You da man, bro. Your explanation is to the point, presented with modesty and professionalism. I just wish we were all as humble and without the attitude. Kudos and thank you.
I usually just cut one side and open it u with a screwdriver twisting it like a screw it to each his own a lot of people dont realize that this can be done thanks for putting this out there
Great video, one little tip I could add is that when using double hose clamps you can get a stronger seal/clamp by installing the clamps so the screws are on opposite sides of the hose from eachother, the can be setup so that the screws both face the same direction but are still on opposite sides of the hose. This is how its done in the marine industry. Great video!!
easy to understand, very professional and clear, this competent mechanic approach made it easy enough for me to understand the extent of the issue and that there are other effective ways to solving the problem at a fraction of the dealer's rip-off price. Thank you very much and thanks to TH-cam for making this sort of info/help sharing available for all to benefit
Wow everyone's ideas are better than the one who actually took a lot of time to demonstrate and teach someone to save them money and gets criticize like crazy for doing so. I applaud you Ben for a good video and awesome money saver.
after an oil line leak i dove through the internet looking for a good fix and the worst option seems to be buying a new line. i have seen how to use 1/2 into 3/8 compression fittings to replace the OEM connector with its o rings and weird 8 dollar holding clips or using a barbed 3/8 to 1/2 inch connector. Or having the line replaced with hydraulic hose and fittings any shop that works with hydraulic's will crimp it for free. Replacing the hose by cutting off after the crimps . and now this ..just cutting the crimp off and saving the entire line. i love the internet. you know..or just go by a new line from doorman or acdelco and be back to square one in 3 years MAX haha you decide.
I'd say replace the hose but otherwise this is going to be my fix. If it was a newer line I'd convert to AN fittings or something but this is my trail rig and this is the kind of fix I like lol
I had 2 leaks from the same hose fittings on my 89 jeep XJ, did not want to go get new lines, instead got 2 steel hose clamps from home depot and clamped it down medium snug on the middle of the fitting, worked very well for me, therefore no more leaks, total cost $ 2.23.
@@williamlindsay3912 No sir, one clamp did not stop the leak first attempt, I used 2 steel clamps in tandem across, I mean on top of the existing crimp fitting, snug it down in increments till you have no leaks.
Thx 4 ur tip I wanna try it on my 2003 Cadillac CTS. Can you tell me the exact name and size/specs of the 2 steel hose clamps you got from Home Depot? I would really appreciate it. Thank you good sir.
We have had our 2005 Subaru Forester stuck in the workshop for 2 months and 2weeks because of this crimp. mechanic literally rebuilt the transmission to fix our ATF leak, the leak kept coming from above the transmission which eventually lead me to believe it HAS to be something else and something simple. a little bit of research and i came across this epic helpful video. the mechanic has even challenged me to come fix this fault as he feels the crimping is leak proof. thank you so much, I plan to kick his ass when I'm done and if your fix works. this the only logical fix left. THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!!!
Nice job and thanks for sharing, especially for those of us who would rather avoid going broke buying new OEM steel lines for older cars/trucks! One suggestion... for those who are unable to get the hose past the flange or for steel lines that might not have a ridge... grab, borrow or rent a brake flaring tool and add a small flare to the tip of the steel pipe to keep the hose from slipping off and roasting your trans from instant fluid loss :)
You are right ! Mine came off without the double flare ! Mine came off going down the freeway about sixty miles per hour !! pulled off the highway immediately , too late my tranny was fried on a 2008 GMC Sierra ! 4000 dollars latter i'm back on the road! Owned my truck since it was new ,56000 miles used Mobil one every oil change at only 2500 to 3000 miles , I have taken great care of all my vehicles all my life ! I'm 71 years old! My first short cut and diffidently my last ! I will just buy the right part from now on! Small pension and social security this mistake really set me back ! Just something to think about before doing !
Yeah, I never understood why dealerships still charge OEM prices on parts for a vehicle 20+ years old🤔 Over time the car price falls yet they still want the same amount of money for X part as they did when the car was brand-new.
You are so nice! Hay ive had this quick fix on my 97 chevy k1500 for bout 3yrs now. Until today I just ordered the line. Fixing tomorrow. Thanks Teresa
Good back-yard fix; however I would strongly suggest you use high pressure hose clamps like the type that are for fuel injection lines. While the regular hose clamps you have will work, they can fail with the hose pressure constantly fluctuating, especially on higher loads, such as towing. I've had several blow completely off when towing a heavy load. A fuel injection type clamp and QUALITY high-pressure hose cost a bit more but they are far less likely to fail. Living out here in the boonies, I keep a variety of sizes in my tool box for this reason. They are useful for all sorts of fixes. Just my 2-cents and thanks for the video!
