I did three years in the army, got out, and started an electrical career in Texas. I relate to a lot of your content and love your videos. I have a great journeyman I work underneath and pick his brain daily! Of course, when I get off work for the day, I like to watch your videos. It’s almost like having a second journeyman anytime day or night. Keep the content coming!
Can’t believe an electrician lived w/Zinsco breakers for 5 years. Glad you were testing them, every time I test a Zinsco, or the ITE Siemens that were produced for a few years after they acquired Zinsco, at least half of the breakers fail to trip. Then again, a replacement QO plug-on neutral and the requisite combo breakers are a lot of $$! I too love those panels, it’s all I use...although getting breakers was dicey last Summer w/Covid shutting down 2 of Schneider’s plants. Keep up the good work mate.
QO w/PoN is definitely my preference too, and I resorted to buying breakers and SPDs on Amazon last summer due to the shortages! Next in line would probably be Eaton. I know this guy loves Siemens, but they are dead last in my book. Although I do think Siemens make one of the better AFCI/GFCI breakers with its diagnostic LEDs (at least they do in the Murray line).
Most residential I worked here in Florida cared abosilutly nothing about the asthetetics. I mean appalling and unfit not code work. I would not do residential again unless my pay was double, but sadly it's cut in half... I don't look down at all on residential electricians, they get more side jobs too by far... Just almost a different field then industrial or commercial
The knockouts for the screw holes makes perfect sense. Yours is outside so it makes even more sense. What if the particular place you’re mounting it prohibits you from putting a screw in the exact place where their hole is or the particular place where it’s mounted is in framing so it’s screwed on the sides. Now, since your pane is outside, you don’t have any open holes and it’s that much more closed off from the elements. Pretty simple.
Wow. Thank you so much for this! I'm a 3rd year commercial apprentice, and I've never really had a chance to learn how to do services like this. I also have three old zinsco panels (a main and two subs) at home that I know should be replaced, but I've been holding off until I have more experience and can do it myself. Once I graduate, I want to completely redesign the way the panels/circuits are being fed, because it's 70 years of homeowners doing their own diy work.
Love the channel, Dustin. Not in the trade personally, but your videos are extremely insightful and educational for a layman homeowner. Keep up the amazing work.
Not an electrician here, but definitely appreciate these videos - I learned enough from this to recognize that whoever did the service upgrade on my house did not assemble the weather head correctly (it's completely missing a cover), so now I know I need to call in a pro - that one is beyond DIY, not messing with the incoming service lines. Would never have even realized there was something wrong without this video until something broke or went wrong, so thanks!
Looking forward to part 2! And honestly I woukdnt mind if your videos were 30-40 mins. You have quality content, and a very good production value to your videos which make them very enjoyable to watch.
Appreciate you helping me sharpen my skills with electrical! I install pv and ESS’s. Sometimes both at the same time. Here’s what I know coming from the renewable energy side of electrical trades. For me to install an ESS, with or without PV, I need to be able to tap in between the grids main feed with an auto transfer/Mid switch. When I run into “all and ones” or panel boxes where I can’t easily wire the transfer switch into the topology of the homes electrical system I realize there’s a communication issue between renewable energy and electrical trades. I prefer a separate meter box, then a main disconnect for that grid fed electricity, then to my transfer switch, then to the homes breaker panel. That’s the best set up. I’m having to replace those boxes where I can’t route the feed to transfer switch then to the bus bar for home loads. Respect you.
@@MrKurtn they had a problem with the Engineering of it and lost the UL label. It was easier to put a Surface mount all in one right next to it and backfeed it turning it into a Sub Panel if you had the room. Otherwise you might have to rip out the flush mount...
@@wizard3z868 i subscribe to sparky channel too i like him but with electrician u i feel like he’s more like straight forward and detailed and just more entertaining and interested in his videos than anyone else keeps my focus
Pro tip: After doing several hundred service changes like this, I FINALLY figured out that if I spun the weather head around almost 180 degrees, the service conductors flowed out and around in a nice circular loop and looked better much better than the bent up mess you make trying to make drip loops. Try it one time and you will like it :). Like I said, it took me decades to figure it out Pro tip #2: All in one/meter panel combo. They have been the standard in my area since I started in the mid 70's. One less piece of gear to install. Pro tip #3. If you stay in the field, your body will take a beating. The last few years that I worked (in my early 60's) were rough. Now that Im almost 70, it is really starting to show.
I feel the beating at thirty five. Six buldging disks 2 shallow hurniated. Commercial residential industrial service technician. Still mechanic level sadly.... doctors keep telling me to change careers...like yeah let me take a 10$ a hour pay cut, I'm a single dad
Thank the heavens above for professionals like you. I had my panel changed out when I bought my house a few years ago. They did a great job and were done in just a few hours and the cost was very affordable. Amazing to watch for me.
Always enjoy watching these videos and seeing the difference between the NEC and the CEC up here in the north. Very similar rules. We have to use minimum 2.5" for the mast (guess you guys call it a riser.) Support spacing sounds similar but have to have min 3. Guy lines if mast is >5' above roof. Also have to goop up any exposed threads on the rigid to prevent rust. Must be nice having the panel outside the house, never seen that. Meter base and panel never seem to be located near each other here. Every one I've done we run 1.25" or 2" PVC out the bottom of meter base, expansion joint then underground, stub up near panel location, LB, nipple thru foundation/wall and into back of panel mounted in basement or garage.
You had the only opportunity to paint and seal the siding behind the panel and meter pan.!!! love you channel brother! hoping to take the electrical exam this year.
The knock out holes are there for the screws so you can only have the holes needed for the application. In the oilfield in Kentucky most use the center row top curve bracket to mount to the pole or fence post depending on overhead or underground service. The less holes in the box better to keep moisture and critters out
Nice video. Very informative. I replaced my panel 2 years ago. I had to run two grounding rods as I was grounded to my water pipe. I had a hard time getting reconnected as a friend disconnected my service. Friend was a trained juryman with all the proper PPE. Next time il call the utility so I don't sit in the dark for an extra day. I did pull a permit and got inspected and signed off on
I am impressed with the Square D panel especially with the plug on neutral bus and the insulation covering the power lugs which are always hot even with the main breakers off.
