You guys are gonna need some high octane fuel to combat spark knock. And proper timing. Can’t wait to see this fellas. Then get that engine in something and get that power to the ground. I’ll be on the edge of my seat to see this.
You guys are right in the diesel engine territory with that kind of cylinder pressure. So it would be interesting to see how long the modified gasoline engine would last on diesel fuel with the injectors mounted into the spark plug holes with the machined diesel injector clamps mounted to where the spark plugs should be in just so they stay put and hold the pressure.
The oil tings is designed to hold oil to evenly lube the cylinder, and remove excess, the lower ring is to scrape oil from the wall, keeping it out of the combustion chamber, the reason the more rings raised compression, is because the rings are higher on the piston.. you could simply add a ring land at the top of the piston, and move the existing rings up, more rings only rob power, more friction! And it takes time to seat the rings to get a good deal!
There is a certain pressure threshold before it will behave like a diesel engine. A diesel engine has pressure of 300 - 500 psi. And that engine is producing compression similar to low end of diesel compression.
WTF!!! 20:1 From a Lada engine that's insane congratulations to the team there! 😃that means, they achieved better compression ratio even from the modern (skyactiv) combustion engines of Mazda. Well done guys there! I appreciate your simple and the hardworking way that you all devoted to your projects. Thumbs up from me Garage54!
No my man, you mixed all up and is confusing all the terms! 20:1 is simply a ratio of how many times the compression volume can be inside the cylinder volume(stroke volume + compression volume). It has nothing to do with pressure! But you can say that in order for a diesel engine to run properly, you need at least 18:1 or more than that. Mazda has achieved 14:1 in their diesel engine, but has a hard time to start in winter due to low pressure and therefor low heat. But they managed to sort that out using exhaust and glow plugs. The reason they did the low compression ratio was because it produces less NOx and particulates! The new skyactiv x that runs on gas, has a compression ratio of 16:1. What the actual compression pressure is, I don’t know, but could be in the region of 15-20 bar of pressure. For diesel engines the compression pressure must be between 30 to 50 bar in order for the finely misted diesel fuel to ignite
It will bend the rods instantly. Engine knock is basically how diesel engines work, with that high compression, idk if it will last long even on straight gasoline or LPG
Vlad will have to send the stock Lada cam to Isky Cams in California. They can analyze the stock cam and then make an entirely new custom cam from scratch for this particular Lada engine.
wish they would someday combine all power boosting experiments into one vechile. Like what beast it would make with dual engines, shaved crankshafts, dual carbies, extra piston ring... plus whanever else i forgot
I built a Honda engine that maxed out a 300 psi gauge in 3 rotations so we had no idea how high it really was, it took a pair of pliers to hit the release valve
The best way to increase dynamic compression is camshaft timing. Advance the cam a bit. Maybe 4 degrees or so, and you'll get more low end grunt. Also, good cylinder head port, and seat work will help. Try a 5 angle valve job, and cut the intake valves and seats to 30 degrees. This will present more open area at the valve curtain at lower lifts, and will enhance low lift flow, improves cylinder scavenging, and will build low end torque
@@TurboVisBits Well, technically you're pumping air with an engine, which is a fluid but not liquid. And you're not trying to compress liquid on any refrigeration system, just the low temp/low pressure gas into high temp/pressure gas into the condensing coil. But even so, this wouldn't work as there's too much leakage everywhere and you'd just keep loosing refrigerant. Cars still use piston based compressors, and there are piston based compressors for HVAC, however they've fallen way out of favor for scroll and centrifugal the last 20 years.
This engine could be suited to run on diesel, considering the high compression ratio. But it needs to have its internals strengthened so that it doesn't disintegrate after a short while
Maybe it would be wise to back the timing right down on this thing and run 50% gasoline and 50% diesel to begin with. I wonder if the connecting rods are going to hold up. Don't really understand the reason for putting compression rings where the oil ring should be. Hopefully this isn't a problem for lubrication
Wondering with all that decking if they adjusted the valve clearance of it was OK on that engine? Even non interference engines can run close to the pistons. Looking forward to seeing this being converted to a Diesel which I bet is the game but the question will be how well the bottom end will/ would hold up as well as maybe the rods? Have thought of doing this myself on a larger engine doing low power but being able to run on diesel for a generator.
