Would have loved to win but it definitely was a fun battle! Thanks for watching and don’t forget to check out the rest of the channel for more intense battles 👍
To me this seemed like your brake-bias was a bit off. Also, Stiffening the frontsuspension to jack up the car in the front and having more weight sit on a softer rearsuspension to use the weight of the car to press the reartires down harder might also help. Try to adjust the Rideheight to be less low in the front or a tat more low in the back to move your cars center of gravity towards the rear and not have it lean so much on the fronttires.
@@stevecraw4d92 i havent played FM myself, most of my tuning experience comes from Messing around in FH5 - the principles are the same and to me it seems FM is even more forgiving to drivingmistakes than FH5 was. Hence i am not sure if this is possible but have you considered Allwheeldrive-swapping this B-word? AWD would add some seemingly much needed weight to the car but also move the center of gravity lower and further back, reducing bodyroll while also decreasing wheelspin on the front tires since all four are busy accelerating.
@@neko6803 if you was an experienced FM racer you would know that AWD 9/10 is not the way for track cars. In the wet yes, or a track with a lot of corners to accelerate out of then maybe…. But most the time front and rear wheel drive do dominate.
Greetings from Ukraine! Love your videos so much. Want to learn driving as you, but that stupid system with tuning is ridiculous - driving part of the game i understand on quite good level, but i alvays lose on technical side - most overtakes that was med on me was becouse of not enough speed on straights, or corners, can you make a video-guide how to tune and drive? Sry for bad English...
If you lack speed on the Straights this can have several reasons. First of all, not ever Tune with the same Powerindex is necessarily the same. Forza calculates the PI based on an AI taking it around a virtual testtrack but that AI is a bit dumb and unable to properly balance the intricacies of each car - if it fails to calculate a 0-60-time, thats why, the AI couldnt handle the car. You can abuse that in certain ways for example by tanking your car's rating in certain areas to have more headspace in others. That is whats used to do a socalled a power-build: An example of this would be using the most garbage Tires you can fit on it but a MASSIVE Engine with plenty of boost. Speed in Corners and on Straights can be impacted by the same things: Downforce, Gearing and Shifting - other factors like suspension too but those three are the easiest ones to explain. First of all, if you feel like you lack speed on straights but feel comfortable in the corners, try reducing your Aero to reduce drag. This means your car might be a biiiit less planted in the corners but a massive boost of speed during acceleration-phases, especially in highspeed-sections where your Aero creating drag would increase the faster you go, incidentally slowing you down. The next two kind of work together: If your Gearing is off, you might not be able to properly use the power of your car. But you might also have to change when you shift, depending on your car: thee Power-Curve (Horsepower over the Range of RPMs the engine can do) of any given engine might negatively affect your acceleration as well. For example some Subarus tend to have their Power fall off quite significantly (sometimes a quarter of their power) above 6500 RPM even though they can rev to 8000. So to properly use the engine to your advantage you would have to short-shift at around 6500 to 7000 RPM instead of redlining it each gear and you would have to set up your Gearing to reflect that, making the gears longer to properly use the section where the engine has the highest amount of Power. The same thing can be crucial at the other end of the RPM-Spectrum. Especially old Engines, experience quite significant Powerloss in the lower RPMs and suddenly come to life at like 2500 to 3000 RPM. This means if you shift up and into or below that range, your car will not accelerate properly for a long time so you should try to optimize your gearing according to that. If you expect long straights you might want to make the gears longer to make proper use of the power at higher speeds, if you expect a lot of mid-speed twisty sections where you stay in one or two gears pretty much permanently, you might want to find a middleground and if you have lets say something like lets say Monaco GP where you have pretty much no straights but a lot of very tight turns where you have to slow down a lot, you might want to make your gears shorter to accelerate quicker.
oh and i forgot to mention: if you are happy with how each gear transitions to the next in terms of RPM, dont mess with the ratios any more, not even to make the gears longer or shorter depending on the track. Use the Final Gear for that instead.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.77[2/2] "รับทราบ" แก๊งเพื่อนรัก 10 ปี ที่ไปไหนก็มีตำนาน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ifc0ofD51B0/mqdefault.jpg)
Great race! A nice battle for first.
Would have loved to win but it definitely was a fun battle! Thanks for watching and don’t forget to check out the rest of the channel for more intense battles 👍
i love the ford focus i think it best performs at suzuka and road america
Not sure this tune would be rear end happy at Suzuka 🤣🤣 but I’ll definitely give it a go at Road America. Thanks for watching mate 👍
To me this seemed like your brake-bias was a bit off.
