I use a heatgun to take that inner fan off, it helps a lot. Also, adding gasoline to disel fuel in ratio of 1:3 and running the heater at full blast for 20- 30 minutes helps to clean the guts and prolong the intervals between major cleanings. Thanks for the video and bearing number. Good luck on your new experiments and remember that safety is always number one! God bless you.
Ingressing. A little gasoline helps clean em out eh. I'll have to give that a try some time... Although, the heaters that I run on diesel never have any issue with build up... So far, haha.
I saw this on my homepage - not expecting another video so soon, and not specifically needing info on how to replace the motor, I skipped over it. Another update, fantastic!
Haha.... yeah... I normally do Sunday and Wednesday... but I'm trying to get caught up... this video isn't an experiment so I wanted to get it out quickly so I decided to release my experiment video Saturday and quickly edited this motor video for today. I highly suspect that most of my regular viewers won't be interested in this, but many people replacing a motor will be.
You can pull the brush springs back so they rest on the top of the slot, making it easier to insert the commutator. Then release the springs back into the slot.
3:50 They are INCREDIBLY easy to disassemble. I noticed 3 rubber isolation pads on the forward (outlet) side of the heat exchanger. Presumably there should have been 4? Quality control error I guess. 9:05 I'd call it a "spacer ring", or possibly "stabilizer bar" because of the extensions. It's a "spacer-stabilizer bar-ring"; LOL. 14:35 YES! Super awesome that you point this out. The first time I had my unit apart that lip was driving me crazy. I was just trying to mash it together then I decided to use more than 2 brain cells and engage my eyeballs.
Yes... it's almost like they put some thought into these needing to be serviced from time to time... that's an odd thing these days. I have only ever noticed two isolation pads but assume that there should be one on each corner, yes. Yeah... I'm sure they call it something like the "motocentric, case locating, stabilization, yoke assembly" LOL ... yes, I've seen videos of others struggling, so I decided to mention it.
Just a small thing. When re-installing the centre of the motor shaft I have always found it better to tie back the brushes with thin thread or cotton. This reduces the possibility of damage to the brushes. Once the shaft is in place just pull the cotton out :) Great channel btw :)
Thanks for the comment. I have worked on starter motors and winch motors mostly, and I have used this technique with zip ties ... Your idea would work well on these small motors 👍 Cheers !
Definitely a great tutorial on how to replace the blower motor and also on how to replace the motor bearings. The motor bearings are often the first part that has to be replaced after a few thousands hours of operation. BTW, some Chinese diesel heater blower units have balanced fan wheels. They make small little cutouts in the factory to balance them. These balanced units run less noisily and the bearings last longer.
I recorded a long rant about the armature being balanced and decided to not include it because it went on for way too long ... haha. Any decent motor will be balanced ... It would be nice if they also all balanced the fan(s) ... but sadly they don't.
@@HB-et5iv Yeah... a person could do some fine tuning in this for sure. I'd be happy if I could get mine to run for more than a few days on waste oil ...
Usually there is a little slot or hole in the front of the brush holder...normally you can push the brushes all the way in to holder and put a paperclip or something in the hole or slot and lock them all the way back...now you can install the rotating part in the housing and than instal the backplate with the brushes and not risk the wires getting crushed because of the magnetic field...just before it is completely set you just pull out the paperclips and the brushes are set into place....hopefully this makes your life a little easier in the future when working on electric motors 😁
Interesting. I have never noticed that before. Most of the motors that I work on are starter motors. That would make things easier. WIth bigger motors I use zip ties to hold the brushes and start the assembly with the rotor in the magnets and slide the end cap on after. Good stuff 👍
I love channels without background music. Can always add my preferred noise myself, if needed. My 2cents referring to this topic. Man, what an incredible job, explaining just everything the same time you manage to go straightforward without any time wasting bs at all. That's either a lot of practice or you're a natural. You may as well try to make a career as an actor with your attitude and talent. Mechanic are underpaid anyhow. I'm really impressed. Makes me think to practice a bit for better videos.
Thanks for that comment. I feel the same way. I sometimes add music and on my other channel I do it in almost every video... I don't understand it, but the majority of people want some soundtrack and leave positive comments about my editing when I do.... but I dislike it, haha. That's very kind of you to say... I don't know that it's a natural talent or practice, perhaps a bit of both and being somewhat confident about what I'm talking about... and the magic of editing, haha. Most of the little add in clips at the first of the video, end and me talking directly to the camera... they take several takes to get the words out.
