Ron, I appreciate your professionalism and how you go beyond the code requirements and in this video post excerpts from the code to clarify minimum requirements. Your pride in your workmanship shines through, May the god of electricity smile on you in 2024.
I know of one residential house near here that has 208, right across from the phone company But in this territory mostly only large businesses get 208 3 phase, smaller places get high leg delta so no problem feeding a house off that. 208 volts = 75% power on heating elements, take the oven longer to come up to temp, dryer probably you would not notice since duty cycle only about 50% when up to temp anyway, air conditioners all dual rated.
I had a compressor in my garage that worked fine for years. All of a sudden, it began popping the breaker. I also noticed a much higher voltage on one leg of the service. After numerous calls to our utility, they sent out a tech who pulled the meter and put on an artificial load. He found arcing on the neutral at the pole! No problems since but what a weird thing to happen.
Ron, before I cut the service cable hot legs I wrap tape on first then do my cut. This helps avoid dropping the tape when pulling it out of your pocket or pouches. This avoids climbing down the ladder with a exposed hot leg. Only took me one time to learn that lesson.
On the SE utility connection, I always use a ceramic cat head instead of a plain hook. Just my two cents. Love your vids and even as an old electrician I always pick up a thing or two. Keep up the great work, Ron!
Hi Ron. I really enjoy your videos. I am a licensed electrician but not working in the trade except for work that I do for myself and family/friends. So your videos help keep me current. I am also a licensed plumber and gas fitter. In this particular video I noticed to the right at the ceiling of there was yellow flexible gas pipe (CSST) that may not have been bonded. It is important to bond this pipe that is only .008” to protect it from lightning strikes which otherwise could cause fire and explosions. So when you see this pipe in a home you may want to recommend to clients having the pipe bonded. The black CSST has a bonding strip inside and does not have to be bonded. The only CSST that should be bonded is yellow. The short gas pipe connectors behind appliances look similar but are not the same and do not have to be bonded. Thanks again! Larry D.
Very good observation Larry. I didn't notice the CCST when I was there but did see it in the video, oddly enough. I'll be back to this house later next month so I will check to see if the bond was made at the installation.
Love your video Ron, i am a utility company troubleshooter, i have been to many jobs of open neutral, phase down or low voltage that a electrician who reponded to customer call, sold them a service upgrade. Then calls utility to repair actual problem. Then i stand in front of customer, while they ask me what did i pay electrician for? Truthfully i make up a story that they all new equipment with plenty of space for car chargers etc....
The biggest trouble with this call was the utility lost a neutral and damaged a lot of equipment inside the house. I don't know the extent of the damage but I'll be going back there to changeout some old non-tamper resistant receptacles, GFCI's, and I'm sure other unlicensed hack work.
Great video. The camera resolution is very good, so we can see what is being done. I like the NEC reference printed out on screen. I remember things better when I see them. I got a laugh out of your experience of trapping the ladder after spicing onto the utility wires! Everybody has done mistakes like that too.
That floating neutral is unpredictable. I had a residential service that had a bad neutral connection at the drop. The customer complaint initially were some branch circuits not working. I checked the voltage at the the. 200 amp panel using a digital meter and got a reading of 800+ volts which blew the meter. The utility came out and replaced the lug on the neutral. Again your work is great! Enjoy all of your videos.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I didn’t either, it’s possible the reading was thrown off from the floating neutral, however it read over 800 and stopped working🤷🏼♂
Funny when you tied in the service conductors with them through the rungs haha. Yes in 45 years I have made many dumb mistakes mostly when I am doing something for the thousandth time and I am thinking of other things.
You should get yourself an impact gun, I like the Milwaukee surge as it's quieter. They are lighter and better on the battery. This is the 1st video of yours I have seen , I like how you add the code in the video. That's a nice touch. Subscribed.
I have done lot of service upgrades and never used 4" long screws to secure service cable. Excessive length could pierce a wire or worst yet a water supply line inside of walls. Always taped the bare grounded conductor both inside of meter can ( white tape ) and at weather head ( two laps of Scotch 33 black tape ) . The black scotch 33 tape that I used at my weather head bare wire almost 40 years ago holding up good out in the sun, rain , heat & cold. I had a dedicated steel brush to brush the paste deep into aluminum strands. Keep it in a heavy freezer bag to keep it clean. Years ago PECO would give you quality center bolt bugs to connect services. Had to sign for them but every once in awhile would have one of their bucket trucks on a job and they would give me a bunch of the two sizes they had.
You tape the uninsulated grounded neutral? Lol what for? That makes no sense. 4” long screws are necessary because of the 2-3 finishes on an old house. Water pipes are never run on the exterior walls of a house because they would freeze.
Rookie journeyman here in TX. EARNED my sub sir. Excellent work, but "Go get your license " put it over for me. So many unlicensed hacks around my area doing really shoddy/unsafe work. Thanks sir!
I enjoy watching your videos and the difference in how things are done. I live in British Columbia. All services connects and disconnects have to be done the local utility . I notice that you attach cable directly to the wall . Our standard is all conductors above ground have to be in conduit. Underground can be direct burial or in a conduit.
You are super lucky to have such lenient codes here where I’m at in Illinois they want rigid pipe all the way from the weather head down to the panel. I wish we could do it like you.
No fluff, no BS, these videos are the real deal, what it’s like to actually be on the job. Super helpful to watch a seasoned pro getting it done. Ron: I get nervous sending 2-3” screws in for straps, that I’ll hit something. Ever a concern for you?
