VW Polo Rear Brake Shoe Replacement - Polo Drum Brakes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ค. 2018
- How to replace VW Polo rear brake shoe | replacement Polo drum brakes. The 💯% BEST step by step guide on TH-cam.
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🛠 Draper 11534 Brake hose clamp
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DO NOT use mole grips or other pliers. They can damage the hose walls
🛠 Draper One man brake bleed kit
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These make brake bleeding a breeze
🛠 Draper Expert ¼” socket set
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I have an older version of this set. It will last you a lifetime. Superb quality
🛠 Draper (standard) ¼” socket set
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If the Expert set is beyond your current budget, try this.
🛠 US Pro torx socket set
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I much prefer these sets in plastic cases rather than on a bar. So much easier to store.
🛠 Digital caliper
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Perfect budget unit for the toolbox and general measurement
🛠 Mini Wire brush set
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🛠 Multipurpose tray
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Somewhere to put your bits & bobs or to catch dirt and drips. Use it in the garden even!
🛠 Normfest MC-1 brake cleaner
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You’d like to think brake cleaner is brake cleaner! But this is about the best I’ve used and with an excellent strong jet spray. And great value here if you buy in quantity.
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#volkswagen #polo #vwpolo - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hi friends. At 5:14 you could remove the bleed nipple completely - it makes it easier to undo the pipe union.
H
Absolutely ace description of a task I realised I’ve got to undertake on my daughter’s car this morning. Thanks for all your efforts - I’m most grateful.
Glad to help Colin, thanks for your feedback
Every time I watch this video I see how well and good you have done this well done
Cyd does it again. Thanks. In the spring your alternator video saved me £££££s and now in the summer You’ve showed me how change a brake cylinder.. my wife polo lives on!!!!
Great to hear! Thanks
Best video I have found on servicing the drum breaks. Thank you very much!!!
3 years on, this is still helping folks like me. Cheers! Although the drums being 16 years old at this point, they required a sledge hammer to remove haha 😄
Yeah, been there 😂😂
Undo the shoes first through the wheel bolt hole
Thank you. I had a go at this on my Skoda fabia (before this video).. was an absolute nightmare! Watching this made me realise how hard I made it for myself! Thank you lol
This chap is very thorough in this video.I've change my brake shoes following his method and was an easy job done plus didn't take as long.Good video 👍
Hi Mark, thanks for the vote of confidence. I do try to be thorough even though it goes against some YT "best practices". What got me started was frustration with videos that only show "half the job" with dismal quality. Welcome aboard.
Thanks - having struggled to find a video for this job on the Audi A2, this is very helpful. Clear, to the point and concise. Exactly what's needed when you're struggling with this sort of job 👍
You are welcome! I know exactly what you're talking about. In Engineering we call it 'Fresh Eyes'. A multi disciplined team approach to checking issues. Sometimes you just can't see the wood for the trees and need a fresh perspective.
Big thanks for this video Cyd, followed it to change the pistons, shoes and drums on my Polo following piston failure and fluid loss. Never worked with drums before so this was a great help!
Glad it helped, that is, after all, why I make these videos. I confess, I hate drum brakes. My first ever car had drums all round. It quickly gained discs from a GT version.
Hello Cyd, Thank you for your help. You are my inspiration. The whole video and commentary were great.
One thing you may not realise was a great help, was the picture of the brake shoes and drum all put together correctly at the beginjing of your film. It was great as a checklist and make sure mine was the same as yours.
Thank you again.
Really informative and made it look easy, really appreciate your tips and tricks that you shared during each step
Thanks very much ,concise, well edited and a great help unlike many of the American posts on here
100,000 miles, my wee polo has hit 324,834 miles 😱😁 very good video, i will be giving my polos read brakes a go this coming weekend xx
Nice 👍, be sure to report back about how you get on. Hearing how I've helped others through my channel is a real motivation boost to carry on and make more. And I always appreciate [constructive] feedback. 🖖
Any belt changes?
Superb video, very professional and the information/ technical chat during the video is first class.