Right on... I appreciate it. I didn't' expect that most people would want to watch this.... it was more for those who were replacing a motor... but thanks !
lol, the first thing I did when I got my Diesel heater, was to take the housing apart. I knew that the machine probably was not assembled very well. The pump was loose. the wires were not well routed. The wires had no grommets through the sheet metal. The screw in tank nipple was loose. So yeah. Definitely was not assembled to my specifications. Credit to opening my unit and checking goes to David McLuckie. Shout out.
I find the easiest way to get the black fan off is by pressing a coin on the centre spindle with both of your thumbs whilst pulling on the edges of the fan with your fingers. It just pops off with ease.
I have seen that their is a high pressure pipe system that they can connect to your dpf and clean out all the gunk, by running some sort of liquid through it , that could be the solution, drill a hole into the chamber and attached hard pipe , some how run some sort of solvent through it and suck it out through exhaust, every one snd again when turned of
Tbf if the solvent could evaporate, could just pump it into the chamber and see if it delodges anything , pump and suck maybe and the rest would just disappear
For people trying to replicate, it might be worth mentioning the gasket your heater probably "lost" somewhere along its journey but which some people may want to replace if it breaks during disassembly :)
@@HB-et5iv Yes, I would suggest using all of the gaskets. This heater is a test bed for all sorts of experiments and I literally take it apart 4-5 times a day, so I don't always use gaskets. I'm also not sleeping in my garage, so I'm not too concerned about CO. I'm also not convinced that any CO can / will escape, because the system is under positive pressure from the combustion fan... The gasket is pointless as there is a large opening where the air goes into the burn chamber. The pressure on that area is equal to the area at the gasket surface, but there is less resistance. That being said would still recommend doing it the way the manufacturer intended.
Once you open the motor, if the carbon brushes are not flat against the copper ring, then take them out and file them flat. Put them back in one of the springs on mine was weak, so I took a small pair of pliers and gave it one more turn so it had more tension on the carbon. The motor is going well now. It is a very bad design as the springs are too weak.
Generally, Brushes are shaped to conform to the shape of the contacts, for more contact area... filing them flat would reduce this, if I'm understanding you correctly. Brush springs are generally purposely just strong enough to make the brushes contact the rotating assembly. They do this because 1. More pressure = more friction / resistance. This wastes power and causes more heat. and 2. More pressure means your brushes don't' last nearly as long. If there is a bad design choice here, it is the fact that the brushes are sliding in plastic.This should be metal.
Fluid as in water or fluid as in fuel ? My exhaust gets too hot to collect water, but last night I did have oil dripping out of my ventilation system, haha.
The ‘damper’, as you call it, in the one motor end-cap is to allow axial expansion as the motor temperature changes, without affecting the commutator to brush position. There is always one bearing in an electric motor that can move axially, for this reason. Sometimes the bearing can move within the sleeve and sometimes the outer bearing support can be movable.
That's an interesting take on it... I'm curious if you are guessing at this or if you know from engineering. I have never seen a commutator that is so short that the thermal expansion of the motor would affect the brushes at all... this would be a few thousandths of an inch. It makes sense that the motor should be able to move axially so that nothing binds. I don't know a lot about electric motors. From what I have seen, motors typically have some sort of thrust washers on each end of the rotor so that the movement is limited in this way.
Those small PMDC motors aren't generally worth servicing, except as an item of curiosity. But, cool that you took it apart and showed us what was wrong with it. I'm currently playing with a 2kW BLDC motor. They don't have brushes, but they need a controller to work.
Wow. Did I hear fuel heater? Last time I commented on your video and gave my 2 cents, I asked you about preheating the in comming fuel. I also ask you to check out the geet reactors. I don't know if you remember? But anyway congratulations. I'm glad you figured it out on how to burn waste oil. Great video brother. Keep making more videos, I like your style.
you made it look incredibly simple to take out those two fans. In my case, it was a major pain in the neck to take out the inner blow fan when I had to replace noisy fans from a cheapest ever chinese diesel heater.