The main issue I imagine is the total combustion pressure is relative to normal atmospheric pressure, there's probably some sort of a curve that shows the inefficiencies of too-high compression where at some point you're using all the combustion energy just to compress the next shot, and no useful energy comes out of the crankshaft.
@@Chris_Garman you don't know how physics work do you. Good luck magically harnessing all the kinetic energy from a tiny explosion in a tiny chamber where you nearly have no control over combustion timing, and then having it somehow flywheel into another compression.
@@dimitar4y Look in the mirror perhaps? If nothing is absorbing the energy through heat or deformation, it is all harnessed. Generally 1/3 of ICE energy is waste heat.
Practical engines have been built with ratios up to 25:1 this is about 20:1. What your saying sounds right but a good few engines have gotten to the same level or not quite alot higher ratios.
One of three things will happen once the engine starts 1. Head bolts/studs will fail and head will shoot off 2. Main cap bolts/studs will fail and crank will fly out the bottom 3. If they run gasoline as the fuel, the plugs will blow out the head, or there will be a massive predetonation that will destroy the engine
Most diesels I have worked on had about 500 PSI compression pressure. Now that is with one injector out and the fuel line dumping into a jar or jumpered in the case of Detroit. Compression is with the engine running. Don't know how the 285 was attained. A bit high for conventional gasoline technology, but Mazda has an engine running that way, and I believe lean burn.
An idea I just had: What would happen if you put like 3 or 4 brake calipers on each brake disk on a car? Would the brakes be extremely twitchy or what would happen? Could you lock up the tires at 50km/h?
Not sure if the connecting rods will be able to survive the extra compression, I have a feeling a piston and/or rod is eventually going to break. Also you must have an oil ring on the pistons, premature wear on the rings and cylinder walls will happen and also more friction and heat will be generated, basically the engine won't last, could even seize.
They should weld the cam then file and sand it all smooth and see if they can make there own performance cam... They would have to figure out how to harden the lobes perhaps using a stick welder with a really hard rod...
@@DarkLinkAD they work fine for non dry sump applications.. lots of goofy scenario... gas ports on stock cams cause problems, vac pumps cause problems... shrug.
It's a good thing these Russian Lada engines are very simple.... Imagine if Germany had their own version of garage 54 and they were regularly rebuilding Audi engines......
Maybe a head without a gasket, use o-rings, something rubbery for water and oil, maybe a copper o-ring, allowing the head To fit deck to deck, maybe use a thermal grease in between, to promote thermal transfer, preventing rust. Maybe deck the block until the piston rings are about 1mm from the deck, then machine a 1 mm pocket into the head, maintaining valve clearance, and quench pads, clearance, are tight, tight enough to prevent carbon buildup. Possibly reach, 250psi compression! And CNC the piston dome to fit the head,
It’s great how you lot keep coming up with new ideas and testing them out so we don’t have too. Have you tried fitting a different head to the larda engine block or fit a larda head to a different engine block. I used to test that when I worked at the scrap yard. I found 3 different engines that you can swap heads and blocks
its going to seize, dril someo tiny holes in the lower 2 sets of rings, dress and polish, at least there will be a way to oil the cylinders, for the compression issue you need a jake brake or compression reaslee for each barrel... you open it up then slowly close while cranking over with ignition and fuel on, she'll fire and spin on 12V
Assuming the already in place set of piston rings was installed correctly with proper end gap and the cylinder bore is not excessively out of round or tapered, adding additional ring sets will not offer any significant advantage. GM played with this on several "Big Block" truck engines back in the 1960s. If additional rings worked it would be something raceing teams were doing as a regular thing. But in reality all it does is increase frictional losses and operating temperatures.
I had a opel gt with 18 kilos and i had to run 105 fuel and two cans of Is octane boost just stop the spark Knock. The car ran great 0 two sixty in 3 seconds top speed at 185mph.
