I HATED my Cetus - Now I ❤ it! Mellow FLY RepRapFirmware conversion
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- Thanks to JLCPCB for sponsoring this video! PCBA from $0 (Free Setup, Free Stencil) jlcpcb.com/RHS
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My CETUS MK3 has become one of my favorite 3D printers, but it wasn't always like this. I'm sure many of you have an old 3D printer somewhere in a corner that you at first thought was great but later realized that it doesn't properly work, was too loud, or was just a pain to use. Today I'll show you how you can bring one of these abandoned machines back to life by simply switching the control board with one that runs RepRapFirmware, uses state-of-the-art stepper drivers, and has WiFi connectivity with an awesome web interface! Let's find out more.
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Detailed website article: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/cetus...
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🎥 Related videos:
How I fixed my CETUS extruder: • (HOW) I fixed the Ugly...
Chris Riley's video on the FLY E3: • Fly RRF-E3 - Mainboard...
Teaching Tech's video on the FLY E3: • Converting a Prusa to ...
📖 Further Links & References:
Holder, adapter board, configuration & PS profile: github.com/CNCKitchen/CetusMK...
Information and Configuration on the Mellow FLY: teamgloomy.github.io/fly_e3_p...
Latest releases of the RepRapFirmware port: github.com/gloomyandy/RepRapF...
Ender-3 conversion: teamgloomy.github.io/ender_3_...
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Chapters
00:00 Introduction
01:44 Mellow FLY RRF Boards
02:57 Benefits of Conversion
04:50 Adapter Board and JLCPCB promo
06:50 CETUS Hardware Conversion
08:22 Firmware Configuration
10:58 Summary
#3Dprinting #cetus #RepRapFirmware
DISCLAIMER: This video was sponsored by JLCPCB. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Over time my cetus motors got hotter and hotter during operation, eventually chewing filament after the raft without fail. They should just ditch the proprietary stuff, the market won't tolerate that anymore.
This has happened to me too, and sometimes it doesn't even get through the raft. Very frustrating
I'm preaty that's broke an entire extroder head for me
@@mondair99 Throw some heatsinks on it
@@Lucas_sGarage thanks boss, I'll try to remember to keep you in the loop
@@mondair99 Sure, take care
Did a very similar mod with a colleague's DaVinci 3D printer, and he was SO glad to be finally able to use open source software, any slicer and any filament he wanted.
This is one of the things I love about 3D printing as a tinkerers' hobby, the mechanical principles are comparatively simple (if you got four motors and parts for those motors to move, you've got the basics) and the software side is so open that you can get pretty much everything that can command stepper motors and relays to run gcode. (I'm oversimplifying a bit, but really, for something that creates physical objects, 3D printers are incredibly easy to understand even for idiots like myself. Like, for comparison I don't think building your own injection molding machine is anywhere near as simple.)
I got into things with the Ender3, and after tinkering with it for two years I think the only stock components that remain are the aluminium frame and motors xD
What a coincidence! A week ago I completed the electronics conversion of my MK2. I did it with an arduino mega + ramps 1.6 + TMC 2130 + raspberry PI 3 so that I could go with klipper. I didn't want to replace the very cool PT100 thermocouple for a shitty thermistor, so I went for a max31865 SPI adapter board. I also upped the voltage to 24 V as running the heating cartridge at the standard 19V was a pain. Now it is a pretty amazing machine!
I did something very similar on my MK1 last week too. Lol. I used an mks robin nano v3 with tmc 2209 drivers. It's got a touch screen and wifi but the screen is too big to mount anywhere on the cetus. What power supply did you go with? My heated bed is super weak on 19v. It draws 30w. I did the math and going to 24v should get it closer to 60w. Unfortunately, I did have to ditch the pt100 because it failed and I opted to replace the entire extruder/hotend. I ended up going with the kp3s titan extruder. It performs great and now I just use standard mk8 nozzles. Last night I put a 3d touch on it, so no more frustrating warped build plate.
