@@ericthecarguyHi Eric, not sure if you still here on TH-cam. But im having issues on my chevrolet trax when i apply my feet on brake it kicks down from 5 speed to 4. What could be the issue?
As explained to me by an engineer at one of the OEMs years ago, the ATF going thru the radiator helps MPG initially as the radiator also helps to warm the ATF as you start driving the car and brings the transmission up to temp faster. I think its better to bypass as you did, and I as do when i add a cooler. On one old C30 a friend had ... that towed A LOT and OFTEN, we did the low-buck approach and used the AC Condenser from a small car as a cooler. We never got over 180 degrees EVER. On my race car, the cooler itself has a fan made onto it, and I monitor trans temp for a consistency advantage.
Best way to do it is bypass that internal cooler in the radiator....those things fail and leak coolant into your transmission fluid...and that gets very $$$$. That cooler in the transmission isn't very large at all and its competing with trying to cool the engine coolant plus cool your hot transmission too...it don't do both very well at all, even though the transmission cooler is typically found in the cooler part of your radiator, it still doesn't cool enough on a vehicle used for towing/hauling duties to keep from cooking the transmission....I don't even leave that cooler in the loop. I use the largest external transmission cooler I can fit into the space given and loop the tranny lines through it only.
Seems like the AC Condenser plan worked better than the after-market ATF coolers! Any reason not to do that? Is there a minimum temperature ATF should be above while running?
The cooler on my truck is designed so that flow is restricted in cold temps for that very reason. Link to that video in the description. It still takes forever to warm up. Thanks for sharing that info. I LOVE the idea of using an AC condenser as a cooler.
Ive always thought the whole ‘radiator warms the trans’ deal was bs. The trans cooler is always on the cold side of the radiator, what do you think the temp of the antifreeze is on the cold side of the radiator when youre cruising down the road in 30F temps?
I installed the factory awd trans cooler on the day I bought my 2013 fwd Pilot because alls I had heard about Honda V6s was failed transmissions on earlier generations. I also change the fluid regularly and have had good success in my occasional towing of cars or uhaul box trailers of all sizes. Just be gentle on the gas pedal when towing. 185k miles so far, fingers crossed and knock on wood, rub the rabbit's foot.
This is MUCH more efficient & clean than using the plastic or metal pins/fasteners they give you with aftermarket secondary trans coolers for you to jam thru the condenser fins to hold it in on some vehicles!! But of course some shops don’t want you to do the job well…they just want you to get it done as fast as possible
I would have done that too, but there is one directly on top of the transmission just before the inlet to the transmission. I felt that would have been redundant. I wish I would have also mentioned that in the video. Thanks for the comment.
Glad to know I installed my transmission cooler the right way, over the cooling fan on the driver's side. I really did not know what to doing. I was just following instructions.
I know this video is about a year old, but it makes me feel good inside, knowing that I have installed my transmission cooler very similar to what you on my Honda as well! Of course I’ve been a mechanic for over 25 years so… I do know a thing or two as well.
Love your video and the many I watched before. I did a cooler install over 15 years ago on my 2000 odyssey and moved the pwr steering fluid cooler ahead also and installed 3 supplied brackets to hold new cooler in place. Worked perfect until van got totalled Christmas 2023 with 350,000 miles 560,000 km. Did same trick on hose to protect from rubbing. I also did a magnetic filter and lubegard to keep the notoriously weak tranny super strong till the bitter end. Heavy loads ( ski holidays with 4 kids), trailers and hard driving (wife has a heavy foot) for many years. Recently used as a construction vehicle. Gone to dark side now, a toyota 4runner, will do lubegard at minimum , just preventative.
i do most of my own wrenching. but i wish this guy was close to me to do the things i can't or don't have the time or tools to do. he doesn't miss much!!! correction from my point of view he covers everything!!!!!what great work!!!!
Installed one of theses trans cooler on my Montero sport after contamination of transmission fluid in radiator and cooling system also happened again with new radiator.... 3rd time I said "F" that and got trans cooler to separate radiator best thing I ever did should of done this long long long time ago can also see the difference in performance.... highly recommend for any TRUCK and SUV 👍👍👍
The fact that you are going to supercharge the Pilot probably means it needed a cooler anyway. Nice work, Eric. Love seeing you get creative on small projects like this!
Definitely need this on Honda's that use an internal radiator/transmission cooler, had one rot out on my 03 MDX. Coolant went into the transmission and tranny fluid filled the radiator. I flushed and replaced radiator and tranny lines...long story short the transmission blew up on me a week later even after flushing it like 6 times! I wish I had put an external cooler in 😕
@@thefordmaniac because it's upside down and the farthest upper corner in his case the top left side will have an air pocket. That's why OEM put the inlet on the bottom and outlet on top to push the air out with the fluids. As the transmission coolers are usually setting higher than the transmission. So yeah we should think about it when installing these aftermarket units.
That’s not at all what you wanna do. That’s not how coolant systems work. You want the flow in (hot) at the top because heat rises. Your return to the trans needs to be at the bottom. Same with an internal trans cooler in the radiator. The top it always input flow. Just like the coolant. Suction (fresh cooled) coolant at the bottom. The top of a radiator is always the hottest. So when mounting an external trans cooler, you want it as low as possible on the radiator still in the airflow section.
@@larrytemen4789 no this is not how a transmission pumping system works. Auto transmissions push fluids not suck them and this is why from factory the OEM is doing it like I've explained. You are confusing radiators and water cooling in a car with transmission cooling.
Glad you moved that TOC. This is the reason when you see Condensers in front of radiators that have any separation, they will have baffles or "air dams" to allow the fans to do their job. Many places (and manufacturers) actually mount the TOC against the condenser just for this reason.
I just did a power steering cooler on a 2007 Sierra and man you make my work look like a hack job lol nice work man you really take pride in your work👍
When I bought my truck a few years ago the owner had installed an aftermarket power steering cooler. The thing was it was some weird small cooler that looked like it had a plastic one-way pin/tab piece going directly through the fins of the condenser AND radiator. Naturally I wanted to replace this. I just happened to have a stock power steering cooler lying around from a salvage yard visit for another truck, so I basically got a near new stock cooler installed in my truck. Not sure what some people are thinking with these wacky install jobs with aftermarket parts...but anyway, great video!
Excellent explanation and great physical mechanical work One thought and correction for the explanation however when you mention the inlet and outlet of the cooler or any other type of cooler you say inlet at the top and take the cooler stuff off the bottom that does work thermally but the actual best practice of industry and I design cooling systems for automotive suppliers and OEM The best practice is to insert and push into the cooler which you'll note that the GM stock radiator for you know a GMT 900 truck for sale is very obvious it goes into the bottom comes out of the top and the reason is to make sure that you don't have an air lock because no matter how efficient it would be to remove the fluid cooled from the bottom that's the opposite direction of air locks being cleared up so if you push into the bottom and push out the top outlet from the top then you remove air bubbles you push them out to a place where they can be cycled through and taking care of so that you don't have a complete loss of fluid flow which would be very very inefficient for transmission cooling so the little bit of efficiency gained by inlet at the top and outlet from the bottom is much much better dealt with and offset by in letting at the bottom and outlet at the top where you never have a airlock problem and lose flow of coolant totally.
6:27 He’s right. Measuring takes time. During my 28 years in the building trades I’ve had my tape measure out millions of times, but as often as possible we use the actual work to mark the location of cuts, holes, mounting locations, etc. it’s not only fast but more reliably accurate. Therefore, in the end it’s almost always both faster and better. Who knew laziness could be a good thing? 😉
I'd consider installing some hardware cloth on the bottom air opening of the front cowl to protect the cooler & evaporator from stones, rocks and whatever objects from getting kicked up from traffic. Great video!
