hi i bought an atten ms 300 including st-862d and my user manual is in Chinese and your video is so useful for me, tnx a lot ❤️ but COL or holding handpiece button for cold air function not working for me? am i missing something?
Glad it helped. No if I hold the button for right at 2 seconds it switches to cold air mode. Never used it other than to try the function out. Mine is version U03. So I don't know. They might have done away with that function in later versions.
I've been very happy with it. The shortness of the hose hasn't been a problem. It just has to set close to the work area. It really is not much shorter than soldering iron lead. I would buy it again that's for sure.
Is that the ac filter mounted on the inner rear vertical panel inside the station's housing? It is to prevent feedback into the building's electrical system by the switching in the control of the temperature.
I was going to say something about your airflow at about the 16 minute mark, but it looks like you figured it out. If you just want to blow a board clean, then yeah, crank everything up and go to town. But, generally speaking, with hot air, you want to be as hot as you can be with very low airflow - especially when installing parts. My go-to setting for both installation and removal is 840°F and anywhere from 10% (lowest possible) to 15% airflow, depending on the surrounding components, ground/power planes, etc. Also: Whether removing or installing, always heat the part evenly from all sides. That way, you can avoid heat-stressing the parts and burning the PCB itself by overdoing dwell time. One last thing: I know it's hard to fight the temptation, but don't poke and pull at a part while you're heating it. (Just asking for lifted pads and ripped up traces that way.) If you do everything right, you should see it come loose on its own and start to float on the liquid solder, at which point you grab it or use a pick to flip it over or whatever. Still, though - if that's your first try, you did way better than I did my first time around. Good job!
@@ceejay_gaming9636 Just keep practicing. It took me a lot of tries to get it right. Working with hot air takes quite a bit of finesse and no small amount of patience. I'd also recommend any or all of: a magnifying headset, a strong magnifier, or even a stereo/binocular microscope.
I really don’t know. I couldn’t find a parts list. I know on the web page they listed the heater, stand and heat gun. But it was such a good price that even without the parts list, I order one. Been very happy with it. I do try not to kink the hose. It might be hard to find silicon tubing that size.
Over a minute a half nothing moves😂😂😂😂 400F is 204C. rolf. 240C is melting point for leadfree solder and around 350C is needed on hotair . why such people making videos where they dont know the basics..
There is a good "comedian" in Russia, his surname is Zadornov. So - about the "Americans" he says this: "Well, STUPID!" and that's a fact. Watching the review, HALF of which is stupidly WANDERING IN THE SETTINGS (read the instructions? WHY!), and the second is an attempt to desolder the "chips" at temperatures at which nothing can melt ... I think - Zadornov was right after all! To begin with - why would DDR2 be soldered to "lead solder" ??? Since the time of SDRAM, everything has been soldered to "lead-free"! So the MINIMUM temperature of the hair dryer should be 450°F !!! It's just to try and melt. For actual desoldering, you need to set the temperature at least 100 degrees higher. I'm sorry. I judge by myself - we have stronger "degrees" here. In your "imperial" number system - 200 ° should be set higher. Total - 650°F!!! And then. what you have done is more like an attempt to "denigrate" this station.
Very clean and calm review. Thanks
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Very thorough! Thank you.
You're very welcome
hi i bought an atten ms 300 including st-862d and my user manual is in Chinese and your video is so useful for me, tnx a lot ❤️ but COL or holding handpiece button for cold air function not working for me? am i missing something?
Glad it helped. No if I hold the button for right at 2 seconds it switches to cold air mode. Never used it other than to try the function out. Mine is version U03. So I don't know. They might have done away with that function in later versions.
Was looking at buying this, but I feel like the hose is a little short, as you also mentioned, any update on the useability?
I've been very happy with it. The shortness of the hose hasn't been a problem. It just has to set close to the work area. It really is not much shorter than soldering iron lead. I would buy it again that's for sure.
Very good demonstration.
i HAVE JUST BOUGHT ONE AND FIND IT GREAT, HAVEN'T GOT THE BENT NOZZLES YET. I SCREWED MY HOLDER DOWN WORKS GREAT. RECOMMENDED.
For working under a microscope I think the bent nozzles are a must have.
Does this station have an EMI filter to prevent switching noise being coupled back into the mains of the building?
It looks like an EMI filter board mounted on the back panel of the case. I have no idea if it does a good job of filtering the switching noises.