I definitely agree. The market is flooded with sub par clamps, so be careful what you’re using. Wouldn’t wanna turn a quick back yard fix into a backyard lawn ornament/ HOA citation etc.
@@rikityrik Those cheap worm screw hose clamps are almost unusable. And they filet the rubber hose open if you apply too much pressure. Fuel injection clamps are the only way to roll!! Worth the $$
I wouldn’t use silicone on the connection and used to do this all the time and what I learned is if you use something smooth and larger than a hose to expand it and put it in boiling water for a few then it will slip on no problem
I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to split the crimp fitting on the heater core hose. I had do it still in the car and the Dremel is small enough to get in there easily.
This was greatly useful. While diagnosing my car's coolant leak, I discovered that my transmission cooling line was leaking something fierce. This fix should go a long way to helping solve this issue. Thanks!
Blessings and great info, my Explorer was just diagnosed with a leaking hose and they told me I need a new radiator, I do believe I just need a fitting and everything will be ok, Thank you much and God Bless
Thanks for the in-depth explanation, now I just have to try this on my 2011 Avalanche as one of mine is leaking. It looked like mine was leaking from the tiny pin hole on the fitting but after watching this video something tells me different. Looks like a simple reasonable fix, just have to find a good quality clamp to trust holding whatever pressure that line holds. Thanks again for taking us along, I'll be dealing with mine in the next couple days.
Hey, my hose is also leaking from this small rubber hole at the fitting, did you cut the metal fitting and put clamps or did you just clamp over the metal crimp fitting?
@supermancreations7588 I cut off the metal crip that way I could feed more hose onto the fitting and used two clamps that way I knew it was tight. Mine has been holding great.
@@mikebas7325 I have been reading comments and some guys say they did not cut the crimp, they clamped with it, I assume I should go for that and see if I saves cutting and stuff, if it doesn't then the last option is evident
Get a cup of hot water and dip the end of the hose in it for a minute or 2. It will soften right up and slide right on, then, as it cools, it will form to the shape of the pipe/flare that you are pushing it over.
@SerenoOunce then maybe a heat gun or as such to warm the rubber. A little goes a long way when your working in unheated garage in the Winter, Midwest.
Great video. Depending on the vehicle I cannot imagine this is doable with the line still connected under the car, needs to be removed first to do this trick the right way.
Excellent and concise. You describe putting it back in the same orientation ;how you can mark the hose and the hard line and match it up. You're explanations and attention to detail is top-notch thank you! I would let you work on my 1994 Cadillac DeVille V8 original Chevy engine ( not north star)😆car any day.
Theoretically, if you have a very small pry tool, or a very little flathead, you could un pry all the fixtures and slide it off, but it might still leak after you retighten it
i remember this video a few years back and i finally had to do my outlet side on my 96 grand cherokee jeep. glade this video was still posted man thanks a million for the tip. i did it before but with a side grinder very carfully. but now that i got a drimmel kit il use it sence im going to be in a tight spot on this one.
Great fix for my 97 ram Cummins truck. After replacing the leaking hose with a new factory quick connect one from napa....it started to leak again. After further inspection, it appears the metal line has worn a groove causing the o ring inside the quick connect to leak. On your method of fix for now..went down to napa and bought some 1/2 inch oil cooler hose and installed it just like you did making sure I went past the flange....no leaks yet. This may prove a better fix than replacing with quick connects. I'll have to replace metal cooler lines if I want the quick connect which will be a major PITA.
It worked, clear generic silicone tape, on a leaking oil cooler line that has up to 65psi of hot oil in it. It was leaking 1 quart every 200 to 300 miles and now it's leaking none. 350 miles later of mountain, Interstate, and town driving. Used 2 hours of time (half was cleaning hose) and a $7 10' roll of silicone tape that I wanted to test. Took about 30" of clear tape to do one end of the hose while on the car. I prefer the clear as it allows me to see through it. I developed a technique to do it in tight space. Gave it 3 overlapping layers in a different pattern. Straight wrap, diagonal, then straight again. Any pattern works but important to have different seal points of different wrapping and do it as tight as you can, with space provided. Also important to squeeze and rub firmly on it to get each layer to fuse for 5 minutes or so before the next layer and the final layer. If it's higher than 65psi I would also place single double wrapped pieces directly over the leak, for extra strength material before the first layer of the 3 wraps. Or wrap it 4 times.
Thank you for the vid. Awesome. Taught in automotive school and plumbing. Hose clamps should be opposite one another for strength and torque pull. Just FYI. Thanks again
Awesome video, thanks for all the detail!! 👍 you're the man..take care boss!! (P.s. where i'm from in northern Canada it would cost me well over $800 for the whole cooler line assembly, jmp)
Thank you for this video! My 05 Caravan split a transmission hose and they are no longer available, even from a dealer. I used this method to cut off the rubber hose and clamp a new hose on.