Hmmm. I have had mine off a few times to clean it, so it probably came off easier than most, but it was never difficult to come off. I guess perhaps I just got lucky. I'd like to claim that it was my superior skill level from being a mechanic for 28 years... but this time I think I just got an easy one😂
I took my new motor apart and replaced the bearings with 625-2RS. I don't think my brushes were installed properly from the factory, it was quieter after.
@@loweredexpectations4927 they sounded weird, when I took it apart, it looked like the brushes were only half on the copper armature, think that's what it's called. I used the sealed 2RS because of the dusty environment they run in. With the intake silencer and the new bearings and the silent pump, I can set one of these puppy's up in a deer stand...lol
My fan motor stopped working so I stripped it down to find that the brushes were seized in the runners. Cleaned it up and added a smidge of HTG and all is well again. Also ordered a new motor...just in case ;-)
Thanks for the comment. Not sure where you got this information, but that is not correct. These bearings are way smaller than skateboard / inline skate bearings.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I see that now when I checked my spares. I took one of my heaters that I ran waste oil in it last year and it looked just like what you had each time. I am wondering if oven cleaner will help break the big junks up. When I ordered the heater from Vevor I order 2 of them so I could experiment and still have a working unit.
@@helihead11 I have heard that oven cleaner works, but I have not tried it myself. When I first started testing, I used to get concrete like carbon build up, but recently it is very easy to clean.
@@loweredexpectations4927 presently I have the concrete substance. Your videos are the type of science I can relate to and some techniques I won’t need to preform now, Good job.
@@helihead11 That concrete substance is a real pain in the butt to get rid of. I believe I stopped having the concrete issues when I started using diesel to start and shut the heater down. I have done so much testing it is hard to keep track of.
I have an e6 brand new and I tried adjusting the fan but nothing works. I got two and they both have the same exact issue. I’m really hating these right now
@@loweredexpectations4927 bad quality control. One didn’t even start. There was a broken chip on the MB so it just blow fuses. The second throw the E-6 and all the adjustments I did from watching a bunch of videos did nothing. Which can only mean bad MB. Got a new one from a different brand and started right up
@@letzgow6110 I have had at least 10 maybe 15 heaters, and have had one that had an electronic issue. One that had a kinked fuel line. Never any that were dead on arrival. YT probably wont' let me post this comment due to that choice of words... fucking idiots. Anyway. Either I've been lucky or you have been very unlucky.
Must be hel ll to live near to this guy between the oily smoke, late night banging around, and his repeated near misses with burning down his garage. Neghbour is only a few feet away, and the city lives in commonly sees multiple garages and homes go up since they are so densely packed.
🤣 Seems like an odd video for this comment, but no... My neighbours all love me. I'm a very helpful guy and they love me. My garage is very well insulated 2x6 walls with 3/4 plywood on the inner walls, 1/2 outer sheathing and stucco... not much noise gets out. Also, my neighbours across the alley thad a house fire a few years ago.... I found out by the screams of a little girl in the alleyway.... I jumped into action to find out that their grandmother was trapped inside. The family, all crying and screaming could only call 911. I started barking out orders to get buckets and garden hoses, but they were all frozen in panic.... I got a garden hose smashed in the front door and got to see this poor lady dead in her living room chair because 8 - 10 people who knew about the fire decided that it was someone else's job to put out their fire... I stopped their house from burning down and walked away when the fire truck arrived 5 minutes later..... I was so incredibly angry and disgusted. It took me a long time to get over it. I don't understand people like that as much as they don't understand me... When shit goes down I do what needs to be done. If my garage burns down it will be because I was away or asleep. ... and I don't leave the heater running at either of those times.
Haha... I had a few complaints about the intro and decided to make a few different ones to switch it up a bit... I have seen that there are better bearings... Maybe something that I will look into if I ever have bearings fail... but who knows if that will ever happen.
I'm not sure if this will work, but I will try. If you can't see it in this comment, I will also leave it in the description of the video. www.wish.com/product/61d3d95d0cd72c969ded3780
@@axeevent10 Yeah. It is pretty interesting that they are serviceable, at least some parts. Not sure if you saw it, but at the end of this video I did take the motors apart.
You can get them on any of the usual sites. Just search for "dIesel heater fan motor". If you want to save yourself some work, you can get the whole assembly, but you can also get just the motor. I found one on Amazon Canada for $13.12 with next day delivery.
