GM used 3 different companies to make injectors and ignition coils. At 400,000 trucks, vans alone, X8 = over 3 million to fulfill the order just for 2003. -AN 6 is able to provide enough volume for most engines. These fuel lines are 5/16" & 3/8" for using the AN Chart. I don't test Engines on dynamometers and compare HP to volume to keep from lean misfire. -AN 4 I believe is the standard size for return lines. Great video as I have always enjoyed the No "BS" conversation and parts suggestions that save money, considering Holley owns 80+ different companies including "Earls" AN fittings which is owned by Holley as well as 80+ other companies. The E-85 injector is good until 700-800 horse power, so twin turbo's, supercharger or all the above. Have someone spend you money on their services. Best of luck.
Question. I purchased one of those Holly intake units that has a build in return and pressure regulator. I plan to delete the fuel rail regulator with a kit. Can I just cap off the return at the line or do I need to change my rail’s to a returnless style?
@The Driveway Engineer excess my ignorance, but I didn't catch what the purpose was for the Russell part. Is it so you can do away with the factory fuel lines?
Yes sir, in a swap, you have four options. 1. Use the factory lines, or make lines with the factory fittings. Difficult, complicated, special fittings and tools. 2. Clamp a fuel injection rated hose to it. Sketchy, not super safe or secure. 3. Adapt the fittings to something common like I did here going to -6 AN. Simple, easy, kind of costly in adapters. 4. Cut the weird fittings off and somehow braze or weld more common fittings on, or flare the line for something normal. Way too much work for me lol.
Hey whats up JR. I got a question I’m using this fittings on my fuel rail am I suppose to just tide them by hand and they are good to go or I im suppose to use wrenches? I ask because is a little hard to fit wrenches in there thank you in advanced and keep up the good work bro
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yeah i try and try could not figure it out im like okay probable is just by hand and done 😂 i will try again thank you for the response bro
I really appreciate your videos. If return rails were to be added to a non return system, could the return be capped off until a line was eventually ran back to the tank?
Can that an adapter be used on the fuel line if the flare is at the very beginning of the fuel line, just like the fuel line you used on your other video? I’m trying to run the new fuel braided line from where the fuel filter used to be straight to the fuel rail.
Dave If I had a return rail assembly would I still need to use the fuel filter 33737? if so would I place it 2 feet from my main tank, I will be running 2 tanks. Thanks Greg
So for this system which i have on my 5.3LS/vortec, goin in my 84 cutlass , could i run the return line back to the tank via stock low pressure hose that use to feed mechanical fuel pump? might have to rearrrange them at the pickup probly? then i just need an in tank chemso fuel pump to push through a new feed line made out of new anc fuel line?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer THEN since i have a stock 84 carberator tank without baffles, i probly should never let fuel level below 1/4 to prevent starving pump ? OR since its in the tank pump, this shouldnt be a problem?
Okay major problem. My 5.3l block has a bolt sheared off where transmission mounts and couldn't get to it with a welder so I tried to drill for an easy out and broke a drill bit off in the bolt. Can the block be saved? Lol Wondering if it is too far gone, I can get it drilled and tapped? Also got a exhaust manifold bolt sheared off in 706 heads. Tried welder route and failed twice so tried easy out and got a good hole and good fit with easy out but it broke off when I started to get it to spin out. I'm throwing my hands up in the air. What would you do in this situation?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer that's what I was thinking. I only have 200 into it so not a huge loss but still blows lol if I pull it myself my local junkyard sells them for 235 complete
@@maxchurch2127 yeah, I mean, I'm never dishonest, but they're too common and cheap to throw good money after bad on. I'd just list it as what it is, stock 5.3,couple busted bolts, going different direction on my build. Let someone else be the hero.
Question... I get a boost referenced regulator adds fuel under boost but how do you know it is? I have a regulator that looks exactly the same on my little truck (stupid GM 5 cylinder), so if I go forced induction it would work?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer at the moment it is but only because I'm working on our van. As soon as it's fixed the truck will be the toy. I don't want to push 500hp+ (it'd be nice) I just want it to move a little bit easier. Stock was 220 flywheel, I'd like to see 250+ at the wheels.
GM used 3 different companies to make injectors and ignition coils. At 400,000 trucks, vans alone, X8 = over 3 million to fulfill the order just for 2003. -AN 6 is able to provide enough volume for most engines. These fuel lines are 5/16" & 3/8" for using the AN Chart.
I don't test Engines on dynamometers and compare HP to volume to keep from lean misfire. -AN 4 I believe is the standard size for return lines.
Great video as I have always enjoyed the No "BS" conversation and parts suggestions that save money, considering Holley owns 80+ different companies including "Earls" AN fittings which is owned by Holley as well as 80+ other companies. The E-85 injector is good until 700-800 horse power, so twin turbo's, supercharger or all the above. Have someone spend you money on their services. Best of luck.
thoroughly enjoy these short to the point episodes. Keeps the information overload down. As always THANKS.
More Great Info. Thanks for sharing.
Those tools are nice to have.
Question. I purchased one of those Holly intake units that has a build in return and pressure regulator.
