Thank you for that very informative video and advice, I also have a 10 year Tormek that needs a new stone, so I will check everything for cracks before ordering new parts.
I took my T-3 apart today and re-lubricated the shaft with multi-purpose lube gel (the stuff they use on plastic gears). The metal shaft was in good shape but the plastic bushings were somewhat worn.
That’s a nice tool to have in the shop. Never had a wet stone before. I do have a 1940s Dunlap bench grinder that still works great. Over the winter I was looking for something to do so I cleaned it up and repainted it.
The Tormek is a very good sharpening system and I have a few of the jigs for it. I am disappointed with the issues I found. I wish I had paid the extra money and gone for a new one now. They are very expensive though! :-)
Thanks for the info. I didnt realize they went to plastic a blue plastic housing. I've got the tormek 2000. The housing is green metal. I've had it since the mid 90s. The leather finally peeled off the wheel so I'll replace it with an old belt. I thought the wheel would come right off but it's not budging. Now that I see how cracked yours is, I think I'll leave it mounted and work around it.. thanks again for posting ...
I would use vegetable tan leather. You can get hold of small pieces of it in various thicknesses from eBay or other suppliers online. I posted a video on here where I make a leather honing wheel using it. Only a suggestion. :-)
Thank you very much for your video. I was trying to remove the grinding wheel on my T-3 and it’s cemented to the spindle. I think I’ll just buy a new machine and give the old one to a colleague.
I think the newer t4 and the t8 with the zinc housing will be an improvement over plastic as far as durability and the casing not cracking. Also the new axle is stainless throughout, and nylon bearings should be durable. One thing I like is how simply the machine is made and how easy it is to take apart and maintain and what not. As for the plastic / rubber drive wheel, are those cracks or very fine molding marks, hard to tell from the vid, but I'll take your word for it.
you can always try to "drill stop" a crack, use a small 1,5mm up to 3mm drill and make a hole at the end of a crack, this will take up the stress and usually prevents further cracking ! thanks for sharing
I have a Supergrind 2000 that was not running true regardless of how many times I ran the trueing tool across the stone. I decided on a new shaft and, of course, ran into the problem of not being able to remove the stone from the shaft. The only remedy is to buy a new stone. I tried to fit the new bearings that were supplied with the new shaft but found that the diameter of the original shaft is a few thousands larger than the new one. It is also impossible to buy replacements for the original bearings, which would probably solve the problem. In conclusion, I am forced to buy a new wheel costing around £130.00 to go with the new shaft, costing around £50.00. So, I either spend the £180.00 or throw the machine away. It's annoying that a couple of plastic bearings could possibly fix the thing for a tenner. Lesson, don't invest in a Tormek and tell your friends.
Thanks for the vid. I have exactly the same problems with mine cracked housing, cracks on leather wheel, cant get the grind wheel off, washer seems fused to the wheel and or shaft and I can already see a crack in the stone itself and im worried that trying to remove the washer will split the wheel completely which is a shame because wheel hadnt done much work.
Why not try glueing some 1/4" metal strips over the cracks to mend the cracks and stop them propogating. In my work as a European Space Agency inspector I found that Araldite will stick to almost everything, but if you could get a small tube of Scotchweld that would be more vibration proof.
The thing is if you have not abused the machine , hit with hammer or dropped it. It should not crack. I have cheaper fly rods that have a better guarantee than these machines. I have the green Tormek, The continuous running one and the washers are completely trashed and heaven forbids what the shaft is like I have not checked it yet. But I would let it ly there than give them £64 for a replacement shaft it should be free to people who own these machines.
The one thing with my t4, the rubber drive wheel seems very sensitive to causing a wobble if it is not perfectly round, I haven't sanded mine yet, but will try because I've got a bit of a wobble. The motor drive shafts turn perfectly smooth, and the large axle is true as well, so I think the rubber wheel is uneven.
@@RussellPlatten lol. For the money they charge, and all the praise they give themselves as far as offering the best of the best, and how simple the darn thing is made, my brand new one shouldn't wobble and neither should yours. I just woke up, I tend to say what I think without putting icing on the cake.
