I checked out pricing. These bad boys go for 15 GRAND for a built short block...but lets not forget the almost 7 GRAND youre gonna wanna spend on Cosworth Heads, another 1.5 grand for an intake, and God only knows how much after you decide what turbo package youre gonna go with. And then of course there's all the other "little things" that come up.....but if you want a totally bullet proof block with heads that can handle a 10,500 rpm redline and help you push well over 1000hp you know how it goes....ya gotta pay to play. Id LOVE to play like that. Guess I'll just have to settle for running mid 11s in my WRX for now. Its nice to dream though 😎
Its alot right? But not alot more if a race team is building from scratch... the extra 10k for a super durable engine with an enormous ceiling of potential power is a no brainer. Night and day difference with some of the time attack cars ive been watching lately
@@bryanc4054 That redline is really dependent on the heads and cams. But it should go without saying that your short block better be built like a MFer if your plans include not snapping rods thru the block. That's just $16 k for the Willall Billet Short Block, but there are actually various choices that can raise that price such as the head bolt sizes, and other options. Then another $11 k for heads. There are, of course, choices there as well that can raise that price tag higher. It's actually very interesting to read about it all even if we can't afford it cause it's just amazing where the levels of tech have gone to. But yeah, as was said, by the time you're done with a build of that calibre, you're easily looking at a $100 grand+ pricetag. For me, when I started racing 38 years ago, it was easy to build a big block in the garage with your buddys and crank out an easy 700+ hp and throw a 300hp NOS Plate ststem or a Manifold Fogger kit. All you needed to tune those was a 9/16 wrench to loosen the distributor cap, a timing light, and a screwdriver to tune the air/fuel on the Carb. Sure, we went to fabrication shops to have full frames done up, ladder bar setups and rear end housing pivoted with relocated drag shocks. My 68 Camaro was set-up with a Dana Rear with 410s cause it was actually my daily, a 3500 stall converter for daily use. But it ran 9 Flat with a 300 shot Plate NOS system at Raceway Park. Never had the chance but we had wanted to throw in a 5500 stall converter and a set of 456 years and break into the 8s but the car got stolen. The reason I bring it up tho is to compare. Back then if you had said out loud that you had a 4 cylinder that made over 1000whp we woulda put you in a straight jacket and tossed you in a padded room. These days, you can get a closed deck block and all the other necessary bolt ons and a big ass turbo, tune it on E85, maybe even throw a Meth injection on it or a small shot of NOS, 25k out the door and you're running 9s with a 2 liter 4 banger. It's amazing how far things have come. Now you need 3 PhDs to work on these cars...lol 🌽🔥💥💨✌
All the people asking about weight! There would be an increase in weight with the billet block but as an engineer who has done the CAD for many engines I can tell you that the increased volume from the billet block is not that much. Plus aluminum is so light it should not be a major factor. I'd guess about 25 lbs. The key with the billet material is the way the microstructure of the aluminum is not manipulated like it would be in a cast application.
The block by itself 10k, but yeah... 15k for the shortblock. www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Willall-Stage-X-EJ25-Subaru-Billet-Short-Block-p/iag-eng-1610.htm
VIsubby I wouldn't count on ej build being cheaper but I would think closed deck blocks might be a bit cheaper. I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on iag but I don't think iag is building the billet blocks but just reselling them. Cosworth is pricey af but they know what they are doing. Not that iag doesn't, but if you're racing, crowler cams. Super tech valves. This block. It'll be over 9000!
strength is key to making big power with reasonable longevity, billet blocks flex far less, although they are pricey for sure. i get one if i hit the lottery
What is the comfortable max reliable power of a the built cast block can handle? At what point would it be recommended to switch to the billet block after you've done everything with the cast block?
The hollow area around pistons are designed for the cooling of the engine. While the rebuilt one is filled with metal. I understand that this gives you higher stiffness, but what about the cooling?
There is but it's not visible from the top / head surface of the block. Once past the top surface the flange of the sleeve reduces down in diameter to a fairly thin wall thickness leaving a large gap between the outer shell of the block and the sleeve liner support material. As for the small looking holes going from the top face down it's pointless for them to be any bigger than than the holes in the head gasket which are usually quite small to evenly regulate the flow and hence temperature between all the cylinders.