I plan to delete the fuel rail regulator with a kit. Can I just cap off the return at the line or do I need to change my rail’s to a returnless style?
Thank you !!
Yee Yee....
Spoon fed. Thanks!
Helped soooo much
@The Driveway Engineer excess my ignorance, but I didn't catch what the purpose was for the Russell part. Is it so you can do away with the factory fuel lines?
Yes sir, in a swap, you have four options.
1. Use the factory lines, or make lines with the factory fittings. Difficult, complicated, special fittings and tools.
2. Clamp a fuel injection rated hose to it. Sketchy, not super safe or secure.
3. Adapt the fittings to something common like I did here going to -6 AN. Simple, easy, kind of costly in adapters.
4. Cut the weird fittings off and somehow braze or weld more common fittings on, or flare the line for something normal. Way too much work for me lol.
Hey whats up JR. I got a question I’m using this fittings on my fuel rail am I suppose to just tide them by hand and they are good to go or I im suppose to use wrenches? I ask because is a little hard to fit wrenches in there thank you in advanced and keep up the good work bro
It takes a wrench to get them tight enough, and it sucks to get one in there
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yeah i try and try could not figure it out im like okay probable is just by hand and done 😂 i will try again thank you for the response bro
I really appreciate your videos. If return rails were to be added to a non return system, could the return be capped off until a line was eventually ran back to the tank?
Yes you can do that
Can that an adapter be used on the fuel line if the flare is at the very beginning of the fuel line, just like the fuel line you used on your other video? I’m trying to run the new fuel braided line from where the fuel filter used to be straight to the fuel rail.
Yes, that will work fine
Dose any one know the part numbers for feed and return ptfe ones like these ?
Dave If I had a return rail assembly would I still need to use the fuel filter 33737? if so would I place it 2 feet from my main tank, I will be running 2 tanks. Thanks Greg
No, use one or the other, nothing wrong with returnless for NA
What did u do with the return?
I know this is a old video, but what is the device with the vacuum line on it? I shaved my intake and curious of what to do with it.
Fuel pressure regulator.
If i use the fuel rails with the built in fuel pressure regulator do i still have to run another fuel regulator??
I was curious of this question also
@@chriscalvert3948 did you figure it out?
So for this system which i have on my 5.3LS/vortec, goin in my 84 cutlass , could i run the return line back to the tank via stock low pressure hose that use to feed mechanical fuel pump?
might have to rearrrange them at the pickup probly?
then i just need an in tank chemso fuel pump to push through a new feed line made out of new anc fuel line?
Yes, exactly that
@@TheDrivewayEngineer THEN since i have a stock 84 carberator tank without baffles, i probly should never let fuel level below 1/4 to prevent starving pump ?
OR since its in the tank pump, this shouldnt be a problem?
are non flex fuel and flex fuel injectors the same besides flow rate? such as dimensions. looking for a bigger injector for my cammed 5.3
Yes, they fit the same physical space. The connector is different, they sell adapters, or you can splice your harness.
Where can i find that exact crossover tube ive looked everywhere
It's on every truck from 99-03
Okay major problem. My 5.3l block has a bolt sheared off where transmission mounts and couldn't get to it with a welder so I tried to drill for an easy out and broke a drill bit off in the bolt. Can the block be saved? Lol Wondering if it is too far gone, I can get it drilled and tapped? Also got a exhaust manifold bolt sheared off in 706 heads. Tried welder route and failed twice so tried easy out and got a good hole and good fit with easy out but it broke off when I started to get it to spin out. I'm throwing my hands up in the air. What would you do in this situation?
Punt it, is what I'd do, I can get another for 500 or less, and probably still sell that one for 500
@@TheDrivewayEngineer that's what I was thinking. I only have 200 into it so not a huge loss but still blows lol if I pull it myself my local junkyard sells them for 235 complete
@@maxchurch2127 yeah, I mean, I'm never dishonest, but they're too common and cheap to throw good money after bad on.
I'd just list it as what it is, stock 5.3,couple busted bolts, going different direction on my build. Let someone else be the hero.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer funny because I was thinking, man who would want this headache?! A hero exactly.
Can the truck fuel rails be used on the Forman ls2 intake?
That I do not know, probably, the crossover would probably stick up high
Question... I get a boost referenced regulator adds fuel under boost but how do you know it is? I have a regulator that looks exactly the same on my little truck (stupid GM 5 cylinder), so if I go forced induction it would work?
Because the vacuum line to the intake is the reference signal.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer good to know. Thanks! Idk if I want to drop in a V8 (which I really don't have the resources for) or just slap a turbo on it...
If it's your daily driver, don't do anything, just save up for something to beat on.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer at the moment it is but only because I'm working on our van. As soon as it's fixed the truck will be the toy. I don't want to push 500hp+ (it'd be nice) I just want it to move a little bit easier. Stock was 220 flywheel, I'd like to see 250+ at the wheels.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer from what I've been seeing a V8 swap mat be cheaper though
Does someone make a fitting like that for the return line?
Russell 644113
Can these fuel rails fit on TBSS/NBSS style intake ?
No way, not at all
So both lines are 3/8 to 6AN?
No. Return is 5/16" to 6AN.
No thanks Clay....