Wonderful video. Thank you so much. I now have the knowledge I need to attempt to clean my GSF600S carbs. Thank you for the warning about un-racking the carbs, I might have done that unknowingly. I appreciate people like you that share information and help their fellow enthusiasts. Be safe!
My 02 1200 has very similar issues, after watching your videos I'm more confident that I can get it running again after 2 years! Chasing vacuum lines and dirty carbs.
Thanks. Remember, everything is tied together, carb holders have to be good, vacuum lines as you said, valve clearance and synchronization, float levels spot on and surgically clean carb innards.
You know, after a year I'm leaking fuel between carb 2+3 (2 middle carbs) the 2 bottom ports pour fuel out like crazy, what am I missing? Even after Float adjustments.
I admire your patience with the owner. I would likely not be as understanding given what you said about them driving the gears into the ground simply because they couldn't get the reservoir cover off.
Absolutely fantastic vid my friend. You explained everything so clearly,I have learnt a lot this evening..Thanks I'm now looking for the rest of your content.👍🏻👈
Thanks. No, I am not a big Suzuki guy, don't know much about anything but the B12 here and only because I owned (this) one prior to selling and still working on it.
Nice job with explaining the carbs, and the reason for everything you've done. I'm an old school wrench myself and own a GSX-R 1100 with bst mikuni 36 ss carbs that I want to rebuild, could you do a show on these carbs please, my bike is a 1993 GSX-R 1100 wp model
Mister, your job is admirable. Hope you can help me. I have a katana 600 which the carbs looks pretty similar, i allready did a good and patient cleaning, adjust to 13 mm the floats, replace old petcock and i have and inline fillter, it idles the same as the one on the video at the beginning but in addition to that when driving on the hwy at a stable speed 70-80 it cut off and recover a while after? I dont see anything wrong with the carbs and i dont know what else to try. Thank you for your time
Vacuum actuated fuel valve should prevent carb overflow when engine is stopped. When engine is not running "No vacuum pulses to the fuel valve" there should be no fuel flow to carbs. If there is any excess fuel to a cylinder it is because of a fuel valve failure. A hydraulic causing a bent push rod can happen, This would have to be from a lot of liquid in a cylinder. Hopefully on the start you will notice if the starter motor does a pause or hard stop. During the crank cycle, hopefully when the exhaust valve opens during the crank it blows most of the liquid out of the cylinder. At any rate. Check your fuel valve setup to make sure it is working properly. These con rods are super strong and to bend one would take a lot for sure.
I think around 3. It was a long time ago. This had the Holeshot stage 2 kit, I went off the instructions but can't exactly remember. It depends upon your setup and jetting.
Great video. I have an 03 silver Bandit 12. I am considering a Holeshot stage 2 jet kit with the K&N dual oval filters and a timing advancer. Also a Gsxr intake cam. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
The dual oval filters that came with my Stage 2 kit, never fit right. There is some interference with the carb body back side, I cannot exactly remember, but after a short period of time, since they don't quite seat properly on the intake bell, the band clamp distorts them and they never go back on correctly. I eventually changed them to individual pods and it solved the problem. Talk to Dale about it, see what he says. Cheers.
Help.....on the back of the carb you have a clear pipe on fuel "T's" going in to 1 "T".. ....question ..where doe it connect to please... loving the lathe work on the aluminium T you made...tia
Those four are extensions for synchronization. It’s impossible to get to the vacuum ports with the carbs installed. In fact, the service manual says to remove the carbs to install the synchronizer hoses, then remove and reinstall the carbs again after it’s done. Those extensions are just capped off until they’re needed then recapped and zip tied out is the way. Any other hoses that aren’t fuel are either vents or vacuum for the fuel cock.
what in the heck is that little tool for pulling the needle seat? That was awesome! Those o rings always leak after a bit, and I hate yanking it out with pliers.
Motion Pro dowel pin puller set. www.motionpro.com/product/08-0604. Doesn't always fit between the float arms/stand-offs but, when it does, it works great. Those removable float valve seats are almost always 8mm and thus, the 8mm dowl pin tool works great for them.
Put the blood pressure tester arm sleeve in the "Folger's" container on Your bench there - or something suitable similar, and it will be safe from sharp edges and stuff.
That's a damned good idea. I have a larger one available right now in fact. Hopefully I can find a place to put that, I'm pretty full up right now with stuff and I purge regularly.
Yea, crap from the tank has plugged up the slow or pilot circuit. There's more to it than just that, however. I'd like you to watch this video from Jimbo at Superbike Surgery, Ltd. in the UK. He explains the tiny holes behind the throttle plate on the CV carbs that are fed off the pilot or slow circuit passageways and it will really help you understand why it's behaving the way it does when things are plugged up. th-cam.com/video/7SFTdb9b3dI/w-d-xo.html
I've got an 01 Suzuki GSF 600 and it's wanting to rev up and down about half throttle any help would be appreciated.iv pulled carbs off synchronized the carbs and its still not getting better I've cleaned them some and were clean for the most part.
