Guide to Oud notes when making perfume (Natural & Synthetic)

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 123

  • @ziachowdhury8222
    @ziachowdhury8222 ปีที่แล้ว +36

    Hi Sam, as a chemist, I find your opinion on Oud oil interesting, knowledgeable and bias-free. As you have explained, the oud smell could vary due to the oud forest's origin and cultivation types. Moreover, there are several distillation types and three to six oil collection stages in each type of agarwood distillation. With zero knowledge of perfumery, I was on the hunt for oud oil for my research purpose at the beginning of this year. It is frustratingly difficult to find authentic oud oil of first cut or second cut (terminology of oil collection stage) of any origin of plantation or processing types from a marketplace or a so-called reliable source with a business interest. After visiting several oud processing plants, I finally had a rare chance to have a few cuts of oud oil on my hand. I would be happy to bring those vials to you if you wish to have a sniff!

    • @franklinfuertes
      @franklinfuertes 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Well. Hello there
      I am cosmetic formulator and if he didn’t take you up on that offer please let me be the one 😇

    • @letsgetitgaming3812
      @letsgetitgaming3812 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I hope Sam took you up on this offer, you’re a saint for offering 👌🏽

    • @elsafwah
      @elsafwah 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Good morning, I advise you to try Indian oud oil, it is fragrant and fills the place with a beautiful smell

    • @saurabhrathore1
      @saurabhrathore1 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      12 ml pure oil cost around 100 usd.

  • @dariumlondon5768
    @dariumlondon5768 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Great video, as always. Don't be hesitant towards Oud Maleki, blend it with Oud Samrat and use in a very small amount, less than 0.5% in a perfume blend. Blends very well with Suederal.

  • @salomonriefofficial5430
    @salomonriefofficial5430 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I'm a barista, I'm about to learn, how to make my own parfum.
    And, your videos is extremely helpful for every kind of me.
    Thanks sam.

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you!

  • @thenoodee78
    @thenoodee78 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Im from Kuwait and oud is part of our tradition and some of success combinations i made is wild oud very very low precentage ,Rosa damascena,sandal wood, cardamom, neroli

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      That sounds like a lovely combination to me!

    • @elsafwah
      @elsafwah 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      منورة بنت الكويت

    • @mohammedzuber3478
      @mohammedzuber3478 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      With rawoud oil we can blend make oud amiri,suyufii,maliki,and khadeem

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@mohammedzuber3478 We need you all to advise Sam on the making of more oud videos, and hopefully the series. I would definitely take notes - oud is clearly an important and integral part of your cultures and has been for some time. I'm eager to see such content.

  • @angelalbornoz161
    @angelalbornoz161 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Hey man, your videos are amazing(literal gold)! Super informative and straightforward. Thank you for making them, keep it up!

  • @gordianusthefinder9862
    @gordianusthefinder9862 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Hey Sam. Great video and I'd definitely love to see you do an oud-including perfume video, and/or one on oriental-class perfumes discussing the different sub types (floral, spicy, gourmand...) there are.

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Thanks!

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Same here. As an apprentice perfumer I've had my hands full studying raw materials, getting ready to try the first couple of other people's formulas, etc. but all I know about oud at this stage is that I do want to go there eventually. Anything you could do as a practical oud demonstration, particularly a compounding video of your own oud blend explaining your choices of raw materials, would be tremendously helpful (and I expect popular).
      Wearing your TH-camr hat: oud would almost certainly be a golden opportunity to create another *series* like the wonderful rose accord videos. Mideastern background/culture/origins, more details about infection of the trees with fungus, oud chemistry, Scent School evaluations again and ultimately a review of the Eastern perfume brands as well as Roja with their pervasive oud fragrance families.

  • @laavaneyasharma2591
    @laavaneyasharma2591 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Nice vdo,Sam. I am using BLACK AGAR for some years,but the information about other synthesics helped really.Yes I am interested in accords/formulas because you make elaborate/comprehensive ones.Once again BIG thanks 🙏.Cheers.

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you!

