4WD -4X4 - Encoder / Shift motor testing and R&R GMC / Chevy trucks and SUVs.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- The 4WD or Four-Wheel-Drive system in most trucks and SUVs sends some of the engine torque to the front wheels when needed. depending on the terrain and rodes conditions like snowy rainy/muddy the system can be full-time or part-time 4WD, the old 4WD systems useda manual locking wheel hubs and a floor shifter lever like the ones on manual transmission trucks or SUVs and the driver has to lock the front wheel hubs at each wheel by turning a dial to the lock or unlock position, in the new 4WD system it uses a control module/range selection switches / front axles locking actuator and an Encoder/shift motor, the driver has four ranges to choose from the 2high range normal roads conditions and only rear-wheel drive, the 4high range this is used on wet slippery roads/terrains only and engine torque is sent to the front wheels and the front axles actuator is locked if the 4high range was driven on dry roads it will damage the transfer case, the 4Llow range is only used in muddy snowy terrain or to get the truck unstuck in this range the transmission will not upshift to higher gears the truck should not be driven in this range on dry roads.
Thanks my man. The tool you made that was a great idea i going to use a transfer from the junk yard
Bro my Daully is doing that can u help me out asap
I can push in on my dash around the 4wd switch and they will come on but won’t shift. Strange
My is stuck in 4wd on 2016 escalade. Do you have any suggestions?
Fuxxxxing great video
Is it possible to trick the wiring to switch the motor if not getting a signal from the buttons? Also if that doesn’t work, can you just pull the motor off and manually switch the gears in transfer case?
Yes to both
You can remove the encoder motor to shift the transfer case manually, but doing that will not engage / disengage the front differential actuator. Also you need to be very careful with doing that for several reasons first being that it can easily pop out of gear and go into neutral when you least want it to. You can combat this from happening by clamping a vice grip to the shift stud and zip tying it down tightly to an encoder motor bolt. Be VERY careful with doing this as a vice grip can mash the splines on the "shift stud" and cause you serious problems when it comes time to replace your encoder... If the encoder motor is pooched then there is no way to "trick it" to work unless you get lucky. These things will do anything when they don't work right or may not even work at all.
I put switch/ and actuator and it’s still telling me service four-wheel-drive
Jesus christ, WELL MAYBE THAT WASNT YOUR PROBLEM
You have to get programmed or disconnect the battery
@@BradyIsom-kg1nslol
Very descriptive video. You did a great job explaining everything. Thank you for the content.
Mine is stuck in 4L and the buttons flash sometikes ans somtikes dokt come on it stsrted this today. And inwas in 4h driving around and everything worked. And it sll stopped and it wont button shift anymore . I only here the tccm clicking.
Would tbis. Cause no reverse reverse was working fine but 4x4 stuck in 4hi drove home 30 miles and t locjed up front tires then camr out of it but no reverse
Didn't have to pull drive shaft on my 2005 Tahoe. Bolt fit perfectly between u joint.
Thanks for the video. You provide very detailed and valuable information that is easy to understand. 👍
Thanks, i did exactly what you taught me in this video. 2006 sierra 1500 4x4 is working properly now. Need to test drive it more. Thanks again
Thank you.. Best explanation of function and wiring I've come across for the transfer case actuator. Excellent job.
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Where does the brown or tan wire original . Can’t get it to read at all.
Thank you this was very informative and just what I needed. Now I’m going to fix mine.
My truck when I start it is in 4low. I can switch it to 2h and drive it no issue but if I shut it off and go into a store when I come back out to start it again the truck I back in 4l. How am I supposed to troubleshoot this without wasting hundreds of dollars? Could it still be the actuator even though it moves?
My 94 has the 4hi and 4lo button and every time I go over a bump the 4lo light comes on and truck runs like absolute garbage but truck does not actually shift into 4lo being as I removed the t case motor to replace it I'm thinking the tccm is fried but not sure. Buttons also do not work unless I'm in over drive then the tccm clicks but still no shifting
I have a 263XHD transfer case with encoder motor off, can I plug it in if not bolted to transfer case and push the buttons to see what position the encoder motor is in. Someone removed it and not sure what position it was in when removed. Truck is in 2Hi now.
