I’m glad you kept stressing not a how to video! As a retired High Voltage Power Plant engineer who has seen some violent explosions due to human error a service entrance might look simple, but a nick on L1 or L2 could energize the whole steel sheeting on the building.
Not boring, Kyle. I like watching such videos. You meticulously build a clean electrical system. Your video editing reveals the best parts. Thanks for sharing:)
I really enjoyed the serious craftsmanship and perfect execution here. You really mastered your craft and it shows every second - it's just a joy to see something done right. I like people who know what they're doing.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC When I see you work, I can see the quality of it and that it is just done perfectly to a point. And it doesn't seem to take too much extra time - so I can't understand anyone doing it differently. Even more so, if I have to pay for the work. You even managed to make your cavemen US installations look like a quality product! 😁
I will never do this myself, but it was super interesting to learn about what all the various components are called, how it all fits together, etc. As usual, nice clean look. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Nice clean work. You made it look easy but, you are right about working some of that wire. May be over kill but, I installed 2 grounding rods for my garage to make sure.
I used to work with an electrician, he had a different name for the “knockout fillers”, he called them “uh ohs”. They fixed the “uh ohs” of removing the wrong knockout.
WOW, Pretty Awesome walk through on the mechanical's and Nice quality work 20yrs + Thanks for explaining each piece and going the extra , most vids show the main hookup and call it good. LOL. I like the grounding JPS100 strap very cool and how you double clamped it with one down in the hole. Thank you. Also what happen no Green wire? I know you used it All on the "MACHINE" 😛✌ You attract the bugs too!
Good video. !! I have found it best to never land the neutral and grounds of pending branch circuits on the same buss even if this is the first point of disconnect. Let the grounding screw do exactly what it was intended to do. That way should this ever become the second point of disconnect, "such as if a emergency disconnected is installed later for the first responders / firemen" to use, then you don't have to go back and separate the neutrals and grounds all you have to do is remove the grounding screw and they are all automatically separated.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC Good video. A question. I know the main means of disconnect would have the nuetrals and grounds are bonded by the bonding screw. Why would you have the outside meter can also have the ground and nuetral also bonded? Shouldnt the ground screw be left out and have the inside panel , have grounds and nuetral separate.Is that some update to your code? Watching from the Caribbean
@richstarstar thats not the main ground in the meter can. Thats the GEC which is in place for surges and lighting protection. Its not the return path. I explained everything in another comment if you want to check it out.
Ready to install a sub panel in my shop! “Question ?” If my service box is 140’ from the shop, what size of wire I need to connect!! Thanks! This video did help! Thanks for sharing! And keep them coming! 👍👌
Kyle - figured as much - you always show the attention to detail. Again, great video! I'll definitely be looking at this when I run power into my future shop build.
Kyle, The dohicky on the outside under the thingamabob is too much to the left. You put the whatchamacallit upside down on top of the shiny thingy on the inside. 😂 Other than that, excellent work. 👍😎
Interesting. I had meter bases installed on two different buildings and they use bare copper wire for the ground, and not in a conduit. They also put in two ground rods 6 or 8 feet apart. Only other difference is my county requires a disconnect at the meter, which I (as a consumer and not an electrician) prefer. Not sure if they used those conduit grounding lugs or not, but those are slick.
Great. A question I have a disconnect in the garage for 220v box welder with two 30 amp buss fuses and I want to run a 120v 30amp for a small welder. Any suggestions.
Its plenty big enough for 2/0 and 3/0. The local utility company will spec what size they require. Ours was 2”. You could set the panel first and have the threads sticking out of the exterior wall. You could then seal it and place the meter can over it. Then install your lock ring and bushing.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC Thanks man. I'm also needing to ditch the solar horse arena lights that got destroyed in hurricane and move to an overhead hardwire lighting solution. Not interested in trenching 600' around arena to land electric up each of the 6 telephone poles. Have you used Triplex Overhead wire before? Can't seem to find anything smaller than 6-6-6 which is way overkill for 1000watts of LED parking lot lights.
