I am in the mist of a transmission leak right now. Fluid blowing up on top of engine. I was glad to hear the plus and minus side of this repair. Thanks for the info
I really like this. Great video Sir. The other day i was throwing out some old oil cooler lines and i was considering keeping the fittings. But the grandkids got in way 😂 Thank you Sir. This is a huge help
I did a transmission line repair on one side of my transmission line a while ago based on another video that, also, recommended using two clamps if you didn't want to drop a load on a new OEM part. Although, they didn't put the clamps on opposite sides of the line. But, it's been holding together for the past month. So, I'm not going to be overly concerned until it starts leaking again. I've done it with the other side of the line, particularly since there's no flang for me to shove the tubing over and there's no easy way for me to add a flang to the tubing without removing the entire line completely, which will be difficult because there's a bunch of other lines in the way and I'm a VERY amateur gearhead myself and I don't want to get in over my head trying to figure out how to put it all back together again.
Thank you very much for a clear, easy to follow video. I've got to tackle this issue today. My engine is a transverse engine so it's very difficult to replace the entire line. I purchased the assembly but it's too hard to get to the back of the transmission to disconnect and replace the line. I plan on doing your procedure now. 1 line is gunked up bad. I assume that's the leak and I barely caught it since the line is tight and practically hidden. This will make it easy if I can cut it off safely without damaging anything nearby. I've got a dremel hoping it can cut through. Any reason we could not just chew it off with a wire cutter?
@@lildoggy4u if you mean side cutters you will reach a point where it won’t bite anymore, a dremel will take a while but it’ll work, it’s what I used to use
Good job. Sometimes you need to use what you have on hand but in order to keep those aluminum shavings out of the lines and not damage your transmission it would be best to cut them all, clean and then pull the hoses off. They make special hose clamps that are smooth on the inside and will not cut into or damage the hydraulic hose. Having a flaring tool on hand if needed is a good idea also, never put hose on a smooth line that is under high pressure. Like you said you got lucky that the line had something to grab onto already.
Those smaller clamps create a pinch point the tighter they get, so I double clamp it and offset it like that then I tighten till I can’t twist the hose. Never had one leak that way.
Hey Mr Bulldog, so I have a Chrysler 2008 town and country 3.8 litter I have lines like that but they’re leaking coolant,can I do the same what you just demonstrated? Thank you Sir
Is it possible to just cut the ribs off, to where I could slide the new hose onto the existing tubing? Maybe I could replace the clamps/ hoses with high pressure fuel clamps/ hose?
I wonder if I could use this to flush my transmission and or add transmission fluid to the transmission. Ps I don't have a dip stick and the fill bolt is a torx 40 against the frame so tight I can't get a tool in there.
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 I cut some of the insulation out of the way and today I'll drop the exhaust out of the way hopefully I can get that plug out. Thanks for the response 👍
Do you happen to know what the psi is inside transmission lines? I did this fix yesterday and I'm a little concerned about whether or not this will hold up and not pop off.
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 hi. Why this conections must be super tight and pressure save (250psi) but this aluminum tubing on the other side where it's connected to radiator has only tiny oring and little e clip?
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 you are right but I still don't understand why one conections has to be 250psi proof but for other one 25psi oring is enough.
It will work anywhere in theory but if you're not going to make a lip I'd at least add some sort of cement to bond the hose to the pipe and make sure it's on there 4-5 inches deep with 4 clamps 2 close together on both ends of each junction/splice...8 in total. Do that and it will hold more line pressure than your transmission should be producing unless something else is wrong (like a blockage).
I would guardedly say yes, I’ve never done it to engine oil cooler lines but the same premise applies, has to have a rib on the line to keep the hose from blowing off and oil resistant hose with the right pressure rating must be used…no heater hose!
@@1Buckluck that’s odd, I’ve done it this way for years and as long as it has a barb on it and actual oil hose is used I don’t have a problem. If you have a problem with every one leaking then it’s not being done correctly. I wouldn’t advise this to be done with engine oil cooler hoses though.