YEP. Some strategially-placed Hardware Cloth (wire mesh) can and will save your expensive Radiators and Coolers from rock damage -- it works really well to protect your rig when cruising at high speeds.
Eric, recently I saw a really nice trick to get steel to bend right were you want it without using a sheet metal break. The trick is to scribe a line with the cutoff wheel. Then your part will bend right along the line. I know you didn't have any trouble with the bar stock in this video, but this trick works really nice on sheet metal which is hard to get a sharp bend on along a long edge without using a sheet metal break.
Congratulations Eric, Nice, job Details,informative and very professional, a great learning experience to apply in my Transmission Cooler Installation. Thanks Sir.
I am a owner of one of this 2003 pilot, you have an awesome job whit this pilot, I love all the content of this pilot I can’t wait to see the final result of this pilot series
I found the OEM Transmission and upgraded P/S coolers on an MDX for $20 each at a salvage yard. I don't plan to tow, but I want the added piece of mind to keep the transmission running longer. I'm at 232K miles on an 2005 Pilot. I definitely will do something similar if I upgrade to an aftermarket cooler. I'm looking forward to when you add a supercharger and intercooler. Thanks!
It’s a good idea to install an automatic transmission cooler on a Honda, even if you are not towing. Particularly the Odyssey transmissions. They don’t last and they need all the help and intervention they can get. I have heard that the original Pilot automatic transmission is pretty robust but, the cooler will help it to last longer.
Actually I believe the issue with Honda V6 transmissions derives from the feed tubes leaking because they didn't seal well in the case. When they start to leak, this causes the 2nd gear clutch to slip when engaged. It will eventually wear out and cause the transmission to fail. I used to work at the Acura dealer and have installed more Honda V6 transmissions than I care to count. That's not to say that installing a transmission cooler will hurt, just the opposite, just don't count on it to 'solve' the root problem with those transmissions. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy From where do the Odyssey feeder tubes leak or into? I never saw any fluid leaks from my vehicle but did have to get the transmission changed out. Would ATF be leaking into the radiator? Does it change the fluid color or otherwise? It never seemed oily. I got a used transmission for my 2001which already has 220,000 miles, a recent timing belt, water pump and valve adjustment. If a ATF cooler might prevent future a transmission problem I’d like to install one. Also, thank you for reading and responding to the comments.
@Jack Jones It's an internal leak. You won't see any fluid leaking externally. You could use the cooler linked in the description, same as the one in this video, for your Odyssey.
Just shy of 30 years ago I had a built '78 Cutlass - had a Goodwrench 350 crate with a HUUUGE cam, and a built TH400 transmission. Someone had installed a big cooler using those included through-radiator zip ties. Well after so many years of that engine shaking everything around, one of those zip ties sawed right through the radiator! I stopped a store one time, and saw a 1/8th inch thick pee stream of coolant coming out from the grille! My fix for that was to bolt the cooler to the core support, and add a vile of Alumaseal (back when that stuff used to work great) to stop the leak. Fixed - never had an issue with it again after that! I never replaced that radiator, lol.
Cool story! Seriously. That's the reason I hate using that form of mounting for coolers like this. It just seems like a set up for disaster. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy I agree 100%! After seeing happen this back in the day, I always throw those long zip ties in the trash. I've also had hoses slip off of lines that weren't flared a few times. Just a little flare in the line makes all the difference. More difficult to install the hose, but it will not come off, so long as the clamp is intact.
When I was started training as automotive technician here in Philippines I always watch your video!! you mr.eric the car guy and mr.scanner Danner is great teacher for the begginer ☺️☺️☺️
I installed a Hayden 679 on my 2016 FJ Cruiser. I routed from the radiator cooler to the Hayden 679 and then to the transmission. The radiator cooler in fact is a oil stabilizer rather than a true cooler and therefore it brings up the oil to the operating temperature faster. I installed a Magnefine filter in between the external cooler and the one from radiator to keep the oil clean.
When I got my external cooler, I oversized mine. Knowing this, once I got it marked up, I also marked up where I needed to trim to ensure I trimmed the least amount off the grille. Mine was also installed but was far enough that I could install an electric fan. If I do not get enough flow, one switch can change that.
I have always seen that when talking about orientation of the cooler, you can mount it to where the inlet/outlet point left or right, and point up, but not down so the cooler doesn't trap air pockets. You said/showed that the inlet/outlet could be installed down. Which, would potentially trap air pockets. Just an observation.
Same and he did not sound "sure" about it when he explained it. I believe you are correct. Even the manufacturer diagram shows the inlet and outlet pointed upwards.
he should put the inlet at the lower position as well. High intake also traps air and reduces efficiency where liquid comes from bottom can purge air away from top .
I got one of those it works great in my Honda 2005 honda odyssey. After my trany blew out, I found out that the existing trany cooler was located in the lower compartment of the radiator: A design flaw from Honda Odyssey. Apparently there is insufficient cooling ( heat rejection) when we rely on the radiator to cool the hot transmission fluid. Transmission failures occur a lot sooner. A separate radiator to bring the transmission fluid into the air stream is a great solution.
I have a 1999 Mercury mountaineer 5.0 with a 4r70w and it came with a factory external cooler. I just hit 400k on the factory engine and transmission and have never had any major transmission issues except for the notorious 1-2 accumulator spring that breaks but that was an easy fix. I have never towed with the vehicle so I’m guessing that external cooler is probably the main reason the transmission has lasted so long :)
If the gap between the new trans cooler and the radiator is too large, the air won't pull through the trans cooler. It will be much easier to pull air around the trans cooler instead of through it. That's why they give you an option of mounting to to the radiator. Use a smoke machine and see the air flow. It will always take the path of least resistance, and if there's too big a path around, it will go around.
Did any one have installed 3 or 4 side guards to close the side gaps, between the small ATF cooler & the larger air conditioner condenser, so that the air is more effectively pulled thru the smaller ATF cooler during any speed below 25mph?.
Transmission fluid routing should be the radiator before transmission. This way, in winter, the transmission fluid is not too cold. Same thing when you are stuck in traffic, you are not going to get any airflow so the radiator will do it's job to cool the transmission fluid. Even if you are not towing, transmission cooler should extend the life of the transmission.
That was my understanding, as well. The heat exchanger in the radiator should be last in line, so it can regulate the fluid temperature before it goes back into the transmission. If you put the aftermarket unit last in line, it might take longer for the transmission to warm up, especially in cold weather. That said, Eric bypassed the heat exchanger entirely. So in his case, it's a moot point.
@@michaelblacktree The instructions I've read from aftermarket auxiliary coolers put the new unit immediately before the return to the trans. I totally get what you're both saying, though. Hmm what to do...
Eric great video! I recently discovered the trans cooler lines were installed to the wrong inlet/outlet (also vertical configuration) when the radiator was replaced and this video helped me understand that better. It was pushing fluid up not down! I've been having weird shifting, heavy, clunky and I think is because they installed it wrong causing oil starvation. My next step is to check for debris. I always learn something new in your videos thanks
no he got it wrong where. the liquid should be going in at bottom and exit on top, otherwise air will be trapped in the radiator. Your problem is a separate issue, maybe a leak but not the radiators problem.
@@ddjohnson9717 thank you for your feedback. My 2009 Infiniti FX35 RWD, trans: RE7R01A. I confirmed the direction with dealership repair manual (which is spreadout in 4 different pages!) and found a transmission guide to from Lubegard - Cooler Return Line Chart to quickly ID inlet/outlet flow for my model. Once I fixed it, I had a trans specialist refill fluid. Now the trans runs smooth on cold starts and no more leaks good temps good pressure. just completed a 1K mile trip safe and sound 😁
@@MSMgamer190 Yeah I was reviewing the instructions and it seems like the direction is based on the types and config of the radiator. Its better to talk this on a case to case bases. Thank you for the follow up!
