Hi, When I did the alignment on my Colchester student, one of the first things I discovered was that the spindle taper had a ding in it. I blued up the bush, put a large MT drill into the bush as a handle, and rubbed it into the spindle. This revealed quite a lot of bumping inside the spindle, which was carefully removed with a crescent bearing scraper which was very effective, and I soon got to a solid blue all round. This made a lot of difference! I then did the same to the inside or the spindle bush, then refitted the whole lot to the lathe, refitted the test bar, and what a difference! I have three spindle bushes for my lathe, but I now know that I only have one good one! The others need work!!I bought a MT reamer for my TS, but I found that bluing it up afterwards showed that there was still highs and lows, and it took several goes with the reamer before it blued up near perfect. Have you checked for twist in the bed with an engineers level? That can also make quite a difference, and is not difficult to do. Setting up drag, or preload on the spindle bearings can be done with a spring balance but you need to know if the manufacturers have set this type of parameter for the machine, and some don't! Love your channel, and have subscribed! I am not far away either! Phil (You can see my alignment efforts here) th-cam.com/users/philhermeticvideos
Hi Phil, this info is very useful thanks it deepens my understanding quite a bit. I've started to look on ebay for an engineers level to do the bed twist check. I like your channel. In you episode "I get sidetracked again" do I see a Rapidor and an Alba shaper? I've got a Rapidor and an Elliott 10M. All your equipment looks smart.
@@HaxbyShed Alba and Rapidor, you certainly do see, and also a Colchester student, and the venerable Covmac lathe. Of course the only thing better than two lathes is three, so I went and bought a Holbrook B9 on Friday. I think the Harrisons were a shade better than the Colchesters, but there you go, I also have a Harrison H mill with a vertical head attachment, out of a school, and hardly used. It is easy to become obsessive about accuracy on lathes, I did mine because I had just stripped and repainted it, along with a thorough mechanical sorting, and I was noticing tailstock misalignment before I started the refurb. It is still not dialed in perfectly, but there are a lot of people who say you should only embark on accuracy checks if you can't make the parts you need sufficiently accurately for your needs. My Colchester is often far more accurate than I am! Were times different re covid and midwinter I would pop over with my level and spend half a day tinkering with you, maybe in happier times?
What an interesting video, you have a marvellous video-side manner. I will go and watch the previous videos and have subscribed. Relieved to discover I am not the only person with an ‘imperial brain’. Many thanks.
lol, I try to be modern and metric but it does not come naturally. I still find metric micrometres much harder to read than imperial. And somehow I like the mental complexity of the all the fractions. Cheers
The barreling of the shaft is usually due to the deflection of the shaft being greater at midpoint. If theres any play at all between centres the direction of cutting tool travel will tend to push the workpiece into the centre its travelling towards causing smaller diameter that end and larger at the looser centre end. These driveshafts are also fairly tough material and you might show more repeatable results with something softer.
Thank you. I agree with all your points. I don't have a lot of metal stock and the driveshaft was handy. It's added to my experience and I'd probably do it a bit differently now on a live job. Cheers
Quite an investigation, could you try the DTI mounted vertically measuring the turned test bar at 12 o'clock, ie, the top. Also fit your Mt 3 test bar in the tailstock, and clock it's parallel to the ways. On the whole, the lathe is quite good, 0.03 mm is very good for a standard lathe in my opinion. Great vlog, very well though out. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, a good idea to clock on top with the bar as a reference. In Vid HS40 I did some clocking with the bar in the tailstock but I should repeat it now I've cleaned up the taper. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed yes, the tailstock taper didn't look in the best of shape, though difficult to film obviously. Possibly fit the MT 3 reamer in the chuck, carefully indicate in, then carefully offer the tailstock up to it. But again the figures you have suggest a good lathe, but you may still have the issue of tailstock mounted drilling and reaming being axially out.
@@bostedtap8399 I'd agree with that and doing as you suggest by reaming the tailstock from the chuck should reduce if not eliminate axial alignment problems side to side but of course won't do anything about VisiCalc drop caused by bed wear.
