If you want to enjoy the long life of the single-cylinder engine in your AJP I would recommend that you use much shorter service oil intervals. On my 2005 KTM LC4 Adventure (single, 625ccm, 1.9-2 liters of 10W50/10W60 Motorex Power Synt or Cross Synt oil along with TWO oil filters) the service schedule is for changes every max. 5000km, and if the motorcycle is used intensively (high temperatures, fast riding or high dust, etc.) then the change must be done after 2500km, maximum 3000km. Frequent oil changes greatly increase the life of the engine. Particularly sensitive to oil quality is the cylinder head (camshaft, guides and valve stems, etc.). In addition, it is worth mentioning that in a large-capacity single-cylinder engine (over 500ccm) there is a very large piston, which, due to its diameter, is characterized by large blowouts between the cylinder wall and the piston, which occur until the engine reaches the right operating temperature. These blowouts cause the fuel mixture to enter the oil, which is why the oil in single-cylinder engines loses its lubricating properties more quickly than in multi-cylinder engines with small piston diameters. That's why it's all the more reason to change the oil in such engines frequently. The absolute maximum is 6000km between oil changes. Mesh filter cleaning can be used once every 25-30 thousand kilometers, especially the one difficult to access under the clutch cover.
Thank you for this video. Very informative and well produced. I am very interested in this bike! Anything you can show is highly anticipated! There are so few on the road and so few in the USA. They seem to be a great deal for the types of multi-day dirt-road tours we have here (MABDR, TAT). I am very interested in reliability, parts availability, fit & finish. I don't want to be 2-3000km away from home and have a breakdown that I can't easily fix. Thanks, again!
More videos coming soon. Here in Europe parts supply seems well organized. The engine by SWM is basically the old Husqvarna TE630 lump with a different fuel injection system. Engine parts are easy to get. I broke the rear suspension linkage and smashed the exhaust pipe. These are AJP parts. The dealership here in The Netherlands got these parts from Portugal within a few days. The factory has all these parts readily available and they ship fast. Reliability has been good except for the awful rear brake setup which I resolved with a different disk and pads. The 2020 model has a bunch of improvements such as Brembo brakes. Another good bike in the same playing field is the Honda CRF450L. Although you'd have to spend some money on a larger fuel tank and other goodies which the AJP comes with standard. The AJP is as simple as it gets in these modern days. Few electronics. You can for instance start the bike while on the side stand and in gear. I like this simplicity.
@@joacerbis One thing to keep in mind about CRF450L is that it has 1000km oil change intervals vs 5000km in AJP PR7. Although I have to say that oil change on crf450l looks a lot easier to perform.
Hello from FRANCE You're in luck ! because you have not paid much attention to the shaft of the oil pump because you have to be very careful of it when you disassemble the clutch housing, and especially when you reassemble the housing you have to check the position of the shaft compared to the drive of the crankshaft on these engines !!!
Hello, thank you for your video. I go you the AJP PR7 of 2021 and I have 2 important questions. 1) Is it good to clean the metal oil filters with brake cleaner? Won't there be any residues? Would it be convenient to clean with gasoline after the brake cleaner to avoid any brake cleaner particles inside the engine? 2) The oil filter that is more hidden, is it possible to remove it without removing the pipe or manifolds and without breaking it? THANKS
I doubt that it will make a difference using brake cleaner or gasoline. Use what you have. Yes, you can remove the oil filter without removing the manifolds. Remove the muffler and undo the bolt that holds it in place along with the brake pedal. Then you can press down on the pipe just enough to have space to remove the filter without bending. This way you don't have to undo the pipe at the cylinder head and saves you a bunch of hassle.
Your oil filter was incorrectly installed at your last service, and you reinstalled it incorrectly on thos service...The hole in the filter is supposed to face the other way...4 years later, os this bike still running?
Thanks for watching. You cannot physically place the oil filter in the wrong way. It wouldn't fit. I sold the bike a few years back. It was in great condition then and I'm confident the new owner took good care of it.
Good video! Is it me or is it completely ridiculous to have to remove the side cover and brake pedal for every oil change? Who thought this was a good idea?? There should be a small access cover over that filter..
Hi Titus, the manual does not specify much beyond how to change a light bulb. I recommend looking at the bottom right mesh filter during first inspection after engine break-in, as this is when most metal particles will come out, and then every 10k. No need to check too often.
