ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ต.ค. 2022
- My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
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So that's the reason ambroxan is used so much in the industry. And it seems every perfume seems to smell so alike. Lately I try to use as much as possible other kinds of fixatives like patchouli, ambtrette, vanilla, preferably naturals. Thank you for your always informative videos!
I am loving the thought of making my own signature scents and excited to start a new hobby. Thanks for making it easier to do.
Fantastic, good luck!
Im stuck at bottles🤣🤣 I have parfume bottles, and sprayers.. but a machine that would close that two, costs a lot.. like 900£ for that machine.. 🤣🤣
Its like , nice and classy bottle with good sprayer cost about 4-7£. But a tool,that i need to press sprayer on a bottle ,costs like 120 bottles and sprayers🤣🤣🤣
Yeaaa, so that everyone know youre were ore are in the room, because only youself wear that scent😍
I am 14 and fragrances/perfumery is a new hobby of mine, thanks for making this skill widely accessible to learn😅
No worries bro I gotchu, I first started it when I was 15/16, wishing you the best of luck!
@@sammacer Preciate it!
im making a product for people like you and it would be in the 40 dollar price range
thanks a lot for your videos! you provide very useful information!
Awsome video thank you for sharing this wonderful video . I am a big fan of ambroxen use to make the fragrance last longer but as you said it doesn’t always make it stronger there is a method to this madness .
Love what you are doing Sam. I would love to see you perhaps make a set of videos about the choice of ingredients needed based on genre of fragrance i.e. Gourmands, Blue Fragrances, Modern Fougeres, Chypres, Orientals e.t.c. Just curious about the choices of ingredients that can be utilized for each genre. Breakdown explanations on base notes, mid notes and top notes for each genre would be very interesting.
That is a great Idea 🙂🙂
Thanks for the suggestion! The truth is that would be impossible to do since there are no fixed set of raw materials for each - really the possibilities are endless. There are some core ones used in famous fragrances though some maybe one day looking at some of those
Excellent. Very well explained. You know your stuff.
What I'd like to add is that you can make fruity notes like citrus last very long in a composition by creating illusions. Say for example you want lemon as the main note of the perfume; you can make it last longer by adding a mid/base note of Omani frankincense.
This frankincense is diffusive but also long lasting and has an orange/lemon profile. You can then add hinoki, which is a Japanese wood that has a lemon smell. These put together give an illusion of a lemon note that lasts for hours.
And these are naturals. I can only imagine how much longer such a composition would last if they are blended with synthetics or if it's made solely out of synthetics.
Keep up the good work. You're much appreciated.
Thank you. Yes this is exactly right - it’s what I was trying to allude to at the end, however, you have put it in words far better than I managed in the video :)
@@sammacer :) Thank you. Brilliant video.
@@qaidikramuddin sir where do you learn all this ingredients alternative ? Could you give me some insight for it
@@saidalcapone3964 I’m a perfumer. I have many raw materials, mostly naturals, but I have a few synthetics. You learn by buying the raw materials and smelling them and blending them. There’s no other way. You have to have them in front of you and practice with them.
@@qaidikramuddin do you go to perfumery school or workshop sir?
Thanks mate. This was helpful insight.
No worries mate
please make a video on how to make perfume thank you! ive been following you since!
Kapusta Kiszona! ;D To jest dopiero zapach !
Hi Sam I love your channel. I have been into aromatherapy last twenty years but never thought of making perfume. Recently I listened to your channel and love making perfumes. So I am a begginer in perfume making. Love your videos. I was searching for fixatives in my local shops. Will Phenoxyethanol work as well? Greetings from New Zealand.
Thanks! I don’t use any additive fixatives myself so I can’t help you there - my recommendation is to always compose using long lasting raw materials in the first place
great video my man
What should I use to make own dupe created fragrances to increase performance, longevity and silage any advice? What fixatives you guys recommend?
