#06 "We Put the 'K' in Kwality" - 858D Hot Air Rework Station Safety Mods
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2017
- TOOL TALK #1 - Not so retro, but relevant. A look at a few safety mods to the popular 858D hot air rework station, especially for the North American plug variant. I don't want to die from electrocution; I want to fix Commodore stuff, so safety first!
► Flickr Album (My 858D Safety Mods): goo.gl/wF4XEb
► bwack's TH-cam Channel (858D+ Series): goo.gl/7eEakY
► Dave McAnulty's 858D Safety Issues Video: • Making the Yihua 858D ...
► Electrical Wiring in North America: goo.gl/hL2Xtv
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#MindFlareRetro #858D #Review - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thank you for the video. Just got my 858D hot air station and disassembled it to check. Surprisingly every point in your video was already addressed in my unit. There was no issue with ground or fuse placement. Great deal considering how inexpensive these units are!
Oh, that is good to hear. I suppose they have cleaned up their act a bit and made them safer during the manufacturing process. The fixes would be so easy for them to implement. Thanks for your comment; I appreciate the feedback.
Yes, they have stopped trying to electrocute us, by ignorance!
Jun you have a link for yours ?
Thanks for the shoutout, and the professional looking video about these units and their little gotchas. I'll be linking it from my old one :)
Hey Dave. Thanks very much for your positive feedback and for linking to my video. It's always people like yourself that inspire me.
I have the CO-Z 858D, just unboxed it but glad I watched this! I will check it out before I use it. Thank you!
Thanks for this informative video! It inspired me to open up my 858D to make sure everything is safe. My 858D is North American 110V as well but is branded “Newacalox”. It has some notable differences...both the air gun wand and the power cord are detachable. The fuse is inside an accessible box directly below the power socket in the back. After I took off the chassis cover and checked the wiring with my multimeter, I was relieved to find everything was proper and safe. Tip of air gun was thankfully grounded...there is a grounding wire from the front panel PCB to the chassis bottom...the same setup you implemented in the video. However, there was a minor issue. The grounding wires all had crimp type loop connectors but were soldered instead. Using my electricians tool, I compressed the connector around the solder joint. The grounding wires now have a tight mechanical as well as a welded connection. It seems some branded 858Ds may have better construction...I guess YMMV.
Hi. Thanks for watching and for your kind words. Yeah, it looks like mine was a real safety lemon. Nice work on double-checking everything on your device - safety first. It is good to hear that more and more people are receiving more reliably-built units. Thanks very much for the feedback.
Never solder a ground connection. Always use crimped connectors. Solder can melt in case of a fault, the crimped connection doesn't.
You are absolutely correct, sir. I used what I had on hand for this video. Also, I am not confident the gauge of the wire is suitable, either. Thanks for your comment.
MindFlareRetro No troubles, it just came to my mind as I saw it.
It's not bad in this case because of low current. Just keep it in mind for upcoming projects.
Will do. Thanks again.
In Germany it is not allowed to solder mains connections or other "high current/voltage" connections. Exceptions are machine-soldered connections like inside VFDs.
Thanks a lot for this summary!
Being me, I have one thing that I don't really like: Soldered earth connections.
I don't know, whether US or Canadian regulations contain any secton on this, but I found that soldered connections often break due to thermal expansion or vibration.
Thus, I prefer crimped lugs for those rather vital connections, plus tooth washers for proper conductance.
That is a very good point. Off hand, I am not aware of a North American regulation regarding this; I am sure there is. I found an interesting discussion in an EEVblog Forum thread, goo.gl/z71oLc.
I did clean-up (sand off the oxidation) and re-solder that factory-soldered ground connection that had broken off (hmm, that seems to reinforce your point) but I did loop it through the metal eyelet connector and twisted it together before re-soldering. I used the same technique for the short ground wire I made. Although, in hindsight, I should have used a more appropriate gauge of wire -- mine is too thin.