  • @Rasalghoul123
    @Rasalghoul123 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Hey Sam,
    I am unsure how aware you might be to the arab oil market. But there are many brands some of which include Surrati, Al Haramain, Swiss Arabian and many more... I recommend / am curious to see you try a bottle of their CPOs.
    Also not sure whether the UK has an AbdulSamad Al Qurashi store but I believe they do. I recommend you go and ask to try the Dehn Al Oud they have.
    I think that will give you a deeper outlook into the world of oud.
    Also would love to see a video of you creating a oud perfume

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I’m not very familiar with the oud market at all - for sure it’s something which would be interesting to explore one day, I’ll keep an eye out for those stores!

  • @davidlohcc
    @davidlohcc 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I have been a perfume enthusiast and have been looking for videos that go into such technical details. The closest I could find was Burr Chandler (who speaks really well), until I found this channel. Amazing! Please keep up the great work, really appreciate it!!

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Thank you, I appreciate it!

  • @thelake31061
    @thelake31061 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Yes please, i would love to see a video of a perfume made with oud

  • @pami333
    @pami333 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Oud Maleki is my fav oud base so far, while I didn't like Oud Samrat at all and haven't used it in maybe 2 years... because it smelled mostly of strong amber molecules to me, which I don't like, and it kept smelling of them even if used as a tiny portion in a blend.. Black Agar Givco is a nice woody resinous base, would come second after Oud Maleki in my list.
    I have a few samples of natural oud from Russian Adam (Areej le Doré), which all smelled quite different (and quite different than expected), none of them has barnyardy, not even incensy notes, some even were fruity or had green aspects to them.
    You must definitely get a sample of Firmenich's Leather Oud, this would most likely make you think of Oud Maleki being clean and gym friendly 😅

    • @Shawn-gw7ns
      @Shawn-gw7ns ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I have this(leather oud) and it's got a cheesy funky aroma going on😂

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Very interesting! I knew someone would like Maleki - I haven’t seen the leather oud anywhere…

    • @pkiler
      @pkiler ปีที่แล้ว

      Besides the strong ambers overdosed in Samrat, it also has an overdose of Polywood (captive molecule.). Clearwood is overdosed in Maleki.

  • @MusicKnowte
    @MusicKnowte ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Addicted to your channel. This video’s gonna be a BANGER.

  • @AVINASHSINGHKHALSA
    @AVINASHSINGHKHALSA 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    World's best, complex and expensive Oud comes from Assam, India. Mention of agarwood (oud) is also mentioned in indian ancient script ~3000 years ago. Proud of being an Indian.

    • @elsafwah
      @elsafwah 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      Indeed, as I mentioned, I have this oud. I have more than 250 grams of it

  • @Perfumery_by_Sabin
    @Perfumery_by_Sabin ปีที่แล้ว +8

    I only have black agar but I love it. Used it in one of my favorite colognes I’ve ever made. I called it OudManthus. It was themed around oud and osmanthus obviously haha

    • @Perfumery_by_Sabin
      @Perfumery_by_Sabin ปีที่แล้ว

      My wife loves it as well and she is hard to please when it comes to fragrance. Very sensitive/good nose. Sadly she is not interested in perfumery AT ALL lol

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Cool, I never would have thought of that combination

  • @josesaraiva9566
    @josesaraiva9566 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hello Sam
    Goodnight,
    I have 5 Oud bases, they are:
    Oud Synthetic 010760E, Oud Leather, Oud Firbest and Oud Samrat all by Firmenich and also Black Agar Givco 215/2 by Givaudan.
    for me my favorites are Oud Firbest and Black Agar, Oud Samrat has a super amber smell I think Amber Xtreme is not one of my favourites ambers, Oud 010760E is perhaps the weakest and Oud Leather is a mixture in my opinion of Oud Firbest with a Base that seems to me to be Suederal LT.
    I'm thinking of doing a simple composition with one of these bases, I still don't know with what, because they are very strong bases and easily dominate everything:
    They can almost be used alone, after all they are composed of several oils and molecules.
    As I'm not an expert in Oud, it doesn't seem easy for amateurs.
    I've already smelled several Oud perfumes and the one I think is most similar to the real thing is perhaps "The Night" by Editions Frederic Malle, a real bomb but with a bit of a barnyard smell.
    Best regards..

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I haven’t got firbest but it sounds nice. I think oud pairs well with woods and vanilla so maybe try that, dosing it low if you find it overpowering.