@@HaxbyShed Just a thought, using a standard DTI with a ball point stylus, may Introduce errors on axial measure/trammel on a cylindrical bar, a flat bottom stylus would be more consistent. Nice little job to make one. Hope this helps.
How is the lathe bolted down? Could you be fighting thermal expansion and deflection? Also could be thermal growth in the spindle changing bearing preload? Not a joke, “down to the weather and how the lathe is warming up. All things considered equal these are things that are changing. Nice job. Good example of properly thinking through a problem.
Chris thank you for the compliment. The lathe is freestanding with a jacking screw at each corner. It is not hard bolted to the floor. I've started to look on ebay for a machinists level and then I will do a bed twist check. I think there are growing indications that I need to check and eliminate that possibility. Cheers.
your tailstock is out of line .. you can adjust it with the 2 Allen bolts.. but to get it right you'll need a rolled bar or 2 (of the same )tailstock centres . there's loads of videos online that show you how to adjust ..doesn't take long to get it spot on.. good luck
Hi Steve, I'm probably chasing an accuracy that the old girl can't do after 50 years. Tailstock could be a shade out of line and I will look at the videos as you suggest. It's all background brain work for me when it's too clod for a workshop day. Cheers
I actually ordered a mt3 reamer for my own 140 too, your headstock center, was this a soft center? I thought and now I may be well wrong here but I thought you were to cut a new soft center point with the lathe itself to ensure its concentric, my own 140 is probably no better but works just fine, try hss and some cold rolled bar as carbide is a bit high tool pressure
Hi, thanks. I'd not thought about machining the headstock centre. You have set me thinking now about HSS, and I see the reason. I may just live with it for now as the setup is probably accurate enough for everything I do. Cheers.
Hi Test bar not rotating true Test all centres in head stock normally we have a soft 1 to turn true. Tail stock alignment test full out and in with your turning set up if pointing to wall it will show up only move tail stock. This will put this 1 to bed as to say. If not same is top on it base correct. Also the lock can play havoc with set up Steve
Hi, thanks. I think I've absorbed all you say. Certainly agree the tailstock quill lock can be a big swing factor. I'd not thought about machining the headstock centre. Cheers.
A follower rest (travelling steady) would have helped with the “barrel” shape. Very interesting test. Do you think your low shop temperature would have any effect on your results? Cheers.
Hi Carl, yes a travelling steady would have helped I think. And it's only recently I have realised how much dimensions are sensitive to temperature ... so yes to that too. Cheers
Hi, great video. I was thinking the deviation could be eliminated if you used a travelling steady. As the greatest error appeared to be at the mid point in the shaft, it is the part which had the least support and would have been pushed away from the tool as it cut. This might explain the barrelling you saw. Keep up the great work. Osu!
Hi m0xya, I agree and several people have suggested a sharp HSS tool might have been better than a carbide (less tool pressure). Your Colchester round head looks shiny. I'm still doing karate every week but my old joints are creaking. Osu!
As well as the tests that you have done, one test that I want to do on my own 140 when I get it set up in it's new position is to run the DTI along the top of the bar as well as the side. Having watched all the work you have done I think that I'll use a test bar and mount the DTI base in three different places, 1) where you had it on the tool post, 2) on the rear of the saddle ( over the flat way ) and 3) on the front of the saddle somewhere near the keeper clamp bolt. I'm not too sure what it will prove but it should show how the wear in the bed is reflected in the changing tool position assuming that I manage to eliminate any lift between the rear of the saddle and the flat way. Perhaps all this extra data will help BUT it does worry me that I'll have so much data that I'll be able to back up pretty well any hypothesis ............ I'll get me coat!
Ah yes I see your point. I did not think about using the top edge of a test bar between centres as a reference for local vertical bed wear. Taking differences should give you quite a lot of information - as you say understanding / separating the different causes and effects may be the tricky bit. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed One of my next jobs is to repaint my 140. It came out of David Browns training school at Huddersfield and is a ghastly pale green. Did you spray or brush the paint you used and what preparation did you do? If this is covered in another video I'd be very grateful for signpost to it. My grateful thanks - Chris
Hi Chris, I stripped the lathe down and washed it all off with degreaser - took me ages. Then I painted with grey screwfix oil resistant floor paint with a brush. It takes 7 days to cure. You can see some of this in my video HS11 (in the middle from about from about 7min:30sec). Hope that helps. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed Thanks Fella - I'll give that a go. Your 140 looks very tidy. I've a Harrison vertical mill to refurbish as well so it looks as though a 5L tin might be justified.
