you make it look easy lol plus you have the right tools to do it if that we're me I would have already busted my knuckles and started cursing haha good job restoring this ol cub I have a cub cadet 71 narrow frame that has some I save tractors parts on it you have everything I need for an engine rebuild if I need to
Hey Norm Great video! I think those are properly termed “planetary” gears or cluster! I’m wondering why you don’t pressure wash off a lot of the built up debris, grease & dirt before starting? The air is the next best thing but should also be done outside before bringing the tractor into the shop! At least that’s my approach when possible! I’d really enjoy hearing your take on this as you do a lot of work on these and I respect your opinion!! Thanks Lee
I had to cut my slotted screws off with a real sharp cold chisel, so I had to drill and tap new holes next to the old ones. Didn't own Easy Outs! They were rusted beyond hope anyway.
What is best way to get intouch with you Norman? I have 4 complete IH Cub Cadets, 2 narrow- 102 and 104 with 12hp so... 124 with 104 hood... 2 wide frames- 147 and 149.
A shaft transfers more power than a belt. A shaft will cause more damage if the transmission wasn't strong enough to take on a full load. A belt if pushed beyond its limit will begin to slip
I pull these tractors plus work them hard every day on the 3 speeds use 4 q of 10w30 synthetic (factory spec is 3.5 but that’s just not quite enough) and use hytran on the hydros can’t remember how much tho
I'm still an International Harvester man. BUT after realizing the ruggedness of the Sears Suburban and old Wheel Horse plus the simplicity they're made makes them more favorable machines to tinker with. Like I have an old Sears Custom that engine was blown and I've pulled it and used a 13hp Honda clone then replaced with a 6.5 Clonda without any issues. Just figured it didn't need the 13 hp for pulling stuff around the homestead. Just saying the side shaft belt driven machines are more user friendly than the IH Cub Cadet. I still have several Cub Cadets but don't plan on altering them like I do the Sears.
you make it look easy lol plus you have the right tools to do it if that we're me I would have already busted my knuckles and started cursing haha good job restoring this ol cub I have a cub cadet 71 narrow frame that has some I save tractors parts on it you have everything I need for an engine rebuild if I need to
Hey Norm
Great video!
I think those are properly termed “planetary” gears or cluster! I’m wondering why you don’t pressure wash off a lot of the built up debris, grease & dirt before starting? The air is the next best thing but should also be done outside before bringing the tractor into the shop! At least that’s my approach when possible! I’d really enjoy hearing your take on this as you do a lot of work on these and I respect your opinion!!
Thanks
Lee
Really enjoy your channel. Keep up the good work!
Save the tractors, save the world.
I had to cut my slotted screws off with a real sharp cold chisel, so I had to drill and tap new holes next to the old ones. Didn't own Easy Outs! They were rusted beyond hope anyway.
he had about 1/4 in of lip on that 2by4 on the jacks on the front of the tractor.
I have the 169, Im going to add hockey pucks to raise the rear/body fender by 1 inch.
Never pulled the back cover off my 149 yet, but jeez that differential almost looks the same size as my 85 diesel suburban's.
The rear ends in the IH Cub Cadets were the same rear ends used in the Farmall Cub Farm Tractors. They are beasts!
What is best way to get intouch with you Norman? I have 4 complete IH Cub Cadets, 2 narrow- 102 and 104 with 12hp so... 124 with 104 hood... 2 wide frames- 147 and 149.
Info@isavetractors.com
I47 is a narrow frame
why dont they use drive shafts anymore instead of belts
Mainly due to cost. People mainly use small tractors to mow lawns, and a shaft driven transmission is not needed for that task.
yes i understand that but would it be better to have a shaft or belts. what would cause more damage if it failed?
A shaft transfers more power than a belt. A shaft will cause more damage if the transmission wasn't strong enough to take on a full load. A belt if pushed beyond its limit will begin to slip
How can I get ahold of you ? I have I think a bad rear end but it's just 2 gear it makes noise but all the other gears are good its weird
Gonna need to rebuild it if doing the same thing rn
Would a impact screwdriver not do the job?
It typically doesn't have as much torque as an impact wrench
isavetractors I reckon so I used one of those on a side panel screw on my 314 and it worked great
I use impact drivers and impact wrenches. Both have their place in the shop.
isavetractors I agree love your videos btw I started watching them when I saw this loader backhoe build plan on building one for my John Deere
What do you use for fluid in the rear end?
I pull these tractors plus work them hard every day on the 3 speeds use 4 q of 10w30 synthetic (factory spec is 3.5 but that’s just not quite enough) and use hytran on the hydros can’t remember how much tho
Just so you know it’s not required to remove the roll pin to remove the engine.....
Did you know that there is a drain plug on the right side it’s a flat head
Iam looking for good tractor 4x4 with a loader pto not new if you can help me not over price
I'm still an International Harvester man. BUT after realizing the ruggedness of the Sears Suburban and old Wheel Horse plus the simplicity they're made makes them more favorable machines to tinker with. Like I have an old Sears Custom that engine was blown and I've pulled it and used a 13hp Honda clone then replaced with a 6.5 Clonda without any issues. Just figured it didn't need the 13 hp for pulling stuff around the homestead. Just saying the side shaft belt driven machines are more user friendly than the IH Cub Cadet. I still have several Cub Cadets but don't plan on altering them like I do the Sears.
That diff looks brand new. Iv seen worse 2 year old BMW diffs
i got a mt20d that needs gear work yaa..lol