VW Rear Brake Shoes Change. UP!, Polo, Skoda Fabia, Seat Ibiza. Sticking Handbrake, Stuck Drum
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มี.ค. 2021
- Tips and tricks workshop guide to help change rear brake shoes on VAG group cars
Smaller models on Volkswagen, Seat, Skoda cars
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![Bremsbacken wechseln - VW Polo [TUTORIAL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/l_Q1WXmwsEI/mqdefault.jpg)
Find the items that are used on the Dave Sterl channel in the Amazon shop.
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/davesterl
Thanks for the video, I'm tackling my daughter's Seat Mii (seized drums during the winter) next weekend, first time so this will help a lot!
Great job just changed mine last night never done drums before your vlog so easy to follow Cheers mate 👍🏻
Super video. Thanks for taking the time to post it. Top man
What a brilliant video !.. Loved in particular, the tip on how to 'un-adjust/rewind' the self adjusting 'wedge' !
Many thanks Dave.
Great video and helped me understand the issue I had which was exactly this! I didn’t want to undertake the job myself so needed to get the car to my local garage - had a top tip from the RAC who I’d logged a call out with - couple of buckets of hot water over the drums and the handbrake released for me to be able to take the car to my preferred mechanic!
Dave. This has been incredibly helpful. Thanks for putting the time and effort into making it. Cheers. 👍
Great tutorial,thanks for the clear instructions, just got my daughter a vw up with 72k miles on and will be checking out the rear drums soon this could save my sanity !!
Drum brakes are the devil's work. Had them on a Audi A2 TDI at 150k miles and a Skoda Fabia TDI over 100k miles. They run fine in decent weather, first sign of dampness or the cylinder leaks and goodnight Vienna. Good to see you grease the nylon rubbing pads on the hub backing plate during reassembly. Lucas and Bigg Red sell spring kits too.
Great tips Dave....I couldn't tell ye the last time I did a set of shoes, just don't see them these days... brings back good memories 😉
Great video - got to do the brakes on our 2016 Citigo as sticking so this vid really helpful - thanks
Great DIY and tips thank you very much. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Superbly explained video , thanks . Doing a leaking wheel cylinder on my Fabia tomorrow so this is very helpful .
Excellent video Dave... Very thorough... And good video production as well 👍
You're a very good judge there EPAD
Great video Dave 👍
Great video. I couldn’t figure out why the drum wasn’t going back in. You just explained it to me. Thanks a bunch!
Glad it helped!
Cheers for uploading this Dave, it has been very helpful 👍🏽
I have a Skoda Citigo, got a similar issue, a very common issue amongst VW design by the sound of it.
Great vid dave I allways done it by pulling the hub nut and pull off the flange but next time I'm doing a set I'll give your method a shotb
Thankyou for your help, Sir.
You are the help I needed to have a go.
Thankyou.
Great film on how to do the rear drums the best on the web.
Cracking video!!!!
Some good old fashioned mechanic work, it these jobs that pay the bills! 😁
Yes they do
Nice one dave , will be doing my sons polos back brakes shortly , so it’s good to have a demonstration of how to do it properly..👍
No problem 👍
Top class video and well presented thank you very much.
Very welcome
Top work by the way Dave.
cheers mate
good job as usual dave , volkswagen must have used that same type wedge adjuster for the last 60 years since vw beetle
So good,thank you !
Great video thanks for sharing .
Just wanted to add a tip after replacing everything and bleeding - Pump the brakes and start the car. Drive around and brake. Try also braking and pulling the handbrake together to make the automatic adjustment do its thing.
Then you can start addressing the (probably) loose handbrake. At least for me in the e-UP it was seized on both sized before replacing it all. The wires were probably slightly stretched after staying in that position way too long.
So you'll need to have at least one of the wheels in the air so it can spin freely. Remove the trim around the handbrake lever (only one screw in the rear cupholder on UP, then push the trim towards the front of the car).
Lift the handle until it engages in the first click, then release. The handbrake should go all the way down. Also try lifting until just before it engages and release, it should go fully down. Otherwise, tighten the adjustment nut (10mm) for the two wires until it does.
Next, pull the handbrake lever until the fourth click. Further tighten the adjustment nut until you can't manually rotate the wheel(s). Disengage handbrake and make sure the wheel spins freely. Some slight rubbing sound is OK, it'll wear off the first drive.
If you were only able to jack up one wheel at a time, jack up the other and confirm that it responds in the same way as the first one, without further adjustment.
You're now done, you've removed any slack in those two wires. Auto-adjustment will carry on working for both handbrake and brakes from now on.
