Generally, this is how you can do it if you just need to remove the torque converter. There's no need to remove the entire transmission. 1. Loosen axle nuts on both wheels. 1:11 Secure engine and tranny from above, with engine support bar 2. Remove both wheels. 2.01 Disconnect the battery to avoid accidental shorts during starter removal. 2.1 Raise vehicle enough so tranny can be removed from under it 2.11 Drain any transmission fluid if part of your plan. 2:12 Remove lower end of strut from the control arm, so CV/axles can be removed 2.3 Remove both axles 2.4 Loosen bolts on front of sub-frame (but keep ~4 threads engaged, to allow tilting of subframe by not removal; front end of subframe will aid in keeping engine/tranny supported 3:38 Remove the two small bolts at rear of subframe-to-body plate, and loosen or remove the large bolts 6:02 Cable/connector: remove large lower connector, and small tab-connector 10:52 Cable/connector: remove speed sensor: push metal tab toward open ends of tab, and pull. 6:55 Remove transmission-to-subframe support on driver side (passenger-side doesn't need to be removed); and neutral safety module, and shift lever. The shift cable is a plastic socket-on-ball joint, and can be pushed toward the engine to remove (lubricate it with soapy water or armor-all first). 7:00 Remove transmission-to-subframe support on driver side 12:08 Disconnect the tranny-fluid lines from tranny at all points. 7:59 Remove the starter. You only need to undo the two main bolts of the starter, and a 10mm nut that holds a cable to the end of the starter. Then twist the end of the starter down and toward the front driver-side of the vehicle, and the engaging end can come free by moving it up and toward passenger-rear. 9:51 Remove bolts (T55 "star" driver!) from flywheel/TC plate through the opening where the starter was. 11:13 Remove transmission-to-engine bolts. Make sure Tranny is fully supported! Rec. remove hardest bolt first at top behind hoses( 13:04 ), then work from bottom up. Make SURE you label the bolts so you know where they go. Make sure the tranny is separated enough from the engine/flex-plate enough so a "nub" isn't still engaged, and then lower the tranny a bit, checking for any forgotten wires/connections. The tranny will NOT be able to drop straight down, due to the subframe; however, it can be angled about 10° downward toward the rear of the vehicle, and can slip away from the engine enough to remove just the torque converter if need be, or can continue rear-downward until removed. REINSTALLATION: Check your new torque converter (TC) to your old one, and make sure they are the same. Put 1/2 quart tranny fluid in your new TC. Put at least some of the bolts back into the engine block that will later pull the tranny onto the engine, the reason why is to use these bolts to hold in place a thin stainless steel gasket that is on the top half of the tranny-engine joint. It is super easy to misalign this gasket, and without the bolts holding it in place, it can be misaligned and then the bolts will not go in. When you put your TC on the tranny, jiggle it and turn it while pressing on it, as there is a series of steps in the shaft and it must be fully seated. Prior to putting the tranny all the way back to the face of the engine block, line the holes on the TC so that when you tighten the flywheel/plate of the engine to the TC, it all lines up for you. Not sure if this one is same, but on another car I put in the screws from the flywheel/plate *but kept all but the last screws loose* so that there would be no misalignments and the TC could jiggle relative to the flywheel to align all screws, whereupon the last screw can be fully tightened and the remaining screws then fully tightened. Use locktite on most of these bolts/screws. SUBFRAME: the long metric socket set from harbor freight has a socket in it that fits perfectly in the alignment holes on the subframe to car body, making alignment dead-on.
I kept the wife's 2004 Passat tdi for an engine swap into my 79 rabbit,as someone ran into it and totalled it. For 100$ it was dumb to not buy it back. Mines out on the floor currently,I figured the torque converter bolts were behind the starter but I'm glad to know it's a t55. you saved me a trip out to the shop without taking my larger torx set.