Certainly, everything covered in the video is important, but I'm curious if the billet material itself is stronger than the casting? Generally billet parts are stronger than cast parts, even if they have the same features and geometries, I wonder if that is contributing in this case as well.
Australian companies ship things all the time to the US. Performance parts go back and forth between the US and Kangarooland every day. Can you legally put one in your 08 STI? Probably except in California. Probably cost a couple hundred, and don't skimp on the insurance... UPS likes to lose custom-made engines. ;)
Phoenix racing, you guys get all the good stuff. Shit I'm over here risking getting deported because I'm Mexican jk. Thanks guys I'll check them out, and see what's the worst that can happen in California.
Thor Dehr a big ass oil cooler better antifreeze and a massive alloy radiator with aero so all the air runs though the said radiator, I am 100% sure would be more then enough to compensate for the slightly smaller water jackets I don't even think it would be a problem tbh.I think this block is absolutely awesome and if money wasn't a problem I'd buy at least 3 like now lol
Aluminum is extremely conductive thermally, cast iron is 50 vs 160 for aluminum. Basically the heat from combustion will transfer throughout the whole block extremely quickly.
Young Rik hvac if your ring gaps are set properly, you will be consuming just a little bit of oil. Factory gapping is too tight for higher than factory boost, so people always end up blowing ringlands.
They're more difficult and expensive to make. That is the only real downside to closed deck blocks in general. Cooling issues are a case by case basis - many closed deck blocks like the (R35 GT-R's) VR38 aren't wanting for cooling volume/flow. It especially helps that aluminum, unlike iron/steel, is particularly good at transferring heat, which is why it's the go-to metal for heat sinks.
Closed deck blocks have to be sand cast instead of die cast. This means a big increase in the cost of production long term. Also due to the less precise method of sand casting more material needs to be added to compensate and the design less elaborate. The number I have been given is that a die cast block is 30% lighter between fully sand cast and full die cast but that sounds like a lot more than I what I would personally expect. With the design being less elaborate it can be seen with that on fully sand cast blocks they don't have the fine ribs and lots of small weight saving points as seen at 4:05 in the video. Though I am gong to take an educated guess and say that modern closed deck blocks probably use a hybrid of both techniques- a sand core for around the bores but with die casting for the rest.
The strength of the billet block comes almost completely from the fact that it's forged rather than cast. If Willall took the time to match the weight saving geometry of the OEM block through extra machining, it would still be vastly stronger than the OEM.
One thing to remember though is that aluminum is extremely conductive thermally. I believe cast iron is around 50, and aluminum is 160. I'm a welder by trade, and when I weld on aluminum, the whole work piece heats up almost instantly, vs carbon steel which can take a long time to conduct the heat away from the weld zone. I think that block even though its closed deck, would be better at dissipating heat than an open cast iron deck.
Now to get an $20k to buy this and another $20 for the transmission. Id be out $70k+ if i started with the Willall block but i guess i might win the lottery any day now so yay!
As much as its great billet, I don't see the justification in price, I 'd rather stay with cast block, when the engine start pricing higher than the rest of the car its more about aesthetics at that point not performance
Who cares about the weight difference ? With the overall "solidity" of that block you can push WAY more than enough hp/tq to MORE than compensate for the weight difference. That block is as bullet proof as youre gonna get. In regards to one comment, yeah, imagine if it was made out of titanium....it would be CRAZY lightweight and incredibly strong.
I completely agree with your point on the weight, I don't think it would even be that much more than standard in which saving grams per engine works out to a big saving long term. But with the material I don't fully agree with you. Titanium by volume has a 61% greater weight than Aluminium. Titanium can however make up for this by being much more than 61% stronger and were relevant much better fatigue resistance properties. So what this means is that something made from Titanium can be lighter but only when it can make made in such a way where it ends up having less material being used due to it's higher strength. For example a Titanium bike frame will have a significantly thinner wall thickness in the tubes. Now the issue with a fully machined engine block out of Titanium is that there is a lot of places where the material can't be removed due to access. Can't machine a cavity if the cutter can't get to it. Most of the outside block profile would be more time consuming but still totally doable, it would end up looking quite similar to the original block with all the little cut outs but perhaps with extra thin ridges added to help. But around other areas it can't be accessed to remove the material or alternatively a minimum amount of material is required regardless of strength, such as the width of the sealing surface. So I think that it could possibly be lighter but I suspect it wouldn't be by much and it would require in the region of x4 the machining time as a rough guess. This isn't easy to explain so hopefully it makes sense and I open to correction.
