Hi Jeanette, I have been using servers and teaching servers for about 30 years. This includes home servers with the cover stitch feature for as long as they've been on the market. I am hear to tell you that some of the women who beat their fabrics are not nuts😸. I own the same little Brother machine that you have and will testify that it is A GREAT little machine in the sewing room. I've never had any issues with it nor have I ever needed to hammer my fabric HOWEVER I have used my hump jumper from my Viking or folded fabric under the foot as a fabric leveler ON RARE occasions with this machine, On my combo machine it is a given that I will need it no matter where the presser foot pressure is set. The only imperfection of this Brother Cover stitch machine is the lack of harp area. I like using my cover stitch for shadow work and other decorative things which would be much easier with the Janome Cover Pro. Anyway!! I just wanted to let you know I think you quick and to the point videos are great. Not a lot of jibber jabber and I just bet lots of sewists out there are grateful ,,👍
Thank you for watching and giving your input. I don’t like long drawn out videos, I want to see what I need quickly. I have a jump jumper but I never use it, I found offsetting my serged seams works splendidly and I’ve had a total of 8 seams that I’ve offset go thru with no issues.
You are superwoman for me right now! May I say thank you to you and my friend Cat, for finding you and this video. Haven't tried it yet, but this sounds good to me... "just like butta" lol 😊
Glad the video will help you!! I have another one where I show you how to offset served seams to keep those areas flat too, it may also help you over bulky areas
I have watched your video again & again trying to determine why my baby lock evolution does wonky cover stitch over seams. Spent hours trying different needles, pressure foot pressure, etc. to no avail. Even took my machine to the shop for service even though it didn’t really need it. Finally I see what the problem is - it’s the big baby lock foot! The foot on your Brother is noticeably smaller. When I come to a seam the foot is so long it gets “beached”. As the front of the foot begins to lift over a seam, the back of the foot is pushed into the fabric and causes a binding effect. Then the front of the foot begins to distort the fabric causing a wonky cover stitch. I discovered babylock now makes a smaller foot for chain/cover stitching. I got one & tried it. It is better, but the problem is not eliminated completely. My solution is to sew just to the point where the front of the foot begins to lift (before it distorts the fabric) and then I stop to put a height compensation tool under the back of the foot right up to the needle. Then I am able to sew right over the seam with no problem. Babylock really needs to solve this problem. It is frustrating and annoying. Thank you so much for your excellent videos. They are a big help to many.
Yes I do offset my seams even when using the height compensation tool. I spent hours trying various presser foot settings until I had it so light the adjusting knob fell off. Changing differential feed, needles, etc made no difference. When I took my machine to the shop I explained my problem to them but when I got it back it was stitching beautifully (as it was when I took it in for service) until I went over a seam and then it was just as wonky as before. I feel certain about the foot causing the problem because I can see it happening.
@@carolochotorena4829 I never gave what foot I had on a second thought, I just prefer using the narrower one. Let me know how it goes after you get your foot and give it a try, I'm curious to see if it works better. If it does, you might be onto something for others with your machine!!! There always has to be a first and maybe you will be it for the baby lock people!!!! Look forward to the results!!!!
Jeanette, Many of your videos a few years old which is why I’m asking how the Brother 2340CV holding up? Any issues? I’m going back and forth deciding to make a purchase. A mixed review’s either they love it or hate it. Reviews that are consistent is the Brother 2340CV skips stitches and does not handle heavy fabric. Your thoughts? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.
I’ve got 2 of the Brother 2340 machines and both are performing excellently. The skipped stitches posts are from newbies that don’t have the machine set up correctly. Most are anxious to get going on it, don’t practice or have patience. Some actually think this machine is like a serger and it is not. It handles pretty much any fabric you can think of if you have the right settings and needles. Newbies are fast to blame the machine but 99% of the time it’s operator error. Hope this helps with your decision, and, just don’t buy a Consew!!!! If you decide on a Brother and have issues, you can always PM me thru FB.
@@jeanetteweger5518 WOW🤩! You’re amazing getting back quickly -Thank you. Absolutely your feedback helped. I will move forward based on your suggestions. Ken’s online has an open boxed which is at a decent price. Again, thank you so much for the info and responding in a timely manner (Super quick👍) .