That adapter is for Atten 850 nozzles.
Thanks
Any particular time when needed to use the cold air feature during rework?
I haven't had a use for it.
Does the station have a decoupling ac filter to prevent the effects 0f the switching?
I'm sure it has some but it's switching a lot of power. It will cause my lights to flicker a tiny bit.
Hi, with the straight nozzle is more powerful, bend nozzle blow the wing air. Otherwise good review and video
Any idea how to fix E08 error after only few seconds of running? It is brand new unit.
No I sure don't. I have only had mine a couple of months. Does adjusting the air temperature have any effect on the actual air temperature.
I had E08 error i cleaned the thermostate in handle with a mini brush wire and now its working fine….
Can a temperature/ air flow be selected and set with the handle set in the stand?
Yes can set both. The heat is turned off when the handle is put in the stand. I don't remember a setting to disable that.
Is that the ac filter mounted on the inner rear vertical panel inside the station's housing? It is to prevent feedback into the building's electrical system by the switching in the control of the temperature.
yes looks like a noise filter board mounted on the back panel. It should help isolate electrical noise in both directions.
Thank you for your sharing dear~
You are so welcome!
I was going to say something about your airflow at about the 16 minute mark, but it looks like you figured it out.
If you just want to blow a board clean, then yeah, crank everything up and go to town. But, generally speaking, with hot air, you want to be as hot as you can be with very low airflow - especially when installing parts. My go-to setting for both installation and removal is 840°F and anywhere from 10% (lowest possible) to 15% airflow, depending on the surrounding components, ground/power planes, etc.
Also: Whether removing or installing, always heat the part evenly from all sides. That way, you can avoid heat-stressing the parts and burning the PCB itself by overdoing dwell time.
One last thing: I know it's hard to fight the temptation, but don't poke and pull at a part while you're heating it. (Just asking for lifted pads and ripped up traces that way.) If you do everything right, you should see it come loose on its own and start to float on the liquid solder, at which point you grab it or use a pick to flip it over or whatever.
Still, though - if that's your first try, you did way better than I did my first time around. Good job!
Thanks, I was thinking I should try and reduce the air for removal too.
I got time to mess with it again and tried out the 840 and 15% and it really did work great. I really appreciate the the info. Thanks again.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Any time!
You described everything wrong that I have been doing for a while now and that’s pulling up chips which results in having ripped pads
@@ceejay_gaming9636 Just keep practicing. It took me a lot of tries to get it right. Working with hot air takes quite a bit of finesse and no small amount of patience. I'd also recommend any or all of: a magnifying headset, a strong magnifier, or even a stereo/binocular microscope.
ATTEN ST-862D Intelligent digital display hot air rework station for PCB chip welding repair
The quick 861DW is now like 90 dollars cheaper
Mantap..bos..q
Try a test board heating from underneath you may get a better result
Yes, Thanks.
I'm new to hot air stations. If the hose gets damaged, can it be easily replaced?
I really don’t know. I couldn’t find a parts list. I know on the web page they listed the heater, stand and heat gun. But it was such a good price that even without the parts list, I order one. Been very happy with it. I do try not to kink the hose. It might be hard to find silicon tubing that size.
Over a minute a half nothing moves😂😂😂😂 400F is 204C. rolf. 240C is melting point for leadfree solder and around 350C is needed on hotair . why such people making videos where they dont know the basics..
How many videos have you made??? 🤔 😅😅😅
clueless desoldering also... no flux used...
There is a good "comedian" in Russia, his surname is Zadornov. So - about the "Americans" he says this: "Well, STUPID!" and that's a fact. Watching the review, HALF of which is stupidly WANDERING IN THE SETTINGS (read the instructions? WHY!), and the second is an attempt to desolder the "chips" at temperatures at which nothing can melt ... I think - Zadornov was right after all! To begin with - why would DDR2 be soldered to "lead solder" ??? Since the time of SDRAM, everything has been soldered to "lead-free"! So the MINIMUM temperature of the hair dryer should be 450°F !!! It's just to try and melt. For actual desoldering, you need to set the temperature at least 100 degrees higher. I'm sorry. I judge by myself - we have stronger "degrees" here. In your "imperial" number system - 200 ° should be set higher. Total - 650°F!!! And then. what you have done is more like an attempt to "denigrate" this station.