I thought the video transition at 7:57 was the vinyl siding falling down on you! And I know handling the service feed is safe because you are insulated, but it still freak me out a bit. A few years ago we had to replace our meter box - water leak had corroded the lugs and we lost one leg to the house. Our electrician run his pvc heat box directly from the service feed, which I found fascinating
17:45 Just curious why you are using 4" screws, wouldn't they only be effective if you were to hit a stud? The top of that screw has 1.5" of no threads, once it is in all the way it is not even grabbing the sheathing on the wall unless you hit a stud. I might even be concerned about hitting a wire inside a wall.
Hey Ron, Happy New Year to you and your family. Funny, I have a 32’ Werner fiberglass ladder in my garage that’s only been used twice. Let me know if you are ever down around exit #2 of the NJTP we can talk 🥳🥳🥳🥳
Hey Ron, first, happy new year!! So, in that connection of wires with the grid, it will be not better remove the existing splice so that there is only one splice, thus avoiding hot spots? Congratulation, Nice job.
Wow. Copper service cable. Priced 4/0 copper SEU cable 40 years ago and it was $1 an inch ( $12 a foot ) and Billows electric only stocked it in one of their 12 locations., the one down at the Jersey shore.
Ron, great videos, do you have any videos of a service upgrade where the service cable comes to the roof over head, but goes down thru the inside wall to the panel? All services in your area seem to be on exterior of house?
Love the video and the code references on screen are pretty cool. I always get a little pucker factor when I have to work with live conductors or see someone work on them even though I know what is being done is safe, I have the greatest respect for those that do it every day. I have hooked rg6 messenger cable through my ladder more than a few times I would like to admit, it's always a pain to go back and undo it since there can't be any break in the cable before the ground block we could never do a splice outside even if there was enough slack to create drip loops.
Ron what weather head are you using, I can’t seem to find it online to order? Are metallic ones in that style code compliant like the pvc? You can also put referral/affiliate links to your products and tools used if people were looking for them.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey oh ok I apologize. I guess I was more just interested in understanding how you itemize a job on paper when you give it to a customer. Like whether to break down all the costs involved in the job or just keep it simple and write 200A service upgrade for example.
That was great video, camera angle on ladder was great. When you connected live wires on ladder,is that the reason you could handle them because you were on fiberglass ladder so you were not grounded?
Curious the utilities out there supply the meter sockets . Here in MA we have to supply them, also we have to have an outside emergency shut off outside, for single and duplex dwelling units. Looks like New Jersey doesn't require.
They do provide meter enclosures but this was kind of an emergency repair so I just bought one. A permit number is required in order to get the meter enclosure and I still dont have the permit for this job. I've applied for one but it hasn't been processed as of yet.
My neighbours have 208vac, theres a pump house on their side of the steeet, you can see the 3 hots ans neutral that each house is connectes to. My house is 240 fed from a backlane with dedicated transformers every X number of houses.
Just did a similar job the other day. Mine though lost the neutral between the meter base and breaker panel . Since we had to replace the service cable from meter base to the inside the AHJ required us to add a disconnect outside and we went ahead and replaced service mast , meter base and added disconnect along with new ground rods and put it in conduit outside as I don’t like not putting it in conduit and that was what caused the issue originally because the outer sheathing had failed and was letting water into cable . When I cut cable inside house to attach to to pull it out and new one in ( had a finished bedroom between meter base and panel and we lucked up and got the old cable pulled out with the new one attached to it since someone had bored oversized holes in the joist originally ) water poured out of service cable and neutral conductors were corroded in to and just pulled out in pieces .
Because of concerns to protect the conductors from physical damage. For instance, I cannot use SE-cable when a meter is in close proximity with a driveway, or car port. Stuff like that.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I just can't stomach phillips drive screws anymore. They cam out, they strip. Friggin' pain in the ass. Thanks for the vids from an ex-Jersey boy (Trenton area - Ewing) now in Colorado.
Hi Ron - The part where you cut the live wires coming from the street or the transformer scares me. Can you explain how you are able to cut those wires without getting shock or maybe you can do a short video explaining? Thanks.@@electricianron_New_Jersey
@@owenjennings8575 Current leaves the source and returns to the source. Do not give the electrons a path to flow and you won’t get shocked/ electrocuted.
Have you added any emergency disconnect switches on the outside of homes in combination with a meter pan replacement in PSE&G territory? It would be nice to have a meter-main panel with meter pan and integrated 200A breaker as emergency and service disconnect, but I can’t find if PSE&G allows that. Thanks, great to hear your NJ specific knowledge.
I don't think I've done a full upgrade in either territory since 9/6 when the full requirement went into effect. For some reason they do not like the meter/ main combos and I wish I knew why.
They dont allow them here either. One reason I’ve been told is it makes it even less likely someone will replace the meter socket when the jaws wear out. You usually can’t get new replacement jaws within a few years. There are other reasons too. But the outside disconnects are the code now and they will be making them be added if there are any changes to the service conductors or socket add one
Bro you the master, I like you working, niceeeeeee and cleaner, take you time to do any job I like that my name is Rafael Paulino I live in Florida, I start following you video, I electrician too
I have never seen a 120/208 single phase Residential service in my 28 years in the Trade. We do have a lot of 3phase 120/208volt high-leg Delta Commercial services here in the Portland
Hey brother what I learned to get better tongue on the part which you were installing the straps up too, just use a better drill with less fasteners.. one long but instead of that drywall attachment and those other attachments.. or just get closer with one medium size bit.. especially since you’re up in heights.. I enjoyed this video 🤜🏽🤛🏽
Hey Ron, Love your videos. Have you ever had an issue with pseg making you re-do a point of attachment to accommodate the larger wires they will use as the new service drop?