Awesome stuff sir. Question. Where can you get replacement lugs for the main line 1 and 2 wires. Bought two service panels and 2 lugs were missing. Bought them and they sat in storage for a while past the return dates. I can't find anyone that knows even asked a few electricians in the area. 🤘
Unfortunately youll likely have to rob them from another panel. Thats probably what happened to the ones that you bought. Someone took the lugs and returned it or sold the rest of the panel. Might be able to find some on ebay.
Appreciate the time and reply. You are not the only one who thinks that so I was curious. I work for Eaton on the Industrial side so always nice to get feedback on our products OR competitors.
@Jnshaw81 i had a lot of issues with eaton and Siemen over torquing the bolt on breakers when we ordered panels with breakers. Had to drill out the bolts on multiple occasions. Other than that they are fine.
Awesome, glad to hear Idaho and N.Cal are exactly the same codes. I think thats what you said. Wasnt really listening. lol. Awesome video, actually just getting ready to do the same. Question for you, Ive got 3 phase available, but not sure if I want to run that in the shop, or just do single phase. Not any specific plans to use 3 phase, but who knows. What would you do?
@@dcmotive depends on what your plans are in your shop and if you plan on staying. Having 3 phase will be great for resale but everything about it will be more expensive. You may also have an issue running some of your 240v single phase equipment because 3 phase is 120/208. Generally you need to be within 10 percent of the nameplate voltage on the equipment. If you have no plans of running larger equipment i would just stick with single phase. You would have the option of installing a transformer to get 120/240 single phase if a certain piece of equipment required it.
Man I love your vids glad I found ya! I haven't done a new service meter/ panel install in 20 years but you mentioned that the lugs with the plastic connectors may snap and to be careful when installing. Is there a torque setting you can use to avoid this? Machine!
Kyle, got a question on the ridged conduit . Between the meter box and the panel, could you have used sch80, or does it HAVE to be ridged because of the metal siding? Nice job tho. And I KNOW ya cut 3 ft off that Ground Rod!!!!😂
M A C H I N E. Ribs(not for pleasure)😂😂. Not boring at all bro. It's folks that can actually do instead of just flap their jaws about it that makes the world go around
@@joselara6989 emt is not rated for direct bury. Only one ground rod in Indiana. Thats why i stated at the beginning my location and where you are may differ.
Why wouldn't you use pvc fittings to pass through the meter base into the barn? i.e pvc box adapter & pvc male connector. You just made an extra step that's not necessary. No OZ bonding needed with pvc pass through.
@SpicerDesignsLLC Of course I can use what ever I want. Im not coming at you with judgment if that's how you read it I wanted you're logic on why that step was made and you said" better install" but didn't explain anything, but that's ok I don't see a pvc pass through changing the integrity of the install but yeah use what ever you want, everyone does things just a little different in this trade but the same outcome is always achieved.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC I have a serious question. does your PC require the ground to be bonded in the meter cause technically that would make the meter the first place the grounding and grounded conductors are bonded making it the first disconnecting means and thus make the panel the sub panel. technically you can disconnect at the meter but its normally locked behind the tag I've always heard that it's better to terminate the GEC in the main panel next to the neutral as you had it so if it needed to be repaired or something it can be with calling the power company. Genuine question I have always ran it to the panel and never been called on it and always passed inspection.
Just depends on what state you live in and what version of code theyre using. Ive never heard of the meter can being considered the first means of disconnect. I had a long discussion with someone else in the comments where i explained everything. The GEC is not the main ground. Its specifically for lightning protection and surges. The neutral coming in from the utility company is the main ground. Thats why they are bonded in the main panel to avoid and difference in potential.
Surprised you have the grounding electrode conductor terminated in the meter enclosure. Here you need to be able to visually inspect it on the customer side.