Watch my videos to familiarize yourself with what to do and what needles to buy before your machine arrives and have a stack of scrap fabric ready to practice on. Most who watched the videos prior to the machine arriving generally had little to no issues once the machine arrived. Although the manual says nothing about oiling, I do have a video on where to oil. Again, if you have any issues or questions, don’t hesitate to PM me!!
My concern getting this is I am short so I will need to hem jeans and go over the hump. I've never used a coverstitch machine before and have been torn whether to buy this machine or the Janome. Thank you, years later and you are still helping me :) Have you had a chance to test jeans in the last 5 years? (I have a serger too but don't know how to use it either. I just started learning to sew, used to hand sew everything then moved to a sewing machine)
When cover stitching stretchy fabric do you change the needle or the presser foot on machine? Are every fabric use the same twin needle and presser foot?
For the presser foot, when I got the machine I set it at being 1/2” off the top of the machine and have never adjusted since. This is more or less the sweet spot for all fabrics. I use the same needles throughout the garment. I’ve really been using 80/12 sharps more lately.
@@jeanetteweger5518 thanks for replying. So all fabrics types ( spandex, cotton, polyester, denim etc) can use the same needle on the cover stitch machine. Or is the cover stitch machine for stretchy fabrics only?
The needles recommended are the 90/14 SUK BP for knits, which I use with no issues. For DBP, I use 80/12 sharps because DBP is a double stretch fabric and the sharps slice into the fabric whereas the ballpoints puncture. Any stretchy fabrics such as DBP, spandex, etc, I prefer to use the sharps.
Hola veo que al terminar de coser cortaste los hilos de las agujas, ésto tengo que hacerlo cada vez que termine una costura y volver a ensaltar las agujas ??
cada vez que terminas un dobladillo tienes que cortar tanto los hilos de la aguja como los del garfio para que puedas soltar la tela. Sin embargo, no estoy muy seguro de lo que quieres decir con reorganizar las agujas.
Cada vez que terminó de coser tengo que cortar los hilos por arriba de la aguja para que pueda soltar la tela y tengo que enhebrarla a cada rato lo cual es muy molesto, quisiera saber si hay alguna forma de terminar de coser y cortar los hilos pegado a la tela y que la tela pueda salir fácilmente
I was just referring to your video. In general I use cotton lycra, so not super stretch or thick. I'm thinking you would have the same setting for the whole piece but I'm not sure.
@@jenniebeswick2637 I use the same settings throughout the garment, I’ve never changed unless in that rare occasion tunneling happens and it sometimes does.
Good Evening. I’m so glad that I found you. I am, though, frustrated because when I purchased my machine, I was under the impression that it was a Serger. The woman that sold it to me Never corrected me when I said Serger in our conversations. I tried, twice, to thread my machine after watching a few videos on TH-cam. Not Successful Can you help???
Jeanette Weger Yes, I have watched that video. Thanks. You know, you are one of few people , here on TH-cam, with step by step instructions for These machines. Most videos are about use by then to see, not the basics.
hallecats thank you, I hate clicking into a video and having to watch someone 20 minutes just talking and 5 minutes telling me what to do. I want it short and to the point.
No sharps are just what they say, they are sharp. They slice into the fabric verses puncturing like ballpoint and stretch. With the sharps I don't get skipped stitches
Thank you for your speedy. You have shown/demonstrated a couple of these attachments (thank you) - which would you recommend for hemming stretch fabrics. I do not do anything much more sophisticated.
@@margueriteadams1457 if you don’t mind taping a generic binder to the machine, that’s what I suggest. I had the binder from Brother and didn’t like it. It was a double fold and it was too bulky for the baby clothes I make. I then bought what is called a top clean bottom raw binder on eBay which is half the thickness and I love it.
Lanadeene Rene there should be no need for a double fold binding on swimwear once you attach the elastic. If you zigzag the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric, then when you go to coverstitch you need only to turn under once to coverstitch the edge of the elastic enclosing it. Why or where would you do a double fold over binding on swimwear?
Jeanette Weger thanks for your quick response. I have seen it in a factory made swimsuit. Here is an example. If I have a white swimsuit but I would like all around the legs in green. Let’s say I am sewing around the legs. what I normally do is apply strip a fabric right sides facing by hand all around the leg of the swimsuit, then overlock the elastic on. Fold over the strip of fabric and coverstitch then I would cut off the excess the strip of fabric which is on the wrong side. So am wondering how can it be done your way.