Glad to be of service. As long as you have some mechanical experience, a lot of times it is a good idea to buy back a totaled vehicle from the insurance company. Especially if it is only $100 :) Jesus is Lord Levi
Levi Jefferies thank you sir, I picked up even more from later in the vid. The car is almost ready to “go away”, and the size of the wiring harness will fill a shopping kart. These cars are built like tanks, the sound deadening is everywhere, w em inside the cast part of the trans mounts.
I spent the whole day trying to remove it but did not come out.At the end of the day I figured out that I need to remove the subframe.The video just confirmed with me that indeed the subframe should be removed.I was thinking of removing the subframe completely but now I know that subframe should only be half way out.
By far the most detailed and helpful video I've seen. I'm removing the engine from my Passat but the bottom few bolts connecting the engine to the transmission are almost inaccessible to me. Would it be wise to use the technique you used in this video to gain access to them?
This is great, i'm about to do the same job for our passat and you're video is absolute gold for a few less surprises, like dropping the motor/gearbox on my head =) Thanks.
I did put a couple plastic bag on the lines with rubber bands to keep the fluid from coming out. There is not too much fluid in the cooler lines (a quart at most), so you can just drain it into a pan.
Levi a quick question! I have a hard time removing one of the bolts on the passanger side above the exhaust...its seems in a way and no room to get a good leverage and unbolt it! Did you have to remove the flexpipe and cat converter or there is a different way without removing those rusty bolts and cause more trouble?
I did not remove the catalytic converter or any exhaust component. When I removed that bolt, I put a wrench on it, and then used a long pry bar to pry the wrench away from the transmission which loosened the bolt. Let me know if you have any more trouble.
I have to do this for a buddy of mine's TDi 05 Passat. This clears up a lot of questions I was having. Although, I'll be on my back in the driveway.. :( It seems the torque converter (which is apparently his issue) is what needs replaced (P0741 but trans shifts normal gears just fine, with 344k miles), the concensus is to buy the TC from dealer for $1000..
Glad to be of service. I had a 2005 Passat TDI Torque Converter rebuilt in California at a rebuilder for $250. It worked great. That would be my recommendation, especially with 344k miles. Jesus is Lord Levi
I actually found a company in CT called Erikkson Industries, who is an Authorized ZF transmission Distributor. zftranspart.com/ Great guys, been doing it a long time, and I found them to be VERY helpful. Not to mention great prices. Just thought I'd reference it here in case you needed to in the future. Time for me to lay on my back int he driveway and pull this trans now...
I use Redline D4, normally during a fluid drain and refill, you need about 7 quarts (Possibly a little more, especially if you are swapping torque converters.. Redline D4 is a good fluid to use and is recommended for the VW spec. It is roughly $12.50 a quart. Jesus is Lord Levi Jefferies
I have the same car as you have in your video, I just have a wagon. I am to the point of disconnecting the torque converter bolts but there are two that will not come loose. I’ve tried ratchets, 1/2” impact with pb blaster and heat. Nothing that I can think of will get them to come out. Any ideas of what I can do?
Hello, I have a question My past B5 1.9 TDi with a red It gives me a problem When you put it in first gear to start it jerks, then in second and third gear it doesn't do it. Sometimes my car shuts off when I release the pedal faster because it shifts too high.Do you have any advice where the problem is.
Do you know if a 1999 passat 5sp manual behind a 1.8 turbo will fit behind the 2005 passat tdi? I have both cars but not sure of compatability as they are 6 years appart.
Video is awesome, thanks! I may be facing this job myself in the near future. Do you need to do any programming of the vehicle for replacement trans, or is control module separate from the valvebody? Second question, I know there are alignment pins on the subframe for reassembly, is it easy to line back up without them?
You're welcome for the video. It can be helpful to reset the computer with VCDS after replacing a transmission, but it is not absolutely necessary. The control module for the transmission is under the carpet in the passenger front footwell. They sometime get water in them and cause transmission problems as well as fault codes and dash lights. And it is possible to get the subframe pretty close without the alignment pins. I believe this is how to relearn the transmission control module without VCDS, although I have not tried it personally. 1. Put your key in the ignition and turn ignition to the on position (the position right before you start the car) 2. Hold down the gas pedal pressing the button under the pedal for at least 20 seconds. 3. Let foot off pedal and start car. Be sure that you do no turn ignition off because that will void the reset
I ordered my manual transmission from Dutch Auto Parts and will be doing my best to figure out this swap on my own. Your videos have given me all the confidence to complete the job. I do have a question though, what happens to the transmission cooler lines from the automatic? Do the lines coming out of the radiator need to be plugged or just left open?