Ron it finally clicked! You remind me of Larry miller the comedian! Ever since I started watching your vids you reminded me of someone and it was him! Lmao keep up the great work and content!
It's always good practice all around to use anti-ox on ALL of your AL conductors. Over the years they have made a lot of saftey improvements in the alloys specifically used for electrical applications, but AL can still oxidize, especially if outdoors, or in humid areas.
I’ve seen this in residential distribution system. It occurs if the loading and phase angle between the phases isn’t perfect. High inductive or capacitive load will cause the phase angle to shift. Each phase is 120 vac and across the phases will be 208vac. I would have the utility check either the transfer or the loading on each phase.
@@persona250 the generator sets it at 120 degrees . A transformer can be designed to set the voltage 180 degrees apart. On High Voltage lines the phase angle of 120 degrees can be sifted up to 5 degrees either way. To get 240 volts the phases have to be 180 degrees opposite. Load currents of different type of loads can shift the angle . It comes down to the anglular different between the current and voltage.
Imagine adding a single phase panel from a three phase 120/ 208 service. The double pole circuits in the single phase panel would be 208V across both legs. That's what they have here.
Ron sounds like the power co. Just tap the house service off a 120/208 3 phase bank not ideal for a residential property. As a lineman of 31 years from a municipal utility we would never tap a residential property off a power bank. Obviously they just used 2 phases. Keep up the fabulous videos.
To my fellow NJ electrical contractor. Where is the outdoor disconnect for the service which is required but code and ALL meters whether from PSE&G or JCP&L come with detox preinstalled on the lugs. No need to add anymore. Just an FYI
So with that distribution set up, any loads that will require 240 volts, will only receive 208 volts? 120x 1.73=208 volts for 3 phase service. This residence will only be using 2 legs of 3 phase service which will still be giving 208 volts. But this house is just a single phase 240/120 volt single phase set up. How’s this ok?
Most of your stuff is meant to run on both. Most apartment buildings are 120/208. I bet bigger fancier fridges and stoves might lot be but just an unusual set up is all
Hey Ron, great work, as always. Curious if you ever have to deal with cranky residents in neighboring houses when you have to work in such tight confines between the properties?
Hi Ron, I am a electrician and I just got my license in California 4 months ago, but I am struggling to get jobs, customers or go contractors want the job cheap. What tips can you give me. Thanks I like the videos.
Hi Ron, love your videos. I noticed when you were splicing back the live wires your hand was close to the downspout. Is there any danger of you touching the downspout and getting shocked ?
Yes, in all likely hood there is a path to ground from the aluminum water leaders so you would definitely get shocked should the two surfaces meet. Don't give the electrons a path to flow and you won't get hurt.
Great video ron as usual, been subbed for some time now. Had a question on your customers and how you find them to get work??? Obviously i know about advertising and all that stuff but was curious what your specific method was. Thanks bro !!! Happy New year !!
When you put in the work, the results will come. The harder I work, the luckier I am. Tell everyone you know that you are a professional electrician and word will spread like wildfire but you have to be good at it and persevere at all costs. Build trust by showing up on time, doing what you say you're going to do, and clean up after you are finished. Take your trash with you and always, always, always employ drop clothes and respect peoples property. Also, if you are really just starting out then don't be afraid to do there work that others don't want to do because if you that ONE THING you will always have work!!!!
@electricalron I have been an electrician for 21 years outta philly. Never went on my own and was thinking about it. I will be 40 soon so times moving fast ya know. The one thing that always steered me out of it was the customer side. Like I always get plenty of side work all these years just was thinking like if that runs dry a bit where ya go from there on your own ya know. Thanks for the reply Ron !!!!
Usually that’s what many do. One thing to watch for or ask is that you don’t lose too much service drop length. You can have it all inspected and waiting for the service move.
If it was here in New Jersey then yes, it would need to be brought up to code including while house surge protection to safeguard your wiring and branch circuits from dangerous surges that could really wreak havoc @@curtlundcramer9424
Mikey, I'll bet that thing works great. I'm hoping Milwaukee will send me one to test out for the viewers. Milwaukee is a BIG SPONSOR of the NJ-IEC and we have an inside representative but I don't want to bother him with my personal stuff. I know the rep has the link to my channel and so maybe in 2024!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I know the Milwaukee rep that covers PA and NJ. He actually let me demo his for a little while before I made my decision. I’m sure I can make that happen for you!
Hi Electrician Ron I have a question for you do electricians still do Home Burglar Alarm pre-wiring in new construction Homes Just curios Let me know thank you.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey OK, thank you for letting me know I plan on starring my own alarm company called Rory’s alarms like you see on my TH-cam channel that’s the name. My alarm company is gonna be and it will specialize in that as well.
Hi. In jersey how much is this service? Trying to not get taken advantage of. I have guys already working on my house and they're saying I need this service for an addtional 3k, is this reasonable?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey That makes a lot of sense. Here in Ohio we don't have a lot of oceans around so it's not much of a concern, lol. I'm guessing you would use 2/0 copper for 200 amp service in that case?
Try to avoid grounding to water pipes. Use grounding rods if possible. I've gotten too many water main failures due to electrolytic erosion when transformer neutrals have deviated from zero.
It's two legs of a 120/208 3 phase system. This is common in commercial and larger apartment areas. You might even have a 3 phase delta with a grounded leg. You did nothing wrong. 120 degrees phase angle between legs in a 3 phase system, so you have sin(120)=0.866 then multiply that by 240 and you get 208 volts.