Regardless, your crimp vs. solder suggestion is definitely good practice, that is for sure. Thanks for your valued input.
Thank you for the helpful video. 858D is a must have for any electronics hobbyist (as professional hot air stations are too expensive), so it's great to make it more safe and reliable tool.
Thanks very much. Yes, although I had a few issues with my 858D, it has been serving me well ever since I made the fixes. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I plan on getting one of these. Thanks for the video, i'll be sure to inspect/fix my unit.
Overall, they are great little units for the price. Yes, be sure to give it a quick inspection before using it. Thanks for commenting.
Very good video, very well explained, since watching a few vids from eev I now take everything apart when it arrives and check it, must add one of these to my arsenal and follow your safety measures, one additional thing I do personally is add a dab of hot glue to any wire connections for added fixing strength and if they ever need removing just add some IPA and the stuff comes clean off.
I missed this comment the other day. Yes, the hot glue is a good tip. I need to start a notebook of good electronics lab tips.
Nice job on the video and the added safety! I still don't have one of these but I'm planning to get one some time and your video will be very helpful. We don't have forced polarity on our Euro plugs here so it's a matter of luck if the neutral or hot is fused in most electronics. ;)
Thanks. As I mentioned to Greisis Workbench below, I'm not really clear if the fuse placement if really that critical -- hard to find a definitive answer.
How's your cartridge video coming along? I'm more than curious to see what adventures you had with the Simple64Cart after bwack's fun with it.
All uk plugs have the fuse on the live side of the plug and as a rule I would always fuse ac on the live side and dc on the plus side
Jan Beta It doesnt matter if the fuse is on the hot or neutral side xd
I don't think it is required in Europea that mains equiipment needs to have the fuse on the live side. Most of the European countires use symmetric plugs, you can plug them in two ways, so there is no telling which wire will be live and which one will be neutral.
Your 858D rework station is now much safer! It's important to put the K in quality :) I mean Q :) Shocked to see the broken fuseholder ! Great stuff ! Sorry for pulling you off the retro-track, bad influence I suppose :D
No apology necessary. I think I'll start making 'Tool Talk' videos now and again; a great addition to the channel.
Hi. A new viewer of this video, leohobb leohobb, asked if there are any safety mods necessary for 858D hot air rework stations used in Scandinavian countries since the plug can be connected to mains socket either way around. Could I trouble you for some insight into this question, as I do not know, myself?
Great video!! Need to get around to doing these mods to mine =D
Yes. I suspect it's more of a random issue with the North American plug versions. Although, some of the parts are super poor quality - that fuse holder practically fell apart in my hand when I twisted it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good Video! Thanks for sharing these very useful things!
Thank you. I am glad you enjoyed it.
@@MindFlareRetro Bought one for 22,50€ including Shipping. I'll report what's in my Mysterybox ;-)
Thanks for the video and the Info.The video was very helpful.I have one on order. Thanks
Thank you for your efforts!
Thanks Thomas! I hope you found the video to be useful.
You're welcome. Good luck. Although, if yours was purchased recently, then you are probably okay. It seems that only the early models had the issues that mine did. Thanks for commenting.
That's right I purchased one yesterday and today after watching your video I looked the inner circuit and they solved your first two points, It still have a crappy fuse holder hahahaha
@@guilleolmos3195 Oh, wow. Glad the video helped.
Thanks for the info!
You're welcome! I hope it helped.
@@MindFlareRetro :-)
Ill have to check mine now!! Thanks
Waiting to see if you checked still
Hey probably late for this, but just FYI, in Europe we don't have polarity on devices, that don't have safety ground connection (just neutral), but we have polarity in devices that do have such a connection, but in general, every outlet in europe should according to the standards have Live on left, neutral on the right and in case of the ground, on the top. But we allow devices that have just live and neutral, and our outlets allow them to be flipped in either direction, so in this case it doesn't matter, either way in EU plugs the orientation would be right, since we have live on the left :)
Yes, it certainly sounds like the European standard makes things easier. I appreciate the comment and the lesson -- thanks for sharing. 👍
UK has ground at top, Live on right and neutral on left. All approved UK mains sockets in UK are 3-pin. Ungrounded (double insulated) appliances leave the earth pin unconnected.