@@inoahmann7542 For the time being I am running it from my lab bench PSU and I have a step down converter for the RPI, Arduino and fan. With everything powered it draws about 3.2~3.5 A @ 24 V so I was thinking about getting an EPP-120S-24 PSU, which has a very small footprint. There are also more powerful (but larger) versions if you want to plug the heating bed.
@@urano1988 thanks! I think I'll go with that same power supply. Maybe a slightly bigger one if I can still fit it in my electronics enclosure. If I need to I can limit the power to my hotend and bed to stay under the 120w limit.
I currently upgrading my Cetus MKII and MKIII I replace the Cetus extruder to BIQU H2 extruder. I also replace the TinyFab MCU/mainboard to Melow FLY RRF E3 Pro with the integrated max31865 SPI PT100 IC. And because of the shorter heater cartridge for BIQU H2 extruder I use a Mellow 24V 70W heater, and increase the voltage from 19V to 24V. And I will also design an extra PCB for the PSU connector and for the Z axes hardware break by a relay. This feature is on the MKIII mainboard and also designed in the TinyFab mainboards as well.
A pretty interesting board.
Love the PCB adaptor 😌 and would definitely be interested to see more details about HP MJF.
What an amazing project. Good to see that there are open source boards that can make old hardware more functional
I am interested in a strength test. Maybe even in comparison to standard SLS parts.
+1
MJF is superior in z-axis strength and consistency to SLS and is superior in every way besides specialized material availability. I own two 5210 MJF machines and would be happy to provide CNC Kitchen some parts for testing!
+1
@@mkmachining7957 What is the reason for this? Layer height? Temperature? Maybe Stefan can find out.
Yeah.. that fancy nylon print would be a great test subject checking for accuracy and strength.
Original cetus circuit board had a vase gcode bug. I think they implemented vase as delta Z moves but the firmware math truncated the remainders. Now running duet and happy. A good mod is a 1kg force linear spring ($8-20) to counterbalance Z weight which eliminates the Z stepper brake and prevents the nozzle from crashing into my heated glass bed with no AC power..
Cheers-Peter
Yes please! I'd really enjoy seeing a CNC style strength test! Your strength test videos are some of my favorite videos! If you need a suggestion on videos series please also consider doing a resin accuracy and strength test for msla! Lots of resin are for sale but not many engineers test them. Having a series for people that want to use them for engineering products would really be helpful.
Perfect for my Printrbot Simple metal, it's gathering dust for a while now, which is sad ... a board like this would bring some well deserved life back into it :)
Thanks for this video. Nice to see theat you transformed your Cetus into a good machine. I use a Fly 3 pro on my Ender 3v2. Ik like it a lot. No more recompilations of the firmware when I do a slight modification of the hardware. No extra Raspberry with Octoprint which doubles the amount of complications. I love this solution.
Please remember to change the gcode dialect in your favourite slicer from Marlin to Reprap. ;)
Does it work with a BL touch or CR touch? As I learned more about my E3 V2 I realized I can turn it into a really nice printer instead of buying a different one. My CR touch and Jyers firmware is a joy. I like the options this fly 3 adds.
I'm also a minimalist. Any hardware I can install that will do the work of multiple pieces of hardware, I'm all for.
@@dangerous8333 I used the FLY with a BL touch clone. Twotrees I believe. It's a bit more ciitical to ajust compared to the original.
What an amazing project.👍👍👍
My SKR Mini E3 broke and I was ready to buy a Robin mainboard and then suddenly I came across this video. What a perfect coincidence! Now I'm waiting for my Mellow Fly and before watching this I didn't even know it was a thing :)
Open source is best source! I do like the replaceable drivers, but I would be lying if I said I ever replaced one before, never needed to! lol. Love that RRF is implementing klipper systems as klipper is honestly a pain in the butt :/ Glad this worked out, will have to try it out on one of our machines!
Wow, great work!
Great video as always
Thanks for your big work into the community :-)
Finally, someone who reviewed jlcpcb 3d prints! 😅
This is exactly what I was looking for. I love the Cetus but it needs some slicer tuning and it just can't. I'll have to attempt this one myself.