Bro, you need to do a collaboration ad for Bed Bath & Beyond
Question. She would allow our fragrance compounds to maceration when we initially mix them together and the again allow them to maceration after mixing them with a carrier solution such as perfumer's alcohol?
is it a good idea to mix fragrance oil first and fixative and store it for a period of time then mix it with other ingredients then store them all together?
Just starting in perfumery and came here to watch your videos.I took a lot of notes 😍😍😍😍 What does ambroxan smells like btw ? Thank you for taking the time to teach us ❤❤❤❤ cheers !
To my nose it’s sweet, airy, marine & golden
Another excellent video Sam! Longevity and projection are tricky! Regarding pipettes, what are your thoughts on plastic vs glass pipettes?
He always uses glass. The thousands of plastic one you can see in the background are just props.
He actually mentioned in one of his videos that he prefers plastics. It’s relatively cheap and it avoids contamination. However, it cna be bad to the environment.
He uses plastic to prevent cross contamination and save money. And recommends glass if you’re more so concerned about the environment.
I personally use plastic ones and when I get a full small bag filled I take them to the nearest recycling bin.
Thank you! For pipettes, I see plastic as the only real option for home perfumery. Glass might be theoretically a touch better since it's more inert but only negligibly so for practical purposes. The problem with glass is they are more expensive and more importantly, you cannot dispose of them safely. They count as 'sharps' and so need a special waste collection (professional laboratories have these). It would be very irresponsible to do that at home, they are a big hazard in the bin. Both would be treated as disposable in a professional setting so no differences there. Of course the environmental concerns with disposable pipettes is not ideal, however, I have yet to see a solution without downsides which affect your perfumery.
I’ve been using glass more. You just have to clean them really well. They are more precise and less material is left in the tip.
I use a 100ml beaker and fill with cheap iso propyl alcohol just high enough to cover the tips.
As soon as I’m done with the pipette I rinse it in alcohol and leave in beaker until I’m finished with the project.
Then pour out the alcohol into large glass bottle and use either for room spray for spraying in garage and trash bins or reed diffuser. (Not ideal or proper use especially with that type of alcohol, but better than pouring down drain.)
Then I’ll use a foam dish soap spray, and spray rinse Pipettes inside beaker 3-4 times.
I cover top with my hand, and shake, leaving a little space for the Pipettes to move up and down, so soapy water is moving through them.
Then Spray again with soap and fill with hot water, leaving overnight.
Then I’ll spray and rinse again 4-5 times. Then run hand full of beakers under warm water through the beakers making sure all of the soap in rinsed off.
Then set them on towel in front of fan and air dry.
Sounds like a lot but the whole process takes 10 minutes or so.
You can buy ultrasonic cleaners, but I just don’t have the room for one.
If you wanted to be real careful, maybe use plastic for the really strong synthetics. I can’t see how contamination is possible if they are cleaned really thoroughly. It would be ppm/b left if there was any, and that would only be a real noticeable issue for super strong synthetics.
Very interesting video, Sam. I don't think fixatives and base notes are the same things. Hercolyn D and Benzyl Benzoate, for example are not base notes but are well known fixatives. I'd even add DPG as a more 'fixative' alcohol given its viscosity and lack of odour. You commonly see DPG used in finished perfumers at high percentages because of its fixative properties. They do the job you say, which is to slow down the evaporation rate of the perfume, but I wouldn't have called Myrrh a fixative because it's scent is too prominent. It's a base note and won't hold another scent for longer like a fixative should (as your experiment showed). A good fixative lacks odour.
If you are trying to reinforce a longer top note, I don't think fixatives are the best solution here. More often than not, it's about reinforcing the main top note and linking a series of ACs together across top, middle and base. For example, to make orange EO last longer, you might choose to reinforce it with ACs you might associate as heart notes like C-12 MNA, Limolene D, Citral, Oranger Crystals or Nerolidol. Then the base might be something known to support citrus, perhaps trying Verdox, cedar, Polysantol, olibanum? The scent won't stay orange, of course, but it may give the illusion of a prominent orange backbone throughout the perfume, which has the desired affect.
instead DPG, have you ever use Propylene glycol for your 'fixative' alcohol, ?
is it any diffrent.