I dont have an open delta service here. Yes I know they exist but this is not that. This is a mid-span service drop from a 120/ 208 Wye connected service (utility supply, if you will). Three transformers on the utility pole.
I know of a job I wasn't there, but the guys pulled their stone off pulling in wires and when they got to the end realized the wires were wrapped around a pole.
Is touching the bare neutral in the panel in the beginning of this video potentially dangerous if the utility neutral has a problem? I would think if there is an imbalance between the loads on the two phases, there could be current flowing through it without a proper utility neutral.
Touching one wire is not a problem as birds has demonstrated by stepping on single wires atop the energy posts. If the hot wired has been disconnected prior then the neutral is not pulling any load from inside the house.
I didn't touch anything until after I tested it with my testers. The homeowners had told me the utility was there the night prior and re-attached a loose neutral. Current will always return to the source and if the neutral IS NOT AVAILABLE it will return via the grounding electrode(s). And yes, than there IS POTENTIAL between the copper water pipe and someone holding the pipe and standing on the basement floor. Very dangerous situation. This also happens when dopes connect a neutral pigtail from a smart device directly to the box like you would an equipment grounding conductor in a metal box.
@@persona250 Hence the rubber boots and fiberglass ladder to insulate from ground. And I start to understand the why in NJ they use PVC pipes like outdoor riser for electric wiring. You prevent accidental grounding if you get in contact touching those pipes.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I mean as a self employed electrician. How do you get your insurance? Who do you buy it through. I am wondering because in the future I will need to get my own.
The utility doesn’t make me use anything. Butt splices are the easiest for me to work with up on the ladder. They’re most likely going to cut these out soon anyway.
Ron, I appreciate your professionalism and how you go beyond the code requirements and in this video post excerpts from the code to clarify minimum requirements. Your pride in your workmanship shines through, May the god of electricity smile on you in 2024.
Thank you, Mack!
I know of one residential house near here that has 208, right across from the phone company But in this territory mostly only large businesses get 208 3 phase, smaller places get high leg delta so no problem feeding a house off that. 208 volts = 75% power on heating elements, take the oven longer to come up to temp, dryer probably you would not notice since duty cycle only about 50% when up to temp anyway, air conditioners all dual rated.
I had a compressor in my garage that worked fine for years. All of a sudden, it began popping the breaker. I also noticed a much higher voltage on one leg of the service. After numerous calls to our utility, they sent out a tech who pulled the meter and put on an artificial load. He found arcing on the neutral at the pole! No problems since but what a weird thing to happen.
Unfortunately, it's all too common.
Ron, before I cut the service cable hot legs I wrap tape on first then do my cut. This helps avoid dropping the tape when pulling it out of your pocket or pouches. This avoids climbing down the ladder with a exposed hot leg. Only took me one time to learn that lesson.
On the SE utility connection, I always use a ceramic cat head instead of a plain hook. Just my two cents. Love your vids and even as an old electrician I always pick up a thing or two. Keep up the great work, Ron!
Hi Ron. I really enjoy your videos. I am a licensed electrician but not working in the trade except for work that I do for myself and family/friends. So your videos help keep me current. I am also a licensed plumber and gas fitter. In this particular video I noticed to the right at the ceiling of there was yellow flexible gas pipe (CSST) that may not have been bonded. It is important to bond this pipe that is only .008” to protect it from lightning strikes which otherwise could cause fire and explosions. So when you see this pipe in a home you may want to recommend to clients having the pipe bonded.
The black CSST has a bonding strip inside and does not have to be bonded. The only CSST that should be bonded is yellow.
The short gas pipe connectors behind appliances look similar but are not the same and do not have to be bonded.
Thanks again!
Larry D.
Very good observation Larry. I didn't notice the CCST when I was there but did see it in the video, oddly enough. I'll be back to this house later next month so I will check to see if the bond was made at the installation.
Love your video Ron, i am a utility company troubleshooter, i have been to many jobs of open neutral, phase down or low voltage that a electrician who reponded to customer call, sold them a service upgrade. Then calls utility to repair actual problem. Then i stand in front of customer, while they ask me what did i pay electrician for? Truthfully i make up a story that they all new equipment with plenty of space for car chargers etc....
The biggest trouble with this call was the utility lost a neutral and damaged a lot of equipment inside the house. I don't know the extent of the damage but I'll be going back there to changeout some old non-tamper resistant receptacles, GFCI's, and I'm sure other unlicensed hack work.
Great video. The camera resolution is very good, so we can see what is being done. I like the NEC reference printed out on screen. I remember things better when I see them. I got a laugh out of your experience of trapping the ladder after spicing onto the utility wires! Everybody has done mistakes like that too.
Ron is the MAN when it comes to electrical installations. Always a great job. Thanks Ron.
Thanks Bob!
29:07 I'd love to just go get my license.. doesnt it take years of apprenticeship, etc though still?
That floating neutral is unpredictable. I had a residential service that had a bad neutral connection at the drop. The customer complaint initially were some branch circuits not working. I checked the voltage at the the. 200 amp panel using a digital meter and got a reading of 800+ volts which blew the meter. The utility came out and replaced the lug on the neutral. Again your work is great! Enjoy all of your videos.
800 volts? I don’t think that’s even possible from 120/240 nominal secondary.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I didn’t either, it’s possible the reading was thrown off from the floating neutral, however it read over 800 and stopped working🤷🏼♂
Funny when you tied in the service conductors with them through the rungs haha. Yes in 45 years I have made many dumb mistakes mostly when I am doing something for the thousandth time and I am thinking of other things.