Hello Mr. exciusme for my beat english langwith. In the past i have the same indikations on my lathe. My result is, that the metrial by work make a bow so ju have the differenz in the middel of this
As for the barrelling, that seems to be consistent through your four turnings and I am surprised it has not increased because I am fairly sure that it is caused by the workpiece flexing away from the path of the tool and of course will be at its most flexed point at the centre point between the centres and NOT the centre point of the turned portion. And as you make the work thinner, it will of course flex more due to losing its rigidity, and the barrelling will get ever greater.Have a look at your numbers at the appropriate point on the turned portion and draw your own conclusions.
Hi, thanks that helps draw the barrelling issue into focus in my mind. I think barrelling was masking the underlying mechanisms which were causing me confusion. I hope shortly I will upload an update video covering some of these points at a general level.
Good day I’m no expert but I would try to eliminate some variables, true in the tail shaft (I use the dumb bell shaped type, the bar with a donut on each end) touch up the head stock dead center @ 60* . And as someone else said get the temp stable for the test period. I personally would disregard the center readings of the shaft your using due to high tool pressure pushing the bar away.if your really need those numbers use a follow rest. Oh also check the center drilled hole in the shaft there may be rust or paint giving you incorrect results. But you probably already know all this and I missed you say
Hi, several things for me to think about in your comments. I'd not thought about machining the headstock centre. And I agree carbide is not the best tool for fine work. There was dirt in the centre hole giving a bit of error to begin with but that 0.4mm wobble was 'as built'. This was one of a pair of 'new' drive shafts that came off my son's car because they were giving a lot of vibration but the CVs seemed to be fine. Another dodgy ebay purchase and he waited too long and too much hassle to send back :-)
Wow Terry thank you very much! Have you been snooping on my workshop(?), because in the vid coming out this week I mention I've only ever had 2 Superthanks on 1.2m views on 250 vids over 4 years and now you have just upended that but it's too late to amend the vid coming out. You'll just have to smile to yourself knowing the truth. All the best. Paul
@@HaxbyShed No I have not been snooping. Your time and knowledge is valuable to me. I do not do Paetron anymore because of a problem I had wiith them several years ago. But I do from time to time like to pay back what is so freely given to us on here. I wish some of my other favorite channels would include Super Thanks buttons so I could thank them with some $$$ . I have even suggested they add it to their post but so far none of them have followed my advice. . Again, a sincere thanks for your time and efforts. Terry from Texas
Hi Alan, I now know there is some wear on the bed ways at the chuck end so the end result is a combination of small errors acting sometimes with and sometimes against each other. Eventually operators get to know their machines and how to get the best out of them. Cheers
Wrong tool for turning towards the tailstock... negative left. You could try using a HSS TOOL With a quarter inch ground flat. It's an old lathe and that is a good result. I understand your frustration 😣
Hi, it's not clear from my video but I did swap in a RH tool for my attempt on towards tailstock turning. But it was only a half hearted attempt and subject to operator error (and a bit of a distraction to my main theme). I will make a proper attempt at towards tailstock turning in a future vid when I can set the work up properly with a live centre and rigidity. I understand your point that HSS may be better. I've seen your vid on turning towards the tailstock on the DSG and to be honest I've got that image in my mind. I've learnt a lot from your channel - decades of experience on big work come across in just a few Yorkshire sentences. With so many other channels it's just the same stuff recycled. Cheers
It makes me wonder how mine will do when I get it setup I'm still looking for a shop I might be building one I have no idea at this point I cood be out of luck 😒
I took a chance on this lathe - it was an ebay purchase. Overall I'm very pleased with it. If you see my video HS13, my shop was literally a Pig Sty and then a store room before I finally decided to put it to proper use. I was lucky to be able to buy it from a neighbour after some years of nagging him.