Nope, dpg hasn't been and is not being used at high percenteces cuz it is too oily. Max %2 in finished product, evenmore %2 is more than enough to make a perfume too oily
That’s why he used the phrase fixative like properties and used finger quotes.
Those naturals “act like a fixative”.
These also only work if you allow them to fully mature, or add alcohol to the mixture and macerate for long periods. 2-3 months minimum.
I have bottles that have been sitting for two years now that are completely natural formulations that now have a single note, and they are strong and last for hours on the skin.
When I first created them it was the usual frustrating top, mid base and gone within a couple hours. Even within a couple weeks this occurred to some degree.
Not saying building the perfume as you say is not a better solution, or that these resins act as equally performing replacements. Just pointing out Base Notes can “act as fixatives”, with minimal impact given the formulas are given time to fully bond.
@@yigitadrbelli4880 I don't think 2% max is correct at all. Laudamiel recently published gcms analysis of both Mont Blanc 'Legend' and A&F "Fierce". DPG was registered at 4% in one, which out of 60+ ingedients, was the 5th largest percentage in the formula. There are heaps of examples where DPG is highly dosed in a perfume.
@@Reign_Of_Is_REAL Aroma chemicals.
Thank you Sam.
Thanks for the video it's very educative
Glad it helped :)
6:47 and thus my hunt for the magic solution to all my longevity problems continues 😞
Thank you for the great video! I am TOTALLY new to this side of perfumery and I have no intention YET to make my own fragrances. I just wonder if there’s anything I could add into a storebought (in this case a tom Ford fragrance) to make it last longer? I understand it might be tricky or just straight up stupid to add something to an already produced and ”finnished” fragrance. I’d really aprechiate if you’d explain that either trough an answer here or in a video cause I really would love to know!🤝
Not really - the best thing you can do is bring a travel size out with you and re apply it in the bathroom
@@sammacer okay thank you🤝
How can someone with Oily skin wear heavier base note fragrances or attars with better performance? Since most of the fragrances in my collection are heavy woods, resins, and Oud/Rose scents they seem to stay closer to my skin without projecting as much?! Even though I am not particularly fond of fresh or citrusy based fragrances, they seem to perform a lot better on my skin. Would this be a result of having a heavier “base” (oily) skin type?
Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated
THANKYOU
Is it possible to use white mineral oil in perfume? when mixing alkohol and perfume concentrates .. maby just 1-5% for make it last longer? stick to the skin. Ore can you recomend any other product?
Thank you so much, from Nigeria. Can I use fixative in hair perfume. And pls can you help with hair perfume?
Just want to ask
Can propylene glycol be used as a fixative?
Love your work and help! What is a good way to learn specifically about ingredients and synthetics used in Men's scents and commercial colognes like 1 Million Elixer or Mugler A*men.. the things that give it that distinctly manly smell... even though they are sweet.
Thank you! I would focus on beginners raw material lists for synthetics (like on basenotes forum) and search them, then buy the sweet ones to smell
Doesn't glycerin oil make the smell last longer?
Heyy can u answer me if i buy any inspired perfume oil lets say dior sauvage when i want to make a perfume out of it what all should be added like ethanol aqua perfume oil and any other ingredient which is used in the original creation except fixatives like anything which makes it skin safe or less harsh ???
i use Propylene glycol, 1 - 5 % add to ethanol ( asolute ethanol for analysis) for my fixative.
cheaper than benzoine or manzanate
I find it makes the perfume sticky on the skin but doesn’t fixate
@@sammacer thank you, i wil change my plan , i tried to use galoxyde ( iff product), it says fixate fragrance on prod desc.
i hope it works better. ty sam
*/ galaxolide
Manzanate is not a fixative. PG is problematic, because it is hydrophilic. You don't want extra water in your perfumes.