Of course
Great video! They're brave. You don't use gloves tying into the hotline. Keep up the good work. Thank you
You should get yourself an impact gun, I like the Milwaukee surge as it's quieter. They are lighter and better on the battery. This is the 1st video of yours I have seen , I like how you add the code in the video. That's a nice touch. Subscribed.
I have done lot of service upgrades and never used 4" long screws to secure service cable. Excessive length could pierce a wire or worst yet a water supply line inside of walls. Always taped the bare grounded conductor both inside of meter can ( white tape ) and at weather head ( two laps of Scotch 33 black tape ) . The black scotch 33 tape that I used at my weather head bare wire almost 40 years ago holding up good out in the sun, rain , heat & cold. I had a dedicated steel brush to brush the paste deep into aluminum strands. Keep it in a heavy freezer bag to keep it clean. Years ago PECO would give you quality center bolt bugs to connect services. Had to sign for them but every once in awhile would have one of their bucket trucks on a job and they would give me a bunch of the two sizes they had.
You tape the uninsulated grounded neutral? Lol what for? That makes no sense. 4” long screws are necessary because of the 2-3 finishes on an old house. Water pipes are never run on the exterior walls of a house because they would freeze.
Rookie journeyman here in TX. EARNED my sub sir. Excellent work, but "Go get your license " put it over for me. So many unlicensed hacks around my area doing really shoddy/unsafe work. Thanks sir!
I enjoy watching your videos and the difference in how things are done. I live in British Columbia. All services connects and disconnects have to be done the local utility . I notice that you attach cable directly to the wall . Our standard is all conductors above ground have to be in conduit. Underground can be direct burial or in a conduit.
Cool, thanks
You are super lucky to have such lenient codes here where I’m at in Illinois they want rigid pipe all the way from the weather head down to the panel. I wish we could do it like you.
No fluff, no BS, these videos are the real deal, what it’s like to actually be on the job. Super helpful to watch a seasoned pro getting it done.
Ron: I get nervous sending 2-3” screws in for straps, that I’ll hit something. Ever a concern for you?
Normally, things like water pipes are not run inside the house on an exterior wall because they’d freeze. So no, I don’t worry too much.
Good job Ron! Nice of you to work on Saturday. Stay safe!
I thought the video transition at 7:57 was the vinyl siding falling down on you! And I know handling the service feed is safe because you are insulated, but it still freak me out a bit. A few years ago we had to replace our meter box - water leak had corroded the lugs and we lost one leg to the house. Our electrician run his pvc heat box directly from the service feed, which I found fascinating
17:45 Just curious why you are using 4" screws, wouldn't they only be effective if you were to hit a stud? The top of that screw has 1.5" of no threads, once it is in all the way it is not even grabbing the sheathing on the wall unless you hit a stud. I might even be concerned about hitting a wire inside a wall.
Hey Ron, Happy New Year to you and your family. Funny, I have a 32’ Werner fiberglass ladder in my garage that’s only been used twice. Let me know if you are ever down around exit #2 of the NJTP we can talk 🥳🥳🥳🥳
Happy new year!
Hey Ron, first, happy new year!! So, in that connection of wires with the grid, it will be not better remove the existing splice so that there is only one splice, thus avoiding hot spots?
Congratulation, Nice job.
Appreciate your videos,I am starting in the electrical field and planning to get into refrigeration and your videos help a lot.Thanks.
Refrigeration and electrical goes hand-in-hand. HVAC controls is also a great career path. Never stop learning and thanks for watching these videos.
Wow. Copper service cable. Priced 4/0 copper SEU cable 40 years ago and it was $1 an inch ( $12 a foot ) and Billows electric only stocked it in one of their 12 locations., the one down at the Jersey shore.
Ron, great videos, do you have any videos of a service upgrade where the service cable comes to the roof over head, but goes down thru the inside wall to the panel? All services in your area seem to be on exterior of house?
I have a 200 AMP Mast Service upgrade found here: th-cam.com/video/2exwe2Fga3w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7p6635I9Yav7PtsD
Yea they should all be outside. If there is a fire they have to cut the power before putting water on it and shouldn’t enter house without water
Just wondering why you didn't slip behind the (presumably) telecom cabling at 19:30? Looks a little messy going over the top like that in my opinion.
Wow! Great video/work! And discussion! 👌👍
Thank you.
Love the video and the code references on screen are pretty cool. I always get a little pucker factor when I have to work with live conductors or see someone work on them even though I know what is being done is safe, I have the greatest respect for those that do it every day. I have hooked rg6 messenger cable through my ladder more than a few times I would like to admit, it's always a pain to go back and undo it since there can't be any break in the cable before the ground block we could never do a splice outside even if there was enough slack to create drip loops.
I love the content, you are a trusted source for knowledge and practices.
Thank you!
Ron what weather head are you using, I can’t seem to find it online to order? Are metallic ones in that style code compliant like the pvc?
You can also put referral/affiliate links to your products and tools used if people were looking for them.
Great video Ron. Any chance on doing a video on how you write up an invoice for a customer?
That’s private tbh.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey oh ok I apologize. I guess I was more just interested in understanding how you itemize a job on paper when you give it to a customer. Like whether to break down all the costs involved in the job or just keep it simple and write 200A service upgrade for example.
Good job and well done. I especially like your explanation of the electric code and its applications. Thanks for sharing
I sincerely appreciate that. Thank you and happy new year to you!