Hi, I bought a used tormek 4: once I apply pressure, the grinding wheel stalls; I remove the blade that I am sharpening and the grinding wheels continues to spin. can you advise me how to correct the problem. thanks
There are several reasons that could be causing the issue David. The drive wheel could be worn. The tension on the motor shaft could be too low. You could be putting too much pressure on the stone. The motor could be faulty. I would strip the machine down and investigate the issue. :-)
Thanks for your assistance; one last question, the main shaft on my tormek 4 is in good condition but when I took it apart, the grinding stone is attached, I think you had a similar problem, How did you remove the stone from the main shaft. Thanks
@@davidruiz5383 I removed the shaft from the machine with the stone still attached and then hammered the shaft down through the stone with the nut in place to prevent damage to the thread. I used my lathe bed to rest the stone on and allow the shaft to be knocked out. The shaft thread was damaged slightly in the process and the corrosion on the shaft where the stone had been made it unuseable. That is why I purchased a new SS shaft. :-)
Hi, Russell, thank you for making this video available. Very informative. Quick question, if a stone chipped, how much would a chipped stone affect the sharpening process?
@@organogardener9210 In my opinion, if the blade you are sharpening is not bouncing up and down when the chip passes under it, it should be fine. Try sharpening something that is not important and see what results you get. Good luck! :-)
@@RussellPlatten Thank you. On a brandnew stone, does one need truing the sharpening surface before using it? I tried to use Tormek's truing tool to fix the chipped area, but it appears that the stone is uneven. Certain part of the stone come in contact with the tool, while other areas are not. This suggest that the stone may need to be trued for an even sharpening surface, what are your thought?
@@organogardener9210 It depends on whether the stone has a flat cross section. if you can lay a straight edge across the stone and see no light underneath, it should be ok. If it is not straight and has grooves or is worn down in the centre it should be dressed. Thee are only my opinions, others may give you different advice! :-)
hi, this question is totally off topic but what do you use the wheels on the left for. I'm looking for a sharpening system to sharpen the inside of a tantung copy lathe cutters (v gouge cutting tools)
The wheels on the left are leather and are designed to hone flat chisels, curved gouges and V gouges. The leather wheels for the gouges are an add on that is available for the Tormek sharpeners. :-)
I bought a second hand 1200 last year, and I'm pretty sure I'll have the same issues. I tried to move the stone but I can tell its rusted on. I've tried many times to level the stone but it never feels flush/circular, if that makes sense? Do you think the spindle is wonky ? Or bearings knackered?
Probably the bearings Tom. If you decide to do what I did, the new stainless spindle comes with two bearings. To remove the stone, take the honing wheel off and pull the spindle out through the housing. You will be able to remove the stone, but will probably damage the spindle. I used a thicker nut on the thread next to the stone and knocked the shaft out with a lot of effort. I used my lathe bed to hold the stone with the spindle between the rails. Even with the thicker nut, the thread was damaged. I reckon you will need a new spindle no matter what you do. Check to make sure your housing is not damaged. :-)
I bought a new T4 and an almost new 1200 Supergrind without water bowl for €146 .... I have the Japanese stone extra. Immediately also ordered a new ash, water bowl for the 1200.''''I think 146 € for a second hand with a stone that is still 20 cm = little used ... was a good buy. Now I can sharpen on the 1200 and polish on the T4 with the Japan SJ 200 stone
@@RussellPlatten Thx, Ich habe schon eine Haube in meinem normalen und japanischen Stein gemacht....also glatt mit dem tt50......Ich denke, ich werde meine Messer mit dem Draht schärfen, weil ich meine Steine misshandele! und das Messer zerschellt in der Stein.....Ich habe meinen japanischen Stein auf die 1200 gelegt....Dieser läuft etwas langsamer als der T4.Sehr zufrieden mit beiden Maschinen Vielleicht kannst du damit die Risse verstärken : vor dem weiteren Platzen: Quiksteel 16402 Aluminiumverstärkter Epoxidspachtel, 2 oz by amazon
I see your honing wheel wobbles too, mine does also and I've been trying to fix this, if not I'm going to have to turn a new wheel on the lathe because fuck paying £50 for a plastic disk! The old shafts for these were quite terrible in that they were plated steel, not pure stainless, for cost reasons but, it's not a /great/ deal of stainless steel really, pretty sure they set these up to need replacing to make the £50 later. The cracking too is unbelievable! Epoxy will sort that though no problem. Plastic bearings too. I'm looking at finding some sealed bearings of the right inner diameter and fixing them to the chassis somehow because even new plastic bearings have about 0.5mm play in them (measured with a dial test indicator). Supposed to be the best but I don't see any reason why they can't solve these problems at the design stage.