@loweredexpectations4927 Ordered 625-2RS 5x16x5 bearings for them. Set of Ceramic & a set of narrow alloy ones , See which is the smoothest and more quiet .
HAHA... where's your sense of adventure !? Taking things apart and messing with them is how I learned 90% of what I know. Seeing what it's supposed to look like before it's messed up is a good start to finding a problem if/ when something goes wrong. Personally, it's never been enough for me that something works... I have not know how and why it works. Not always necessary, but not a waste of time, as you always learn something.
Total BS that brown thing fan inside does not simply pop off your taking the piss , I used two strong knife like but of metal that fitted under it and spent over a hour trying to to prize the thing off no way in this world have you just gone up to it and then pull it off so easy saying yours may be a little tighter obviously you knew already you had managed to get it off before video no way did you just pull thing off as in video
No way did that inner brown fan just pop off your having a laugh i struggled over a hour with metal knives the lot and was a pain you did not just pop it off you had that off before the video yours maybe a little tighter 😂😂😂 yeah so tight I threw the f… thing in the bin eventually after everything failed even metal bars underneath 😡😡
LOL... I don't think I ever had mine off before this... I can't remember I may have had it off to do some porting for a video. To loosen it off I turned the shaft back and forth a little, but I assume that some are on tighter than others... but the sound of it, yours was pretty extreme. Fortunately, the whole motor fan assembly isn't too costly...
I use a heatgun to take that inner fan off, it helps a lot. Also, adding gasoline to disel fuel in ratio of 1:3 and running the heater at full blast for 20- 30 minutes helps to clean the guts and prolong the intervals between major cleanings. Thanks for the video and bearing number. Good luck on your new experiments and remember that safety is always number one! God bless you.
Ingressing. A little gasoline helps clean em out eh. I'll have to give that a try some time... Although, the heaters that I run on diesel never have any issue with build up... So far, haha.
I saw this on my homepage - not expecting another video so soon, and not specifically needing info on how to replace the motor, I skipped over it.
Another update, fantastic!
Haha.... yeah... I normally do Sunday and Wednesday... but I'm trying to get caught up... this video isn't an experiment so I wanted to get it out quickly so I decided to release my experiment video Saturday and quickly edited this motor video for today.
I highly suspect that most of my regular viewers won't be interested in this, but many people replacing a motor will be.
You can pull the brush springs back so they rest on the top of the slot, making it easier to insert the commutator. Then release the springs back into the slot.
yes, that is one way to go about it 👍
I love following this series to see how things progress.
same as, same as! 😃
Haha... this isn't supposed to be considered part of the series, but thanks.
Thanks, cheers !
3:50 They are INCREDIBLY easy to disassemble. I noticed 3 rubber isolation pads on the forward (outlet) side of the heat exchanger. Presumably there should have been 4? Quality control error I guess.
9:05 I'd call it a "spacer ring", or possibly "stabilizer bar" because of the extensions. It's a "spacer-stabilizer bar-ring"; LOL.
14:35 YES! Super awesome that you point this out. The first time I had my unit apart that lip was driving me crazy. I was just trying to mash it together then I decided to use more than 2 brain cells and engage my eyeballs.
Yes... it's almost like they put some thought into these needing to be serviced from time to time... that's an odd thing these days. I have only ever noticed two isolation pads but assume that there should be one on each corner, yes.
Yeah... I'm sure they call it something like the "motocentric, case locating, stabilization, yoke assembly"
LOL ... yes, I've seen videos of others struggling, so I decided to mention it.
Just a small thing. When re-installing the centre of the motor shaft I have always found it better to tie back the brushes with thin thread or cotton. This reduces the possibility of damage to the brushes. Once the shaft is in place just pull the cotton out :) Great channel btw :)
Thanks for the comment.
I have worked on starter motors and winch motors mostly, and I have used this technique with zip ties ... Your idea would work well on these small motors 👍 Cheers !
Great idea! Thank you for sharing it.
Definitely a great tutorial on how to replace the blower motor and also on how to replace the motor bearings.
The motor bearings are often the first part that has to be replaced after a few thousands hours of operation.
BTW, some Chinese diesel heater blower units have balanced fan wheels. They make small little cutouts in the factory to balance them. These balanced units run less noisily and the bearings last longer.
