Big & Fast: The Qidi Tech X Max 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2024
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we're getting a look at the Qidi Tech X-Max 3, a fast, fully-enclosed CoreXY 3D Printer! Check it out at shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=239508... [aff link]
MODEL LINKS for the ones I sliced:
3DBenchy - www.printables.com/model/3161
Herringbone Planetary Gear - www.printables.com/model/3119
Cali-Dragon - www.printables.com/model/209121
Addams Family Thing - www.printables.com/model/7804
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CHAPTERS - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Bryan, they shipped you an old version of this printer. I have the pre-order version and it looked like yours. They have since upgraded the front print head cover with an additional fan for the heat break, and the rear cover with an additional fan for the break out board. They have also upgraded to a clicky probe and a sticky magnetic sheet instead of those super powerful magnets (you remove them when installing the mag sheet). I have installed all of those upgrades, and I must say I am very pleased with Qidi's support. They have sent me all of those upgrades for free when I ran across issues. I would highly recommend you ask for these upgrades and also make sure you have the latest firmware and Qidi slicer updates. Now that all of that is done, this printer is awesome and is producing extremely high quality prints. Do not be surprised if you need to start using glue stick on that high temp build plate. I ordered the gold PEI textured sheet and it does not need glue stick. This printer is really great value with all the features it offers.
Do you know if the upgraded version is in the stores yet ? Having a hard time getting answers even from qidi tech bout to say hell with em and get something else
I placed an order for one via Amazon in January (Qidi sells them on there under either Edify-Technology INC or R QIDI TECHNOLOGY). It took about 3.5 weeks to arrive, which might be due to where I am in the US, but I did receive the updated model. With how Amazon handles things though, I'd say it's still a gamble; the upside is you have a prime membership and get the old version, you can probably get Amazon to issue a replacement without too much hassle. I would assume though that if you buy it directly from QIDI's website that it would be the most up-to-date model from there too, however shipping costs might be higher and you won't have a third party buyer protection. @@aaamodeltrainsandplanes3774
Good video and great T-shirt slogan!
Thanks!
Sounds like a ferrari compared to my old Ender 3 v2.
Thanks for another great video! Just a comment and a like for the algorithm!
*I bought a ball bearing turn table at the hardware store and now I just spin the printer around with my pinky finger and load the spool.*
thats exactly what i first took a look at amazon
Hey Bryan, I have the upgraded version of the Qidi Tech X-Plus-3 where they fixed all the problems on the original released one.
It is a great printer, really fast and does detailed prints too. I fitted a webcam up on the top of the open top case area and plugged it in to the back spare usb port to watch my prints!
I have ordered the Qidi Tech own design webcam that fits on to the metal front inside camera bracket for doing the remote viewing and time lapses.
So I be fitting that when it comes. The other normal webcam can be removed then.
I am just now doing a fast 600 mm/s print of a free Star Wars Star Destroyer Model that folds and clicks together the main amount of the body and parts took about 17 Hours to do in a nice light gray PLA, the next parts took about 5 hours to do And just now doing the last part with the Display Stand they did too. that be done in about 40 minutes time!
I love this printer, this is my 1st Klipper printer that also is the 1st enclosed printer too! I also dislike the rear mounted filament spool system. I be printing a mod to move the spool to the side.
I got a good deal on my printer too. because Qidi were doing a Christmas sale last year and I was a new customer,
I got the printer for only £502 delivered from the UK warehouse to me here in the UK. and even though it was Christmas holidays,
they got it delivered in 5 days meaning I got it on the 31st December 2023.
I am so pleased with the printer that I be selling off two older 3D printers and saving up to buy the Qidi X-Max-3 as well? I just keep the two other 3D printers I got
( the Elegoo Neptune 3 and 3 Max ) and use the BTT Pad 7 to Klipper them up so I will have all klipper printers.
I was thinking maybe Qidi can solve the Spool placement by doing a spool holding drawer system we can print where the spool lays flat under the printer base in a drawer which can slide in and out to access the spool. The drawer can have a strong thick base around it that lets the printer sit on top of it, then the drawer can slide between the thick outer base sections and the printer just sits on that outer thick strong base walls. a Teflon tube can go from the drawer to the back feeding point.
