Hard Joshua Tree Rock Climb Gets Second Ascent After 22 Years - The New Deal 5.14 - A Climbing Story
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- The New Deal in Joshua Tree National Park is the first rock climb graded 5.14a that was established by an American. Scott Cosgrove did the first ascent on Super Bowl Sunday January 31st, 1988 and he suggested the grade of 5.13d. It took 22 years for the New Deal to see a second ascent. Alan Moore repeated the New Deal in 2010 and suggested the grade of 5.14a. Now almost a decade has passed and the route has yet to be climbed successfully again.
The New Deal was one of the very first rappel bolted routes in Joshua Tree and marks the beginning of the sport climbing revolution in the California. This did not sit well with Stonemaster legend John Bachar who promptly chopped all the bolts on the route. Cosgrove offered to settle it over a parking lot fist fight but Bachar declined. John Bachar later apologized and gave Cozzy nice bolts to fix the route.
The New Deal was a visionary rock climb for its time and still stands as one of the hardest routes in Joshua Tree National Park today.
Subscribe to the channel: bit.ly/30CzxxF
I think you would like this: bit.ly/3hpyk3H
Follow me on Instagram: / giant__rock
About Giant Rock:
My goal is to entertain you with original rock climbing videos and maybe teach something along the way. Climbing history, first ascent adventures and obscure choss. Based out of Joshua Tree, California.
#rockclimbing #climbing #sportclimbing #firstascent #sportclimb #tradclimbing #joshuatree #thenewdeal #giantrock #climb #tradclimb #peopleareawesome #mountain #amazingpeople #mountains #climber #alanmoore #athlete #ascent #giantrock #colegibson #losangeles #joshuatreenationalpark
It's amazing how Scott was able to remember even the tiny details of each move on the route. Goes to show how much the climb stuck with him. Beautiful!
Beautiful film. Scott Cosgrove is a legend for his vision. RIP
Thank you, he is a legend for sure!
6:46 - "a first knuckle half digit sloper ... on an overhanging wall"
Now forever known to me as a 'cozzie'
haha I love it!
This is the kind of climbing video i want to watch.
This has to be one of the most beautiful climbing videos I've ever seen. You really captured something amazing.. It's been 20+ years since I've climbed at Joshua Tree but even I felt somehow interconnected with all this. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much!
There's so much potency in this film. Some power imbued into all of this, down into its depths, and the way this film was all done allows the viewer to access it and feel it. What a great thing you've all done here. To everyone involved, thank you :)
Thank you Tracy that means a lot!
My favorite climbing video ever. Outstanding videography and story board. Scott's narrative was so cool and informative. ...until the end. RIP Scott.
This was a terrific short film worthy of any international festival. The historical aspect and memorial to Scott Cosgrove were a wonderful touch.
Thanks Jason, I thought about going the festival route but then just decided F it I'm just gonna get it out there, glad you enjoyed it!
Scott was a friend. A Legend .. Forever missed.
This was magnificent! The line was beautiful,the repeat was impressive and the filming was perfect. I really enjoyed this!
Thank you very much!
Really a perfect capture of the allure of Joshua Tree - all through a very inspiring story.
Legend. Rest easy my friend you are not forgotten.
This film, your Giant Rock films are a revelation in climbing films. They tell a story. I’ve been touched by each one I’ve seen. You tell these stories that all climbers have experienced in some fashion. You make these stories and the awe of climbing available to laity. Thank you.
Thanks so much man that means a lot!
Awwww man! Thanks for this. Scott was a great climber but more a great person. Friendly, honest, and generous. 🙏
I was so blessed to get to meet and hang out with Coz before he passed and you are 100% correct, such a nice, cool dude!
Unemaginable that he was able to put up such a climb 23 years ago. Also sad to hear that he was gone so soon. RIP. He will be missed but his routes will be there 4ever, so everyone will remember him.
What an amazing story. So sad, but so beautiful. One of the best climbing short stories I have watched.
thx so much!
Rest in peace Scott. Great way to continue to remember him. Thanks for this.
Probably one of the best climbing films I've seen. The score was perfect. Well done.
Thank you so much.
awesome, i was living in yucca and climbed at the tree for about 5 years, the best climbing times wandering around bouldering in the endless possibilities!
What a beautiful and moving film. Thankyou for taking the time.
Brings back so many memories for me. I started climbing the Yosemite/JT areas in 1984 until 2007 when I left CA. Scott and Randy and John and Ron K, and so many many names. Thank you for this. Beautiful story and very well made.
Thank you and I'm glad to hear it brought back some good memories.
Beautiful story. SO much respect for the vision and execution. I'm humbled every time I go to JTree.
Thanks Vincent!