Thank you
Great tutorial with very clear video footage 👏👏👏will be checking my daughters VW UP drums when she collects it soon this should be a great help thanks !! May get lazy if they need changing and buy complete ready assembled shoes and spring set .
Had a hell of a job on my fabia getting the drum off and them back off. Gave up and drove it to my garage. I've never had any luck with drums but that wedge release method as the clearest ive seen so far. I might try it again after seeing that. Thanks
Hi Mike, did you try again? Success?
Very good video Cyd for myself being a DIY driveway mechanic to learn from, 5 stars.
Thanks for saying. Did you manage okay in the end?
Absolutely incredible video, thanks!!
Excellent demonstration
Wow! You made that look so easy. I'm going to do mine now. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching Tony, let me know how you get on.
What a great video. All looks so easy. Thank you.
Thanks for posting. I had a leaky cylinder on my sons car and figured removing the cylinder seemed like the only way to get the shoes off! More springs than a triumph herald or spitfire but I guess thats because of the self adjuster!
Really good educational tutor,not like a lot of the villians
Thanks Cyd, video was a major help, definitely gonna subscribe!
Awesome, thank you!
First Class video well presented thank you very much for showing.
I believe this is the best video how to change rear brake shoes. Thanks, Cyd. Little hint: You might find it easier to use one of the springs (thick bottom one) to put top spring back in place rather than using cable ties. ;)
Thanks, kitani. Hopefully others will find that tip useful 👍.
One of the best videos on Polo 9N ! Complete explanations and very good skills ! BTW, i like your WIHA screwdriver ....
Thanks for the kind words Hirayama. That's exactly what I aim for. Hope it helps you okay.
Thank you Cyd. Your video is clear concise and complete. I was prepared to replace the hand brake cables as I heard they were liable to corrosion but couldn’t face the prospect of going underneath the car. Should have fitted them at the hb end on ramps first if that’s possible?
Superb video. Very informative.
Great video, very informative. Garage recently replaced a leaking piston on mine for mot, but now I am left with a loud grinding and creaking sound under braking. Any ideas what to check before I start investigating? Thanks.
Good Focus and best explained, thanks
New Suby and well needed for my task tomorrow on my sons polo!
I am about to embark on this journey. Have watched the video many times. The bit I was really interested in seeing was connecting the hand brake cable to the lever. ~From other videos it is not that easy.
Thanks for the video. :)
Hi Zeno, thanks for watching and commenting. Did I show enough detail on the handbrake linkage for you to be able to do it okay? You could make it a bit easier to do by slackening off the handbrake cable (gives me an idea for another video, lol).
Very informative, thank you sir 🙏
Amazing video thank you
Great stuff really helpful 👍
Excellent video thank you very much for your time and effort!
Glad it was helpful!
Bardzo dobrze, że na wstępie mówisz o bezpieczeństwie - kobyłki, kliny... bo podnośnik zawsze może się opuścić.😊
You make every thing look so easy
That top spring is a absolute nightmare to get back on
Great tip..couldn’t find the adjustment to release 🍻🍻
Glad you found your answer
I have got helped with the blog Thanks
great job , I've just done this job today so thanks for the video , do I need to do anything to set handbrake , I'm getting about 5 clicks on handbrake maybe 6 if I pull hard
Very professional sir highly experienced
So nice of you, welcome aboard
Many thanks helped a lot.
I knocked the wedge tension spring off while levering it up thru the wheel nut hole. Crapped myself at thought of then not getting drum off but it came off with a little bit of levering between fixed rear cover and drum.
Found by pausing your vid where it had been connected to on the brake shoe.
All I had to do was clean the crud out as it had ceased up the day before, and while a few taps unleashed it I wanted to see what it was like inside. Could not get it off until I watched your vid.
Been over 30yrs since I stripped brakes on my Golf Mk1. VW seem to have gone backwards on their design complicating pad replacement and reducing the safety in securing the hub on the stub axle. Gone it seems is the split pun and locking device replaced with a torqued up nut. Backward step but probably faster when building the cars.