That was great video, camera angle on ladder was great. When you connected live wires on ladder,is that the reason you could handle them because you were on fiberglass ladder so you were not grounded?
Correct. Current in the conductor had no path to flow. No conductive path to flow.
Curious the utilities out there supply the meter sockets . Here in MA we have to supply them, also we have to have an outside emergency shut off outside, for single and duplex dwelling units. Looks like New Jersey doesn't require.
They do provide meter enclosures but this was kind of an emergency repair so I just bought one. A permit number is required in order to get the meter enclosure and I still dont have the permit for this job. I've applied for one but it hasn't been processed as of yet.
hi Ron your video very helpful and I'm just curios to touch the service entrance how do I protect myself when I touch the service line ? thanks
My neighbours have 208vac, theres a pump house on their side of the steeet, you can see the 3 hots ans neutral that each house is connectes to. My house is 240 fed from a backlane with dedicated transformers every X number of houses.
Just did a similar job the other day. Mine though lost the neutral between the meter base and breaker panel . Since we had to replace the service cable from meter base to the inside the AHJ required us to add a disconnect outside and we went ahead and replaced service mast , meter base and added disconnect along with new ground rods and put it in conduit outside as I don’t like not putting it in conduit and that was what caused the issue originally because the outer sheathing had failed and was letting water into cable . When I cut cable inside house to attach to to pull it out and new one in ( had a finished bedroom between meter base and panel and we lucked up and got the old cable pulled out with the new one attached to it since someone had bored oversized holes in the joist originally ) water poured out of service cable and neutral conductors were corroded in to and just pulled out in pieces .
Yes. Obviously the service-entrance cable WAS NOT INSTALLED PROPERLY.
Yea that junk doesn’t take long to rot then you have an exposed neutral. Such a shotty product
Ron, great work as always 💪🏼
As far as working for yourself: what do you do about medical insurance?
I used to have to pay for it out of pocket but now I am covered under my wife's medical plan.
Happy New Year Ron another great install, why don't you use USEI wire more often than using conduit and wire ?
Because of concerns to protect the conductors from physical damage. For instance, I cannot use SE-cable when a meter is in close proximity with a driveway, or car port. Stuff like that.
Ron, great video. Happy New Year. Hopefully 2024 will be all it can be. Best regards from Chicago
Great video. Excellent work. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
You'll be a lot happier up on a ladder driving Torx drive screws like that. Love the code references you put up Ron.
I've been using 2 1/2" exterior coarse screws forever.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I just can't stomach phillips drive screws anymore. They cam out, they strip. Friggin' pain in the ass. Thanks for the vids from an ex-Jersey boy (Trenton area - Ewing) now in Colorado.
I just use hex head Tapcons for literally everything. 🥳 unless there’s an overwhelming desire or need for them to be flush finish. then…it’s torx
Did you miss the missing plastic protection at the incoming lines in the main panel - your were inspecting it... ?
I’m not sure who put that panel in or when. The covers over the lugs is a relatively new code requirement.
Very nice job!
Thank you very much!
Hi Ron - The part where you cut the live wires coming from the street or the transformer scares me. Can you explain how you are able to cut those wires without getting shock or maybe you can do a short video explaining? Thanks.@@electricianron_New_Jersey
@@owenjennings8575 Current leaves the source and returns to the source. Do not give the electrons a path to flow and you won’t get shocked/ electrocuted.
Have you added any emergency disconnect switches on the outside of homes in combination with a meter pan replacement in PSE&G territory? It would be nice to have a meter-main panel with meter pan and integrated 200A breaker as emergency and service disconnect, but I can’t find if PSE&G allows that. Thanks, great to hear your NJ specific knowledge.
I don't think I've done a full upgrade in either territory since 9/6 when the full requirement went into effect. For some reason they do not like the meter/ main combos and I wish I knew why.
They dont allow them here either. One reason I’ve been told is it makes it even less likely someone will replace the meter socket when the jaws wear out. You usually can’t get new replacement jaws within a few years. There are other reasons too. But the outside disconnects are the code now and they will be making them be added if there are any changes to the service conductors or socket add one
Do you ever use a torque wrench for the tightening the lugs ?
Happy new year to you, Ron all your videos are awesome
Thanks Greg I’m grateful that you enjoy them. HNY!!
Bro you the master, I like you working, niceeeeeee and cleaner, take you time to do any job I like that my name is Rafael Paulino I live in Florida, I start following you video, I electrician too
I have never seen a 120/208 single phase Residential service in my 28 years in the Trade. We do have a lot of 3phase 120/208volt high-leg Delta Commercial services here in the Portland
This is not a delta system. There is no HIGH LEG. It’s a single phase service from a 120/208 Wye configuration.
Hey brother what I learned to get better tongue on the part which you were installing the straps up too, just use a better drill with less fasteners.. one long but instead of that drywall attachment and those other attachments.. or just get closer with one medium size bit.. especially since you’re up in heights.. I enjoyed this video 🤜🏽🤛🏽
Another great video and Happy New Year's May 2024 bring you lots of joy and happiness
Thank you! HNY to you too!
Great video.
My bowling center, pinsetters uses "universal" 208v. Pinsetters use them anyway.
There are some old neighborhoods where I am located and they have the same voltage in those areas also.
Great detail on the list neutral. It not an easy concept to grasp.
Hey Ron, Love your videos. Have you ever had an issue with pseg making you re-do a point of attachment to accommodate the larger wires they will use as the new service drop?
No, that’s PSEG territory.