Eric, this car has really turned out much better than I would have ever imagined. It is a nice, safe and (in a way) a better car than when it was new. I like that you "fix" things and extend the life of cars that would otherwise be junked. That's what sustainability is all about! I look forward to more videos on this car especially the the "super charger".
I'm driving a 1996 Dodge Intrepid (3.5L) with 307,000 miles. I'm hoping that it will be the last car I ever own. I always make sure the maintenance is done in a timely manner, and I think the car can reach 500,000 miles. There are only two problems I can foresee: 1.) Parts are getting harder and harder to come by and 2.) If someone hits me, any damage will likely result in the car being totaled, and I would be unable to replace it with a car in the same condition for the money I would collect. I'm frequently frustrated (and usually angered) by the disposable society we now have. When I was younger, everything was fixed rather than replaced.
I have a Honda civic 2012 coupe everything is factory designed besides an cold air intake (I dint tow anything )I was wondering if I need to get an transmssion cooler for the hot temp. In south texas Or if my car is safe enough to handle it via it’s build design? Any thing helps
I recommend finding a way to read your transmission temp as you drive. 176f is the sweet spot, >200 is bad, >220 really bad. I use elm327 program on an android phone with cheap elm bluetooth ODB2 dongle. @@danieltenorio3559
Inlet and outlet side to side or UP is usually recommended. Down is not recommended as it can trap air pockets, decreasing cooler efficiency. The cooler routing is probably specified to bypass the radiator as if your trans failed (since you are installing a reman), your trans cooler in the radiator could still be filled with contamination that will just be dumped right back into the new trans. For daily drivers in northern states, I typically route trans>radiator>cooler>trans to help with warm up in the winter. The toys just go to a cooler and back.
I had towed 2 vehicles last month with my (new to me) 07 Pilot, a camry with alternator issues and the other is flooded honda element , to my surprise it did it with ease through some rough BC mountains and p0420 code
The Pilot looks sharp. Nice work installing the additional transmission cooler. That'll be tough figuring out how much trans fluid between the cooler itself and the line from and to it. What would make it rough is if don't have a transmission dipstick to check it. If possible to put commercial break pads, rotors and break fluid on for higher heat and weight when towing. Myself are a fan of factory Iridium spark plugs if can use or real good name brand iridium spark plugs. This way won't have to change them probably as long as have the vehicle.
I mounted mine on the driver's windshield wiper. Serves three purposes, 1) it's always getting good airflow... 2) in the winter, it prevents ice from building up on the wiper...and 3) when it starts to leak, I will immediately see it.
Putting the cooler inline with another rad can make too much head pressure on some, that is why most want you to bypass the OE. On the modded final bracket, you can trim down the bolts as they are a tad longer than needed. With the bracket, you can add something rubber/plastic to make a shroud and make the fan suck through, and the hoses you can do the zip tie lock or use the plastic plugs into body trim with a loop for the Zippy, to make them more rigid and less likely to rub.
I put a cooler in my 08 TL for added reinsurance that my fresh rebuild lasts. I didn't really have time or space to mount it with brackets so I used the supplied zip ties. Works great and keeps the temp down especially in the hot summer. Plus the shift feel better when harming down.
@@oldskolacura9798 Yah the 08 has a big opening just in front of the radiator that can be accessed underneath. Like you I just removed the hold downs to separate the condenser and radiator so not to zip lock all the radiators together. It's a pretty easy job to add one.
Thanks - that instructive video was excellent! I will be fitting a Mishimoto radiator and universal transmission cooler to my Subaru Forester automatic. The OEM unit combines cooling in the radiator which has plastic tanks and is prone to failure. I was never sure of how the setup would work until watching your video. I now have the confidence to tackle it myself.
I agree with you Eric about not installing it straight to the condenser because in my experience I tried that and end up turning out the cooler alone itself was too heavy and pull down on the fin which of course is connected to those tubes and the condenser busted open. People think those tubes are strong enough to not be broken by those fins but they are aluminum welded which means yes they do have the ability to take a piece of that tubing along with them. Now maybe someone can get away with one of those 4x11 coolers(non stacked,just straight tubing) but again big risk because those sharp fins from cooler could possibly stab those condenser fins and break open the ports.
I think it was fine where you had it the first time. Like you said, "sitting in traffic wouldn't cool it very well. But also, when you're sitting in traffic, you're not using your transmission much either... I do like that you changed it though, because the one place that this will work better on now is a slow crawl while off-roading; When your pulling up hills and rocks and going very slow-- the transmission is getting used quite a bit, but you're not moving much. Maybe you're pulling a camper trailer up the side of a rocky mountain trail--- moving it closer like you did will help it. One other thing that you could have done and can STILL do really, is to put little side walls all around it, and create it's own little plastic shroud that butts right up to the condenser to help that fan FORCE the air through your trans cooler.. So a custom shroud around your trans cooler is one more upgrade if you really need even better cooling for a serious off road rig or something; but I doubt you'll ever need it. Nice upgrade.
When the cooler is oriented in that manner the return should be up TOP to push air out... radiators do it differently as you must bleed them with a cap at the highest point of the system.
Honestly I think you can hook it up either way. The transmission pressure should force all the air out no matter the orientation. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy LOL you double down on incorrect advice. I will give you 1M usd if you can get all the air out of that trans cooler installed with inlet and outlet pointing down without modification on the cooler or pre bleed. You will have an air pocket on the top corner outlet side. Make a makeshift plexiglass radiator, and you will see. That is why cooling systems have bleed valves.
@@harrycee656 You don't have a 1M you just want to bluff and try to win a situation that nobody needs to win. You do the way you think is right and let the others do it the way the think is right at the end nothing else is going to happen 😎🤔
It sounds right, but it's not. Your inlet should be on the top of the cooler, and outlet/return to trans should be on the bottom, because heat rises you should always put your outlet on the bottom. ASC Certified advice.
Thanks for the information and education. Yes I have had those plastic anchor ties poking through the rad fail and it’s much better to fabricate some solution as you show if you have the skill set.
Nice... simple and to the point. I really like the way you utilize what ever you have around you and the hardware store to make modifications needed to make it work. Awesome video....
I like the way this external transmission cooler is routed. I never liked how do you route it from the transmission to the radiator and from the radiator to the external trans cooler and then back to the transmission. I like it this way better and I’m gonna do it on my 2005 H2 Hummer plus I need to do it this way because I’m doing an E fan conversion and those trans cooler lines are in the way of the fans. Deleting those two trans coolers on the radiator will make the conversion much easier and I won’t have to do any modifications to the fan like shaving off material
Hey Eric, thanks again for another helpful video. However in regards to your comments in the beginning of this video, you should never mount the cooler with the lines coming in from the bottom as this may allow an air pocket at the top of the cooler and reduce efficiency!
Your videos have helped me tremendously over the years. Not planning on installing a transmission cooler any time soon, but always look forward to your videos every week no matter what it is.
great job. congrats! But avoid to use this kind of clamp hoses for the oil line, they are more for plumbing or garden use. they can damage the hose when tided and leak by the time. Use insted the honda part 90635-rv0-003
Eric, Everything I've seen, shows the Trans cooler mounted pointing up or to the sides, pointing down may cause air to trap. P.S. my radiator had 100k miles on it, so when I had trans rebuilt, (largest plate and fin cooler) I bypassed it. Didn't want to destroy a newly rebuilt trans, or 300k mile engine.