Make that £63 for a new drive wheel. What are they plaaaaaaying at. About 20p worth of cast aluminium and a bit of rubber. Could be swedish taxes driving their costs up, who knows.
I agree, they charge extortionate prices for everything. There is no doubt that Tormek gear is very good, but who in their right mind would place a steel shaft on a system that runs in water, especially when the stone will keep that water concentrated there long after it is turned off. I think that they rely on professionals persuading the rest of us that we will not get good results with anything else. Personally this repair has left a bad taste in my mouth! :-)
I have found the same problem on my 20 year old machine, and I don't know how to get the old shaft out, if I am able to do so where can I get a new spindle from?
Hi Martin. To remove the shaft you should take the leather honing heel off and pull the shaft out from the grinding wheel end. The new shaft comes with new nylon bearings. I found my replacement online after searching for Tormek 2000 replacement shaft. :-)
@@RussellPlatten Thanks Russell, I really could not have done it without you, I was trying to bash the shaft through from the grinding wheel end, but from the strop end very easy, but it really is a disgrace for Tormek to have made such a poor bit of engineering, especially at the prices they charge.
I agree it is a disgrace, Tormek will have been well aware of the fact that the shaft would rust at the stone and were obviously not bothered. I think they were thinking that owners would just buy a new machine and they would make more money. I have to say that their gear is exceptional, but I feel cheated a little by my experience with the 1200. There is no issue with the newer models as these have stainless steel shafts as standard. Mind you, once you replace your shaft and stone your Tormek will be as good as new! :-)
Spend a few bucks on a good epoxy. Stop drill the cracks at the ends, then epoxy the cracks You replaced the wearable bearings and shaft, should run great now.
Used it for ten years and you're disappointed. In today's day and age you're lucky if things last ten months. The grinder shaft is bathed in water. Was it a surprise the shaft was rusted? Even stainless will rust. It's not rust proof, it's stainLESS steel. Try a dab of anti seize in the future on any threads and the plastic case is easily repaired with a soldering tool and plastic zip ties. A new T8 is around $900
Thank you for that very informative video and advice, I also have a 10 year Tormek that needs a new stone, so I will check everything for cracks before ordering new parts.
:-)
i recommend this channel to my dad and gladly he said your channel is very interesting to watch. so keep up the good work sir😊
Thank you for that. Thank your Dad too. :-)
Thanks Russel I won't even try to get the old stone off. I will buy a new spindle and wheel. You saved me several hours I think Paul
Glad I could help Paul. I wish I had known before I started! :-)
I took my T-3 apart today and re-lubricated the shaft with multi-purpose lube gel (the stuff they use on plastic gears). The metal shaft was in good shape but the plastic bushings were somewhat worn.
You can get hold of new bushings Dave. :-)
That’s a nice tool to have in the shop. Never had a wet stone before. I do have a 1940s Dunlap bench grinder that still works great. Over the winter I was looking for something to do so I cleaned it up and repainted it.
The Tormek is a very good sharpening system and I have a few of the jigs for it. I am disappointed with the issues I found. I wish I had paid the extra money and gone for a new one now. They are very expensive though! :-)
An excellent video as it answered all the questions I had about replacing the Tormek main shaft. Thank you so much, and Happy New Year!