High quality informative well thought out and put together video greatly appreciated just waiting on my 858D clone to arrive will be safety checking it.Please continue to churn>
Thanks very much for the kind words-much appreciated. I'm always happy to hear that my videos are useful to people. Good luck with your 858D when you get it.
N.B. your clone 858D may NOT have the cut-off reed switch Dave shows in his eev Blog. My unbadged 858D doesn't. But the fuse holder WAS wired back-to-front which could have been shocking when removing a non-broken fuse! Neither is the chrome nozzle grounded in any way - which is probably a Good Thing
Having just turned my clone 858D on for the first time, I powered it up through my pair of Variacs (Ohmite) with the out put at 220v - which is what this clone 858D says it's rated for. One interesting thing: although I said earlier that it does NOT have a reed switch, there's certainly something in that handle reacting to it being placed in its cradle - so I guess I just didn't see it. And, as I said, the chrome nozzle IS at GND potential.
Now I can get on with my problem of solving, through reflow of the several boards in a Denon - AVR - 1912, the missing 'L' audio channel. The 'R' audio channel is OK at the SPKR terminals. Am feeding two different Audio tones into VAUX IN.
Dave (EEVblog) tears down an 858D and identifies the reed switch if that is any help, th-cam.com/video/vva2t21sOAs/w-d-xo.htmlm14s.
Another safety precaution is to put fuses in both the live wires of the hot air instead of one and must have leakage detection automatic in the central electric box of the house.
Ah, yes. That's a great idea. Thanks for commenting.
Nice video! Mine (220v bought off Amazon UK August 2018) was completely different than yours on the inside.
- Power connector, a standard kettle lead power socket, fuse tray built into this. Connector is pretty decent looking quality wise but held onto the case using hot glue. Fuse was some clear bodied one so no idea of rating or anything. Live and netural wired as expected.
- Earthing - Mine was the exact opposite of yours, my case was not earthed at all but the head of it was. Earth from the plug was connected to the mainboard which in turn had a wire connected to the head. Decent quality connections unlike the ones in yours, directly soldered to the board. I added a wire between earth and the transformer screw, but im not sure how much use it is as the case doesnt seem to be over conductive because of the paint (didn't make my MM beep)
The main board looked completely different too, odd that there is so many different ones floating around!
Hey Brian. Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, most of the feedback I have been getting shows that the factory(ies) making these things have improved the quality of the design and of the construction. Mine must be an early North American variant (purchased in May 2016) that has been improved upon greatly.
Depending on the PCB and MCU (i.e. MK1841D3) your device uses there are several temperature calibration hacks out there, as well. I am sure you have enough projects on the go but if you are interested, check out BWACK's YT video, th-cam.com/video/fcmuqZVv0uU/w-d-xo.html.
Thanks again for watching and for your comments.
Very nice video!
I also had(!) a 858D from Atten - The first time I switched it on, sparks and flames where coming out of the nozzle. Took a few seconds, but finally the circuit breaker of my power plug tripped (And yes, the fuse in the unit was still intact :-) ). I think they installed the wrong heater element in the factory or it was somehow shorted out.
The mods are a very good idea. Although I don't think that point 2 (Re-Wire Live though fuse) is really necessary (at leat here in Europe) - in the end it does not matter where you put the fuse (the circuit will still be interrupted).
When I took mine apart I noticed, that the case (Front panel, back panel and housing) where also made out of metal and where also not grounded which means if for example the live wire of the fuse holder snaps off and touches the back panel, then the back panel would be live and the RCD/FI would not trip. Maybe it would be a good idea to connect the metal parts of the case also to ground or I have seen some people file / sand away the paint where the parts of the case mate up so they are electrically connected to ground.