Hey Dustin I'm a 3rd year apprentience, part of the IBEW local 110 out of St. Paul. Just wanted to say your content is top notch. You do a great job at bridging that classroom to on the job gap, keep at the great content!
I'm doing apartment buildings and those boxes get mounted between the studs in every unit. If we had holes in the back of the panel we'd have to fill them before we pass inspection..
Box fill is the worst and most pointless thing. Did a fit out for a semi large commercial plastic surgery office and had to stop at every outlet switch and j box and remove the bottom mc clamps. Talk about a waste of time when you could just be clamping the incoming lines and moving on
These videos make it so easy to learn. Now obviously, this is no replacement for proper training, but in the interest of piquing someone's interest in a trade this does it in spades. Wow, I rhymed.
Question. When you bonded the RMC to the meter using the bushing why didnt you need have another inside the panel? Wouldn't your panel side need the supply side bonding jumper since its your first disconnect from the meter? Thanks for the videos I love the info.
Kinda odd about the RED service conductor. Up here in NJ the guys at PSEG might be confused by it thinking it's a high leg 208V 3-phase (even with the missing conductor)! Least that's what I've been told and to NEVER USE RED on a single phase service. Great video, good camera work and attention to detail.
Why would anyone think it’s three phase? I could see if there was a blue involved, why would I think it’s three phase with the red? Black- A -phase , red -B -phase , blue -C-phase. Two blacks would be incorrect, or Red and blue would be incorrect. Looks good to me send it! And on top of that the NEC code only points out two current carrying conductors colors, and that is orange for a high leg and light blue for intrinsically safe Systems. Just Trying to understand?
Where in your video did you have the ele tric company shut off at the pole? Or did you change the box by not shutting off at the pole. Did you also pull a permit for this work?
I noticed at 2:33 that the cables/conductors enter the panel in a non-standard way. And then in the new installation you use a short nipple at the back of the box... but none of the cable is secured. whats going on inside the wall? is this NM cable that is stripped back before exiting the wall? I have a similar problem where I want to move a panel from inside to outside, but in doing so the NM conductors will be loose in the wall.. and I can't use a box where the old panel is because it is going to be a shower.... hmmm...
Great video and awesome work. I started inverting the panels when the service wires come in from the bottom to avoid taking up extra space in the gutters. It took some getting used to but it looks super neat that way.
Question here. when replacing a new service panel and the wires coming in are short. can you pig tail wires to lengthen them to fit the new breakers. and the same for the neutral and ground.
I've seen it done as long as fill is ok but when I had my old fuse panel replaced the electrician actually setup multiple junction boxes on the joist above my panel (basement wall) and ran everything down from those. Looks much better inside my panel and he labeled it all going in and out.
I fell off but this right here got me back on I’m going to cop a notebook right now. And watching part 2 right now as well the long video make a man not want to sit there cause I be bored wit short videos too but this was it.🔥
Something I learned the other day when doing a weather head. Tape the wires inside the weather head for you it was white and red just for future reference when someone is working on it,you can just peak into the weather head and see the tape because most of the time that tape on the wire loses color from being in the elements over time. Something I never did but an old guy I work with did it and I was like thats a good idea!
@@steve-o6413 taping it in the weather head isn't for the utility company its for the next guy who has to cut the line drop and hook it back up for whatever reason. It just saves an extra step for the next guy
@@sumochop360 the only one who would probably ever have reason to do that is the Utility Company or Fire Department and I'm sure they know too leave a little extra bare wire for identifying the Neutral otherwise ring it out with a jumper wire...
We are always trained on testing everything. Good idea though especially when working with 3 phase 208v. You need to not run the wild leg to one of the 120v branch circuit bars.
Im an apprentice and been in school for about 3 months now and man your videos are super helpful especially when I first started class, love your videos man!
Great video, for safety reasons it's always best to stand to the right of the panel disconnect and turn on or shut off the power with your left arm , just incase the panel for some reason ( and it happens) explodes , that way your body is facing away from the front of the panel..Also at the street where the main power was switched off, I didn't see any lockout...Please excuse me I'm wrong..Again great video and awesome presentation!!! Looking forward to watching more of your videos..
Hey buddy who is responsible for making the terminations at the weather head and if its the homeowner what type of connector application is used? Are polaris taps acceptable? Thx
Thanks man! Good to know there are folks out there watching my videos to make sure I'm staying fit 🤣 I need all the help I can get these days. Seriously...after the divorce I lost an insane amount of weight, then put a whole shit load back on and got the heaviest I'd ever been, and now I'm back to....normalish. Still going to the gym, still eating clean, doing a lot of work on my mind these days. It's amazing what being 35, single, and having the freedom to chase my ambition to no end is doing for my perspective on life. For the first time in my life, I'm free to be a workaholic and not feel guilty about it. Thanks for watching my friend!
Thanks for sharing your awesome video. Can you route wires through the holes on the side of the panel since no holes are available on the top or bottom of the panel. Thanks
I love how, as a fellow Austin electrician who's aware of all the special rules that come along with working here, I can reference any of this guy's videos and know, for sure, that its legal in the city YOU ARE A GODSEND DUDE!!!!!
Always great videos Dustin but I have a non electrical question for you. What kind of watch were you wearing in that video I like the look of it and I just broke the strap on mine a week or so ago. Keep then videos ah comin!
I always addressed them first thing. On of my goals was to have no wirenuts in the panel :). If I had one or two, I'd hide them lol. I would relocate where the cables came out of the building to get more length.and/or relocate the panel a bit if possible. Sometimes I'd have to punch new holes in the back of the panel but it was worth the effort to have a clean panel at the end.
This channel is incredible for ECs and engineers. May not be a possibility, but only thing I would've tried to do different is put panel inside the house. Don't know what's on the opposite side of that wall but the panel would not be subjected to weather plus you could use extra slack of branch circuits to reconnect to all the breakers.