@@Roadglide2020. your incorrect. Look at the meter again. There isnt even a hub on top. Thats was provided by the REMC. And it can come in on the left or right depending on what side the feed is coming from. Maybe in your state its different. This install is exactly right.
I called Duke Energy about putting power in my building, They wanted to put 200 Amp in, I did everything they wanted, said it was wrong I told them that I only need 100 Amp now they want me to change the 200 Amp meter base to a 100 Amp meter base wat is the difference?
You are incorrect. Like i said at the beginning of the video. Maybe they do it different where you live. This was inspected by the county and the utility provider. Been doing it like this (per code) for almost 20 years now.
@MrTooTechnical i do not agree. It sounds like your treating the grounding electrode conductor as equal to the split phase system ground/ neutral. The grounding electrode is specifically for lightning protection, surges and contact with high voltage. Where it lands in the meter can with the split phase system neutral/ ground is not considered bonding. The bonding can only happen in the enclosure that contains the first means of disconnect to bond the split phase system to the enclosure. Which prevents a difference in potential between the neutral and any grounded equipment after the first means of disconnect. I think you’re grouping the different type grounds together and treating them the same which is incorrect. Hopefully that clears up the confusion.
I know! Shes so busy with the girls and coaching its hard to get her in the videos. Hoping to make up for it with livestreams. They will be coming soon.
Here is the best electrician tool kit you can buy: amazon affiliate link amzn.to/3YXxaVJ
Lineman for 43 years, why electricians don't use a hook knife and azz hole cutters always baffled me ??? great video otherwise A+
Some of them do. I was never a fan of the hook knife.
I’m glad you kept stressing not a how to video! As a retired High Voltage Power Plant engineer who has seen some violent explosions due to human error a service entrance might look simple, but a nick on L1 or L2 could energize the whole steel sheeting on the building.
No it couldnt. Dead short. That building steel is grounded in multiple places.
Best quote ever: "If you don't know how to hook up an outlet, you probably shouldn't be taking on a service". So fkn true! MACHINE!
Hah! Thanks. I thought it summed that up pretty well.
It is SO nice to watch a professional demonstrate his/her skills. That was humbling. Great video 🤠👍
@@samsdoinstuff thank you! I appreciate the feedback
Not boring, Kyle. I like watching such videos. You meticulously build a clean electrical system. Your video editing reveals the best parts. Thanks for sharing:)
Thanks Brian! I appreciate the feedback. I always look forward to your comments too.
I really enjoyed the serious craftsmanship and perfect execution here. You really mastered your craft and it shows every second - it's just a joy to see something done right. I like people who know what they're doing.
Thank you! I appreciate that. Its unfortunate that people pay money and dont get the quality they payed for. Not in every case but a lot.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC When I see you work, I can see the quality of it and that it is just done perfectly to a point. And it doesn't seem to take too much extra time - so I can't understand anyone doing it differently. Even more so, if I have to pay for the work. You even managed to make your cavemen US installations look like a quality product! 😁
My God you are the epitome of professionalism!!!!!
Ill be honest, i had to look up epitome. Thank you. I try my best to do it right.
Not boring. Great footage, bro.
I will never do this myself, but it was super interesting to learn about what all the various components are called, how it all fits together, etc. As usual, nice clean look. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks Buddy!
Great job Kyle!
Never a dull video. Another good one. Thanks Kyle!
Impressive skillset Kyle. Watching a pro do their thing is very satisfying!
@@LatersOnTheMenjay. thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
Funny hearing you say REMC. My dad was a lineman for them 60 years ago. Good video!
Nice work! First time seeing your videos. I love a clean install.
Thank you!
Very clean work. Love it!
Nice work Kyle and I love the details you give. Keep going, I enjoy content.
Thank you!
Kyle, another great Video, keep up the great work.
Nice clean install, looks good.
Great install!
Thanks buddy!