Still got half a tin of Duckhams grease left over from my time regreasing the stub axle bearing after pad replacement that I bought in 1984 in Africa.
There's always 'fun' to had when working on cars. Good work.
Great video thanks
Thank you for a very well made clear video, I’m going to mark you down for having a claw hammer on the job though 😉
Could not figure out that wedge system bud ty 15 stupid videos till i found your now the job is done well done fella and cheers for the help all the adjuster systems i have done before were the cog type fork adjusters never seen this wee wedge thing 😂 😂 cherrs again great video
Yeah, it was new to me as well which is what made me want to suss it out and then pass on that knowledge. Welcome aboard
Thanks for the video.
Thank you Sir
your video is helpful.
Thank you for the compliment and welcome aboard.
Do let us know how you get on with the job.
This chap should be a tutor, for young budding motor mechanics.
I have to do this on my polo , all I have to do is get the right bits for it and the cylinders seem a bit of a minefield.
Thank you, that's very nice of you. The main thing is to be methodical. Take photos as you go to refer back. As you take parts off, lay them out on your tray in the assembled pattern. Be scrupilously clean
Well Done Greetings from Poland
Thank you.
good clear advice, thanks
Welcome aboard, glad to be of help
Hey man, great video. I assembled everything back together, but the nipple keeps bleeding. Any thoughts or solutions for me?
Grand merci pour la technique pour écarter les patins du tambour.
Thanks teacher good lessons
halmat ali
Thanks for watching. Don't forget to like and share
Nice video 👍. Great info.
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful, thanks.
Glad to hear that!
Nice video that helps with changing the shoes. Not sure about removing the wheel cylinder though, it’s easy enough to get the hub off with a 30mm socket, it makes it all a lot more accessible then too
Good vídeo, its neccesary remove the hidraulyc piston for remove the drum pads?
Very useful cheers
Thank you, Not. Welcome aboard
Thanks for the vid.
Where did you place the hose clamp? Also, I got the one linked but it seems way too wide for the hose (the clamp says it is for 10-20mm hose)
Thanks again!
Thank you for the amazing video! This is so far the best rear drum brake system maintanance video avaliable for VW Polo. I have a question: The self ajudstment device can be moved in both directions? To open and retract the pads? Some cars its possible just in order to open the pads to compensate the pads wear, but not in opposite direction. Cheers from Brazil!
Hello Thiago. Thanks for the kind words.
Yes it is. Use a screwdriver to release the shoes. At 1:10 in the video.
So much easier than other makes.
Don't forget to like, subscribe and share.
Hey cyd, how did you get the brake cable back on the lever. I'm struggling with the pushing back the spring with one hand and pushing it on the lever at the same time. Did you have to to have someone else there to help?
Mr. Cyclone Cyd, thanks so much for the instructional video. If my english is a bit different from yours, it's because it's American English. The point of my comment is to let you, and others know, that my wifes' and my 1980 B1 Dasher diesel has this style of self adjusting read brake drum set up. I was going through the repair manual (Bentley and another British style maintenance manual...forgot the name) and I was looking for the 'star' adjusting wheel inside the drum while looking through one of the four holes (lug bolts) that are present when the tire/tyre is removed from the drum. I could not see this 'star wheel'. This leads me to believe that there is this self-adjusting wedge that you went in to detail on. Thanks so much. My whole plan was to get the parking brake light to go out while I am driving the car to and fro. The maintenance manual specifically says to adjust the rear drum shoes before adjusting the handbrake lever yoke ('U' shaped bracket) under the car that pulls tension on the brake cable linking the two drum brakes together. But, since the rear drum brakes are self-adjusting......I am going to investigate what I have to do first ......and then adjust the hand brake lever play to ensure the parking brake light does go out while I am driving. It is certainly not an electrical fault. I can periodically set my hand down onto the brake lever and the light does go out on the left side of the instrument cluster. So, If there are any other owners/drivers of vws that have a similar issue with their cars...Please chime in here. I think I would like some advice on this topic, please and have a great afternoon.