Love this project, this exactly what I did top my Printrbot Simple Metal
I’m glad more boards are starting to use reprap firmware and isn’t limited to duet boards only anymore especially since duet boards always seem to be pretty big and expensive since your usually paying for a bunch of features you don’t need
Huh, literally just ordered one of the pro versions of this for my ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Probably a good sign to see it here!
You’ll love it. Significant upgrade!
Hi @CNC Kitchen, Pronterface can also transfer small letters by adding ' in front of a letter. P'A'S'S'W'O'R'D is Password. That is not quite as convenient but for once entering a Hotspot and Password...
Thanks for the info!
This really felt like an add for the Mellow board
More like RRF commercial
Tried to show the good and the bad, but I'm seriously happy with the hardware and firmware.
@@CNCKitchen I am a long time viewer, trust your videos, but still it sounded a bit like a commercial. But it's a cool board too!
@@CNCKitchen to be honest, working with RRF so far felt to me as if i was doing a commercial as well
It's just so user friendly
The PCB design isn't a whole lot of work, tbh. As Peter says above, RRF is the real star here.
The time invested into RRF development will probably be hundreds of times that of the Mellow PCB - which is why it's a bit of a shame that the RRF devs likely aren't supported by purchases of these boards... (I suspect a significant chunk of the Duet boards' prices goes towards firmware development, hence the higher prices.)
If I ever need q&a for a custom board I know who to send a free one to! Seriously, great video and now I'm more convinced than ever to buy an $80 printer on Bangood and just swap out the mobo and start printing.
Awesome.. This is a great video.. I currently have a smoothie board running my Cetus. But I will try this one soon.. BTW the original cetus heater block uses Pt100 as temp sensor. The pro version has a variant supporting pt100 so chose that if you don't want to switch original temp sensor
Thanks for the info!
Really enjoy these type of videos ... like putting a nice QUIET engine in the car so when you drive by my house, I don't even hear you.
Ive been really looking forward to this video, ive had my mk3 for about 1.5 years now and have had mixed feelings the whole time. The fire and forget software was nice at first but the interface for tuning profiles is absolute mess. Im preforming this swap as soon as I'm able to. Thanks for your work Stefan o7
Happy to hear that! It's a great project for a rainy weekend.
Good luck destroying a great machine. 👍 Convert it into a Mk3S+. Because there is nothing better.
Stefan, what a great video! I like RRF myself. But please, tell us that you got the board from the manufacturer at the start of the video!
Nice video! Thanks for the inspiration!
My pleasure!
The MJF is interesting, i've used JLC a few times for PCB's but if i want stuff like the Orbiter/Sherpa mini etc i can now actually get it printed without buying an entire new extruder, since i have an Orbiter and would like to test the Sherpa mini that could be useful..
@5:10 I wish someone would make one of those awesome adapter boards for the CR10s-Pro, I really want to upgrade to 32-bit and those FLY boards look pretty, er, fly... for a wifi. 😎
Thanks for the most excellent video.
The CR-10 is internally very much like the Ender-3, so a conversion doesn't need an adapter board and most of the connectors should be reusable. Maybe check the Discord.
@@CNCKitchen The CR10s-Pro has a 30-pin ribbon connector. I did see a breakout board a while ago somewhere which was 30-pin to JSTs, but I think the chap only made a few.
The alternative would be to chop the large connector off and, split the ribbon cable add male JST connectors.
Haven't tried the fly boards myself but I'm on the Mellow discord server and there's tons of good-spirit community activity and _very_ active engagement from Mellow themselves on these fly boards, troubleshooting, iterative improvements and custom versions etc. So I wouldn't worry about these boards getting deprecated anytime soon, their adoptation is likely gonna spread, along with more firmware development and new forks.