Not understanding the symptoms please be a bit more clear, I can't tell if it won't rev above half throttle or it does itself ramp up and down. I can tell you, "most part" won't cut it. Carburetors are precision fuel metering instruments. They're either spotlessly clean with unobstructed jets which are 100% open, any rubber parts in good condition, fuel level control in good condition (floats) and an accurate fuel level (float level) in all carbs; or they're not. There is no middle-ground if you want them to run correctly.
You said something interesting about the air filter pods that you need to change the jet ?? I have a 2007 bandit 1200s I wanted to put pods on will this change the way the bike runs of I don't suit the carbs as well ????
Oh, yes definitely. The air-fuel ratio is engineered to mix properly with a certain amount of air coming in and a certain amount of exhaust, etc. You change the air side by removing the air box, you can usually keep the stock exhaust it'll handle it but the massively increased flow will be way too lean for the stock jets. If you want to hop up your Bandit, contact Dale at Holeshot Performance (www.holeshot.com) and you can go on his site and what you'd want is the Bandit Stage 2 kit, but check it out for yourself. His stage 1 kit retains the stock airbox with modifications and slightly increased jetting, but with his 5 degree ignition timing advancer and the Stage 2 kit, it'll light up that engine smartly.
Greeting! I'm asking for help. I have a 2001 Suzuki Inazuma 750. The motorcycle starts perfectly. Sometimes when driving, after 10 or 20, 30 kilometers of driving, it simply shuts off. It's like running out of gas. After about 10 minutes, it restarts without any problems. Any idea what this is about? Thank you in advance and best regards from Croatia.
If it shuts off suddenly and without warning, like a sputter or one or two cylinders dropping out as the fuel level reduces, it's electrical. If it does kind-of taper out and behave like fuel starvation, I'd check the tank venting, then fuel cock, fuel hoses, anything that could restrict flow over time. But again, if this thing just flat out shuts off without a hiccup, that's electrical and can be a challenge to diagnose. Simple stuff first. Check battery ground, main frame ground, and inspect the kill switch on the handlebar. Those switches in particular can get very fiddley due to corrosion, build resistance which gets worse over time and vibration, then a voltage drop causes shutdown. Ignition switch, also, can do this. If the simple stuff proves OK, it looks like that engine uses a pulse generator at the stator (crank position) and a cam position sensor to perform ignition firing duties. If it shuts off all of a sudden but restarts after it cools down, I'd be testing those sensors. If you can get it to fail at the time you can put a meter on the sensors as per whatever the service manual procedure is, that will help in the diagnosis. If everything tests good electrical, it'd be hard to say otherwise what the issue might be. But again, if it's electrical, always start at the basics. Cheers.
I’m not sure it was a kit from Holeshot. Just measure the inlet OD and then they’re easy to source by size. This bike is long gone or I’d measure it up for ya.
Basically, everything you saw in this video, if you watch the entire thing, applies to what is likely your running issue, at least in some degree. It's most likely a fueling issue due to partially clogged (in your case) slow (pilot) circuits and/or a vacuum leak, or air jets on the intake side of the carb which are plugged up. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL Hi I hope you are well, it was fuel contamination which means I need to replace my filler cap, it doesn't pop or die now and runs like a dream, many thanks for your input kind regards from old bag 👍
Hi! Please tell me how to buy online the special tool shown in the eighteenth minute - to remove the needle valve seat. I'm in Brazil, and I need this tool. I thank!
Motion Pro. It's sold all over the place. It's called a dowel pin pulling tool. www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Dowel-Pin-Puller/dp/B01IE4PC6A/ref=asc_df_B01IE4PC6A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804735743&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1361643291048523477&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012283&hvtargid=pla-570007026878&psc=1
@@MotoRestoFL . Hi! What is your name :-) ? Thank you for the kind reply! Unfortunately the US$ 72.99 shipping cost to Brazil is a bad joke. With an image of the tool in hand, I'll try to find someone who can do an imitation. I only need the smallest one, to remove needle valve seats. It was nice to discover your TH-cam channel. It is possible to learn a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Best wishes for health, peace and success.
Google that. Bandit stick coil. There’s full instructions on a forum. I don’t remember where. Wiring diagrams and parts. You need special connectors for the coils.
@@jameslundstrom22 not exactly. It’s still a wasted spark setup. I didn’t cut the factory wiring I cut the plugs off the coils and did the wiring from there to the sticks. You wire the stick coils in series 1-4 and 2-3 just like the factory coils are wired. That gives you the proper resistance the spark unit is looking for. That’s why you need a certain stick coil which has the proper individual resistance to match the OEM when the sticks are run in series. The forum instructions are pretty detailed if you find them.