My trans cooler line (crimp) is starting to leak. Did you do the work without removing line? Does a lot of oil come out and did you have to bleed air when finished? Thanks, Don
@@donsmith9081 I removed the lines. My line split while driving so I lost a lot of trans oil. I only had a little bit dribble out of the hoses. There's some pressure in those lines when the trans is operating so you really don't need to worry about bleeding. At least not with a DGC!
Good call, thanks for posting. Makes me wonder if throwing a stainless steel hose clamp over that failed crimp would stop the leak without removing it.
I thought my transmission cooler lines were leaking but it turns out it’s the larger oil cooler lines. These lines are very difficult to change on a Chevrolet pick-up with four wheel drive. Think I’ll try your idea on them. Thanks for the video!
do you have a newer one? i saw on the gmt400 /480 platform shit is wedged in pretty good...i wish'd i had 4wd on my 98 serria slt until i had to work on it lol
1). Use the system fluid as the lubricant to not contaminate. 2). Two hose clamps is over kill. 3). Using a ratchet on the hose clamps is over kill, Oz-lbs torquing is required (per industrial instructions). A nut driver would suffice for adeqtorq
Yep a better way to recycle, nice job. Thank you, you give me confidence in trying. Just one little thing i would have done different, i would have put that first clamp on directly over the first flare and slightly beyond about 1/16", and not just up to the flare. Over the flare and 1'16" beyond, that way it crimps the hose on the opposite side of the flare truly preventing it from slipping off. So it would be putting the clamp up to the second flare, and clamping over the first flare crimping the hose between the first and second flares. That is in essence how they did it, that metal clamp crimped beyond the first flare in the grove between the flares.
Essentially a poor man's tubing bead tool... Works "good enough" for those of us that can't deal with the $500 pricetag of the Parker tools and don't want to machine arbors for a pipe cutter Parker tool knockoff.
at the start of the video I was like "pfft, Amateur hour..." then I watched it till the end... very cool little find, it's sad that they use those clamps, yes they fail more but... at least you can fix them on the side of the road with stuff from the hardware store
Great job. Much appreciated. I do all the work on My vehicles and although I’ve never had to do this I had heard from a friend this is what he did as well. You demonstrated it very well. So much so that I might go and fix my 17 yr old suburban which I can almost guarantee is wet at these interfaces. Not enough to be a major issue but enough to go in and fix. I might even get new hose at the same time! I bought a Glarks 80Pcs 7-21mm 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Stepless Hose Clamps with Pincers Kit which is a nice alternative to the hose clamp. Thanks again great job
Spraying brakes cleaner inside of the rubber hose will lubricate it so it will slide easier on the metal connector. Brakes cleaner evaporates quick and leaves no residue
I already have a double flare tool for the end of the hose so I just make a double flare on the end which is way easier than trying to get the hose over that ridge.
The crimps on the main trans cooler lines for my 07 F150 are just beginning to leak. There is only 1 aftermarket option (Dorman) they have a known history of leaking crimps and poorly made quick connects, the dealer part is north of $200 because the lines are only sold as a pair. My solution is that i plan on eliminating the hose section altogether. I am going to cut off the quick connect section flare it and run new hard lines to the metering block and couple the new lines to the original quick connect section.
Great top, yes its always better to change it but if nothing ia available. O woild use a heat gun to make the hose pliable and aid to get it over that flare, it is a great idea really great idea thanks!!
Can't believe that tube wasn't barbed at all. I Recently fixed my power steering return line. The metal portion was rotten and had a pin hole leak. I wound up cutting the hose on both sides of the steel line and connected the two together with a brass barbed 90 elbow and used hose clamps. The vehicle won't be long for this world anyway. No leaks!
I installed a clamp to the power steering hose on my little brother's 1998 Chevy Prizm to stop a leak at the bottom of the power steering reservoir. All it cost was like a dollar lol. It's been holding up for more than 3 months now.
What you need here is a Ring stretcher used in jewelry shops. You slide the hose over it, pump the handle and the spreader expands . It is cone shaped so hose should slide down a few inches.
I watched other transmission videos and none of them show transmission lines inside the fender well or wherever they're running but I have not seen when my transmission lines run and I do have a leak in it though
Great show, very informative and now I'm down the road with no leaks. I used zip ties with the metal tabs (available @ home depot) instead of those cheap metal hose clamps. Thank You!