I recorded a long rant about the armature being balanced and decided to not include it because it went on for way too long ... haha. Any decent motor will be balanced ... It would be nice if they also all balanced the fan(s) ... but sadly they don't.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Might be an idea for a future tuning video... ;-) I imagine it could be DIY'd like balancing the propellers for RC aircraft.
@@HB-et5iv Yeah... a person could do some fine tuning in this for sure. I'd be happy if I could get mine to run for more than a few days on waste oil ...
Usually there is a little slot or hole in the front of the brush holder...normally you can push the brushes all the way in to holder and put a paperclip or something in the hole or slot and lock them all the way back...now you can install the rotating part in the housing and than instal the backplate with the brushes and not risk the wires getting crushed because of the magnetic field...just before it is completely set you just pull out the paperclips and the brushes are set into place....hopefully this makes your life a little easier in the future when working on electric motors 😁
Interesting. I have never noticed that before. Most of the motors that I work on are starter motors. That would make things easier. WIth bigger motors I use zip ties to hold the brushes and start the assembly with the rotor in the magnets and slide the end cap on after. Good stuff 👍
We think alike sometimes. Keep up your good work.
Great minds...
I love channels without background music. Can always add my preferred noise myself, if needed. My 2cents referring to this topic.
Man, what an incredible job, explaining just everything the same time you manage to go straightforward without any time wasting bs at all. That's either a lot of practice or you're a natural.
You may as well try to make a career as an actor with your attitude and talent. Mechanic are underpaid anyhow.
I'm really impressed. Makes me think to practice a bit for better videos.
Thanks for that comment. I feel the same way. I sometimes add music and on my other channel I do it in almost every video... I don't understand it, but the majority of people want some soundtrack and leave positive comments about my editing when I do.... but I dislike it, haha.
That's very kind of you to say... I don't know that it's a natural talent or practice, perhaps a bit of both and being somewhat confident about what I'm talking about... and the magic of editing, haha.
Most of the little add in clips at the first of the video, end and me talking directly to the camera... they take several takes to get the words out.
I missed this one while out of town for the weekend, so just getting my like and comment in.
Right on... I appreciate it. I didn't' expect that most people would want to watch this.... it was more for those who were replacing a motor... but thanks !
lol, the first thing I did when I got my Diesel heater, was to take the housing apart. I knew that the machine probably was not assembled very well. The pump was loose. the wires were not well routed. The wires had no grommets through the sheet metal. The screw in tank nipple was loose. So yeah. Definitely was not assembled to my specifications.
Credit to opening my unit and checking goes to David McLuckie. Shout out.
Dave is the man !
Awesome stuff my friend, it's very interesting to see how this all goes together. Cheers
Thanks PUB !
I find the easiest way to get the black fan off is by pressing a coin on the centre spindle with both of your thumbs whilst pulling on the edges of the fan with your fingers. It just pops off with ease.
I'm not really sure what you mean. The shaft is flush with the fan. wouldn't the coin just push on the fan ?
I have seen that their is a high pressure pipe system that they can connect to your dpf and clean out all the gunk, by running some sort of liquid through it , that could be the solution, drill a hole into the chamber and attached hard pipe , some how run some sort of solvent through it and suck it out through exhaust, every one snd again when turned of
Tbf if the solvent could evaporate, could just pump it into the chamber and see if it delodges anything , pump and suck maybe and the rest would just disappear
That would be really cool if it works. I really want to try steam / water when it is running but I need to work on getting it nice and hot first.
For people trying to replicate, it might be worth mentioning the gasket your heater probably "lost" somewhere along its journey but which some people may want to replace if it breaks during disassembly :)
Yeah... I should have mentioned the gasket... I haven't used mine for so long it slipped my mind.
Personally, I'd be more comfortable with that gasket in place. Scared of CO "blowby" into the room...
@@HB-et5iv Yes, I would suggest using all of the gaskets. This heater is a test bed for all sorts of experiments and I literally take it apart 4-5 times a day, so I don't always use gaskets. I'm also not sleeping in my garage, so I'm not too concerned about CO.
I'm also not convinced that any CO can / will escape, because the system is under positive pressure from the combustion fan... The gasket is pointless as there is a large opening where the air goes into the burn chamber. The pressure on that area is equal to the area at the gasket surface, but there is less resistance. That being said would still recommend doing it the way the manufacturer intended.