PLEASE help. my 03 bandit 1200 with 14k miles is not running right. SOUNDS LIKE THE ENGINE IS CATCHING/almost stopping on something when I slowly add rews. Also sounds like vacuum leak when trying to ride/open throttle more (but its not), runs rough like some cylinders not firing, noisy. I sold my previous bandit 1200 for that same sudden issue I can't figure out. bought another bandit 1200, now same issue. tested compression 145 on all 4. cleaned carbs (except for the adjuster screws), replaced little vacuum rubber plugs, adjusted valve clearance, replaced plugs (autolites), checked/reset cam chain tensioner (it has 1/3 life left), checked vacuum lines and carb boots with starting fluid (they're good) THANK YOU. I can't figure it out for the life of me. Note: I used Rotella t6 diesel oil instead of motorcycle oil in both of my bikes.
I need to know more. Stock air box or pods? What air screw wasn’t cleaned? Did you properly set float level? It’s real critical in that set of carbs, won’t run right unless the fuel level in each carb is spot on correct. Send me a video of it running. Motorestofl@gmail.com. I’m on vacation at the moment but I’ll try and watch and reply if signal allows.
@@MotoRestoFL I made a video of my bike...and found out that 2nd exhaust pipe temp is 85 degrees, while all other exhaust pipes are at 130 degrees. replaced spark plug, no diff. could the coil be partially bad only for the #2 cylinder, but still work on #1 cylinder OR do you think the spark plug metal wire got disconnected (uncrimped) from inside the rubber boot on #2 cyl only? checked compression on that #2 cylinder to be 163 psi similar to other cylinders (new bikes have 175 psi).
@@nadakeenr7715 1 and 4 are companion cylinders as is 2 and 3 for coils, for that wasted spark system, not 1-2 and 3-4. So, assuming you did have a bad spark condition on #2 due to a coil, #3 would likely be affected, assuming the high tension leads are intact. Doubtful the coil would be bad only on once cylinder. Indeed, you could have a bad high tension spark plug wire, but you'll have to figure that out (see below). What you need to do is get it idling and carefully, with an insulated tool or heavy gloves, pop off each spark plug lead one at a time, if #2 doesn't cause any substantial drop in RPM or make the thing stumble, you have problems most likely with carburation, with that good compression it's not a dead hole for sure. Swap #2 and #3 leads if they'll reach and see if the problem moves to #3. I bet it won't. Especially if you do the above test and only #2 has no change when you pull off the plug wire, it's highly likely not ignition, but carburetion. Cleaning carbs is a science, you have to clean every spec of crud out of every orifice or pathway. Again, I'd go with carbs but do the tests and see. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL I will do that. also, it backfires into the airbox a little. I guess, since the carbs just got a thorough cleaning, and the issue happened suddenly..not over time, I was rulling out the carbs. I think it has to do with bad ignition ... overflooding #2 since there is only partial spark (hence the wet plug), and backfiring into airbox. if the coil is good, the wire from the coil going to #2 may be bad. I tried removing #2 wire...no difference to how it runs. so indeed it doesnt spark right....if it was the carbs, removing the spark wire would still make some difference
@@nadakeenr7715 if the fuel is an issue on #2, the spark removal would likewise do nothing. Work the problem down from what you know to what is questionable. If you know the plug lead is bad fix that. May still be fuel related especially if your float levels are way off.
@@bigmuller1 there are no vacuum advances on these Japanese motorcycles. Carbureted use mechanical advancers in the old ones and throttle pos. sensors (like this one has) to tell the ignition to advance a specific amount. FI bikes do their own thing solely from sensors and ECU strategy. To have the Holeshot or other Stages jetting kit installed it must use the 5 degree advancer which sets the timing that far ahead in the first place. Again, that's why this bike has a TPS, it works in tandem with the (somewhat primitive) spark controller/ignition controller to provide that.
@@bigmuller1 I am aware of that. You wrote '"vacuum advance." That's an ignition timing thing. The fuel cock/switch/faucet whatever one wants to call it, is indeed vacuum actuated and often fails to great detriment.
Get yourself a factory service manual. The wiring diagrams for this bike are good if the quality of the manual has good resolution. Has the ignition switch been changed out with an aftermarket? The OEM has a resistor of some value that the ignition module needs to see that voltage or it won’t run.
@@MotoRestoFL yes the ignition switch is an after market but I use a screw driver turn turn the bike over by the starter I tried starting it we put all new fluids in it but still nothing I'm thinking it's a wiring issue or a fuse but I'm not sure
@@juice1419 it won’t fire that way without the ignition switch on. Doesn’t matter how the starter is energized. So it’s likely your ignition switch. Must be an OEM. Again it has some sort of resistor in the switch. Source out a switch on eBay. May be available new.