Personally, I am having some work done since where I live they won't let me do it myself. So when I get this work done I am having a main disconnect put in between the meter and panel so that when I want to do work on my own home and my own panel, I can simply walk outside, throw the main disconnect, lock it out with my lock and tag and go inside and do the work. This allows me to upgrade panels, fix lugs, heck even run a new service entrance line if I felt the need. Right now my area uses smart meters, in the old days I would pop the meter out and do my work, now if that meter comes out it tells on me and I have a very annoyed duke energy guy coming out or a fine coming in the mail for "tampering". My current house has a 100amp main service to the meter, a completely degraded SEU cable going to the panel in my house, and by degraded I mean the aluminum neutral is exposed completely. But that isn't even the worst part, at the panel some genius decided it would b a good idea to double lug another length of SEU, run it across my basement ceiling, through a conduit buried in concrete, and feed it to my garage panel, the garage panel, of course, has no shutoff and is an old 3 phase panel they jumpered one leg of the SEU to so that it would "work". So right now even if I shut off my main panel that garage panel is still live, there is no way to shut down my garage panel in the event of a problem without pulling the meter. And though I can fix this entire issue for the cost of 1 nice new panel, a handful of new breakers, some new service entrance cable, and my time, I cannot do so without pulling the meter. If I had a main disconnect I could fix this entire clusterfuck and make my house safe. Then all I would need to do is get a new pan, conduit, and weatherhead ready to go, call the power company to come to disconnect me at the pole, and quickly upgrade the incoming service line to finish the job. What should be a simple job, is now going to require me to have my power shut off for an extended period of time while I fix the issues instead of being able to take care of it easily it is now a massive pain in the rear and is going to cost me 8 times the cost of doing it myself. And the worst part, since it would be mine I would be REALLY anal about the panel I got, the features, the wiring paths, the cable management, etc. I have no clue how meticulous the electrician will be.
I needed this. I don’t know if I’ll be doing it myself but I needed this. Just had a high wind storm and the electrical company’s power pole yanked out the wire from the riser. Now they are saying it’s on me to replace everything. The panel was already old but I think the yanking of the wire did it to the panel. 😭
QUESTION: Just outside my walk out basement I have a meter box and (2) main house breaker Cutler/Hammer enclosures (long skinny enclosures, one on each side of meter box). Each enclosure has just ONE 150amp breaker, no other breakers and no brackets our cutouts to put in additional breakers, just the 150's, then power from those (2) breakers outside feed the (2) house multi breaker panels inside the house, in basement. I want to hook up (2) portable generators (220v at 30 or maybe 50 amps each) at the location of the meter and these (2) main breakers with inlet plug boxes, interlocks AND breakers (30 or 50 amp depending on generator capacity). One generator per service box so I can access all areas in the house with the option to run or not run. It is a walk out basement on a large concrete pad that also has a couple of HVAC condenser units so having (2) generators in some vented enclosures close by will work fine... The biggest obstacle that I can see is that the outside 150amp breaker enclosures don't appear to have a way to put in additional breakers to control the generators (with lockouts to block power back to the utility) and to control the generator power back into the house. As mentioned above, these enclosures just have the 150 amp breakers and inside the enclosure it splices neutrals and grounds (using blocks) from the meter, then sends everything to the inside panels. Do I have to totally change these 150 amp service boxes or is there a way to add breakers to these enclosures? I assume that changing out these main breaker enclosures means turning of the power at meter...
run it thru a pipe (emt or find a friendly plumber) nailed on studs or on a heavy bucket/pal or just staple up a strip of nm-b between two studs a poor but simple reel lol
Thanks for all the time you take to make all these informative videos. Had a question regarding one of your videos when you talked about sizing conductors for single dwelling services. If i have a 200A service can i use 310.12 (A) which states conductor ampacity can be not less than 83%. So can i use 1/0 THHN which is good for 170A 83% of 200 is 166. Thank you
absolutely the easiest panel change scenario ive ever seen. do one in the interior wall back to back meter with rotted wood and dont damage existing wall. and none of the wires reach. maybe an old fpe panel
Oh those are so fun. I love going in a welfare hoard trailer to replace an FPE that was actually working just fine. The department of human and health services noticed it and required it to be replaced. I had to kneel in garbage and dog feces with fleas biting me for an hour. At least it was on the rear bedroom wall facing the door and all the wires were easy to get to.
Thanks for the videos I just finished watching part 2 of this one here I'm currently doing pretty much the same thing upgrading to a 200 amp panel with breaker GE just curious going from 125 to 200 what size ground wire and ground rod should I use thank you or what would you recommend and I live in Austin
Grateful for your content my Bro! Helps me out heaps as I’m learning to be an electrician. Question: how do I replace the aluminum bar that’s melted in an old meter box safely? The screw that held it together also melted.
So happy to have helped you out! To answer your question: Have service disconnect. Then do it. Or have someone who is licensed and trained already do it.
Love your channel you're a great communicator. 8 :42 didn't like that you turned the razor knife towards your wrist never cut towards yourself. Thanks for the great content.
i just find your page and the first thing my son says wtf happen to his bread HAHAHA my son is going to trade school for electrician program... appreciate your page and the knowledge you share...
Hey Dustin, when you're putting in a off grid inverter to a breaker box, does the ground and the neutral need to be bonded? Thank you! Just wanted to say I'm a big fan and I've learned so so much from your channel. Wish you could do a video one day about inverters and what are some of the codes for how to wire up a inverter to breaker boxes. And so it can be legal Again, thank you
Hi Dustin, what type of cable did you use for the service entrance? Can you use THHN? Are SE-R or SE-U are normally use for service entrance applications?
Not an electrician fyi but had mine redone recently. SEU doesn't have a ground, so that's typically from meter to panel and then you've got your ground coming from your ground rod(s). SER has the 4th wire in it for ground so you use that for everything after your grounded and bonded first panel/disconnect, typically sub panels (even your main panel is a sub-panel if it's after a main disconnect.)
Do you ever use a hex style torque(sp?) device/wrench when you connect the wires to the electrical box, I saw your hex handheld device and I saw another video on installing a Nema 14-50 and suggested using a torque to tighten all the connections to the specifications and that was the first time I had seen a torque wrenching device other than what I am familiar with on a car engine. But I was curious what your thoughts are on tightening hex or screw or bolts (if applicable) thanks Jim
Dustin can you please explain to me why you use the green insulated bonding conductor on the conduit connector in the meter box? Also where does it connect to on the other end? Would you also have any reference links to this concept? Thank you as always for your awesome and educational channel?