You can run with this much compression, it takes 130 octane leaded aircraft fuel, and a retarding of the ignition timing, but, it is feasible. I seen my cousin run an Oldsmobile 5.7 liter diesel this way, back thirty five years ago. That little engine was a torque monster
I would like to see a motor running with HHO only. It would be a kind of electric motor with low efficiency because a big battery would be needed to make the gaz
if the valves are open at all during any compression what so ever, you have so much that it could be pressurizing the head therefore the crank case. could explain the blow by. different cam and valves shell run mint
This is Omazing!!! You need at least 175 PSI to 200 PSI on U.S. pump gas for a performance engine. Now with your target of 285 PSI or 20 to 23 kilos pressure, you need to run an extreme octane fuel, you already have micro welds on your valves in the chamber. You can increase cam duration an incredible amount to help and that shall only work to lower the average PSI. You need a high horsepower starter to start it as well, and reinforced starter gears and flywheel or flexplate teeth if it is going to take this abuse. A high quality GEAR PLASTIC is the durable answer. They are stronger and more durable than steel alloy type gears and gear teeth. The engine is going to explode, keep water below 150* degrees and use an oil cooler. Your engine is going to have 1.5-1.75 times the torque the stock form of the engine produces. Get ready for bent valves, bent rods, cracked crankshaft, melted piston and valves, and extreme heat and instantaneous oil starvation and bearing elimination and failure. You need to polish the valve surfaces perfectly smooth and piston tops to eliminate hot spots and heat risers, and add ceramic coating to the entire chamber even if the pistons are high quality forgings by MAHLE. You need a brutally strong material exhaust valve designed for high heat. And the exhaust valve guide tube, needs at least to be a phosphor bronze tube at least and perhaps the intake valve tube as well. This is Omazing!
Please get a base line on a dino or a tuner program. Also with that many rings I’d let it idle for awhile or go around the block a couple times not to exceed 2000rpm and do an oil change.
gotta appreciate the russian stereotype of always wearing a tracksuit and buddy puts on his fancy tracksuit for this vid love the videos just poking the russian bear
You might have to run that engine on natural gas (120 octane) CNG, or propane, something nice and slow burning, and then try diesel 😂, I machined 2mm off my Nissan GA16DE cylinder head and it just happened to be 1cr per mm, and ended up being 12.5 - 1cr, so I can only keep it happy on Gull 98 😊
youre gonna need some high octane fuel lol curious to see how this turns out if you use pump gas... lots of detonation I'd guess. As for extra rings im of the belief they dont really make a difference at higher rpm. at cranking speed they do but once your at running speed and especially into the powerband I dont think they help.
![Cleaver Restoration [Black Cleaver With Ebony Handle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qoqfCg-qs3E/mqdefault.jpg)
Wonder if they’ll try running it on diesel, should easily run with that compression
They would need to modify the head to fit diesel injectors, somehow fit a pump, and then the rods would probably just bend.
Ethanol or methanol mixtures of high octane petrol or something like that. Maybe pure petrol. LPG is an option.
@@kordta Would be too high for methanol as well i think. LPG might work, but i doubt the engine would live long.
I wonder running E90 or even some leaded aircraft fuel would suffice
Nitromethane used in RC cars/planes might work, but still it's very high compression.
He’s like Gru in that he’s a good guy, but he’s always cooking up something diabolical to do to ladas. The shop workers are definitely his minions.
😆
welcome to mother russia
Ace mechanics
The Ladas are his minions LOL
LMAO 😂
You guys are gonna need some high octane fuel to combat spark knock. And proper timing. Can’t wait to see this fellas. Then get that engine in something and get that power to the ground. I’ll be on the edge of my seat to see this.
Ethanol is perfect for that.
@Ti They’ll probably need around 120 octane. This can go very bad, very quickly.
Spark knock? Do you mean preignition as it occurs prior to the spark?
i think knocking is the idea, so much knocking that spark plugs wont be necessary.
@@ohyou_6599 Diesel it is!
That engine is either going to run really good or it's going to get ugly quick!
It'll knock harder than a bailiff
Big end shells will probably give up
My lawnmower has 250 PSI per piston ( it is an old TurfTiger)
@@AndrewAudio that sounds pretty high for a gasoline enginge ... maybe your valves need adjusting?
@E01F nope, I thought of that too. I checked the stats online and they matched.
