Thank you for uploading this video. Will be changing my rear wheel hub on my Oldsmobile Silhouette soon. Very good information, especially the part about the vibration when traveling over 70 mph help me narrow down the source of the vibration.
Thanks Vacationtime247! Great video for those of us with FWD. Ordered the same hub assemblies as shown in the video (Raybestos 712237) from Amazon for $71.70 (best price at the current time) - hub assemblies appear very well made. 2003 Aztek with 120K miles.
Thank you Sr for the information l have a 2002 Buick rendezvous l need to replace the wheel bearing on rear this video make my day!!! Save me $150 dlls for bearing!!! You awesome 👍
....did you get your rear wheel hubs replaced on your Buick Rendezvous? that vehicle has a different Wheel hub assembly unit, because it's a independent suspension system. on my 2004, the front and rear are the same style of wheel hub assemblies
I'm whapping on my rear bearing hub like an SOB (after removing all four bolts) and it won't budge. I'm going to get a slide hammer to see if it helps. Yes yes I sprayed PB blaster and Liquid Wrench all over the mating surfaces. So far no go. Not good.
Some of them can get really stuck. Might try taking the drum off and the wheel on. Try going from one side to the next if hitting on the back of the tire. Or an air hammer on the back of the wheel bearing or side. The center of the hub gets stuck in, they can be a real PITA VT247
had the same problem the bearing hub was rusted onto the housing and the back plate. First I removed the brake shoes and components on the right side, then used a 5 lb sledge hammer and hit on the bearing housing to pop it out from the housing. I put some muscle behind it. It would not pop from the housing, point on a hoist one would have more swing power. Not on a jack stands. Plan b. free rental of a rear wheel housing puller. After about 5 slides the bearing housing popped off with the back plate rusted together. Next I used WD 40 to bearing housing on the back of the back plate. Then wired brushed and chipped a way the rust with screw driver and a ballpean hammer all the time it being supported. Added more WD 40. Bolted it back on. Then soaked the front with WD 40. Wired brushed around the bolt connection. Next backed off the bolts for popping room. Next used sturdy slot screw, driver not to big, with a good edge. With a 5 LB sledge hammered on the side between backing plate and housing edge started in center moving up and down until it starts to pop the move to the top. Success. Remember patience, there are no shortcuts only focus. On the left side it popped from the back housing with the 5 pounder, did not need the puller. Everything the same. Cleaned both sides up. Reattached brake components and then installed new wheel hub assembly. On use WD40 as it best with rust. Hopes this helps , M
Thanx Mike I loosened all 4 bolts, did not remove brake shoes....just removed brake shoe hold down spring. This allowed me to move the shoes in front of the piston and clearance to get a thin chisel in. Patience, WD40 and small sledge...banging all around on both sides of the rear splash plate. After a small gap appeared I loosened all 4 bolts a little more, allowing the gap to widen. Eventually everything separated.
before removing backing plate completely, hold the backing plate and the drum brake with your feet while sitting on the ground, then use pry bar between the bearing and the plate while friend hits bearing with a heavy rubber mallet. I used the pry bar at the 3 oclock and 9 oclock position right against the drum brake pad, and at 12 oclock position I used a piece of flat stock to bridge between the two drum pads and pry'd against that. This was after letting sit with PB blaster for an hour. Came off pretty easy with that method.
Ok, I installed the right rear hub assembly on my 2003 Aztek FWD today. Everything was going well until I attempted to separate the hub from the backing plate. I tried everything. No Joy. The problem is that the outer rim of the hub assembly that passes through the backing plate rusts, and the two parts basically rust together. I even tried penetrating oil and heat, nothing worked. I finally removed the sensor connector from the back of the hub and disconnected the brake line, (left the parking brake cable connected) which allowed me access to the back of the hub. I then hit the hub assembly from the back with a hammer. I really beat the hell out of it, and the hub finally popped free from the backing plate. If you do this, wear protective glasses - the sensor part will shatter (it's hard plastic) when you hit it with a hammer. After reconnecting the brake line I bled the system. The hub assembly for the driver side arrives tomorrow and I plan to do that one on Thursday. Again, thanks for this video!