Thank you. Happy New Year to you and yours too! :-)
That's quite a rare last name. I'm glad to share it with you, sir.
It is not common. :-)
Thanks for the info. I didnt realize they went to plastic a blue plastic housing. I've got the tormek 2000. The housing is green metal. I've had it since the mid 90s. The leather finally peeled off the wheel so I'll replace it with an old belt. I thought the wheel would come right off but it's not budging. Now that I see how cracked yours is, I think I'll leave it mounted and work around it.. thanks again for posting ...
I would use vegetable tan leather. You can get hold of small pieces of it in various thicknesses from eBay or other suppliers online. I posted a video on here where I make a leather honing wheel using it. Only a suggestion. :-)
Thank you very much for your video. I was trying to remove the grinding wheel on my T-3 and it’s cemented to the spindle. I think I’ll just buy a new machine and give the old one to a colleague.
I would do the same if I was in your shoes. :-)
I think the newer t4 and the t8 with the zinc housing will be an improvement over plastic as far as durability and the casing not cracking. Also the new axle is stainless throughout, and nylon bearings should be durable. One thing I like is how simply the machine is made and how easy it is to take apart and maintain and what not. As for the plastic / rubber drive wheel, are those cracks or very fine molding marks, hard to tell from the vid, but I'll take your word for it.
Yes, the newer machines address the issues I found with mine Shawn! :-)
you can always try to "drill stop" a crack, use a small 1,5mm up to 3mm drill and make a hole at the end of a crack, this will take up the stress and usually prevents further cracking ! thanks for sharing
Cheers Michel. :-)
I have a Supergrind 2000 that was not running true regardless of how many times I ran the trueing tool across the stone. I decided on a new shaft and, of course, ran into the problem of not being able to remove the stone from the shaft. The only remedy is to buy a new stone. I tried to fit the new bearings that were supplied with the new shaft but found that the diameter of the original shaft is a few thousands larger than the new one. It is also impossible to buy replacements for the original bearings, which would probably solve the problem. In conclusion, I am forced to buy a new wheel costing around £130.00 to go with the new shaft, costing around £50.00. So, I either spend the £180.00 or throw the machine away. It's annoying that a couple of plastic bearings could possibly fix the thing for a tenner. Lesson, don't invest in a Tormek and tell your friends.
Thanks for the vid. I have exactly the same problems with mine cracked housing, cracks on leather wheel, cant get the grind wheel off, washer seems fused to the wheel and or shaft and I can already see a crack in the stone itself and im worried that trying to remove the washer will split the wheel completely which is a shame because wheel hadnt done much work.
A very poor design. Good luck with your endeavours! :-)
Hi, first great video. I bought a used T4 and want to clean it before using. Did you lubricate the spindle. Thanks
No I did not David. :-)
Thanks
Why not try glueing some 1/4" metal strips over the cracks to mend the cracks and stop them propogating. In my work as a European Space Agency inspector I found that Araldite will stick to almost everything, but if you could get a small tube of Scotchweld that would be more vibration proof.
Thanks for that Paul. I will have a look at both of those options. :-)
The thing is if you have not abused the machine , hit with hammer or dropped it. It should not crack. I have cheaper fly rods that have a better guarantee than these machines. I have the green Tormek, The continuous running one and the washers are completely trashed and heaven forbids what the shaft is like I have not checked it yet. But I would let it ly there than give them £64 for a replacement shaft it should be free to people who own these machines.
how did you remove the old shaft from the grinding wheel, have the same problem as you. I have the shaft stuck to the grinding wheel. thanks
I would just get a replacement shaft and stone David. :-)
The one thing with my t4, the rubber drive wheel seems very sensitive to causing a wobble if it is not perfectly round, I haven't sanded mine yet, but will try because I've got a bit of a wobble. The motor drive shafts turn perfectly smooth, and the large axle is true as well, so I think the rubber wheel is uneven.