Great video, taught me a thing or two about this printer!
I'm really liking my little Qidi X-Smart 3. This X-Max 3 is very much the scaled up copy. Huge!
I recently picked up the Qidi Tech X Smart 3 and have been doing large ABS prints(max size for this machine)some requiring supports, all came out flawless using organic supports with the ABS Rapido using 100c bed temps and 272 nozzle temperatures. I use 4 surfaces for all horizontal top and bottom surfaces instead of default three. I am blown away with how great it prints.
I do not use the spool holder I use a heated Sunlu filament box with tube going to the filament sensor ensuring no moisture issues. I also keep dessicant inside this heated filament box. I run with zero cooling fans and all prints have been perfect.
I plan on getting the XMax3 later this year or possibly their latest dual extruder because I want large format prints with ability for water soluble supports. I noticed Qidi tech made changes like adding ability to see voltage setting on my new Xsmart 3.
None of my prints need glue stick but on ABS I like to add a light coat of Aussie hairspray in purple can for bit of assurance.
Nice!
Thanks Bryan.
well good to see that they went with someone to update ther video line i own a X-plus 3 wanted to see what they updated on the x-max
Huge negative is to not update any of the firmware in Fluidd, it will brick your printer and had to connect via SSH to fix it. That will void the warranty and the info that tells you not to update the firmware through Fluidd is on the wiki.
First things first. Good quick and concise review. Well done. It should be noted that the specific configuration of your machine hasn't been shipped from Qidi within the US for over 3 months now, and the recent models have a inductive probe sensor, and an upgraded print head that fixes a number of issues surrounding clogging and part cooling that your model as reviewed has. I guess Qidi had some of the older stock lying about, and decided to clear it by sending it to reviewers?
I find the topic of auto-Z vs no-auto-Z to be an interesting and nuanced one, especially with developments in nozzle technology in the last year or so. I have used printers both with, and without auto-Z. As you correctly point out, the Z offset accounts for the difference between where the bed level sensor detects the bed and the tip of the nozzle. Now this distance is fairly fixed since both parts are either screwed into, or bolted to the print head.
Where auto-Z helps is when the nozzle wears down, or when changing nozzles for abrasive/regular filaments, but it comes at the cost of additional parts, complexity, and points of failure. Time is also spent at the start of each print wiping the nozzle down for consistent offset detection, and if there's any filament oozing out after the wipe, or any debris left on the nozzle, this can impact the accuracy of Auto-Z. While most of the time it gets it right, occasionally it doesn't. One only needs to look at the various sub-reddits for various printers with auto-Z to see that the feature is prone to failure.
Auto-Z addresses an old issue that has become less important though, given recent nozzle advancements. Nozzles with tungsten carbide, ruby, or diamond tips all offer the ability to print with all filaments types almost without compromise (other than cost) and without the need to frequently switch between nozzles, as well as being so abrasion resistant that nozzle wear isn't really an issue in anything under a few thousand hours of print time even when using abrasive filaments. As a result the Z-offset never really changes when using such nozzles, and such nozzles never really need to be changed for different filament types.
After switching to diamond tipped nozzles I've since found myself appreciating that my Qidi does not have auto-Z. I can set the Z-offset once when I install the nozzle which I only need to do now when changing nozzle sizes. I run some quick test prints to fine tune the offset, and then it's done. I can then fire off hundreds of hours of prints and trust that the Z-offset is always going to be correct, and the printer doesn't spend time doing nozzle wiping and auto-Z before every print.
For these reasons I believe that the lack of Auto-Z isn't a clear black and white situation nowadays. If you change nozzles frequently, or print with abrasive filaments with regular nozzles such that nozzle wear is a frequent and major issue, then yes, auto-Z is much better to have than not. However, when using modern "do-it-all" hardened nozzles, then Auto-Z can actually slow things down and add in points of fault/failure. In some ways I think Auto-Z tries to solve a problem that can be mitigated fairly easily with modern nozzle advancements and it is no longer as important of a feature as it once was.