I have two wires from the meter, both black, then the bare ground. Would that make one load, one neutral, and bare ground? Would those two black go one on the left bus and other on the right?
Hello sir. I have a question that you may possibly help with. Q: is it possible / allowable to splice into the MAIN POWER from the utility transformer that comes into the to of my main panel on 2AWG, and run this to an additional panel that I'll locate a few feet away. If so, how or where do i lock out and isolate the pet that comes into the panel? Thanks in advance! Eddie
AWESOME video!! thank you very, very much!! I love how thoroughly and informative you explained everything! It's also very helpful [to me] that you're in Texas.
anti seize paste on riser or even better nylon tape or pipe dope a little more watertight plus i wld have used ductseal on the head yes not a big deal great job as always
Got a question about 3phase 460. I had a air compressor not starting. So I checked at the main disconnect for incoming voltage. When I did L1-L2 =480 L1-L-3= 480, L2-L3=480. but when I checked each leg to ground. L1= 480 L2=0 L3=480. I was told that even if my meter reads 0 for L2 it is a good leg. Why would my meter read 0. I thought I was missing a leg of power the whole time. Heard it was called Deads Man's Leg. Any info on this would be awesome.
If the majority of my house is has appliances the only appliance that will use more power is the oven since it’s an electric oven and a/c is gas too but I am trying to replace my main meter is 120/150 amp box good? Or should upgrade to 200 amp?
Does your required inspector require an an emergency disconnect per NEC 2020 article 230.85? Or since the panelboard is outdoor with the 200A main shut off does that qualified, along with the label.
Question: according to 2020 NEC code change to 230.85, I can’t figure out if I can use the main breaker in my outdoor panel as a emergency disconnect. Thoughts?
I have a question for you. I n a above ground pool. There is a dedicated GFI feeding the pump. Bonding in done to code. The problem I am having getting stray voltage at the pool. Getting shocks when sitting at edge of the pool with feet in . Any suggestions on where to look for the problem
Electrician Here up in the Pacific NW. Highly recommend trying out the leviton panels. We used to use Sq D and Eaton but since changing to Leviton had no issues and make up is really quick on Rough. Also im sure your probably aware but little trick we use with rigid coming into Hub, we squeeze a little No Ox on the threads and seems to go in pretty easy. Great Vid btw
I did three years in the army, got out, and started an electrical career in Texas. I relate to a lot of your content and love your videos. I have a great journeyman I work underneath and pick his brain daily! Of course, when I get off work for the day, I like to watch your videos. It’s almost like having a second journeyman anytime day or night. Keep the content coming!
*FortWorthbeenhere* ✌🏿💯📍💡🪛
Ibew
@@dfworldwide7210 Hows it working in Ft Worth? People tell me all sorts of things 😆
I'm taking my exam this month hopefully
@@matt59fire how’d it go?
Can’t believe an electrician lived w/Zinsco breakers for 5 years. Glad you were testing them, every time I test a Zinsco, or the ITE Siemens that were produced for a few years after they acquired Zinsco, at least half of the breakers fail to trip.
Then again, a replacement QO plug-on neutral and the requisite combo breakers are a lot of $$! I too love those panels, it’s all I use...although getting breakers was dicey last Summer w/Covid shutting down 2 of Schneider’s plants.
Keep up the good work mate.
QO w/PoN is definitely my preference too, and I resorted to buying breakers and SPDs on Amazon last summer due to the shortages! Next in line would probably be Eaton. I know this guy loves Siemens, but they are dead last in my book. Although I do think Siemens make one of the better AFCI/GFCI breakers with its diagnostic LEDs (at least they do in the Murray line).
Man! I can't tell you how much I appreciate a guy who cares about the neatness of his work! Good job!
Most residential I worked here in Florida cared abosilutly nothing about the asthetetics. I mean appalling and unfit not code work. I would not do residential again unless my pay was double, but sadly it's cut in half... I don't look down at all on residential electricians, they get more side jobs too by far... Just almost a different field then industrial or commercial
The knockouts for the screw holes makes perfect sense. Yours is outside so it makes even more sense. What if the particular place you’re mounting it prohibits you from putting a screw in the exact place where their hole is or the particular place where it’s mounted is in framing so it’s screwed on the sides. Now, since your pane is outside, you don’t have any open holes and it’s that much more closed off from the elements. Pretty simple.
Wow. Thank you so much for this! I'm a 3rd year commercial apprentice, and I've never really had a chance to learn how to do services like this. I also have three old zinsco panels (a main and two subs) at home that I know should be replaced, but I've been holding off until I have more experience and can do it myself. Once I graduate, I want to completely redesign the way the panels/circuits are being fed, because it's 70 years of homeowners doing their own diy work.
Three Phase commercial color Codes are completely different from Residential and important for the Utility Company...
Hi. Am Bismark from Ghana and I enjoy your work so much.
Keep it up,but I what to be part of you.
Love the channel, Dustin. Not in the trade personally, but your videos are extremely insightful and educational for a layman homeowner. Keep up the amazing work.
Your the first electrical content creator I’ve watched cite the code in your videos. I’m so glad you did it and really hope it catches on.
Sparky Channel always does that he is very good if you have never watched his content.
look into peterson electric hes like a younger sparky but reads off and from code all the time
@@wizard3z868 yes josh is another great spark.
Watch mike holt
you're* not your
Not an electrician here, but definitely appreciate these videos - I learned enough from this to recognize that whoever did the service upgrade on my house did not assemble the weather head correctly (it's completely missing a cover), so now I know I need to call in a pro - that one is beyond DIY, not messing with the incoming service lines. Would never have even realized there was something wrong without this video until something broke or went wrong, so thanks!
Looking forward to part 2!
And honestly I woukdnt mind if your videos were 30-40 mins. You have quality content, and a very good production value to your videos which make them very enjoyable to watch.
Appreciate you helping me sharpen my skills with electrical! I install pv and ESS’s. Sometimes both at the same time.
Here’s what I know coming from the renewable energy side of electrical trades. For me to install an ESS, with or without PV, I need to be able to tap in between the grids main feed with an auto transfer/Mid switch. When I run into “all and ones” or panel boxes where I can’t easily wire the transfer switch into the topology of the homes electrical system I realize there’s a communication issue between renewable energy and electrical trades.