Honestly just spend the money lol I just did this job on a buddies f150 2 new front trans cooler lines and the main transmission line with a quart of AT fluid was $275. No need to mess with the quick connect lines since everything's being replaced and you got all new rust free transmission lines
I guess this is a bandaid fix if you can’t get the part but you can just usually get a new line for under $50. Mine was $28 on a 2016 impala. You have no idea if the line is barbed or not until you cut it apart. If no barbs you are having to flare it in a tight space. Sillly, just get a new line.
Strange,I'm 64 and have been using hose clamps on transmission lines for years. That's what they used for years before all of these so-called engineered parts.😂😂😂😂😂 PS. I have even used hose clamps on transmission lines that didn't have a flare . Transmission lines aren't under that much pressure.
I am in the mist of a transmission leak right now. Fluid blowing up on top of engine. I was glad to hear the plus and minus side of this repair. Thanks for the info
Those clamps are weak especially with vibrations and corrosion. I highly recommend to use crimp rings.
I really like this. Great video Sir. The other day i was throwing out some old oil cooler lines and i was considering keeping the fittings. But the grandkids got in way 😂 Thank you Sir. This is a huge help
I did a transmission line repair on one side of my transmission line a while ago based on another video that, also, recommended using two clamps if you didn't want to drop a load on a new OEM part. Although, they didn't put the clamps on opposite sides of the line. But, it's been holding together for the past month. So, I'm not going to be overly concerned until it starts leaking again. I've done it with the other side of the line, particularly since there's no flang for me to shove the tubing over and there's no easy way for me to add a flang to the tubing without removing the entire line completely, which will be difficult because there's a bunch of other lines in the way and I'm a VERY amateur gearhead myself and I don't want to get in over my head trying to figure out how to put it all back together again.
Appreciate this video Bulldog . . . all the best & stay well !!!
Brilliant! Saved me time and money.
Thank you Bulldog was very helpful!
Thank you very much for a clear, easy to follow video. I've got to tackle this issue today. My engine is a transverse engine so it's very difficult to replace the entire line. I purchased the assembly but it's too hard to get to the back of the transmission to disconnect and replace the line. I plan on doing your procedure now. 1 line is gunked up bad. I assume that's the leak and I barely caught it since the line is tight and practically hidden. This will make it easy if I can cut it off safely without damaging anything nearby. I've got a dremel hoping it can cut through. Any reason we could not just chew it off with a wire cutter?
@@lildoggy4u if you mean side cutters you will reach a point where it won’t bite anymore, a dremel will take a while but it’ll work, it’s what I used to use
Bulldog, thanks so much. Got the bumper off. It's a GO for today. I appreciate your response.
Yo Bam Bam Bigalow, thanks Dude u save me a ton of money..
Double clamping if you have room doesn't hurt. Good video.
Good video I did this last week to a broken line.
Maybe add a thick cable tie for the extra Safety! 2 on each. side would be safer, better and easier than a crimp i'm guessing
Good job. Sometimes you need to use what you have on hand but in order to keep those aluminum shavings out of the lines and not damage your transmission it would be best to cut them all, clean and then pull the hoses off. They make special hose clamps that are smooth on the inside and will not cut into or damage the hydraulic hose. Having a flaring tool on hand if needed is a good idea also, never put hose on a smooth line that is under high pressure. Like you said you got lucky that the line had something to grab onto already.
I noticed immediately that you alternated the direction of the clamps so the tension comes from two sides.
Those smaller clamps create a pinch point the tighter they get, so I double clamp it and offset it like that then I tighten till I can’t twist the hose. Never had one leak that way.
Hey Mr Bulldog, so I have a Chrysler 2008 town and country 3.8 litter I have lines like that but they’re leaking coolant,can I do the same what you just demonstrated? Thank you Sir
Theoretically yes, but I don’t remember those having small coolant lines like that
Is it possible to just cut the ribs off, to where I could slide the new hose onto the existing tubing? Maybe I could replace the clamps/ hoses with high pressure fuel clamps/ hose?
That’s what I did…
I wonder if I could use this to flush my transmission and or add transmission fluid to the transmission. Ps I don't have a dip stick and the fill bolt is a torx 40 against the frame so tight I can't get a tool in there.