One of the hubs I installed on my Aztek was the same way. Rusted on and wouldn't come off. Beat the hell out of it with parts of the sensor flying like bomb debris. VT247
Replaced the drivers side rear hub this morning. I used what I learned from replacing the passenger side, so it went much quicker this time. As soon as I saw that it was rusted to the backing plate, I disconnected the brake line, disconnected the sensor connector, dropped the whole assembly to the ground and started hitting the back with a hammer. This time I had to hit it so hard that the entire ABS part was gone and I was down to hitting the bearing. I really had to hit it hard, a lot harder than the passenger side. A quick brake bleed using my Bleed-O-Matic and I was done in under an hour. Time for a shower!
+motorhead 2004 Chevy Venture here also. 250k. Drivers side wheel bearing squeaking and now rattling at 65mph. I was hoping there was a hole for the ABS sensor so I could stick a grease gun in there and grease it but apparently there isn't;
Mines shakes a bit on the pedal and I heard popping noises not loud but enough to hear when braking. I hv an 03 aztek fwd. I changed drums and cylinders n shoes n I still hear noise. Doing this with bearings is my next move. Wish me luck!! Tnx for video.
It's over cooling, a result of me drilling to many relief holes in the thermostat. My bad. Not a fun one to replace either. Bolts for the thermostat housing are difficult to access. VT247
Im going to buy a used aztek soon. How good are these vehicles. I'm looking at replacing tie rods and suspension gonna have it checked out first. Any problems you encounter
@@tinocontreras5105 Probably the biggest piece of advice I could give is to make sure it passes a coolant system pressure test. The gaskets on these engines are prone to failure, the head, intake and timing cover all eventually fail. VT247
Find the source of the grinding and replace, such as the HUB. For the shaking, check your front suspension components. Tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings and of course tires & rim. VT247
Just replaced both bearings on my 2000 Montana, went just the same but didnt have to take the back plate off. Definitely had to use some force to remoce the still factory bearing on one side! Also, I didn't see you use any grease, did you do that off camera or does this assembly not need it? My dad just got vme paranoid that I did...
JarrettOriginal The wheel bearings already have grease packed in them. Shouldn't need to grease anything back there. Take off the wheel, 4 bolts for the hub, replace and go. : ) VT247
Would a bad wheel bearing hub cause a creaking sound when braking? My father and I replaced the brake drum a few months ago because it was creaking when you would stop and it went away and has started to make a remergence in the past few weeks.
+Bad Drivers of North Central Maryland Yes, a bad wheel bearing can and will cause a grinding / creaking noise when braking. Hope you replaced the wheel cylinder as well when you did the brake drum. VT247
+Vacationtime247 I don't think we did replace the cylinder but I haven't noticed anything unusual about the brakes and I just had the lines replaced not to long ago and the shop never said anything about the brakes themselves being bad. And thanks for replying!!
+joe jeffries Most repairs on the rear axle / rear end on these vehicles can be done with it still bolted up. But if you find it easier to remove the whole thing, that's cool too. VT247
This is the good news from God our Father and JesusChrist our Lord! Repent and believe in the gospel. Mark 1:1516:19 Luke 24:44-47 Acts2:38 John 1:15:39 Matthew 6:33 God our Father keep blessing you! Luke 6:20 Ephesians 1:3
wow, this looks really simple. You're video is going to save me $500 at the mechanic! Thanks so much!
Thank you for uploading this video. Will be changing my rear wheel hub on my Oldsmobile Silhouette soon. Very good information, especially the part about the vibration when traveling over 70 mph help me narrow down the source of the vibration.
You're welcome! From Crescent City, California : )
VT247
Thanks Vacationtime247! Great video for those of us with FWD. Ordered the same hub assemblies as shown in the video (Raybestos 712237) from Amazon for $71.70 (best price at the current time) - hub assemblies appear very well made. 2003 Aztek with 120K miles.