I prefer a separate meter box, then a main disconnect for that grid fed electricity, then to my transfer switch, then to the homes breaker panel. That’s the best set up. I’m having to replace those boxes where I can’t route the feed to transfer switch then to the bus bar for home loads.
Respect you.
Zinsco made a piggyback Service all in one in mid to late 70's, but it was for a flush mount, an only 100Amp...
@@steve-o6413 one of these manufacturers need to start making 100 and 200 amp
@@MrKurtn they had a problem with the Engineering of it and lost the UL label. It was easier to put a Surface mount all in one right next to it and backfeed it turning it into a Sub Panel if you had the room. Otherwise you might have to rip out the flush mount...
i’m a freshman at a technical high school and your videos help you need to post more i wait all the timeeee
look at sparky channel as well also peterson electric but hes not really beginner friendly but is very code insightful
@@wizard3z868 i subscribe to sparky channel too i like him but with electrician u i feel like he’s more like straight forward and detailed and just more entertaining and interested in his videos than anyone else keeps my focus
@@jaydenbaptiste2675 I agree ! give Peterson electric a glance
I bet everyone wishes they had a JW like you. Cool, calm and knowledgeable.
Pro tip: After doing several hundred service changes like this, I FINALLY figured out that if I spun the weather head around almost 180 degrees, the service conductors flowed out and around in a nice circular loop and looked better much better than the bent up mess you make trying to make drip loops.
Try it one time and you will like it :). Like I said, it took me decades to figure it out
Pro tip #2: All in one/meter panel combo. They have been the standard in my area since I started in the mid 70's. One less piece of gear to install.
Pro tip #3. If you stay in the field, your body will take a beating. The last few years that I worked (in my early 60's) were rough. Now that Im almost 70, it is really starting to show.
I feel the beating at thirty five. Six buldging disks 2 shallow hurniated. Commercial residential industrial service technician. Still mechanic level sadly.... doctors keep telling me to change careers...like yeah let me take a 10$ a hour pay cut, I'm a single dad
Thank the heavens above for professionals like you. I had my panel changed out when I bought my house a few years ago. They did a great job and were done in just a few hours and the cost was very affordable. Amazing to watch for me.
Quick and cheap are not great words in any field of construction.
@@dubselectorr345 Neither is overpriced and slow. These guys did a great job and I watched them every step of the way.
@@anonymoustargetindividual
For the panel and 2 guys labor $1250 cash. They cleaned up nicely too.
Always enjoy watching these videos and seeing the difference between the NEC and the CEC up here in the north. Very similar rules. We have to use minimum 2.5" for the mast (guess you guys call it a riser.) Support spacing sounds similar but have to have min 3. Guy lines if mast is >5' above roof. Also have to goop up any exposed threads on the rigid to prevent rust. Must be nice having the panel outside the house, never seen that. Meter base and panel never seem to be located near each other here. Every one I've done we run 1.25" or 2" PVC out the bottom of meter base, expansion joint then underground, stub up near panel location, LB, nipple thru foundation/wall and into back of panel mounted in basement or garage.
@Jimbo I appreciate your comment, good to know
You had the only opportunity to paint and seal the siding behind the panel and meter pan.!!! love you channel brother! hoping to take the electrical exam this year.
The knock out holes are there for the screws so you can only have the holes needed for the application. In the oilfield in Kentucky most use the center row top curve bracket to mount to the pole or fence post depending on overhead or underground service. The less holes in the box better to keep moisture and critters out
I am glad you covered that! I was going to mention that.
Nice video. Very informative. I replaced my panel 2 years ago. I had to run two grounding rods as I was grounded to my water pipe. I had a hard time getting reconnected as a friend disconnected my service. Friend was a trained juryman with all the proper PPE. Next time il call the utility so I don't sit in the dark for an extra day.
I did pull a permit and got inspected and signed off on
Looks good but I didn't see a roof jack. What other way did you use to water seal the roof were the conduit passed through?
yeah i was going to suggest he does something about water intrusion in the hole he cut in his roof....
Better to buy a MAST KIT. makes life easier.
Looked at the teaser shot and think, I've seen this panel before!- is it his?? YES IN DEED! Congratulations!
I am impressed with the Square D panel especially with the plug on neutral bus and the insulation covering the power lugs which are always hot even with the main breakers off.
Hey Dustin I'm a 3rd year apprentience, part of the IBEW local 110 out of St. Paul. Just wanted to say your content is top notch. You do a great job at bridging that classroom to on the job gap, keep at the great content!
Awesome! Thank you!
I love the enthusiastic and professional way you teach
Love that you cut it in half, I tend to skip the long vids :)
Just found the page, very easy to watch. Clear and to the point. Love it!
Man. this was the best video ever. I have never seen anybody explain and do a panel upgrade like 👍 you. Looking forward for the next one
look at peterson electric
I'm doing apartment buildings and those boxes get mounted between the studs in every unit. If we had holes in the back of the panel we'd have to fill them before we pass inspection..
Never heard of that, only in a Firewall (duct seal)or outside wall for (insulating purposes)...
I should clarify that I meant my boss's inspection. He almost always holds us to a higher standard than "acceptable". ✌🛠
@@mattsmith1318 Look at article 300.5 (G) and you will understand why your boss is having you fill in this raceway.
@@bairdmiltich4935 I don’t think OP was talking about sealing a raceway.
Box fill is the worst and most pointless thing. Did a fit out for a semi large commercial plastic surgery office and had to stop at every outlet switch and j box and remove the bottom mc clamps. Talk about a waste of time when you could just be clamping the incoming lines and moving on
Can you go more into grounding your panel? With ground rods specifically.
These videos make it so easy to learn. Now obviously, this is no replacement for proper training, but in the interest of piquing someone's interest in a trade this does it in spades. Wow, I rhymed.
Question. When you bonded the RMC to the meter using the bushing why didnt you need have another inside the panel? Wouldn't your panel side need the supply side bonding jumper since its your first disconnect from the meter? Thanks for the videos I love the info.
Kinda odd about the RED service conductor. Up here in NJ the guys at PSEG might be confused by it thinking it's a high leg 208V 3-phase (even with the missing conductor)! Least that's what I've been told and to NEVER USE RED on a single phase service. Great video, good camera work and attention to detail.
i think everyone would think 3 phase. What else would be the case?
