Amuses me that there was a Rover special tool for removing the intermediate shaft, never seen anyone use anything other than a crowbar! Had a chuckle at the big circlip, never strong enough expletives for those.. Great fun, cheers!
First time I found you old boys working on the worlds finest.. Thanks for the video - have subscribed - Ian -UK. - Ex 200Dti owner for 10 happy years, had to sell It as I got a bad left leg.. Currently got a Baby Landrover Freelander but looking daily for the right 200/ 300 DTi or T5 auto box one as a number 2 daily driver
I was having a lockdown tool audit and found some vintage Sidcrome sockets and spanners that I was given by a bloke who lived out in Aus many years ago. Never really paid them much attention but they look nice and made in Aus too! From recollection the previous owner David had an Alvis which his local mechanic described as 'Pommy Rubbish'! Not all British engineering loved Down Under!
Good old Sidcrome, good tools in their day, the 'vintage' stuff is starting to become a thing and fetch some dollars (pounds in your case :-)). I worked on a Seafury aircraft many years ago, worst of British engineering but a great aircraft by all accounts. Hope your well over there.
Its just a degreaser mixed with diesel Carlo, works pretty well. The alloy tends to stay in relatively good condition under the grease and grime, it comes off fairly easily.
Had the same problems in the wet with my Land Rover here in good old Blighty. To cut a very long story short, Turned out to be the black plastic used for modern replacement rotor arms is very prone to tracking in humid conditions, killing the spark. Replaced with the red plastic type and problem solved.
Thanks Graham, good tip. I am considering changing to electronic ignition, the timing seems to drift around a bit which I suspect does not help with the running temperature.
Our actual gearbox was in far better shape than the one we stripped down to get parts out of, as I said, I could have bought the parts new but where is the fun in taking the easy and sensible route. Camera (iphone) was fine, I do wreck one a year so I am overdue for an 'unfortunate happenstance'.
Are you guys going with a gearbox and transfer case now? I seem to recall seeing mock ups of the motor being held up directly to the transfer case. Both directions have merit and more gears is just more options. Just transfer does make for heaps more room in the engine bay for batteries though. I may be waiting for many years for an EV conversion untill battery costs come down a bit. The 86 can sit in the paddock untill then.
The need to fit those 3 internal mounting bolts into the transfer case make it a bit of a pain to mount the electric motor mount plate directly to the transfer case (ie to remove the motor would involve stripping down the transfer case also to access mount bolts). As you said, lots of drive options with a gearbox. There is ample room for batteries so that is not really a concern as we can utilise under the seats (fuel tank position) also to lower center of gravity and spread the battery load a bit. Making an adapter plate to fit the bell housing is way easier also. Lots of plus and minuses. If we fail to get sponsor ship or raise the funding to buy the batteries it also affords the option of restoring a combustion engine as a back up plan to get it back on the road.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia makes sense. Good to keep the options open. I have a divorced series transfer that was modified to have a mounting flange to take any gearbox through a mini drive shaft. Happy to share details if you decide to not use the gearbox.
At 1:40 did you try to scare the cow by revving up the engine? That's cute 😇 So it's for sale you say. What's the shipping to Sweden? And that is one nasty gearbox
throw those cogs into a plastic..tub of fifty fifty morlasas and water .over night and check in the morning that will remove a lot of the rust .they may need abit. more ..but that..will...clean. them up
thank you for the viedeo... i am expecting the video, when the gerabox puzzle will be assembled again. greetings from germany...
Hopefully you won't have to wait too long, still a fair bit of cleaning to do :-)
The patina on that blue 80" is just glorious. I'd love to find myself a little S1 like that.
Sure is a cute little truck Stu, Warrick that owns it pretty much left it as found with a clear coat over the top.
Amuses me that there was a Rover special tool for removing the intermediate shaft, never seen anyone use anything other than a crowbar! Had a chuckle at the big circlip, never strong enough expletives for those..
Great fun, cheers!
Copious swear words will shock most loose . . machines have a quite life & don't like being cussed
Thanks goodness for editing of TH-cam may stop me airing some of the language that gets recorded :-)
what an enjoyable to see your videos!!!!!.... keep restoring this monuments!!!! thanks
Roberto Pardo from Chile
Saludos compatriota
Many thanks and greeting to Chile :-)
First time I found you old boys working on the worlds finest.. Thanks for the video - have subscribed - Ian -UK. - Ex 200Dti owner for 10 happy years, had to sell It as I got a bad left leg.. Currently got a Baby Landrover Freelander but looking daily for the right 200/ 300 DTi or T5 auto box one as a number 2 daily driver
Thanks and welcome Ian, glad you are enjoying the channel :-) All the best finding an appropriate auto Landy.
