วีดีโอ

Question what cv axels did you use for the swap ?

I can't express how helpful this video has been for me. Thank You. You are the man!

10 yrs later, this video help a ton. Thank you so much sir 🫡

Super

Same problem with my 2018 model, and it's chronic. Unfortunately my DTCM harness travels back behind the intake and disappears. I'm still searching, thinking there has to be a bad wire somewhere. On my 3rd DTCM at 90K miles, issue keeps returning. Frustrating!

Where did you get the transmission mount from

I spent the whole day trying to remove it but did not come out.At the end of the day I figured out that I need to remove the subframe.The video just confirmed with me that indeed the subframe should be removed.I was thinking of removing the subframe completely but now I know that subframe should only be half way out.

Did u finished the project?😊

Can you please tell me what that book is called? Is it Haynes manual?

Hello, I have a question My past B5 1.9 TDi with a red It gives me a problem When you put it in first gear to start it jerks, then in second and third gear it doesn't do it. Sometimes my car shuts off when I release the pedal faster because it shifts too high.Do you have any advice where the problem is.

Hello, I have a question My past B5 1.9 TDi with a red It gives me a problem When you put it in first gear to start it jerks, then in second and third gear it doesn't do it. Sometimes my car shuts off when I release the pedal faster because it shifts too high.Do you have any advice where the problem is.

Thanks for helping to keep my shitbox on the road 😜

Generally, this is how you can do it if you just need to remove the torque converter. There's no need to remove the entire transmission. 1. Loosen axle nuts on both wheels. 1:11 Secure engine and tranny from above, with engine support bar 2. Remove both wheels. 2.01 Disconnect the battery to avoid accidental shorts during starter removal. 2.1 Raise vehicle enough so tranny can be removed from under it 2.11 Drain any transmission fluid if part of your plan. 2:12 Remove lower end of strut from the control arm, so CV/axles can be removed 2.3 Remove both axles 2.4 Loosen bolts on front of sub-frame (but keep ~4 threads engaged, to allow tilting of subframe by not removal; front end of subframe will aid in keeping engine/tranny supported 3:38 Remove the two small bolts at rear of subframe-to-body plate, and loosen or remove the large bolts 6:02 Cable/connector: remove large lower connector, and small tab-connector 10:52 Cable/connector: remove speed sensor: push metal tab toward open ends of tab, and pull. 6:55 Remove transmission-to-subframe support on driver side (passenger-side doesn't need to be removed); and neutral safety module, and shift lever. The shift cable is a plastic socket-on-ball joint, and can be pushed toward the engine to remove (lubricate it with soapy water or armor-all first). 7:00 Remove transmission-to-subframe support on driver side 12:08 Disconnect the tranny-fluid lines from tranny at all points. 7:59 Remove the starter. You only need to undo the two main bolts of the starter, and a 10mm nut that holds a cable to the end of the starter. Then twist the end of the starter down and toward the front driver-side of the vehicle, and the engaging end can come free by moving it up and toward passenger-rear. 9:51 Remove bolts (T55 "star" driver!) from flywheel/TC plate through the opening where the starter was. 11:13 Remove transmission-to-engine bolts. Make sure Tranny is fully supported! Rec. remove hardest bolt first at top behind hoses( 13:04 ), then work from bottom up. Make SURE you label the bolts so you know where they go. Make sure the tranny is separated enough from the engine/flex-plate enough so a "nub" isn't still engaged, and then lower the tranny a bit, checking for any forgotten wires/connections. The tranny will NOT be able to drop straight down, due to the subframe; however, it can be angled about 10° downward toward the rear of the vehicle, and can slip away from the engine enough to remove just the torque converter if need be, or can continue rear-downward until removed. REINSTALLATION: Check your new torque converter (TC) to your old one, and make sure they are the same. Put 1/2 quart tranny fluid in your new TC. Put at least some of the bolts back into the engine block that will later pull the tranny onto the engine, the reason why is to use these bolts to hold in place a thin stainless steel gasket that is on the top half of the tranny-engine joint. It is super easy to misalign this gasket, and without the bolts holding it in place, it can be misaligned and then the bolts will not go in. When you put your TC on the tranny, jiggle it and turn it while pressing on it, as there is a series of steps in the shaft and it must be fully seated. Prior to putting the tranny all the way back to the face of the engine block, line the holes on the TC so that when you tighten the flywheel/plate of the engine to the TC, it all lines up for you. Not sure if this one is same, but on another car I put in the screws from the flywheel/plate *but kept all but the last screws loose* so that there would be no misalignments and the TC could jiggle relative to the flywheel to align all screws, whereupon the last screw can be fully tightened and the remaining screws then fully tightened. Use locktite on most of these bolts/screws. SUBFRAME: the long metric socket set from harbor freight has a socket in it that fits perfectly in the alignment holes on the subframe to car body, making alignment dead-on.