Depends on what you’re doing. 5.0 are ok for most. 4.0 are the ones that burn your windings under heavy load. 8.0 and up for heavier tools like 1/2 impact or saws.
Thanks a lot for videoing this project. I'm going to be doing this next weekend and you showed me some good tips and things to look out for. Much appreciated.
That's was awesome brother. I Luv the install. Great content as well. That tip about cutting a piece of hose to act like kind of a wire loom or something similar is really great. Thank you brother.
Nice job on the install, that cooler looks like a Hayden 678 which is what I just bought for my Jeep. I'll be mounting it with steel strap as well. I mounted the fan shrouds on my other Jeep the same way, by welding studs to the upper core support piece. Great minds think alike. 👍 For sliding on hoses I like Wurth Rubber Care. Works awesome for lubricating rubber & plastic and does't leave any residue. We used it on everything in the body shop including painted parts.
Excellent choice... I used the Hayden #678 (marketed by Davies Craig here in Oz) on my XJ Cherokee (radiator bypass config) and it made a noticeable difference in reducing the thermal loading on the transmission as we get brutal summers here, I am just about to fit another to our next XJ 🤣
I’m not exactly sure which car it was, but it remember a few years back why I bypass radiator coolers. some of them fail in a way that causes the coolant and transmission fluid to mix. If I had to guess, that’s why yours wants you to bypass it.
i just picked up a used car. it had a trans cooler on it. Funny as it was mounted the same with zip ties just loose hanging like the beginning of this video. I took care of that real quick.
This is going to sound like a stupid question from a complete novice , but what were the input and output points on the transmission connected to before you installed the hoses from the transmission cooler?
It's a stack of radiators in the front. It's interesting to see just how much extra cooling capacity the AC condenser and engine radiator have to be able to let add-ins like this sit in front of them.
Not as much as you might think. Keep in mind that everything on the front is designed for airflow. This might be a good time to bust out the thermal camera to see for myself. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy I feel like cooling's the last place an engineer wants to trim back, because cooling is one of those systems that when it fails, it takes other stuff down with it. They also don't want to cheap out on the AC, because an owner's going to notice their own discomfort very fast. That said, I'm not an auto tech or an engineer. Add me in to the crowd interested in the thermal camera results.
Great video as always! As far as I know it's okay to install the cooler with the ends pointing up, I can't think of a reason that would be bad. I'm curious what your logic is for recommending against that? Only thing to watch out for is if the cooler is installed with the tubes running horizontally, the entire cooler must get good airflow because the fluid running through the tubes without good airflow will effectively be not getting cooled so it's definitely best to install the cooler with the tubes running vertically if the entire cooler can't get good airflow so all the fluid running through the cooler gets cooled.
The installation instructions for the cooler. Although, this is something that is debated in the automotive community. Many say that it doesn't matter because there is enough pressure to prevent air from getting into the system. Personally, I like to err on the side of caution. Although some coolers are designed to restrict flow during a cold start up. With those I suspect positioning is more important. Thanks for the comment.
A nicely done & professional-looking install. I have 3 questions tho: 1. Don’t you run the risk of lowering ATF temps too much in the winter if you bypass the factory cooler? 2. I’ve always heard that oil coolers flow the opposite of radiators because otherwise you run the risk of getting air trapped in the cooler. Is this not true? 3. How does a transmission heat up more when it’s under no virtually load at idle vs accelerating while towing?
Ive always read that you want the inlet at the bottom so the cooler ‘fills up’ completely then flows out of the top. No idea if its true, but I guess some people think there isnt enough flow and you may end up with a water fall effect inside of the cooler which doesn’t utilize 100% of the cooler. I wouldnt think the hot cold theory would apply since heat doesnt rise in a solid object like it does with a liquid or air. Since the fluid is flowing, the less dense fluid wouldnt have time to move about to make a difference.
If you look at a radiator or even a condenser, they are set up the way I set this cooler up, with the inlet at the top. I've never seen a radiator get hot water from the bottom.
@@ericthecarguy Just flushed my condenser a week or so ago (system was packed full of oil) and it actually goes in the bottom and out the top. When you have high flow like that, the liquid cant separate due to density. It may separate in the radiator since it has side tanks and the coolant flow is low unless the thermostat is wide open. Same with the trans cooler, the flow is just too high for the fluid to separate due to temp. Ive got to imagine that either way will work just fine though. Having the bigger aux trans cooler is what really matters. I just found it interesting that you did it opposite of what the 'keyboard experts' always said to do.
Very timey as I need to do this exact thing on my S10 as I've now put 2 condensers in it and it'll be getting a 3rd this summer. The previous owner zip tied it to the condenser and it rubbed through.
it looks spot on, It's very neat and looks like it belongs there :-D You are so good at fabrication eric. Just think about the things you have made and recreation of chassis parts. Ill give you 11 out of ten lol.
Thank you! As a former artist, I really enjoy making things, especially out of metal. Even better if I can drive it when I'm done. I suppose I never really grew up. Have a great weekend.
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0:45 yes your videos are cool and fun to watch, and have saved me hundreds if not thousands of dollars in repair bills. Thank you Eric.
Thank you!
Yeah that's why Im keeping watching learning dosen't hurt 😎👍🏼
@@ericthecarguyHi Eric, not sure if you still here on TH-cam. But im having issues on my chevrolet trax when i apply my feet on brake it kicks down from 5 speed to 4. What could be the issue?
As explained to me by an engineer at one of the OEMs years ago, the ATF going thru the radiator helps MPG initially as the radiator also helps to warm the ATF as you start driving the car and brings the transmission up to temp faster. I think its better to bypass as you did, and I as do when i add a cooler. On one old C30 a friend had ... that towed A LOT and OFTEN, we did the low-buck approach and used the AC Condenser from a small car as a cooler. We never got over 180 degrees EVER. On my race car, the cooler itself has a fan made onto it, and I monitor trans temp for a consistency advantage.
Best way to do it is bypass that internal cooler in the radiator....those things fail and leak coolant into your transmission fluid...and that gets very $$$$. That cooler in the transmission isn't very large at all and its competing with trying to cool the engine coolant plus cool your hot transmission too...it don't do both very well at all, even though the transmission cooler is typically found in the cooler part of your radiator, it still doesn't cool enough on a vehicle used for towing/hauling duties to keep from cooking the transmission....I don't even leave that cooler in the loop. I use the largest external transmission cooler I can fit into the space given and loop the tranny lines through it only.
Seems like the AC Condenser plan worked better than the after-market ATF coolers! Any reason not to do that? Is there a minimum temperature ATF should be above while running?
The cooler on my truck is designed so that flow is restricted in cold temps for that very reason. Link to that video in the description. It still takes forever to warm up. Thanks for sharing that info. I LOVE the idea of using an AC condenser as a cooler.
Ive always thought the whole ‘radiator warms the trans’ deal was bs. The trans cooler is always on the cold side of the radiator, what do you think the temp of the antifreeze is on the cold side of the radiator when youre cruising down the road in 30F temps?
@@jackjones9460 Some vehicles come from the factory automatically set up like that. Grand Cherokees and a small run of tundras come to mind
I installed the factory awd trans cooler on the day I bought my 2013 fwd Pilot because alls I had heard about Honda V6s was failed transmissions on earlier generations. I also change the fluid regularly and have had good success in my occasional towing of cars or uhaul box trailers of all sizes. Just be gentle on the gas pedal when towing. 185k miles so far, fingers crossed and knock on wood, rub the rabbit's foot.