You guys are right in the diesel engine territory with that kind of cylinder pressure. So it would be interesting to see how long the modified gasoline engine would last on diesel fuel with the injectors mounted into the spark plug holes with the machined diesel injector clamps mounted to where the spark plugs should be in just so they stay put and hold the pressure.
how many rings is to many rings you asked well watch and find out🤣
The oil tings is designed to hold oil to evenly lube the cylinder, and remove excess, the lower ring is to scrape oil from the wall, keeping it out of the combustion chamber, the reason the more rings raised compression, is because the rings are higher on the piston.. you could simply add a ring land at the top of the piston, and move the existing rings up, more rings only rob power, more friction! And it takes time to seat the rings to get a good deal!
@Karl with a K definitely not next to nothing. Piston rings cause a significant portion of a whole engine friction.
@Karl with a K karl, i would just like to add that the high performance racing 2 stroke engines mainly use single ring pistons
But the two strokes racers aren't diesel either
@@Samheraghty-qs7uz matters notwhat kind of fuel the engine uses-their pistons still have ring(s)
There is a certain pressure threshold before it will behave like a diesel engine. A diesel engine has pressure of 300 - 500 psi. And that engine is producing compression similar to low end of diesel compression.
WTF!!! 20:1 From a Lada engine that's insane congratulations to the team there! 😃that means, they achieved better compression ratio even from the modern (skyactiv) combustion engines of Mazda.
Well done guys there!
I appreciate your simple and the hardworking way that you all devoted to your projects.
Thumbs up from me Garage54!
No my man, you mixed all up and is confusing all the terms!
20:1 is simply a ratio of how many times the compression volume can be inside the cylinder volume(stroke volume + compression volume). It has nothing to do with pressure!
But you can say that in order for a diesel engine to run properly, you need at least 18:1 or more than that. Mazda has achieved 14:1 in their diesel engine, but has a hard time to start in winter due to low pressure and therefor low heat. But they managed to sort that out using exhaust and glow plugs. The reason they did the low compression ratio was because it produces less NOx and particulates!
The new skyactiv x that runs on gas, has a compression ratio of 16:1. What the actual compression pressure is, I don’t know, but could be in the region of 15-20 bar of pressure. For diesel engines the compression pressure must be between 30 to 50 bar in order for the finely misted diesel fuel to ignite
I love this channel, they love breaking things, pushing the boundaries in the interest of education and simply fun
Not so sure all that cylinder pressure wont blow the head off?
That explains the .030 flycut lol. I was gonna comment on it before but i decided there might be a reason you did it. Now i know.
I love these guys ,they are trying literally everything I think about while am working on an engine.
rejoice or are full of regret meh either way is entertaining to watch🤣
Now it need dual carburetors good fuel and a car this must be the first garage 54 motor that I seen that could be a N/A race engine
This should run great as a diesel.
Spark Plug holes for the injectors and where the distributor goes for the diesel pump.
Glow plugs are optional
i like where you are going with this !!!
It will bend the rods instantly. Engine knock is basically how diesel engines work, with that high compression, idk if it will last long even on straight gasoline or LPG
Add a cam with a good amount of valve overlap and alcohol for fuel and that motor should make some impressive power.
Vlad will have to send the stock Lada cam to Isky Cams in California. They can analyze the stock cam and then make an entirely new custom cam from scratch for this particular Lada engine.
He reminds me of the EVIL MAD SCIENTIST!!! (But on the good guy side). Truly a man of fine arts. Epic build guys!!!.
wish they would someday combine all power boosting experiments into one vechile. Like what beast it would make with dual engines, shaved crankshafts, dual carbies, extra piston ring... plus whanever else i forgot
All that, but 2 of the inline 12 they made
As long as narrowing the ring lands don't break that should be awesome for torque even with the added drag.
9:00 "Chillinder one"! Indeed fantastic!
Very chill😂
God, I love these guys. They just GO FOR IT. In the name of science :-)
Wow. Nice Cliffhanger. I'm excited to see the next video. Also. Congrats on nearing 800 Subscribers. Congratulations. You all deserve it.
I built a Honda engine that maxed out a 300 psi gauge in 3 rotations so we had no idea how high it really was, it took a pair of pliers to hit the release valve
The best way to increase dynamic compression is camshaft timing. Advance the cam a bit. Maybe 4 degrees or so, and you'll get more low end grunt. Also, good cylinder head port, and seat work will help. Try a 5 angle valve job, and cut the intake valves and seats to 30 degrees. This will present more open area at the valve curtain at lower lifts, and will enhance low lift flow, improves cylinder scavenging, and will build low end torque
using more rings will increase the drag robbing power
Yes! Can't wait to see this engine running!