Mine has a very slight wobble too. :-)
@@RussellPlatten lol. For the money they charge, and all the praise they give themselves as far as offering the best of the best, and how simple the darn thing is made, my brand new one shouldn't wobble and neither should yours. I just woke up, I tend to say what I think without putting icing on the cake.
Where do you purchase the replacement parts, from Tormek or other?
Hi! Can you please confirm this is a 120RPM device? I cannot find a manual online. Thank you!
I think it is around 90 rpm. :-)
Hi, I bought a used tormek 4: once I apply pressure, the grinding wheel stalls; I remove the blade that I am sharpening and the grinding wheels continues to spin. can you
advise me how to correct the problem. thanks
There are several reasons that could be causing the issue David. The drive wheel could be worn. The tension on the motor shaft could be too low. You could be putting too much pressure on the stone. The motor could be faulty. I would strip the machine down and investigate the issue. :-)
Thanks for your assistance; one last question, the main shaft on my tormek 4 is in good condition but when I took it apart, the grinding stone is attached, I think you had a similar problem, How did you remove the stone from the main shaft. Thanks
@@davidruiz5383 I removed the shaft from the machine with the stone still attached and then hammered the shaft down through the stone with the nut in place to prevent damage to the thread. I used my lathe bed to rest the stone on and allow the shaft to be knocked out. The shaft thread was damaged slightly in the process and the corrosion on the shaft where the stone had been made it unuseable. That is why I purchased a new SS shaft. :-)
Hi, Russell, thank you for making this video available. Very informative. Quick question, if a stone chipped, how much would a chipped stone affect the sharpening process?
It depends on how badly it was chipped. If it is only small the stone may be fine. If not it may need dressing. :-)
@@RussellPlatten Thank you. The chip is at the corner about 1/8" wide, 5/16" tall, and 1/8" deep.
@@organogardener9210 In my opinion, if the blade you are sharpening is not bouncing up and down when the chip passes under it, it should be fine. Try sharpening something that is not important and see what results you get. Good luck! :-)
@@RussellPlatten Thank you. On a brandnew stone, does one need truing the sharpening surface before using it? I tried to use Tormek's truing tool to fix the chipped area, but it appears that the stone is uneven. Certain part of the stone come in contact with the tool, while other areas are not. This suggest that the stone may need to be trued for an even sharpening surface, what are your thought?
@@organogardener9210 It depends on whether the stone has a flat cross section. if you can lay a straight edge across the stone and see no light underneath, it should be ok. If it is not straight and has grooves or is worn down in the centre it should be dressed. Thee are only my opinions, others may give you different advice! :-)
hi, this question is totally off topic but what do you use the wheels on the left for. I'm looking for a sharpening system to sharpen the inside of a tantung copy lathe cutters (v gouge cutting tools)
The wheels on the left are leather and are designed to hone flat chisels, curved gouges and V gouges. The leather wheels for the gouges are an add on that is available for the Tormek sharpeners. :-)
I bought a second hand 1200 last year, and I'm pretty sure I'll have the same issues. I tried to move the stone but I can tell its rusted on. I've tried many times to level the stone but it never feels flush/circular, if that makes sense? Do you think the spindle is wonky ? Or bearings knackered?
Probably the bearings Tom. If you decide to do what I did, the new stainless spindle comes with two bearings. To remove the stone, take the honing wheel off and pull the spindle out through the housing. You will be able to remove the stone, but will probably damage the spindle. I used a thicker nut on the thread next to the stone and knocked the shaft out with a lot of effort. I used my lathe bed to hold the stone with the spindle between the rails. Even with the thicker nut, the thread was damaged. I reckon you will need a new spindle no matter what you do. Check to make sure your housing is not damaged. :-)
@@RussellPlatten Many thanks!