This is MUCH more efficient & clean than using the plastic or metal pins/fasteners they give you with aftermarket secondary trans coolers for you to jam thru the condenser fins to hold it in on some vehicles!!
But of course some shops don’t want you to do the job well…they just want you to get it done as fast as possible
We always add in an external inline replaceable filter. A temp gauge on rigs used to tow often.
I would have done that too, but there is one directly on top of the transmission just before the inlet to the transmission. I felt that would have been redundant. I wish I would have also mentioned that in the video. Thanks for the comment.
where do you install the pickup for the temp gauge?
@@enjay8950 check out derale 13091 trans filter kit with temp gauge
Glad to know I installed my transmission cooler the right way, over the cooling fan on the driver's side. I really did not know what to doing. I was just following instructions.
so what do u do with the inlets n outlet of the radiator..do u plug them or?
I know this video is about a year old, but it makes me feel good inside, knowing that I have installed my transmission cooler very similar to what you on my Honda as well! Of course I’ve been a mechanic for over 25 years so… I do know a thing or two as well.
Love your video and the many I watched before. I did a cooler install over 15 years ago on my 2000 odyssey and moved the pwr steering fluid cooler ahead also and installed 3 supplied brackets to hold new cooler in place. Worked perfect until van got totalled Christmas 2023 with 350,000 miles 560,000 km. Did same trick on hose to protect from rubbing. I also did a magnetic filter and lubegard to keep the notoriously weak tranny super strong till the bitter end. Heavy loads ( ski holidays with 4 kids), trailers and hard driving (wife has a heavy foot) for many years. Recently used as a construction vehicle. Gone to dark side now, a toyota 4runner, will do lubegard at minimum , just preventative.
i do most of my own wrenching. but i wish this guy was close to me to do the things i can't or don't have the time or tools to do. he doesn't miss much!!! correction from my point of view he covers everything!!!!!what great work!!!!
Installed one of theses trans cooler on my Montero sport after contamination of transmission fluid in radiator and cooling system also happened again with new radiator.... 3rd time I said "F" that and got trans cooler to separate radiator best thing I ever did should of done this long long long time ago can also see the difference in performance.... highly recommend for any TRUCK and SUV 👍👍👍
The fact that you are going to supercharge the Pilot probably means it needed a cooler anyway. Nice work, Eric. Love seeing you get creative on small projects like this!
That’s why I love this guy, the dedication and explanation makes you one of the best in the mechanic community.
Stay dirty. THANKS ERIC
Definitely need this on Honda's that use an internal radiator/transmission cooler, had one rot out on my 03 MDX. Coolant went into the transmission and tranny fluid filled the radiator. I flushed and replaced radiator and tranny lines...long story short the transmission blew up on me a week later even after flushing it like 6 times! I wish I had put an external cooler in 😕
I'd recommend swapping the lines to (In bottom / out top) to keep air pockets out.
Because it's a sealed system with no vents? Hmmm. Think about that.
@@thefordmaniac because it's upside down and the farthest upper corner in his case the top left side will have an air pocket.
That's why OEM put the inlet on the bottom and outlet on top to push the air out with the fluids. As the transmission coolers are usually setting higher than the transmission. So yeah we should think about it when installing these aftermarket units.
He’s a ford guy I wouldn’t expect him to understand anything past gettin with his sister.
That’s not at all what you wanna do. That’s not how coolant systems work. You want the flow in (hot) at the top because heat rises. Your return to the trans needs to be at the bottom. Same with an internal trans cooler in the radiator. The top it always input flow. Just like the coolant. Suction (fresh cooled) coolant at the bottom. The top of a radiator is always the hottest. So when mounting an external trans cooler, you want it as low as possible on the radiator still in the airflow section.
@@larrytemen4789 no this is not how a transmission pumping system works. Auto transmissions push fluids not suck them and this is why from factory the OEM is doing it like I've explained. You are confusing radiators and water cooling in a car with transmission cooling.
Glad you moved that TOC. This is the reason when you see Condensers in front of radiators that have any separation, they will have baffles or "air dams" to allow the fans to do their job. Many places (and manufacturers) actually mount the TOC against the condenser just for this reason.
I just did a power steering cooler on a 2007 Sierra and man you make my work look like a hack job lol nice work man you really take pride in your work👍
5:50 Use the wire wheel to remove and smooth out the burs on cut metal. It leaves the edges really nice.
When I bought my truck a few years ago the owner had installed an aftermarket power steering cooler. The thing was it was some weird small cooler that looked like it had a plastic one-way pin/tab piece going directly through the fins of the condenser AND radiator. Naturally I wanted to replace this. I just happened to have a stock power steering cooler lying around from a salvage yard visit for another truck, so I basically got a near new stock cooler installed in my truck. Not sure what some people are thinking with these wacky install jobs with aftermarket parts...but anyway, great video!
Excellent explanation and great physical mechanical work One thought and correction for the explanation however when you mention the inlet and outlet of the cooler or any other type of cooler you say inlet at the top and take the cooler stuff off the bottom that does work thermally but the actual best practice of industry and I design cooling systems for automotive suppliers and OEM The best practice is to insert and push into the cooler which you'll note that the GM stock radiator for you know a GMT 900 truck for sale is very obvious it goes into the bottom comes out of the top and the reason is to make sure that you don't have an air lock because no matter how efficient it would be to remove the fluid cooled from the bottom that's the opposite direction of air locks being cleared up so if you push into the bottom and push out the top outlet from the top then you remove air bubbles you push them out to a place where they can be cycled through and taking care of so that you don't have a complete loss of fluid flow which would be very very inefficient for transmission cooling so the little bit of efficiency gained by inlet at the top and outlet from the bottom is much much better dealt with and offset by in letting at the bottom and outlet at the top where you never have a airlock problem and lose flow of coolant totally.
6:27 He’s right. Measuring takes time. During my 28 years in the building trades I’ve had my tape measure out millions of times, but as often as possible we use the actual work to mark the location of cuts, holes, mounting locations, etc. it’s not only fast but more reliably accurate. Therefore, in the end it’s almost always both faster and better.
Who knew laziness could be a good thing? 😉
I'd consider installing some hardware cloth on the bottom air opening of the front cowl to protect the cooler & evaporator from stones, rocks and whatever objects from getting kicked up from traffic. Great video!
YEP. Some strategially-placed Hardware Cloth (wire mesh) can and will save your expensive Radiators and Coolers from rock damage -- it works really well to protect your rig when cruising at high speeds.
Eric, recently I saw a really nice trick to get steel to bend right were you want it without using a sheet metal break. The trick is to scribe a line with the cutoff wheel. Then your part will bend right along the line. I know you didn't have any trouble with the bar stock in this video, but this trick works really nice on sheet metal which is hard to get a sharp bend on along a long edge without using a sheet metal break.
Congratulations Eric, Nice, job Details,informative and very professional, a great learning experience to apply in my Transmission Cooler Installation. Thanks Sir.
I am a owner of one of this 2003 pilot, you have an awesome job whit this pilot, I love all the content of this pilot I can’t wait to see the final result of this pilot series
Thank you! Glad you've enjoyed the videos.
I found the OEM Transmission and upgraded P/S coolers on an MDX for $20 each at a salvage yard. I don't plan to tow, but I want the added piece of mind to keep the transmission running longer. I'm at 232K miles on an 2005 Pilot.
I definitely will do something similar if I upgrade to an aftermarket cooler. I'm looking forward to when you add a supercharger and intercooler. Thanks!
It’s a good idea to install an automatic transmission cooler on a Honda, even if you are not towing. Particularly the Odyssey transmissions. They don’t last and they need all the help and intervention they can get. I have heard that the original Pilot automatic transmission is pretty robust but, the cooler will help it to last longer.
