Safety Checkout of a 858D Hot Air Rework Station
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2017
- I bought a cheap hot air rework station off eBay. It's a typical "858D" unit made popular by Atten, WEP, YOUYUE, ZENY, and a dozen other brands. However, the one I got is completely unbranded and I didn't trust its construction. Good thing I tore it apart!
This is the unit I purchased: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Just a quick tip on the actual hot air reworking: keep that hot air gun moving (e.g. in a circular pattern) and do not simply hold it in place over a component, because you will heat up the solder joints more effectively and evenly.
Just keeping it at one point will result in a bigger temperature gradient over said component, so the other side will take longer to reflow which might add some thermal strain to the component. Your goal is always: keep process time low.
Correct me if I'm wrong with the above or add your feedback, I'm always eager to learn sth. new.
Thanks for doing this, just ordered this unit, glad someone has already done something like this, makes me feel much better about the setup
The blower fan in mine quit working on the second use. Thanks for posting this video. I realized I had the motors here already so I was able to fix it in a few minutes.
Great vid good info and detail. just recently purchased one of these waiting on the delivery so will be giving it a good safety check first thanks.
Excellent video specially because you had the caution to open and examine the unit before using it ! Thank you for the “lessons” on safety that you so specifically and wisely explained as you previously planned and performed so clearly and professionally. This, your video should be used as a guide to all of us interested as electronic amateurs and students doing some electronic tasks (without spending so much money on top of the line equipment )with fairly reasonable priced equipment as long as the equipment fulfills all safety requirements and do it’s intended job.
Thanks for you video! I Am planning doing a reworking station by myself and this information has been helpful for me.
Thanks for the thorough walk through and inspection / fix of the unit. Bought a similar no branded one and will use this as a baseline to check it out too. Thumbs up.
Good "rework" of this rework station! Thanks!
I have one of these coming in. I am glad that I watched your video.
Thank you! This video let me do my own safety check on the device that I just got. Fortunately the ground was wired correctly, but there was paint between the chassis and the ground so the resistance was higher than should’ve been. I lifted up the transformer and scrape the paint away so that I got a much better connection.
Thank you for this video. I purchased an inexpensive Baku-601-D solder-pencil/hot-airgun station off ebay seller. (blue and yellow branding painted to confuse general buyers with more reliable Hakko products, I was knowingly being cheep). The hot-airgun looked identical to yours so I checked and they had fused the neutral AC instead of the hot AC line on my unit, too! My unit has the added benefit (NOT) that when the hot-airgun is on then any of my house lights using new LED technology plugged into the same house circuit flicker as the heat-gun switches the heater element on and off. I tried adding toroids on AC coming into the chassis, and on the primary AC leads to the transformer and the AC-noise/spikes are still going back into my house AC. I even tried using a large Belkin battery backup unit as noise suppressor and the AC-noise/spikes are passing through it and house lights are still flickering. I may need to get an isolation transformer (should have one on my bench anyway.)
I cannot thank you enough for this video. My 858D has all the same issues, of particular concern was the worn out mold that doesn't allow the fan to effectively move air. I'm certain this would have resulted in immediate failure.
I've just had the 858D delivered and first impression is what a great bit of kit. The air intake to the fan looks good, without any flash edges. It has some shielding in the holes, which are more than likely to quieten the air going in. Mine has what looks like HK as the brand. Looking forward to fixing the iPad mini FCP socket, which a local firm wanted a £100 to fit to a bare motherboard.
Hey thanks for sharing. I ordered one of these and am gonna keep an eye out for some of these things you've found on the unit.
Thanks for the video. Recently bought a ZENY branded one. Its read switch is glued on the handle and looks fine. The fuse connection is also correct. I followed your video to mod the air intake vent on the handle. Hope this will increase the air flow.