Once you open the motor, if the carbon brushes are not flat against the copper ring, then take them out and file them flat. Put them back in one of the springs on mine was weak, so I took a small pair of pliers and gave it one more turn so it had more tension on the carbon. The motor is going well now. It is a very bad design as the springs are too weak.
Generally, Brushes are shaped to conform to the shape of the contacts, for more contact area... filing them flat would reduce this, if I'm understanding you correctly.
Brush springs are generally purposely just strong enough to make the brushes contact the rotating assembly. They do this because 1. More pressure = more friction / resistance. This wastes power and causes more heat. and 2. More pressure means your brushes don't' last nearly as long.
If there is a bad design choice here, it is the fact that the brushes are sliding in plastic.This should be metal.
A week after I put the muffler on my heater started shutting off, and there was fluid in my exhaust pipe!
Fluid as in water or fluid as in fuel ? My exhaust gets too hot to collect water, but last night I did have oil dripping out of my ventilation system, haha.
The ‘damper’, as you call it, in the one motor end-cap is to allow axial expansion as the motor temperature changes, without affecting the commutator to brush position. There is always one bearing in an electric motor that can move axially, for this reason. Sometimes the bearing can move within the sleeve and sometimes the outer bearing support can be movable.
That's an interesting take on it... I'm curious if you are guessing at this or if you know from engineering. I have never seen a commutator that is so short that the thermal expansion of the motor would affect the brushes at all... this would be a few thousandths of an inch.
It makes sense that the motor should be able to move axially so that nothing binds. I don't know a lot about electric motors. From what I have seen, motors typically have some sort of thrust washers on each end of the rotor so that the movement is limited in this way.
Those small PMDC motors aren't generally worth servicing, except as an item of curiosity. But, cool that you took it apart and showed us what was wrong with it. I'm currently playing with a 2kW BLDC motor. They don't have brushes, but they need a controller to work.
I agree... it doesn't make sense to service them... I just like taking things apart ! haha.
Wow. Did I hear fuel heater? Last time I commented on your video and gave my 2 cents, I asked you about preheating the in comming fuel. I also ask you to check out the geet reactors. I don't know if you remember? But anyway congratulations. I'm glad you figured it out on how to burn waste oil. Great video brother. Keep making more videos, I like your style.
OH yes... I remember looking at geet reactors ! Still going , still testing.
Awesome Service Tutorial... 👍
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate it !
Thankyou for the Educational tutorial.
Cheers ! Thanks for your comment.
you made it look incredibly simple to take out those two fans. In my case, it was a major pain in the neck to take out the inner blow fan when I had to replace noisy fans from a cheapest ever chinese diesel heater.
Hmmm. I have had mine off a few times to clean it, so it probably came off easier than most, but it was never difficult to come off. I guess perhaps I just got lucky.
I'd like to claim that it was my superior skill level from being a mechanic for 28 years... but this time I think I just got an easy one😂
I took my new motor apart and replaced the bearings with 625-2RS.
I don't think my brushes were installed properly from the factory, it was quieter after.
Were the brushes clicking before ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 they sounded weird, when I took it apart, it looked like the brushes were only half on the copper armature, think that's what it's called. I used the sealed 2RS because of the dusty environment they run in.
With the intake silencer and the new bearings and the silent pump, I can set one of these puppy's up in a deer stand...lol
@@kirkwalsh1932 Haha... one of these in a deer stand would be amusing.
@@loweredexpectations4927 probably have to run it on kerosene for the smell...
Maybe Wish used a balloon delivery. LoL 😂
LOL !!! Genius .... might as well put them to good use.
Just push the brushes right in they will lock inside and just release them once you have the shaft and comuntator in place
This is true for some brushes, but not all.
My fan motor stopped working so I stripped it down to find that the brushes were seized in the runners. Cleaned it up and added a smidge of HTG and all is well again. Also ordered a new motor...just in case ;-)
Nice ! I basically did the same thing but added WD40 and it was TOTALLY my fault for overheating it... several times.
Inline skates has the same bearings, Zed is not so good as Abec , and they are in quality 1,2,3 and 4 (the best) 😊
Thanks for the comment. Not sure where you got this information, but that is not correct. These bearings are way smaller than skateboard / inline skate bearings.