My apologies. I am actually asking about the binding. I realize you did the binding without the attachment. Made an error the elastic is actually in the binding for factory made. I am trying to get an easier way to do it. Than how I make my bindings now.
Lanadeene Rene Im trying to visualize what you are referring to but am having difficulties so if you have a picture or link please attach so I can get a better idea of how to help you.
Jeanette Weger Jeanette Weger ok do have an email address I can send it to. I will make a video and email it. Mine is designerlanadeene@gmail.com if you don’t want to put yours on here
I have the same machine and set it to the same settings you suggest, but I still can't get it to stitch over a surged shoulder seam!!! I am so frustrated! I use light weight knit fabric and bought this machine for neckbands and bindings....Any suggestions?
Duanita Washington in front of the 1.0. the coverstitch machine has only 1 looper which is located in the slide door on the bed of the machine, the others are needles. Use Maxilock stretch in that only. As for your needles the machine uses 90/14 SUK BP. Get those on eBay. Organ brand needles HAx1 130/705 90/14 SUK BP. You can get 100 for 19.25 and free shipping. If you sew spandex type fabric, buy 80/12 sharp. Don't use regular spool thread, use serger thread in the needles. Hope this helps.
Hola soy de Costa Rica Ojala me puedas ayudar Estoy por comprarmela la maquina Se usan hilos comunes y corrientes? Se cambian las agujas según la tela? Se puede coser licras frías, punto strech,punto corriente? Le agradezco su ayuda!!😊
With this machine you use serger thread, the needles you should use are 90/14 SUK BP and I buy them on eBay and use them on most fabric I sew. When I sew really stretchy fabric I change to 80/12 sharps. I hope this answers your questions, if you have more out of I missed something, please let me know.
It’s clearly states the needles and looper tensions are at 2. Be sure to adjust your presser foot as that helps as well. The silver screw on top should be 1/2” off the top of the machine and once you get it there, never adjust it again, that’s the sweet spot. Measure from the right side of the screw. Hope this helps.
I have this same machine and I have issues with getting the stretch of my stitches to be the same as my fabric. For example I use this to sew trim on underwear and my elastic stretches way further than my stitching and I cannot get a good fit because I am losing elasticity after I top stitch. Any suggestions for settings? TIA!
Mermaid Parade Most definitely. Get some Maxilock stretch from Wawak. Are you serging the elastic on or using zigzag? I find zigzagging elastic doesn't eliminate the elasticity in the elastic as much as serging it on.
Jeanette Weger I am coverstitching it right on. I actually switched from my regular sewing machine to my cover stitch because I was having the same issues with zigzagging and my sewing machine was tunneling my fabric.
Hi, this is a very useful video, thanks! But I have a Singer coverstitch machine, so it's a bit difficult to compare the settings :( I have a question though: I have the feeling the pressure of the presser foot matters a lot when getting over thick seams. The manual says that the pressure should be INCREASED for heavy fabrics, but for going over thick seams should I increase or decrease it? Thank you in advance for your help :)
Have you tried offsetting your serged seams to get rid of the bulk in that area? Since you have a dinner, I suggest that you play around with some samples to see where your settings should be. I found for my machine that having the pressure foot screw being 1/2" off the machine is perfect for all fabrics I sew. Definitely try offsetting your seams, I have a video that shows you how to eliminate bulk.
@@jeanetteweger5518 thank you. I did already try offsetting the seams, it helps to some extent, but i still get jamming regularly, the machine gets stuck no matter how hard i push on the pedal :( I am using Singer Universal 90/14 on middle weight jersey/tricot (according to the manual suggestions).
@@makaridreamsbellydancefash5090 try using 80/12 sharp needles with offsetting. You may need to adjust your differential a tad too. instead of increasing the presser foot, loosen it so it flows over the bulk areas, you don't want it bearing down. Once you get things figured out for your machine, you might want to make videos to help others with the same machine!!! Most newbies want to blame errors on the machine because they don't want to take the time and experiment. They expect perfect results as soon as they get it out of the box, but there are learning curves and that's where patience and practice come into play. I sew everyday for others and I always make time to do a practice run before I go the actual garment because you just don't know how finicky the machine may be that particular day. Sometimes I think they have a mind of their own and like to frustrate us!!!! Simulate a sample and start adjusting your tensions and differential if you still get bogging or skipped stitches. I know it's time consuming but in the long run you'll find the adjusting is probably just minor tweaks.