Ron it finally clicked! You remind me of Larry miller the comedian! Ever since I started watching your vids you reminded me of someone and it was him! Lmao keep up the great work and content!
Not sure who Larry Miller is but I am a fan of Jim Florentine, Don Jamieson, and Big J Oakerson.
Did one on these in chicago. Had to carry a 2 inch ridgid pipe up the ladder and thread it on. I weighs about 40lb
I don't work with 2" or 2.5" RMC often but when I do I eat my Wheaties and question the amount for a 10' stick!
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Happy New Year. What is size gauge wire in this video ?
4/0 Aluminum SEU
Good work Ron
It's always good practice all around to use anti-ox on ALL of your AL conductors. Over the years they have made a lot of saftey improvements in the alloys specifically used for electrical applications, but AL can still oxidize, especially if outdoors, or in humid areas.
I’ve seen this in residential distribution system. It occurs if the loading and phase angle between the phases isn’t perfect. High inductive or capacitive load will cause the phase angle to shift. Each phase is 120 vac and across the phases will be 208vac. I would have the utility check either the transfer or the loading on each phase.
How can the phase angle between phases be off ? It’s set at 120 degrees at the generator in the power station .
@@persona250 the generator sets it at 120 degrees . A transformer can be designed to set the voltage 180 degrees apart. On High Voltage lines the phase angle of 120 degrees can be sifted up to 5 degrees either way. To get 240 volts the phases have to be 180 degrees opposite. Load currents of different type of loads can shift the angle . It comes down to the anglular different between the current and voltage.
Imagine adding a single phase panel from a three phase 120/ 208 service. The double pole circuits in the single phase panel would be 208V across both legs. That's what they have here.
Ron sounds like the power co. Just tap the house service off a 120/208 3 phase bank not ideal for a residential property. As a lineman of 31 years from a municipal utility we would never tap a residential property off a power bank. Obviously they just used 2 phases. Keep up the fabulous videos.
It’s weird right?
The cables u took off at the beginning of the video were they live or the power was off ?
Yes, they're live.
Happy New Year Ron! What kind of drill bit were you using when screwing in clips?
#2 Phillips
To my fellow NJ electrical contractor. Where is the outdoor disconnect for the service which is required but code and ALL meters whether from PSE&G or JCP&L come with detox preinstalled on the lugs. No need to add anymore. Just an FYI
To my fellow NJ EC: the service disconnect is not required unless you are upgrading the entire service.
Have they hit you with the article 230.67 yet 🤦🏻♂️ codes just keeps digging into our profit margins
@@e-tekelectric433 of course! The DCA adopted 230.67 on 9/6/23.
Hi ron. Do you have the link to the butt splice and the rubber tape. Thx
@@aihf3063 supply house!
You don't use a torque wrench for the meter socket lugs?
No, I don’t. Do you?
So with that distribution set up, any loads that will require 240 volts, will only receive 208 volts? 120x 1.73=208 volts for 3 phase service. This residence will only be using 2 legs of 3 phase service which will still be giving 208 volts. But this house is just a single phase 240/120 volt single phase set up. How’s this ok?
Most of your stuff is meant to run on both. Most apartment buildings are 120/208. I bet bigger fancier fridges and stoves might lot be but just an unusual set up is all
In HVAC a common goof Is flaring without a flare nut. Pants first then boots.
Excellent work.
Hey Ron, great work, as always. Curious if you ever have to deal with cranky residents in neighboring houses when you have to work in such tight confines between the properties?
Sometimes
Hi Ron, I am a electrician and I just got my license in California 4 months ago, but I am struggling to get jobs, customers or go contractors want the job cheap. What tips can you give me. Thanks I like the videos.
Just do good work consistently and word will spread like wildfire. Do not under sell yourself.
I work around brooklyn ny its very common on residential houses to have 208v
Most of the appliance equipment found in a home is dual-rated 208/ 240 anyway so no big deal.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey true
Hi Ron, love your videos. I noticed when you were splicing back the live wires your hand was close to the downspout. Is there any danger of you touching the downspout and getting shocked ?
Yes, in all likely hood there is a path to ground from the aluminum water leaders so you would definitely get shocked should the two surfaces meet. Don't give the electrons a path to flow and you won't get hurt.
Great video ron as usual, been subbed for some time now. Had a question on your customers and how you find them to get work??? Obviously i know about advertising and all that stuff but was curious what your specific method was. Thanks bro !!! Happy New year !!
When you put in the work, the results will come. The harder I work, the luckier I am. Tell everyone you know that you are a professional electrician and word will spread like wildfire but you have to be good at it and persevere at all costs. Build trust by showing up on time, doing what you say you're going to do, and clean up after you are finished. Take your trash with you and always, always, always employ drop clothes and respect peoples property. Also, if you are really just starting out then don't be afraid to do there work that others don't want to do because if you that ONE THING you will always have work!!!!
@electricalron I have been an electrician for 21 years outta philly. Never went on my own and was thinking about it. I will be 40 soon so times moving fast ya know. The one thing that always steered me out of it was the customer side. Like I always get plenty of side work all these years just was thinking like if that runs dry a bit where ya go from there on your own ya know. Thanks for the reply Ron !!!!
Love your videos!
Thanks Matt!
Never see. 120/208 in a residential house. Only commercial. Did you notify jcpl?
Yeah I was on hold for 2 days.
Can I Install a new main breaker,meter base etc. next to the existing one before cutting service off and removing the old one?
Usually that’s what many do. One thing to watch for or ask is that you don’t lose too much service drop length. You can have it all inspected and waiting for the service move.