So rated at over 1000hp for how long? Bet it doesn't get as many miles as the std block in daily use, especially if you want to spend a weekend skiing the snow fields then start it from cold and drive down the mountains with those tight clearances. Why don't you show a FEA of the block with load inputs and thermal gradients, then we can really see the "meat" left in the block where the toolcutter couldn't reach boiling the engine as it sits in traffic on a 40 degree Sydney afternoon. Building this into a track day car would be awesome and should be said so as well as recognising the shortcomings for road use, pity this views like a sales commercial then a detailed analysis. Do the liners have stepped top flanges or is it still relying on the thermal movement design the factory used on its fast cooling block verses your slow cooling one? Did the designer build in larger radii for the webs after FEA. At those big hp's you'd be running a lot higher ring tension then standard, so more TDC wear even when cruising and running cold. Meh bet that block cost the owner more then a buck per mile of life.
Well , i'm in UK too . had V3 STI , V4 STI and V7 STI all being JDM . New age UK cars have 2.0 from 2002 to 2005 only , UK hawk has 2.5 engine with constant ringland failures . This subject is no news to me , i'm friends with several tuners and mappers and quite aware of the 2.5 engine problems.
yah i was gunna get a scoob but knew theyd have problems and need a rebuild at 100k or so or the chances are it would be thrashed and with awd it wouldnt be as much fun not being able to do on the spot burnouts at lights so i got a 2 litre 5 cylinder turbo FWD
Most cars will need a rebuild after 100k if you trash them , some wont even get there depending on your mechanical sympathy. Spot burnouts at lights , well it's 4wd and i'm not 17 anymore so i rather track my cars . Saying that i had an EVO 6 after scoobs and it was more rewarding and suitable for my driving style. Now i'm on RWD and thats the whole different ball game again.
I checked out pricing. These bad boys go for 15 GRAND for a built short block...but lets not forget the almost 7 GRAND youre gonna wanna spend on Cosworth Heads, another 1.5 grand for an intake, and God only knows how much after you decide what turbo package youre gonna go with. And then of course there's all the other "little things" that come up.....but if you want a totally bullet proof block with heads that can handle a 10,500 rpm redline and help you push well over 1000hp you know how it goes....ya gotta pay to play. Id LOVE to play like that. Guess I'll just have to settle for running mid 11s in my WRX for now. Its nice to dream though 😎
Its alot right?
But not alot more if a race team is building from scratch... the extra 10k for a super durable engine with an enormous ceiling of potential power is a no brainer.
Night and day difference with some of the time attack cars ive been watching lately
But totally get ya, i dream of one of these aswell lol
10.5k redline?!?! Holy cow, I've never wanted that block so badly until just now.
For a full 800hp + build it’ll cost you $82k for engine fabrications and everything plus the car you’ll be well over $100k
@@bryanc4054 That redline is really dependent on the heads and cams. But it should go without saying that your short block better be built like a MFer if your plans include not snapping rods thru the block. That's just $16 k for the Willall Billet Short Block, but there are actually various choices that can raise that price such as the head bolt sizes, and other options. Then another $11 k for heads. There are, of course, choices there as well that can raise that price tag higher. It's actually very interesting to read about it all even if we can't afford it cause it's just amazing where the levels of tech have gone to. But yeah, as was said, by the time you're done with a build of that calibre, you're easily looking at a $100 grand+ pricetag.