@@jeanetteweger5518 Hi Jeanette, thank you for your suggestions! I decreased the pressure of the foot a tiny bit, and combined with proper offsetting it actually works fine now :) Good suggestion to make a video, but not sure I've got much time for that on the short term. So if anyone will bother reading this I can summarize my settings: Machine: singer 14t968dc (configured as coverstitch), fabrics: light and middle weigth cotton/elastan jersey, pressure of the presser foot: N or 2 (not higher than N), the default needles I received with the machine are Singer Universal Regular Point Sewing Machine Needles, Size 90/14 (they do the job but slightly damage the lighter fabric). So probably the needles you recommend will do better. I offset the serged seams as you explain in one of your videos and that works well now.
@@makaridreamsbellydancefash5090 I'll so glad to hear you found a sweet spot for sewing bulk areas!!! You may want to post on the coverstitch page your settings and machine to help others experiencing the same issues!! Way to go!!!!
I have the same exact machine and it absolutely HATES to go over any type of thickness. the other day I was hemming some polar fleece pants and that thing was skipping like crazy, especially when I crossed over the seams
@@jeanetteweger5518 I'm going to try that. I have also noticed that it seems to dislike being on wide needle setting. I'm going to play around with the tension a bit. I have my needles at 4 and my looper at 5. I'm going to try 2 and 3 like you have. in general, I think coverstitch machines are recalcitrant by nature and they always try my patience. My last job we had an industrial one and that thing would try to make everybody miserable
@@dindog22 I've had mine just about 5 years and I've never had my needle if looper settings higher that 3. You might want to change needles to 80/12 sharps too.
@@jeanetteweger5518 do you use sharps on knit fabrics? I have universal point needles in mine and I only use it on knits. I only do alterations. I have this machine at my job at a drycleaners. I have one at home too and that one runs great. I've had the one at home for around 5 years and the one at work for 2 or 3. the one at work gets way more use obviously
If you are looking to buy the machine, I recommend Ken’s Sewing. If you are wanting a binder attachment, I recommend eBay and look for seller “ngosew”.
Excellent camera work! I could see the result & hear the machine working quietly & smoothly. Thanks a bunch.
Jeanette, I really like your videos. You are a true teacher!
Shirley Cottingham thank you, I'm glad they help you!!!
Hi Jeanette,
I have been using servers and teaching servers for about 30 years. This includes home servers with the cover stitch feature for as long as they've been on the market. I am hear to tell you that some of the women who beat their fabrics are not nuts😸. I own the same little Brother machine that you have and will testify that it is A GREAT little machine in the sewing room. I've never had any issues with it nor have I ever needed to hammer my fabric HOWEVER I have used my hump jumper from my Viking or folded fabric under the foot as a fabric leveler ON RARE occasions with this machine, On my combo machine it is a given that I will need it no matter where the presser foot pressure is set. The only imperfection of this Brother Cover stitch machine is the lack of harp area. I like using my cover stitch for shadow work and other decorative things which would be much easier with the Janome Cover Pro. Anyway!! I just wanted to let you know I think you quick and to the point videos are great. Not a lot of jibber jabber and I just bet lots of sewists out there are grateful ,,👍
Thank you for watching and giving your input. I don’t like long drawn out videos, I want to see what I need quickly. I have a jump jumper but I never use it, I found offsetting my serged seams works splendidly and I’ve had a total of 8 seams that I’ve offset go thru with no issues.
You explained so well, I loved watching and had to subscribe!!!😍😍😍
Thank you! If you ever have issues please don’t hesitate to PM me.