Perfect install, nice work chachee!
Great video again. Nice to see you helping out friends. Keep up the awesome work.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
good stuff. way better than my ground wire set up. my ground wire is all chewed up from me hitting it with the weed wacker for 20 years.
Big Fan. Love all the videos. Colorado 68. 💪🏻
From my experience, you have never done a boring video. Seems to me anything I watch really entertains me. Keep up the good times!
Thanks Richard!
Thanks Kyle! Seems pretty straightforward.
I did this last year on the shop, but used square d panel since they carry those locally. Great video as always!
The QO is a square d panel. Its just a different model with different style breaker. Im guessing you got a Homeline panel.
@SpicerDesignsLLC just checked, it is a homeline.
Great job very nice 👍
I never knew DeWalt made a mini portaband. Nice Machine!
Oh ya buddy! Comes in handy for unistrut and pipe.
This kid is an ACE!!!
Nice clean work. You made it look easy but, you are right about working some of that wire. May be over kill but, I installed 2 grounding rods for my garage to make sure.
Good job again my friend
Nice work 💪
Nice video and good work. I had to search to find that Indiana observes the 2008 National Electric Code.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey that is correct
Nice job! Clean!
Great video…I see a more serious guy in his application. Very interesting and informative.👏🏻🇺🇸
I used to work with an electrician, he had a different name for the “knockout fillers”, he called them “uh ohs”. They fixed the “uh ohs” of removing the wrong knockout.
Great video!! Love your content :)
Thank you!
You do nice work Kyle. Very tidy, very informative....BUT NOT A HOW TO!!! The occasional bit of goofiness just makes it fun. Dave
Thanks Dave! I try to find a good mix to make them somewhat enjoyable.
Well done!
great job, enjoyed all the info !!!!! Kyle
Why not just use PVC exclusively to avoid all those ground bushings? Around here in MN it seems like that's pretty much standard practice.
Thats because pvc is easy and more forgiving. The metal chase has better grounding integrity.
Great video - Machine!
Thanks for sharing.
Good video… had me a little scared when you mentioned using tapcons (concrete anchors) in a 2x4…. But other than that; solid work!
Machine!!! great video thank you!!
Hello there in Iowa we have to do two 5/8 x 8 ground rods and they have be 6 feet apart
I spotted 7 code violations. J/K, excellent work. Want to get the keyboard warriors going. LOL!
Thank you. Hah! Ya no kidding.
WOW, Pretty Awesome walk through on the mechanical's and Nice quality work 20yrs + Thanks for explaining each piece and going the extra , most vids show the main hookup and call it good. LOL. I like the grounding JPS100 strap very cool and how you double clamped it with one down in the hole. Thank you. Also what happen no Green wire? I know you used it All on the "MACHINE" 😛✌ You attract the bugs too!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. And ya i guess i need to shower more or something. Apparently once a month isn’t enough.
Good video. !! I have found it best to never land the neutral and grounds of pending branch circuits on the same buss even if this is the first point of disconnect. Let the grounding screw do exactly what it was intended to do. That way should this ever become the second point of disconnect, "such as if a emergency disconnected is installed later for the first responders / firemen" to use, then you don't have to go back and separate the neutrals and grounds all you have to do is remove the grounding screw and they are all automatically separated.
@@lesterwatson8519 great point! Same situation if you add a whole house generator. We would spend two hours separating all the grounds. Total pain.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC Good video. A question. I know the main means of disconnect would have the nuetrals and grounds are bonded by the bonding screw. Why would you have the outside meter can also have the ground and nuetral also bonded? Shouldnt the ground screw be left out and have the inside panel , have grounds and nuetral separate.Is that some update to your code? Watching from the Caribbean
@richstarstar thats not the main ground in the meter can. Thats the GEC which is in place for surges and lighting protection. Its not the return path. I explained everything in another comment if you want to check it out.