Sounds like the handbrake cable has too much slack and is holding the h/brake lever up slightly. Yes, adjust the brake shoes with the footbrake first before adjusting the cable
Great video , thanks for posting .
Thanks, Charlie. Did you have to refurbish your drum brakes?
@@CycloneCyd Hi there , my daughters 13 plate polo is due its MOT in a couple of weeks and I suspect it will need brakes replaced . I am a bit concerned that the bleed niples will be seized and shear . Is it possible to remove the shoes without taking the wheel cylinder off ?
Great video
Thanks
Does the auto adjuster set when you pull the hand brake or do you have to press the brake pedal once everything is back together to set the adjustment? Thanks
Hi, my Girlfriend has a 2014 VW Up!, and I noticed yesterday when it pulled away there was a small " bang" off the rear NS drum, I guess they are sticking a little, is there an easy way to correct this or is it a stripdown???
very well put over ,clear and concise ,does the self adjusting wedge reset itself on hand brake action ????
Thank you. Yes, it does.
Thanks for this video it has helped a lot
I must confess, I hate working on drum brakes so it's really gratifying to know it's helping people.
@@CycloneCyd I do to
Thanks, but 2 other great tips in the comments made it easier to do, and didn’t need the cylinder to come off, 1 tie wrap the cylinder pistons closed, gives lots more room to work with, and 2, relax the hand brake cable so there play in the cable, makes it easier to reattach the cable against the tension in the spring at the end of the cable. Thanks all.
th-cam.com/video/uRFF-jqvzLU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for doing the video!
I had to remove the shoes on a 6R Polo TDI and was baffled how to get the return spring, hidden behind the push lever, out. This video my first port of call. I opted to take the cylinders too because you're supposed to fit a new hub nut if you take the hub off. Just a pity VW decided to make the brake shoe fitting so daft. Don't care much for the thin bleed nipple, a chunky one would be better. Coat the nipple and brake pipe with ceramic grease before refitting. I stopped using coppaslip because it dries out and causes things to stick.
yeah, copper grease was "state of the art" 70 years ago. In truth it's rubbish. Things move on.
Hi, thanks for a great video. At the last service VW told me one side has very little brake movement, so I'll be doing a cleanup and replacing brake shoes and wheel cylinders on both sides on my 2014 VW eUP. Will the procedure be identical to the one in your video? The car has under 25.000 miles on the clock. Do you think it would be necessary to replace the drums? Thanks.
Hi Robert. Thanks for watching and welcome aboard.
I'm not familiar with th eUp specifically, but most brake drums are similar and I'd be surprised if VW deviated much from a proven carry over design.
At only 25k I'd be very surprised if you need new shoes or cylinders. I'd suggest getting them from somewhere that accepts returns if unopened. I'll bet it just needs a good clean up and lube. Use Cera Tec for lube. amzn.to/2naTyZ3.
New drums? Very unlikely
Nice video and good explained, it helps me to change brake shoes on my polo 9n, but I removed bearing with 30mm socket and it was easier for me. Now I have small problem, brake pedal is a bit soft and hand brake "catch" very high.
After all I bleed out only rear brakes.
Do you have idea what can be problem? Thanks!
Put ceratec around the bleed nipple threads to prevent air being drawn in through them and bleed again.
This can be done without removing the wheel cylinder but it is a little tricky.
Undo hold down springs,release hand brake cable.(slacken handbrake all the way back,will make this very easy)
It is made easier to remove by putting cable tie round wheel cylinder (this has two benefits ,it stops wheel cylinder coming apart,and gives a little more room)
Release the spring from handbrake lever ( the long one clipped through the bar), unclip small spring to adjuster, and push adjuster up.
You can now manoeuvre the handbrake shoe to a position you can open it enough to release it from bar.
It's a little fiddly but better than messing with rusted brake pipes or having the bearing come apart.