For me, when I started racing 38 years ago, it was easy to build a big block in the garage with your buddys and crank out an easy 700+ hp and throw a 300hp NOS Plate ststem or a Manifold Fogger kit. All you needed to tune those was a 9/16 wrench to loosen the distributor cap, a timing light, and a screwdriver to tune the air/fuel on the Carb. Sure, we went to fabrication shops to have full frames done up, ladder bar setups and rear end housing pivoted with relocated drag shocks. My 68 Camaro was set-up with a Dana Rear with 410s cause it was actually my daily, a 3500 stall converter for daily use. But it ran 9 Flat with a 300 shot Plate NOS system at Raceway Park. Never had the chance but we had wanted to throw in a 5500 stall converter and a set of 456 years and break into the 8s but the car got stolen. The reason I bring it up tho is to compare. Back then if you had said out loud that you had a 4 cylinder that made over 1000whp we woulda put you in a straight jacket and tossed you in a padded room. These days, you can get a closed deck block and all the other necessary bolt ons and a big ass turbo, tune it on E85, maybe even throw a Meth injection on it or a small shot of NOS, 25k out the door and you're running 9s with a 2 liter 4 banger. It's amazing how far things have come. Now you need 3 PhDs to work on these cars...lol 🌽🔥💥💨✌
A Gold Billet Aluminum block. This looks baller as hell!
That block is absolutely gorgeous!
Car Porn!
R2-D2 and C-3PO after recycling. Thanks for complete information.
wow that is a piece of art tbh
can you please show this engine with heads and when in the car? i would like to see wjere this engine ends up
All the people asking about weight! There would be an increase in weight with the billet block but as an engineer who has done the CAD for many engines I can tell you that the increased volume from the billet block is not that much. Plus aluminum is so light it should not be a major factor. I'd guess about 25 lbs. The key with the billet material is the way the microstructure of the aluminum is not manipulated like it would be in a cast application.
My advice is steer well clear of Wilall and in particular, Martin Donnon. They are dodgey operators. Don't get caught up in the smoke and mirrors.
lol right
I learn so much good information from your videos please keep it up
Great rundown Brett, explains billet blocks really well.
Keep up the informative and new tech explanation videos :)
I learned so much from watching you... thanks keep up the great work
Holy cow I bet those blocks aren't cheap. Impressive bit of engineering for sure.
Talasas $15,000+
mrmagnetsarecool that's not to bad
KAVINSKY311 I got a quick quote to have my FA motor built by a local shop in California and they said $8-9k, so 15k for this does seem pretty good
The block by itself 10k, but yeah... 15k for the shortblock. www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Willall-Stage-X-EJ25-Subaru-Billet-Short-Block-p/iag-eng-1610.htm
VIsubby I wouldn't count on ej build being cheaper but I would think closed deck blocks might be a bit cheaper. I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on iag but I don't think iag is building the billet blocks but just reselling them.
Cosworth is pricey af but they know what they are doing. Not that iag doesn't, but if you're racing, crowler cams. Super tech valves. This block. It'll be over 9000!
Thats a beautiful piece of machining. i wonder how many hours go into making those two halfs?
50 hours according to his video
After 2 blown motors should've just went with one of these first
Not to sure . I bet it will very heavy on the wallet, cheaper to keep buying factory blocks maybe
@@jimmy.t5850 Maybe could do a 12 month payment plan? 🤣
Please show the build as it progresses! Let's see it in action when all is set and done!
Looks like it's time for me to find a block of aluminum, a drill and hammer.
keep doing videos... love your capacity to explain thing ... good job
are these drag only? Please address the cooling ability of these since it looks like almost no cooling passages. Great vid!
This is cool, can't wait to see the build
What's the weight difference?
Great video! I'm not in the market for a Subaru engine, but leant a lot from this. Thanks!
strength is key to making big power with reasonable longevity, billet blocks flex far less, although they are pricey for sure. i get one if i hit the lottery
Yeah same here. I would buy 4 for the fuck of it.
Hey Bret,
I realise the low centre of gravity inherent in a flat four. But could you please tell the actual weight difference between the two engines.
When would these be in the market and estimated price on them???
Angel Acuna $15k for a short block, its on their website
What is the comfortable max reliable power of a the built cast block can handle?
At what point would it be recommended to switch to the billet block after you've done everything with the cast block?
That's a hot chunk of al-loo-minium.