Piece of cake. If it took you a day to install, I figure it outa take me about week and a half.
I appreciate your attention to detail Kyle. really... it's awesome. Best, -- J. Andre. / Old Iron Acres
I appreciate the comment. Thank you!
Ready to install a sub panel in my shop! “Question ?” If my service box is 140’ from the shop, what size of wire I need to connect!! Thanks! This video did help! Thanks for sharing! And keep them coming! 👍👌
@17:19 do I need L1 and L2 or can I get away with just L1
You might want to call an electrician.
Fine job 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😅😅😅😅😅
Dont you need one of those expansion couplings on the sch80 conduit coming from the ground?
It just stubs into the ground to protect the direct burial service cable so no. Doesn’t connect to anything
interesting - cant do that in NY!
If I need to install a meter, I’m calling you.
ROAD TRIP 😂
Anything for you Doug!
Really?!!!
ANYTHING? 🤔@@SpicerDesignsLLC
That was a great “how to” video.😂
Great video!
Silicone on the non-used fastener holes inside the meter panel?
@@jeffshipman2656 ya. I ended up having to drill my own. I did do it just didnt film it.
Kyle - figured as much - you always show the attention to detail.
Again, great video! I'll definitely be looking at this when I run power into my future shop build.
Kyle, The dohicky on the outside under the thingamabob is too much to the left. You put the whatchamacallit upside down on top of the shiny thingy on the inside. 😂
Other than that, excellent work. 👍😎
@@DurtyMaxDee hah! I know exactly what your talking about. Ill make the adjustments.
Interesting. I had meter bases installed on two different buildings and they use bare copper wire for the ground, and not in a conduit. They also put in two ground rods 6 or 8 feet apart. Only other difference is my county requires a disconnect at the meter, which I (as a consumer and not an electrician) prefer. Not sure if they used those conduit grounding lugs or not, but those are slick.
Typically if the panel is 6’ or more from the meter you have to have a disconnect. Is that how yours is set up?
@SpicerDesignsLLC No, one is about 4' from the panel and the other is backed up to it same as in the video.
Did you torque the lugs to spec?
Yep
Great. A question I have a disconnect in the garage for 220v box welder with two 30 amp buss fuses and I want to run a 120v 30amp for a small welder. Any suggestions.
K, is that 2” pvc conduit big enough? I had to use 2.5”.
Also how do you seal conduit penetration on outer tin when it’s a finished insulated wall?
Its plenty big enough for 2/0 and 3/0. The local utility company will spec what size they require. Ours was 2”. You could set the panel first and have the threads sticking out of the exterior wall. You could then seal it and place the meter can over it. Then install your lock ring and bushing.
Nice. Wish you lived closer! I'm staring at a $6k quote for trenching/running (4) 20A circuits 500' to gates/barns. 🤮
Ya thats a kick in the sack right there. I would totally help you out if i were closer
@@SpicerDesignsLLC Thanks man. I'm also needing to ditch the solar horse arena lights that got destroyed in hurricane and move to an overhead hardwire lighting solution. Not interested in trenching 600' around arena to land electric up each of the 6 telephone poles. Have you used Triplex Overhead wire before? Can't seem to find anything smaller than 6-6-6 which is way overkill for 1000watts of LED parking lot lights.
Was that a 20mm round sitting on that girt?
Bottle opener
Awesome stuff sir. Question. Where can you get replacement lugs for the main line 1 and 2 wires. Bought two service panels and 2 lugs were missing. Bought them and they sat in storage for a while past the return dates. I can't find anyone that knows even asked a few electricians in the area. 🤘
Unfortunately youll likely have to rob them from another panel. Thats probably what happened to the ones that you bought. Someone took the lugs and returned it or sold the rest of the panel. Might be able to find some on ebay.
Clean work overall! Why all the love for QO panels?
I just like the way they are set up.