And keep up the good videos - I especially like the slow panning shots :-)
Hi. Thanks for your feedback. Wow! Flames! That would have made a fun video -- Big Clive style. Sounds similar to my solder sucker disaster, goo.gl/HNHHFg.
'Re-Wire Live though fuse' is always a debate here. It might just be the convention here to establish a common standard practice with "certified" appliances. There is an interesting discussion at goo.gl/zK3m7q if you are curious -- any references to "U.S." would apply to Canada as well.
I did sand away the paint from several ground connection points and as well the broken ground connector. I also threaded the ground wire through the metal ring connector, twisted the wire together and re-soldered the connection.
If nothing else, this device is likely safer than when I received it.
Thanks again. I'll continue to try and master the slow panning shots to keep things visually interesting. :-)
Changing the way the fuse holder is wired could be significant if anyone withdrew the fuse with the 858D still plugged in to the mains. The way it is now on withdrawing the fuse, if it is NOT broken, one can get a shock if the other end of the fuse touches the threaded opening. No?
Often, the heating element is still covered with some grease or oil out of manufacturing when mounted in these units. This goes for soldering irons as well. The first time you power it on, that grease will cause smoke (maybe even flames, though I never did see this with soldering irons... must be a hot air blower special :D). Once it has "burned off" the heating element, you won't have this. This is not a problem and is quite general in fact.
Although, don't let it burst into flames :D
@@michaelgamble296 Only if someone were stupid enough to remove the fuse with the unit plugged in.
I think, I have seen another issue with the grounding: usually, you should use a serrated lock washer for connecting PE to the case. I would put one below and one above the lug of the PE wire at the stud at the transformer. Probably using one at the pcb might help too.
Thanks, Sven. Yes, you are correct, of course. I will make these changes if I open this station again. Thanks.
6:00 LET'S GO!
I picked up a Yihua 858D from Amazon that arrived today, and because of your video and Dave McAnulty's video, I decided to open it up and inspect it first. I think they have updated a few things in the last few years, because when I checked with my multi-meter I found the hot wire was going to the fuse (the wire colors are now blue, brown, and yellow). Additionally the ground on the blower was soldered securely and the nut was tightly attached to an unpainted threaded post. I didn't feel the need to make any modifications at this time. Maybe they saw your video lol
Thanks for the feedback. I think you are correct, they have improved the quality greatly. I am glad to hear that yours is ship-shape. 👍
I have quick 850A from last 5 year's it was cost me around 1300 Inr(22 CAD) till today it's working like Butter till today no problem apart from heating coil replacement 1 time with regularly 3-4 hours of use. Some times cheap product comes with quality as wel.
Interesting. I have not seen the Quick 850A before. It looks like a solid build and clearly, it's a good design based on all the hours you use it. Thanks for sharing!
Hey thanks for the video. Question: could I plug my station into a GFCI adapter to protect against some of these issues?
Thanks for watching the video and your questions. Well, to be honest, I am not an electrical professional of any type so I cannot give advice when it comes to high voltage safety. As far as I understand GFCI outlets, they compare the current between the hot and neutral side and if there is any difference, even a slight difference, then it could mean there is current leakage, possibly through someone’s body, so the GCFI will quickly open the circuit - trips its internal breaker. So, I guess it’s safer to use a GFCI than not using one.
Some Interesting info to check out:
► safeelectricity.org/ground-fault-circuit-interrupters-gfcis/
► ElectroBOOM on TH-cam, ‘The Outlet that Saves Lives’: th-cam.com/video/GlM6PE2kKVY/w-d-xo.html
I’ve noticed in my Atten 858D+ that the ”switch” on the tip handle holder that is supposed to put the unit to sleep works very inconsistently, usually leaving the tip blowing up hot air. Hence I always turn it off from the mains switch when I’m not using it.