Hi Jose, it's a generic paddockstand. No brand. Sells for around 30Euro. Got it from my local motorbike shop. In my opinion a must have for any motorbike with a chain. And when doing the oil, it's more practical then the one you put underneath the engine.
I would clean the hidden strainer with the first oil change and then every other oil change. 10k, 20k etc. I have to agree with you that the design is not the most user friendly.
@@markodjurovic4343 you don't need to remove the exhaust pipe... I don't know why Rogier had this in mind but I did remove the clutch cover and the strainer with the pipe in place and ith care, I didn't brake the strainer...
The manual recommends to use 10w50. That means 50 weight when warm and 10 when cold. My bike does not use any oil, which is surprising for a big single.
@@joacerbis- Thank you for information. Not so surprising this engine is a veteran from where the "ruff edges" have been solved over a long time. By all means a good bet. Cheers
As per comment below- get the stronger filter from SWM - mine was broken in half ( lucky not broken up in engine ) I know of at least 6 SWM Superdual that needed engine rebuilds because of this ) I run the SWM Australia fb page and did inform the AJP PR7 Australia fb page
Bought my first one who I was 18 yes old. Cost me a fortune back in the days. Still have it. I have a second one as well. I fancy one with a digital gauge though.
If you want to enjoy the long life of the single-cylinder engine in your AJP I would recommend that you use much shorter service oil intervals.
On my 2005 KTM LC4 Adventure (single, 625ccm, 1.9-2 liters of 10W50/10W60 Motorex Power Synt or Cross Synt oil along with TWO oil filters) the service schedule is for changes every max. 5000km, and if the motorcycle is used intensively (high temperatures, fast riding or high dust, etc.) then the change must be done after 2500km, maximum 3000km.
Frequent oil changes greatly increase the life of the engine. Particularly sensitive to oil quality is the cylinder head (camshaft, guides and valve stems, etc.).
In addition, it is worth mentioning that in a large-capacity single-cylinder engine (over 500ccm) there is a very large piston, which, due to its diameter, is characterized by large blowouts between the cylinder wall and the piston, which occur until the engine reaches the right operating temperature. These blowouts cause the fuel mixture to enter the oil, which is why the oil in single-cylinder engines loses its lubricating properties more quickly than in multi-cylinder engines with small piston diameters. That's why it's all the more reason to change the oil in such engines frequently. The absolute maximum is 6000km between oil changes.
Mesh filter cleaning can be used once every 25-30 thousand kilometers, especially the one difficult to access under the clutch cover.
Glad to see I’m not the only one to get oil everywhere😂 No matter how hard I try. Considering buying the AJP so been interesting to see this thanks👍
Thank you for the video, Rogier! About to do the 1000km service tomorrow on my 2021 and the lessons in this clip are invaluable.
Great to hear man! I hope you managed the 1000k service without any problems.
Great to see where things are on the PR7. Be aware that it is MUCH better to change the oil when the engine is WARM.
Another very helpful vid, thanks, doing the procedure right now ;)
Good video ... you are good at this - keep the video's coming. Thank you.
Thanks, I needed that bit of motivation.
Thank you for this video. Very informative and well produced. I am very interested in this bike! Anything you can show is highly anticipated! There are so few on the road and so few in the USA. They seem to be a great deal for the types of multi-day dirt-road tours we have here (MABDR, TAT). I am very interested in reliability, parts availability, fit & finish. I don't want to be 2-3000km away from home and have a breakdown that I can't easily fix. Thanks, again!
More videos coming soon. Here in Europe parts supply seems well organized. The engine by SWM is basically the old Husqvarna TE630 lump with a different fuel injection system. Engine parts are easy to get.
I broke the rear suspension linkage and smashed the exhaust pipe. These are AJP parts. The dealership here in The Netherlands got these parts from Portugal within a few days. The factory has all these parts readily available and they ship fast.
Reliability has been good except for the awful rear brake setup which I resolved with a different disk and pads. The 2020 model has a bunch of improvements such as Brembo brakes.
Another good bike in the same playing field is the Honda CRF450L. Although you'd have to spend some money on a larger fuel tank and other goodies which the AJP comes with standard.
The AJP is as simple as it gets in these modern days. Few electronics. You can for instance start the bike while on the side stand and in gear. I like this simplicity.
@@joacerbis One thing to keep in mind about CRF450L is that it has 1000km oil change intervals vs 5000km in AJP PR7. Although I have to say that oil change on crf450l looks a lot easier to perform.