Hi - I just ordered one also, I hope mine is Zeny brand as well because I also have the Zeny 937D+ soldering station and it arrived in perfect condition with no wiring issues and works perfect - so I ordered my 858D hot air station from the same seller in California hoping (maybe) I would get the same quality of assembly, but I know thats just a hopeful shot in the dark-LOL After watching a few videos on these it looks like its possible the Zeny brand quality (might) be a notch better based on comments, at least im hoping so - lol
Glad I found this video. Thanks for making it. I'm going to buy one of these stations and I know that cheap stations have wiring irregularities.
Very nicely explained and reviewed.
I have baku bk858d+ is too much similar 4years by now.. Good machine.... Nice vídeo
Holy crap. That ''nice little vent'' is a great place for stray screws and things to find a home in
Yeah I agree. Looking back at it, that was a bad idea. I should of spent the time trimming the flash.
The mold flash issue applies to my new 959D too. These factories like their parent cultures have no concept of quality control even where it costs next to nothing to do it right so your video remains VERY helpful! I blew through the "vents" on one side and all were blocked by flash. They're not bad for disposable crap though and if one lasts for ten jobs it was worth it.
That’s a good safety check you have done on that unit I should do the same because I have exactly the same hot air unit thanks for sharing this video
Thanks for this! I just ordered a cheapo £28 858D and will use this video as a base to check that it's not going to kill me :D
Good checkout video, valuable info. I just ordered one of these for $31 & change and will definitely make a full inspection of the wiring. I have one of the Zeny 937D+ soldering stations and was surprised at how good it was inside, good grounds and correct wiring and works perfect, sure would be nice if my 858D comes the same way but im not taking it for granted. Just me but I thought it was a bit overboard removing the entire air grille, that molding flash could easily have been trimmed out with an exacto knife or similar, but who knows maybe youre getting better than average airflow without the grille-lol Id be concerned something would get into that squirrel cage and damage it, you'd have to buy a new gun assembly as theres no replacement blowers. But a new gun is only like $10 or less on ebay, just have to wire it in. Thanks for the good info, and thanks for not putting goofy annoying music in the backround like so many feel they have to. If im watching a tutorial or review I want to hear what the person is saying, music just distracts from the important content.
this is a great video man. i just bought the verison of this that has the heat gun and soldering iron (the yihua something. they all seem to be similar) and it wouldnt heat up enough. dodgy chinese online seller agreed to take it back but hes still 'looking it over to see if its not damaged' before sending me a replacement. dont know what he expects, since i already said it was faulty heh. this is a good video it shows me lots of things to check out. cheers
Great video 👍🏻
I'm your 323rd subscriber, your fortune is about to come :D
Just checked my new Sunsour 858D. Same power/fuse input problem only fuse is molded into the input block and it is not easily fixed. Will need to hardwire an inline fuse on the power side. Thanks for your review.
Very informative, thanks!
Hi Joseph. Really liked the video. I just got one of these off Amazon and checked mine out. It did have a regular computer power cord which I liked compared to permanently attached power cords. My polarity and grounds were good inside, however the actual power cord that came with the unit had the polarity reversed. Luckily power cords are easy to come by but does make you question the quality of these Chinese electronics.
I just received mine, and it has a couple of slightly different safety issues. It is branded "JCD 858D", and comes with a separate power cord. Issue 1: The power cord itself is incorrectly wired! What appears to be a standard power cord with a US mains plug on one end and an appliance-type plug on the other has live and neutral reversed inside. Unbelievable. This is a lesson in and of itself. Straight into the trash with that. The fuse holder is integrated into the power socket, so no mis-wiring there. Issue 2: The power switch on the front panel was wired into the neutral line instead of live. Since spade lugs are used to connect to the power socket, this was easily remedied. Those were the only issues I found, after following along with this video. (Thank you, @Joseph Auman!) Just FYI, the interior of my unit is different from the one in this video. The PCB is labeled "858D2" and is mostly SMD components. The transformer is much smaller and mounted on the PCB (presumably for the lower-voltage US market).
Excellent video. Just a mention, European plugs don't have a dedicated pin for live, since you can plug them either way and seems to be working fine even if the fuse and switch don't disconnect the live. But there are cases where you can get electrocuted from the neutral, not the same as from live, but still...I wouldn't touch any equipment that has not been properly disconnected from the power source.