Use German Fuel Injection clamps, Rotor Clip constant tension band clamps, or Oetiker ear clamps. Worm clamps don't have an inner band to keep the hose from extruding through the slots in the band. When enough of the hose extrudes through the clamp band the hose will loosen up on the hardline... it'll be leaking again in as few as 1,000 miles.
Two comments. Worm clamps, like you are using, will shortly loosen up as the outer jacket of the cooler hose extrudes through the slots. I Use Fuel Injection hose clamps. They don't cost much more than the Ideal worm clamps. They can exert more force on the hose connections because they don't have holes or slots in the clamping band to extrude the hose through and relieve the pressure. SAE J1019 oil cooler hose is the right stuff to use and it's not expensive. You can easily get quality Gates, Continental, etc SAE J1019 rated hose in the correct inside diameter at your local NAPA, O'Riley, etc. I would never re-use a hose in this application. Ozone, time, and heat degrades the rubber and cloth layers of the original hoses making them either too hard or too soft. Usually oil cooler hose gets hard. Inflexible is not a good property in a hose intended to flex when the engine and transmission moves in relation to the radiators. If you google "hoses and clamps 67-72" one of the hits is a post I made on a chevy truck board about SAE hose types and clamps to use... I tried to make it short and sweet because it's a pretty dry topic but it ended up pretty long winded.
This type of hose clamp has sharp edges and can cut through the rubber pipe if you tighten too much. That’s why car manufacturers never use them. I would put a piece of rubber between the clamps and the hose, like maybe a piece of an old hose
_Great_ video - no music, clear audio, plain English, steady camera, nice slow explaination. Thanks Ben.
thank god useless distracting shit they call music
You da man, bro. Your explanation is to the point, presented with modesty and professionalism. I just wish we were all as humble and without the attitude. Kudos and thank you.
I usually just cut one side and open it u with a screwdriver twisting it like a screw it to each his own a lot of people dont realize that this can be done thanks for putting this out there
Great video, one little tip I could add is that when using double hose clamps you can get a stronger seal/clamp by installing the clamps so the screws are on opposite sides of the hose from eachother, the can be setup so that the screws both face the same direction but are still on opposite sides of the hose. This is how its done in the marine industry. Great video!!
easy to understand, very professional and clear, this competent mechanic approach made it easy enough for me to understand the extent of the issue and that there are other effective ways to solving the problem at a fraction of the dealer's rip-off price. Thank you very much and thanks to TH-cam for making this sort of info/help sharing available for all to benefit
Wow everyone's ideas are better than the one who actually took a lot of time to demonstrate and teach someone to save them money and gets criticize like crazy for doing so. I applaud you Ben for a good video and awesome money saver.
after an oil line leak i dove through the internet looking for a good fix and the worst option seems to be buying a new line. i have seen how to use 1/2 into 3/8 compression fittings to replace the OEM connector with its o rings and weird 8 dollar holding clips or using a barbed 3/8 to 1/2 inch connector. Or having the line replaced with hydraulic hose and fittings any shop that works with hydraulic's will crimp it for free. Replacing the hose by cutting off after the crimps . and now this ..just cutting the crimp off and saving the entire line. i love the internet. you know..or just go by a new line from doorman or acdelco and be back to square one in 3 years MAX haha you decide.
I'd say replace the hose but otherwise this is going to be my fix. If it was a newer line I'd convert to AN fittings or something but this is my trail rig and this is the kind of fix I like lol
Fuck off brandon
That's a $23 part that he's messing with right there
Your video was a blessing to me today. I was able to fix my transmission line quickly with parts I have in the shop. Thanks so much and God Bless!
I had 2 leaks from the same hose fittings on my 89 jeep XJ, did not want to go get new lines, instead got 2 steel hose clamps from home depot and clamped it down medium snug on the middle of the fitting, worked very well for me, therefore no more leaks, total cost $ 2.23.
So you did not take the crimp fitting off?
@@williamlindsay3912 No sir, one clamp did not stop the leak first attempt, I used 2 steel clamps in tandem across, I mean on top of the existing crimp fitting, snug it down in increments till you have no leaks.
Thank you.
@Dawood K
I was thinking the same but I wasn’t sure if it’s going to work, thanks for the tip 👍
Thx 4 ur tip I wanna try it on my 2003 Cadillac CTS. Can you tell me the exact name and size/specs of the 2 steel hose clamps you got from Home Depot? I would really appreciate it. Thank you good sir.
We have had our 2005 Subaru Forester stuck in the workshop for 2 months and 2weeks because of this crimp. mechanic literally rebuilt the transmission to fix our ATF leak, the leak kept coming from above the transmission which eventually lead me to believe it HAS to be something else and something simple. a little bit of research and i came across this epic helpful video. the mechanic has even challenged me to come fix this fault as he feels the crimping is leak proof. thank you so much, I plan to kick his ass when I'm done and if your fix works. this the only logical fix left. THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!!!