The hollow area around pistons are designed for the cooling of the engine. While the rebuilt one is filled with metal. I understand that this gives you higher stiffness, but what about the cooling?
That is a thing of beauty.
How would you compare this billet block to the Crest billet block?
Really neat block, is there a link to blank casts of the gold one?
Michael Cruz oh my haha i guess it takes alot of perfect time to make one, someone really smart!
Is that block anodized or is it like a titanium nitride coating
Watt is the best block for a ej? watt is you dream engine
Good stuff Brett!
How much horsepower could you make with the billet ?
How is the cooling with the billet? There doesn't seem to be a lot of room for coolant to flow around the sleeve.
There is but it's not visible from the top / head surface of the block. Once past the top surface the flange of the sleeve reduces down in diameter to a fairly thin wall thickness leaving a large gap between the outer shell of the block and the sleeve liner support material. As for the small looking holes going from the top face down it's pointless for them to be any bigger than than the holes in the head gasket which are usually quite small to evenly regulate the flow and hence temperature between all the cylinders.
Worth having a billet block for a street/track car if money wasn't an issue?
can you effectively measure the rockwell rating on the two different blocks? Like steel, The HRC rating makes a huge difference.
What about cooling cf the standard 2.5 block?
Certainly, everything covered in the video is important, but I'm curious if the billet material itself is stronger than the casting? Generally billet parts are stronger than cast parts, even if they have the same features and geometries, I wonder if that is contributing in this case as well.
I'm curious on the weight difference compare to the stock block
Me, watches video: yeah i should get a billet one
Me: looks it up online: yeah, that aint ever gonna happen.
what about tthe heads? will the stock heads work with this?
Noted. Thanks
so what's the weight difference
ITS ALUMINUM! and if you think about it, the amount of extra aluminum to power is probably so insignificant it doesn't matter.
Water jacket size look lot smaller compare to the original block, would that create a cooling issue ?
actually very similar, and water temps have tested to be 100% reliable
Is billet alu gonna expand under heat like forged do?
What about thermal expansion and dissimilar material ?
all good
Is their anything like this for the FA20 in the wrx? Looking to make big power on that platform
Great Video! Thanks
but does the cooling isn`t compromised? those cooling pockets look tiny
gkkamas123 (xKAMASx) might run meth
How does this billet block compare to say an IAG Stage 4 Extreme Closed Deck 2.5? I would really like to know which one is better
How much does the empty billet block weigh compared to the cast block ?
Can the billet block be stroked and bored to 2.8L like Crawford used to do with 2.2L semi closed deck blocks?
Very good review
What's the weight difference between the OEM to the billet block?
Nothing an extra 600 HP wouldn't pull mate!
Would it be possible to get one shipped to the U.S.A.? For 08 Subaru Sti.
Australian companies ship things all the time to the US. Performance parts go back and forth between the US and Kangarooland every day.
Can you legally put one in your 08 STI? Probably except in California.
Probably cost a couple hundred, and don't skimp on the insurance... UPS likes to lose custom-made engines. ;)
IAG sells them for WIllall racing in the USA, search IAG.
Edgar Lopez Absolutely not. These blocks are strictly for Australian residents only.
Phoenix racing, you guys get all the good stuff. Shit I'm over here risking getting deported because I'm Mexican jk.
Thanks guys I'll check them out, and see what's the worst that can happen in California.
Here ya go
www.iagperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=42349
That's a beautiful block, but how do you make up for the lack of real cooling passages?
Thor Dehr a big ass oil cooler better antifreeze and a massive alloy radiator with aero so all the air runs though the said radiator, I am 100% sure would be more then enough to compensate for the slightly smaller water jackets I don't even think it would be a problem tbh.I think this block is absolutely awesome and if money wasn't a problem I'd buy at least 3 like now lol
azz187 I could see that. It IS a gorgeous lump. I'd have trouble putting it in a car though.
I'd want it in my living room.
Aluminum is extremely conductive thermally, cast iron is 50 vs 160 for aluminum. Basically the heat from combustion will transfer throughout the whole block extremely quickly.
how many miles can you put on a forged short block before it needs a rebuild?
once you notice oil consumption?