Do you know someone who has a MAHR gauge for a repeatometer? Measures in microns (millionths of an inch). This would help. If not contact Keith Rucker at Vintage Machine on you tube. He has equipment to measure & has done his lathes & planer for straightness & scraping. He's a good guy & may be able to walk you through the measurements. Depth of cut, kind of steel, hardness of bar, carbide/high speed cutter, speed of rotation, temperature of material, temp of shop all have an effect. I have a FELL level (measures x & y at the same time). One increment = .0005 in 12 inches deviation. Check your bed for level: not so much level but twist of the bed. The Fell can help with this. Some machine shop near you should have one & maybe bribe the owner to stop by & see what he can find. Took me 6 months to level, straighten, adjust gibs, check centers & adjust tailstock on my ACER 14 x 42 gear head lathe (vintage 1999 - I bought it new). Now I can turn within 5 ten thousandths of an inch. Time between adjustments was about 2 weeks to let the cast iron settle out. Now I check it every 2 months & tickle it if need be. The FELL will change on the bed if you change your position on the floor beside the lathe (4 1/2 inch concrete floor). The whole world is constantly moving, just depends at what time you stop it to measure. Good luck & I enjoy your show & your approach to problems.
Hi Robert, thanks for all the information. It will think and absorb it over the coming days. Interesting point that the whole world is constantly moving yes I guess so when you think everything is made of atoms interacting, and settling with gravity of course. We don't notice these things unless we look carefully, over time. Things aren't what they seem. Cheers
What a great comment sir! Love " the whole world is constantly moving, just depends on what time you stop it to measure" REAL food for thought. And I agree I'm sure Keith Rucker would help him out with suggestions if asked and maybe had seen Haxby's shed videos on measuring the wear.
متشکرم. 'cc' را روشن کنید و سپس به 'تنظیمات' بروید و زیرنویس فارسی را انتخاب کنید؟ سپس زیرنویس های ترجمه خودکار به زبان فارسی از پایین صفحه خود به صورت خودکار دریافت خواهید کرد. (امیدوارم بتوانید این مقاله را بخوانید ، من از ترجمه گوگل استفاده کردم.)
سلام ، لطفاً تنظیمات -> ترجمه خودکار -> فارسی را امتحان کنید. من می توانم آن را بر روی رایانه شخصی ام انجام دهم. لطفاً برای چند ثانیه فیلم ضبط شده با زیرنویس فارسی روی این لینک کلیک کنید. th-cam.com/video/2YtetMj-Zv0/w-d-xo.html
If you want to save a little tool wear, you could shrink aluminium collars in three places to your driveshaft and turn them down as you make adjustments.
Hi, it has a very heavy rigid base cabinet set up in the factory. But if in the past somebody bolted that hard down to the floor it could have introduced a twist. I did some basic checks and I think it's ok but I do not have a precision level (expensive). Cheers
@@HaxbyShed I got my 12" Rabone Chesterman precision machinists level for £40 off of eBay last year. They do come up reasonably often, some idiots want an arm leg and one testicle for them but there you go they are out there. If you want to set a lathe up really accurately you do have to level the machine as the very first thing you do. After all how do you know how good your floor is? I bet it's not even millimetre level let alone hundredths
Mavio, now I understand. Cone bearings would be better and yes it is best to finish machining when all is assembled so everything is guaranteed concentric or perpendicular at 90 degrees to the axis. With this in mind I did a run-out test in a video and it was good enough I think.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[1/2] เปิดแคมป์หลอนต้อนรับ 2 ตัวพ่อแห่งวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2uPuHYHgwiI/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi, When I did the alignment on my Colchester student, one of the first things I discovered was that the spindle taper had a ding in it. I blued up the bush, put a large MT drill into the bush as a handle, and rubbed it into the spindle. This revealed quite a lot of bumping inside the spindle, which was carefully removed with a crescent bearing scraper which was very effective, and I soon got to a solid blue all round. This made a lot of difference! I then did the same to the inside or the spindle bush, then refitted the whole lot to the lathe, refitted the test bar, and what a difference! I have three spindle bushes for my lathe, but I now know that I only have one good one! The others need work!!I bought a MT reamer for my TS, but I found that bluing it up afterwards showed that there was still highs and lows, and it took several goes with the reamer before it blued up near perfect. Have you checked for twist in the bed with an engineers level? That can also make quite a difference, and is not difficult to do. Setting up drag, or preload on the spindle bearings can be done with a spring balance but you need to know if the manufacturers have set this type of parameter for the machine, and some don't! Love your channel, and have subscribed! I am not far away either!