Nice job and thanks for sharing, especially for those of us who would rather avoid going broke buying new OEM steel lines for older cars/trucks! One suggestion... for those who are unable to get the hose past the flange or for steel lines that might not have a ridge... grab, borrow or rent a brake flaring tool and add a small flare to the tip of the steel pipe to keep the hose from slipping off and roasting your trans from instant fluid loss :)
Thank you! Excellent info about flaring end.
You are right ! Mine came off without the double flare ! Mine came off going down the freeway about sixty miles per hour !! pulled off the highway immediately , too late my tranny was fried on a 2008 GMC Sierra ! 4000 dollars latter i'm back on the road! Owned my truck since it was new ,56000 miles used Mobil one every oil change at only 2500 to 3000 miles , I have taken great care of all my vehicles all my life ! I'm 71 years old! My first short cut and diffidently my last ! I will just buy the right part from now on! Small pension and social security this mistake really set me back ! Just something to think about before doing !
Now I'm hoping the leak I saw was from one of these crimped fittings.
Yeah, I never understood why dealerships still charge OEM prices on parts for a vehicle 20+ years old🤔 Over time the car price falls yet they still want the same amount of money for X part as they did when the car was brand-new.
You are so nice! Hay ive had this quick fix on my 97 chevy k1500 for bout 3yrs now. Until today I just ordered the line. Fixing tomorrow. Thanks Teresa
Good back-yard fix; however I would strongly suggest you use high pressure hose clamps like the type that are for fuel injection lines. While the regular hose clamps you have will work, they can fail with the hose pressure constantly fluctuating, especially on higher loads, such as towing. I've had several blow completely off when towing a heavy load.
A fuel injection type clamp and QUALITY high-pressure hose cost a bit more but they are far less likely to fail. Living out here in the boonies, I keep a variety of sizes in my tool box for this reason. They are useful for all sorts of fixes.
Just my 2-cents and thanks for the video!
Do you happen to have a link to the clamps you recommend?
thanks for the tip billbob!
I definitely agree. The market is flooded with sub par clamps, so be careful what you’re using. Wouldn’t wanna turn a quick back yard fix into a backyard lawn ornament/ HOA citation etc.
I would add that you can also use ear type clamps if you have the tool to install them...just my two cents
@@rikityrik Those cheap worm screw hose clamps are almost unusable. And they filet the rubber hose open if you apply too much pressure. Fuel injection clamps are the only way to roll!! Worth the $$
Dude! We definitely owe you a beer! Thanks for the video! I hope you are employed as an instructor somewhere as you are excellent!! Best of luck!
Awesome video! Brings back memories from the 90’s Auto Repair shops.
I wouldn’t use silicone on the connection and used to do this all the time and what I learned is if you use something smooth and larger than a hose to expand it and put it in boiling water for a few then it will slip on no problem
I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to split the crimp fitting on the heater core hose. I had do it still in the car and the Dremel is small enough to get in there easily.
This was greatly useful. While diagnosing my car's coolant leak, I discovered that my transmission cooling line was leaking something fierce. This fix should go a long way to helping solve this issue. Thanks!
Thanks for explaining this, I also did not know the original crimped clamps came apart like that. Saved MY ASS ABOUT 70 BUCKS, THANK YOU SIR.
You are very welcome! Thank you for your comment! Pleased to know it saved you some cash!!
Blessings and great info, my Explorer was just diagnosed with a leaking hose and they told me I need a new radiator, I do believe I just need a fitting and everything will be ok, Thank you much and God Bless
like your video . i was told to have one clamp one way. the other clamp the other way to off set the pressure.
Wow that's awesome here I am trying to figure out how to make those ferrel/nurled/flared ends and you just showed me they are already there! thank you
Great video. Another option is to flare the end of the line slightly and force the hose over that flare.
Wow. Interesting. I didn’t know how those crimps worked. Good to know. Much appreciated
Thanks for the in-depth explanation, now I just have to try this on my 2011 Avalanche as one of mine is leaking. It looked like mine was leaking from the tiny pin hole on the fitting but after watching this video something tells me different. Looks like a simple reasonable fix, just have to find a good quality clamp to trust holding whatever pressure that line holds. Thanks again for taking us along, I'll be dealing with mine in the next couple days.
Hey, my hose is also leaking from this small rubber hole at the fitting, did you cut the metal fitting and put clamps or did you just clamp over the metal crimp fitting?
@supermancreations7588 I cut off the metal crip that way I could feed more hose onto the fitting and used two clamps that way I knew it was tight. Mine has been holding great.