Hello from FRANCE You're in luck ! because you have not paid much attention to the shaft of the oil pump because you have to be very careful of it when you disassemble the clutch housing, and especially when you reassemble the housing you have to check the position of the shaft compared to the drive of the crankshaft on these engines !!!
Hello, thank you for your video. I go you the AJP PR7 of 2021 and I have 2 important questions.
1) Is it good to clean the metal oil filters with brake cleaner? Won't there be any residues? Would it be convenient to clean with gasoline after the brake cleaner to avoid any brake cleaner particles inside the engine?
2) The oil filter that is more hidden, is it possible to remove it without removing the pipe or manifolds and without breaking it?
THANKS
I doubt that it will make a difference using brake cleaner or gasoline. Use what you have. Yes, you can remove the oil filter without removing the manifolds. Remove the muffler and undo the bolt that holds it in place along with the brake pedal. Then you can press down on the pipe just enough to have space to remove the filter without bending. This way you don't have to undo the pipe at the cylinder head and saves you a bunch of hassle.
Your oil filter was incorrectly installed at your last service, and you reinstalled it incorrectly on thos service...The hole in the filter is supposed to face the other way...4 years later, os this bike still running?
Thanks for watching. You cannot physically place the oil filter in the wrong way. It wouldn't fit. I sold the bike a few years back. It was in great condition then and I'm confident the new owner took good care of it.
How often does the metal screen need cleaned?
Hi Sarah. Clean it with the first oil change at 1000km and then every other oil change. So: 1000, 10.000, 20.000, 30.000km, etc..
Good video! Is it me or is it completely ridiculous to have to remove the side cover and brake pedal for every oil change? Who thought this was a good idea?? There should be a small access cover over that filter..
Does the bike manual said to remove and clean that filter? Is that required for maintenance?
Hi Titus, the manual does not specify much beyond how to change a light bulb. I recommend looking at the bottom right mesh filter during first inspection after engine break-in, as this is when most metal particles will come out, and then every 10k. No need to check too often.
hi, one question...which motorbike stander do you use in this video? Can you recomend it?
Hi Jose, it's a generic paddockstand. No brand. Sells for around 30Euro. Got it from my local motorbike shop. In my opinion a must have for any motorbike with a chain. And when doing the oil, it's more practical then the one you put underneath the engine.
You need heat on the exhaust (blow lamp) and it will slip right out.
How often do you need to clean the 'hidden' strainer? Seems like a bad design.
I would clean the hidden strainer with the first oil change and then every other oil change. 10k, 20k etc. I have to agree with you that the design is not the most user friendly.
@@joacerbis Not the most user friendly? This is the worst design I ever seen on motorcycle.
@@markodjurovic4343 KTM ones on the bigger bikes are similar and plastic.
@@fluffycat087 Yes, also as older husabergs, but you can pull it out without exaust removal.
@@markodjurovic4343 you don't need to remove the exhaust pipe... I don't know why Rogier had this in mind but I did remove the clutch cover and the strainer with the pipe in place and ith care, I didn't brake the strainer...
What oil type is OEM recommended?
Nice video.
Cheers
The manual recommends to use 10w50. That means 50 weight when warm and 10 when cold. My bike does not use any oil, which is surprising for a big single.
@@joacerbis- Thank you for information.
Not so surprising this engine is a veteran from where the "ruff edges" have been solved over a long time. By all means a good bet.
Cheers
As per comment below- get the stronger filter from SWM - mine was broken in half ( lucky not broken up in engine ) I know of at least 6 SWM Superdual that needed engine rebuilds because of this ) I run the SWM Australia fb page and did inform the AJP PR7 Australia fb page
Thanks for the advice!
Hi. Could you post the part number of the stronger screen for all us lazy ppl?
Ivan Denysov MOO303544
You might want to check about that screen filter as I have upgraded mine to a better one, the mesh is stronger, maybe ask AJP or SWM?
Thanks. I didn't know a stronger one existed.
@@joacerbis it was a recall, they should have sent you the new one. They did for me.
@@BixenteDelBosque Is that the one that was notoriously breaking on the SWM superduals?
@@dominiquebertin921 probably?
invest in a torque wrench pls
Bought my first one who I was 18 yes old. Cost me a fortune back in the days. Still have it. I have a second one as well. I fancy one with a digital gauge though.