@@MotoRestoFL I need to educate myself on this😂 bcuz the ignition Dosnt work when it's on the on position it only works when I turn the key the other way and the dash lights up but when I slightly move the ignition it turns off like it has little to no power it's some complicated shit I'm not sure how to figure out
God damed Suzuki's vacuum petcocks that you can't turn off. On res prime wtf. And gas with 10% ethanol and the needle valves that you have to replace every 5-7000 miles. Got 94 750 GSXR same petcock I filled it parked in the garage ready for school college next morning came out tank was empty not very much gas on the floor. Gallatin in the pipe going thing I didn't start it guys bdc were full gas cleaned it up new oil filter in line shut off till I could replace the needles. Drove it for 2 More season didn't have the snap it had. Start rev to red line sounded fine did a compression test 60 on all cylinders. So I found the same motor your working on right now in the frame Oem petcock was interfered with motor moved it replaced Harley in filter on of reserve. Had this motor 3 seasons if I parked did something didn't turn the petcock off I notice oil level rise.these carbs don't have over flow needles leak right into cly wash the rings. Did compression on the 1200 90 on 3 100 on 4. That petcock need a in line filter no ethanol save yourself lot a headache.
I don’t know about these Mikuni’s but I know for sure the Mikuni’s from the Concours 1000 had float bowls where there was a spot and internal clearance to install overflow tubes. I haven’t done any to carbs which didn’t already have them (repairs) and this Bandit is long gone. But that’s the ultimate solution, to install overflow tubes. I have a milling machine now that works make that fairly easy.
@@MotoRestoFL That must be nice to have. The 750 in the corner I blew it part the 1200 have to pull the motor just to valve job. did the compression before I pulled it was going to leave on the bench because .I bought a 2001 bandit 1200 s at this used car dealer was trade in from the original buyer. 2033 miles stored inside it's whole life 2 brothers carbon fiber can carbon fiber all over. Asking 4000 4500 with tax I owe 789.82 I'm Ridding it. I just got laid off for a month. So horny to ride stuck the low compression 1200 was about to syndrome the carbs. Had nasty oil leek I reused valve cover oil o rings. I got to wait a month. But then I'll have $ to fix the other two motors ones going back in the bike Ones going in a 40.00 rat rod Karmin gia I paid for been sitting in the garage for 3 years. Do chain drive no reverse on the cheep it's a rust bucket.
I'm not decent either, currently, not wearing any pants. lol.. my recommendation is to do what you can to fix it yourself if that's an option, obviously you need a place to do that and tools. Otherwise, keep looking around. Unfortunately, fewer and fewer carb guys out there. Cheers.
Wonderful video. Thank you so much. I now have the knowledge I need to attempt to clean my GSF600S carbs. Thank you for the warning about un-racking the carbs, I might have done that unknowingly. I appreciate people like you that share information and help their fellow enthusiasts. Be safe!
Sometimes it’s necessary; if not, best to leave sleeping dogs lie. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I dont think that it was to long . You have to get your point across . Perfect 👍👍👍👍
Great video and with lots of applicable stuff for me as a '99 Bandit 1200 owner. Thanks for sharing!
My 02 1200 has very similar issues, after watching your videos I'm more confident that I can get it running again after 2 years! Chasing vacuum lines and dirty carbs.
Thanks. Remember, everything is tied together, carb holders have to be good, vacuum lines as you said, valve clearance and synchronization, float levels spot on and surgically clean carb innards.
You know, after a year I'm leaking fuel between carb 2+3 (2 middle carbs) the 2 bottom ports pour fuel out like crazy, what am I missing? Even after Float adjustments.
@@02Kracken Sorry I can´t help you. Just wanted to ask if you have found the problem.
@@ThePahan007t barb replacement and proper cleaning
REALLY GOOD!!! Man you are good and that guy is lucky to have you to hep. Thanks Mr. PRO.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I admire your patience with the owner. I would likely not be as understanding given what you said about them driving the gears into the ground simply because they couldn't get the reservoir cover off.
Absolutely fantastic vid my friend. You explained everything so clearly,I have learnt a lot this evening..Thanks I'm now looking for the rest of your content.👍🏻👈
Thanks for watching and kind words.
Excellent course, kyosunim! Thank you!
I do all my carbs the same way! Wow! Cb900f, fjr 1000 now im looking at a 96 gsxr 1100 any quirks on these needs a timing chain, nice work!❤
Thanks. No, I am not a big Suzuki guy, don't know much about anything but the B12 here and only because I owned (this) one prior to selling and still working on it.
Great vid, the key thing is all bandits you need to push up then round to start
Nice job with explaining the carbs, and the reason for everything you've done. I'm an old school wrench myself and own a GSX-R 1100 with bst mikuni 36 ss carbs that I want to rebuild, could you do a show on these carbs please, my bike is a 1993 GSX-R 1100 wp model
I don’t have a set but if one comes in I sure will. Thanks.