I'm not too big on speaking about these kinds of companies, I find they often disappoint in some way. But I gotta be honest - Mellow's community engagement and openness to community feedback and suggestions has me softening a bit. They even have a dedicated discord channel for suggestions 😊 And funnily enough, my last two suggestions pretty much both got the same replies (within roughly 20 minutes): "already in design" and "already in development".
I also have a Cetus MK3 so I really enjoyed your video. I have a question. Can I still use the cetus' optional heatbed and lcd after that upgrading? I think the connector looks different, but I'm not sure.
I wish I had a Cetus! :) (but I already have an RRF Fly 3 board that I'm going to put into my very old and crappy Delta printer! And I expect a lot from it!).
I just did this with a Dobot Mooz, I used a BTT E3 RRF board, it can now print any material, much better printer than the Cetus, but had a terrible main board and closed software.
Nice video, this might be a mod I'll actually try. At the moment the only mods applied to my cetus is a new 80mm Noctua Extruder/Part Cooling fan + adapter, because the stock one was really uncomfortably loud. Although I'm okay with the prints I'm getting out, using something different than the proprietary UPStudio Slicer (which I dislike) with added microstepping capabilities would make this upgrade really worth the effort.
Anyway, thanks for sharing :)
1:05 'and didn't really print well'
**shows perfect benchy**
@10:09 M997 is narrated as "M197". Still, far better English than my German.
What is with the bed leveling and software Endstops? Is there an option? And what is when the Cetus has a Heated bed?
I like this Projekt! Nice work!
I finally got a new 32 bit board to replace a 6 year old 8 bit one, and I didn't think it was actually possible for my machine to be this quiet.
that was how I felt when upgrading my original CR-10
I had a reverse experience at work. When I built my machine, I built it from the ground up with TMC2208s, and later upgraded to closed loop steppers (the BTT NEMA 17s, great stuff). They're really quiet, became a "silent but the fans" printer. No money for Noctuas here.
Then at work I was tasked to revive an old small CNC router, and found an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 setup with the classic A4988s there that I could use, and heck that thing screams, I had no idea they were that loud normally.
Looks interesting for Kingroon K3PS
Wish this was posted 3 weeks ago. I just bought a duet 2 to convert my Cetus MK2 to do just this.
Sorry to hear that. Hope it worked out for you!
@@CNCKitchen I have been messing with it all day. Unfortunately, I have MK2 and you started with a MK3. So there are some variances like trying to get sensorless homing working. I also switched from using the standard hotend to a Slice Copperhead.
Haven't started a print, but I have about 90%+ of the printer verified working. Last thing is swapping the sensorless homing with a capacitive proximity sensor for the Z axis.
I have one of the pro boards in my ender 3 pro and in my opinion made a night and day difference in performance. I bounce between RRF and Klipper on it for testing and playing around. Also yay I saw my GCode Viewer on the video :D
Great work!
is that a typo/error at 4:30 where (after telling that linear advanced is also available) you say that even linear advance will be available and can reduce ghosting. I think you meant input shaping instead of linear advanced in that moment, right? Grüße aus NRW
Yes this was a pretty glaring error. He's definitely meaning input shaping. In RRF Linear advance is called pressure advance btw.
Hello Stephan, my question is do you think that the bigtreetech rrf e3 v1.1 will do the same work as the your presented mellow fly?
Good to see another good competitor entering into the control board space, but as you implied, Duet may be a safer bet in the long term.
Do you have any more of these boards as I can’t seem to see them on your store? Thanks in advance
Will you consider reviewing the Phaetus (or rebranded as Trianglelabs) _'Rapido'_ UHF hotend? It's a high-volume, quality workmanship, mostly nickel-plated copper unit with strong construction and a (up to) 115 watt ceramic heater, that give even the Mosquito Magnum Plus and Supervolcano a run for their money. And it does so while still using the regular M6 reprap/V6 nozzles we already have, or optionally regular Volcano nozzles. Slap a large CHT or Matchless nozzle on that puppy and it might just pass 100mm^3/s. For $99.
I believe the... "contentious" (?) aspects are more than different enough that this one goes clear of Slice's and E3D's patents.