When they go put video bro
I need to see it running already 🤣
When this gonna happen?
@@nicolasjuares9414 no idea I'm hoping that they do it soon
This is definitely going to be turned into an AC compressor
LOL i wish, you can't pump a fluid with a 4 cycle :D
I was thinking it would be a diesel.
@@TurboVisBits Well, technically you're pumping air with an engine, which is a fluid but not liquid. And you're not trying to compress liquid on any refrigeration system, just the low temp/low pressure gas into high temp/pressure gas into the condensing coil. But even so, this wouldn't work as there's too much leakage everywhere and you'd just keep loosing refrigerant. Cars still use piston based compressors, and there are piston based compressors for HVAC, however they've fallen way out of favor for scroll and centrifugal the last 20 years.
Only 2 Zylinders
Run it on 2 cylinders and use the remaining 2 for compressing AC gas
for those wondering that is about 19.5:1 compression
I would think the hose should handle the higher compression since the gage goes way past 20 kilopascals. It should be interesting to see it run. 👍
do it buy a card with his autograph get it while supplies last🤣
This engine could be suited to run on diesel, considering the high compression ratio.
But it needs to have its internals strengthened so that it doesn't disintegrate after a short while
Inbox me for more information 👆👆......
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
TELL ME YOU’RE GOING TO TRY RUNNING IT OFF OF STRAIGHT DIESEL 🙏
More like staight gasoline lol for a dieseling cycle
@@neptarclepuffin honestly, if they run it purely off compression I’ll be happy 😂
@@turtlemotonation ping ping ping kaboom
@@detaart Knock Knock
@@centralintelligenceagency9003who's there?
I been asking for this for 2 years! Finally you're finally doing this..
Maybe it would be wise to back the timing right down on this thing and run 50% gasoline and 50% diesel to begin with. I wonder if the connecting rods are going to hold up. Don't really understand the reason for putting compression rings where the oil ring should be. Hopefully this isn't a problem for lubrication
10/10 need to see it properly tuned on the dyno
I’d love to see if it makes power or goes bang
need to put that twin carb manifold they made on it.
You guys should try running this on a high octane/ top fuel mix
They will need alcohol for sure
Great video guys, thanks for sharing.
Wondering with all that decking if they adjusted the valve clearance of it was OK on that engine? Even non interference engines can run close to the pistons.
Looking forward to seeing this being converted to a Diesel which I bet is the game but the question will be how well the bottom end will/ would hold up as well as maybe the rods?
Have thought of doing this myself on a larger engine doing low power but being able to run on diesel for a generator.
Add some sidedrafts and a hot cam and it'll be a great race engine. Run it on home made alcohol
The main issue I imagine is the total combustion pressure is relative to normal atmospheric pressure, there's probably some sort of a curve that shows the inefficiencies of too-high compression where at some point you're using all the combustion energy just to compress the next shot, and no useful energy comes out of the crankshaft.
That's nearly impossible. What do you think the actual pressure of the explosion is?
@@Chris_Garman you don't know how physics work do you. Good luck magically harnessing all the kinetic energy from a tiny explosion in a tiny chamber where you nearly have no control over combustion timing, and then having it somehow flywheel into another compression.
Well see boy well see stfk
@@dimitar4y Look in the mirror perhaps? If nothing is absorbing the energy through heat or deformation, it is all harnessed. Generally 1/3 of ICE energy is waste heat.
Practical engines have been built with ratios up to 25:1 this is about 20:1.
What your saying sounds right but a good few engines have gotten to the same level or not quite alot higher ratios.
As Rob Ferreira said, try running it on diesel. Your 20 bar compression rate should ignite the diesel with no issue!
One of three things will happen once the engine starts
1. Head bolts/studs will fail and head will shoot off
2. Main cap bolts/studs will fail and crank will fly out the bottom
3. If they run gasoline as the fuel, the plugs will blow out the head, or there will be a massive predetonation that will destroy the engine
Oh yeah! I'm looking forward to the next phase
Most diesels I have worked on had about 500 PSI compression pressure. Now that is with one injector out and the fuel line dumping into a jar or jumpered in the case of Detroit. Compression is with the engine running. Don't know how the 285 was attained. A bit high for conventional gasoline technology, but Mazda has an engine running that way, and I believe lean burn.