Appreciate the time and reply. You are not the only one who thinks that so I was curious. I work for Eaton on the Industrial side so always nice to get feedback on our products OR competitors.
@Jnshaw81 i had a lot of issues with eaton and Siemen over torquing the bolt on breakers when we ordered panels with breakers. Had to drill out the bolts on multiple occasions. Other than that they are fine.
Awesome, glad to hear Idaho and N.Cal are exactly the same codes. I think thats what you said. Wasnt really listening. lol. Awesome video, actually just getting ready to do the same. Question for you, Ive got 3 phase available, but not sure if I want to run that in the shop, or just do single phase. Not any specific plans to use 3 phase, but who knows. What would you do?
@@dcmotive depends on what your plans are in your shop and if you plan on staying. Having 3 phase will be great for resale but everything about it will be more expensive. You may also have an issue running some of your 240v single phase equipment because 3 phase is 120/208. Generally you need to be within 10 percent of the nameplate voltage on the equipment. If you have no plans of running larger equipment i would just stick with single phase. You would have the option of installing a transformer to get 120/240 single phase if a certain piece of equipment required it.
Underground service? I do all my living above ground!
@@billshedd55 hah! I prefer that as well.
dang i feel like installing a 200amp panel now
Kyle umm your suppose to use 1/2 or 3/4" plywood on the inside wall before installing your panel if not im not sure an inspector would let it pass .
Thats if its surface mounting to concrete. And It already passed inspection. The interior in this barn is getting finished too.
Man I love your vids glad I found ya! I haven't done a new service meter/ panel install in 20 years but you mentioned that the lugs with the plastic connectors may snap and to be careful when installing. Is there a torque setting you can use to avoid this? Machine!
Thanks! And great question. There may be but i dont know it. Kind of have to go by feel. Different size conductors may affect that torque rating too.
Electricity is one thing I don’t like messing with. I almost always phone a friend when it’s anything more than 110
I dont blame you one bit.
Machine!!!
Kyle, got a question on the ridged conduit . Between the meter box and the panel, could you have used sch80, or does it HAVE to be ridged because of the metal siding? Nice job tho. And I KNOW ya cut 3 ft off that Ground Rod!!!!😂
Ya you can use the schedule 80 too. I like using the emt because the grounding is better.
Nice hammer you got there buddy
M A C H I N E. Ribs(not for pleasure)😂😂. Not boring at all bro. It's folks that can actually do instead of just flap their jaws about it that makes the world go around
What I learned from this video. “Let the electricians do electrician shit”
Dude was that a drone buzzing you
With our solar work I only use QO panels.
They are the best for sure
I thought you need two ground rods! And why use EMT And not PVC?
@@joselara6989 emt is not rated for direct bury. Only one ground rod in Indiana. Thats why i stated at the beginning my location and where you are may differ.
Why wouldn't you use pvc fittings to pass through the meter base into the barn? i.e pvc box adapter & pvc male connector. You just made an extra step that's not necessary. No OZ bonding needed with pvc pass through.
Better install. I have no problem with the extra step for a better install. Your welcome to use whatever you want. Ill do the same.
@SpicerDesignsLLC Of course I can use what ever I want. Im not coming at you with judgment if that's how you read it I wanted you're logic on why that step was made and you said" better install" but didn't explain anything, but that's ok I don't see a pvc pass through changing the integrity of the install but yeah use what ever you want, everyone does things just a little different in this trade but the same outcome is always achieved.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC I have a serious question. does your PC require the ground to be bonded in the meter cause technically that would make the meter the first place the grounding and grounded conductors are bonded making it the first disconnecting means and thus make the panel the sub panel. technically you can disconnect at the meter but its normally locked behind the tag I've always heard that it's better to terminate the GEC in the main panel next to the neutral as you had it so if it needed to be repaired or something it can be with calling the power company. Genuine question I have always ran it to the panel and never been called on it and always passed inspection.