Hi,
I like my Velleman's VTSS210 Hot Air Station completely. Very satisfied. 😊😉🖒
Good video review though.
I just picked up a 959D station, which looks to be an 858D with the addition of 3 preset buttons. I opened it up and it's fused correctly to the hot wire. And the circuit board has almost entirely SMD components whereas the 858D in the video seems mostly through hole construction. So it appears to be a nice little upgrade to the 858D and was only $50 on Amazon. I got the VivoHome branded one as the reviews on their stuff is usually decent.
I got a 959 (about 2021ish) and it was backwards! Just an FYI if anyone reads this.
I have Kada 858 D+, got it for 25$ second hand and have been using if for years, great for a hobbyist like me.
Edit: Mine has a soldering iron as well.
Thanks for helpful video on these cheap solder stations. 7 day warranty is probably meant for someone who buys this hot air station in some city/ town in China. Probably you can find thses in nearly every repair shop in China (as they repair lots of things instead of tossing them out).
Thanks for the video , what is the temperatur and air exact to remove smd component with this station (858D)?
Hi Joseph, many thanks for your video, I am just about to purchase one of these units, I will do the checks and make changes as necessary etc.
Just a couple of comments if I may, rather than alter the live/neutral wires why not cut off the mains plug and replace it? Also just to let you know, the mains wiring colours you found are used all over Europe, as I live in the UK, we often find moulded plugs from China rather dangerous, so I cut them off and replace them as a matter of course.
Very best regards from Ray in North Wales (UK).
Good advise! thanx a lot! :-)
The 858 seems to be sold under many brand names at various prices. The device is the same no matter which brand it is. All cheap Chinese stuff. As long as you are aware that the processor occasionally crashes and to watch for the fan freezing with the heater still running all is well for cheapy stuff.
Those vents on the handle should be open on one side only and decorative on the other.
Black and red is the old European wiring standard. Black as Neutral, Red for Live/Hot.
It made for much confusion. Many US arcade games imported to EU/UK ended up wired wrong with the black being made neutral in the Black/White colours instead of the white being neutral.
Just received mine. Looks like I should double check my fuse polarity and fix it if need be.
Edit: Min was mis-wired as well. It's fixed now. Thank you. I didn't need to ground the front and back panels on mine as they are plastic.
I am pretty sure the one he has also has a plastic back , the top curve is very rounded and the thickness says plastic, no idea why he wanted a ground wire on there , pointless
Good video.... The plug was wired correctly.
I have a ZENY branded unit that doesn't have the faults in this video - which is good!
Very Important
with these Chinese soldering stations (probably other electronics too) pay no attention to the wiring color codes, they don't.
But more importantly, You should Always Assume that Live & Neutral are reversed.
They do this in all of their products, it seems. At least enough of them that it is more common to see live & neutral on the wrong prong than on the correct ones.
think we have i IT (solated terra)terra type distribution.is it somthing we can doo to be safe with that type airguns?
Very helpful video!
I'm wondering about the 110v version. Is it just a 220v with a 110v plug and thus operating at a lower capacity?
Can the "110v version" be run at 220v?
Inside it has a 110v or 220v transformer according to version
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Soldering the ground wire onto the heating element shell is good?
I don't understand why go to the bother in making all these pcb boards and then leave wires loose like the reed switch??
Should there be a second reed switch placed in parallel opposite the current reed switch so if the heat gun is placed in 180 degrees in orientation that it will still trigger a correct result.
The S3… controller is a Zilog Z8 style machine. Some PDF‘s on the net even have „Zilog“ printed on.
I have recently moved to Thailand. When you talked about the standard that the live wire should be routed to the fuse, I remembered something I felt was odd in the house I live in. All houses wires is connected with the switches on neutral and not the live wire. So when you shut of the lamp, it still has full voltage up to the lamp. Ok, sinking can take more current, but still I believe this is not safe. A switch should make all devices free from live voltage. I plan to rewire everything in my house here. Maybe they thinking backwards in Asia? Because everything is backwards, your power cord will be correct in Asia with live going to the fuse?