@@mikebas7325 I have been reading comments and some guys say they did not cut the crimp, they clamped with it, I assume I should go for that and see if I saves cutting and stuff, if it doesn't then the last option is evident
@supermancreations7588 that would be an option, easier that's for sure. If you do have to cut you'll find it quite easy as well.
@@mikebas7325 Oh yeah, still better than buying new hose
Get a cup of hot water and dip the end of the hose in it for a minute or 2. It will soften right up and slide right on, then, as it cools, it will form to the shape of the pipe/flare that you are pushing it over.
It's reinforced *braided* hose, normally operating at 200+ºF. Not going to work.
@SerenoOunce then maybe a heat gun or as such to warm the rubber. A little goes a long way when your working in unheated garage in the Winter, Midwest.
How dem said you don't have any Sense
@@horacesamuels2052"dem ..😂😂😂😂 pretty pathetic
Great video. Depending on the vehicle I cannot imagine this is doable with the line still connected under the car, needs to be removed first to do this trick the right way.
I can’t believe that somebody hasn’t made a DYI at home crimp tool yet.
You got talent my brother wether black or white nuff respect i learn something from you. God bless you brother 🇯🇲
Excellent and concise. You describe putting it back in the same orientation ;how you can mark the hose and the hard line and match it up. You're explanations and attention to detail is top-notch thank you! I would let you work on my 1994 Cadillac DeVille V8 original Chevy engine ( not north star)😆car any day.
🚗
Should have the hose go all the way over flare then clamp before and after flare.
I just wanna thank you man. This was really helpful, saludos desde Mexico!!!
This also applies to all crimped fittings. Garden hoses, and air compressor lines. Stainless pex crimp rings work well if it will fit
Thanks!
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching!
Thank you so much I spent a lot of time thinking that metal piece could be taken off by a tool.
Theoretically, if you have a very small pry tool, or a very little flathead, you could un pry all the fixtures and slide it off, but it might still leak after you retighten it
i remember this video a few years back and i finally had to do my outlet side on my 96 grand cherokee jeep. glade this video was still posted man thanks a million for the tip. i did it before but with a side grinder very carfully. but now that i got a drimmel kit il use it sence im going to be in a tight spot on this one.
Great fix for my 97 ram Cummins truck. After replacing the leaking hose with a new factory quick connect one from napa....it started to leak again. After further inspection, it appears the metal line has worn a groove causing the o ring inside the quick connect to leak. On your method of fix for now..went down to napa and bought some 1/2 inch oil cooler hose and installed it just like you did making sure I went past the flange....no leaks yet. This may prove a better fix than replacing with quick connects. I'll have to replace metal cooler lines if I want the quick connect which will be a major PITA.
Worked great! -50 degrees Celsius and not a leak. Thanks!
It worked, clear generic silicone tape, on a leaking oil cooler line that has up to 65psi of hot oil in it. It was leaking 1 quart every 200 to 300 miles and now it's leaking none. 350 miles later of mountain, Interstate, and town driving. Used 2 hours of time (half was cleaning hose) and a $7 10' roll of silicone tape that I wanted to test. Took about 30" of clear tape to do one end of the hose while on the car. I prefer the clear as it allows me to see through it. I developed a technique to do it in tight space. Gave it 3 overlapping layers in a different pattern. Straight wrap, diagonal, then straight again. Any pattern works but important to have different seal points of different wrapping and do it as tight as you can, with space provided. Also important to squeeze and rub firmly on it to get each layer to fuse for 5 minutes or so before the next layer and the final layer. If it's higher than 65psi I would also place single double wrapped pieces directly over the leak, for extra strength material before the first layer of the 3 wraps. Or wrap it 4 times.
That's cool, what if the leak is somewhere in the aluminum part ? Is there a way to fix that as well ?
@JSingh100 the fix didn't last long. Probably bc I couldn't tape it very well while attached. The tape should repair anything it can wrap around.
Thank you for the vid. Awesome. Taught in automotive school and plumbing. Hose clamps should be opposite one another for strength and torque pull. Just FYI. Thanks again
Do you know if you can do the same with the motor oil cooling line?
Done it many times at my shop always use new hose and clamps smooth on the inside.
Thank you!! Great video. I used your technique on my motorhome oil cooling line and it worked like magic.
That's wonderful!
great simple video. thanks ben!
Works on a Return (low pressure) line... but not on the High Pressure side... nice fix if you are off-road or in the sticks.
Awesome video, thanks for all the detail!! 👍 you're the man..take care boss!!
(P.s. where i'm from in northern Canada it would cost me well over $800 for the whole cooler line assembly, jmp)
Thank you for this video! My 05 Caravan split a transmission hose and they are no longer available, even from a dealer. I used this method to cut off the rubber hose and clamp a new hose on.