Which video had the thumb on the intake to make it pop off, I am soooo curious to watch that one.
Haha... Hmmm. I wish I could remember, but I can't. There were actually two that had some exciting exhaust bangs and two with massive flames.
Brilliant! Subbed.
Oh, thank you ! Much appreciated !
Those motor bearing look like the same as the Skateboard wheel truck bearings I got not long ago. Popular number and you can get 10 for $10 on Amazon
I mentioned the # at the end of the video. You can get them pretty cheap, but they are not the same as skate wheel bearings. Cheers !
@@loweredexpectations4927 I see that now when I checked my spares. I took one of my heaters that I ran waste oil in it last year and it looked just like what you had each time. I am wondering if oven cleaner will help break the big junks up. When I ordered the heater from Vevor I order 2 of them so I could experiment and still have a working unit.
@@helihead11 I have heard that oven cleaner works, but I have not tried it myself. When I first started testing, I used to get concrete like carbon build up, but recently it is very easy to clean.
@@loweredexpectations4927 presently I have the concrete substance. Your videos are the type of science I can relate to and some techniques I won’t need to preform now, Good job.
@@helihead11 That concrete substance is a real pain in the butt to get rid of. I believe I stopped having the concrete issues when I started using diesel to start and shut the heater down. I have done so much testing it is hard to keep track of.
I have an e6 brand new and I tried adjusting the fan but nothing works. I got two and they both have the same exact issue. I’m really hating these right now
You have two heaters and they both have E6 errors ? That's very very strange.
@@loweredexpectations4927 bad quality control. One didn’t even start. There was a broken chip on the MB so it just blow fuses. The second throw the E-6 and all the adjustments I did from watching a bunch of videos did nothing. Which can only mean bad MB. Got a new one from a different brand and started right up
@@letzgow6110 I have had at least 10 maybe 15 heaters, and have had one that had an electronic issue. One that had a kinked fuel line. Never any that were dead on arrival. YT probably wont' let me post this comment due to that choice of words... fucking idiots. Anyway. Either I've been lucky or you have been very unlucky.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I’d say I was super unlucky. From the videos ive watched, there are a few who had dead one brand new also. lol
Definitely do not hold the fan near your nether regions either. Rubbing in that area has been known to cause 2nd. degree road rash. lol. I had to.
I have taken notes, and I will not be doing that...
I've lowered my expectations of how easy it is to incinerate used oil
HAHA.... Touche'
Must be hel ll to live near to this guy between the oily smoke, late night banging around, and his repeated near misses with burning down his garage. Neghbour is only a few feet away, and the city lives in commonly sees multiple garages and homes go up since they are so densely packed.
🤣 Seems like an odd video for this comment, but no... My neighbours all love me. I'm a very helpful guy and they love me.
My garage is very well insulated 2x6 walls with 3/4 plywood on the inner walls, 1/2 outer sheathing and stucco... not much noise gets out.
Also, my neighbours across the alley thad a house fire a few years ago.... I found out by the screams of a little girl in the alleyway.... I jumped into action to find out that their grandmother was trapped inside. The family, all crying and screaming could only call 911. I started barking out orders to get buckets and garden hoses, but they were all frozen in panic.... I got a garden hose smashed in the front door and got to see this poor lady dead in her living room chair because 8 - 10 people who knew about the fire decided that it was someone else's job to put out their fire...
I stopped their house from burning down and walked away when the fire truck arrived 5 minutes later..... I was so incredibly angry and disgusted. It took me a long time to get over it. I don't understand people like that as much as they don't understand me... When shit goes down I do what needs to be done. If my garage burns down it will be because I was away or asleep. ... and I don't leave the heater running at either of those times.
Anymore Assumptions?? Lol, Great job Joel!
I'm surprised that fans are pressed fit without notch or keyway at some given point I'm sure you will be able to make them Slip 😆 🤣 😂
Yeah... I was surprised at how easy they were to take off.... but there's not a lot of load on them... The shaft is knurled / micro splined 🤷♂️
I really miss your orriginal intro music it was nutty like you . There are upgrade bearings available direct from China foir the motor.