Also, Stiffening the frontsuspension to jack up the car in the front and having more weight sit on a softer rearsuspension to use the weight of the car to press the reartires down harder might also help. Try to adjust the Rideheight to be less low in the front or a tat more low in the back to move your cars center of gravity towards the rear and not have it lean so much on the fronttires.
Rear end is definitely too light under heavy breaking when entering corners so I completely agree with your explanation and tips on elimination 👍
@@stevecraw4d92 i havent played FM myself, most of my tuning experience comes from Messing around in FH5 - the principles are the same and to me it seems FM is even more forgiving to drivingmistakes than FH5 was. Hence i am not sure if this is possible but have you considered Allwheeldrive-swapping this B-word? AWD would add some seemingly much needed weight to the car but also move the center of gravity lower and further back, reducing bodyroll while also decreasing wheelspin on the front tires since all four are busy accelerating.
@@neko6803 if you was an experienced FM racer you would know that AWD 9/10 is not the way for track cars. In the wet yes, or a track with a lot of corners to accelerate out of then maybe…. But most the time front and rear wheel drive do dominate.
Greetings from Ukraine! Love your videos so much. Want to learn driving as you, but that stupid system with tuning is ridiculous - driving part of the game i understand on quite good level, but i alvays lose on technical side - most overtakes that was med on me was becouse of not enough speed on straights, or corners, can you make a video-guide how to tune and drive? Sry for bad English...
Hi mate, I don’t really make my own tunes. I load from certain cars in rivals. I will do a video explaining soon if that helps?
Thanks for watching 👍
@@stevecraw4d92 yeah, that's would be great!!! TY!!!
If you lack speed on the Straights this can have several reasons. First of all, not ever Tune with the same Powerindex is necessarily the same. Forza calculates the PI based on an AI taking it around a virtual testtrack but that AI is a bit dumb and unable to properly balance the intricacies of each car - if it fails to calculate a 0-60-time, thats why, the AI couldnt handle the car. You can abuse that in certain ways for example by tanking your car's rating in certain areas to have more headspace in others. That is whats used to do a socalled a power-build: An example of this would be using the most garbage Tires you can fit on it but a MASSIVE Engine with plenty of boost.
Speed in Corners and on Straights can be impacted by the same things: Downforce, Gearing and Shifting - other factors like suspension too but those three are the easiest ones to explain.
First of all, if you feel like you lack speed on straights but feel comfortable in the corners, try reducing your Aero to reduce drag. This means your car might be a biiiit less planted in the corners but a massive boost of speed during acceleration-phases, especially in highspeed-sections where your Aero creating drag would increase the faster you go, incidentally slowing you down.
The next two kind of work together: If your Gearing is off, you might not be able to properly use the power of your car. But you might also have to change when you shift, depending on your car: thee Power-Curve (Horsepower over the Range of RPMs the engine can do) of any given engine might negatively affect your acceleration as well. For example some Subarus tend to have their Power fall off quite significantly (sometimes a quarter of their power) above 6500 RPM even though they can rev to 8000.
So to properly use the engine to your advantage you would have to short-shift at around 6500 to 7000 RPM instead of redlining it each gear and you would have to set up your Gearing to reflect that, making the gears longer to properly use the section where the engine has the highest amount of Power.
The same thing can be crucial at the other end of the RPM-Spectrum. Especially old Engines, experience quite significant Powerloss in the lower RPMs and suddenly come to life at like 2500 to 3000 RPM. This means if you shift up and into or below that range, your car will not accelerate properly for a long time so you should try to optimize your gearing according to that.
If you expect long straights you might want to make the gears longer to make proper use of the power at higher speeds, if you expect a lot of mid-speed twisty sections where you stay in one or two gears pretty much permanently, you might want to find a middleground and if you have lets say something like lets say Monaco GP where you have pretty much no straights but a lot of very tight turns where you have to slow down a lot, you might want to make your gears shorter to accelerate quicker.
oh and i forgot to mention: if you are happy with how each gear transitions to the next in terms of RPM, dont mess with the ratios any more, not even to make the gears longer or shorter depending on the track. Use the Final Gear for that instead.
@@neko6803 very well explained, thank you mate and thanks for watching and following, the feed back and support is much appreciated 👍
Change it to RWD, better handling and lower PI than FWD
I did that with the escort, great idea for this as well! Thanks 👍