Cheers for the help with that video I spent half an hour arguing with the drum and completely forgot about the adjuster 🤣 thanks though
Thanks for that Dave, I actually had a seized lever on my father-in-law's polo a few weeks ago, I removed just the one shoe and had to heat it to get the lever moving, I got it back on fine but only then to find that the cable is also sticking a little 🙈😂. The joys😂 Good tip to remove the wheel cylinder 👍😉
Cheers John
Good to know Dave great video cheers 👍
Cheers Igor, and thanks for the message about Murray Walker RIP
Perfect, thank you. On my car after 6y/250kkm lanyard also have to change. Best regards
From Italy very well!!
Nice workmanship Dave. Trick thumbnail 👍
Trick thumbnail??
@@davesterl The image for the video with the drum assembly super imposed over the hatch lid.
@@TheGibby3340 oh ok, wondering what you saw in the 'trick'. It's just an image saved as a sticker put over a still from the video. Similar to the manufacturers logos on other thumbnails
thank's mate.
The most clear video I have found, just wish he showed what springs went where . Still great though
More great and useful content there Dave. Top job.
Thanks 👍
I’m in the middle of the same job on a Polo 9N and I wish I’d seen this video first. I had exactly the same trouble as you getting one of the drums off and used the same methods. Ive got new brake shoes but surprisingly they don’t come with the spreader bar/yoke or wedge adjuster, wonder why they don’t supply everything as a kit? Same with the wheel cylinders, no new bolts. Well anyway now I’ve got the method to reassemble the springs thanks to yourself, wish me luck!
When I started in the trade there were possibly more drum brakes than disc.
Thanks for the video Dave, going to do something similar with my Skoda Citigo tomorrow 🤞🚗 What size was the cap you used over the brake line?
Cream job Dave 👍👍, they as you say all the same , like they have been dropped in a bucket of rusty water for about 15 yrs before fitting to car from new 👍👍👍👍
yeah mike, as they are all the same on the vag's you know what to expect
Nice video, but what to do if de drum wont move at all, my break is completely stuck, in the left rear wheel
Hi. What size is the stopper for the break line? Will do the same thing next weekend on my e-up and would be handy to have that
is there an easy way to get the handbrake cable on?
I have been doing these since the 90ts probably like yourself fucxxking still hate doing them.. Usually do them with everything still in place. Nice tip taking the slave cylinder off. Always fearful I will give myself more hassle by doing something like that. Think I'll try it next time.
Why no brake cleaner spray?
Hi Dave where did you get your flooring tiles?
It seems some new brake shoes are a bit too thick even for an old drum with some wear.
I thought it was the lip on the drum, so was beavering away with a dremel grinding bit. However, I then realised that once the lip preventing actually getting the drum on and off is away, it is simply a case of the shoes being too thick.
After lots of annoying wasted time, I think I will have to try to contour the shoes.
This is all after spending hours on the back plates which were caked with stone like deposit (I am talking welded on, not loose).
Edit: Or possibly just accept a bit of rubbing that will eventually stop through driving?
I usually just remove the bearing as the usually comes off no bother makes it a bit easier and use a long pick through the wheel hole to pull that adjuster down a bit but good job none the less
'none the less', you don't seem to be that impressed. I mentioned the alternative of pulling the hub and also mentioned no need to pull the adjuster down
Sorry no didnt mean to come across like that 😔 I enjoy the videos and watch them all from a fellow mechanic always looking for tips etc
Use a puller tool to remove the hub in future. Good work thumbs up! Pardon the pun
Puller not necessary as i have demonstrated
👍👍👍
Great video Dave at 27:11 are you using a hammer on the back or the screwdriver to tap up the adjuster?
Yes
I hate doing drum brakes lol, hope you have managed to watch some F1 testing
They can be a right pain. I'm really busy atm and have not seen much testing altho saw a clip of them going out with the aero grids on
why is hub still on ??
Because you do not need to take it off
ok
Lovely job. The key for me was how to get the bloody thing back on - you must remove the brake cylinder to do it! IMO that is a shite design compared with the old system without the separate hub as you could change the shoes and drum without the mess of brake fluid getting everywhere - obviously VW wants you to replace the brake cylinder whether it needs it or not!
Christ Dave, I expected the car to surrender the brake shoes with all the waffling.
Wheel off, drum off, clean and replace shoes. Done.
Good for you!!
de adjust the handbrake first
What?
You just skip the important parts, simply gurbage video
Do you want your money back
No pleasing some people! Wish I'd seen this video before doing this job. I struggled!