Phil (You can see my alignment efforts here) th-cam.com/users/philhermeticvideos
Hi Phil, this info is very useful thanks it deepens my understanding quite a bit. I've started to look on ebay for an engineers level to do the bed twist check. I like your channel. In you episode "I get sidetracked again" do I see a Rapidor and an Alba shaper? I've got a Rapidor and an Elliott 10M. All your equipment looks smart.
@@HaxbyShed Alba and Rapidor, you certainly do see, and also a Colchester student, and the venerable Covmac lathe. Of course the only thing better than two lathes is three, so I went and bought a Holbrook B9 on Friday. I think the Harrisons were a shade better than the Colchesters, but there you go, I also have a Harrison H mill with a vertical head attachment, out of a school, and hardly used.
It is easy to become obsessive about accuracy on lathes, I did mine because I had just stripped and repainted it, along with a thorough mechanical sorting, and I was noticing tailstock misalignment before I started the refurb. It is still not dialed in perfectly, but there are a lot of people who say you should only embark on accuracy checks if you can't make the parts you need sufficiently accurately for your needs. My Colchester is often far more accurate than I am! Were times different re covid and midwinter I would pop over with my level and spend half a day tinkering with you, maybe in happier times?
What an interesting video, you have a marvellous video-side manner. I will go and watch the previous videos and have subscribed. Relieved to discover I am not the only person with an ‘imperial brain’. Many thanks.
lol, I try to be modern and metric but it does not come naturally. I still find metric micrometres much harder to read than imperial. And somehow I like the mental complexity of the all the fractions. Cheers
The barreling of the shaft is usually due to the deflection of the shaft being greater at midpoint. If theres any play at all between centres the direction of cutting tool travel will tend to push the workpiece into the centre its travelling towards causing smaller diameter that end and larger at the looser centre end.
These driveshafts are also fairly tough material and you might show more repeatable results with something softer.
Thank you. I agree with all your points. I don't have a lot of metal stock and the driveshaft was handy. It's added to my experience and I'd probably do it a bit differently now on a live job. Cheers
Agreed, tool pressure may be flexing the work away from the cut thus leading to a greater diameter.
Interesting video, especialy the contradictions, when all is said and done I'd be happy with the result. Enjoyed. Cheers.
I think we the lathe setup settled down and me settled down I could get predictable / improving results from here on. Cheers.
Quite an investigation, could you try the DTI mounted vertically measuring the turned test bar at 12 o'clock, ie, the top.
Also fit your Mt 3 test bar in the tailstock, and clock it's parallel to the ways.
On the whole, the lathe is quite good, 0.03 mm is very good for a standard lathe in my opinion.
Great vlog, very well though out.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi, a good idea to clock on top with the bar as a reference. In Vid HS40 I did some clocking with the bar in the tailstock but I should repeat it now I've cleaned up the taper. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed yes, the tailstock taper didn't look in the best of shape, though difficult to film obviously. Possibly fit the MT 3 reamer in the chuck, carefully indicate in, then carefully offer the tailstock up to it.
But again the figures you have suggest a good lathe, but you may still have the issue of tailstock mounted drilling and reaming being axially out.
@@bostedtap8399 I'd agree with that and doing as you suggest by reaming the tailstock from the chuck should reduce if not eliminate axial alignment problems side to side but of course won't do anything about VisiCalc drop caused by bed wear.
@@HaxbyShed Just a thought, using a standard DTI with a ball point stylus, may Introduce errors on axial measure/trammel on a cylindrical bar, a flat bottom stylus would be more consistent. Nice little job to make one.
Hope this helps.
Thank you.
How is the lathe bolted down? Could you be fighting thermal expansion and deflection? Also could be thermal growth in the spindle changing bearing preload? Not a joke, “down to the weather and how the lathe is warming up. All things considered equal these are things that are changing. Nice job. Good example of properly thinking through a problem.