Hi Tero. Thanks for commenting. Hmm... interesting. There is a reed switch (magnetic sensor switch) in the handle as well as a magnet in the cradle (handle holder). Perhaps the reed switch is faulty or the magnet is not sitting properly in the cradle. Are you able to disassemble the handle to check the reed switch? Also, you can buy replacement handles (the whole handle assembly) for a reasonable price on eBay, ebay.to/35q0PeU. I hope this info helps.
Thanks for the info! I just watched eevblog’s video on a burned 898D. I think the reed switch in mine is just being extremely picky about the orientation of the handle. I’ve decided to play it safe and turn it on from the mains as it heats up fast enough when I need it.
Read my extensive test of the 858D hot air station:
chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/858d-hot-air-station-tested.html
Ack! I have the exact same unit I bought from Amazon. Sounds like I have some work to do to make it safer to use.
Yes, it is a wise move to take a peek inside to ensure that everything is A-Ok. However, the feedback I have received since posting this video is that newer models seem to be built better and don't have most of the issues that I had. Keep me posted. Thanks for commenting.
Funny - I just got one, sold as unbranded but the name plate shows what appears to say "HiYAKKO." At any rate, they do have a grounded tip, and the fuse holder looks a lot like the replacement one you bought, but it looks like the main plug is still wired backwards with the Live and Neutral switched up. I'll just replace the cable entirely with an end from a new computer, and wire it up properly (as suggested by WTF below).
Sadly, though, the board's a different revision, so I lack a socket for my main chip, so I'll have to desolder that before going for more extensive mods.
Hi. Thanks for commenting. "HiYAKKO" -- that's hilarious! The more feedback I get, the more I think that mine was a very early rev for the North American market. Interesting about the non-socketed chip - more cost reduction, I guess. I'm glad to hear you got yours into proper shape. Enjoy it! Thanks again for your feedback.
I believe that post 2 is unnecessary.This is because when in a mains circuit it does not matter which side the fuse is on. because a mains system uses AC(alternating current) and AC switches current direction 50-60 times a second. The fuse would have current flowing one way and 1/60 of a second later it would have current flowing the other way
It should not normally matter, but in combination with the ground issue, there could be a shock hazard. Say the hot wire going directly to the circuit board mounted to the faceplate were to short to the faceplate for whatever reason (maybe a blob of solder was in the case rolled around, hitting a pin on the circuit board while being stuck against the faceplate) and the fuse pops. Fuse did its job. Only bad thing is now the faceplate is energized, and because the plate wasn't grounded, the main circuit breaker will happily continue providing power to the station. Were you to start fiddling with the station because all of a sudden it stopped working and you touch the faceplate, you would be electrocuted.
There was another issue with the triac latching on so when you hang up the tool the reed switch goes to turn off the system but the only thing that turns off is the fan, the latched triac keeps the heating element on going ballistic melting the handle.
If you research this problem and find a solution to keep the triac from latching, can you send me a private message so I get an email
Oh. I was not aware of this triac issue -- interesting. Yes, I would like to know more. My email address can be found on the About page of my channel.
6:30 Same with my 959D. I think they are being confused by color code. Black is live in the USA, neutral in China. Red is live in China (following the old British standard).
To be on the safe side, the live should connect to the tip of the fuse, otherwise it would be possible to get a shock when changing the fuse if you happened to touch the exposed live inside the fuse holder, with the device plugged in.
That's a great point.Thanks for sharing. I might have to make that alteration if and when I find myself into the guts of my 858D again.
Seems mine is grounded to the tip. However my lights flicker when its plugged into the same outlet as it. Idk how I'd fix that. Could just be high power draw?
Well, the grounding seems correct. I think the 858D is rated at 700W, so could be took much on that plug circuit?
what to do about mains when the plug can be put i the wal outlet both ways 220-240volt in scandinavia?