You are superwoman for me right now! May I say thank you to you and my friend Cat, for finding you and this video. Haven't tried it yet, but this sounds good to me... "just like butta" lol 😊
Glad the video will help you!! I have another one where I show you how to offset served seams to keep those areas flat too, it may also help you over bulky areas
I have watched your video again & again trying to determine why my baby lock evolution does wonky cover stitch over seams. Spent hours trying different needles, pressure foot pressure, etc. to no avail. Even took my machine to the shop for service even though it didn’t really need it. Finally I see what the problem is - it’s the big baby lock foot! The foot on your Brother is noticeably smaller. When I come to a seam the foot is so long it gets “beached”. As the front of the foot begins to lift over a seam, the back of the foot is pushed into the fabric and causes a binding effect. Then the front of the foot begins to distort the fabric causing a wonky cover stitch. I discovered babylock now makes a smaller foot for chain/cover stitching. I got one & tried it. It is better, but the problem is not eliminated completely. My solution is to sew just to the point where the front of the foot begins to lift (before it distorts the fabric) and then I stop to put a height compensation tool under the back of the foot right up to the needle. Then I am able to sew right over the seam with no problem. Babylock really needs to solve this problem. It is frustrating and annoying. Thank you so much for your excellent videos. They are a big help to many.
Do you by chance offset some of the seams? And it does have allot to do with the presser foot and differential settings.
Yes I do offset my seams even when using the height compensation tool. I spent hours trying various presser foot settings until I had it so light the adjusting knob fell off. Changing differential feed, needles, etc made no difference. When I took my machine to the shop I explained my problem to them but when I got it back it was stitching beautifully (as it was when I took it in for service) until I went over a seam and then it was just as wonky as before. I feel certain about the foot causing the problem because I can see it happening.
@@carolochotorena4829 I never gave what foot I had on a second thought, I just prefer using the narrower one. Let me know how it goes after you get your foot and give it a try, I'm curious to see if it works better. If it does, you might be onto something for others with your machine!!! There always has to be a first and maybe you will be it for the baby lock people!!!! Look forward to the results!!!!
Love your tutorials!!!
Thank you, glad they help!
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. Val🇨🇦
The tension advice almost got me there - but you didn’t say which way to be one dot past the 1 - and I was wondering about the pressure foot as well 😊
What Thread are you using please. Thankyou. I love the dress. Could you share the Pattern? Love the Rolled hem on the binding fabric.
The thread is MaxiLock that I buy from Wawak and as for the pattern, I think it’s a basic cami/tank top that I added a front ruffle to.
Jeanette, Many of your videos a few years old which is why I’m asking how the Brother 2340CV holding up? Any issues? I’m going back and forth deciding to make a purchase. A mixed review’s either they love it or hate it. Reviews that are consistent is the Brother 2340CV skips stitches and does not handle heavy fabric. Your thoughts? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.
I’ve got 2 of the Brother 2340 machines and both are performing excellently. The skipped stitches posts are from newbies that don’t have the machine set up correctly. Most are anxious to get going on it, don’t practice or have patience. Some actually think this machine is like a serger and it is not. It handles pretty much any fabric you can think of if you have the right settings and needles. Newbies are fast to blame the machine but 99% of the time it’s operator error. Hope this helps with your decision, and, just don’t buy a Consew!!!! If you decide on a Brother and have issues, you can always PM me thru FB.
@@jeanetteweger5518 WOW🤩! You’re amazing getting back quickly -Thank you. Absolutely your feedback helped. I will move forward based on your suggestions. Ken’s online has an open boxed which is at a decent price. Again, thank you so much for the info and responding in a timely manner (Super quick👍) .
Watch my videos to familiarize yourself with what to do and what needles to buy before your machine arrives and have a stack of scrap fabric ready to practice on. Most who watched the videos prior to the machine arriving generally had little to no issues once the machine arrived. Although the manual says nothing about oiling, I do have a video on where to oil. Again, if you have any issues or questions, don’t hesitate to PM me!!
Lol. Been on top of your videos🤗. Again, thank you. Have an awesome day!😎
You make it look so simple
belle cruz it's all in your settings!!! You just have to work with the settings to find that sweet spot and once you get it, you seldom change!!!!
My concern getting this is I am short so I will need to hem jeans and go over the hump. I've never used a coverstitch machine before and have been torn whether to buy this machine or the Janome. Thank you, years later and you are still helping me :) Have you had a chance to test jeans in the last 5 years? (I have a serger too but don't know how to use it either. I just started learning to sew, used to hand sew everything then moved to a sewing machine)
Here’s my video
th-cam.com/video/ie4L3Wnklio/w-d-xo.html
When cover stitching stretchy fabric do you change the needle or the presser foot on machine? Are every fabric use the same twin needle and presser foot?