Chris thank you for the compliment. The lathe is freestanding with a jacking screw at each corner. It is not hard bolted to the floor. I've started to look on ebay for a machinists level and then I will do a bed twist check. I think there are growing indications that I need to check and eliminate that possibility. Cheers.
your tailstock is out of line .. you can adjust it with the 2 Allen bolts.. but to get it right you'll need a rolled bar or 2 (of the same )tailstock centres . there's loads of videos online that show you how to adjust ..doesn't take long to get it spot on.. good luck
Steve, he covered the tail stock alignment at he start of the video. I would agree with him that it’s probably bed wear.
Hi Steve, I'm probably chasing an accuracy that the old girl can't do after 50 years. Tailstock could be a shade out of line and I will look at the videos as you suggest. It's all background brain work for me when it's too clod for a workshop day. Cheers
I actually ordered a mt3 reamer for my own 140 too, your headstock center, was this a soft center? I thought and now I may be well wrong here but I thought you were to cut a new soft center point with the lathe itself to ensure its concentric, my own 140 is probably no better but works just fine, try hss and some cold rolled bar as carbide is a bit high tool pressure
Hi, thanks. I'd not thought about machining the headstock centre. You have set me thinking now about HSS, and I see the reason. I may just live with it for now as the setup is probably accurate enough for everything I do. Cheers.
Hi Test bar not rotating true Test all centres in head stock normally we have a soft 1 to turn true.
Tail stock alignment test full out and in with your turning set up if pointing to wall it will show up only move tail stock. This will put this 1 to bed as to say. If not same is top on it base correct. Also the lock can play havoc with set up
Steve
Hi, thanks. I think I've absorbed all you say. Certainly agree the tailstock quill lock can be a big swing factor. I'd not thought about machining the headstock centre. Cheers.
A follower rest (travelling steady) would have helped with the “barrel” shape. Very interesting test. Do you think your low shop temperature would have any effect on your results? Cheers.
Hi Carl, yes a travelling steady would have helped I think. And it's only recently I have realised how much dimensions are sensitive to temperature ... so yes to that too. Cheers
Hi, great video. I was thinking the deviation could be eliminated if you used a travelling steady. As the greatest error appeared to be at the mid point in the shaft, it is the part which had the least support and would have been pushed away from the tool as it cut. This might explain the barrelling you saw. Keep up the great work. Osu!
Hi m0xya, I agree and several people have suggested a sharp HSS tool might have been better than a carbide (less tool pressure). Your Colchester round head looks shiny. I'm still doing karate every week but my old joints are creaking. Osu!
As well as the tests that you have done, one test that I want to do on my own 140 when I get it set up in it's new position is to run the DTI along the top of the bar as well as the side. Having watched all the work you have done I think that I'll use a test bar and mount the DTI base in three different places, 1) where you had it on the tool post, 2) on the rear of the saddle ( over the flat way ) and 3) on the front of the saddle somewhere near the keeper clamp bolt.
I'm not too sure what it will prove but it should show how the wear in the bed is reflected in the changing tool position assuming that I manage to eliminate any lift between the rear of the saddle and the flat way. Perhaps all this extra data will help BUT it does worry me that I'll have so much data that I'll be able to back up pretty well any hypothesis ............ I'll get me coat!
Ah yes I see your point. I did not think about using the top edge of a test bar between centres as a reference for local vertical bed wear. Taking differences should give you quite a lot of information - as you say understanding / separating the different causes and effects may be the tricky bit. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed One of my next jobs is to repaint my 140. It came out of David Browns training school at Huddersfield and is a ghastly pale green. Did you spray or brush the paint you used and what preparation did you do? If this is covered in another video I'd be very grateful for signpost to it. My grateful thanks - Chris
Hi Chris, I stripped the lathe down and washed it all off with degreaser - took me ages. Then I painted with grey screwfix oil resistant floor paint with a brush. It takes 7 days to cure. You can see some of this in my video HS11 (in the middle from about from about 7min:30sec). Hope that helps. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed Thanks Fella - I'll give that a go. Your 140 looks very tidy. I've a Harrison vertical mill to refurbish as well so it looks as though a 5L tin might be justified.