I have worked on Allroads before, but I honestly couldn't tell you for sure about the manual swap. It would be a very fun practical car if you did swap it though. All the best, Jesus is Lord Levi Jefferies
im on a passat 04 trans replace and i cant seem to figure out how to get the two top nuts off the exhaust where the pipes 1 on right 1 on left connect to the exhaust manifolds so there are three in total on each one and its the very top ones i cant reach
To be honest, I haven't pulled a transmission on a 2.8l V6 yet, all I can tell you is maybe use a u-joint on the socket and some extensions. But that is simply a guess. Sincerely, Levi Jefferies
Great video Levi! I have this vehicle that needs the torque converter replaced. Would you be interested in repairing it? If not do you recommend anyone in North Florida area?
I do not know of anyone in that area, and I personally don't have the equipment necessary to do it. I had a company in California rebuild mine. Sincerely, Levi Jefferies
Hey, I'm swapping a transmission from a rusty donor car into my uncles passat tdi. I just want to pull the transmission out of the donor car. Can the engine support itself or will it need a transmission or an engine support bar while the transmission is out. I will use a bar to remove the transmission but after the transmission is out, can I remove the bar and let the engine "hang"?
WATER LEAKING INTO FLOOR NIGHTMARE So my 2005 Passat tdi wagon Transmission stopped functioning going into neutral and check engine lights going on, I erased codes and was able to drive for 20-30 mph before it reverted to the going into neutral. Had it towed to dealer ,200$ diagnoses TCM FLOODED ruined maybe some connectors on TCM plug as well. 3000$ to replace these ,LEAKING HAS TO BE ADDRESSED. probably $$$$ more if Transmission-is ruined. Bought a used TCM for $300 supposedly programmed, Transmission does the same thing as with my so called Ruined TCM. Could my original TCM still be good? Maybe TCM plug is the issue? MY QUESTION IS THIS- could this issue be fixed electronically or do I need to get a used or rebuilt transmission? My local mechanic , trusted, not VW dealer mechanic, and I can get a warrantied used transmission an with labor put it in for $3000. My fear is doing that and finding out it is only the TCM or the TCM plug wires and connectors are the problem . See these codes we have come up with. We already replaced the tranny fluid and filter. Old fluid looked terrible and magnets covered in filings.Here are the codes we have come up with. The first three the original codes P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance/Stuck Off P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio P0811 Excessive clutch Slippage Mechanical Malfunction P1763 Shift Lock SolenoidN110) Open Circuit Mechanical Malfunction intermittent P01747 Transmission Solenoid Power Relay Open or Short to Ground Intermittent P0600 Serial Communication link
First off I would make sure there is no water damage in either the new tcm or the tcm plug, if there is that should be repaired first. You need to fix at least the communication fault before condemning the transmission as bad. If the gear ratio faults return after the tcm and wiring are repaired, then the tranny will need rebuilt or replaced.
To change the transmission fluid pump, then the answer would be yes. The transmission would have to be completely removed because the pump is bolted in the transmission bell housing, behind the torque converter.
Hi, on the 1.8t, it states in the haynes manual that you have to remove the exhaust front downpipe and the catalytic converter. does it have to be removed?
You do not have to remove the front down pipe or the catalytic converter. I did the job fairly easily without removing them, although it would have given me more room to work.
Just saw your reply, my answer would be no, I do not have any experience doing that. I am a full time mechanic, so it would not be too difficult to do though. Levi
Is this the same procedure on a 1.8t? Are there specific steps to take when installing to make sure the torque converter doesnt damage the oil pump in the trans?