Also ground here is wired to the neutral and I prefer the have a real ground. Not to mention, one fuse 63A for the whole house is standard here in Asia.
In the UK the brown does go to the fuse. Just letting you know.
Great video. I have one of this unit used it lightly, will follow your guidance. What are the safest steps to turn this unit off? Can i just turn off the unit on the spot or place the handle down and wait until it shuts it self off before turning off the switch ? Thank you so much.
1 - Return blower handle to it's 'holster' and Let the unit cool itself down while the fan is running.
2 - Once the fan stopped running, the device is at safe temperature.
3 - You may turn off the device by using the panel power switch.
Elements don't last long. Very thin wire. I will be winding my own and going over what you've presented. Mine popped also so am guessing it's the caps that you've shown. Thanks for guide.
You must have bought a true POS, one hung low unbranded, rework station. I just received mine from eBay, and it is in excellent condition.
How is a 60v cap near it's limit filtering a 30v line? Also, I just purchased a similar model YG858D. I took it apart and found no issues like you did. Ground was good, line-neutral was correct, fused, etc. Gun itself wasn't overmolded. Very odd yours was so bad.
Because after rectification the dc voltage is 30 x √2 = 42.4V
@@dimitris.damigos aint that RMS? 30v ac after rectification is 30v dc. although come to think of it the mains is specified in terms of rms. man i really wish they wouldnt use rms value for ac all the time
Good electronic designers will try to minimise failure rates. Sometimes this is stated as maximising the “Mean Time Between/before Failure” (MTBF). For capacitors a good rule of thumb is to use a capacitor with a voltage rating twice that of the maximum applied voltage, be that DC or the AC or transient peak value depending on the actual circuit. Of course one can use capacitors with rated voltages much closer to the applied voltage to save space/money but over time and if local temperatures are high (high temperatures increase the failure rates) the number of units that fail due to a failed capacitors will increase, leading the more costly customer returns under a guarantee. The manufacturer may work out for a given design the best balance of cost: a unit designed to be very reliable will have very few customer returns but will cost more to manufacture and in a price sensitive area, fewer units will sell.
Yeah I agree, I had a brain fart. Both should be well within their margins.
Okay! so where do I put my oscilloscope probes at?..
Did you check the continuity of the cable that came with yours. Mine is backwards. I also have a newer version so they may have covered up the issue by revising the cable. My board is all surface mount.
Mine came with a computer power cable instead of a permanent wire, but the power cable itself was wired backwards too.
Hi, I also bought an 858d. There are many versions with different problems. My 858d has the same red glue on the connectors. How can I remove the connector without damaging it? What kind of glue is it? Thanks for the very interesting video.
Hi Marco. I'm not sure what kind of glue it is, but it shouldn't be permanent. You could try scoring it around the seams to break it apart, bit usually just enough force should pull them apart without damage.
Mine comes with a ground jack on the back and cord with one end fitting the jack and the other an alligator clip. Where do I plug that in? I'm not supposed to clip the alligator clip inside the ground hole on an outlet am I? EDIT: Oh I can just connect it to the chassis, right?
This seems a bit much for a newbie, would they not be just better off spending a bit more to get one that could be reliably said is all connected up properly and safely?
Do all the 858 have this issieu?
Hi
Can tou do the same check with Yaxun 878D+?
Thanks
That's the European Colour Standard: Blue is neutral, and brown is phase (live).