Hello @sammacer do you think it's ok to let maturate in a glass bottle like that jam jars type?
Kapusta kiszona jar
Hahaha yeah it’s good stuff 😂 kucharek seasoning is good too
Thank you 🌺
Thanks!
Fantastic video, so clear! Just a question: is this the only reason why Nasomatto fragrances are so strong and long lasting? Just fixatives or sometimes he uses some technical tricks…Thanx!
I’m guessing they use compositions with long lasting raw materials and don’t apply too much cost cutting
@@sammacer Maybe it depends on maturation, maceration or some odourless components that “fix” the evaporation on skin
Thanks
Is there anything like natural fixative, cuz i heard one seller say this.
Hi I recently ordered some perfume, and after delivery scent is really faint. Seller said that molecules are disturbed during delivery. Can you please tell me how to fix this ...?
Question: What is a Honda Accord?
Answer: Petrol, motor oil, hot metal, vinyl adhesive and grease.
That’s a great idea 💡 you should build a Honda Accord. May I have your permission to? I don’t wanna take your idea without your permission.
@@nickyb7185 Yeah that's fine. I'm busy working on a Toyota accord now anyway.
@@michelleeden2272 what’s a Toyota accord smell like..?
It smells like a Corolla only more expensive.
Haha I was thinking about that kind of thing. Not too sure though, it would be difficult!
Hi would you plz guide me the formulation to make primixture for.perfume
Glaxolide
DPG
Distal water
Ethanol?
what do you think about benzyl benzoate as fixative?
Are there any unscented fixatives?
How much percentage to add fixative in to perfume?…example perfume bottle 20ml…
This video and the one you did last year about how to make your fragrance project is a great combination for learning perfumery. Thank you for this amazing video
Thank you!
Can u supply chemicals in India also…?
Utrwalacze zwiększają trwałość, a czy zwiększają projekcje? Jesli nie to co zrobić by ją zwiekszyć? Czy lepiej dać wiecej czy mniej olejków zapachowych ? Czy timberlisk lub iso zwiekszy projekcje ?
No fixatives decrease projection. This is something I discuss in my new online course as well as working around it. I’d say don’t use fragrance oils, ISO E super usually helps as long as it fits in your composition
Would you formulate a scent for me? What would it cost? Thanks
My friend, how can i order the oil profumes from a good company?
I need the good oils that close to the original Can you please help me?I'm in the us
Do you use proper ambergris ever?
HELLO! DO YOU NEED DISTILLED WATER ON PERFUME TO INCREASE PROJECTION? OR WATER IS NOT NEEDED?
It’s a personal choice, I haven’t tested the effect on projection myself
Much needed information, thanks so much!!!
3 hours later
*Hey, I just added a little Galaxolide @50% in IPM (fixative by IFF sold by Pell Wall) in a lot of PA and it barely smells of either. THANKS for your Help* 🙏🏽❤️ 🎉🎉🎉
Glad I could help!
should i add raw materials such iso e super, linalool, galaxolide, hedione etc into a manufactured fragrance oil? it already has a accord in it like creed aventus, baccarat. looking forward to ur respone :)
You should add them to it. The fragrance oil is just 20-40% of most perfumes, (20 EDT, 30 EDP, 40 XTP) so u can add, they help with longevity and projection. Also add galaxolide for perfect finish
i’ve been adding raw materials into dupe fragrance oil but idk it ruined the accord that has already in it :( SPL not looking that much difference.
Hi Sam, can we just mix fragrance oil and ethanol 99.9%. No fixatives, no distilled water, nothing else. Will it work ?
It will work but 99% alcohol is very hard for nose, you might get burn feeling
Of course
Still using same recipe?