Why would anyone think it’s three phase? I could see if there was a blue involved, why would I think it’s three phase with the red? Black- A -phase , red -B -phase , blue -C-phase. Two blacks would be incorrect, or Red and blue would be incorrect. Looks good to me send it! And on top of that the NEC code only points out two current carrying conductors colors, and that is orange for a high leg and light blue for intrinsically safe Systems. Just Trying to understand?
Where in your video did you have the ele tric company shut off at the pole? Or did you change the box by not shutting off at the pole.
Did you also pull a permit for this work?
I noticed at 2:33 that the cables/conductors enter the panel in a non-standard way. And then in the new installation you use a short nipple at the back of the box... but none of the cable is secured. whats going on inside the wall? is this NM cable that is stripped back before exiting the wall? I have a similar problem where I want to move a panel from inside to outside, but in doing so the NM conductors will be loose in the wall.. and I can't use a box where the old panel is because it is going to be a shower.... hmmm...
I have no idea what you are doing or talking about but it's still cool to see
Great video and awesome work. I started inverting the panels when the service wires come in from the bottom to avoid taking up extra space in the gutters. It took some getting used to but it looks super neat that way.
Can't wait to be hired so I can start my electrical journey. Watching these vids all day since I finished trade school in MARCH! I'm ready to rock!
LoL you sound just like me! Trying to watch all these videos so I’ll be ready when my opportunity comes ⚡️
Question here. when replacing a new service panel and the wires coming in are short. can you pig tail wires to lengthen them to fit the new breakers. and the same for the neutral and ground.
I've seen it done as long as fill is ok but when I had my old fuse panel replaced the electrician actually setup multiple junction boxes on the joist above my panel (basement wall) and ran everything down from those. Looks much better inside my panel and he labeled it all going in and out.
I fell off but this right here got me back on I’m going to cop a notebook right now. And watching part 2 right now as well the long video make a man not want to sit there cause I be bored wit short videos too but this was it.🔥
I wait for these videos almost as much as I wait for Christmas!
Well Merry Goddamn Christmas my dude 🤘🤘🤘⚡️⚡️
@@val4414 Thanks man! I got my inspiration for the twist connectors video from Dustin for sure 💪🏼
Something I learned the other day when doing a weather head. Tape the wires inside the weather head for you it was white and red just for future reference when someone is working on it,you can just peak into the weather head and see the tape because most of the time that tape on the wire loses color from being in the elements over time. Something I never did but an old guy I work with did it and I was like thats a good idea!
The Utility Company only cares about the Neutral...
@@steve-o6413 taping it in the weather head isn't for the utility company its for the next guy who has to cut the line drop and hook it back up for whatever reason. It just saves an extra step for the next guy
@@sumochop360 real professionals use the stop rule lol (Screw The Other Person) 🤣🤣 only a craftsman thinks about the future or the next guy 😉
@@sumochop360 the only one who would probably ever have reason to do that is the Utility Company or Fire Department and I'm sure they know too leave a little extra bare wire for identifying the Neutral otherwise ring it out with a jumper wire...
We are always trained on testing everything. Good idea though especially when working with 3 phase 208v. You need to not run the wild leg to one of the 120v branch circuit bars.
THANK MY INSTRUCTOR!! HE INTRODUCED US TO EU, NOW IM JUST TAKING OFF WITH THESE VIDEOS. HELPS ME SO MUCH!!
using white 3/0 for neutral instead of taping? cost difference? cheers. nice to see some different practices
We used to use White paint for roof, an tape inside panels. But tape has been accepted for years...
Im an apprentice and been in school for about 3 months now and man your videos are super helpful especially when I first started class, love your videos man!
sparky channel is another great apprentice resource
Great video, for safety reasons it's always best to stand to the right of the panel disconnect and turn on or shut off the power with your left arm , just incase the panel for some reason ( and it happens) explodes , that way your body is facing away from the front of the panel..Also at the street where the main power was switched off, I didn't see any lockout...Please excuse me I'm wrong..Again great video and awesome presentation!!! Looking forward to watching more of your videos..
Your videos are awesome and another good thing is that I'm moving to Texas next month Gods willing, thank you for what you do
Very cool. I know nothing about electrical work but these videos give me a nice appreciation for the trade.
Hey buddy who is responsible for making the terminations at the weather head and if its the homeowner what type of connector application is used? Are polaris taps acceptable? Thx
It looks like you slimmed up a bit, I'm glad to see that you are healthy and doing well!!!
Thanks man! Good to know there are folks out there watching my videos to make sure I'm staying fit 🤣 I need all the help I can get these days. Seriously...after the divorce I lost an insane amount of weight, then put a whole shit load back on and got the heaviest I'd ever been, and now I'm back to....normalish. Still going to the gym, still eating clean, doing a lot of work on my mind these days. It's amazing what being 35, single, and having the freedom to chase my ambition to no end is doing for my perspective on life. For the first time in my life, I'm free to be a workaholic and not feel guilty about it. Thanks for watching my friend!
I really appreciate your efforts and thoughts.watching your video's and working details will let anyone gravitate into electrical installation.
Thanks for sharing your awesome video. Can you route wires through the holes on the side of the panel since no holes are available on the top or bottom of the panel. Thanks
1st year local 3, and im learning more from you
I love how, as a fellow Austin electrician who's aware of all the special rules that come along with working here, I can reference any of this guy's videos and know, for sure, that its legal in the city
YOU ARE A GODSEND DUDE!!!!!
Wish we had these in my state. Inside services take way more time and effort. You definitely convinced me to move lol.
Looks great, Is romex allowed to enter the exterior main service panel from inside the house? How are the wires supported inside before the box?
Bro, thank you. You're videos have helped me way now than you could ever imagine as a electrician
Always great videos Dustin but I have a non electrical question for you. What kind of watch were you wearing in that video I like the look of it and I just broke the strap on mine a week or so ago. Keep then videos ah comin!
I'm looking forward to seeing how you address the short service runs, great job so far, not that I expected anything else
I always addressed them first thing. On of my goals was to have no wirenuts in the panel :). If I had one or two, I'd hide them lol.