My son bought one and it worked for awhile. Then one day he set it on the cradle as he always did and it wouldn't shut off. Instead it went RED hot. He turned the setpoint down but still didn't work. He pulled the plug out of the wall. He later gave it to me to see if I could find out what went wrong. I started it up set to 200C. It worked fine. It told him and he said to run it at 400C for 20 minutes. I set it at 400C and after about 2 minutes it started to glow RED hot. I had an ammeter on the hot wire running it and a plug in Kill-a-Watt meter. I noticed the kill-a-watt meter showed 6amps but the Fluke ammeter showed zero. For a few seconds I thought there was something wrong with the meters but then realized it was running very hot, almost yellow and no current in the neutral but through the ground. I then immediately unplugged it. After it was unplugged a few seconds it burst into flames. I was madly trying to blow out the fire as I was running out of my basement to get it outside. I got the fire out. The flames were only 2 to 3 inches high. I took the unit apart and found that the element shorted through the mica insulation wrap and shorted to the grounded case. It must have been still going through part of the element as the current was not above 6 amps which was the fuse rating. This was made really bad by the design on the triac control being on the neutral side instead of the hot side of the circuit. If it was on the hot side the element could still short to ground but turning down the setpoint would control the power going to the shorted element. Another thing I noticed is that they never had any thermal fuse protection devices. Those types of fuses should be put right in beside the element, and if the temperature gets above their setting they open the circuit directly. They have ratings of at least 6 amps and I have seen 15amp ones. As some else has suggested. Power the station through a GFCI breaker, which I do now.
Obviously it is not CSA or UL approved.
Wow good point, I didn't check to see which side my triac was on.
8:50 those are IEC colors, you find them in appliance cables in pretty much every country. They're only used in walls in Europe, but if you open up any computer power cable with an IEC C13 plug on the end you will likely find blue, brown, green/yellow. Not unusual at all.
And brown is live, so the wiring issue is in the plug.
Soldering required proper tools. The cheapest hot air gun i would recommend is the Quick 861DW around 300$ usd. Using this type of tool requires some knowledge about reflow soldering. Do not use a heat gun.
I would have replaced the noncomplying power cord with a new one so the wire colours are still correct.
how does that work for 220volt system in norway?the main plug here can be plugged both ways in the 220volt wall outlet.so no point to do what you are doing for security or do i get somthing wrong
The listing when I bought mine on Ebay had a drop down menu that let you choose 110 or 220.
For your own safety mark the plug with white paint on the neutral side.
I had 858d with sugon brand, last day im still using it, but this morning it won't turn on even the lcd display won't turn on, what should i check for this problem
Did you check the fuse ? 🤔
I think that you will find that there isn't 120V inside the heating element... I know that there is a traditional transformer inside the base station which steps down the voltage... I have not yet measured mine which I just purchased a few weeks ago... I paid AU$18 for mine and it's branded as a Hakko.. Also from eBay.
Peter Milanovski if you trace it out, you'll find the transformer only powers the circuit and the fan. Full AC goes right to the heating element on these.
A 700W transformer will not possibly fit in the station case ;)
Peter Milanovski Wow, AU$18 (US$13.30)!!! That’s an amazing deal. Congrats!
Thank you That's what's been on my mind also I have an 8 pin version of this and was looking at 24V soldering handles for Hakko, Stati and started a discussion if I could use them M wrong question was can I apply 120V to a 24V handle
i bought one and wait how it looks. it has connector for mains and handle though
yeah, you have to do all the qa on your own. i got cheapest 48v poe injector off ebay. after i took it apart, it did have safety capacitors for emi, even had proper chokes on input. even transformer looked promising. well, it did ground the output directly so in case of short it's good and bad. it does trip the fuse, but poe devices should ideally be isolated at both ends, especially if it has more connections at the other end. reason being that ethernet is isolated and if it crosses mains or different ground potentional, no danger if no other connection
so yeah, nothing says noname means bad. it just needs engineer to be present. for general public, that's quite bad
Mine started to smoke the first time I tried it.. It's binned
Sir, the trnsformer of my 858d is complaint,please tell the out put of the transformer
You must be dreaming all along. He stated loud and clear, 10V and 30V ac secondary output. Primary would be 120 or 220/230V to suit your local power supply.
I think those Hot Air Guns are 1800W
Why would you need to ground the back case? I thought it was plastic?
On mine it's metal, and just grounding it out of paranoia.