Hello Mr.
exciusme for my beat english langwith.
In the past i have the same indikations on my lathe.
My result is, that the metrial by work make a bow so ju have the differenz in the middel of this
Hello Siggi, I understand perfectly. I think you are right. Thank you.
As for the barrelling, that seems to be consistent through your four turnings and I am surprised it has not increased because I am fairly sure that it is caused by the workpiece flexing away from the path of the tool and of course will be at its most flexed point at the centre point between the centres and NOT the centre point of the turned portion. And as you make the work thinner, it will of course flex more due to losing its rigidity, and the barrelling will get ever greater.Have a look at your numbers at the appropriate point on the turned portion and draw your own conclusions.
Hi, thanks that helps draw the barrelling issue into focus in my mind. I think barrelling was masking the underlying mechanisms which were causing me confusion. I hope shortly I will upload an update video covering some of these points at a general level.
Good day I’m no expert but I would try to eliminate some variables, true in the tail shaft (I use the dumb bell shaped type, the bar with a donut on each end) touch up the head stock dead center @ 60* . And as someone else said get the temp stable for the test period. I personally would disregard the center readings of the shaft your using due to high tool pressure pushing the bar away.if your really need those numbers use a follow rest. Oh also check the center drilled hole in the shaft there may be rust or paint giving you incorrect results. But you probably already know all this and I missed you say
Hi, several things for me to think about in your comments. I'd not thought about machining the headstock centre. And I agree carbide is not the best tool for fine work. There was dirt in the centre hole giving a bit of error to begin with but that 0.4mm wobble was 'as built'. This was one of a pair of 'new' drive shafts that came off my son's car because they were giving a lot of vibration but the CVs seemed to be fine. Another dodgy ebay purchase and he waited too long and too much hassle to send back :-)
Thanks!
Wow Terry thank you very much! Have you been snooping on my workshop(?), because in the vid coming out this week I mention I've only ever had 2 Superthanks on 1.2m views on 250 vids over 4 years and now you have just upended that but it's too late to amend the vid coming out. You'll just have to smile to yourself knowing the truth. All the best. Paul
@@HaxbyShed No I have not been snooping. Your time and knowledge is valuable to me. I do not do Paetron anymore because of a problem I had wiith them several years ago. But I do from time to time like to pay back what is so freely given to us on here. I wish some of my other favorite channels would include Super Thanks buttons so I could thank them with some $$$ . I have even suggested they add it to their post but so far none of them have followed my advice. . Again, a sincere thanks for your time and efforts.
Terry from Texas
???. Yep, a head scratcher. Great stuff!!
Hi Alan, I now know there is some wear on the bed ways at the chuck end so the end result is a combination of small errors acting sometimes with and sometimes against each other. Eventually operators get to know their machines and how to get the best out of them. Cheers
Wrong tool for turning towards the tailstock... negative left. You could try using a HSS TOOL
With a quarter inch ground flat. It's an old lathe and that is a good result. I understand your frustration 😣
Hi, it's not clear from my video but I did swap in a RH tool for my attempt on towards tailstock turning. But it was only a half hearted attempt and subject to operator error (and a bit of a distraction to my main theme). I will make a proper attempt at towards tailstock turning in a future vid when I can set the work up properly with a live centre and rigidity. I understand your point that HSS may be better. I've seen your vid on turning towards the tailstock on the DSG and to be honest I've got that image in my mind. I've learnt a lot from your channel - decades of experience on big work come across in just a few Yorkshire sentences. With so many other channels it's just the same stuff recycled. Cheers
It makes me wonder how mine will do when I get it setup I'm still looking for a shop I might be building one I have no idea at this point I cood be out of luck 😒
I took a chance on this lathe - it was an ebay purchase. Overall I'm very pleased with it. If you see my video HS13, my shop was literally a Pig Sty and then a store room before I finally decided to put it to proper use. I was lucky to be able to buy it from a neighbour after some years of nagging him.