Actually I believe the issue with Honda V6 transmissions derives from the feed tubes leaking because they didn't seal well in the case. When they start to leak, this causes the 2nd gear clutch to slip when engaged. It will eventually wear out and cause the transmission to fail. I used to work at the Acura dealer and have installed more Honda V6 transmissions than I care to count. That's not to say that installing a transmission cooler will hurt, just the opposite, just don't count on it to 'solve' the root problem with those transmissions. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Thanks for your helpful reply, Greater Cincinnati neighbor.
Any recommendation on better Odyssey ATF coolers? I want to put one on mine.
@@ericthecarguy From where do the Odyssey feeder tubes leak or into? I never saw any fluid leaks from my vehicle but did have to get the transmission changed out. Would ATF be leaking into the radiator? Does it change the fluid color or otherwise? It never seemed oily. I got a used transmission for my 2001which already has 220,000 miles, a recent timing belt, water pump and valve adjustment. If a ATF cooler might prevent future a transmission problem I’d like to install one.
Also, thank you for reading and responding to the comments.
@Jack Jones It's an internal leak. You won't see any fluid leaking externally. You could use the cooler linked in the description, same as the one in this video, for your Odyssey.
Just shy of 30 years ago I had a built '78 Cutlass - had a Goodwrench 350 crate with a HUUUGE cam, and a built TH400 transmission. Someone had installed a big cooler using those included through-radiator zip ties. Well after so many years of that engine shaking everything around, one of those zip ties sawed right through the radiator! I stopped a store one time, and saw a 1/8th inch thick pee stream of coolant coming out from the grille! My fix for that was to bolt the cooler to the core support, and add a vile of Alumaseal (back when that stuff used to work great) to stop the leak. Fixed - never had an issue with it again after that! I never replaced that radiator, lol.
Cool story! Seriously. That's the reason I hate using that form of mounting for coolers like this. It just seems like a set up for disaster. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy I agree 100%! After seeing happen this back in the day, I always throw those long zip ties in the trash. I've also had hoses slip off of lines that weren't flared a few times. Just a little flare in the line makes all the difference. More difficult to install the hose, but it will not come off, so long as the clamp is intact.
When I was started training as automotive technician here in Philippines I always watch your video!! you mr.eric the car guy and mr.scanner Danner is great teacher for the begginer ☺️☺️☺️
sir may itatanong sana ako :) hehe may built in transmission cooler naba ang strada 4n15
Amazing job you actually went beyond the extra mile by welding those brackets it turn out perfect big thanks well explained ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I installed a Hayden 679 on my 2016 FJ Cruiser. I routed from the radiator cooler to the Hayden 679 and then to the transmission. The radiator cooler in fact is a oil stabilizer rather than a true cooler and therefore it brings up the oil to the operating temperature faster. I installed a Magnefine filter in between the external cooler and the one from radiator to keep the oil clean.
When I got my external cooler, I oversized mine. Knowing this, once I got it marked up, I also marked up where I needed to trim to ensure I trimmed the least amount off the grille. Mine was also installed but was far enough that I could install an electric fan. If I do not get enough flow, one switch can change that.
I have always seen that when talking about orientation of the cooler, you can mount it to where the inlet/outlet point left or right, and point up, but not down so the cooler doesn't trap air pockets. You said/showed that the inlet/outlet could be installed down. Which, would potentially trap air pockets. Just an observation.
Same and he did not sound "sure" about it when he explained it. I believe you are correct. Even the manufacturer diagram shows the inlet and outlet pointed upwards.
he should put the inlet at the lower position as well. High intake also traps air and reduces efficiency where liquid comes from bottom can purge air away from top .
Thank you for the install overview, especially right after the trans fluid has a chance to pass through the radiator first!
I got one of those it works great in my Honda 2005 honda odyssey. After my trany blew out, I found out that the existing trany cooler was located in the lower compartment of the radiator: A design flaw from Honda Odyssey. Apparently there is insufficient cooling ( heat rejection) when we rely on the radiator to cool the hot transmission fluid. Transmission failures occur a lot sooner. A separate radiator to bring the transmission fluid into the air stream is a great solution.
I have a 1999 Mercury mountaineer 5.0 with a 4r70w and it came with a factory external cooler. I just hit 400k on the factory engine and transmission and have never had any major transmission issues except for the notorious 1-2 accumulator spring that breaks but that was an easy fix. I have never towed with the vehicle so I’m guessing that external cooler is probably the main reason the transmission has lasted so long :)
If the gap between the new trans cooler and the radiator is too large, the air won't pull through the trans cooler. It will be much easier to pull air around the trans cooler instead of through it. That's why they give you an option of mounting to to the radiator. Use a smoke machine and see the air flow. It will always take the path of least resistance, and if there's too big a path around, it will go around.
This applies only to the airflow caused by the fan pulling. At driving speed, the air will ram through it obviously.
Thanks for suggesting a way to verify what's happening!
Did any one have installed 3 or 4 side guards to close the side gaps, between the small ATF cooler & the larger air conditioner condenser, so that the air is more effectively pulled thru the smaller ATF cooler during any speed below 25mph?.
Transmission fluid routing should be the radiator before transmission. This way, in winter, the transmission fluid is not too cold. Same thing when you are stuck in traffic, you are not going to get any airflow so the radiator will do it's job to cool the transmission fluid. Even if you are not towing, transmission cooler should extend the life of the transmission.
That was my understanding, as well. The heat exchanger in the radiator should be last in line, so it can regulate the fluid temperature before it goes back into the transmission. If you put the aftermarket unit last in line, it might take longer for the transmission to warm up, especially in cold weather. That said, Eric bypassed the heat exchanger entirely. So in his case, it's a moot point.
@@michaelblacktree The instructions I've read from aftermarket auxiliary coolers put the new unit immediately before the return to the trans. I totally get what you're both saying, though. Hmm what to do...
Eric great video! I recently discovered the trans cooler lines were installed to the wrong inlet/outlet (also vertical configuration) when the radiator was replaced and this video helped me understand that better. It was pushing fluid up not down! I've been having weird shifting, heavy, clunky and I think is because they installed it wrong causing oil starvation. My next step is to check for debris. I always learn something new in your videos thanks
no he got it wrong where. the liquid should be going in at bottom and exit on top, otherwise air will be trapped in the radiator. Your problem is a separate issue, maybe a leak but not the radiators problem.
@@ddjohnson9717 thank you for your feedback. My 2009 Infiniti FX35 RWD, trans: RE7R01A. I confirmed the direction with dealership repair manual (which is spreadout in 4 different pages!) and found a transmission guide to from Lubegard - Cooler Return Line Chart to quickly ID inlet/outlet flow for my model. Once I fixed it, I had a trans specialist refill fluid. Now the trans runs smooth on cold starts and no more leaks good temps good pressure. just completed a 1K mile trip safe and sound 😁
@@MSMgamer190 Yeah I was reviewing the instructions and it seems like the direction is based on the types and config of the radiator. Its better to talk this on a case to case bases. Thank you for the follow up!
I was taught to do it through the radiator first, but it makes sense to eliminate the chance of an internal radiator leak
I covered that in the video. Thanks for the comment.
Eric, this car has really turned out much better than I would have ever imagined. It is a nice, safe and (in a way) a better car than when it was new. I like that you "fix" things and extend the life of cars that would otherwise be junked. That's what sustainability is all about! I look forward to more videos on this car especially the the "super charger".
Thank you!