Why not, if it doesn't work your only out a little time
@@scottlofton2607I just read somewhere last night not to run shift motor if not attached to Transfer case
My motor is fine. Do you know how I can test the encoder ring.? Which has 3 tabs coming off it.
Hi i have colorado 3.5 l 5cil 2004 i have problem with the 4x4 .no code onli ican read service 4x4 .the positive is present in the actuator i need check in the motor transfer case
Best video on TH-cam about figuring out what wrong with 4x4 so instructional
Great video on how to not be a parts changer and actually finding the issue.
Great video, parts list for amazon would have been a plus!
i had a black wire broke and some else had a broken red check wiring first before buying new one
So you said the brown wire is ground all the time?
What kind of meter are you using
excellent video my new 07 hummer won't shift to 4low it's a always 4wheel drive since I don't offroad yet can I drive in 4 hi?
No, the 4WDH setting is not to be driven on dray roads only muddy and loose drirt roads if you drive it on dray roads in 4wh you may damage the tasfercase especially with sharp turns. If you truck is AWD you may not have a 2WDH setting if you do have 2WDH setting this neans the truck is 4WD not AWD than you cannot drive it in 4WDH .
great detail, just what I've been searching for, thank you very much!!
Very helpful what program or reader were you using at the beginning?
What voltage should be on the red and black wires? Mine are both reading a ground.
Great video. Any idea why a shorted motor didn't throw a code?
how can I check voltage of the connector using a regular multimeter? Where do I put the negative side of the meter?
Hello, on the case of the motor or on the battery negative cable.
@@thecarfixchannel3046 Appreciate the quick reply! Awesome video man, you definitely have a lot of knowledge and the way you elaborate makes it easy to understand.
I checked the green wire and it's reading 0.013 volts. What would this cause this? Control module?
Is the truck the same year as the one in the video 2005, if not do you have any 5.00 volts on any of the wires?
Make sure the ignition in the on position when checking the 5.00 v, if you don't have it at the motor you need to check it at the control module if sill the same check power and ground at control module if ok the module have issues, if the 5.00 v are present at the module then you have wiring issue from the module to the motor, good luck.
Great content! Amazing idea using the old gear to put transfer case in neutral..... where did you get the new encoder motor?
Amazon .
Great video and informative, only thing is you should change your description at part for 4Low from “should” to “shouldn’t” drive for long time or on roads. Someone might not understand and take off down the highway in 4Low and kaboom💥
Thanks for the correction, it was a typo.
@@thecarfixchannel3046 👍
wait what exactly is the circuit tester you used to test the orange wire? i cant find it anywhere!!
Power probe III.
If I was stuck in 4 low can I grab that pin with say a vice grip an turn it to get it back in 2 wheel jus to get goin ?
Yes. This is what a floor shift lever would do.
Ok, I've checked the ground and hot wire going to the actuator motor on passenger side front & at the TCCM. I've also turned the key to the on position to see if I can hear anything from them and there BOTH working. They Both turn on & then off. So, Now What??? The only thing i have not done is check the selector switch & the model under the dash, but if the TCCM & the Actuator motor is working, then doesn't that mean it's ok also?
Hello, are you testing the axle lock actuator or the encoder motor?
@@thecarfixchannel3046 I've tested both. My front diff. went out on me and i had to put a new one on it, so I went ahead and put a new Axle actuator & new Axle disconnect. I can switch in and out of 4wd by turning the 4wd switch to whatever I want it in and then turning the key on and off. I've tested to see if each part is getting power and ground and they all have both. Axle actuator, Transfer Case Control module, 4wd Switch and the Transfer case encoder motor. I don't have a scanner like yours. I'm using a basic ohm meter to test with, but when i test the Comms wire like you did, I can see the numbers changing when i crank the blazer. So, I'm assuming that the Module is communicating with the Encoder Motor. I don't know what else to check???
Do th have the setvice 4WD message on the instrument cluster and what are the issues you are having with the 4WD system ?
I installed a transfer case shift encoder motor in a 2007 suburban and now no start:(
Did you figure it out?
Ah ah ah ah ah ah ah
I got a 2000 silverado 1500 4x4 my 4wheel drive not working no lights on the switch at all so I replace the switch still nothing and I cleaned my grounds good do u know what it could be ?
Hello, did you check the power feeds to the switch / transfercase or ATC fuse and the 4WD fuse ?