I would relocate where the cables came out of the building to get more length.and/or relocate the panel a bit if possible. Sometimes I'd have to punch new holes in the back of the panel but it was worth the effort to have a clean panel at the end.
@@jackconnolly2665 And if that fails, send the new guy to bring you the cable stretcher from the truck!
@@jackconnolly2665
Outdoor panel, can't have penetrations the same height as the gear and you're limited on main breaker height.
This channel is incredible for ECs and engineers. May not be a possibility, but only thing I would've tried to do different is put panel inside the house. Don't know what's on the opposite side of that wall but the panel would not be subjected to weather plus you could use extra slack of branch circuits to reconnect to all the breakers.
In the process of doing the same what made you go with the square d QO style vs home line or even Eaton brands.
I know the new panel has a main breaker, under what circumstances would you install a main disconnect between the main panel and meter?
Personally, I am having some work done since where I live they won't let me do it myself.
So when I get this work done I am having a main disconnect put in between the meter and panel so that when I want to do work on my own home and my own panel, I can simply walk outside, throw the main disconnect, lock it out with my lock and tag and go inside and do the work.
This allows me to upgrade panels, fix lugs, heck even run a new service entrance line if I felt the need.
Right now my area uses smart meters, in the old days I would pop the meter out and do my work, now if that meter comes out it tells on me and I have a very annoyed duke energy guy coming out or a fine coming in the mail for "tampering".
My current house has a 100amp main service to the meter, a completely degraded SEU cable going to the panel in my house, and by degraded I mean the aluminum neutral is exposed completely. But that isn't even the worst part, at the panel some genius decided it would b a good idea to double lug another length of SEU, run it across my basement ceiling, through a conduit buried in concrete, and feed it to my garage panel, the garage panel, of course, has no shutoff and is an old 3 phase panel they jumpered one leg of the SEU to so that it would "work".
So right now even if I shut off my main panel that garage panel is still live, there is no way to shut down my garage panel in the event of a problem without pulling the meter.
And though I can fix this entire issue for the cost of 1 nice new panel, a handful of new breakers, some new service entrance cable, and my time, I cannot do so without pulling the meter.
If I had a main disconnect I could fix this entire clusterfuck and make my house safe.
Then all I would need to do is get a new pan, conduit, and weatherhead ready to go, call the power company to come to disconnect me at the pole, and quickly upgrade the incoming service line to finish the job.
What should be a simple job, is now going to require me to have my power shut off for an extended period of time while I fix the issues instead of being able to take care of it easily it is now a massive pain in the rear and is going to cost me 8 times the cost of doing it myself.
And the worst part, since it would be mine I would be REALLY anal about the panel I got, the features, the wiring paths, the cable management, etc. I have no clue how meticulous the electrician will be.
I needed this. I don’t know if I’ll be doing it myself but I needed this. Just had a high wind storm and the electrical company’s power pole yanked out the wire from the riser. Now they are saying it’s on me to replace everything. The panel was already old but I think the yanking of the wire did it to the panel. 😭
You work that heavy gauge wire as though it were taffy. You're definitely a master.
These are relatively easy to bend, try 3/0 cu and up 😅
@@AlexMartinez-dc4pe Ha ha, yeah you'd probably need a conduit bender to bend those lol
@@aaron74 I use a hickey with the handle cut short for 500s
QUESTION: Just outside my walk out basement I have a meter box and (2) main house breaker Cutler/Hammer enclosures (long skinny enclosures, one on each side of meter box). Each enclosure has just ONE 150amp breaker, no other breakers and no brackets our cutouts to put in additional breakers, just the 150's, then power from those (2) breakers outside feed the (2) house multi breaker panels inside the house, in basement.
I want to hook up (2) portable generators (220v at 30 or maybe 50 amps each) at the location of the meter and these (2) main breakers with inlet plug boxes, interlocks AND breakers (30 or 50 amp depending on generator capacity). One generator per service box so I can access all areas in the house with the option to run or not run. It is a walk out basement on a large concrete pad that also has a couple of HVAC condenser units so having (2) generators in some vented enclosures close by will work fine...
The biggest obstacle that I can see is that the outside 150amp breaker enclosures don't appear to have a way to put in additional breakers to control the generators (with lockouts to block power back to the utility) and to control the generator power back into the house. As mentioned above, these enclosures just have the 150 amp breakers and inside the enclosure it splices neutrals and grounds (using blocks) from the meter, then sends everything to the inside panels.
Do I have to totally change these 150 amp service boxes or is there a way to add breakers to these enclosures? I assume that changing out these main breaker enclosures means turning of the power at meter...
Nice install man! I have a question. What is the best way to pull Romex out of its packaging without it twisting? Thank you!
Start in the middle of the roll! That is if you are using 250 feet or less. 500 foot rolls, stick 1/2 inch emt through and carry on!
Get a $40 Wire buggy, it pays for itself.
Or get some exercise and walk it out. Unwrap some coils and roll it out and use..
They do make a fancy device you can easily mount on the 2×4 that like a wire caddy but sits sideways for a easy feed...
run it thru a pipe (emt or find a friendly plumber) nailed on studs or on a heavy bucket/pal or just staple up a strip of nm-b between two studs a poor but simple reel lol
Thanks for all the time you take to make all these informative videos. Had a question regarding one of your videos when you talked about sizing conductors for single dwelling services. If i have a 200A service can i use 310.12 (A) which states conductor ampacity can be not less than 83%. So can i use 1/0 THHN which is good for 170A 83% of 200 is 166. Thank you
Where can I buy those type of cutters that you used in minute 9:00?
Thanks
I was wondering the same thing.
Found something similar www.amazon.com/dp/B0018YQF92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_e0l0FbKHQ0X8Y
Thanks Peter
absolutely the easiest panel change scenario ive ever seen. do one in the interior wall back to back meter with rotted wood and dont damage existing wall. and none of the wires reach. maybe an old fpe panel
Oh those are so fun. I love going in a welfare hoard trailer to replace an FPE that was actually working just fine. The department of human and health services noticed it and required it to be replaced. I had to kneel in garbage and dog feces with fleas biting me for an hour. At least it was on the rear bedroom wall facing the door and all the wires were easy to get to.