Just depends on what state you live in and what version of code theyre using. Ive never heard of the meter can being considered the first means of disconnect. I had a long discussion with someone else in the comments where i explained everything. The GEC is not the main ground. Its specifically for lightning protection and surges. The neutral coming in from the utility company is the main ground. Thats why they are bonded in the main panel to avoid and difference in potential.
I make a point to curse out an old lady everyday lol!
Haha! Makes me feel like more of a man.
lol!
Aren’t you supposed to have 2 ground rods
@@Eightball2516 not in Indiana
Why not show torquing all lugs and connections?
@@jimdavis6357 not a how to video. Just for reference. All the torque specs are on the panel cover if you need them.
L1 and L2 don't need labeled huh? I just assumed we'd make one black and one red.
I normally mark L2 red. I just didnt in the video. Definitely more critical with 3 phase
@@SpicerDesignsLLC thanks
Surprised you have the grounding electrode conductor terminated in the meter enclosure. Here you need to be able to visually inspect it on the customer side.
Thats how we do it in Indiana. Also depends on style of meter. Some have load centers built in. All kinds of options
I didn't see any keystones being delivered to your work site. ya may want to have a talk w the keyston girl. nip it in the bud!
I already had a long talk with her about it. Should never happen again.
That is an overhead meter socket. Its not meant for underground. The utility entrance is always on the left side
@@Roadglide2020. your incorrect. Look at the meter again. There isnt even a hub on top. Thats was provided by the REMC. And it can come in on the left or right depending on what side the feed is coming from. Maybe in your state its different. This install is exactly right.
I called Duke Energy about putting power in my building, They wanted to put 200 Amp in, I did everything they wanted, said it was wrong I told them that I only need 100 Amp now they want me to change the 200 Amp meter base to a 100 Amp meter base wat is the difference?
@@jefferykeeper9034 just smaller lugs is really the only difference.
They still want me to use the same size wire 4/0 Aluminum is that too big for what I need?
@jefferykeeper9034 thats weird. 4/0 wont even fit under the lug of a 100 amp panel
@jefferykeeper9034 what county are you in?
Thanks for letting me know
No duck seal on screws mounting meter base to wall or screw holes you didn't use
I siliconed them. Good try though
No machine?😮😳
Noo. Damnit
Machine
What kind of ribs are for pleasure🤔 😂
You know
@ ahhh yes. How could I forget baby back ribs. Delicious 😋
These ribs are not for pleasure…😂😂😂😂
That cracked me up when he said that.😂
That's not a meter can, it's a Flux Capacitor. time MACHINE.
Hah! I think you’re on to something.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC I'll let you kmow yesterday
Great work. But why did u bond the neutral twice. The neutral and ground should be bonded in the subpanel and please remove the green screw
There is no sub panel. That is the first means of disconnect which is where the green screw is used to bond.
Then please remove the ground wire from the meter base. Cuz you have double bonded the neutral. Not good.
You are incorrect. Like i said at the beginning of the video. Maybe they do it different where you live. This was inspected by the county and the utility provider. Been doing it like this (per code) for almost 20 years now.
Ok. Do you agree that you double bonded the neutral?
@MrTooTechnical i do not agree. It sounds like your treating the grounding electrode conductor as equal to the split phase system ground/ neutral. The grounding electrode is specifically for lightning protection, surges and contact with high voltage. Where it lands in the meter can with the split phase system neutral/ ground is not considered bonding. The bonding can only happen in the enclosure that contains the first means of disconnect to bond the split phase system to the enclosure. Which prevents a difference in potential between the neutral and any grounded equipment after the first means of disconnect. I think you’re grouping the different type grounds together and treating them the same which is incorrect. Hopefully that clears up the confusion.
You look parched. You hardly see the Keystone girl in your videos anymore.
I know! Shes so busy with the girls and coaching its hard to get her in the videos. Hoping to make up for it with livestreams. They will be coming soon.