For the presser foot, when I got the machine I set it at being 1/2” off the top of the machine and have never adjusted since. This is more or less the sweet spot for all fabrics. I use the same needles throughout the garment. I’ve really been using 80/12 sharps more lately.
@@jeanetteweger5518 thanks for replying. So all fabrics types ( spandex, cotton, polyester, denim etc) can use the same needle on the cover stitch machine. Or is the cover stitch machine for stretchy fabrics only?
@@tineishajarrett8708 you can do all types of fabric but if doing cotton/woven you wouldn’t use the stretchy needles.
Should we use certain needles with knit fabric? Also any tips on double brushed polyester?
The needles recommended are the 90/14 SUK BP for knits, which I use with no issues. For DBP, I use 80/12 sharps because DBP is a double stretch fabric and the sharps slice into the fabric whereas the ballpoints puncture. Any stretchy fabrics such as DBP, spandex, etc, I prefer to use the sharps.
Hola veo que al terminar de coser cortaste los hilos de las agujas, ésto tengo que hacerlo cada vez que termine una costura y volver a ensaltar las agujas ??
cada vez que terminas un dobladillo tienes que cortar tanto los hilos de la aguja como los del garfio para que puedas soltar la tela. Sin embargo, no estoy muy seguro de lo que quieres decir con reorganizar las agujas.
Cada vez que terminó de coser tengo que cortar los hilos por arriba de la aguja para que pueda soltar la tela y tengo que enhebrarla a cada rato lo cual es muy molesto, quisiera saber si hay alguna forma de terminar de coser y cortar los hilos pegado a la tela y que la tela pueda salir fácilmente
Hi, what are your settings on your machine for thick fabric. I'd love to stop hammering.
What fabric are you using or are you referring to the thick seam area?
I was just referring to your video. In general I use cotton lycra, so not super stretch or thick. I'm thinking you would have the same setting for the whole piece but I'm not sure.
@@jenniebeswick2637 I use the same settings throughout the garment, I’ve never changed unless in that rare occasion tunneling happens and it sometimes does.
Good Evening. I’m so glad that I found you.
I am, though, frustrated because when I purchased my machine, I was under the impression that it was a Serger. The woman that sold it to me Never corrected me when I said Serger in our conversations.
I tried, twice, to thread my machine after watching a few videos on TH-cam. Not Successful
Can you help???
Have you watched my video on quick tips to get started using your Brother 2340CV, it shows you how to thread the machine.
Jeanette Weger Yes, I have watched that video. Thanks. You know, you are one of few people , here on TH-cam, with step by step instructions for These machines. Most videos are about use by then to see, not the basics.
hallecats thank you, I hate clicking into a video and having to watch someone 20 minutes just talking and 5 minutes telling me what to do. I want it short and to the point.
Are sharps ballpoint or stretch needles , I am pretty new to this so not sure if it will be the same here in Australia. Many many thanks
No sharps are just what they say, they are sharp. They slice into the fabric verses puncturing like ballpoint and stretch. With the sharps I don't get skipped stitches
Jeanette Weger thank you I will go to the sewing shop and get some tomorrow
@@eileenmccallum1239 anytime and if you ever have issues you can always private message me!!!
Jeanette, what the heck is that long narrow hole used for?
It’s for the binding attachment you can buy from Brother. (Which are quite pricy)
Thank you for your speedy. You have shown/demonstrated a couple of these attachments (thank you) - which would you recommend for hemming stretch fabrics. I do not do anything much more sophisticated.
@@margueriteadams1457 if you don’t mind taping a generic binder to the machine, that’s what I suggest. I had the binder from Brother and didn’t like it. It was a double fold and it was too bulky for the baby clothes I make. I then bought what is called a top clean bottom raw binder on eBay which is half the thickness and I love it.
Jeanette your videos are amazing I ave learnt so much from you. Can you please tell me what kind of needles you use for swim wear. Many thanks Eileen
I use Schmetz 80/12 sharps And thank you, I'm glad the videos help!!!
I thanks you the video. Is it possible to do a double fold binding on this machine for swimwear after I have attached the rubber elastic?
Lanadeene Rene there should be no need for a double fold binding on swimwear once you attach the elastic. If you zigzag the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric, then when you go to coverstitch you need only to turn under once to coverstitch the edge of the elastic enclosing it. Why or where would you do a double fold over binding on swimwear?