Hi sportshatch, thanks for watching and for helping out others with the tip. 👍
spotshatch, can you explain a bit more clearly as I am rather confused about the last part of your method.
lightvan to get the shoe with the hand brake lever to separate from the adjustment bar you must open it up until the hand brake lever can be slid out.. You will see after you take a look . After I did the first side , the other took me less than ten minutes.
But you have to get it at the right angle to open the shoe enough. It's difficult to explain but easy to see once you have it apart..
When you put the new shoe in you again have to feed it into the lever at an angle.,with the lever open away from the shoe..
After you slid the lever into the slot on the bar you can then close the lever back into place. You know if you have it in correctly because if it is not you won't be able to close the lever into the shoe to refit.
I know this doesn't sound very clear but I hope it helps.after you do it once you will Change the shoes in 10min
@@sportshatch many thanks for your explanation. I shall proceed with the job.
maybe possible with it all loose
Great video buddy. I have found that the self adjusting wedge mechanism in these drums is not great at self adjusting. A tip i got from a mechanic was to do some manual adjustment after the drum was back on. Stick a tool with a point through the same hole that you did to free the shoes and locate the hole in the wedge that the spring is in and force it downwards just a wee bit till the drum starts to drag a bit and this means there will be less adjustment at the handbrake end.
Thanks for the tip!
Can you please update the part numbers for the brake wheel cylinder and brake shoes .
Very good video, I would advise buying a pair of handbrake cable pliers
If you're likely to use them more than once, a very good investment. A good shout! 👍
Excellent tutorial 👌🏻 very helpful, thanks.
But I have a question about the adjustment. Will these shoes automatically adjust after pressing/pumping the pedal a few times, or is a manual adjustment required?
Thanks again 👍🏻
Regards from Scotland 🏴
Hi James, the brakes are self adjusting. A few [hard] brake pedal pumps should be enough, but I'd also recommend a couple of firm stops on the road to ensure the shoes are properly seated.
What could cause it to knock? I have a knocking in the back when I drive. It seems to stop after about 10/15 mph
Bravissimo very well
Thank you Karmal, I hope it helped you out.
What is the brake fluid bleeding sequence on this Polo? Brakes replaced and working fine, but pedal is a little bit soft.. thanks for the great video!
Unfortunately I don't know the VW specified sequence. I always start at the rear then do the fronts. The biggest problem I've found with brake bleeding is air being sucked back in past the nipple threads - a wipe of Ceratec will solve that.
very good but always de-lip the rear drums before refitting. It is sometimes possibly to bleed air by squeezing in wheel cylinder, close nipple, open nipple squeeze etc until no air comes out.
Hi cyd, on the self adjuster do you have to push it back up or down with a flathead once drum is back on?
No need. "Self adjuster" - does what it says on the tin, but you should operate the footbrake first to allow it to self adjust before you operate the handbrake.
Great video but where do you clamp the brake hose? Im working on a vw up and all the brake pipes coming out the drum are metal. Thx
There must be a hose in the vicinity of where the pipes jump from suspension to body to cope with the relative movement
The adjuster wedge is best set at minimum and let the application of foot and handbrake adjust the shoes out. A good how to video. The amusing part of the job is having to remove the cylinder.
Great tip!
@@CycloneCyd
Great video!
yap,very good video,easy to understand...but noway ill take the chance of doing this on my own,can go very wrong,and when you realize that you done it wrong....to late to STOP!! but keep them videos coming,thanks
Yeah, some jobs can require a 'brave pill', lol. Thanks for watching and interacting
My handbrake isn't working on that side. I've had the cable out and it's ok. The pipe it feeds through that retains the outer cable is good and in place - not moving with the handbrake action. I've tightened the cable all the way and still the drum will spin with the lever hard up. checked inside the drum and there's not much movement happening. Is there anything that could have failed at the shoe end? Gonna dismantle it now and look. Thanks for the video which i've watched to see how the shoes come apart.