I believe it should be almost the same. I removed a manual transmission from a 1.8t, but I have not personally removed the automatic. The TDI and the 1.8t are very similar. As for the torque converter, make sure it is fully pushed into the transmission. That is by far the most important thing. When you install the transmission, the torque converter should be able to spin pretty freely and not be bound up on the flexplate/flywheel. If it is up tight on the flexplate/flywheel, then the torque converter is not pushed all the way into the transmission. I am sure that you know, but make sure that the transmission is filled with transmission fluid. Jesus is Lord Levi
Generally, this is how you can do it if you just need to remove the torque converter. There's no need to remove the entire transmission.
1. Loosen axle nuts on both wheels.
1:11 Secure engine and tranny from above, with engine support bar
2. Remove both wheels.
2.01 Disconnect the battery to avoid accidental shorts during starter removal.
2.1 Raise vehicle enough so tranny can be removed from under it
2.11 Drain any transmission fluid if part of your plan.
2:12 Remove lower end of strut from the control arm, so CV/axles can be removed
2.3 Remove both axles
2.4 Loosen bolts on front of sub-frame (but keep ~4 threads engaged, to allow tilting of subframe by not removal; front end of subframe will aid in keeping engine/tranny supported
3:38 Remove the two small bolts at rear of subframe-to-body plate, and loosen or remove the large bolts
6:02 Cable/connector: remove large lower connector, and small tab-connector
10:52 Cable/connector: remove speed sensor: push metal tab toward open ends of tab, and pull.
6:55 Remove transmission-to-subframe support on driver side (passenger-side doesn't need to be removed); and neutral safety module, and shift lever. The shift cable is a plastic socket-on-ball joint, and can be pushed toward the engine to remove (lubricate it with soapy water or armor-all first).
7:00 Remove transmission-to-subframe support on driver side
12:08 Disconnect the tranny-fluid lines from tranny at all points.
7:59 Remove the starter. You only need to undo the two main bolts of the starter, and a 10mm nut that holds a cable to the end of the starter. Then twist the end of the starter down and toward the front driver-side of the vehicle, and the engaging end can come free by moving it up and toward passenger-rear.
9:51 Remove bolts (T55 "star" driver!) from flywheel/TC plate through the opening where the starter was.
11:13 Remove transmission-to-engine bolts. Make sure Tranny is fully supported! Rec. remove hardest bolt first at top behind hoses( 13:04 ), then work from bottom up. Make SURE you label the bolts so you know where they go.
Make sure the tranny is separated enough from the engine/flex-plate enough so a "nub" isn't still engaged, and then lower the tranny a bit, checking for any forgotten wires/connections. The tranny will NOT be able to drop straight down, due to the subframe; however, it can be angled about 10° downward toward the rear of the vehicle, and can slip away from the engine enough to remove just the torque converter if need be, or can continue rear-downward until removed.
REINSTALLATION: Check your new torque converter (TC) to your old one, and make sure they are the same. Put 1/2 quart tranny fluid in your new TC. Put at least some of the bolts back into the engine block that will later pull the tranny onto the engine, the reason why is to use these bolts to hold in place a thin stainless steel gasket that is on the top half of the tranny-engine joint. It is super easy to misalign this gasket, and without the bolts holding it in place, it can be misaligned and then the bolts will not go in. When you put your TC on the tranny, jiggle it and turn it while pressing on it, as there is a series of steps in the shaft and it must be fully seated. Prior to putting the tranny all the way back to the face of the engine block, line the holes on the TC so that when you tighten the flywheel/plate of the engine to the TC, it all lines up for you. Not sure if this one is same, but on another car I put in the screws from the flywheel/plate *but kept all but the last screws loose* so that there would be no misalignments and the TC could jiggle relative to the flywheel to align all screws, whereupon the last screw can be fully tightened and the remaining screws then fully tightened. Use locktite on most of these bolts/screws.
SUBFRAME: the long metric socket set from harbor freight has a socket in it that fits perfectly in the alignment holes on the subframe to car body, making alignment dead-on.
thank-you for taking the time to make that vid, good content, cheers
I kept the wife's 2004 Passat tdi for an engine swap into my 79 rabbit,as someone ran into it and totalled it. For 100$ it was dumb to not buy it back.