Young Rik hvac if your ring gaps are set properly, you will be consuming just a little bit of oil. Factory gapping is too tight for higher than factory boost, so people always end up blowing ringlands.
Can this be installed on a Toyota GT86? I want an answer please. And how much will it cost?
Why are the water jackets so small on the billet?
How about the subarus phase 1 ej20g series closedeck blocks will this work with liners/darton sleeves??
Do u guys build stock ej25 with a better case
yes we do many opitons like this, best call us 0297674545
Could you rough one of those out on a pcnc 1100?
Going to be an interesting build for sure, wish I was this clients mate haha
Where do I get one? In Canada mate !
WHAT ARE SOME DOWN SIDES TO CLOSED DECK BLOCKS?
They're more difficult and expensive to make. That is the only real downside to closed deck blocks in general.
Cooling issues are a case by case basis - many closed deck blocks like the (R35 GT-R's) VR38 aren't wanting for cooling volume/flow. It especially helps that aluminum, unlike iron/steel, is particularly good at transferring heat, which is why it's the go-to metal for heat sinks.
VIsubby cooling has a LOT more due to surface area than volume
Hence why a lot of sleeves now a days if the water surrounds them are ribbed
cooling, but thats why you let he engine relax after a few pulls.
Closed deck blocks have to be sand cast instead of die cast. This means a big increase in the cost of production long term. Also due to the less precise method of sand casting more material needs to be added to compensate and the design less elaborate. The number I have been given is that a die cast block is 30% lighter between fully sand cast and full die cast but that sounds like a lot more than I what I would personally expect. With the design being less elaborate it can be seen with that on fully sand cast blocks they don't have the fine ribs and lots of small weight saving points as seen at 4:05 in the video. Though I am gong to take an educated guess and say that modern closed deck blocks probably use a hybrid of both techniques- a sand core for around the bores but with die casting for the rest.
@mtrproformance what is your opinion on a blastplate on a wrx 5speed transmission?
The strength of the billet block comes almost completely from the fact that it's forged rather than cast. If Willall took the time to match the weight saving geometry of the OEM block through extra machining, it would still be vastly stronger than the OEM.
Boxer engines look so cool
Thank you!!! I love you tech subi dude.
what is the weight difference!? Been asked so many times... not a single answer :-/
should get some billet heads to go with that black :)
by the look of the water jackets, it seems like cooling would be an issue with the willall block
One thing to remember though is that aluminum is extremely conductive thermally. I believe cast iron is around 50, and aluminum is 160. I'm a welder by trade, and when I weld on aluminum, the whole work piece heats up almost instantly, vs carbon steel which can take a long time to conduct the heat away from the weld zone. I think that block even though its closed deck, would be better at dissipating heat than an open cast iron deck.
Now to get an $20k to buy this and another $20 for the transmission. Id be out $70k+ if i started with the Willall block but i guess i might win the lottery any day now so yay!
Don't forget brakes!
As much as its great billet,
I don't see the justification in price, I 'd rather stay with cast block, when the engine start pricing higher than the rest of the car its more about aesthetics at that point not performance
Can you make me one out of titanium
machine7269 Or cast iron 👌
machine7269 or magnesium
machine7269 it would cost like 100k lol maybe more honestly
magnesium vw made gearboxes they burn in a fire. would be nice to see
troy windsor so light and strong though
great knowledge
I think this is the part when i start to sell my organs :D:D
:)
put in a museum
"$15,000." - MRT
"I'm just gonna find a cash machine." - Lebowski
very nice video!!
wow! Lets hear what's it sounds like when its put together!!!!!!!!!!
That's a magic block!
Billet is fxxx dope job done we know name of race and good price bravo
Can it hold a rev beyond 9000rpm?
10500rpm
Who cares about the weight difference ? With the overall "solidity" of that block you can push WAY more than enough hp/tq to MORE than compensate for the weight difference. That block is as bullet proof as youre gonna get. In regards to one comment, yeah, imagine if it was made out of titanium....it would be CRAZY lightweight and incredibly strong.