Agreed🤣
Haha... I had a few complaints about the intro and decided to make a few different ones to switch it up a bit... I have seen that there are better bearings... Maybe something that I will look into if I ever have bearings fail... but who knows if that will ever happen.
Can't please everyone, haha.
lol
Motor link ?
I'm not sure if this will work, but I will try. If you can't see it in this comment, I will also leave it in the description of the video.
www.wish.com/product/61d3d95d0cd72c969ded3780
@@loweredexpectations4927 thank you!
@@axeevent10 You're welcome.
@@loweredexpectations4927 L.E: took mine apart today, surprised I have the serviceble motor, luckie me, got new berings and now good to go.
@@axeevent10 Yeah. It is pretty interesting that they are serviceable, at least some parts. Not sure if you saw it, but at the end of this video I did take the motors apart.
Link is no longer any good for the replacement motor.
You can get them on any of the usual sites. Just search for "dIesel heater fan motor". If you want to save yourself some work, you can get the whole assembly, but you can also get just the motor. I found one on Amazon Canada for $13.12 with next day delivery.
www.amazon.ca/Yctze-Parking-Heater-252113992000-HeatersAir/dp/B0C5NVXKK9/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tEiQ5Swg37ADs9O9skB1zpXkDuVMP8A9NLRbl3n72wGC-77nntydrDfCyJU3EiA8cm6jdPhqZAryFwDNrqi8Bo0B9Z5d0cu7k9CFC0by9yXJ5rpwsmpJK7MnZX-jV9oibfRGTk-ZDzSuivEDKMSSKd05gj9Z7TLiim2glveGDQ1hGNONYRo6JWiqXmZRxqYrKNDzBEn9qSjyB1BGCoypWJIkAlfcYyi4B39vo9h5lVCGxtjtoPdPu3aXWSBTZouTs4V0SvQns-_JIhcDhqjbM3v75dTu5_43ch6Im-aCR_VCr75xeCwG-4PuGq73ksofYZxUtiRusZDyloPXS2KV_v-8vL-SA47gnPLN-Pbd3eo5zxajboEwTFZ_dmp0cfYWm0q4o5eKvqYQGxqw8cdisVOTmJvQvnCTVqbeh_SZiaJ-NO3YN9RMASzH4jg2gbRv.TJUQoxkGtIaK18gtzC8qQ-5nw4c-lOJAGdnCrknmBss&dib_tag=se&hvadid=622437235435&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9194103&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=212384171206968287&hvtargid=kwd-1410949094637&hydadcr=23389_13536850&keywords=diesel%2Bheater%2Bmotor&qid=1736656618&sr=8-5&th=1
@loweredexpectations4927 Ordered 625-2RS 5x16x5 bearings for them. Set of Ceramic & a set of narrow alloy ones , See which is the smoothest and more quiet .
What a waste of time taking apart a new motor and making us watch it. Good video on the replacement though.
HAHA... where's your sense of adventure !? Taking things apart and messing with them is how I learned 90% of what I know. Seeing what it's supposed to look like before it's messed up is a good start to finding a problem if/ when something goes wrong.
Personally, it's never been enough for me that something works... I have not know how and why it works. Not always necessary, but not a waste of time, as you always learn something.
Total BS that brown thing fan inside does not simply pop off your taking the piss , I used two strong knife like but of metal that fitted under it and spent over a hour trying to to prize the thing off no way in this world have you just gone up to it and then pull it off so easy saying yours may be a little tighter obviously you knew already you had managed to get it off before video no way did you just pull thing off as in video
No way did that inner brown fan just pop off your having a laugh i struggled over a hour with metal knives the lot and was a pain you did not just pop it off you had that off before the video yours maybe a little tighter 😂😂😂 yeah so tight I threw the f… thing in the bin eventually after everything failed even metal bars underneath 😡😡
LOL... I don't think I ever had mine off before this... I can't remember I may have had it off to do some porting for a video.
To loosen it off I turned the shaft back and forth a little, but I assume that some are on tighter than others... but the sound of it, yours was pretty extreme.
Fortunately, the whole motor fan assembly isn't too costly...
As before, not so chreap anyway- !
I don't understand, but thanks for the comment, haha.
Test Cell operator.
Say what now ?
I worked in the service as a test cell opr. Basically you are testing systems mine was F-15 engines.@@loweredexpectations4927