@@MotoRestoFLthe 89-92 have the same carb my bandit 1200 01 is an Mikuni BSR36
Correct me if I’m wrong?!
@@BIKELIFEAP I honestly don’t remember that bike is long long gone but that sounds right. Cheers.
Exellent mechanic, well done
Mister, your job is admirable. Hope you can help me. I have a katana 600 which the carbs looks pretty similar, i allready did a good and patient cleaning, adjust to 13 mm the floats, replace old petcock and i have and inline fillter, it idles the same as the one on the video at the beginning but in addition to that when driving on the hwy at a stable speed 70-80 it cut off and recover a while after? I dont see anything wrong with the carbs and i dont know what else to try. Thank you for your time
Vacuum actuated fuel valve should prevent carb overflow when engine is stopped. When engine is not running "No vacuum pulses to the fuel valve" there should be no fuel flow to carbs. If there is any excess fuel to a cylinder it is because of a fuel valve failure. A hydraulic causing a bent push rod can happen, This would have to be from a lot of liquid in a cylinder. Hopefully on the start you will notice if the starter motor does a pause or hard stop. During the crank cycle, hopefully when the exhaust valve opens during the crank it blows most of the liquid out of the cylinder. At any rate. Check your fuel valve setup to make sure it is working properly. These con rods are super strong and to bend one would take a lot for sure.
Vacuum petcocks fail all the time allowing fuel to flow constantly
Will a bad oil pressure sensor cause a no start
Good video thank u ,what is the air fuel mix screw positions ( how many turn outs from full in per carb)?
I think around 3. It was a long time ago. This had the Holeshot stage 2 kit, I went off the instructions but can't exactly remember. It depends upon your setup and jetting.
Great video. I have an 03 silver Bandit 12. I am considering a Holeshot stage 2 jet kit with the K&N dual oval filters and a timing advancer. Also a Gsxr intake cam. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
The dual oval filters that came with my Stage 2 kit, never fit right. There is some interference with the carb body back side, I cannot exactly remember, but after a short period of time, since they don't quite seat properly on the intake bell, the band clamp distorts them and they never go back on correctly. I eventually changed them to individual pods and it solved the problem. Talk to Dale about it, see what he says. Cheers.
Help.....on the back of the carb you have a clear pipe on fuel "T's" going in to 1 "T".. ....question ..where doe it connect to please... loving the lathe work on the aluminium T you made...tia
Those four are extensions for synchronization. It’s impossible to get to the vacuum ports with the carbs installed. In fact, the service manual says to remove the carbs to install the synchronizer hoses, then remove and reinstall the carbs again after it’s done. Those extensions are just capped off until they’re needed then recapped and zip tied out is the way. Any other hoses that aren’t fuel are either vents or vacuum for the fuel cock.
@@MotoRestoFL great idea thanks for sharing
what in the heck is that little tool for pulling the needle seat? That was awesome! Those o rings always leak after a bit, and I hate yanking it out with pliers.
Motion Pro dowel pin puller set. www.motionpro.com/product/08-0604. Doesn't always fit between the float arms/stand-offs but, when it does, it works great. Those removable float valve seats are almost always 8mm and thus, the 8mm dowl pin tool works great for them.
Put the blood pressure tester arm sleeve in the "Folger's" container on Your bench there - or something suitable similar, and it will be safe from sharp edges and stuff.
That's a damned good idea. I have a larger one available right now in fact. Hopefully I can find a place to put that, I'm pretty full up right now with stuff and I purge regularly.
Went to ride mine today, the same issue. On choke it runs. I take the choke off it stops, oh joy. Yesterday it was 100%
Yea, crap from the tank has plugged up the slow or pilot circuit. There's more to it than just that, however. I'd like you to watch this video from Jimbo at Superbike Surgery, Ltd. in the UK. He explains the tiny holes behind the throttle plate on the CV carbs that are fed off the pilot or slow circuit passageways and it will really help you understand why it's behaving the way it does when things are plugged up. th-cam.com/video/7SFTdb9b3dI/w-d-xo.html
@@MotoRestoFL I will. Oh, I've already seen this one.
I've got an 01 Suzuki GSF 600 and it's wanting to rev up and down about half throttle any help would be appreciated.iv pulled carbs off synchronized the carbs and its still not getting better I've cleaned them some and were clean for the most part.
Not understanding the symptoms please be a bit more clear, I can't tell if it won't rev above half throttle or it does itself ramp up and down. I can tell you, "most part" won't cut it. Carburetors are precision fuel metering instruments. They're either spotlessly clean with unobstructed jets which are 100% open, any rubber parts in good condition, fuel level control in good condition (floats) and an accurate fuel level (float level) in all carbs; or they're not. There is no middle-ground if you want them to run correctly.
Where does the breather hose from carburator connect to?