An idea I just had: What would happen if you put like 3 or 4 brake calipers on each brake disk on a car? Would the brakes be extremely twitchy or what would happen? Could you lock up the tires at 50km/h?
Да заблокируется
You guys are up to almost 700k. Subs ! I remember the orig garage humble russian beginning Congratulations 🎊
Sounds like some serious boost is going to be achievable with that engine well hopefully & that’s a very nice color combination on the engine
Instead of increasing compression, do 1 forge engine with crazy boost
284.6psi for those playing along at home.
Thank you
Not sure if the connecting rods will be able to survive the extra compression, I have a feeling a piston and/or rod is eventually going to break. Also you must have an oil ring on the pistons, premature wear on the rings and cylinder walls will happen and also more friction and heat will be generated, basically the engine won't last, could even seize.
Just throw some 2 cycle oil in the gas lol
@@samleen true lol
@@samleen Bad spark then!
cant wait to see this running 😄
They should weld the cam then file and sand it all smooth and see if they can make there own performance cam... They would have to figure out how to harden the lobes perhaps using a stick welder with a really hard rod...
They could spray weld the lobes and have it hard face nitrited they do it to repair cranks and camshafts on heavy industrial engines
Finally a purpose for that old diesel fuel injector pump you had bolted to that other Lada.
Using total seal piston rings will achieve the same result, but without the additional friction extra rings will cause.
Says the marketing. Lotta people having issues with those in the real world.
How do you Mount them
@@DarkLinkAD they work fine for non dry sump applications.. lots of goofy scenario... gas ports on stock cams cause problems, vac pumps cause problems... shrug.
russian rings are far superior to american gimmicks .
@@andreastheile426
just like american girls
It's a good thing these Russian Lada engines are very simple.... Imagine if Germany had their own version of garage 54 and they were regularly rebuilding Audi engines......
Run the exhaust into the intake, wrap copper coils arnd exhaust pipe to generate lotts of steam for intake, 300 mpg
Thanks!
Should be fun seeing whether this engine can survive such high compression or not... :P
Maybe a head without a gasket, use o-rings, something rubbery for water and oil, maybe a copper o-ring, allowing the head
To fit deck to deck, maybe use a thermal grease in between, to promote thermal transfer, preventing rust. Maybe deck the block until the piston rings are about 1mm from the deck, then machine a 1 mm pocket into the head, maintaining valve clearance, and quench pads, clearance, are tight, tight enough to prevent carbon buildup. Possibly reach, 250psi compression! And CNC the piston dome to fit the head,
Screw rebuilds, imma just machine my pistons to fit 6 rings 🤣
He speaks so calmly idk he just seems a good person overall..
I think i see him as a fatherly figure...
It’s great how you lot keep coming up with new ideas and testing them out so we don’t have too. Have you tried fitting a different head to the larda engine block or fit a larda head to a different engine block. I used to test that when I worked at the scrap yard. I found 3 different engines that you can swap heads and blocks
Good luck with this project💪
its going to seize, dril someo tiny holes in the lower 2 sets of rings, dress and polish, at least there will be a way to oil the cylinders, for the compression issue you need a jake brake or compression reaslee for each barrel... you open it up then slowly close while cranking over with ignition and fuel on, she'll fire and spin on 12V
The montage music on this channel is top tier
Assuming the already in place set of piston rings was installed correctly with proper end gap and the cylinder bore is not excessively out of round or tapered, adding additional ring sets will not offer any significant advantage. GM played with this on several "Big Block" truck engines back in the 1960s. If additional rings worked it would be something raceing teams were doing as a regular thing. But in reality all it does is increase frictional losses and operating temperatures.
I had a opel gt with 18 kilos and i had to run 105 fuel and two cans of Is octane boost just stop the spark Knock. The car ran great 0 two sixty in 3 seconds top speed at 185mph.
Garage 54 is like a car verzion of mythbusters.
i lov3 you all stay safe. ty for this happy pic-me-up- love-love.