I have a Cetus MK1. This was my first really functioning 3d printer. (After the Buccaneer from Pirate3D with which I only did 2 prints and then it died. And I believe it even arrived later although backed earlier on Kickstarter.)
I am thinking about modifying my Cetus as well because it was a little neat machine, but I am a little afraid that getting to learn all the new stuff about the board and the software driving it will take me too much time.
If it's not your only machine, it's a great learning opportunity, though it will require some time and skill.
I think a Skr1.3 board with stepper drivers on it will be the easiest approach. No need to fiddle around with multiple boards and connections and weird firmwares. Just use Marlin on a SD card, done.
Hey, are you going to test any Pellet Extruders? Its hard to find a good review about quality, retraction and other issues =c
I'd like to have more information on Kicad, like a primer for Mechanical Engineers. I'm still not comfortable enough with PCB manufacture
of course we want to see a strength test
do you think this would be a good idea for upgrading a budget printer?
Curious what filament was used for that orange vasemode print... it was pretty!
That was 3DJake MagicPLA Sunset Sky.
how did u find out the pinout? just testing every ribbon? i need this for a up box with broken main board really bad (dont think the same board will work tho)
I jumped in the 3D printing pool with arm-bands and a float by starting with a Prusa i3 Mk3 a few years ago ;)
But I still find these videos about other printers and their abilities/quirks/fixes fascinating because it's all related and I learn more about 3D printing in general.
do you recommend getting the cetus2 3d printer?
I'm having major DejaVu watching this. Wasn't the same machine pulled off a dusty shelf and a new board added in an earlier video?
I believe his last video about this machine was about fixing the lopsided extruder gear to get consistent extrusions.
Partly, yes. The last one was about the wobbly extruder gear, this one's about the mainboard.
Nice to see RRF ❤️. I use RRF on my machines and adore this firmware. One board, easy config and decent features.... Did I mention very stable as well?
Same here, most of my everyday printers now run RRF. It takes a bit to learn but now I love it!
I liked RRF but the problem for me is that if something doesn't work, the support for it is as useless as windows support. Switched my duet board to Klipper and never looked back since
@@jexom I've honestly been able to find documentation for everything I've ever had issues with. The wiki pages are pretty well written. Though I gotta admit having stuff like a discord server for the vorons which usually run klipper is pretty sweet.
@@jexom On the Duet forum you can literally talk to the developers and they will walk you through your issue. Is that useless?
When will your adapter boards be available? Very interested in converting my mk2
He has the gerber files on on his Github, but i dont which ones to upload to JLCPCB
I klipperized mine, changed the extruder thought because hate custom nozzles
"custom nozzles" ?
@@REDxFROG I assume he meant proprietary
please make custom boards and a video for tronxy x5sa pro
Would this board conversion work on a JG Aurora A5S? The main board for mine broke and I was wanting to replace it with a more feature rich one.
It should work, only the screen might be an issue.
On my Ender 3 Max I have an RRF E3 Pro. I had to switch from an RRF E3 when I added dual axis and didn't have enough steppers left. Firmware and hardware are nice as is discord support. After playing with Klipper for some time now, on my Anycubic Vyper I hope I can run Klipper on these RRF boards in the long run. Why? The camera integration on RRF boards doesn't appeal to me and I need a computer for timelapses.
Mainsaill just added timelapse functionality
@@powersv2 Yeah, and I like it. One more reason I am getting away from Octoprint.
Just a note: At 4:34 you said 'RRF has begun implementing Linear Advance in the latest version' but I believe you meant input shaping, as in the image you show the input shaper test model as well. As Linear advance has been in RRF for quite a few versions now.
Yes, you're right. I was too excited after my Klipper joke and messed it up.
@@CNCKitchen haha worth it since it sums up the community pretty well.
Hopefully I don't come across as a 'but klipper' person, but I'm genuinely interested in your opinion given your knowledge of 3d printing.