you saved my life

Cover here, cover there, cover everywhere. When he says "cover" he's talking interior trim pieces. But yes, "covers", I guess. In the same way that the carpet, floor mats and body panels are just 'covers'.

What was that computer software for the timing?

Why not run one water cooled 14-20kW motor directly coupled to the main hydraulic pump on a tracked unit?

The bolt going through the axle flange output, flange CV axle I believe is tort yield and I believe the torque spec for that is like 20 to 50 pounds or something I’m gonna say 13 1/2 but still double check on the forms

I can't find right side axle shaft shield. Where can I find one? Or a part number?

I can't find right side axle shaft shield. Any help in finding one? Or part number?

Thank you so much, well done good sir

What kind of computer is this tablet style with a usb port ?

very cool project

What are the part numbers for your flywheel ?

Did you finish this Skidsteer? I want to convert one of mine to electric this summer. I use them 4 to 5 hours a day all summer. Electric would be perfect even if I just used it every other day and used the diesel alternating days.

Do you actually need to remove the cam sprocket? Seems like many just remove the tensioner below and work it off the cam itself. My cam wont come loose, so that's how i achieved it.

Good vid bro

Yeah im cooked

Do you have rev hang?

I have the same car as you have in your video, I just have a wagon. I am to the point of disconnecting the torque converter bolts but there are two that will not come loose. I’ve tried ratchets, 1/2” impact with pb blaster and heat. Nothing that I can think of will get them to come out. Any ideas of what I can do?

Bro this video is amazing thanks so much cause I’m one of those guys that can’t read the electrical diagrams wow I need this to convert my 18 Passat GT to 6 speed manual nice!!!

Howdy! For Golf4 Tdi Axr PD, can the electronic adjustment be done with wcds? If the distribution is set mechanically perfectly, can the injection time be adjusted electronically?

Where are you located? Looks like you did an awesome job. Would you be interested in doing mine?

After 9 years this video is still a tremendous help. Awesome job hope you're doing well!

Hey, how is this coming along?! Looks awesome

Very helpful video

A lot of work, now you scare me

Does work the same seal for both sides?

that wire looks green to me, or did you put the green tape on yellow wire?

How do you "take the cable off" at minute 8? I am guessing it just pops off with a bit of prying. I'll try that, hope I don't break it....

thank-you for taking the time to make that vid, good content, cheers

Does anyone happen to know a part number on the clutch line?

Can anybody tell me where the front expansion valve is

To remove the expansion valve do you need to evacuate the refrigerant?

Qual codico do suporte do coxim do cambio que esta no video 21:53?

I’m getting ready to do this for a Diesel 2001 VW 1.9tdi ALH Engine, I hope I can get this thing goin with todays fuel prices

Yellow wire, looks green to me.

i saw some videos they told us to fill the fluid with the same drain hole

can i know where should i fill the fluid

I have a 2005 B5.5 Variant and I would like to change the gearbox, this video of yours is excellent, but I would like to know where to buy this base that goes on the manual gearbox on the left side, will it be possible for you to help me or if you have it for sale or where to find this base. I live in Brazil and I'm a fan of Passat