I disassemble most of the equipment I get from China unless it is backed by a reputable company. Almost every unit has some quality issues including lacking or malfunctioning critical safeties.
Typically this means filling in components omitted by the manufacturers (most supplies have omitted filtering and protection), fixing shoddy soldering work, protecting exposed wires, fixing wiring problems, etc.
I have already tossed some things in the garbage bin after I looked inside and said to myself, "NOPE".
please tell me a microcontroller number that is used to thisa SMD
The ones that Arduino use are called atMega.
There is an Error on Display H--E ! Can you Guide me Thankful
Hi i have the same problem if you find out what te problem is couldt you please send me a message please thank you
Meanwhile in EU you can plug it any direction. I just learned, that American plugs are superior :)
There has got to be at least one Chinese dude in China that can prevent the horrible Chinglish that occurs in these manuals. I mean this has got to be possible.
If only... I work as a translator from English to my native language, and any "English" manuals coming from china are such a pain to interpret correctly :s
Well the higher end chinese/taiwanese brands do a much better job. But brits and americans seem to feel that its beneath them to pay quality money for a quality product made by anybody in Asia, so you guys get the street market products and all that goes with it.
@@jaybrewster2475 yeah but then you might as well just buy outside of china. they'll find any way to cheap out on ya
Could I use the 220V model at 230V?
Yeah that will work fine. The wall voltage can vary quite a bit and it should handle it.
Joseph Auman Thanks for the quick reply. I am thinking of getting the Yihua 959D as it looks better and it is branded. Although I'm not sure if it's worth the extra 20€.
But if its AC the neutral and fase is switching every...
DuBMicX Nope, actually the neutral and the protective earth (ground) are connected together somewhere in your house wiring (most likely in your main fuseboard) so the neutral is actually at zero volt potential.
Also the insulating paper is so thin and I'll replace that with some decent fibreglass tape over the element. So hopefully will end up with indestructable and irrepressible monkey magic style equipment
Hello
Having to worry about whether the product you buy might electrocute you is totally unacceptable. Who's in charge of making sure people don't sell dangerous products? they don't seem to be doing a very good job.
Just wanted to let you know they still do it do this day, gotta love China's manufacturing 🙃
Read my extensive test of the 858D hot air station:
chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/858d-hot-air-station-tested.html
Buys 30$ rework station, spends 10 hours and 30 bucks fixing the problems. Assuming you would get 10$ per hour, you could go with the Hakko in first place :) ENGINEERING DONE RIGHT BRO :D
Who works for 10$ an hour? Oh wait. Americans do. Anyway, how did he spend 30$ on the repair? I saw some sticky tape and two inches of wire being used. That's like 50 cents.
If OP enjoyed the repair and enjoyed sharing his knowledge and moreover if people who watched the video enjoyed the same benefits.
Then there was no cost at all and the profit was priceless.
You prove the old saying "work will fill in the time allotted for it" . Dude... the output of this thing is AIR. Your ocd? obsession about grounding etc is all a waste of time. I give you credit for catching the plugged up air intake holes though. The biggest danger of this unit is if left on, when the magnetic reed switch in the handle is all that is keeping it off, then all it takes to burn the place down is something snagging on the wire or nudging the handle from the holster, then it blows away wherever it lands with flame producing temperatures. Scary. (Glade I woke up!)
I think those Hot Air Guns are 1800W
Very Important
with these Chinese soldering stations (probably other electronics too) pay no attention to the wiring color codes, they don't.
But more importantly, You should Always Assume that Live & Neutral are reversed.
They do this in all of their products, it seems. At least enough of them that it is more common to see live & neutral on the wrong prong than on the correct ones.
I think those Hot Air Guns are 1800W
Very Important
with these Chinese soldering stations (probably other electronics too) pay no attention to the wiring color codes, they don't.
But more importantly, You should Always Assume that Live & Neutral are reversed.
They do this in all of their products, it seems. At least enough of them that it is more common to see live & neutral on the wrong prong than on the correct ones.