Jeanette Weger thanks for your quick response. I have seen it in a factory made swimsuit. Here is an example. If I have a white swimsuit but I would like all around the legs in green. Let’s say I am sewing around the legs. what I normally do is apply strip a fabric right sides facing by hand all around the leg of the swimsuit, then overlock the elastic on. Fold over the strip of fabric and coverstitch then I would cut off the excess the strip of fabric which is on the wrong side. So am wondering how can it be done your way.
My apologies. I am actually asking about the binding. I realize you did the binding without the attachment. Made an error the elastic is actually in the binding for factory made. I am trying to get an easier way to do it. Than how I make my bindings now.
Lanadeene Rene Im trying to visualize what you are referring to but am having difficulties so if you have a picture or link please attach so I can get a better idea of how to help you.
Jeanette Weger Jeanette Weger ok do have an email address I can send it to. I will make a video and email it. Mine is designerlanadeene@gmail.com if you don’t want to put yours on here
I have the same machine and set it to the same settings you suggest, but I still can't get it to stitch over a surged shoulder seam!!! I am so frustrated! I use light weight knit fabric and bought this machine for neckbands and bindings....Any suggestions?
Mandi Patel I recently posted a video " Creating flat seams on leotards". Go view that video, I think it will help allot. Let me know.
Differential Feed at “one dot past one”? Is that behind the 1.0 or in front?
Duanita Washington in front of the 1.0. the coverstitch machine has only 1 looper which is located in the slide door on the bed of the machine, the others are needles. Use Maxilock stretch in that only. As for your needles the machine uses 90/14 SUK BP. Get those on eBay. Organ brand needles HAx1 130/705 90/14 SUK BP. You can get 100 for 19.25 and free shipping. If you sew spandex type fabric, buy 80/12 sharp. Don't use regular spool thread, use serger thread in the needles. Hope this helps.
Hola soy de Costa Rica
Ojala me puedas ayudar
Estoy por comprarmela la maquina
Se usan hilos comunes y corrientes?
Se cambian las agujas según la tela?
Se puede coser licras frías, punto strech,punto corriente?
Le agradezco su ayuda!!😊
With this machine you use serger thread, the needles you should use are 90/14 SUK BP and I buy them on eBay and use them on most fabric I sew. When I sew really stretchy fabric I change to 80/12 sharps. I hope this answers your questions, if you have more out of I missed something, please let me know.
Hello! Can you please show your machine's tensions while doing this?
It’s clearly states the needles and looper tensions are at 2. Be sure to adjust your presser foot as that helps as well. The silver screw on top should be 1/2” off the top of the machine and once you get it there, never adjust it again, that’s the sweet spot. Measure from the right side of the screw. Hope this helps.
@@jeanetteweger5518 thanks for the fast reply! Will do that. Blessings 🙌🏽
@@kandyramirez any other issues you can always private message me thru Facebook
@@jeanetteweger5518is the 1/2” you refer to to do with the pressure foot 🙂
@@Tweeza57 yes, it’s for adjusting the presser foot.
I have this same machine and I have issues with getting the stretch of my stitches to be the same as my fabric. For example I use this to sew trim on underwear and my elastic stretches way further than my stitching and I cannot get a good fit because I am losing elasticity after I top stitch. Any suggestions for settings? TIA!
Mermaid Parade are you using a stretch thread in the looper?
Jeanette Weger I am not. Will that help?
Mermaid Parade Most definitely. Get some Maxilock stretch from Wawak. Are you serging the elastic on or using zigzag? I find zigzagging elastic doesn't eliminate the elasticity in the elastic as much as serging it on.
Jeanette Weger I am coverstitching it right on. I actually switched from my regular sewing machine to my cover stitch because I was having the same issues with zigzagging and my sewing machine was tunneling my fabric.
Mermaid Parade when you cut the bands, cut on the cross grain not with the grain too, some make that mistake.
Hi, this is a very useful video, thanks! But I have a Singer coverstitch machine, so it's a bit difficult to compare the settings :( I have a question though: I have the feeling the pressure of the presser foot matters a lot when getting over thick seams. The manual says that the pressure should be INCREASED for heavy fabrics, but for going over thick seams should I increase or decrease it? Thank you in advance for your help :)
Have you tried offsetting your serged seams to get rid of the bulk in that area? Since you have a dinner, I suggest that you play around with some samples to see where your settings should be. I found for my machine that having the pressure foot screw being 1/2" off the machine is perfect for all fabrics I sew. Definitely try offsetting your seams, I have a video that shows you how to eliminate bulk.
