Excelente video muy didáctico, unos cordones divinos de la muerte, muchas gracias por compartir sus conocimientos,un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón, Galicia ( España)PD- Por favor subtítulos en español, gracias
Precisely what he said...the torch heat alone will sink the puddle, the amount of rod you shove in, and the amount of amperage u focus on it before you step forward, will determine how convex your freeze line and puddle height will be 👍👊 good luck!
if ur experienced with steel, imagine that aluminum is a whole different sport: it's not about being easier, or harder, it's simply very different. To answer to your question, differenlty from steel, on aluminum, if you loo for a good fusion and a good weld, you have to avoid laywire and feed A LOT the puddle; a good way to go, at least for me, is to use a bigger size rod than I would normally use for steel, so I won't need to push it that much and I will als be able to use it as an heat sink to prevent overheating the base material (obviously combined with a foot pedal or, other methods to control amperage in real time, wich is the trickiest part on aluminum).
From my experience even welds that have proper reinforcement can crack. Most cases when I had problem with cracking was with single bevel type of joint or dual on hard surface aluminium plates with high amount of magnesium. How I dealt with it was adding a root pass and going with lowest possible parameters on high speed. At least with GMAW, with GTAW you are on better side of welding as you pump less heat into weld anyway.
Hey Brian, on that crack at 3:05, I wonder if a contributing factor to the problem was that the weld was mostly base 6061 and not enough filler. I know you can't do an autogenous weld in 6061 because of its extreme tendency to hot crack. I kinda think this might also be a large contributor to the situation with concave beads, as there's not enough filler added to change the joint alloy enough to avoid hot cracking. On lap welds, it seems nearly impossible to tell afterwards how much of the top piece you chewed off versus how much filler was added to make up the bead. Your thoughts? (Love my PowerTIG 255EXT)
Hey Ralph I do not believe the contributing factor to the crack is it's only or mostly 6061alloy because I have seen in rare occasions times where 6061's been matched with filler metal of 6061. I Love the thought process and that 255ext is a great machine!
Learn to slow the feed dip down and you will never get flat welds, if you get good with your feed hand you will always be able control weld profile. Also with alloy you want tight overlapping beads or dimes for a tight and strong metal grain. The father you stretch the dime the weeker the grain. The same gos with alloy spoiling gunning, I don’t get why guys whip and pause alloy on boats so much. Liked this video and I liked how he knew some rocket science code. May the Arc force be with you
Excelente video muy didáctico, unos cordones divinos de la muerte, muchas gracias por compartir sus conocimientos,un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón, Galicia ( España)PD- Por favor subtítulos en español, gracias
An American said Alu-min-ium not Aloominum !!! Nice 👍👍 Hi from Down Under 🇦🇺
Here in merica its Aloominum! 🇺🇲 👌😂
@@bingo_welding7677 Indeed !!
Does the aluminum puddle by nature form as convex or is there a special technique to make it convex vs concave?
A weld it will naturally be concave to prevent concave bead profile all you need to do feed wire and control your heat. To oversimplify it
Precisely what he said...the torch heat alone will sink the puddle, the amount of rod you shove in, and the amount of amperage u focus on it before you step forward, will determine how convex your freeze line and puddle height will be 👍👊 good luck!
@@DCweldingAndArt @bingo_welding --
I appreciate the feed back. I will give it a try. Just getting into the aluminum side and was curious.
if ur experienced with steel, imagine that aluminum is a whole different sport: it's not about being easier, or harder, it's simply very different.
To answer to your question, differenlty from steel, on aluminum, if you loo for a good fusion and a good weld, you have to avoid laywire and feed A LOT the puddle; a good way to go, at least for me, is to use a bigger size rod than I would normally use for steel, so I won't need to push it that much and I will als be able to use it as an heat sink to prevent overheating the base material (obviously combined with a foot pedal or, other methods to control amperage in real time, wich is the trickiest part on aluminum).
The special technique is driving rod in there like there is no tomorrow. ;)
Brian. Good tips. Excuse me. Can I ask you some tips? I am repairing a gear box of car. Mi problem is it has little craks on welding. I am using 5356.
does laser welding change the game at all when welding 6061 ?
From my experience even welds that have proper reinforcement can crack. Most cases when I had problem with cracking was with single bevel type of joint or dual on hard surface aluminium plates with high amount of magnesium. How I dealt with it was adding a root pass and going with lowest possible parameters on high speed. At least with GMAW, with GTAW you are on better side of welding as you pump less heat into weld anyway.
Hey Brian, on that crack at 3:05, I wonder if a contributing factor to the problem was that the weld was mostly base 6061 and not enough filler. I know you can't do an autogenous weld in 6061 because of its extreme tendency to hot crack. I kinda think this might also be a large contributor to the situation with concave beads, as there's not enough filler added to change the joint alloy enough to avoid hot cracking. On lap welds, it seems nearly impossible to tell afterwards how much of the top piece you chewed off versus how much filler was added to make up the bead. Your thoughts? (Love my PowerTIG 255EXT)
Hey Ralph I do not believe the contributing factor to the crack is it's only or mostly 6061alloy because I have seen in rare occasions times where 6061's been matched with filler metal of 6061. I Love the thought process and that 255ext is a great machine!
Thnx!
Very useful
See, I’m not the only one. He can’t even pronounce his last name 😂 Great video Brother 🤘🔥
Learn to slow the feed dip down and you will never get flat welds, if you get good with your feed hand you will always be able control weld profile. Also with alloy you want tight overlapping beads or dimes for a tight and strong metal grain. The father you stretch the dime the weeker the grain. The same gos with alloy spoiling gunning, I don’t get why guys whip and pause alloy on boats so much.
Liked this video and I liked how he knew some rocket science code.
May the Arc force be with you
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Friends don’t let friends do crack...
Hi I'm Brian the Ghetto Brain and Bastard Forever with Overlapping Sweaters... What
Stop saying it that way lol
Please send me some free gear help me through school