I'm driving a 1996 Dodge Intrepid (3.5L) with 307,000 miles. I'm hoping that it will be the last car I ever own. I always make sure the maintenance is done in a timely manner, and I think the car can reach 500,000 miles. There are only two problems I can foresee: 1.) Parts are getting harder and harder to come by and 2.) If someone hits me, any damage will likely result in the car being totaled, and I would be unable to replace it with a car in the same condition for the money I would collect. I'm frequently frustrated (and usually angered) by the disposable society we now have. When I was younger, everything was fixed rather than replaced.
I have a Honda civic 2012 coupe everything is factory designed besides an cold air intake (I dint tow anything )I was wondering if I need to get an transmssion cooler for the hot temp. In south texas Or if my car is safe enough to handle it via it’s build design? Any thing helps
I recommend finding a way to read your transmission temp as you drive. 176f is the sweet spot, >200 is bad, >220 really bad. I use elm327 program on an android phone with cheap elm bluetooth ODB2 dongle. @@danieltenorio3559
Inlet and outlet side to side or UP is usually recommended. Down is not recommended as it can trap air pockets, decreasing cooler efficiency.
The cooler routing is probably specified to bypass the radiator as if your trans failed (since you are installing a reman), your trans cooler in the radiator could still be filled with contamination that will just be dumped right back into the new trans. For daily drivers in northern states, I typically route trans>radiator>cooler>trans to help with warm up in the winter. The toys just go to a cooler and back.
Spot on. Some coolers, like the one on my truck, video linked in the description, block flow when cold to help with warm up. Thanks for the comment.
I had towed 2 vehicles last month with my (new to me) 07 Pilot, a camry with alternator issues and the other is flooded honda element , to my surprise it did it with ease through some rough BC mountains and p0420 code
The Pilot looks sharp. Nice work installing the additional transmission cooler. That'll be tough figuring out how much trans fluid between the cooler itself and the line from and to it. What would make it rough is if don't have a transmission dipstick to check it. If possible to put commercial break pads, rotors and break fluid on for higher heat and weight when towing. Myself are a fan of factory Iridium spark plugs if can use or real good name brand iridium spark plugs. This way won't have to change them probably as long as have the vehicle.
I mounted mine on the driver's windshield wiper. Serves three purposes,
1) it's always getting good airflow...
2) in the winter, it prevents ice from building up on the wiper...and
3) when it starts to leak, I will immediately see it.
Brilliant actually.
🤣🤣🤣
BTW Where did you run the hoses?
Nothing but the best from Brother Eric the car guy!
Now I'm looking for a blower for my J series. Darn you Eric the Car Guy!
To get you started. Check toward the end of the video. th-cam.com/video/11nl6FCkr-s/w-d-xo.html
Putting the cooler inline with another rad can make too much head pressure on some, that is why most want you to bypass the OE.
On the modded final bracket, you can trim down the bolts as they are a tad longer than needed.
With the bracket, you can add something rubber/plastic to make a shroud and make the fan suck through, and the hoses you can do the zip tie lock or use the plastic plugs into body trim with a loop for the Zippy, to make them more rigid and less likely to rub.
I was wondering why you bypassed oe cooler. Question answered by fellow etcg viewers. Thanks!
I put a cooler in my 08 TL for added reinsurance that my fresh rebuild lasts. I didn't really have time or space to mount it with brackets so I used the supplied zip ties. Works great and keeps the temp down especially in the hot summer. Plus the shift feel better when harming down.
@@oldskolacura9798 Yah the 08 has a big opening just in front of the radiator that can be accessed underneath. Like you I just removed the hold downs to separate the condenser and radiator so not to zip lock all the radiators together. It's a pretty easy job to add one.
I towed my G8 with a 97 T100 2wd.. the rpms were in the 3,500 range but the truck took it like a champ
Thanks - that instructive video was excellent! I will be fitting a Mishimoto radiator and universal transmission cooler to my Subaru Forester automatic. The OEM unit combines cooling in the radiator which has plastic tanks and is prone to failure. I was never sure of how the setup would work until watching your video. I now have the confidence to tackle it myself.
It’s nice to see quality installation great job.
I agree with you Eric about not installing it straight to the condenser because in my experience I tried that and end up turning out the cooler alone itself was too heavy and pull down on the fin which of course is connected to those tubes and the condenser busted open. People think those tubes are strong enough to not be broken by those fins but they are aluminum welded which means yes they do have the ability to take a piece of that tubing along with them. Now maybe someone can get away with one of those 4x11 coolers(non stacked,just straight tubing) but again big risk because those sharp fins from cooler could possibly stab those condenser fins and break open the ports.
I think it was fine where you had it the first time. Like you said, "sitting in traffic wouldn't cool it very well. But also, when you're sitting in traffic, you're not using your transmission much either... I do like that you changed it though, because the one place that this will work better on now is a slow crawl while off-roading; When your pulling up hills and rocks and going very slow-- the transmission is getting used quite a bit, but you're not moving much. Maybe you're pulling a camper trailer up the side of a rocky mountain trail--- moving it closer like you did will help it. One other thing that you could have done and can STILL do really, is to put little side walls all around it, and create it's own little plastic shroud that butts right up to the condenser to help that fan FORCE the air through your trans cooler.. So a custom shroud around your trans cooler is one more upgrade if you really need even better cooling for a serious off road rig or something; but I doubt you'll ever need it. Nice upgrade.
When the cooler is oriented in that manner the return should be up TOP to push air out... radiators do it differently as you must bleed them with a cap at the highest point of the system.
Honestly I think you can hook it up either way. The transmission pressure should force all the air out no matter the orientation. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy LOL you double down on incorrect advice. I will give you 1M usd if you can get all the air out of that trans cooler installed with inlet and outlet pointing down without modification on the cooler or pre bleed. You will have an air pocket on the top corner outlet side. Make a makeshift plexiglass radiator, and you will see. That is why cooling systems have bleed valves.
@@harrycee656
You don't have a 1M you just want to bluff and try to win a situation that nobody needs to win. You do the way you think is right and let the others do it the way the think is right at the end nothing else is going to happen 😎🤔
@@harrycee656 isn't this orientation the same as a normal in-radiator set up?
It sounds right, but it's not. Your inlet should be on the top of the cooler, and outlet/return to trans should be on the bottom, because heat rises you should always put your outlet on the bottom. ASC Certified advice.
Thanks for the information and education. Yes I have had those plastic anchor ties poking through the rad fail and it’s much better to fabricate some solution as you show if you have the skill set.
Nice... simple and to the point. I really like the way you utilize what ever you have around you and the hardware store to make modifications needed to make it work. Awesome video....
Thanks, I learn something every time I see your videos- Stay safe.
I like the way this external transmission cooler is routed. I never liked how do you route it from the transmission to the radiator and from the radiator to the external trans cooler and then back to the transmission. I like it this way better and I’m gonna do it on my 2005 H2 Hummer plus I need to do it this way because I’m doing an E fan conversion and those trans cooler lines are in the way of the fans. Deleting those two trans coolers on the radiator will make the conversion much easier and I won’t have to do any modifications to the fan like shaving off material
I've been watching Erics beard grow over the last 11 years. Its been great
Hey Eric, thanks again for another helpful video. However in regards to your comments in the beginning of this video, you should never mount the cooler with the lines coming in from the bottom as this may allow an air pocket at the top of the cooler and reduce efficiency!
Nicely done, yet again!!! Thanks for the demo and logic behind the installation. 😃
Your videos have helped me tremendously over the years. Not planning on installing a transmission cooler any time soon, but always look forward to your videos every week no matter what it is.
Thank you!
very cool! thorough job. final touch: paint the bolt heads flat black so they do not show when looking through the bumper!
Actually, I like the way that looks. Thanks for the comment.