...and putting money where my mouth is, today my brand new X-Max 3 just arrived (I ordered it before this video went live). I can personally confirm that currently shipping modes have the updated print head, and the inductive probe sensor (not BLTouch). The bed-plate is a double-sided golden colored PEI-coated spring steel plate that mounts to the bed via a magnetic sheet, and not with embedded magnets in the bare metal aluminium base. The print head has a number of additional fans to help keep the tool-board PCB cool, as well as assist with better preventing any clogging caused by heat creep.
I purchased my X-Max 3 last year, and received it last fall. I liked it so much that I bought its little brother, the X-Smart 3. Both printers are serving me well and I have been spoiled by their high speed, especially compared to my Sovol SV05 and Ender 2 Pro, both of which also have worked well for me. But I doubt that I will ever buy another 'low-speed', non-enclosed printer again. On a side note, I was surprised that your X-Max 3 has embedded magnets on the hot plate, as well as a BLTouch. This is how my X-Max 3 is equipped as well. But it was my understanding that newer X-Max 3 use an inductive probe and a sheet magnet (that replaces the embedded magnets). I strongly prefer the embedded magnets and the BLTouch. I believe the BLTouch is more accurate than an inductive probe (which requires temperature compensation and a steel bed), and I believe that a sheet magnet is likely to impair heat transfer to the actual build plate. And like you, I wish this printer was equipped (with load cells) to probe the bed with the nozzle rather than using a separate probe. But who knows; maybe an upgrade is in the works....
The perfect amount of information and puns. Well done.
Yours also have BL Touch? New are equipped with inductive probe sensor. Thx for the video.
Well, i come here for the puns - was not disappunted!
Also, you are 3 days late :/ Just purchased mine. Would have gladly used your affiliate link.
Thank you, 3D Printing Friend. Keep up keeping up
If Bambi releases a p1XL and made it this size or larger, it would be the 👑
A step x step to use the Fluid soft ware would be great.
I've had mine for a number of months,
I do like it but sometimes it's not easy.
Lots of inconsistent printing.
Thanks for this review. It's a reflection of my experiences coming from an Ender 3 V2 A new age is rising .... The translations into German are a bit strange (especially when loading/unloading the filament I was a bit confused - something like this can be improved). In addition to your criticisms, I miss a small quadruple bracket to leave the top lid open with a gap to the case (even if I can print it myself - for me that's part of a full service) - or a mechanical solution. Furthermore, a better solution for cable routing as well as magnetic mounts on the hotend would be nice - similar to the Crealtiy Sprite Extruder - just one cable. This makes it easier to replace the hotend. Is that even necessary - just leave the steel hotend on - no matter what filament you print?
I don’t agree with the suggestion to eliminate the manual Z Offset and the probe. Touching the nozzle to the bed is prone to error due to the impact of any filament on the nozzle’s tip!
When I got back into 3D printing last year after a year off, my first printer was the QIDI X Max-3. It was good through the honeymoon period, but that was it. I also have a P1S with AMS, a Kobra 2 Max, two A1's with AMS and a K1 Max. Of all the printers I have, all current gen printers, the QIDI is by far the worst. I've had plenty of challenges with the Kobra 2, but the QIDI takes the cake. I've had clogs galore, and have replaced the print head four times due to damage from the clogs. Getting the Z height to stay where I put it has proved impossible. It is 30mm bigger than the K1 Max in build volume, but MUCH bigger in the size of the enclosure. Of the six printers I have, only the A1's, the P1S and the K1 Max are on my recommend list. If I could trade my QIDI for an A1 with AMS, I'd do it in a New York minute. I did upgrade the BL touch with the new sensor, and it works okay but not better and does nothing about the manual Z height adjustment. The K1 Max makes this thing look like a school bus next to a Ferrari.
First, sorry to hear of your problems, but I believe that they are all resolvable.
