Good job getting the engine out. It’s always a stuck bolt or two that doubles the time required. The seat looks great but based on the way it seems you like things done , you’re not gonna be able to live with that seat cowl pad 😆
Here's another trick I've found. Get a set of straight-fluted easy-outs. The spriral fluted ones expand the remnants and tend to tighten them against the hole. The straight ones just bite the inner surface. Tap it in, try it, tap it in harder etc. They're easier to remove if they break too.
Here's a tip for you regarding the sprocket nut for next time. Use a larger zip wheel to cut off two crests of the nut. It will split in two when you try to torque it. This is a good method for when you have a flange and can't split the nut conventionally. Place the wheel as if you're slitting down the axis of the shaft (ie it would split the nut and shaft in two along the axis). Now move the zip wheel parallel to the axis and just beyond the major diameter of the threads. You have two choices, cut off the peak or cut off the flat. I prefer to cut off the peak. When you put a socket back on, it will either be loose or it will crack into two pieces.
With a bolt broken off with a bit of the shank protruding. It's a perfect opportunity to weld a nut on itand extract it. Just make sure it gets good and hot and remove it while it's hot. If the nut snaps off. Do it again. The heat will help brake the seal. Might have removed the subframe during the bolt extraction process. Could have allowed a bit more room on one side. Good luck. ✌️
Unfortunately the subframe cannot be removed until the headers are off. The subframe isn’t just on the right side, it also runs from the right side to the left side behind the headers. We sis wells to all the bolts multiple times and this one still snapped It’s all out now, I drilled it out 2 weeks ago. It was very badly seized in
@@true-moto-resto Got it. Thought it was a single rail section of frame. Years ago I modified GS700 frame to accept a GS1150 motor. You should have seen the arrangement I had for installing the engine. I had motor mount bolts about a foot and a half long one one side. The bolts (all thread) went through the frame completely. So when I picked it up. I could swing it in place and tilt it at any angle. I had less than a 1/8" to spare. I also installed a Suzuki RG500 gamma motor in a Honda NSR MC21 250 chassis (there's a video of it running). I'm here because I'm restoring a 90 GSX-R 1100 . I don't think I have any videos of the GS1150 rat bike. Cheers man. Sub on the way.
The colour of the seat material looks really nice. Sometimes using a pneumatic impact driver on the drive bolt needs several lengthy blasts to release it. I tried IPA and the Wintergreen oil 5 to 1 approx to soften some rubber inlets but it doesn’t seem to have worked?
Great perseverance on the donor bike. Re: bump pad...I can't see you being satisfied with that result. Maybe take it back to the buddy to rectify the issue or find someone else more qualified. If not fixed to your satisfaction, it will catch your eye every time you look at the bike. Thanks for posting your vids. Like button hit.
![[UNCUT]"ทนายตั้ม" แฉยับ! ความลับสวรรค์ ใครคือ "บิ๊กเทวดา" ของบอสพอล l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 15 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ru9fpSaUwdA/mqdefault.jpg)
Good decision with welding bolts and drilling enjoying the build
Thanks Allan
Good job getting the engine out. It’s always a stuck bolt or two that doubles the time required. The seat looks great but based on the way it seems you like things done , you’re not gonna be able to live with that seat cowl pad 😆
Thanks 👍
Here's another trick I've found. Get a set of straight-fluted easy-outs. The spriral fluted ones expand the remnants and tend to tighten them against the hole. The straight ones just bite the inner surface. Tap it in, try it, tap it in harder etc. They're easier to remove if they break too.
Thanks for that !!
It certainly is putting up a fight, just keep going.
I will, cheers
Here's a tip for you regarding the sprocket nut for next time. Use a larger zip wheel to cut off two crests of the nut. It will split in two when you try to torque it. This is a good method for when you have a flange and can't split the nut conventionally.
Place the wheel as if you're slitting down the axis of the shaft (ie it would split the nut and shaft in two along the axis). Now move the zip wheel parallel to the axis and just beyond the major diameter of the threads. You have two choices, cut off the peak or cut off the flat. I prefer to cut off the peak. When you put a socket back on, it will either be loose or it will crack into two pieces.
Great tip!! Much appreciated Lorne ! Thanks
With a bolt broken off with a bit of the shank protruding.
It's a perfect opportunity to weld a nut on itand extract it.
Just make sure it gets good and hot and remove it while it's hot.
If the nut snaps off. Do it again. The heat will help brake the seal.
Might have removed the subframe during the bolt extraction process. Could have allowed a bit more room on one side.
Good luck.
✌️
Unfortunately the subframe cannot be removed until the headers are off. The subframe isn’t just on the right side, it also runs from the right side to the left side behind the headers.
We sis wells to all the bolts multiple times and this one still snapped
It’s all out now, I drilled it out 2 weeks ago. It was very badly seized in
@@true-moto-resto
Got it.
Thought it was a single rail section of frame.
Years ago I modified GS700 frame to accept a GS1150 motor.
You should have seen the arrangement I had for installing the engine.
I had motor mount bolts about a foot and a half long one one side. The bolts (all thread) went through the frame completely. So when I picked it up. I could swing it in place and tilt it at any angle.
I had less than a 1/8" to spare.
I also installed a Suzuki RG500 gamma motor in a Honda NSR MC21 250 chassis (there's a video of it running).
I'm here because I'm restoring a 90 GSX-R 1100 . I don't think I have any videos of the GS1150 rat bike.
Cheers man.
Sub on the way.
@@franktaylor7617cheers Frank, best of luck with the 1100!
Hope the inside of the engine is not as troublesome as the outside of the engine , can't wait to see the engine goes into the GSXR frame .
It runs well, so it’s not coming apart
The colour of the seat material looks really nice.
Sometimes using a pneumatic impact driver on the drive bolt needs several lengthy blasts to release it.
I tried IPA and the Wintergreen oil 5 to 1 approx to soften some rubber inlets but it doesn’t seem to have worked?
Thanks Ian, I use 3 parts IPA to 1 part oil of winter green
I'm just putting a 12 bandit lump into a 750 slingshot frame.
Good luck
Great Minds !
No Part 13? Skipped straight from Part 12 where you applied the decals
Yes part 13 is there th-cam.com/video/FAxuWdWIE3g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HYB6FBJbf7s1Eg7N
Sorry but the seat wasn’t perfect , the bump pad was terrible knowing how you work on detail , don’t think you will be putting it on the bike.
Thanks for the comment . The seat looks really good, nicely heat stretched. The bum pad ….I’m not happy with
Great perseverance on the donor bike. Re: bump pad...I can't see you being satisfied with that result. Maybe take it back to the buddy to rectify the issue or find someone else more qualified. If not fixed to your satisfaction, it will catch your eye every time you look at the bike. Thanks for posting your vids. Like button hit.
Yea, I need to call the Upholstry guy back I think.