Watch it because your videos are "cool" and "fun to watch"? Well..it is true. I always enjoy your content.
Did I hear “Supercharger”?! Thank you ECTG! Awesome video!
Yes. th-cam.com/video/11nl6FCkr-s/w-d-xo.html
great job. congrats! But avoid to use this kind of clamp hoses for the oil line, they are more for plumbing or garden use. they can damage the hose when tided and leak by the time. Use insted the honda part 90635-rv0-003
Eric, Everything I've seen, shows the Trans cooler mounted pointing up or to the sides, pointing down may cause air to trap.
P.S. my radiator had 100k miles on it, so when I had trans rebuilt, (largest plate and fin cooler) I bypassed it. Didn't want to destroy a newly rebuilt trans, or 300k mile engine.
This looks like a lot of fun.
19:37 or just use conduit/wire sleeving
Wire loom or spiral wrap as chafing gear on those hoses is the way to go.
THANK YOU FOR USING A HIGH OUTPUT BATTERY ON A FUEL TOOL. FINALLY!! I'M SICK OF SEEING PEOPLE USE 5.0s ON A FUEL.
Depends on what you’re doing. 5.0 are ok for most. 4.0 are the ones that burn your windings under heavy load.
8.0 and up for heavier tools like 1/2 impact or saws.
Eric....Pro-install and you get an A+ for attention to detail!
The trans cooler company is correct about NOT using the hot radiator to cool the trans fluid.
Thanks a lot for videoing this project. I'm going to be doing this next weekend and you showed me some good tips and things to look out for. Much appreciated.
I'm curious if you could tell me how the transmission fluid pumps through the cooler. Thanks again.
That's was awesome brother. I Luv the install. Great content as well. That tip about cutting a piece of hose to act like kind of a wire loom or something similar is really great. Thank you brother.
Yep I’m just here because you’re cool and fun to watch.
Thank you!
Nice job on the install, that cooler looks like a Hayden 678 which is what I just bought for my Jeep. I'll be mounting it with steel strap as well.
I mounted the fan shrouds on my other Jeep the same way, by welding studs to the upper core support piece. Great minds think alike. 👍
For sliding on hoses I like Wurth Rubber Care. Works awesome for lubricating rubber & plastic and does't leave any residue. We used it on everything in the body shop including painted parts.
Excellent choice... I used the Hayden #678 (marketed by Davies Craig here in Oz) on my XJ Cherokee (radiator bypass config) and it made a noticeable difference in reducing the thermal loading on the transmission as we get brutal summers here, I am just about to fit another to our next XJ 🤣
Awesome video Eric!!! thanks a ton. Insanely clean and well thought out install.
True. Your videos are cool and fun to watch😁👍
Thank you Eric I really appreciate and entertaining videos I am watching from South Africa
Thank you!
Oh great!! I search to find something easier to install my honda 95. Some videos not clear well. Thanks. I keep in mind. 😃
The weight of the the upper hose will break the nipple off.
When you said "I'm excited for you" I really thought this was the etcg1 channel and you were gonna segue to a birthday wish
I like this build for my son’s 04 Pilot
You could just add a band a transmission pan for the aftermarket transmission cooler that will help a lot as well
I’m not exactly sure which car it was, but it remember a few years back why I bypass radiator coolers. some of them fail in a way that causes the coolant and transmission fluid to mix. If I had to guess, that’s why yours wants you to bypass it.
Actually they wan't to avoid getting contaminated fluid in the new transmission. Thanks for the comment.
i just picked up a used car. it had a trans cooler on it. Funny as it was mounted the same with zip ties just loose hanging like the beginning of this video. I took care of that real quick.
This is going to sound like a stupid question from a complete novice , but what were the input and output points on the transmission connected to before you installed the hoses from the transmission cooler?
It doesn't matter if u hooke them up in a certain order😭
Very well done. That was enjoyable to watch
Thx bro. Gotta new built th 400. Thanks for all your Tide bits
that turned out really well
Thanks!
FYI... Your videos are cool, and are fun to watch...
It's a stack of radiators in the front. It's interesting to see just how much extra cooling capacity the AC condenser and engine radiator have to be able to let add-ins like this sit in front of them.
Not as much as you might think. Keep in mind that everything on the front is designed for airflow. This might be a good time to bust out the thermal camera to see for myself. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy please update us with the thermal camera imaging results.
@@ericthecarguy I feel like cooling's the last place an engineer wants to trim back, because cooling is one of those systems that when it fails, it takes other stuff down with it.
They also don't want to cheap out on the AC, because an owner's going to notice their own discomfort very fast.
That said, I'm not an auto tech or an engineer. Add me in to the crowd interested in the thermal camera results.
Great video as always! As far as I know it's okay to install the cooler with the ends pointing up, I can't think of a reason that would be bad. I'm curious what your logic is for recommending against that? Only thing to watch out for is if the cooler is installed with the tubes running horizontally, the entire cooler must get good airflow because the fluid running through the tubes without good airflow will effectively be not getting cooled so it's definitely best to install the cooler with the tubes running vertically if the entire cooler can't get good airflow so all the fluid running through the cooler gets cooled.
BMW runs an oil cooler from the factory with the ends pointing up. It's fine.
The installation instructions for the cooler. Although, this is something that is debated in the automotive community. Many say that it doesn't matter because there is enough pressure to prevent air from getting into the system. Personally, I like to err on the side of caution. Although some coolers are designed to restrict flow during a cold start up. With those I suspect positioning is more important. Thanks for the comment.
The best and the right way. Thank you Eric for this tutorial
A nicely done & professional-looking install. I have 3 questions tho:
1. Don’t you run the risk of lowering ATF temps too much in the winter if you bypass the factory cooler?
2. I’ve always heard that oil coolers flow the opposite of radiators because otherwise you run the risk of getting air trapped in the cooler. Is this not true?
3. How does a transmission heat up more when it’s under no virtually load at idle vs accelerating while towing?
Man, For question number one shit I live in California we don’t have to worry about that
LONGTIME havent seen a video of yours.
Great one.
Ive always read that you want the inlet at the bottom so the cooler ‘fills up’ completely then flows out of the top. No idea if its true, but I guess some people think there isnt enough flow and you may end up with a water fall effect inside of the cooler which doesn’t utilize 100% of the cooler.
I wouldnt think the hot cold theory would apply since heat doesnt rise in a solid object like it does with a liquid or air. Since the fluid is flowing, the less dense fluid wouldnt have time to move about to make a difference.
If you look at a radiator or even a condenser, they are set up the way I set this cooler up, with the inlet at the top. I've never seen a radiator get hot water from the bottom.
@@ericthecarguy Just flushed my condenser a week or so ago (system was packed full of oil) and it actually goes in the bottom and out the top. When you have high flow like that, the liquid cant separate due to density. It may separate in the radiator since it has side tanks and the coolant flow is low unless the thermostat is wide open. Same with the trans cooler, the flow is just too high for the fluid to separate due to temp. Ive got to imagine that either way will work just fine though. Having the bigger aux trans cooler is what really matters. I just found it interesting that you did it opposite of what the 'keyboard experts' always said to do.
Always a great eye for detail, buddy!
Very timey as I need to do this exact thing on my S10 as I've now put 2 condensers in it and it'll be getting a 3rd this summer. The previous owner zip tied it to the condenser and it rubbed through.
it looks spot on, It's very neat and looks like it belongs there :-D
You are so good at fabrication eric.
Just think about the things you have made and recreation of chassis parts.
Ill give you 11 out of ten lol.
Thank you! As a former artist, I really enjoy making things, especially out of metal. Even better if I can drive it when I'm done. I suppose I never really grew up. Have a great weekend.