My trans cooler line (crimp) is starting to leak. Did you do the work without removing line? Does a lot of oil come out and did you have to bleed air when finished? Thanks, Don
@@donsmith9081 I removed the lines. My line split while driving so I lost a lot of trans oil. I only had a little bit dribble out of the hoses. There's some pressure in those lines when the trans is operating so you really don't need to worry about bleeding. At least not with a DGC!
Thanks dude that was a big help you're a good teacher keep it up
Don't forget to mark orientation marks on the hose and metal tubes to that when reattached the hose doesn't have a twist in it !
I dip the end of a rubber hose I want to expand in boiling water for a moment.
I pump the gas 3 times in my 1986 buggy
Very good vidéo. Clarity max. No background distraction.
Great clip! Very smart, before seeing Your video I was wondering if those fittings could be fixed. Thank you!!!
I DO HAVE EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM , I will do the same. THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO ITS VERY HELPFUL
Good call, thanks for posting. Makes me wonder if throwing a stainless steel hose clamp over that failed crimp would stop the leak without removing it.
Thanks Dude!!! We definitely owe you a beer!!
Holy moly! That is super ingenious man. Great video thank you so much
I thought my transmission cooler lines were leaking but it turns out it’s the larger oil cooler lines. These lines are very difficult to change on a Chevrolet pick-up with four wheel drive. Think I’ll try your idea on them. Thanks for the video!
do you have a newer one? i saw on the gmt400 /480 platform shit is wedged in pretty good...i wish'd i had 4wd on my 98 serria slt until i had to work on it lol
Excellent idea I need to do this on my Impala thanks for the tip.
1). Use the system fluid as the lubricant to not contaminate.
2). Two hose clamps is over kill.
3). Using a ratchet on the hose clamps is over kill, Oz-lbs torquing is required (per industrial instructions). A nut driver would suffice for adeqtorq
Yep a better way to recycle, nice job. Thank you, you give me confidence in trying.
Just one little thing i would have done different, i would have put that first clamp on directly over the first flare and slightly beyond about 1/16", and not just up to the flare. Over the flare and 1'16" beyond, that way it crimps the hose on the opposite side of the flare truly preventing it from slipping off. So it would be putting the clamp up to the second flare, and clamping over the first flare crimping the hose between the first and second flares. That is in essence how they did it, that metal clamp crimped beyond the first flare in the grove between the flares.
Thank you for sharing this really help me to understand how to repair this hose .
You should use ear clamps, they won't loosen like worm clamps do and the ear clamps look a lot cleaner.
Pro tip just add a flare to the tip of line and ran a single hose clamp thats what we do at the factory if you have a brake line flaring kit
Essentially a poor man's tubing bead tool... Works "good enough" for those of us that can't deal with the $500 pricetag of the Parker tools and don't want to machine arbors for a pipe cutter Parker tool knockoff.
Thanks for the all the tips and explaination!
Even to this day gm continues to use shitty crimps on their oil cooler / trans lines . This problem has been happening since the 90's . Pure junk
Yep. Started on my 18 Tahoe. 23k miles. Soo pissed
And replacement lines are damned expensive.
Ac too my Chevy crude AC line is leaking
They need to put something on the chevys to fix. Cant make money having every part 100% reliable 😁
@@tyrantwatch9600 right because Toyota is on the verge of bankruptcy...... 🙄🤦♂️
at the start of the video I was like "pfft, Amateur hour..." then I watched it till the end... very cool little find, it's sad that they use those clamps, yes they fail more but... at least you can fix them on the side of the road with stuff from the hardware store
You can also use a hot gun to heat up the hose or a torch it'll help with the softening of the hose end
Sweet! Money saving practical hacks. Right on brother.
Great job. Much appreciated. I do all the work on My vehicles and although I’ve never had to do this I had heard from a friend this is what he did as well. You demonstrated it very well. So much so that I might go and fix my 17 yr old suburban which I can almost guarantee is wet at these interfaces. Not enough to be a major issue but enough to go in and fix. I might even get new hose at the same time! I bought a Glarks 80Pcs 7-21mm 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Stepless Hose Clamps with Pincers Kit which is a nice alternative to the hose clamp. Thanks again great job
Nice repair! Love it. Those lines are spendy...
200$
This was Awesome,, its My cup of tea, to repair prior to replace.
Thanks, might help me resolve my Holden Barina current transmission fluid leakage. Wasn't aware these High pressure joints leak, versus Hose clamps
Does anyone know if they sell a tool to re-crimp fitting? I have a very slight leak and logically this would be the easiest fix.
Curious if pex collars would work to crimp hose to the hard line.