From my comparison standpoint, and considering I have several printers running RRF and several with Klipper, I think I prefer klipper slightly more for two reasons:
1. The first and foremost being that I'm a software developer, and so have command-line access where I can deploy scripts and modify any components as I see fit. This is a bit harder with duet.
2. The second being the actual hardware of the Pi being high quality. I have had many issues with the wifi reception with the stock duet antenna and even using add-on antennas. I sometimes send extremely large files and so this can be a pain, whereas the raspberry pi 4 even supports wifi 6, so it caters well to my impatience.
In summary they are both great with slight differences, duet is more user friendly, and klipper more configurable. Almost like macOS vs Linux.
2:57 I don't think I've heard "proprietary" pronounced that way before. I usually hear it as "pro-pry-a-tree" or "pro-pry-a-terry", with emphasis on the "pry".
The more firmware and controller options, the better.
Good point! And all have their place IMO.
How fast is the upload for the wifi? And by linear advance, did you mean input shaper?
ESP8266 boards manage about 500-600kb/s, ESP32 boards can peak at 1.6-1.7Mb/s
What is the difference between RepRap firmware and Marlin?
I have an ANET A6 which I de-gutted and replaced their main board with an Arduino 2560 and RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin.
I didn't like their firmware and also the stepper drivers were soldered on the main board.
That was a deal breaker for me. So I replaced their board.
The main difference between marlin and Reprap is that Marlin requires recompiling the firmware to make changes to your settings but with reprap you can edit a plain text file and have it change right then and there. There's a lot of other features as well, but on a day to day basis that's probably the main thing.
@@JasonZnack Thanks
Hi, i got an UpBox+ and i want to do a board swap with a bigtreetech... I want to use a proper slicer, gcodes, add a screen and a card reader and even change the extruder assembly because i hate the tiertime's as it is... Can someone give me some hints?
There are a few time where you say "linear advance" instead or "resonance compensation" or "input shaping" at least one was obvious in context but from then I was wondering whether you meant linear advance or not each time you said it.
Would that conversion be possible on a TierTime UP Mini 2? This printer as it is is totally unreliable which is frustrating for a very expensive machine... Thanks in advance.
Just curious, Why hide your local ip in the video?
Its not like it can be misused.
This is off topic perhaps, but what ever happened to that material creep test? (What would you build your Voron out of now if you did it again?)
Parts are still "ageing" in my office 😉
For the moment I'd just go for ABS or ASA but I also had good results with annealed CF Nylon parts.
I love RRF
"I'm sure many of you have an old 3D printer in a corner [...]"
Bro when I started watching this channel I didn't even have _one_ let alone some old one gathering dust! And now I just have one as well...
At least it seems you made the right choice! Thanks for watching.
@@CNCKitchen Gotta say this channel helped a lot with gathering information for the build and my 1st prints.
You mention linear advance a few times when I believe you are referring to resonance compensation/input shaping instead
Yes, you're right. I was too excited after my Klipper joke and messed it up.
Any links for the extruder stepper mod?
The STL can be found here: www.prusaprinters.org/prints/77611-cetus-mk3-new-idler-for-improved-extruder-gear
Check the full video on TH-cam about the mod: th-cam.com/video/a3oQy6v3MrA/w-d-xo.html
@@CNCKitchen thank you!
Oh man. My cetus mk2 prints great but its so loud. This is a bit of a project just to make it more quiet.
Exactly what my problem was! If the pinout of the extruder ribbon cable is the same, my adapter board should work as well!
4:29 what is the problem here? why is there always this klipper/reprap firmare hating? did I miss something?
My Cetus Mk2 is my printer in the corner.
I purchased Duet 6HC boards with the two RatRigs I ordered just because of the nonsense Thomas suffered. I prefer to stick with those who are professional. Once I have these printers up and running I'm going to convert my CR6SE to a Duet board.
Great choice! Have the Mini 5+ still in my Prusa and am super happy with it!