Mines out on the floor currently,I figured the torque converter bolts were behind the starter but I'm glad to know it's a t55.
you saved me a trip out to the shop without taking my larger torx set.
Glad to be of service. As long as you have some mechanical experience, a lot of times it is a good idea to buy back a totaled vehicle from the insurance company. Especially if it is only $100 :)
Jesus is Lord
Levi
Levi Jefferies thank you sir, I picked up even more from later in the vid.
The car is almost ready to “go away”, and the size of the wiring harness will fill a shopping kart.
These cars are built like tanks, the sound deadening is everywhere, w em inside the cast part of the trans mounts.
You're welcome. You are very right about the sound deadening.
Jesus is Lord
Levi
Thank you, I've been looking everywhere for a video showing this. I have the chilton manual but this video is 10x better
Thank you
Levi
I've been referencing your video the last few days as I'm swapping trans in an '03 Passat W8 Wagon 4Motion. Thank you.
Great video for those looking at the swap.
You're my new hero!
I spent the whole day trying to remove it but did not come out.At the end of the day I figured out that I need to remove the subframe.The video just confirmed with me that indeed the subframe should be removed.I was thinking of removing the subframe completely but now I know that subframe should only be half way out.
Thank you for this video Levi. I just took my Auto box out today. 🙏
You're welcome, glad to be of service!
@@levijefferies9329 where are you from
im already liking this just by the description....
Well done! This is very useful as I will be doing this soon.
By far the most detailed and helpful video I've seen. I'm removing the engine from my Passat but the bottom few bolts connecting the engine to the transmission are almost inaccessible to me. Would it be wise to use the technique you used in this video to gain access to them?
Bad ass video man. I appreciate you greatly
This is great, i'm about to do the same job for our passat and you're video is absolute gold for a few less surprises, like dropping the motor/gearbox on my head =) Thanks.
Thank You
Levi
Levi Jefferies one more question when you unbolt the trans fluid cooler lines did you have to plug then else they pour everywhere?
I did put a couple plastic bag on the lines with rubber bands to keep the fluid from coming out. There is not too much fluid in the cooler lines (a quart at most), so you can just drain it into a pan.
Levi a quick question!
I have a hard time removing one of the bolts on the passanger side above the exhaust...its seems in a way and no room to get a good leverage and unbolt it!
Did you have to remove the flexpipe and cat converter or there is a different way without removing those rusty bolts and cause more trouble?
I did not remove the catalytic converter or any exhaust component. When I removed that bolt, I put a wrench on it, and then used a long pry bar to pry the wrench away from the transmission which loosened the bolt.
Let me know if you have any more trouble.
Thank you so much, well done good sir
I have to do this for a buddy of mine's TDi 05 Passat. This clears up a lot of questions I was having. Although, I'll be on my back in the driveway.. :(
It seems the torque converter (which is apparently his issue) is what needs replaced (P0741 but trans shifts normal gears just fine, with 344k miles), the concensus is to buy the TC from dealer for $1000..
Glad to be of service.
I had a 2005 Passat TDI Torque Converter rebuilt in California at a rebuilder for $250. It worked great. That would be my recommendation, especially with 344k miles.
Jesus is Lord
Levi
I actually found a company in CT called Erikkson Industries, who is an Authorized ZF transmission Distributor. zftranspart.com/ Great guys, been doing it a long time, and I found them to be VERY helpful. Not to mention great prices. Just thought I'd reference it here in case you needed to in the future. Time for me to lay on my back int he driveway and pull this trans now...
Do you use VW fluid, or something else? I'm guessing 9-10 qts, but at the dealer, that's about $200 in fluid..
I use Redline D4, normally during a fluid drain and refill, you need about 7 quarts (Possibly a little more, especially if you are swapping torque converters.. Redline D4 is a good fluid to use and is recommended for the VW spec. It is roughly $12.50 a quart.