I completely agree with your point on the weight, I don't think it would even be that much more than standard in which saving grams per engine works out to a big saving long term. But with the material I don't fully agree with you. Titanium by volume has a 61% greater weight than Aluminium. Titanium can however make up for this by being much more than 61% stronger and were relevant much better fatigue resistance properties. So what this means is that something made from Titanium can be lighter but only when it can make made in such a way where it ends up having less material being used due to it's higher strength. For example a Titanium bike frame will have a significantly thinner wall thickness in the tubes. Now the issue with a fully machined engine block out of Titanium is that there is a lot of places where the material can't be removed due to access. Can't machine a cavity if the cutter can't get to it. Most of the outside block profile would be more time consuming but still totally doable, it would end up looking quite similar to the original block with all the little cut outs but perhaps with extra thin ridges added to help. But around other areas it can't be accessed to remove the material or alternatively a minimum amount of material is required regardless of strength, such as the width of the sealing surface. So I think that it could possibly be lighter but I suspect it wouldn't be by much and it would require in the region of x4 the machining time as a rough guess. This isn't easy to explain so hopefully it makes sense and I open to correction.
Here is a relevant article should you be interested:
mobilitymgmt.com/articles/2010/03/01/aluminum-vs-titanium.aspx
What happened to willall? And why is IAG producing their blocks now?
Might have to settle for a $6,000 Crawford performance built ej255 and only do 700hp. Maybe the price will come down from $15k someday.
Amazing over 1khp
EMM AAAA TEEE Pefomance BABYYY
For the people who gave a thumbs down, please explain below.
So rated at over 1000hp for how long? Bet it doesn't get as many miles as the std block in daily use, especially if you want to spend a weekend skiing the snow fields then start it from cold and drive down the mountains with those tight clearances. Why don't you show a FEA of the block with load inputs and thermal gradients, then we can really see the "meat" left in the block where the toolcutter couldn't reach boiling the engine as it sits in traffic on a 40 degree Sydney afternoon. Building this into a track day car would be awesome and should be said so as well as recognising the shortcomings for road use, pity this views like a sales commercial then a detailed analysis. Do the liners have stepped top flanges or is it still relying on the thermal movement design the factory used on its fast cooling block verses your slow cooling one? Did the designer build in larger radii for the webs after FEA. At those big hp's you'd be running a lot higher ring tension then standard, so more TDC wear even when cruising and running cold. Meh bet that block cost the owner more then a buck per mile of life.
Is this what ended up in the SJ1000?
I say Subaru went cheap! I saw They had the EA series motors which were a closed deck design and that is a casted block.
heres an idea... why not make a cast iron block if you need strength?
As for cost, before the blanks are even machined the aluminum is a few grand if raw form.
Jesus! There's almost no water jacket on the billet block. How is overheating not a major issue with that block?
Nik Coffman that's what I was thinking
soooo fancy !!!
M RO sewwwwww faunnnnnnncyyyyyyyyy
Sick!
I'd do it for torque and horsepower not for weight loss
How often should I change my girly calendar?
God i want one..
Same ol story with 2.5s . Will pop over and over again whatever you do to them. Theres a reason JDM cars have 2.0 twion scroll setups instead.
mantazini we have the 2 litre motors in the uk its rare youll find a 2.5 litre so already we have the better motors
Well , i'm in UK too . had V3 STI , V4 STI and V7 STI all being JDM .
New age UK cars have 2.0 from 2002 to 2005 only , UK hawk has 2.5 engine
with constant ringland failures . This subject is no news to me , i'm
friends with several tuners and mappers and quite aware of the 2.5
engine problems.
yah i was gunna get a scoob but knew theyd have problems and need a rebuild at 100k or so or the chances are it would be thrashed and with awd it wouldnt be as much fun not being able to do on the spot burnouts at lights so i got a 2 litre 5 cylinder turbo FWD
the 2.5 is a problem in itself haha
Most cars will need a rebuild after 100k if you trash them , some wont even get there depending on your mechanical sympathy. Spot burnouts at lights , well it's 4wd and i'm not 17 anymore so i rather track my cars . Saying that i had an EVO 6 after scoobs and it was more rewarding and suitable for my driving style. Now i'm on RWD and thats the whole different ball game again.