Do you know someone who has a MAHR gauge for a repeatometer? Measures in microns (millionths of an inch). This would help. If not contact Keith Rucker at Vintage Machine on you tube. He has equipment to measure & has done his lathes & planer for straightness & scraping. He's a good guy & may be able to walk you through the measurements. Depth of cut, kind of steel, hardness of bar, carbide/high speed cutter, speed of rotation, temperature of material, temp of shop all have an effect. I have a FELL level (measures x & y at the same time). One increment = .0005 in 12 inches deviation. Check your bed for level: not so much level but twist of the bed. The Fell can help with this. Some machine shop near you should have one & maybe bribe the owner to stop by & see what he can find. Took me 6 months to level, straighten, adjust gibs, check centers & adjust tailstock on my ACER 14 x 42 gear head lathe (vintage 1999 - I bought it new). Now I can turn within 5 ten thousandths of an inch. Time between adjustments was about 2 weeks to let the cast iron settle out. Now I check it every 2 months & tickle it if need be. The FELL will change on the bed if you change your position on the floor beside the lathe (4 1/2 inch concrete floor). The whole world is constantly moving, just depends at what time you stop it to measure. Good luck & I enjoy your show & your approach to problems.
Hi Robert, thanks for all the information. It will think and absorb it over the coming days. Interesting point that the whole world is constantly moving yes I guess so when you think everything is made of atoms interacting, and settling with gravity of course. We don't notice these things unless we look carefully, over time. Things aren't what they seem. Cheers
What a great comment sir! Love " the whole world is constantly moving, just depends on what time you stop it to measure" REAL food for thought. And I agree I'm sure Keith Rucker would help him out with suggestions if asked and maybe had seen Haxby's shed videos on measuring the wear.
خیلی خیلی عالی بود متشکرم
فقط صحبتهایتان متوجه نشدم
متشکرم. 'cc' را روشن کنید و سپس به 'تنظیمات' بروید و زیرنویس فارسی را انتخاب کنید؟ سپس زیرنویس های ترجمه خودکار به زبان فارسی از پایین صفحه خود به صورت خودکار دریافت خواهید کرد. (امیدوارم بتوانید این مقاله را بخوانید ، من از ترجمه گوگل استفاده کردم.)
@@HaxbyShed سلام ccراروشن کردم وداخل تنظیمات رفتم ولی متاسفانه زیرنویس فارسی نیامد🙏🙏🙏
سلام ، لطفاً تنظیمات -> ترجمه خودکار -> فارسی را امتحان کنید. من می توانم آن را بر روی رایانه شخصی ام انجام دهم. لطفاً برای چند ثانیه فیلم ضبط شده با زیرنویس فارسی روی این لینک کلیک کنید. th-cam.com/video/2YtetMj-Zv0/w-d-xo.html
If you want to save a little tool wear, you could shrink aluminium collars in three places to your driveshaft and turn them down as you make adjustments.
Thanks Jim.
Make sure the machine is level.
Hi, it has a very heavy rigid base cabinet set up in the factory. But if in the past somebody bolted that hard down to the floor it could have introduced a twist. I did some basic checks and I think it's ok but I do not have a precision level (expensive). Cheers
@@HaxbyShed I got my 12" Rabone Chesterman precision machinists level for £40 off of eBay last year. They do come up reasonably often, some idiots want an arm leg and one testicle for them but there you go they are out there. If you want to set a lathe up really accurately you do have to level the machine as the very first thing you do. After all how do you know how good your floor is? I bet it's not even millimetre level let alone hundredths
wrong bearing housing machining procedure.
First fix the flange on the spindle then finish the bearing housing on the self-centering spindle .....
Hi Mavio, sorry I did not understand your comment. The character is chick or chicken?
@@HaxbyShed built a wrong thing, no cone bearing and wrong building procedure .... I'm an old rooster ....
@@HaxbyShed I'm sorry I was referring to this video "HS43 Making a tailstock 4 jaw fitting for my Harrison 140 lathe"
Mavio, now I understand. Cone bearings would be better and yes it is best to finish machining when all is assembled so everything is guaranteed concentric or perpendicular at 90 degrees to the axis. With this in mind I did a run-out test in a video and it was good enough I think.