Thank you Sr for the information l have a 2002 Buick rendezvous l need to replace the wheel bearing on rear this video make my day!!! Save me $150 dlls for bearing!!! You awesome 👍
....did you get your rear wheel hubs replaced on your Buick Rendezvous? that vehicle has a different Wheel hub assembly unit, because it's a independent suspension system. on my 2004, the front and rear are the same style of wheel hub assemblies
I'm whapping on my rear bearing hub like an SOB (after removing all four bolts) and it won't budge. I'm going to get a slide hammer to see if it helps. Yes yes I sprayed PB blaster and Liquid Wrench all over the mating surfaces. So far no go. Not good.
Some of them can get really stuck. Might try taking the drum off and the wheel on. Try going from one side to the next if hitting on the back of the tire. Or an air hammer on the back of the wheel bearing or side. The center of the hub gets stuck in, they can be a real PITA
VT247
Does the same procedure apply for a 2001 Chevy Venture
had the same problem the bearing hub was rusted onto the housing and the back plate. First I removed the brake shoes and components on the right side, then used a 5 lb sledge hammer and hit on the bearing housing to pop it out from the housing. I put some muscle behind it. It would not pop from the housing, point on a hoist one would have more swing power. Not on a jack stands. Plan b. free rental of a rear wheel housing puller. After about 5 slides the bearing housing popped off with the back plate rusted together. Next I used WD 40 to bearing housing on the back of the back plate. Then wired brushed and chipped a way the rust with screw driver and a ballpean hammer all the time it being supported. Added more WD 40. Bolted it back on. Then soaked the front with WD 40. Wired brushed around the bolt connection. Next backed off the bolts for popping room. Next used sturdy slot screw, driver not to big, with a good edge. With a 5 LB sledge hammered on the side between backing plate and housing edge started in center moving up and down until it starts to pop the move to the top. Success. Remember patience, there are no shortcuts only focus. On the left side it popped from the back housing with the 5 pounder, did not need the puller. Everything the same. Cleaned both sides up. Reattached brake components and then installed new wheel hub assembly. On use WD40 as it best with rust. Hopes this helps , M
Thanx Mike I loosened all 4 bolts, did not remove brake shoes....just removed brake shoe hold down spring. This allowed me to move the shoes in front of the piston and clearance to get a thin chisel in. Patience, WD40 and small sledge...banging all around on both sides of the rear splash plate. After a small gap appeared I loosened all 4 bolts a little more, allowing the gap to widen. Eventually everything separated.
before removing backing plate completely, hold the backing plate and the drum brake with your feet while sitting on the ground, then use pry bar between the bearing and the plate while friend hits bearing with a heavy rubber mallet. I used the pry bar at the 3 oclock and 9 oclock position right against the drum brake pad, and at 12 oclock position I used a piece of flat stock to bridge between the two drum pads and pry'd against that. This was after letting sit with PB blaster for an hour. Came off pretty easy with that method.
Ok, I installed the right rear hub assembly on my 2003 Aztek FWD today. Everything was going well until I attempted to separate the hub from the backing plate. I tried everything. No Joy. The problem is that the outer rim of the hub assembly that passes through the backing plate rusts, and the two parts basically rust together. I even tried penetrating oil and heat, nothing worked. I finally removed the sensor connector from the back of the hub and disconnected the brake line, (left the parking brake cable connected) which allowed me access to the back of the hub. I then hit the hub assembly from the back with a hammer. I really beat the hell out of it, and the hub finally popped free from the backing plate. If you do this, wear protective glasses - the sensor part will shatter (it's hard plastic) when you hit it with a hammer. After reconnecting the brake line I bled the system. The hub assembly for the driver side arrives tomorrow and I plan to do that one on Thursday. Again, thanks for this video!
One of the hubs I installed on my Aztek was the same way. Rusted on and wouldn't come off. Beat the hell out of it with parts of the sensor flying like bomb debris.
VT247
Replaced the drivers side rear hub this morning. I used what I learned from replacing the passenger side, so it went much quicker this time. As soon as I saw that it was rusted to the backing plate, I disconnected the brake line, disconnected the sensor connector, dropped the whole assembly to the ground and started hitting the back with a hammer. This time I had to hit it so hard that the entire ABS part was gone and I was down to hitting the bearing. I really had to hit it hard, a lot harder than the passenger side. A quick brake bleed using my Bleed-O-Matic and I was done in under an hour. Time for a shower!