What happened in the end? I've got exactly the same problem. Thanks
I've done this but 1 of my rear left shoes is making a shuddering sound everytime I brake, changed the master cylinder now also but still making the sound any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try giving the braking surface of the drums a really good clean with a 50 grit flapwheel. Also ensure there is no grease or brake fluid contamination on the braking surfaces - thery must be scrupilously clean.
Hi if I only need to change the cylinder do I need to remove the shoes or can it be removed leaving them in place? I've changed discs before but not had to do drums.
I've always removed the shoes when changing cylinders. I've never tried to change cylinders without removing shoes. I don't think you could because of the springs. In any case, it is a rare opportunity to give everything a good clean and make sure everything goes back together in tip top
If I want to change my handbreak cable do I have to remove the shoes to disconnect it or can it be done from the outside of the assembly
You might be able to leave the shoes in place if the other end can be released first to slacken the inner cable. You'll defo need to remove the drum though. Do let us know how you get on.
I have a 2011 VW Jetta and I'm having a hard time getting the rear drums off. I've tried pushing up on the wedge as described in the video, but no success getting them off. Is there something I'm missing? Any suggestions are appreciated.
You have released the handbrake? I know it seems obvious, but it's an easy mistake to make. Try releasing the cable adjustment too.
Another possibility: is the hydraulic system fully releasing? I've known faulty master cylinder keep pressure in brake lines and make discs rub. You could try disconnecting the brake line at the wheel cyclinder.
You're certain the Jetta uses the same adjustment mechanism?
Hi what size is the flare nut size on the wheel cylinder my car is a mk1 Skoda fabia.thank u
11mm is a common size, but sometimes 10 or 12.
The brake hose isn't flexible so where abouts are you putting the clamp? Does it go to flexible further up?
guess you could use easibleed here too, same method almost.
Interesting - is the hub nut that difficult, does it need changing? I dont think my torque wrench is that accurate, plus the angles. Only done ford hubs with split pins!
Hi Dean, thanks for watching and commenting. No, the hub nut isn't especially 'difficult' but you do need a new nut AND a suitable torque wrench AND it is important to get it right or the wheel bearing will be wrecked in no time flat. IMO the workaround is easier and just less hassle.
hi surely there's enough room to hook over shoes and springs over the hub without taking cylinder off?
If anyone out there can find "the knack", they are welcome to make a portrait video of it and send it to me. I'll edit it into a #Shorts and publish it.
Hello I have a EPC/TRACTION light problem with my VW polo 9n when I apply brakes the lights come on screen and the car goes to limpo I change the control module but the problem persists? Any help.
Check the relevant wiring very carefully for any damage. Feel as well as look.
Hi cyclone sid you don't mention how to ajust the rear brakes having someone in the car to press the brake pedal so you can pull the wedge down using a small spike to lock the brake on then back it off so you can turn the brake drum and hear the linings binding as the wedges never seem to work don't think the spring is strong enough plus you didn't bleed the brake the old fashioned way using a jar with brake fluid in and a pipe on the bleed nipple and the pipe in the brake fluid to watch for all the air being removed other wise good video I've had experience with Mark 4&5 models
I do explain how the wedge works at just after 6 minutes. The spring doesn't need to be strong because it's working with gravity, the wedge should drop under it's own weight. If you have problems adjusting up, then the wedge may be damaged, worn or gummed up. I had no problem at all with either side. You could always put a stronger spring in if you feel you must.
At 13:06 I say that I was using an "easy bleed" pipe with a one-way valve. The tube is also clear so bubbles can be seen along it's length, which IMO is a superior method to watching the bubbles in the jar because then you're looking at fluid that has just come out rather than previously bled fluid.
I too was brought up using the two man method where the nipple needs tightening each time the pedal is released. I've had that easy bleed pipe since Gunson's first introduced them to market, probably 25 years ago. I even prefer it to the pressurised bleed systems you can get.
Don’t forget to make sure the reservoir doesn’t run dry while bleeding and don’t overfill it. It’s handy if someone keeps an eye on it and tops up while you’re bleeding the brakes.
Good point, thank you.