Thanks for your question. I am not sure how to answer, as I am located in North America. However, I have asked bwack in the comments below if he can shed some light on this question, as he lives in Norway.
leohobb: Do you mean the wall plug can be plugged in either way? And that there is no GND. connection - just Pos. Neg.? If so you must check which terminal in the wall socket is Pos. and which is Neg. and plug in accordingly. Do mark the socket once this has been established - and mark the plug from the 858D as well. I assume you DO have A/C not D/C? Michael Studio1. UK
What fuse holder and fuse did you use? I recently purchased mine and it looks like the only problem is that the hot wire goes straight to the switch instead of the fuse (fuse is wired return like in the video).
Hi. I just used a standard 5x20mm panel mount fuse holder, amzn.to/3vwq49w. Intersting about yours -- from what I have been hearing from other people, the manufacturer(s) have sorted out all the wiring issues.
@@MindFlareRetro I might have got an old unit from the person I ordered from. The board still has markings from 2016 or 17 IIRC when I opened it.
@@K----- Ah, yes. That would make sense. Well, at least you have all the issues straightened out. I assume it's working well for you?
@@MindFlareRetro Yep. I routed the hot through the fuse and to the switch and soldered the returning wires that used to go through the fuse together. Tested grounding. Everything seems to be in good condition now. Ill probably put in a better fuse eventually.
Thanks for this GND connection advice! I also found in my acquired today unbranded 858D that there was no GND connection to the hot air tool. I am going to insert your GND jumper mod. The UK 13amp. plug is connected correctly - indeed the plug prongs are identified on the plug housing itself - so they daren't mis-connect it! (or dare they?)
Thanks for the positive feedback Michael. I'm glad you found the video to be useful. In retrospect, I used too thin of a gauge wire for my ground, but I wanted to use green for the video and that was all I had on hand. I believe 16 AWG would be more appropriate. Thanks again.
Currently I'm a little concerned that the 858D is 220v 50Hz. Voltage here in UK is (just measured) 247v @ 60Hz. Not sure whether I dare plug it in (after installing the GND mod, of course) or ought I to power it up through my Variac.
Hi Michael. According to ask.metafilter.com/76438/Can-I-use-a-220v-device-in-the-UK, UK mains voltage can be 230V +10%/−6%. When you see an appliance rated 220V but your mains at the plug is 240V (or 247V in your case), the latter is the voltage at the delivery point into your house wiring, the appliance voltage other is the minimum voltage that it is designed to use. All that said, I believe you will be fine plugging it in an using it. Also, to confirm, AC in UK (and the rest of Europe) works at a 50Hz frequency, where North America is 60Hz. Keep us posted how it goes.
Thanks for your studied reply. Sorry about the Hz. I lived in Vancouver BC for some time, worked at BC Tel (Wm.Farrell Bldg, 768 Seymour) and got so used to 60Hz. I forgot the UK was different. That's where the Variacs came from - I have a pair in series bought from L.A. Varah's - who probably no longer exist. This was 1963.
In the Workshop: Found that in this un-branded 858D
Hot Air Gun, unlike Dave's 'ATTEN' 858D there is NO reed switch. Neither is there any connection from the chromed metal blower tube in the gun back to the Control Unit. So it seems I will have to leave this part non-grounded. I wonder if there's any real need to GND this anyway. Comments??
Imagine this proper grounding and having no proper ground in power outlet. Or worse neutral wire being used as neutral and ground. This is how more than 70% of the world uses electrical power.
The proper mod would be to add transformer to insulate the mains altogether - safety for the equipment you are repairing, and RCD for your safety not ground.
About reversed wire well, in UK you can't reverse the plug socket, in europe you can. And that opens a whole can of worms. So replace the schuko F to schuko E socket so the reversing of the plug would be not possible.
How is this unit even for sale? Does UL or CSA certification mean nothing anymore?