I teared up at the end. RIP Legend. I will one day try a route of yours to test my skillset, endurance, strength, mental game, everything. Man I’m so sad, and so inspired at the same time. RIP ❤️🤙🏾
Dang man... you will be remembered Scott
Fantastic narrative, great climbing, a touching tribute.
Thank you so much :)
This video have its magic, gave me chills, and the time seems to stood still at certain points in the film... great send, and RIP.
Thanks dude!
Great job. Loved the way you paid tribute to "Coz!"
Lovely. Such great content. Wonderful editing. Delightful music. Cozzy sounds so happy. A masterpiece.
thanks so much!
Alan's the man. RIP Coz.
i talked with him a few times about josh. he was very humble and cordial. Much respect
That was Awesome!!!!!!! Nice job Alan!!! Scott was a total badass.
RIP Scott. You were truly an inspiration.
That sucks that Scott passed. .Great route and tribute.
Fabulous. Besides the great climbing, I loved the generous spirit captured in the film.
Thank you very much!
Holding my breath during this. Wow
Great film and tribute to Scott
Thanks for putting this together, really enjoyed it 👍🏻
RIP Scott
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you so much for making this. What a beautiful film
Thank you too!
INcredible video and gut wrenching to hear that at the end, RIP Scott.
Top video, top route, big climbers.
Scott R.I.P
Thx so much!
Amazing work, Cole! Had me glued
RIP Scott! Incredible video
What a great piece of film. Thank you for the work and the upload.
Thank you too!
Beautiful Line. Beautiful Film.
what a fantastic film. beautiful and real.
thank you so much.
Great story! cheers from central Europe
This is an excellent climbing film. Thank you for this
Thank you too!
Giant Rock does it again, another classic
Phenomenal little film Cole! Really inspiring.
great watch & nice history lesson, thank you!!
Fantastic short film 👌👏
Much appreciated!
Amazing guy ,and a sad loss.
Great work cole ! !!!
Thanks dude!
That was beautiful. What a great video
Wow, that was great! Even the piano in the background. If possible, please give some details on the music. Thanks
Great film cole. Congrats
thank you Jonah!
Nice work on this. I really enjoyed it.
Much appreciated!
WOW! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent production friend 👌
Thanks ✌️
Simply amazing, true testament to the power of will. Maybe one day maybe
Great. Legends of rock.
This really epic! You guys did a great job!
Stunning
Great vid. Rough postscript. The climb is sick. “Overhung slab climb.” For guys that can do two finger tips pull-ups.
Great video
Dude, did he ACTUALLY SAY… ‘overhanging SLAB climbing’???? Makes my brain hurt! Love my JT memories! Never climbed this hard but it was 25yrs ago!
Coz!!! Good man.
Thank you!
Really enjoyed this
thanks bro!
Congrats, Alan!
Gran video, vía súper técnica
Gorgeous
Bravo!
Lovely route and sad ending.
this is so good
Thanks dude!
This is a masterpiece. Absolutely breathtaking. Amazing climb, amazing story, amazing production. I am blown away right now. RIP Coz
thanks man that means a lot!
Rip Scott 🙏
Amazing film, but why didn't you make the video full screen for Cosgrove!?
I'm surprised this is the first comment I've gotten about that and even more surprised no one has called out my messy ass desk! Mistakes were made lol
What is the name of the music playing at the beginning? I’ve noticed that it is the same music used at the end of the film “Life Coach” by The North Face.
Great film! Was the climbing filmed in 2010? I'm confused about the timeline - the footage looks fantastic for something that would have been filmed in 2010?
The film was shot in 2013. Canon 5D mkii for the win! Alan actually did the second ascent in 2010 and we shot the climb in pieces to re-create the send and showcase it in the best possible way.
Amazing short film. RIP. Route looks nails! There’s two great burly problems up north here in Castle Rock State Park he FAed, “Coz Mama Roof” and “Coz Daddy” that are both beautiful and tough. Would love to see a short film of our little sandstone home crag one day too a la your Stoney point doc. A lot of the same players were up here- coz, yabo, and some other legends like kauk and Sharma. Can’t wait to see what you make next, cheers!
Badass. Hard in JTree is HARD!
Shit belayer though. Short roped so much.
Bonechillingly Beautiful
Thanks dude!
00:06 that carabiner
First bolt looks back-clipped to me...
Great video. Whats the name of the first song?
Belonging by Muted 🙂
How can you list new deal as a test piece? It’s supposed to be an established route with an overwhelming agreement on the grade. Two people have done it in 30 years and they have 2 different grades. lol
eh you might be right.
Why were people so against rap bolting?