You can run with this much compression, it takes 130 octane leaded aircraft fuel, and a retarding of the ignition timing, but, it is feasible. I seen my cousin run an Oldsmobile 5.7 liter diesel this way, back thirty five years ago. That little engine was a torque monster
I wish I lived nearby these guys so I could see all the experiments in person
Is this going onto the drift bus? That might work great!It's been a while since last time we saw the cool BUS on the channel
Chillinder one! Love it 🤣🤣✌️
Love the channel. Awesome experiments
alcohol theoretically supports compression ratios of 16/1, the ignition timing should have almost no advance, I would do it like this
I would like to see a motor running with HHO only. It would be a kind of electric motor with low efficiency because a big battery would be needed to make the gaz
Another idea: modify camshaft in the way that it spins at crankshaft speeds, then lobes in the way to make engine work as 2-stroke. It seems doable 🤔
err no
Don't forget about intake valve timing to create an Atkinson cycle engine that would reduce max psi hybrids use it for efficiency,
if the valves are open at all during any compression what so ever, you have so much that it could be pressurizing the head therefore the crank case. could explain the blow by. different cam and valves shell run mint
Love your videos!
This is Omazing!!!
You need at least 175 PSI to 200 PSI on U.S. pump gas for a performance engine. Now with your target of 285 PSI or 20 to 23 kilos pressure, you need to run an extreme octane fuel, you already have micro welds on your valves in the chamber. You can increase cam duration an incredible amount to help and that shall only work to lower the average PSI. You need a high horsepower starter to start it as well, and reinforced starter gears and flywheel or flexplate teeth if it is going to take this abuse. A high quality GEAR PLASTIC is the durable answer. They are stronger and more durable than steel alloy type gears and gear teeth. The engine is going to explode, keep water below 150* degrees and use an oil cooler. Your engine is going to have 1.5-1.75 times the torque the stock form of the engine produces. Get ready for bent valves, bent rods, cracked crankshaft, melted piston and valves, and extreme heat and instantaneous oil starvation and bearing elimination and failure. You need to polish the valve surfaces perfectly smooth and piston tops to eliminate hot spots and heat risers, and add ceramic coating to the entire chamber even if the pistons are high quality forgings by MAHLE. You need a brutally strong material exhaust valve designed for high heat. And the exhaust valve guide tube, needs at least to be a phosphor bronze tube at least and perhaps the intake valve tube as well. This is Omazing!
6 rings per piston 🤯
That engine will run nicely on Ethanol or Methanol.
methanol is the fuel needed and realy large jets in the carb
You should try running an engine with 2 cut-down shorter conrods and 2 normal length ones
Imagine strapping a turbo to this thing with 285 PSI already getting in!!!
Thats called a bomb my friend..
Just a casual team of ASE certified techs
Please get a base line on a dino or a tuner program. Also with that many rings I’d let it idle for awhile or go around the block a couple times not to exceed 2000rpm and do an oil change.
Make high compresion and then try to run it on diesel and without spark plugs this should be fun :)))
Maybe try to install injectors in the place of the spark plugs :))
I bet that would make some powerful torque
gotta appreciate the russian stereotype of always wearing a tracksuit and buddy puts on his fancy tracksuit for this vid
love the videos just poking the russian bear
You might have to run that engine on natural gas (120 octane) CNG, or propane, something nice and slow burning, and then try diesel 😂, I machined 2mm off my Nissan GA16DE cylinder head and it just happened to be 1cr per mm, and ended up being 12.5 - 1cr, so I can only keep it happy on Gull 98 😊
Could this engine run on petrol and diesel? Should look into that...
Awesome work!!
Well I think it's going to run, but ignition timing might cause problems with these fuels
With have get there hands on methanol or some sort of alcohol based fuel.
Why pre ignition is called bad bro
should do a little video on how to increase compression in low displacement bikes
youre gonna need some high octane fuel lol curious to see how this turns out if you use pump gas... lots of detonation I'd guess. As for extra rings im of the belief they dont really make a difference at higher rpm. at cranking speed they do but once your at running speed and especially into the powerband I dont think they help.
You guys converted a diesel to a petrol now with compression like that you can turn it into a diesel 😊
would love to see them take a old cam and do a diy cam grind on this engine
Rip block LOL 😂😂😂 valve springs chain tensioners lol 🤣 God im praying 🙏