Got 240k on my 2004 venture front bearings went now passenger side rear. Runs perfect minor problems.
+motorhead 2004 Chevy Venture here also. 250k. Drivers side wheel bearing squeaking and now rattling at 65mph. I was hoping there was a hole for the ABS sensor so I could stick a grease gun in there and grease it but apparently there isn't;
is this aztek all wheel drive?
Some Azteks are all wheel drive, but mine isn't. The Azteks that are AWD have the word Versatrak on the back glass.
VT247
I have a 03 rendezvous awd with disc brakes. is this the same way?
Buen video gracias
Mines shakes a bit on the pedal and I heard popping noises not loud but enough to hear when braking. I hv an 03 aztek fwd. I changed drums and cylinders n shoes n I still hear noise. Doing this with bearings is my next move. Wish me luck!! Tnx for video.
It's over cooling, a result of me drilling to many relief holes in the thermostat. My bad. Not a fun one to replace either. Bolts for the thermostat housing are difficult to access.
VT247
Im going to buy a used aztek soon. How good are these vehicles. I'm looking at replacing tie rods and suspension gonna have it checked out first. Any problems you encounter
@@tinocontreras5105 Probably the biggest piece of advice I could give is to make sure it passes a coolant system pressure test. The gaskets on these engines are prone to failure, the head, intake and timing cover all eventually fail.
VT247
@@Vacationtime247 this one has the 3400 engine. So looks like I will get that checked.
Do I need to do this on all 4 tires or just the rear? I have the same grinding noise, and shakes above 70mph.
Find the source of the grinding and replace, such as the HUB. For the shaking, check your front suspension components. Tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings and of course tires & rim.
VT247
Just replaced both bearings on my 2000 Montana, went just the same but didnt have to take the back plate off. Definitely had to use some force to remoce the still factory bearing on one side! Also, I didn't see you use any grease, did you do that off camera or does this assembly not need it? My dad just got vme paranoid that I did...
JarrettOriginal The wheel bearings already have grease packed in them. Shouldn't need to grease anything back there. Take off the wheel, 4 bolts for the hub, replace and go. : )
VT247
+Vacationtime247 took off wheel removed the 4 bolts for the hub but hub wont come off.
getting very frustrated.
Would a bad wheel bearing hub cause a creaking sound when braking? My father and I replaced the brake drum a few months ago because it was creaking when you would stop and it went away and has started to make a remergence in the past few weeks.
+Bad Drivers of North Central Maryland Yes, a bad wheel bearing can and will cause a grinding / creaking noise when braking. Hope you replaced the wheel cylinder as well when you did the brake drum.
VT247
+Vacationtime247 I don't think we did replace the cylinder but I haven't noticed anything unusual about the brakes and I just had the lines replaced not to long ago and the shop never said anything about the brakes themselves being bad. And thanks for replying!!
Probably be a good idea to replace the wheel cylinders and bearings. Check the rear control arm bushings as well.
VT247
+Vacationtime247 Okay.
took off wheel removed the 4 bolts for the hub but hub wont come off.
getting very frustrated.
+S Marena Gently persuade it with a BFH (big fuckin' hammer).
VT247
The backing plate is coming with it can't get it off backing plate
Put a few of the bolts back in loosely and try prying. Put the tire back on? Just throwing out some suggestions.
VT247
+Vacationtime247 ok thanks I'll have to try it another day I put everything back on it started to rain.
That is very much not the same process on a Rendezvous.
i understand that, but instead of ruining a thermostat to make it cool better just take it out. then put it back in if need be.
on most cars you should just be able to take the thermostat out if you need it to cool better
it looks like the rear end is coming out of my aztek
+joe jeffries Most repairs on the rear axle / rear end on these vehicles can be done with it still bolted up. But if you find it easier to remove the whole thing, that's cool too.
VT247
This is the good news from God our Father and JesusChrist our Lord!
Repent and believe in the gospel.
Mark 1:15 16:19
Luke 24:44-47
Acts2:38
John 1:1 5:39
Matthew 6:33
God our Father keep blessing you!
Luke 6:20
Ephesians 1:3
Tripod...