Bachar believed that bolting on rappel was cheating and was stealing from the next generation who would theoretically be good enough or ballsy enough to lead the climb from the ground. He came from the old school where climbing a route "ground up" was the only way. Bachar also did a bunch of first ascents "ground up" where he would place the first bolt like 40ft up a climb and then maybe no others. This effectively ruined that climb for eternity for anyone else not willing to risk their life.
Sport climbing with modern "rap bolting" began in Europe in the 80's. Prior to this American climbers were the top dogs. Once the Euros started sport climbing they quickly became stronger than American climbers and took over. The very fist International Climbing Competition was held in Snowbird, Utah during the mid to late 80's. French climbers took the top 4 spots and one of our strongest climbers, Ron Kauk, took 10th. This did not sit well with him or other top climbers and they began to see that bolting on rappel and sport climbing was the way of the future. They realized not only would this push the sport to higher numbers but it would also free up countless walls and blank faces that were simply unclimbable ground up.
This came to a head one day when Bachar saw Kauk's car in the parking lot for Cottage Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. He discovered that Kauk had rap bolted one of his "projects." A fight was about to ensue between them when Mark Chapman, a friend to both, got tired of Bachar's zealotry and swung on him. He hit Bachar in the neck and Bacher went to the ground and was taken to the hospital. Chapman was arrested and charged with assault. Bachar later dropped the charges. Remember these guys were on the younger side and were extremely passionate with very large ego's so common at the top of the climbing game.
In an ironic twist of fate John Bachar died in his 50's when he fell while free soling a 5.10 sport climb in Mammoth, CA.
Giant Rock thanks for the details, its nice to get some more context for these historical events.
@@DaudGonzalez My pleasure, I'm all about historical context.
Sad.
What is the chief end of man ?
Man's chief end is to glorify God and enjoy Him forever.
Life is but a breath…
Seek Christ Jesus the Redeemer
Psalm 39:4-13
Lord, make me to know mine end, and the measure of my days, what it is: that I may know how frail I am.
Behold, thou hast made my days as an handbreadth; and mine age is as nothing before thee: verily every man at his best state is altogether vanity. Selah.
Surely every man walketh in a vain shew: surely they are disquieted in vain: he heapeth up riches, and knoweth not who shall gather them.
And now, Lord, what wait I for? my hope is in thee.
Deliver me from all my transgressions: make me not the reproach of the foolish.
I was dumb, I opened not my mouth; because thou didst it.
Remove thy stroke away from me: I am consumed by the blow of thine hand.
When thou with rebukes dost correct man for iniquity, thou makest his beauty to consume away like a moth: surely every man is vanity. Selah.
Hear my prayer, O Lord, and give ear unto my cry; hold not thy peace at my tears: for I am a stranger with thee, and a sojourner, as all my fathers were.
O spare me, that I may recover strength, before I go hence, and be no more.
The climb doesn't count.
Aid climbing @ 11:26 (right foot).
He used the bolt as a footing/hold.
Start over.
😜
Great story, very well done video. A joy to watch ! I love the sentiment: "like getting to know an author by their books" :)
Thank you so much and I love that line too!
I’ve never understood the big deal between drilling bolts from hooks vs drilling them on rappel.
If you considered the issue before it had ever been done, you'd see the point. Climbing was simply done from the ground up. Try to imagine a time when sport climbing just didn't exist. Mountain climbing was the fundamental mindset.
This is great to see more of Scott's stuff his voice and impressions. This was a great production more power to ya. We need to see more of Scott Cosgove's routs and any footage that anyone has on him. God Rest His Soul we will not forget his contributions. He was an unsung climbing hero of the Stone Masters with out being in the movies. His stuff is going to be like Van Gogh . Lets get some more undiscovered Cosgrove material showing his grace. Its great to see the new generation climber having some class. Good Man.
I agree, I would love for more footage of Scott to come out of the woodwork. He was a bit of a lone wolf and he did not seek the media spotlight.
This is one of the best climbing videos I have ever watched. You pulled off a moving tribute video AND a pumpy send video. So very well done!
Thank you so much, I'm super happy with how it came together.
Absolutely amazing film. Exactly what I needed in these times to keep the psych up. Thanks so much Scott, I've never climbed any of your routes before; but this film inspires me to try them. RIP
Awesome route, splendid peoples! Peace from Ukraine, despite we have the War here.
Substantial. Coz was one of the leaders of the nomadic tribe in JTree/SoCal back in the '80s From cordless 3-mile 2000ft/eL, circuits--to waltzing up the hardest routes, it was an amazing crew!
Name of Song please
I need to know the name of the song in the beginnings
So Alan is like Coz. Really tall...and a sandbagger. Love this. This is amazing props to Alan for getting it done. Thanks for sharing this.
"Really tall" is subjective. Coz was 6'2. Alan is maybe 6'0.