    • @josesaraiva9566
      @josesaraiva9566 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@sammacer
      Thanks

  • @magiccomments
    @magiccomments ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Your youtube is a gold mine! Thankyou very much

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you!

  • @waqarghulam3548
    @waqarghulam3548 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Sam, please show us how to make an oud accord

  • @aphr0d
    @aphr0d 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Would love to see an out perfume making video from you !!

  • @LucidDude
    @LucidDude ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I'm a big fan of oud, glad to see you covering this topic. There are some really awesome producers over here in America that will sell just a few drops of different types of wild ouds (Rising Phoenix perfumery is a great one) so I've taken advantage of that just to be able to smell some of the wild stuff without breaking the bank. I mostly agree with your assessments of these various oud reconstructions, funny enough though I find Oud Synth 10760e to be stronger than many of the others, must hit my nose differently! You are spot on about Oud Maleki, doesn't smell like oud at all, more like dirty civette with ambergris (the bad parts of both) lol. I would love to see another video with further experimentation, really fun to work with these materials in my opinion so I'd love to see how you use them!

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Fantastic, I’ll have to keep an eye out for rising phoenix perfumery. My 010760e predilution has been sitting for a couple of years now so it could be that it looses strength over time on alcohol!

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I agree. At least another video on oud experimentation/compilation, even if the entire series (above) doesn't get done. A little review of an experiment with Rising Phoenix or other cooperative perfumery partners getting test quantities of some less affordable bases would certainly be welcome, and could be built up as a little co-marketing collaboration between them and The Fragrance Foundry.

  • @sikeju92
    @sikeju92 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    got some information about oud in this video. thanks sam. i recently doing perfumery at my home and wanted to try some honey-malty-cereal with some oud in it. does Black Agar Givco suitable for this gourmand perfume?

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes I don’t see why not!

  • @chrisatkinson5169
    @chrisatkinson5169 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    First of all, thank you so much for what you do! Secondly, I don’t know if it is permitted, but it would be interesting to know what popular perfumes have each of those different food bases. Are you allowed to share that? And lastly, is there any kind of kit that a new person like myself who has maybe 100 colognescan buy two learn about individual smells?

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Tricky question since it’s very difficult to find out exactly what’s used to create the oud note for any given perfume. As for learning about smells you could purchase a raw materials starter kit, for example the one we have over at The Fragrance Foundry

  • @LTAS
    @LTAS ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video, love it Sam! 🙌🏻👏🏻💯

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you Cody!

    • @LTAS
      @LTAS ปีที่แล้ว

      @@sammacer Always my friend! 🙏🏼💯

  • @787ashok
    @787ashok ปีที่แล้ว

    Positively u shud do an oudh based perfume also try to get hold of oudh emiri Or oudh khaslkass these two r natural oudh and the resin quality is very superior

  • @salomonriefofficial5430
    @salomonriefofficial5430 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hello Sam, can you make us a universal accord that can be used for all scents, be it woody, floral, aquatic etc.

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Check out my video on perfume bases!

  • @chernyylebed2050
    @chernyylebed2050 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very educational and laconic. Thank you for this content!

  • @dammyhazeez1027
    @dammyhazeez1027 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very honest guy.

  • @headless.scents
    @headless.scents ปีที่แล้ว

    Ohhhh excited for this one! I love oud notes 💫

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hope you enjoyed!

  • @pamelacrawshaw781
    @pamelacrawshaw781 ปีที่แล้ว

    What do you mean by an Oud base exactly? So it's exactly that a base note so you would add a middle and top note to make a fragrance?😊

  • @oinkoink644
    @oinkoink644 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    How far can you dilute real oud, and still have a strong and long lasting impression?

  • @cristidumitru22
    @cristidumitru22 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hi Sam i am a newbie in creating perfumes, at the moment i am working with e.o. i have dilluted them to 10%. I have made the desired combination but i have noticed that the perfume is not that powerful. I have not let it to macerate, is this the reason why my combination is not long lasting/not projecting? Thanks!

    • @Sumida2
      @Sumida2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Only essential oils? Then it's time to get into aroma chemicals too.