Haha. Yeah, mine was pretty awful inside. Having said that, apparently, all of the "858D" hot air stations seem to be of much better quality from what I have seen and from the feedback others have given. After my fixes, it has been working like a champ for me even though I received it three years ago. I would still recommend it to any electronics hobbyist. Thanks for watching and thanks for your comments!
6:06 Bay City Rollers shout out?
Maybe, maybe not. 🤔 Although, I did record that video on a Saturday night. 😉
What the button does "Cal" ?
You can "calibrate" the temperature readout to make it more accurrate for your needs. The problem is, the blowing air temperature varies depending on blow speed, nozzle type and distance from the nozzle to PCBm, so calibration would be inconsistant at best.
Wow with the mods I guess it would be safe but yikes
thanks, my YiHua 858D is no longer a death-trap
Thanks for your feedback! I'm glad you found the video to be helpful.
Oh yeah.. Bay City Rollers.
😉
Uk plugs have fuses and ground wires
Yes, indeed. UK plugs are super well designed.
My hot air rework station is even cheaper. I think I paid $30 for it? It's just a handheld unit all self contained. The temperature readout goes up to 800 degrees! I don't think that's right in F or C so I have NO IDEA what it's registering but SMD components start to come off at about 700+ whatevers.
It's actually called the GONGJUE GJ-8018LCD Portable Temperature-Controlled (ha!) Hot Air Gun
I saw someone else's video where they took a temperature probe to the tip. (Duh! I have one of those. Should try it.)
The tip registers about 150 degrees cooler than the display on his unit. I'm guessing the thermistor inside is placed such that the airflow doesn't cool it down.
30 bucks?!? Man, that cheap. Oh yes, I think I know the one you're talking about. Any problems with that one? It works well?
@@MindFlareRetro it does the trick! Just weird difference between the temperature displayed and the output.
Hey atleast yours has a real transformer. Mine came completely empty.
Theres a tiiiiny switching transformer on the front panel pcb tho.
Oh, wow. Really. That's pretty crazy. Does it get up to 300ºC ok?
Poor grounding? That's B.A.D. Even I know that you have to properly ground electronics.
So the hot wire goes straight to the printed circuit board? Doesn't it have to be stepped down by the transformer to low voltage so that it doesn't fry every component on the board? (I'm still learning)
Yes, the grounding was pretty much non-existent. I can't remember the exact wiring issue. It's a bit of an oddball setup -- the transformer is for powering the heater element and blower fan, but the voltage required for the mainboard, itself, originates directly from mains and is rectified and regulated on the PCB.
It must be separate from the rest of the board, then.
I saw in one video where the polarity in the three wire cored itself was wired incorrectly, you even have to make sure the wires in the power cord itself have the right polairity-! Its no joke about lack of quality in Chinese electronics, they just dont care as long as it goes out the door. Anymore I look at any purchase of any electronics from China as if its in "kit form" and it has to be Q.C. checked before even plugging it in, pretty sad in this day and age and theyre still managing to kill american manufacturing jobs and dominate the marketplace due to slave labor prices. But theres a price to pay for everything, in this case the price is quality as well as safety.
Hey,you get what you pay for
Huh maybe someone can do an upgrade on stations like this higher quality transformer better quality caps and components firmware mods just general quality improvements
Actually, I remember @bwack modding his 858D a while back. Yes, here is one of the video in his series, th-cam.com/video/4BRD9KQHj60/w-d-xo.html.
in europe the the plug can be insetred either way , the only constant is the central pin which is always ground . so ground apart it souldnt make that much of a difference
I was sent an unfused plug on mine first time I’ve seen an unfused uk plug
Wow. Was this a while ago?