You’d still have to have it out to check the level
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 I cut some of the insulation out of the way and today I'll drop the exhaust out of the way hopefully I can get that plug out. Thanks for the response 👍
@@littlebambino5145 in tight places I knock out the hex in the torx and put a wrench on it…shortens it way up
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 I just cut one and shortened it up. Thanks for the advice. 👍
Merry Christmas 🎁🎄
Do you happen to know what the psi is inside transmission lines? I did this fix yesterday and I'm a little concerned about whether or not this will hold up and not pop off.
The hoses are rated to 400psi, max pressure is about 250 I believe, normal operating pressure between 150 and 225
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 hi. Why this conections must be super tight and pressure save (250psi) but this aluminum tubing on the other side where it's connected to radiator has only tiny oring and little e clip?
@@marekkrepa9982 they rarely leak there, but I’ve seen a few pop that clip after someone took it apart and didn’t get it back together correctly
@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 you are right but I still don't understand why one conections has to be 250psi proof but for other one 25psi oring is enough.
Would this work on an oil cooler line
What about if the quick connect clamps are broken .
If the clamp is bad I’d just slide the hose up over the pipe and put a screw clamp on it
Replace them all, don't listen to this guy lol
How about running a hose all the way from the cooler to the transmission?
Very high risk of chaffing and damage, since the lines are already there I do this
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 Thanks for u video
Great video
nice & tidy
What tool are you using
@@coreychillis9754 Kimball Midwest right angle grinder with a cutoff wheel
Great info
What about flaring the end of the tube?
I have a double flaring set that I use to pit a bubble on the end of the line if possible
Why can't you use another similar clamp like the original?
It’s a crimped clamp, it would require a special tool to install
Thanks a lot for your help bro
Can this only be done within a section of those grooved aluminum sections, or can you do this anywhere along trans lines?
If you do it on a smooth section you should flare a bubble on the end to prevent the hose from blowing off under pressure
It will work anywhere in theory but if you're not going to make a lip I'd at least add some sort of cement to bond the hose to the pipe and make sure it's on there 4-5 inches deep with 4 clamps 2 close together on both ends of each junction/splice...8 in total.
Do that and it will hold more line pressure than your transmission should be producing unless something else is wrong (like a blockage).
I would be extra careful about getting metal particles from the grinding operation and them getting into the hard lines. That would be bad.
Can I do this w oil cooler lines ?
I would guardedly say yes, I’ve never done it to engine oil cooler lines but the same premise applies, has to have a rib on the line to keep the hose from blowing off and oil resistant hose with the right pressure rating must be used…no heater hose!
Salve. Nuovi tubi che avete montato quanti bar?
The metal pipes I didn’t replace, just the rubber hoses, I think they were &10-$15 a foot
What is the size of the hose?
On this one it’s 3/8"
This will always leak. Fix it right. Only only do this if your stranded. Then fix it properly
@@1Buckluck that’s odd, I’ve done it this way for years and as long as it has a barb on it and actual oil hose is used I don’t have a problem. If you have a problem with every one leaking then it’s not being done correctly. I wouldn’t advise this to be done with engine oil cooler hoses though.
Thanks
Smart 1
Honestly just spend the money lol
I just did this job on a buddies f150
2 new front trans cooler lines and the main transmission line with a quart of AT fluid was $275. No need to mess with the quick connect lines since everything's being replaced and you got all new rust free transmission lines
Crimped hoses suck. And are not cheap. I like Butterfly Pork Chops. LoL
I guess this is a bandaid fix if you can’t get the part but you can just usually get a new line for under $50. Mine was $28 on a 2016 impala. You have no idea if the line is barbed or not until you cut it apart. If no barbs you are having to flare it in a tight space. Sillly, just get a new line.
The cost of the line isn’t always the issue, it’s the labor of installing it
Strange,I'm 64 and have been using hose clamps on transmission lines for years. That's what they used for years before all of these so-called engineered parts.😂😂😂😂😂 PS. I have even used hose clamps on transmission lines that didn't have a flare . Transmission lines aren't under that much pressure.
I’m being quoted $500 for both lines on a Ram 3500 Cummins.
What size id hose?
@@scottlanier5133 3/8” if I remember right
I wish they called it transmission fluid instead of oil