You're welcome. :-)
I bought a new T4 and an almost new 1200 Supergrind without water bowl for €146 .... I have the Japanese stone extra. Immediately also ordered a new ash, water bowl for the 1200.''''I think 146 € for a second hand with a stone that is still 20 cm = little used ... was a good buy. Now I can sharpen on the 1200 and polish on the T4 with the Japan SJ 200 stone
Enjoy your new equipment Stefan! :-)
@@RussellPlatten
Thx,
Ich habe schon eine Haube in meinem normalen und japanischen Stein gemacht....also glatt mit dem tt50......Ich denke, ich werde meine Messer mit dem Draht schärfen, weil ich meine Steine misshandele! und das Messer zerschellt in der Stein.....Ich habe meinen japanischen Stein auf die 1200 gelegt....Dieser läuft etwas langsamer als der T4.Sehr zufrieden mit beiden Maschinen
Vielleicht kannst du damit die Risse verstärken : vor dem weiteren Platzen:
Quiksteel 16402 Aluminiumverstärkter Epoxidspachtel, 2 oz by amazon
I see your honing wheel wobbles too, mine does also and I've been trying to fix this, if not I'm going to have to turn a new wheel on the lathe because fuck paying £50 for a plastic disk!
The old shafts for these were quite terrible in that they were plated steel, not pure stainless, for cost reasons but, it's not a /great/ deal of stainless steel really, pretty sure they set these up to need replacing to make the £50 later. The cracking too is unbelievable! Epoxy will sort that though no problem.
Plastic bearings too. I'm looking at finding some sealed bearings of the right inner diameter and fixing them to the chassis somehow because even new plastic bearings have about 0.5mm play in them (measured with a dial test indicator). Supposed to be the best but I don't see any reason why they can't solve these problems at the design stage.
Make that £63 for a new drive wheel. What are they plaaaaaaying at. About 20p worth of cast aluminium and a bit of rubber. Could be swedish taxes driving their costs up, who knows.
I agree, they charge extortionate prices for everything. There is no doubt that Tormek gear is very good, but who in their right mind would place a steel shaft on a system that runs in water, especially when the stone will keep that water concentrated there long after it is turned off. I think that they rely on professionals persuading the rest of us that we will not get good results with anything else. Personally this repair has left a bad taste in my mouth! :-)
Ten years of use, what did you expect?
I expect to be able to replace the wheel without any issues. :-)
I have found the same problem on my 20 year old machine, and I don't know how to get the old shaft out, if I am able to do so where can I get a new spindle from?
Hi Martin. To remove the shaft you should take the leather honing heel off and pull the shaft out from the grinding wheel end. The new shaft comes with new nylon bearings. I found my replacement online after searching for Tormek 2000 replacement shaft. :-)
@@RussellPlatten Thanks Russell, I really could not have done it without you, I was trying to bash the shaft through from the grinding wheel end, but from the strop end very easy, but it really is a disgrace for Tormek to have made such a poor bit of engineering, especially at the prices they charge.
I agree it is a disgrace, Tormek will have been well aware of the fact that the shaft would rust at the stone and were obviously not bothered. I think they were thinking that owners would just buy a new machine and they would make more money. I have to say that their gear is exceptional, but I feel cheated a little by my experience with the 1200. There is no issue with the newer models as these have stainless steel shafts as standard. Mind you, once you replace your shaft and stone your Tormek will be as good as new! :-)
Cracks from hammering on it.
Probably! :-)
Same as mine Could not take the nut off the shaft
A very poor design Viktor! :-)
It seems to me the Tormek 1200 is a poor design. Those silly bearings the rusting shaft for this kind of money is unexceptable.
Agreed. The newer models are Allen stainless steel, but these were basically designed to fail. :-)
Spend a few bucks on a good epoxy. Stop drill the cracks at the ends, then epoxy the cracks You replaced the wearable bearings and shaft, should run great now.
:-)
Must be graphite tipped...lol
Tormek is junk
Used it for ten years and you're disappointed. In today's day and age you're lucky if things last ten months. The grinder shaft is bathed in water. Was it a surprise the shaft was rusted? Even stainless will rust. It's not rust proof, it's stainLESS steel. Try a dab of anti seize in the future on any threads and the plastic case is easily repaired with a soldering tool and plastic zip ties. A new T8 is around $900
:-)