Like your vidéo got a question I need to move my panel it 100w if the rebuild it do they still need to do up to code
Different in each state. Check with your bldg dept.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey ok I start talking to my city but it so long to get a answer lol
If it was here in New Jersey then yes, it would need to be brought up to code including while house surge protection to safeguard your wiring and branch circuits from dangerous surges that could really wreak havoc @@curtlundcramer9424
Hey Ron. I finally broke down and got the M18 linear utility crimper….got a free M18 wire stripper kit for buying it as well
Mikey, I'll bet that thing works great. I'm hoping Milwaukee will send me one to test out for the viewers. Milwaukee is a BIG SPONSOR of the NJ-IEC and we have an inside representative but I don't want to bother him with my personal stuff. I know the rep has the link to my channel and so maybe in 2024!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I know the Milwaukee rep that covers PA and NJ. He actually let me demo his for a little while before I made my decision. I’m sure I can make that happen for you!
@eletricialron…just noticed the last part of your reply haha. I wonder if it’s the same one I know!
@@Mikey_The_Electrician guys name is Dylan!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey oh okay. The rep I know is Jerry!
Im surprised that you are not required to provide mechanical protection for the seu cable, especially below the meter pan.
@@michaelw123 it’s done like this routinely in the northeast.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I’m in NY. AHJ requires it.
Hi Electrician Ron I have a question for you do electricians still do Home Burglar Alarm pre-wiring in new construction Homes Just curios Let me know thank you.
Usually not. I have a license but there are company’s that specialize in that.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey OK, thank you for letting me know I plan on starring my own alarm company called Rory’s alarms like you see on my TH-cam channel that’s the name. My alarm company is gonna be and it will specialize in that as well.
If you didn't use SE Cable, what would you use?
Probably PVC, EMT, or Rigid Metallic Conduit.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey thank you for answering
Hi. In jersey how much is this service? Trying to not get taken advantage of. I have guys already working on my house and they're saying I need this service for an addtional 3k, is this reasonable?
@@tlakeee3720 That’s kind of low if you ask me. 200A upgrades start at $4k and go up to $6k in some cases.
I did not see you run ground rods for the service
That’s because I did not install any ground rods.
Copper SEU, that's crazy to see. I've known it existed but I've never seen it in person.
@@handles_are_dumb_01 I live near the Atlantic Ocean and my supply house stocks it because aluminum turns to dust in short order along the coast.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey That makes a lot of sense. Here in Ohio we don't have a lot of oceans around so it's not much of a concern, lol.
I'm guessing you would use 2/0 copper for 200 amp service in that case?
Try to avoid grounding to water pipes. Use grounding rods if possible. I've gotten too many water main failures due to electrolytic erosion when transformer neutrals have deviated from zero.
Try loosening your hat, it’s on way too tight.
It's two legs of a 120/208 3 phase system. This is common in commercial and larger apartment areas. You might even have a 3 phase delta with a grounded leg. You did nothing wrong. 120 degrees phase angle between legs in a 3 phase system, so you have sin(120)=0.866 then multiply that by 240 and you get 208 volts.
I dont have an open delta service here. Yes I know they exist but this is not that. This is a mid-span service drop from a 120/ 208 Wye connected service (utility supply, if you will). Three transformers on the utility pole.
I know of a job I wasn't there, but the guys pulled their stone off pulling in wires and when they got to the end realized the wires were wrapped around a pole.
Don't forget to make a new video introducing your new ladder!! 😂
Ha ha. Yeah. Have you ever handled a 32' ext. ladder? It's the real deal, for sure.
Great job 👍
Thank you.
Is touching the bare neutral in the panel in the beginning of this video potentially dangerous if the utility neutral has a problem? I would think if there is an imbalance between the loads on the two phases, there could be current flowing through it without a proper utility neutral.
Touching one wire is not a problem as birds has demonstrated by stepping on single wires atop the energy posts. If the hot wired has been disconnected prior then the neutral is not pulling any load from inside the house.
I didn't touch anything until after I tested it with my testers. The homeowners had told me the utility was there the night prior and re-attached a loose neutral. Current will always return to the source and if the neutral IS NOT AVAILABLE it will return via the grounding electrode(s). And yes, than there IS POTENTIAL between the copper water pipe and someone holding the pipe and standing on the basement floor. Very dangerous situation. This also happens when dopes connect a neutral pigtail from a smart device directly to the box like you would an equipment grounding conductor in a metal box.
@@johnnychang4233birds are not stood on ground when they are touching wires . Ron was
@@persona250 Hence the rubber boots and fiberglass ladder to insulate from ground. And I start to understand the why in NJ they use PVC pipes like outdoor riser for electric wiring. You prevent accidental grounding if you get in contact touching those pipes.
@@johnnychang4233 he’s talking about touching the wire inside the panel .
What do you do for health insurance Ron?
I pay for it. Why would you ask me this?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I mean as a self employed electrician. How do you get your insurance? Who do you buy it through. I am wondering because in the future I will need to get my own.
That would work but we use a different meter but not on a house because it is a three phase service
Also don’t you love how they cut that j Chanel to funnel in the water to rot the board behind the socket
So the utility makes you use butt splices? Can’t use H taps and press it?
The utility doesn’t make me use anything. Butt splices are the easiest for me to work with up on the ladder. They’re most likely going to cut these out soon anyway.
Hey Ron your Cousing is Tosone electric in Bloomfield ?
Do you know him?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey no, my friend Keith work for him.
Small world isn't it? @@luislazogue8089
Well done sir
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thank you!