@@MindFlareRetro today lol
I'm in UK and I got a JCD 858D off eBay December 2019 and that was some dodgy 3 Flat Pins (Foreign) to UK 3 Pin adaptor (not fused) (possibly New Zealand/Australia and Kettle Lead was the (NZ /Aussie) 3 Pin so just trying to get my head around it. I've used the unit a couple of times but now looking at checking the connections (earth grounding) and use a PC / Kettle UK (Fused) lead. Would 3 Amp be best for these 858D do you think? It also says ESD SAFE on the cardboard box it came in haha Mine has built in Fuse also at the Power (PC/Kettle Lead) Socket so not seperate like in this video
@@PauloAndreasMusic that is odd didn’t think it would be legal but must be. I’ve just realised my soldering iron is also the same has no fuse. I’m using them still I’m not going to bother changing the plug’s because I’m plugged into an extension lead anyway just hope it’s the right fuse in that lol
Lucky i watch this video first before.Mine comes with no fuse holder at the back.
Thanks for watching. Yeah, I've heard of this too. I recommend getting a quality name brand fuse.
I think I misread your comment. You say your 858D is not fused at all? Perhaps there is a fuse holder with fuse inside the unit? I'm curious. Please let me know.
yes it actually does have one. My model was youyue with 858D06.PCB 2016.09.29 .
Very good. Did you have to make any other safety modifications?
i did not as i check they all have the proper grounding like your modification, not sure if i should go buy a new fuse though. So far so good as my led smd rework went good. I found people in eevblog updated the firmware stuff which is also a youyue model but it was a 2014 version. Another last thing is this thing comes with two prong power cable CEE7/7 plug which is specifically designed to work with both the German & French sockets. My wall socket is uk plug style so im using universal power adapter to connect it but then the ground will not be connected to the 240v wall mains earth. Do you have any comment on this?
can get it for 28 euros on aliexpress, may be even less
It looks like the price has dropped quite a bit now, and I believe the quality has improved greatly, as well, so it is a good time to purchase if you are in the market for one. Thanks for commenting.
I ordered one and will be safetymodding it. For me this is capable enough.
I can't believe how cheap these are, currently around £25 delivered UK...
Wow. That's really cheap now. I just checked and I paid CAD $60 (around £35) from Amazon -- they have several local distribution warehouses around the Toronto area now, so fast local shipping -- in May of 2016, and that was a great price at the time. I just ordered smaller diameter nozzles from China last week.
just found it for £22 inc delivery... makes me a bit dubious about buying it... might go for the £50 version of the exact same product to make me feel better :p
£22 on eBay? Could you post the link -- curious to see it.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-858D-SMD-Hot-Air-Soldering-Rework-Station-Solder-Stand-with-220V-Plug-/232362349124?hash=item3619e01244:g:UooAAOSw4CFY7zpc its not a one off there are several around this price and this is a uk vendor not china
but I am presuming this is from a uk warehouse run by one of the chinese distributors
For that price, I'd return the unit for a refund.
Yeah. I hear you. But they were easy enough fixes and it's been working like a champ ever since.
This video is hilarious to me because I have been using this thing for so many years, it's held up great. I always unplug after use though because I don't trust any of this cheap, chinese crap so maybe that's why. I never had to open it either. It was used for SMD rework no problem, I eventually purchased more name brand solutions, but came back to using this thing because it was so consistent, just a workhorse. The $30 I paid on eBay made me a lot more than I invested for sure. Thank you random chinese assembly line worker!
Small note, it's note "The imfamous 858D", it's "a cheap knockoff of the "Atten 858D".
The Atten brand makes this product with quite good quality. If you only look at the 858D and simply assume that it must be the same...well that's why knockoffs use that designation: to fool you.
There is nothing wrong with the Atten 858D, EEVdid a raving review on it.
Always check that you are buying brand products and not knockoffs, and stop refering to products by their numbers only, it's just dumb.
Yes, good point. It is a jungle of knock-offs out there. I am happy to report that this "W.E.P. 858D" has been working great since these fixes were made. Thanks for commenting.