If you live-adjust the Z-offset to fine tune it, you need to type in SAVE_CONFIG into the Klipper console to ensure it gets stored, otherwise it'll get lost when you power the printer off. This is more of a Klipper "feature" than anything else specific to Qidi. Klipper appears to only store any fine-tuning to Z-offset within memory until the SAVE_CONFIG command is issued. The Z-offset on the Qidi's is stored in the config.mksini file under the [babystep] section. If you don't want to do the manual offset adjustment yourself, you can edit that value there, type in SAVE_CONFIG, and that will fix the Z-offset value for you quickly.
As for the clogging, the first generation print heads and extruders were prone to this in certain conditions, and especially so when printing PETG and using retraction distances over about 0.9mm. If you report the issue to Qidi Support, they offer replacement print heads (free of charge) that improves cooling for both the tool-board in the print head, as well as the heat-break/heat-sink which solves the issue with the clogging (or at least it did for me).
Upgrading to the newer firmware versions also tweaks the extruder behavior, and modern versions of the slicer software includes tweaks to retraction distances and speeds that further minimises the chance of clogging. When I first got my Qidi, when printing with certain PETG brands, it would clog occasionally for certain high-retraction models, but since applying the hardware and firmware fixes I can honestly say it hasn't clogged at all in 5+ months now.
I have the Qidi X-Max 3, and X-Plus 3, and had a Creality K1. My experience with the K1 was as you describe your experience with your Qidi. After addressing the teething issues with the first release models for the Qidi's, they now print like a dream and are my trusted go-to printers when I want to be sure that a print will succeed. The K1 would constantly clog, would get its Z-offset wrong with prints frequently failing due to poor bed adhesion because the auto-Z set the offset too high. I had upgraded the K1's hotend and was using a Microswiss nozzle. Even after rooting it and Klipperizing the K1 to fix the input shaper issues, it still had VFA's that just could not be dialed out, unlike the Qidi's where they'll generate surface quality so good it can be difficult to tell that the parts are 3D printed at times. I've used a P1S a number of times, and while they print very well, I can honestly say that they're not superior to what comes off the Qidi's. It's about the same, but with the Qidi's I get a little more control to over the firmware to fine tune it. Out of the box though, yes, the Bambu's are a little better set up.
I'm sorry that you've had troubles and if you've lost faith in your printer the same way that I lost faith in my K1, then I understand. Just be aware that most issues can be resolved, that Qidi support is generally excellent if you give them the chance (unlike Creality, ugh), and that the printers and firmware that they ship nowadays have largely addressed all the early model teething issues.
@@stew675 thanks for a very reasonable and thorough response. I will take what you say to heart and take steps to resurrect my QIDI, which is currently a $900 boat anchor in my metal shop, taking up space. I certainly do not wish to take that loss on the chin and would be delighted to have a working 330mm printer.
@Immolate62 I hope you can get it resolved and working for you again. Oh, one quick note on SAVE_CONFIG is that command will restart the firmware to apply the new config, so be sure that the printer isn't mid-print if you use it. Wait until any print that is in progress is done first.
Z offset is never zero with auto z offset, check the start code of a Bambu X1
Too much already about this ....Jon just get down to work.😎
Is the calibration manual or auto?
Have an update on another issue I just had. Suffered a massive layer jump on a print and noticed the adjuster screw in a chunk of the surrounding plastic laying under the print bed. If that wasn't bad enough I soon discovered the cause of that happening and it is because the 4 screws at the back that hold the tensioner pulley were all loose and flopping around. I thought they were just loose at first, only to discover the plastic behind them was shattered. I can only assume it was over tightened at assembly in the factory and I opened a ticket with Qidi and they proceeded to blame me for the damage. I asked them to replace the printer and they have refused so I do not know what is going to happen, but I have a completely broken printer that cannot be easily repaired and it is something I should not have to repair in the first place. I am going to file a complaint with the Ohio Attorney General's office to start and go from there. This is so frustrating and the fact they accused me of breaking it burns my britches.
Would you recommend this for a first printer to start a small 3d printing side business?