Hmm... Wondering if this could work on my old original CR-10? 😒
Yes, should be compatible with the CR-10.
i would not get a board that runs rrf. i go fpr the genuine duet boards. after all problems i had with marlin back in the days and almost quit the hobby i ordered a duet wifi. and the support i got from dc42 made me a returning customer. all my printers my custom built voron/hevort hybrid. my tridebt idex. and my ender 3 and flsun sr all run duet boards and i think its worth to support the duet crew
0:07 my "old printer in the corner" is the buccaneer 3d printer, from first hand experience i can confirm that that printer was garbage.
Please make it wireless! That would be so cool!
It’s running RRF, it IS wireless with control through the WiFi.
@@christophmuller3511 oh I mean wireless by connecting it to a battery
@@jamescerven4400 yeah, was not finished with the video yet…
I replaced all the 8 bit boards with 32bit skr boards
i cant find the adapter board did you delete it?
also could you release the desgine for the mount?
I’d be surprised if there wasn’t a weird issue with running a 24v at 18v
strength test?.... Yes please!!!!!!
You mentioned Marlin and Klipper but you didn't say why RepRap was better suited to the Cetus in your opinion
it would seem that both boards are no longer available 😕
My first 3D printer was a Tiertime. The proprietary firmware and terrible software led me to doing one print, then putting the thing back in the box and returning it. Except UPS never picked up the box and the return window passed, so it's been sitting in my apartment for three years. Maybe it's time to add decent electronics and bring it back to life. It's not doing much good in that box.
Do it because the general design of most of their machines is not too bad.
You must have too much money to leave new machines laying around😐
That's kind of true, REDxFROG. I've had some sort of project in mind for years but I'm at the point where a second 3D printer would save me time and effort, so resurrecting it seems like a good project. It's unfortunate to waste money on things, an expensive lesson in just buying a Prusa i3 the first time! But, it's not like I tossed it into a landfill, it's in the original packaging and is ready to be transformed into something useful, which Stefan has motivated me to do. So ultimately, it's not a big loss (compared to if I just kept using it, getting mad at the software every time I needed to print something, and giving up 3D printing).
@@JonathanRockway nah. Put it away and get more Prusa. Even the mini is just so good. :-)
Too late! Just finished disassembling it :)
"buttclipper" sounds like a really interesting concept. :D
@Stefan du solltest deinen mk3s definitiv auch auf rrf upgraden ;) scheiß auf das Rambo-Board, hau ein duet rein und das Teil performed wie kein anderes und du hast die DWC ;)
perfect impression of Klipper fans, i love the firmware but they're often a bit much
But...... _Klipper!_
I'm a klipper fan, I think its great software. And sure I was a little sad Tom decided not to use it on his voron. But then the way the klipper fanboys harrased tom and most likely pushed him away from klipper for good really makes me angry. I just hate it when a few loud idiots ruin a good thing for everyone else.
@@jamesmelemede5610 reread your comment but slowly, all your hate is going towards a person with his own opinion. you are going all out on Domenico and even pull in Thomas (who even isnt even mentioned except for your comment)
really great job of not putting the klipper community in a bad light really really great job.
Daddy chill .
a "JLCPCB " request, I'm looking to mod my old printer ( wanaho i3 v2.1 12v SKR 1.3 upgraded and with BLTouch ) with break out board so I just have one cable between the extruder and the main board. So a generic video on how to set something like that up.
hey Stefan what about reprap firmware port for skr boards it worth?
The firmware on the Fly boards is the same port as used for the SKR boards by teamgloomy. As long as you are using a supported STM32 chip all the features of RRF are supported and are usually current to a production release Duet3d RRF and only a revision or two behind on the latest Beta builds. Very functional.
Should be a very similar experience. Definitely worth trying out, though I don't have any experience with SKR boards.
Have you ever used a FilaPrint surface?
Nope, never.
Looks like a electrical/soldiering knowledge is needed
"linear advance" you meant input shaper at 4:30
Yes, you're right. Got carried away by my joke.
@@CNCKitchen You are so patient with all the guys who post comments without looking at the other previous comments.