Jesus is Lord
Levi Jefferies
+Levi Jefferies How do you separate the TC from flex plate? I have all three bolts out but cant figure out how to push the TC back away from it..
Thx for the video. I am doing and the video help me alot. But i tell you i
will never buy a passat again.
I have the same car as you have in your video, I just have a wagon. I am to the point of disconnecting the torque converter bolts but there are two that will not come loose. I’ve tried ratchets, 1/2” impact with pb blaster and heat. Nothing that I can think of will get them to come out. Any ideas of what I can do?
Hello, I have a question My past B5 1.9 TDi with a red It gives me a problem When you put it in first gear to start it jerks, then in second and third gear it doesn't do it. Sometimes my car shuts off when I release the pedal faster because it shifts too high.Do you have any advice where the problem is.
this particular transmission is also found in Audi A4 tdi front wheel drive automatic with small differences in mounting
So much work to get out trans, compared to the oldest vw, looks like alot of work
You are very right. It is a lot of work compared to the older ones.
Jesus is Lord
Levi Jefferies
Do you know if a 1999 passat 5sp manual behind a 1.8 turbo will fit behind the 2005 passat tdi? I have both cars but not sure of compatability as they are 6 years appart.
How do you "take the cable off" at minute 8? I am guessing it just pops off with a bit of prying. I'll try that, hope I don't break it....
Video is awesome, thanks! I may be facing this job myself in the near future. Do you need to do any programming of the vehicle for replacement trans, or is control module separate from the valvebody? Second question, I know there are alignment pins on the subframe for reassembly, is it easy to line back up without them?
You're welcome for the video.
It can be helpful to reset the computer with VCDS after replacing a transmission, but it is not absolutely necessary. The control module for the transmission is under the carpet in the passenger front footwell. They sometime get water in them and cause transmission problems as well as fault codes and dash lights.
And it is possible to get the subframe pretty close without the alignment pins.
I believe this is how to relearn the transmission control module without VCDS, although I have not tried it personally.
1. Put your key in the ignition and turn ignition to the on position (the position right before you start the car)
2. Hold down the gas pedal pressing the button under the pedal for at least 20 seconds.
3. Let foot off pedal and start car. Be sure that you do no turn ignition off because that will void the reset
I ordered my manual transmission from Dutch Auto Parts and will be doing my best to figure out this swap on my own. Your videos have given me all the confidence to complete the job. I do have a question though, what happens to the transmission cooler lines from the automatic? Do the lines coming out of the radiator need to be plugged or just left open?
Glad to help, I hope it works good for you. I think I just left them open when I did it
Good vid bro
I just need to change the fluid pump on mine. Can i leave most of that stuff connected to the trans and just slide the trans down some?
Great video thank you!
great video
What are the part numbers for your flywheel ?
What is the starter that I need for the 5 speed manual transmission OEM part number or aftermarket
Great video.
where do you live
How do you get the top bolt off of the transmission?
Excellent explanation. Other than prop shaft, how different would it be on a same year A6 Allroad 2.5?
All the best
I have worked on Allroads before, but I honestly couldn't tell you for sure about the manual swap. It would be a very fun practical car if you did swap it though.
All the best,
Jesus is Lord
Levi Jefferies
@@levijefferies9329 Thanks for your information, I'm sure some of it will be relevant. Keep up the good work
@@mikeyjames1772 Thank you!
Bro about how much did you charged to replace transmission for a new one
im on a passat 04 trans replace and i cant seem to figure out how to get the two top nuts off the exhaust where the pipes 1 on right 1 on left connect to the exhaust manifolds so there are three in total on each one and its the very top ones i cant reach
To be honest, I haven't pulled a transmission on a 2.8l V6 yet, all I can tell you is maybe use a u-joint on the socket and some extensions. But that is simply a guess.
Sincerely,
Levi Jefferies
Great video Levi! I have this vehicle that needs the torque converter replaced. Would you be interested in repairing it? If not do you recommend anyone in North Florida area?
I do not know of anyone in that area, and I personally don't have the equipment necessary to do it. I had a company in California rebuild mine.