Thought this was a traxxas review at first 😆
Since you have access to fluid can you show how flat the bed is -- After seeing a few reviews of the K1 Max -- the bed at best is off by almost 1mm, I would expect this to be better with a thick aluminum bed, is it?
I can help you out here. I received my new X-Max 3 two days ago. The bed came slightly slanted from the factory. It was flat, just tilted by about 0.4mm. I followed their manual bed levelling guide from the Wiki to tram the bed relative to the gantry. It has 4 screws under the bed plate which compress springs that holds the build plate to the bed frame. Adjusting those I got the 4 corners to as close as I was able to do.
The bed is large, and so takes a while to fully soak for even heat distribution, during which time the bed will move about slightly until the heat is evenly distributed. This can take about another 5 minutes AFTER the bed thermistor says that it's up to temperature. There's even a sticker that warns you about this, that just because the center of the bed is up to temperature, it does not mean that the edges are.
Anyway, after tramming the bed and letting it heat soak for 5 minutes at desired temperature I ran the full bed mesh calibration.
The result was a 0.15mm variation in height from the highest to the lowest point on the bed. That's 0.15mm across the full 330x330mm area.
Within the central 200x200mm print area, I'm seeing a variation of just 0.06mm. Basically the bulk of the variation occurs right at the very edges, and even then, it's still pretty small.
I have to say, I was very impressed by that.
That hot end though. its like they literally copied Bambu Lab's hot end. But thats actually a good thing, its a good hot end.
I LOVE INNOVATION WE ARE REALLY BEING SPOILED NOW A DAYS 👍
Creality Ender 5 Plus 400 x 35o x 350
The choice of bltouch is baffling. prusa, bambu, even creality moved to nozzle probing.
They don't use the bl touch on the newer ones... I have 2 x max 3s, and they both have an inductive proximity probe. Far far FAR is better than those bl touches. They have upgraded ALOT of other stuff, too, that he didn't seem to have on the one they sent him. The current x max 3's come with a completely upgraded hotend assembly and new tool head front and back panels with more fans. I believe they gave him an older one since it was probably free of charge. I only buy Qidi printers now, their custom service can NOT be beat, ha ds down best in the 3d printer game.if anything breaks on my printers, they reply back usually within hours, deff by end of day. They immediately overnight replacement parts that same day, arrive on my doorstep in 3 days from China. They never blame you. They always answer you. They ALWAYS take suggestions to better their machines and take customer feedback very seriously with lightning fast results. They still overnight me parts to fix my qidi gen 2 x max and x plus 2 still to this day, many years later! Doesn't matter if I destroy stuff and break something that is my fault... qidi takes care of you and gets the you the parts you need to fix it. Again, their customer service CAN NOT be beat.
That’s how you say that? Huh. Learn something new.
hard pass. not speed im looking for, quality of the print im looking for. i'll take my ender 3 pro and my elegoo neptune 3 max over the over priced printer in ur video anyday. just need $40 in plexiglass and corner mount brackets to make the ender 3 pro and elegoo 3 max fully enclosed. not worth the price differences .
That’s fine. There are those of us though that need a 350 degree hot end and 65 degree actively heated chamber to produce nearly flawless ASA, ABS, etc…
I had read this comment a few times before I understood it. I have both a modified Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus with Klipper plus linear rails and a 0.6mm nozzle, and a Qiditech X-Plus 3 with a 0.4mm Diamondback nozzle. The Plus 3 is the sl8ghtly cheaper, slightly smaller version of the Max 3, and sells for just over $600, but has all the same features.
In terms of print quality it is chalk and cheese. If the Qidi is slowed down a touch from its default high speeds it easily near flawless print quality while still printing 2 to 3x faster than the Elegoo. The modified Elegoo does print very well, but all up that machine has cost about $550 in its present state with the mods and the Raspberry PI.
With Klipper on the Elegoo it does print significantly more cleanly than the stock Marlin firmware with none of the ringing and vibrations that the stock firmware had. It prints beautifully now but even so, it still doesn't quite match the quality of prints coming off the Qidi in half the time (or less).