@@thecarfixchannel3046 yes it all checked out good
If the fuses are ok the power feeds and grounds need to be checked at the switch / encoder motor /control module , a test light can be used if they check out you need to load test the power and ground if ok a transfercase control module has issues, since you replaced the switch the control module is most likely to be issue, also this might not tell you the condition of the rest of the system.
Thanks sir
You can pull that pin without cutting
Maybe you can but I did want to damage the pin since it does not come with the new motor .Thank you for you comment
It should come out easily. Use some Pb Blaster on it. But seriously it’s just a guide pin and can be optional. The shift shaft will only go on one way and there’s no play so it won’t be wrong. Some say the new encoder motors often have to be “timed” or “clocked” by opening them up and aligning the gears a particular way. Nice way to add more questions to the problem huh? Sorry. Deal is that you could put a good new motor in and it still not work because it’s trying to move too far or too little and leave shift fork in the wrong place.
what scanner youre using
When your testing wiring from the tccm to the encoder motor where are you grounding your multimeter
I used powerprope not multimeter the powerprope takes it's ground from the battery, if you are testing with a multimeter you need a good ground from the frame it the body.
Ahh I see. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for this system?
I bought a amazon one but it didn't work. Where did you get yours. Im prettysure the problem is the encoder i had a dtc code that said
motor a/b circuit malfuntion giving the code c0306 and a modeswitch circuit malfuntion b2725. I hooked it up too a tech 2 gm scanner and the buttons were working. When i installed the new motor the neutral light remained on but it would be unsuccessful at switching. I didn't hear any noises. I took it out and just pluged it in to see if it worked but nothing would happen so i concluded the new motor was alsi bad. Any tips?
Thanks im trying to to make my np246 lever actuated this gave me all the info i needed
Very very cool thank you sir
Great video. What kind of tester dude you use in the beginning of the video?
Hello and thank you for you're comment, it's an automotive scanner software PC or laptop called auto engeniwty.
@@thecarfixchannel3046 thanks for the response. How much would you charge to troubleshoot this same issue on another Silverado? And how far are you from East Tennessee?
Excellent information, description and video presentation…..highly informative. Unfortunately, all the constant vocal stammering is very distracting. But many thanks to the presentor for such a thorough job. Dr. K.
When you pulled the gear out of the new encoder motor and moved it, didn’t that change what position the encoder sensor was seeing? In o rig er words, the TCCM tells the motor what to do, but also the sensor tells the TCCM which position the motor is in. So if it’s supposed to be in neutral as delivered, and you more the gear to a different position, wouldn’t the sensor now think that what it thinks is neutral is now whatever position you out the gear in, say 2WDHi. So when you move the speed sensors on each output shaft and at the front wheels and rear axle will tell the TCCM that it’s NOT in neutral. And so on. From what I understand moving that gear the way you did is a no-no, and if you still had success please respond and let me know as that is very important. Another way to have done that would be to simply apply 12volts and let the motor turn to the position you needed to get it lined up or just turn the shaft on the transfer case.
The guide pin is not optional, because it was on the old motor and the new motor doesn't come with one. As I mentioned in the video the new encoder motor comes locked in neutral with a plastic lock that's why I had to move the transfer case shaft to the neutral and the transfer case position sensor is in the encoder motor hence why it was locked in neutral. The TCCM sends five volts to the transfer case position sensor and based on the position of the new encoder motor which was in neutral that's why I had to move the transfer case shaft to the neutral position for it to be installed. After installation the encoder motor the TTCM will show the transfer case in the neutral position and from the neutral position you can switch between the transfer case ranges with no issue. That's why it doesn't make sense to disassemble the new encoder motor not only does it waste time and potentially damage the encoder motor it also voids your warranty.
Thank you for you comment.
correct or not. oversight or whatever. that was a very good and helpful question with an open to error presnted suggestions from personal experience. not a hint of topper or ego.
the great info ij response not so much. info was there but all cut up with ego and emo. with a spring of snide thanks for your suggestion at the end. but video was so good that probably ahould embrace because of type person that great question came from. he watched it. liked it enough. to openly without any emo or ego ask. that's instead should have been indicator if your video being really good. more soo than most other common good job bs. was that a ji value loyal customer potentially you just sneezed on. best presented info i have seen and with added input
thanks guys. there is hope for us