Nowhere. They are just flapping in the breeze as the saying goes.
You said something interesting about the air filter pods that you need to change the jet ?? I have a 2007 bandit 1200s I wanted to put pods on will this change the way the bike runs of I don't suit the carbs as well ????
Oh, yes definitely. The air-fuel ratio is engineered to mix properly with a certain amount of air coming in and a certain amount of exhaust, etc. You change the air side by removing the air box, you can usually keep the stock exhaust it'll handle it but the massively increased flow will be way too lean for the stock jets. If you want to hop up your Bandit, contact Dale at Holeshot Performance (www.holeshot.com) and you can go on his site and what you'd want is the Bandit Stage 2 kit, but check it out for yourself. His stage 1 kit retains the stock airbox with modifications and slightly increased jetting, but with his 5 degree ignition timing advancer and the Stage 2 kit, it'll light up that engine smartly.
@@MotoRestoFL thankyou very much for the reply its really appreciated I have a yoshi tri oval pipe on it as well so could go for stage 2 kit correct??
I would imagine so, but I'm unfamiliar with the different aftermarket pipes, frankly.
Nice job
Thanks.
Greeting! I'm asking for help. I have a 2001 Suzuki Inazuma 750. The motorcycle starts perfectly. Sometimes when driving, after 10 or 20, 30 kilometers of driving, it simply shuts off. It's like running out of gas. After about 10 minutes, it restarts without any problems. Any idea what this is about? Thank you in advance and best regards from Croatia.
If it shuts off suddenly and without warning, like a sputter or one or two cylinders dropping out as the fuel level reduces, it's electrical. If it does kind-of taper out and behave like fuel starvation, I'd check the tank venting, then fuel cock, fuel hoses, anything that could restrict flow over time. But again, if this thing just flat out shuts off without a hiccup, that's electrical and can be a challenge to diagnose. Simple stuff first. Check battery ground, main frame ground, and inspect the kill switch on the handlebar. Those switches in particular can get very fiddley due to corrosion, build resistance which gets worse over time and vibration, then a voltage drop causes shutdown. Ignition switch, also, can do this. If the simple stuff proves OK, it looks like that engine uses a pulse generator at the stator (crank position) and a cam position sensor to perform ignition firing duties. If it shuts off all of a sudden but restarts after it cools down, I'd be testing those sensors. If you can get it to fail at the time you can put a meter on the sensors as per whatever the service manual procedure is, that will help in the diagnosis. If everything tests good electrical, it'd be hard to say otherwise what the issue might be. But again, if it's electrical, always start at the basics. Cheers.
Where are you located in Florida I need some work on my 1200 bandit
Bradenton. Email me, motorestofl@gmail.com. It’s gonna be awhile I’m stacked up.
What size are the carb air filters?
I’m not sure it was a kit from Holeshot. Just measure the inlet OD and then they’re easy to source by size. This bike is long gone or I’d measure it up for ya.
I have a 1200 2005 and It idles ok but as soon as I apply the throttle it cuts out, any ideas
Basically, everything you saw in this video, if you watch the entire thing, applies to what is likely your running issue, at least in some degree. It's most likely a fueling issue due to partially clogged (in your case) slow (pilot) circuits and/or a vacuum leak, or air jets on the intake side of the carb which are plugged up. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL thank you very much for your input mate 👍
@@MotoRestoFL Hi I hope you are well, it was fuel contamination which means I need to replace my filler cap, it doesn't pop or die now and runs like a dream, many thanks for your input kind regards from old bag 👍
I have a Suzuki bandit that I am having problems with not starting. Where is your shop can I bring my bike to you?
Bradenton, Florida. Yes. Just email me, motorestofl@gmail.com. Which Bandit? 600 or the 1200 like this one?
Hi! Please tell me how to buy online the special tool shown in the eighteenth minute - to remove the needle valve seat. I'm in Brazil, and I need this tool. I thank!
Motion Pro. It's sold all over the place. It's called a dowel pin pulling tool. www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Dowel-Pin-Puller/dp/B01IE4PC6A/ref=asc_df_B01IE4PC6A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309804735743&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1361643291048523477&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012283&hvtargid=pla-570007026878&psc=1
@@MotoRestoFL . Hi! What is your name :-) ?
Thank you for the kind reply! Unfortunately the US$ 72.99 shipping cost to Brazil is a bad joke. With an image of the tool in hand, I'll try to find someone who can do an imitation. I only need the smallest one, to remove needle valve seats.
It was nice to discover your TH-cam channel. It is possible to learn a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Best wishes for health, peace and success.
Any tips on doing the stick coil conversion?
Google that. Bandit stick coil. There’s full instructions on a forum. I don’t remember where. Wiring diagrams and parts. You need special connectors for the coils.