Sincerely,
Levi Jefferies
Hey, I'm swapping a transmission from a rusty donor car into my uncles passat tdi. I just want to pull the transmission out of the donor car. Can the engine support itself or will it need a transmission or an engine support bar while the transmission is out. I will use a bar to remove the transmission but after the transmission is out, can I remove the bar and let the engine "hang"?
You can let the engine hang once you bolt the subframe back up. Until then, you shouldn't.
Hope that helps.
Sincerely,
Levi Jefferies
WATER LEAKING INTO FLOOR NIGHTMARE
So my 2005 Passat tdi wagon Transmission stopped functioning going into neutral and check engine lights going on, I erased codes and was able to drive for 20-30 mph before it reverted to the going into neutral. Had it towed to dealer ,200$ diagnoses
TCM FLOODED ruined maybe some connectors on TCM plug as well.
3000$ to replace these ,LEAKING HAS TO BE ADDRESSED. probably $$$$ more if Transmission-is ruined. Bought a used TCM for $300 supposedly programmed,
Transmission does the same thing as with my so called Ruined TCM. Could my original TCM still be good?
Maybe TCM plug is the issue?
MY QUESTION IS THIS- could this issue be fixed electronically or do I need to get a used or rebuilt transmission?
My local mechanic , trusted, not VW dealer mechanic, and I can get a warrantied used transmission an with labor put it in for $3000. My fear is doing that and finding out it is only the TCM or the TCM plug wires and connectors are the problem .
See these codes we have come up with. We already replaced the tranny fluid and filter. Old fluid looked terrible and magnets covered in filings.Here are the codes we have come up with.
The first three the original codes
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance/Stuck Off
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0811 Excessive clutch Slippage Mechanical Malfunction
P1763 Shift Lock SolenoidN110) Open Circuit Mechanical Malfunction intermittent
P01747 Transmission Solenoid Power Relay Open or Short to Ground Intermittent
P0600 Serial Communication link
First off I would make sure there is no water damage in either the new tcm or the tcm plug, if there is that should be repaired first. You need to fix at least the communication fault before condemning the transmission as bad. If the gear ratio faults return after the tcm and wiring are repaired, then the tranny will need rebuilt or replaced.
on an 03 Pasat with the 1.8 does the trans have to come all the way out to change the pump???
To change the transmission fluid pump, then the answer would be yes. The transmission would have to be completely removed because the pump is bolted in the transmission bell housing, behind the torque converter.
Can I do this To a V5?
Hi, on the 1.8t, it states in the haynes manual that you have to remove the exhaust front downpipe and the catalytic converter. does it have to be removed?
You do not have to remove the front down pipe or the catalytic converter. I did the job fairly easily without removing them, although it would have given me more room to work.
thank you
You're welcome
I removed the transmission today, time to strip it. Any advise you can give me on it?
Do you mean strip the car, or the transmission?
Levi
Do you have any experiences in removing a 2014 Passat automatic transmission.
Just saw your reply, my answer would be no, I do not have any experience doing that.
I am a full time mechanic, so it would not be too difficult to do though.
Levi
this works for a 2004
hola alguie me podra decir como le hablo a este gran mecanico p ver mi carro similar plis grasias
Is this the same procedure on a 1.8t? Are there specific steps to take when installing to make sure the torque converter doesnt damage the oil pump in the trans?
I believe it should be almost the same. I removed a manual transmission from a 1.8t, but I have not personally removed the automatic. The TDI and the 1.8t are very similar. As for the torque converter, make sure it is fully pushed into the transmission. That is by far the most important thing. When you install the transmission, the torque converter should be able to spin pretty freely and not be bound up on the flexplate/flywheel. If it is up tight on the flexplate/flywheel, then the torque converter is not pushed all the way into the transmission. I am sure that you know, but make sure that the transmission is filled with transmission fluid.
Jesus is Lord
Levi
Thanks for the tip! I will be pulling it soon.
This is or isnt a automatic?
This is an automatic.
Sincerely,
Levi
Yeah im cooked