Thanks for sharing this education Mr. Sam.
I'm Ricky from Indonesia, I want to starting open a refill perfume shop. Usually if we want to buy perfume on refill perfume shop the seller just make a combination perfume seeds+ethanol.
I have question for you, what kind fixative I should use if I want make some solvent from ethanol+fixative (ex:pentalide with charateristic musk, wood,amber, etc for long last and max projection) for all variant scent/odor (ex:wood,fruity,floral,etc). Because so many varian scent from perfume seeds and I want to make best solvent for that many varians perfume seeds (max perform for long last and projection)
I beg your advice and sorry for my bad english.
I’m not familiar with perfume seeds… 🌱
@@sammacer thanks for your attention and then I will changing my question, is there any fixative for boosting projection/longlast perfume that will fit with many odor? like wood/citrus/fruity/powder,etc
Why do you have a huge jar of "Kapusta kiszona" (sauerkraut) :D
I am using a blend of iso e super and galaxolide in 1:2 ratio for fresh perfume i am using this blend and for dark and spicy one too and for fruity perfume i am using galaxolide....is this the good blend to use in all the perfumes .....if no any suggestions from ur end....wanted to make one standard blend of fixative which can be used in all the perfumes
If you like it then you can use it in any perfumes you wish
@@sammacer honoured to see ur reply sir what is ur recommendation sir ....please guide me sir
Hi sam , i want to ask u should I dilute my fragrance oils before mixing them with alcohol? And what are the dilution benefits for making perfumes ?
Diluting them is already mixing with alcohol so no need to do it twice. The benefit of predilutions is to save raw materials by using less in trials, as well as to better be able to evaluate them.
Which one is the best alcohol to use for the perfumes?Is it the ethly or ethanol
Ethanol and ethyl alcohol are the same thing
Hello, I would like to ask you if I have a perfume already made, I can modify it or add a new note to it, thank you very much
Yeah sure, why not?
Genius
Why did the older patches of classic perfumes lasted longer than present day patches and the projection was huge compared today's versions? Think about older YsL's like Kouros, the Dior Sauvages, Hermeses etc., etc...
I would assume it's because of the countless banned materials they used, but I'm not sure.
Hey thanks for your very informative videos I will be taking your online course soon I am currently using a product called aroma fix from lotion crafter that is made of PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether is this worth my time or are you familiar with this product thanks
Great to hear - and I’ve never heard of that product but you’d don’t need it for sure, I talk about how fixatives work in the course
What to do if a fixative reacts and and the smell goes away
Fixatives usually reduce projection so you probably used too much fixative
Hello is it good to use ethylhexylglycerin as a fixatif in perfume making and how do we use it Thank you
I don’t use it
@@sammacer
@@sammacer thank you for answering
thank you for answering
Thank you sam for the video....i try to mix essential oil with alchol but it didnt work ..i try the essential oil with almond oil same thing...any one could tell me what to do
Either your essential oils or your alcohol aren’t pure
@@sammacer thank you
@@sammacersame question sam. I used to mix essential oils and 95% alcohol only but still not long lasting, can you please help me! 🥺
does frankincense and patchouli works as a decent fixative agent? I use those and they seem to hold the scent longer
Fresh frankincense no, but if it’s old enough where the top and middle notes have gone then probably yes. Try this, soak some ground frankincense resin in ethanol for a month or so and then use that instead of pure ethanol in your perfume. This will do magic
@@waqarghulam3548 can you give me your email?
Thanks for clearing things up Sam!
Any time!
Thanks for this Video 🤝 i startet my first perfumes this week I'm hyped
Good luck bro
Would adding BHT to my blends make the perfume last longer do you know ?
BHT is used as a preservative to help the shelf life
BHT is used as a preservative to help the shelf life
@@sammacerhi sam, what is bht?
