call it) is possibly my favorite. It has it all; danger, suspense, excitement, surprise, anticipation, anxiety, noise, romance... what a tool. The 'cake and custard inset' is a classic film makers distraction when the main plot is questionable. It is very handy when one has no clue as to what one is doing but hopes for some modicum of credibility - when all else fails cut to a cake and custard scene. I feel you have little if any need for such tasty diversions given your film making and story telling prowess though. Should you wish to try such a 'cake and custard inset' in your fine films you may have to get in the kitchen and do some baking as I suspect such a request of Wilms may get you a flogging around the ear hole area!
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia wilms just whipped up a load of cupcakes of astounding quality so it’s not out of the question having baked goods in the workshop. The finger of death does sound exciting and considering my dubious ability with power tools should bring the suspense up a notch. I would like to sneak in a few vintage restoration skits into my own films but I need a few friends. Big problem there. I do have some ability with drawing so perhaps a few cardboard cutouts of people to flesh out the workshop and give it a busier feel. I’ve been watching your bulkhead repairs for tips as mine needs new pillar posts. Bit nervous about that one.
@@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures Mr Foreman, the trick with the pillar is careful unpicking of the joins/spot welds etc. It is pretty straight forward. Yes workshop friends make a bloke look considerably wiser if chosen well, but given a bit under half your new countrymen are batshit crazy you will need to be selective.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia we are indeed on the same page there. Thanks for the tip about the pillar, those bulkheads appear to be quite the jigsaw puzzle.
I have a friend (retired panel beater) who tidied up another friends series 1 resto. He said that the panels gave him a terrible time until he discovered dish soap for annealing. Apparently you apply dish soap, heat until it turns brown and that indicates that the alloy is annealed at the correct temperature. Must work since the Series 1 body work is mint! Love your channel keep up the great work!
Thanks Porter, great tip, I have seen the pine and oxy soot used the same, but dish soap seems far easier, I will give it a go :-)
Neat tip. I have a badly battle scared s1 that k plan on learning panel beating on. I bet this tip will help.
Looks like a great workshop. Thanks
thanks Rowan
Old panel eaters used to use a leather bag full of lead shot for knocking out dents in soft metal
Nice tip Roger, I think the basic principle is as light a little as necessary.
Ahhh jealous of you guys .... loving the work done lads !
Ha thanks Myles, glad you are enjoying our content.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia today I was fixing my sanky trailer, rust proofing the chase & a new set of Bf muds ...
Looks good! I have a few dings I'd be giving some hammerings. That tailor made wooden block I'll be copying for sure 👌
Hammer time!
Thanks Steve.
You are as always most welcme :-)
It’s coming along!
Britpart hydraulics are usually faulty. Their cylinders are often oval, porous and full of swarf, so the best thing you could do with them is have them bored out a little and sleeved. Better still to do that to the original cylinders, as long as their threaded ports are good enough to take new pipes and bleed nipples. The Goodridge hoses are good - they really help with a firm pedal and better efficiency - the only snag with them is you can’t use hose clamps on them when disconnecting them from the cylinders, but a plastic bag screwed down under the reservoir cap to make a vacuum while you quickly disconnect the hose and then fit a blanking plug over the end to stop fluid loss works well enough..
Great info thanks Nick, we really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. We solved the leak problem in the end (on the third attempt...) Britpart had supplied one odd copper hose end washer that wash the inccorect size (oversized) that prevented a correct seal into the slave. We fitted the correct size washer and annealed it for good measure and problem solved. If this was not destined to be an experimental low milage electric car I would reconsider the use of the Britpart parts. I used genuine parts on my S1 - 109 front brakes and had the rear resleeved, very nice outcome but with a heafty price tag. Its a hard to tread the line between budget and part quality.
I understand. The problem with buying cheap is reliability. Unfortunately, Britpart are only reliable in their shonkiness, though a handful of their parts are good. But any of their parts that need dimensional accuracy or materials toughness are terrible. That goes for their bearings (or anything with bearings, like water pumps), hydraulic components, rod ends or mechanical shafts (most notably s the steering relay, which they make from cheese). Have you tried Bearmach? They have similar prices but appear to have much better quality control. They’re not Gen Parts level (mind you, they have turned bad of late), but I found them much more reliable than BP, most of which had to be returned or binned.
I strongly recommend you get your own copper washers from a trusted (and tested) source and bin the Britpart washers. Try passing a magnet over a Britpart copper or aluminium washer and see what happens! 😆
Howdy neighbour (Moruya). My next project, after my other two, will be a Series 1.
Hey Ross, yes just up the road :-) Series 1's are hard to find parts for but they just look so neat.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia I love the banter with you guys. Can’t beat a session in the shed with mates. I’m restoring an old Montesa Cota trials bike and building a camper body on my truck. Then it’s on with a series 1 resto.
top vid vid bro
Thanks Dave, Glad you enjoyed it mate.
Are those landrover Australia badges easy to come by only one missing from my set
they come up from time to time
Sadly the coffee machine looks to be out of action. In my world it would be all tools down and all hands on the repair until coffee flows again.
Ha yes well spotted, we are waiting on yet another seal kit to arrive, we do have a second lesser none vintage but working coffee machine hidden away next to the sink, which allows work to continue :-)