Thanks for sharing and hey, that 80 is a beauty. Love to see more on that ;)
It sure is a beauty, I will do a profile of the 80" for you in a few weeks when I catch up with Warrick again.
I was having a lockdown tool audit and found some vintage Sidcrome sockets and spanners that I was given by a bloke who lived out in Aus many years ago. Never really paid them much attention but they look nice and made in Aus too! From recollection the previous owner David had an Alvis which his local mechanic described as 'Pommy Rubbish'! Not all British engineering loved Down Under!
Good old Sidcrome, good tools in their day, the 'vintage' stuff is starting to become a thing and fetch some dollars (pounds in your case :-)). I worked on a Seafury aircraft many years ago, worst of British engineering but a great aircraft by all accounts. Hope your well over there.
loved this one , very interesting
Thanks Dave, glad you enjoyed it .
Such a labour of love, those gearbox parts came up like new , would you mind telling what was the solution you you were cleaning it with
Its just a degreaser mixed with diesel Carlo, works pretty well. The alloy tends to stay in relatively good condition under the grease and grime, it comes off fairly easily.
Had the same problems in the wet with my Land Rover here in good old Blighty. To cut a very long story short, Turned out to be the black plastic used for modern replacement rotor arms is very prone to tracking in humid conditions, killing the spark. Replaced with the red plastic type and problem solved.
Thanks Graham, good tip. I am considering changing to electronic ignition, the timing seems to drift around a bit which I suspect does not help with the running temperature.
As long as you rule the ‘Prince of Darkness’ you should be on the safe side....
Rule OUT that is,obviously....
@@henktulp4400 Joseph Lucas = Prince of Darkness
My next job Steve is the gear box so this is a timely video though mine is in much better shape thank heavens. Did your camera survive that hit?
Our actual gearbox was in far better shape than the one we stripped down to get parts out of, as I said, I could have bought the parts new but where is the fun in taking the easy and sensible route. Camera (iphone) was fine, I do wreck one a year so I am overdue for an 'unfortunate happenstance'.
Are you guys going with a gearbox and transfer case now? I seem to recall seeing mock ups of the motor being held up directly to the transfer case.
Both directions have merit and more gears is just more options. Just transfer does make for heaps more room in the engine bay for batteries though.
I may be waiting for many years for an EV conversion untill battery costs come down a bit. The 86 can sit in the paddock untill then.
The need to fit those 3 internal mounting bolts into the transfer case make it a bit of a pain to mount the electric motor mount plate directly to the transfer case (ie to remove the motor would involve stripping down the transfer case also to access mount bolts). As you said, lots of drive options with a gearbox. There is ample room for batteries so that is not really a concern as we can utilise under the seats (fuel tank position) also to lower center of gravity and spread the battery load a bit. Making an adapter plate to fit the bell housing is way easier also. Lots of plus and minuses. If we fail to get sponsor ship or raise the funding to buy the batteries it also affords the option of restoring a combustion engine as a back up plan to get it back on the road.
@@VintageRestorationsAustralia makes sense. Good to keep the options open. I have a divorced series transfer that was modified to have a mounting flange to take any gearbox through a mini drive shaft. Happy to share details if you decide to not use the gearbox.
Dying to see this come together and move under electricity
At 1:40 did you try to scare the cow by revving up the engine? That's cute 😇
So it's for sale you say. What's the shipping to Sweden? And that is one nasty gearbox
Not cool
@@benwinter2420 No it looks warm.
@@slowshop Like a cow patty . . come on Slowshop . . get a grip
@@benwinter2420 ?
I think I was double clutching to get it into 1st without grinding the gears :-) moving a cow is a bonus Martin :-)
The tea kettle whistles at twelve . . on the dot
Always Ben, I drink gallons of tea.
I dislike the parts cleaning, but it has to be done. Great job.
A never ending job it seems :-)
Len Beadell used the rover all over . . only complaint he had was flat tyres
Ha yes that can be a problem :-)
Ok, how many ducked when the camera was hit!!
Ha, even I did and I knew it was coming :-)
If only you were sponsored by WD40 you might use it to waterproof the ignition system for wet days.
Yer if only :-) I did actually use some wd-40 on the coil and points to dry it out :-)
throw those cogs into a plastic..tub of fifty fifty morlasas and water .over night and check in the morning that will remove a lot of the rust .they may need abit. more ..but that..will...clean. them up