Install Klipper on ANY 3d printer - Part 3 - Adding New Features
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- Covering things like do you need a raspberry pi, which interface, and setting up basic configuations on common machines
In this part we start by creating a printer.cfg from scratch, this part came up much longer than i planned during editing so is being split into 2 parts
SUPER HANDY LINKS
www.klipper3d.org/ - Plenty of documentation and FAQ
github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/ - Klipper Github
docs.vorondesign.com/build/st... - Startup Checks
github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/... - Example Configs
octoprint.org/
docs.mainsail.xyz/
docs.fluidd.xyz/
Klipper on an orange pi zero example in video
www.nathantsoi.com/blog/klipp...
0:00 Adding a probe
2:08 Safe Z Home
2:57 Mainsail/Fluidd Specific Config
4:08 Additional .cfg files
4:37 Startup Checks
5:13 Stepper Buzz (movement check)
5:50 Correct/reverse Motor Direction
7:12 Set Homing Direction/Endstop Position
8:31 Setup/verify Endstops
9:10 Pull up/down resistor
9:27 Test Homing (KEEP HAND ON E-STOP/POWER SWITCH)
9:54 Setup a Bed Mesh
11:54 Final Pre-Print Checks
12:14 Outro
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I NOW HAVE A TWITTER, follow me @ / 3dpnero - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
12:23 I definitely like that smash button. Thanks door this detailed series. You're going to be the one to get my Klipper going on both machines. Cheers!
Can't wait for the next episode! Finally I'm running klipper
@nero 3D you asked for suggestions for a follow up.
1. Custom start G-code macros
2. Custom end G-code macros
3. Timelapse macros.
4. Stall guard settings tune for sensorless home
While I already knew most of this, there is still a few things I might check or add to my config files. Thanks.
I know I ask this a lot. But I'd love if you showed how to do a idex config or a dual extruder with mixing hotend.
Do you recommend a certain bed probe? Love your videos ❤
Hi. I’m planning to make a 6 nozzle printer using MKS Monster 8. Can you make a video on how to combine 2 motherboards together by Kilpper? Thank you
@NERO 3D Hi, I think that making a video about setting up multiple klipper printers with one RPI would be nice. Especially considering their current price and availability. What do you think? There is not much information about it on youtube.
I Had a VERY annoying problem leading me through 8 different attempts at flashing mcu and the pi. I now realized after 4 days of troubleshooting that this was caused by the USB type-A cable that connected my SKR 1.4 turbo to the pi. symptoms were a laggy user interface in both mainsail and fluidd, got several different faultcodes in klippy stating "mcu 'mcu': Unable to open serial port" errors in the mainsail interface etc.
Damn i feel like setting fire to that usb cable. I hope this helps for anyone else having the troubles i did. :)
for klipper doc site turn off the light next to the search box :D If you borrow from other config is it ok I never return it?
I did this yest.. by chance have you hung your config and macros anywhere?
Please cover stepper voltage tuning, I could not find a good guide on it. Especially moving from stock/factory board to klipper.
Also, klipper documentation has a work around for stealthchop sound levels without losing accuracy, by increasing micro steps from 16 to 64 or 128 in spreadcycle. Would love to know your opinion @Nero3D.
what do you do if its still not moving? The wiring appears to be correct however my printer is not moving the steppers.
Is there a way to do probe temperature compensation? The one necessary for Pinda 2?
How did you post this reaction 14 hours ago? The video is just 40 min old at moment of writing this.
I'm using Pinda 2 as well, have been looking for this but no luck. But I make use of the probe sensor to ensure it measure bed at the same temperature everytime before printing.
For instance, when my E5 plus's bed at 60C, it can heat up the probe to 40C at home position after around 10mins, so I setup a gcode to wait for the probe to heatup before start measuring bed.
I know it a workaround and it increase a lot of wait time before printing, but it forces me to heat soak the printer. I've been printing with this setup for few months now and no more probe drift since.
Another downside, I have to set multiple probe temp condition for different materials with various bed temp.
@@thai9503 time travel... Your reply was the reason that I traveled back and time and added this comment.
Gotta fork over the coin for a superpinda.
I'm still confused on where each software package/cfg file is installed. I've got the Pi OS, Klipper, Mainsail, Moonraker... and they all kind of blur together. Nothing is running on the printer control board? just the .cfg file? Which file/program is talking to which?
I had a lot of problems to running Klipper, still have. now it seems everything working fine, but Auto bed leveling/Mesh leveling giving error it saying probe triggered because of the movement, my Printer is Biqu b1 se plus. No problem when homing.
Any idea??
I'm confused... Where is the step when you flash your printers motherboard with the klipper build? My printer has SKR 1.4 Turbo and it currently has marlin. Can someone tell me where the step is where you build the klipper firmware for the motherboard and flash it?
Is it possible to run Klipperscreen on an old Andriod Tablet? I saw a video where a guy installed klipperscreen on an RP pi 4 to monitor all his printers which had there own klipper. Could i do that with my android tablet as well?
What happens if you put include printer.cfg into mainsail.cfg while printer.cfg has include mainsail.cfg?
Where do u get ur picos, or raspys at all from? It's barely impossible to buy some in Europe
The pico was sent to me from btt. The RPis were all purchased. But before they became scarce
How do you control Neopixels based on temperature, like setting them from blue to red as the bed/nozzle heats up?
The config is python, so you could write a function to vary the color based on temperature
Question: how would you configure z-end-stop detection like on cr-6 that have both an optical switch plus a strain gauge in the hot end assembly? As i understand it uses the optical switch as a pre-detect to avoid mashing into the bed, but i am completely lost as to how to configure it. Thanks.
Following as I am a cr-6 user as well
Also eager to know. have an anycubic chiron with dual optical z stops.
You need to make your usual .cfg or use one of the premades on the github, keep the Z endstop_pin asigned to the optical switch or your endstop that it's on the frame, then make a [probe] section with the pin assigned to your strain gauge (AFAIK the board has a dedicated microcontroller for the strain gauge and a HX711 load cell amplifier to handle the reading and only output a digital signal), just keep in mind that your Z endstop needs to trigger a little bit lower than the bed otherwise if the endstop it's higher than the bed you would crash into the endstop when bed probing.
I would suggest to go slow when probing with the strain gauge or try to match the factory speed couse gauge sampling can be slow and creality don't give that info.
Remember that you need to add the necesary [bed_mesh] and [screws_tilt_adjust] if desired to the .cfg in order to use the probing capabilities.
If you find that when Z homming with the Z endstop makes the nozzle hit the bed you can make a [safe_z_home] and put an almost max X coordinates (on ender like printers going max X makes the nozzle clear the bed and avoid hitting it) this would make that when homming the printer would home first X and Y, then move the printer head to the "safe Z coordinates" and the Z home on the endstop, the you can proceed to your G code, hope this helps.
@@fdavpach thanks for the input. Some of it very useful other contradicting my observations. When the z endstop is optical it can detect above the bed ( it does now) but the tab crossing the optics need to be long enough for the top part not bottoming out. I need to look into the other settings you mention.
@@helenenordve4285 oh right right if your optical sensor tab can go through the sensor you just have to be aware of not bottoming out the sensor, the stock end stop placement should work
Smash