Great tip on cheap fix of the cooler line fitting - Thx for showing how it's done.
Spraying brakes cleaner inside of the rubber hose will lubricate it so it will slide easier on the metal connector. Brakes cleaner evaporates quick and leaves no residue
Thanks for this video bro it really helping a lot of people
I already have a double flare tool for the end of the hose so I just make a double flare on the end which is way easier than trying to get the hose over that ridge.
The crimps on the main trans cooler lines for my 07 F150 are just beginning to leak. There is only 1 aftermarket option (Dorman) they have a known history of leaking crimps and poorly made quick connects, the dealer part is north of $200 because the lines are only sold as a pair. My solution is that i plan on eliminating the hose section altogether. I am going to cut off the quick connect section flare it and run new hard lines to the metering block and couple the new lines to the original quick connect section.
Great top, yes its always better to change it but if nothing ia available. O woild use a heat gun to make the hose pliable and aid to get it over that flare, it is a great idea really great idea thanks!!
Use an AC line hoseclamp that has a tang that will grip the ridge on the aliminum line.
what if you place screw-down clamps over the fitting to stop the leak?
Can't believe that tube wasn't barbed at all. I Recently fixed my power steering return line. The metal portion was rotten and had a pin hole leak. I wound up cutting the hose on both sides of the steel line and connected the two together with a brass barbed 90 elbow and used hose clamps. The vehicle won't be long for this world anyway. No leaks!
I installed a clamp to the power steering hose on my little brother's 1998 Chevy Prizm to stop a leak at the bottom of the power steering reservoir. All it cost was like a dollar lol. It's been holding up for more than 3 months now.
Very useful , I’ve got this problem
Could I use this idea to fix the power steeeing high pressure pipe leaking?
What you need here is a Ring stretcher used in jewelry shops. You slide the hose over it, pump the handle and the spreader expands . It is cone shaped so hose should slide down a few inches.
I watched other transmission videos and none of them show transmission lines inside the fender well or wherever they're running but I have not seen when my transmission lines run and I do have a leak in it though
Great show, very informative and now I'm down the road with no leaks. I used zip ties with the metal tabs (available @ home depot) instead of those cheap metal hose clamps.
Thank You!
That is excellent to hear and those ties work so much better. You're welcome!
@@bensielaffauto22 zipties?...i thought that was a joke ...link us to product please .
Great job this video was very helpful
İ saw that kinde of things on many Japanise cars like Leksus even , great job dude 🤘
Most of the time i install
Clamps oppsite ways
Locks in much better .
Just a suggestion
Thanks nice video
0:11 >>>> Music to my ears ..THANKS BUDDY .
Use German Fuel Injection clamps, Rotor Clip constant tension band clamps, or Oetiker ear clamps. Worm clamps don't have an inner band to keep the hose from extruding through the slots in the band. When enough of the hose extrudes through the clamp band the hose will loosen up on the hardline... it'll be leaking again in as few as 1,000 miles.
You should alternate the connection points on the clamps. That area has the greatest chance of leaking.
Two comments.
Worm clamps, like you are using, will shortly loosen up as the outer jacket of the cooler hose extrudes through the slots. I Use Fuel Injection hose clamps. They don't cost much more than the Ideal worm clamps. They can exert more force on the hose connections because they don't have holes or slots in the clamping band to extrude the hose through and relieve the pressure.
SAE J1019 oil cooler hose is the right stuff to use and it's not expensive. You can easily get quality Gates, Continental, etc SAE J1019 rated hose in the correct inside diameter at your local NAPA, O'Riley, etc. I would never re-use a hose in this application. Ozone, time, and heat degrades the rubber and cloth layers of the original hoses making them either too hard or too soft. Usually oil cooler hose gets hard. Inflexible is not a good property in a hose intended to flex when the engine and transmission moves in relation to the radiators.
If you google "hoses and clamps 67-72" one of the hits is a post I made on a chevy truck board about SAE hose types and clamps to use... I tried to make it short and sweet because it's a pretty dry topic but it ended up pretty long winded.
This type of hose clamp has sharp edges and can cut through the rubber pipe if you tighten too much. That’s why car manufacturers never use them. I would put a piece of rubber between the clamps and the hose, like maybe a piece of an old hose
This is the best video on fixing a leak on transmission cooling line, thank you!
Thank you so very much for the upload really needed that
nice job- good closeup video and good clean explanation
When replacing, will all the trans fluids leak out
I might have to do this shortly and this could save me a ton of money... dealer quote was really really expensive
Nice idea! Mine let go today en route to work. Used this method and worked nicely!
I discovered my transmission cooler hose has a small drip. I'm gonna use this method and replace the hose and add some wurm gear clamps.