Thank you I have soldered electronics in the past. I have an old T-Bone that I can practice on. It value if cleaned up and playable would be in the $75-$100 range. I think I will give it a go and see how it turns out.
Well, it wasn't a musical instrument, but an antique brass samovar silver plated. The finial broke off at previously soldered joint, that I was trying to resolder. I used a mini hand held blow torch. I cleaned previous residue with a small file, and sandpaper, dipped the finial broken end in the flux (sort of waxy yellowish paste, sit the finial in the hole in the lid where it was supposed to go. gave it a few turns to apply the flux on the edges of the hole, and heated the joint. then I tried to put the thin solder wire on the joint hoping that it will do the capilary action and go around the joint. But it kept forming little beads and roll off the joint onto the lid and froze there. I had to used the copper mesh ribbon to heat up those beads to lift them off. So, what am I doing wrong. Eventually, I had to use the soldering iron to jam in the thin wire in the joint to atleast keep the finial stable in place. Was the heat from the torch too high? Was I using too much flux? Should I have used a thicker solder wire? I hope you or somebody reads this and toss in a solution.
Good afternoon l play alto and tenor saxes l do my own repairs very soon lwill be migrating to the US and l plan to make repairing insts a career keep up the good work
I have an off-brand trumpet that needs a tube soldered. that'll be good practice before I do the unsoldered braces on the concert mellophone (Olds Ambassador) and euphonium (Yamaha). I want a little experience before working on the quality horns.
Excellent videos, I'm pretty fond of your channel ! Just a question : do you use a simple air-gas torch (propane torch) for silver soldering ? I'd thought it would require an oxygen-gas... good to know since oxygen is rather expensive. Do you have a reference of your torch ? I'm in Europe so it will probably be hard to find the same, but at least I could find something similar.
Can you use lead-free solder like in this video? www.google.com/search?q=soldering+without+lead&oq=soldering+without+lead&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l2.3200j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1 It seems like the melting point is a lot lower than the silver solder. One thing that occurred to me is that it does contain a very small amount of copper in the alloy, and I wondered whether there might be chemical properties of something that is partly copper based that wouldn't work with brass (since it's also copper based).
I am not sure, but I think the lead-free solder would not be nearly as strong as the silver solder. If you were to use it in place of soft solder, the higher melting temperature would burn any lacquer near the solder joint.
Thank you I have soldered electronics in the past. I have an old T-Bone that I can practice on. It value if cleaned up and playable would be in the $75-$100 range. I think I will give it a go and see how it turns out.
Just checked in again for some more helpful information, as I am buying some soldering equipment. Thank you!
GREAT INTRODUCTION TO SOLDERING VIDEO.
Well, it wasn't a musical instrument, but an antique brass samovar silver plated. The finial broke off at previously soldered joint, that I was trying to resolder. I used a mini hand held blow torch. I cleaned previous residue with a small file, and sandpaper, dipped the finial broken end in the flux (sort of waxy yellowish paste, sit the finial in the hole in the lid where it was supposed to go. gave it a few turns to apply the flux on the edges of the hole, and heated the joint. then I tried to put the thin solder wire on the joint hoping that it will do the capilary action and go around the joint. But it kept forming little beads and roll off the joint onto the lid and froze there. I had to used the copper mesh ribbon to heat up those beads to lift them off. So, what am I doing wrong. Eventually, I had to use the soldering iron to jam in the thin wire in the joint to atleast keep the finial stable in place. Was the heat from the torch too high? Was I using too much flux? Should I have used a thicker solder wire? I hope you or somebody reads this and toss in a solution.
Good afternoon l play alto and tenor saxes l do my own repairs very soon lwill be migrating to the US and l plan to make repairing insts a career keep up the good work
I have an off-brand trumpet that needs a tube soldered. that'll be good practice before I do the unsoldered braces on the concert mellophone (Olds Ambassador) and euphonium (Yamaha).
I want a little experience before working on the quality horns.
Excellent videos - looking forward to the next ones. Thank you!
very helpfull video, im very interseted to see your next video about soft and hard soldering..
thank you for the info
Nice microtorch! What brand is it?
thanks
Thank you for the vid I have a very old trombone that falls apart frequently and I’m tired of sending it into the shop
Excellent videos, I'm pretty fond of your channel !
Just a question : do you use a simple air-gas torch (propane torch) for silver soldering ? I'd thought it would require an oxygen-gas... good to know since oxygen is rather expensive.
Do you have a reference of your torch ? I'm in Europe so it will probably be hard to find the same, but at least I could find something similar.
very helpful, thank you
Very Well!!
Excelent! Thank you!
Can you use 60/40 solder with a rosin core? Or is it better without the rosin?
I have never used rosin core solder, so I am not sure. I think that the rosin core is better for electronics, but I am not sure.
@@TheBrassandWoodwindShop hi where is ur workshop ? Wich country?
bueno no sé si pueda traducir esto me gustaría saber cómo. se refería las yaves de octavas las dos en el tudel y la segunda ? gracias
Mi Espanol es mal. Uno llave abrir a el mismo tiempo.
Can you use lead-free solder like in this video? www.google.com/search?q=soldering+without+lead&oq=soldering+without+lead&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l2.3200j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1
It seems like the melting point is a lot lower than the silver solder. One thing that occurred to me is that it does contain a very small amount of copper in the alloy, and I wondered whether there might be chemical properties of something that is partly copper based that wouldn't work with brass (since it's also copper based).
I am not sure, but I think the lead-free solder would not be nearly as strong as the silver solder. If you were to use it in place of soft solder, the higher melting temperature would burn any lacquer near the solder joint.
My man...