    • @cristidumitru22
      @cristidumitru22 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Sumida2 what are aroma chemicals exactlly and where can i buy them if you could help me😅

    • @cristidumitru22
      @cristidumitru22 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Are perfumed oils in the same type with the aroma chemicals? Would these increse the scent projection/longevity?

    • @Sumida2
      @Sumida2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@cristidumitru22 Have you not been watching Sam Macer's other videos? You should check the one called HOW TO MAKE PERFUME // Full perfumery course (2022). It sums it up well, but you really need to watch/read other information to get into all the details. The rabbit hole of perfumery is extremely deep.

    • @alfatihainstituteshaikhyas491
      @alfatihainstituteshaikhyas491 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Heck yeah!!! Plz do! And also is there a course that you offer in perfumery?

  • @jfreddd
    @jfreddd ปีที่แล้ว

    yes, using oudh in a composition

  • @bobvog7123
    @bobvog7123 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thank you for your commentary! Very interesting.

  • @unknowninfinium4353
    @unknowninfinium4353 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you do a cheap version of this?

  • @kwokmingng4548
    @kwokmingng4548 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    thank you and love your videos

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you!

  • @leec1468
    @leec1468 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks about to put an order in !

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Fantastic!

  • @unclereamyaky6138
    @unclereamyaky6138 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi sam, im from malaysia and i want to now ware can i get popular perfume fomular. I want to make it

  • @ModernBladesmith
    @ModernBladesmith ปีที่แล้ว

    Black agar is so nice

  • @لاحولولاقوهالابالله-ق4ل
    @لاحولولاقوهالابالله-ق4ل 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Can i make oud fragrance from labdanium and styrax and cedrol and cedryl acetate and vetivryl acetate thank y

  • @shallbee.
    @shallbee. ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Sam!

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      No worries!

  • @yosoyyuenyuen
    @yosoyyuenyuen 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    14:34 “poop-like smell” must smell bad, and the funniest thing is you said “some people like this kind of stuff” cracked me up 😂😂😂😂😂

  • @deep_z
    @deep_z ปีที่แล้ว

    can i wear the synthetic ones youve mentioned as oud if used very slightly? or they can only be used in a perfume and not solely by regular users individually?

  • @Fstop313
    @Fstop313 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is why I cringe every time I read someone say that they didn’t like an oud fragrance so they just threw it in the trash.😢

  • @chrystals.4376
    @chrystals.4376 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Does Oud bring out any interesting notes in Gourmand perfumes?

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I haven’t tried it myself but would be interesting to experiment with

    • @chrystals.4376
      @chrystals.4376 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@sammacer Maybe I should when I find a better living place and room to experiment with, dirty sexy chocolate honey with oud sounds interesting to me, though I’ll probably have to settle for an accord and or aromachemical due to the price of that ingredient even when wholesale

    • @sikeju92
      @sikeju92 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@chrystals.4376 interesting.. i like to try some honey-malty perfume with some cereal vibe to it. does it make more interesting if i put some oud on it?

    • @chrystals.4376
      @chrystals.4376 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@sikeju92 Only one way to find out

    • @waqarghulam3548
      @waqarghulam3548 ปีที่แล้ว

      I doubt that

  • @francoismakhoul3820
    @francoismakhoul3820 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    good one mate, keep it up! have u tried pretty oud firmenich? harry has it give it a try, its kinda different and easy to play with. cheers mate.

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you! No I haven’t, I will keep an eye out for it

  • @5wm562
    @5wm562 ปีที่แล้ว

    TRY:
    Maleki w/
    Cinnamon Leaf+Galbanum
    Phenyl Hexanol+Honey
    Alternate notes accordingly: You'll find nuances of rose,pineapple, cherry, peach and plum in these chords

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      How about an actual basic formula with individual weights? This sounds like a great starting place for the beginner, with a chance to actually smell and try improvements to the fragrance rather than just parroting someone else's work.

    • @5wm562
      @5wm562 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@fhoeflich There is no attempt here to present a formula or 'parrot' someone else's work. I've no idea why you'd make such a comment if you understood what a formula was at all, and I've been quite clear that it is an accord, not a full perfume. Moreover there's no one place to 'start' in perfumery besides starting, trying different things, experimenting with materials, including reproducing known formulas, which Sam has demonstrated several times (and beginners are strongly encouraged to do). That is how one goes about learning to use these materials. I'm not sure what your comment intended to say, but thinking about perfumery this way won't get much progress.