Peace be upon you. I make a mixture of floor fresheners. I don't have a scent left for all the time
Floor fresheners - interesting. I think they’re usually made with shorter lasting perfume
I don't know why at the same time i like the smell of ambroxan but i hate it too!!. Why is that?
Haha maybe the concentration affects it
What about DPG LO? Will it help extend?
No
my question is how do u dilute the smell of the denatured ethanol
Top notes can make it a little, but that smell is ultimately in all alcoholic perfume
@@sammacer i dun get it from Chanel or dior fragrances tho
Kapusta Kiszona
Hi sir sam, im using this formula and percentage on my perfume. I just want to known if this is the right. 20% fragrance oil, alcohol grade 65%, fixative 8%, DPG 2%, distilled water 5%. Please tech me the right formula and percentage. Thank you.
Lasting?
What about Vaseline? (Petrolatum)
This is used on your skin before you spray your perfume/cologne on and not as an ingredient in perfumery. He’s only speaking to perfumers on this channel.
@@Reign_Of_Is_REAL oh, alright, thanks
Exactly
is dpg a type of frixture?
It’s primarily used as a solvent
When i look online to shop myrrh it says myrrh resinoid 50% bb
What does that mean?
Is that pure normal myrrh or any mix?
It’s 50% diluted since pure is very thick and viscous
Can i dilute aroma chemicals in dpg or dep oil?
Do all essential oils last only 15 minutes?
No but many are top notes
@@sammacer so middle and base notes even if eo will last as well several hours?
i made my very first blend, a mix of 3 simple accords, (base, medium, top) 16 materials total, essentials+molecules. i like the perfume a lot, and i spray it on my skin, although within minutes it's gone! this is a nightmare! the days go by and it may seem as time is doing its thing, but this is a bittersweet agony. i just managed to do something really balanced yet fleeting. help! 😭
thank you @sammacer for your top-notch content!
How long does your base accord last alone?
@@sammacer roughly three days on the paper strip
@@sammacerhi sam, same nightmare. I used to make perfumes but after a 2hrs its already gone, please help!
Kapusta kiszona 🤣
hey are you polish?
Nope
how many scents u need for the beginning ??? lol there are millions this is worse than colors for drawing haha
Kapusta kizona😅
😃
A question, Ambroxan for example or Iso E super have superb tenacity by themselves, so if you give your perfume time to macerate, most of the notes will blend in all the composition, right? so at the end Ambroxan wont be the last scent standing (standalone) because some kind of giant accord is made that holds everything together. Ive seen citrus aldehydes or citral added to citrus eos to last longer, but my ambroxan, hedione and Iso E are on the way (eager to put my hands on them), so i would like to know if the overall binding of these molecules will strenghten my compositions?.....normally i use 20-35% (Extrait concentration) with normal strong tenacity, like Beeswax, cocoa, vanilla and vetiver absolutes. thank you for uploading quality content, it helps DIY perfumers a lot!
Usually, any musks you have will be the last things you smell longevity wise. I usually tend to see hedione and iso e super more as blenders (even bergamot sometimes). Most modern day perfumery have high amounts of bergamot, iso e, and hedione as the backbone to most fragrances. Obviously the numbers can be played with depending on how much sillage or tenacity you are looking for since they are very faint molecules. If you overdose ambroxan, it will be noticed
To give you insight, ies and ambroxan is mostly used in citrusy, woody, woody green etc perfumes. And you dont start to smell these aroma chemicals when other short lasting chemical stop smelling, you get their smell from the very beginning in the top-heart and base note. So they give kind of lingering fake effect as if the chemicals at the top and heart notes linger longer
Yes - there will be some blending effect where the components 'gum together' and hold onto each other. This is what you may regard as the true "fixative effect". But like I said in the video, your milage will vary with the magnitude of this and you should not expect it to be massive in general. Some compositions will do a better job at this than others, but it's hard to make hard and fast rules since there are so many variables.
what is muh
myrrh i guess you can search what it is
Kapusta Kiszona jar here