@MotoResto Florida thank you for responding. Actually in the middle reading a forum now
Seems like you basically splice into the factory wiring for the coils and make it work for 4 individual coils
@@jameslundstrom22 not exactly. It’s still a wasted spark setup. I didn’t cut the factory wiring I cut the plugs off the coils and did the wiring from there to the sticks. You wire the stick coils in series 1-4 and 2-3 just like the factory coils are wired. That gives you the proper resistance the spark unit is looking for. That’s why you need a certain stick coil which has the proper individual resistance to match the OEM when the sticks are run in series. The forum instructions are pretty detailed if you find them.
Mister, where does the biggest jets goes on, mean jet or enricher ?
Main jet. The main will always be bigger than the enricher jet.
Good
PLEASE help. my 03 bandit 1200 with 14k miles is not running right. SOUNDS LIKE THE ENGINE IS CATCHING/almost stopping on something when I slowly add rews. Also sounds like vacuum leak when trying to ride/open throttle more (but its not), runs rough like some cylinders not firing, noisy. I sold my previous bandit 1200 for that same sudden issue I can't figure out. bought another bandit 1200, now same issue. tested compression 145 on all 4. cleaned carbs (except for the adjuster screws), replaced little vacuum rubber plugs, adjusted valve clearance, replaced plugs (autolites), checked/reset cam chain tensioner (it has 1/3 life left), checked vacuum lines and carb boots with starting fluid (they're good) THANK YOU. I can't figure it out for the life of me. Note: I used Rotella t6 diesel oil instead of motorcycle oil in both of my bikes.
I need to know more. Stock air box or pods? What air screw wasn’t cleaned? Did you properly set float level? It’s real critical in that set of carbs, won’t run right unless the fuel level in each carb is spot on correct. Send me a video of it running. Motorestofl@gmail.com. I’m on vacation at the moment but I’ll try and watch and reply if signal allows.
@@MotoRestoFL I made a video of my bike...and found out that 2nd exhaust pipe temp is 85 degrees, while all other exhaust pipes are at 130 degrees. replaced spark plug, no diff. could the coil be partially bad only for the #2 cylinder, but still work on #1 cylinder OR do you think the spark plug metal wire got disconnected (uncrimped) from inside the rubber boot on #2 cyl only? checked compression on that #2 cylinder to be 163 psi similar to other cylinders (new bikes have 175 psi).
@@nadakeenr7715 1 and 4 are companion cylinders as is 2 and 3 for coils, for that wasted spark system, not 1-2 and 3-4. So, assuming you did have a bad spark condition on #2 due to a coil, #3 would likely be affected, assuming the high tension leads are intact. Doubtful the coil would be bad only on once cylinder. Indeed, you could have a bad high tension spark plug wire, but you'll have to figure that out (see below). What you need to do is get it idling and carefully, with an insulated tool or heavy gloves, pop off each spark plug lead one at a time, if #2 doesn't cause any substantial drop in RPM or make the thing stumble, you have problems most likely with carburation, with that good compression it's not a dead hole for sure. Swap #2 and #3 leads if they'll reach and see if the problem moves to #3. I bet it won't. Especially if you do the above test and only #2 has no change when you pull off the plug wire, it's highly likely not ignition, but carburetion. Cleaning carbs is a science, you have to clean every spec of crud out of every orifice or pathway. Again, I'd go with carbs but do the tests and see. Cheers.
@@MotoRestoFL I will do that. also, it backfires into the airbox a little. I guess, since the carbs just got a thorough cleaning, and the issue happened suddenly..not over time, I was rulling out the carbs. I think it has to do with bad ignition ... overflooding #2 since there is only partial spark (hence the wet plug), and backfiring into airbox. if the coil is good, the wire from the coil going to #2 may be bad. I tried removing #2 wire...no difference to how it runs. so indeed it doesnt spark right....if it was the carbs, removing the spark wire would still make some difference
@@nadakeenr7715 if the fuel is an issue on #2, the spark removal would likewise do nothing. Work the problem down from what you know to what is questionable. If you know the plug lead is bad fix that. May still be fuel related especially if your float levels are way off.
I have the stock airbox and my nr1 carburetor it backfires at idle for sure it's something nasty inside, pointless to say I hate carbs 😄
You’ll hate carbs less when your ECU takes a dump in an FI engine and it costs $1-2 grand for the module. 😲
That's because the vacuum advance is taken from that carb
@@bigmuller1 there are no vacuum advances on these Japanese motorcycles. Carbureted use mechanical advancers in the old ones and throttle pos. sensors (like this one has) to tell the ignition to advance a specific amount. FI bikes do their own thing solely from sensors and ECU strategy. To have the Holeshot or other Stages jetting kit installed it must use the 5 degree advancer which sets the timing that far ahead in the first place. Again, that's why this bike has a TPS, it works in tandem with the (somewhat primitive) spark controller/ignition controller to provide that.