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      It was not my intention to snipe at your list. It would have helped *me* not parroting anyone else's work to have some weights and maybe a few ingredients to flesh out a basic formula or even just the accord. Sam has said before that thinking about your materials and doing some experimentation to try out your own ideas is much better than just blending documented formulae by rote. I meant no criticism of your post; I was just requesting a bit of amplification for an admittedly apprentice perfumer and others.
      To keep things genial here, I retract my request and thank you for what you did post, as-is.

    • @5wm562
      @5wm562 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@fhoeflich But that's the whole point; no one can tell you how to compose your own fragrance. If I or anyone else did post any kind of formula, wouldn't _you_ just be copying someone else's ideas? Of course you would, that's they we exist as a community. As for supplying 'weights', again, once you've understood generally how to compose a fragrance formula, accord etc. it's up to you to decide which direction your composition goes in. The exact same list of materials with different weights will smell radically different from each other. You simply _have to_ experiment and see for yourself.

    • @5wm562
      @5wm562 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@fhoeflich To answer your concern though, when we put materials together initially this is usually done with test strips to see if those materials will play well together at all _before_ we start formulating. Even then if they don't seem to, we can anticipate how they might in a formulation with weights. This is why I only suggested the materials without weights, since I've no idea how anyone will choose to combine them.

  • @davidnapoleon2187
    @davidnapoleon2187 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Oud wood is my favourite cologne!!!

  • @EsotericMedia499
    @EsotericMedia499 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    perfumer's world - nice guys

  • @jamesrice3438
    @jamesrice3438 ปีที่แล้ว

    Where to buy 100% oud

  • @shihanpk2934
    @shihanpk2934 ปีที่แล้ว

    i heard that Dealing with aroma chemicals cause cancer?
    Is that true?

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No it’s not true

    • @johnhamil7183
      @johnhamil7183 ปีที่แล้ว

      He is probably dealing with benzene extraction since benzene will remain to some extent in the oil or perfume and benzene is cancer causing

  • @rishashyamjha
    @rishashyamjha ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello sam I no to oud agredecn

  • @XxAlawi147xX
    @XxAlawi147xX 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    if you're not sure about the purity of the pure oud you got the assumptions in the video made it lose the main point of introducing about oud. additionally just wanted to add the poo scent in the oud is mainly from the Agarwood from India. so if you wanna try the other types (Thailand - Philippines - Cambodia - Malaysia ) you will find the woody smell but without the poo

  • @spcooper94
    @spcooper94 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I haven’t smelled that many oud scents but the immense trendyness of it draws me away from it. Maybe the selling point of how rare and expensive it is influences people’s perception of it

  • @787ashok
    @787ashok ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I only work with natural oudh and for me synthetic and it's knowledge is very poor probably I m not keen in looking in that direction

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      But then you would need to have a sheikh's purse behind you, and not all of us have that. Synthetic may not seem as appealing as naturals, but trying it is much better than not exploring oud fragrances fully at all.

  • @justaddlight
    @justaddlight ปีที่แล้ว

    Very interesting! Love the tier list at the end Sam. A barn full of poo definitely not for me. 😄

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha yes, and glad you liked it!

  • @photographedemode
    @photographedemode ปีที่แล้ว

    👏

  • @MarkMoore-l4g
    @MarkMoore-l4g 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Wilson Edward Lee Charles Johnson Kevin

  • @osamatheblacklotus8788
    @osamatheblacklotus8788 ปีที่แล้ว

    Now they found away to make the infection to the tree to get oud.

  • @duckjoss2206
    @duckjoss2206 ปีที่แล้ว

    Make a series"How to make perfume easily"

    • @sammacer
      @sammacer  ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Haha isn’t that all my videos already? 😂 But on a serious note, what do you mean different to the current videos?

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Same advice as given above: now there is a Perfumery Course. So you can find Sam's video on that, sign up and Make Perfume Easily. Which is to say: all you need to do is all of the reading, prep, purchasing, compounding, iterating, and skills development to develop your nose and judgment and you'll be all done! 👼

  • @-IE_it_yourself
    @-IE_it_yourself 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

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