I've also Creality printers. A brand new K1 that I picked up for $300 from Microcenter. Creality cuts corners so heavily that I always found myself spending more time trying to get the same quality that would come off either the Elegoo or the Qidi, than actually printing. I eventually got the K1 printing fairly well after upgrading a bunch of parts but I could never get the VFA's to go away fully. Eventually I got so frustrated with it that I just turned it off and sold it 2nd hand.
I guess my main point is that in my experience there is always a cost in quality with budget solutions that results in needing to spend more to fix those issues than simply buying quality in the first place.
If you don't have the budget to splurge on a high end printer, that's fine, but don't fool yourself that you won't be spending more money and time in the long run trying to chase down the same level of quality that comes easily with the higher end printers.
@@stew675 like i stated I'm not looking for speed. also the build plate volume on the elegoo 3 plus and your Qiditech X-Plus 3 is small. i'm not trying to plastic weld parts together. that's why i got the elegoo 3 max. i can buy 6 elegoo 3 for the price of 1 Qiditech X-Plus 3. most people aren't looking to spend over 600 on one printer. also i hydro dip and paint all my prints. so can't even see the layer lines after that has been done. i had a raspberry pi on one of ender 3 pro's i have. took it off and the ender 3 pro works just fine without it. from my experience you can get the same quality with a budget printer..if you take your time. to many people want to have speed vs quality. the faster the print, the less quality of the part. also it how you take care of your machines......ill give an example. my 95 chevy s10 cost $25k in 1995 has 112k miles and still runs and drives perfect with no issues vs my friend who has a 2018 ford f250 that cost $55k and has the death wobble and has 200k miles on it. if you take care of the machine and not rush building parts you will get amazing quality but when u rush parts like ford and jeep did on there trucks you get bad quality of parts and poor results. also not all plastics are made the same. plastic filament companies don't have quality control like the do with auto parts. micro centers inland filament is JUNK, so is sunlu. i've had amazing results with flashforge, elegoo, and overture filaments. and like i said originally costs only $40 to build a plexiglass enclosure
@@rjakiel73 well abs is best used with injection molding and it's not hard to build a injection molding machine for under $600. no warping with injection molding vs using a fdm printer. asa and abs do have flaws with fdm printers vs injection molding with abs and asa.
@@honda-s2k Ok, so what confuses me here is that you're talking about an Ender 3 Pro, which is 220x220x250, and yet you're calling the Max3 small at 325x325x315, the Elegoo Plus 3 small at 320x320x400. You talk about buying 6 x Elegoo 3's, which are 220x220x280, but go on again to say that the X-Plus 3 is too small at 280x280x270. It sort of feels like you're arbitrarily moving the goal posts to suit your position. A bunch of bed-slinging base model Elegoo 3's using POM wheels isn't going to generate anywhere near the print quality that a rigid framed CoreXY with metal rails will do, especially for taller prints where the bed movement will cause the prints to wobble the taller they get, and certainly are going to require a ton of maintenance to keep them going reliably.
Perhaps it's best if you could state what exactly your criteria is for your printer, aside from an arbitrary definition of "quality". You're also not going to find a brand new bed-slinger for less than $350 that makes an Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus or a Qidi Max-3 feel "small". The moment you get to sizes larger than that, the dollar amounts start ramping fairly quickly, and with increasing print quality issues for larger bed-slingers.
The Comgrow T500 bedslinger at 500x500x500 is $769. The Anycubic Cobra 2 Max at 420x420x500 is $499. The Elegoo Neptune 3 Max at 420x420x500 is $399, and extremely slow for printing things of that volume. Point being that you can't (logically) complain about not wanting to fuse 3D parts together, call fairly large printers small, and then talk about buying a bunch of cheap printers with small print volumes like that meets your stated needs. At some point you've got to state precisely what it is that you're looking for instead of flip-flopping on your requirements.
Big plastic things so you can throw more plastic in the garbage.
Cut that hair.
needs to be 425 x 425 x 425
amen. to over priced for such a small bed