@@MotoRestoFL it's taken off carb 1 ...1 goes to fuel tap vacuum. To make the fuel diaphragm open
@@bigmuller1 I am aware of that. You wrote '"vacuum advance." That's an ignition timing thing. The fuel cock/switch/faucet whatever one wants to call it, is indeed vacuum actuated and often fails to great detriment.
This is the yankee workshop for motorcycles! Gas monkey without the drama! They should play this stuff to all the kids in auto shop!
Norm has a nicer beard. 😜. Thanks.
👍👍
👍 back atcha. Thanks.
Where can a person buy that specialty socket? An internet search turned up nothing.
Which one? I made this video many months ago.
@@MotoRestoFL the 8mm socket you used to pull out the float valve with it's o-ring. Thanks!
@@williamfoster4268 no that’s a dowel pin remover not a socket. Pulls locating or dowel pins. Motion pro www.motionpro.com/product/08-0604
@@MotoRestoFL Thank you very much!
I just got this bike it won't start but it turns over and there is a bunch of wiring that needs to be done on it
Get yourself a factory service manual. The wiring diagrams for this bike are good if the quality of the manual has good resolution. Has the ignition switch been changed out with an aftermarket? The OEM has a resistor of some value that the ignition module needs to see that voltage or it won’t run.
@@MotoRestoFL yes the ignition switch is an after market but I use a screw driver turn turn the bike over by the starter I tried starting it we put all new fluids in it but still nothing I'm thinking it's a wiring issue or a fuse but I'm not sure
@@MotoRestoFL and also we have like 4 fuel lines that I have no idea where they go
@@juice1419 it won’t fire that way without the ignition switch on. Doesn’t matter how the starter is energized. So it’s likely your ignition switch. Must be an OEM. Again it has some sort of resistor in the switch. Source out a switch on eBay. May be available new.
@@MotoRestoFL I need to educate myself on this😂 bcuz the ignition Dosnt work when it's on the on position it only works when I turn the key the other way and the dash lights up but when I slightly move the ignition it turns off like it has little to no power it's some complicated shit I'm not sure how to figure out
Sounds like an ignition problem.
I add 2 stroke oil to my fuel on my bandit
Reason? do tell. I'm sure we'd all like to know.
God damed Suzuki's vacuum petcocks that you can't turn off. On res prime wtf. And gas with 10% ethanol and the needle valves that you have to replace every 5-7000 miles. Got 94 750 GSXR same petcock I filled it parked in the garage ready for school college next morning came out tank was empty not very much gas on the floor. Gallatin in the pipe going thing I didn't start it guys bdc were full gas cleaned it up new oil filter in line shut off till I could replace the needles. Drove it for 2 More season didn't have the snap it had. Start rev to red line sounded fine did a compression test 60 on all cylinders. So I found the same motor your working on right now in the frame Oem petcock was interfered with motor moved it replaced Harley in filter on of reserve. Had this motor 3 seasons if I parked did something didn't turn the petcock off I notice oil level rise.these carbs don't have over flow needles leak right into cly wash the rings. Did compression on the 1200 90 on 3 100 on 4. That petcock need a in line filter no ethanol save yourself lot a headache.
I don’t know about these Mikuni’s but I know for sure the Mikuni’s from the Concours 1000 had float bowls where there was a spot and internal clearance to install overflow tubes. I haven’t done any to carbs which didn’t already have them (repairs) and this Bandit is long gone. But that’s the ultimate solution, to install overflow tubes. I have a milling machine now that works make that fairly easy.
@@MotoRestoFL That must be nice to have. The 750 in the corner I blew it part the 1200 have to pull the motor just to valve job. did the compression before I pulled it was going to leave on the bench because .I bought a 2001 bandit 1200 s at this used car dealer was trade in from the original buyer. 2033 miles stored inside it's whole life 2 brothers carbon fiber can carbon fiber all over. Asking 4000 4500 with tax I owe 789.82 I'm Ridding it. I just got laid off for a month. So horny to ride stuck the low compression 1200 was about to syndrome the carbs. Had nasty oil leek I reused valve cover oil o rings. I got to wait a month. But then I'll have $ to fix the other two motors ones going back in the bike Ones going in a 40.00 rat rod Karmin gia I paid for been sitting in the garage for 3 years. Do chain drive no reverse on the cheep it's a rust bucket.
i cant find a decent mechanic who will work on mine. same year same model same problems
I'm not decent either, currently, not wearing any pants. lol.. my recommendation is to do what you can to fix it yourself if that's an option, obviously you need a place to do that and tools. Otherwise, keep looking around. Unfortunately, fewer and fewer carb guys out there. Cheers.
Essa moto nao presta nao
Esta bicicleta já se foi há muito tempo
The carbs are NOT pronounced MU-KE-NE ...... its MI- KU-NE
Thank you Captain Obvious.