Thanks for the videos I just finished watching part 2 of this one here I'm currently doing pretty much the same thing upgrading to a 200 amp panel with breaker GE just curious going from 125 to 200 what size ground wire and ground rod should I use thank you or what would you recommend and I live in Austin
Grateful for your content my Bro! Helps me out heaps as I’m learning to be an electrician.
Question: how do I replace the aluminum bar that’s melted in an old meter box safely? The screw that held it together also melted.
So happy to have helped you out!
To answer your question: Have service disconnect. Then do it. Or have someone who is licensed and trained already do it.
Nice job explaining, clean and neat workmanship...
Love your channel you're a great communicator. 8 :42 didn't like that you turned the razor knife towards your wrist never cut towards yourself. Thanks for the great content.
i just find your page and the first thing my son says wtf happen to his bread HAHAHA my son is going to trade school for electrician program... appreciate your page and the knowledge you share...
Hey Dustin, when you're putting in a off grid inverter to a breaker box, does the ground and the neutral need to be bonded? Thank you! Just wanted to say I'm a big fan and I've learned so so much from your channel. Wish you could do a video one day about inverters and what are some of the codes for how to wire up a inverter to breaker boxes. And so it can be legal Again, thank you
So satisfying!! I love being an Electrician! 💪🙃
Great job and great vodeo but ,No equipment grounding to your grounding electrode on the meterside or the load side ?
Next level content Dustin really well planned and thought out.
I think its "Dustin"
@@peterrubchinuk6364 yes you are correct
I only work in a shop for now, but man I appreciate the free knowledge you put out! I'm hoping to step into the field sometime this year!
Good on you my man, the trade is bitchen and always will be
Hi Dustin, what type of cable did you use for the service entrance? Can you use THHN? Are SE-R or SE-U are normally use for service entrance applications?
Not an electrician fyi but had mine redone recently. SEU doesn't have a ground, so that's typically from meter to panel and then you've got your ground coming from your ground rod(s). SER has the 4th wire in it for ground so you use that for everything after your grounded and bonded first panel/disconnect, typically sub panels (even your main panel is a sub-panel if it's after a main disconnect.)
Do you ever use a hex style torque(sp?) device/wrench when you connect the wires to the electrical box, I saw your hex handheld device and I saw another video on installing a Nema 14-50 and suggested using a torque to tighten all the connections to the specifications and that was the first time I had seen a torque wrenching device other than what I am familiar with on a car engine. But I was curious what your thoughts are on tightening hex or screw or bolts (if applicable) thanks Jim
You forgot my favorite step...
Label all wires before removing from the breakers.
Lol
You mean the 2 circuits that are labeled
land them and do a proper panel schedule afterwards. lot easier
Looks like this panel wasn't labeled lol. Just tone the circuits out from the panel. That way there's no guess work for the next guy, or end user.
@@Granturry98 so you did his work for him for free?
Dustin can you please explain to me why you use the green insulated bonding conductor on the conduit connector in the meter box? Also where does it connect to on the other end? Would you also have any reference links to this concept? Thank you as always for your awesome and educational channel?
I have two wires from the meter, both black, then the bare ground. Would that make one load, one neutral, and bare ground? Would those two black go one on the left bus and other on the right?
1968 built.
A testament to quality craftmanship and materials.
Be 1968!
Thank you for sharing this valuable electrical explanation.
Hello sir. I have a question that you may possibly help with.
Q: is it possible / allowable to splice into the MAIN POWER from the utility transformer that comes into the to of my main panel on 2AWG, and run this to an additional panel that I'll locate a few feet away. If so, how or where do i lock out and isolate the pet that comes into the panel?
Thanks in advance!
Eddie
how do you disconnect the incoming power to take everything apart?
Exactly what I’m wondering... maybe contact the utility company?
Have to contact power company & have them cut power
Double pole buzz bar. I have never seen one as of yet but it seems the boss.
AWESOME video!! thank you very, very much!! I love how thoroughly and informative you explained everything! It's also very helpful [to me] that you're in Texas.
What kind of wire do you use for the drop? The only wire I find in my area is underground cable. The only UV resistant wire is SEU in a jacket.
Hello my Amigo soy electricista Venezolano trabajando en Argentina saludo muy bueno tu vídeo 💪
anti seize paste on riser or even better nylon tape or pipe dope a little more watertight plus i wld have used ductseal on the head yes not a big deal great job as always
@
wizard3z castor I thought same thing about the threads!
Clear caulk.
Got a question about 3phase 460. I had a air compressor not starting. So I checked at the main disconnect for incoming voltage. When I did L1-L2 =480 L1-L-3= 480, L2-L3=480.
but when I checked each leg to ground. L1= 480 L2=0 L3=480. I was told that even if my meter reads 0 for L2 it is a good leg. Why would my meter read 0. I thought I was missing a leg of power the whole time. Heard it was called Deads Man's Leg. Any info on this would be awesome.
I been learning so much from your videos before I start my apprenticeship in September
Your work is beautiful and useful, I hope I am healthy and safe
If the majority of my house is has appliances the only appliance that will use more power is the oven since it’s an electric oven and a/c is gas too but I am trying to replace my main meter is 120/150 amp box good? Or should upgrade to 200 amp?
Does your required inspector require an an emergency disconnect per NEC 2020 article 230.85? Or since the panelboard is outdoor with the 200A main shut off does that qualified, along with the label.
Question: according to 2020 NEC code change to 230.85, I can’t figure out if I can use the main breaker in my outdoor panel as a emergency disconnect. Thoughts?
I have a question for you. I n a above ground pool. There is a dedicated GFI feeding the pump. Bonding in done to code. The problem I am having getting stray voltage at the pool. Getting shocks when sitting at edge of the pool with feet in . Any suggestions on where to look for the problem
Do you have to have SER cable for the weather head and riser or is that a city or utility stipulation?
Electrician Here up in the Pacific NW. Highly recommend trying out the leviton panels. We used to use Sq D and Eaton but since changing to Leviton had no issues and make up is really quick on Rough. Also im sure your probably aware but little trick we use with rigid coming into Hub, we squeeze a little No Ox on the threads and seems to go in pretty easy. Great Vid btw
Smart, I use clear caulk. 2 in 1.
After 30 seconds I liked and subscribed. I can tell you know what you’re doing. I look forward to watching all your channel.