@@jeanetteweger5518 thank you. I did already try offsetting the seams, it helps to some extent, but i still get jamming regularly, the machine gets stuck no matter how hard i push on the pedal :( I am using Singer Universal 90/14 on middle weight jersey/tricot (according to the manual suggestions).
@@makaridreamsbellydancefash5090 try using 80/12 sharp needles with offsetting. You may need to adjust your differential a tad too. instead of increasing the presser foot, loosen it so it flows over the bulk areas, you don't want it bearing down. Once you get things figured out for your machine, you might want to make videos to help others with the same machine!!! Most newbies want to blame errors on the machine because they don't want to take the time and experiment. They expect perfect results as soon as they get it out of the box, but there are learning curves and that's where patience and practice come into play. I sew everyday for others and I always make time to do a practice run before I go the actual garment because you just don't know how finicky the machine may be that particular day. Sometimes I think they have a mind of their own and like to frustrate us!!!! Simulate a sample and start adjusting your tensions and differential if you still get bogging or skipped stitches. I know it's time consuming but in the long run you'll find the adjusting is probably just minor tweaks.
@@jeanetteweger5518 Hi Jeanette, thank you for your suggestions! I decreased the pressure of the foot a tiny bit, and combined with proper offsetting it actually works fine now :) Good suggestion to make a video, but not sure I've got much time for that on the short term. So if anyone will bother reading this I can summarize my settings: Machine: singer 14t968dc (configured as coverstitch), fabrics: light and middle weigth cotton/elastan jersey, pressure of the presser foot: N or 2 (not higher than N), the default needles I received with the machine are Singer Universal Regular Point Sewing Machine Needles, Size 90/14 (they do the job but slightly damage the lighter fabric). So probably the needles you recommend will do better. I offset the serged seams as you explain in one of your videos and that works well now.
@@makaridreamsbellydancefash5090 I'll so glad to hear you found a sweet spot for sewing bulk areas!!! You may want to post on the coverstitch page your settings and machine to help others experiencing the same issues!! Way to go!!!!
Quiero saber el costo de una máquina collaletera cómo puedo acquirirla
what is the tension number please ?
In the video I say that are at 2
Rubber mallet won’t harm fibres use a cloth too 💓
The whole point is to have correct settings so you don't have to hammer.
What type of needles are you using?
Dania medina on this project the 90/14 SUK BP
Jeanette Weger thanks! Bigger needle for thicker layers.
What does hammering mean?
Some actually use a hammer on thick seams to flatten them.
Thank you !!! What needles do you use, size/# and brand?
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Glad you like the video!
Glad you like the video!
I have the same exact machine and it absolutely HATES to go over any type of thickness. the other day I was hemming some polar fleece pants and that thing was skipping like crazy, especially when I crossed over the seams
You may need to adjust your presser foot a bit, offset your seams and possibly adjust your differential. You can always PM me with questions.
@@jeanetteweger5518 I'm going to try that. I have also noticed that it seems to dislike being on wide needle setting. I'm going to play around with the tension a bit. I have my needles at 4 and my looper at 5. I'm going to try 2 and 3 like you have. in general, I think coverstitch machines are recalcitrant by nature and they always try my patience. My last job we had an industrial one and that thing would try to make everybody miserable
@@dindog22 I've had mine just about 5 years and I've never had my needle if looper settings higher that 3. You might want to change needles to 80/12 sharps too.
@@jeanetteweger5518 do you use sharps on knit fabrics? I have universal point needles in mine and I only use it on knits. I only do alterations. I have this machine at my job at a drycleaners. I have one at home too and that one runs great. I've had the one at home for around 5 years and the one at work for 2 or 3. the one at work gets way more use obviously
@@dindog22 yes I use the sharps on knits. You should use sharps or ballpoint for knits, not universal.
A quien tengo que dirigirme para comprar una remallora domstoca
If you are looking to buy the machine, I recommend Ken’s Sewing. If you are wanting a binder attachment, I recommend eBay and look for seller “ngosew”.
Wow, le point égal partout...wow
deberia tener los subtítulos en español 😢😢