CAN I ALIGN MY JEEP AT HOME? (PART 1)- How to Align Your Jeep.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.พ. 2022
- Showing you a quick and easy way to align your Jeep JK or JKU at home, or on the side of the road, with basic hand tools!
Follow @WarPaintJKU on Instagram for lots more….
***Disclaimer*** This video is just meant to show how I do it. Injury may occur by trying to replicate what is in this video. Attempt at your own risk, with proper equipment and training. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Great video! I've never found a satisfying answer to what caster angle should be and why. You already did a better explanation on it than I've found. Looking forward to a more in depth video on it.
I’m glad it helped! I’ll definitely make a video on it and show how to set it! It’s pretty simple when you know how!
Thank you for taking the time sharing the knowledge
Great explanation of steering basics. Enjoyed it.
Thanks for the support! I’m glad. Just trying to get the information out there an explain thing to people. I’ll be doing giveaway builds and some pretty extreme type things on the channel this coming year. I’ll also be doing more relatable things too. So stay tuned!
beautifully said and taught. I'm here for it
Thanks for the support!
Great information man, thank you✊🇺🇸
Thanks. I learned a lot from this video.
Glad it helped!
Great information and explanations..
Thanks for the support! Trying to make it easier for people to understand.
My kind of channel, in my quest of becoming the "Jack of all trades." Thanks for the great explanation. 👍
I just set the toe in 1/16" on '21 jlur after installing a 2 1/2" SJ lift kit. Some say 1/16" worked better and some 1/8"?? I used 24" toe plates that bolt to rotors and available on ebay and are specified to set toe on Jeeps. These plates are much more precise than measuring front and back of tires.
It’s much more precise than measuring tires for sure. But that is only if the axle is supported on both ends. Believe it or not…factory axles, especially if they aren’t trussed flex a little if you life them from the center. That can throw off your measurement. It also can throw off your measurement if you have worn balljoints that change the angle of the knuckles after it’s on its weight. So assuming everything is I. Good shape…and it’s supported correctly…it’s more accurate.
You can measure the tires…but plates are a good idea. Just not completely necessary. The difference between the 1/16 and 1/8 is really a matter of how much sidewall you have.
Thank you so much for this video!! Just subscribed.
Thanks for the support! Starting a really fun build in about a month. Going to be a real budget way of building one tons and a crazy suspension that people don’t do in JK’s. But super budget…super flexy!
As a JKU owner I find this content very informative, Thanks! I subscribed, and liked.
Thanks again for the support! I am start a pretty cool build this fall on a jku. It’s a 2007. I’m going to be showing how to do your own regear and set up a pretty fun and simple suspension that will flex like crazy! Should be fun. Those regear videos might be a little long. But they will be there as a step by step for the people that want to know how.
@@WarPaintOffroad Do you have any 6 speed manual transmissions in the works?
@@DKoppJr not at the moment. But I do have a friend who just acquired a 6 speed manual jku rubicon. It’s a 2015. We will be going out this weekend with it for the first time. So a good chance there will be some modifications coming to that one in the future. Not sure if they will be specific to the transmission. But other than the clutch and throw out bearing, the manuals have an easier time accepting the modifications due to the lack of sensors compared to the automatic. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. You can find me on Instagram too. It’s easier to message on there. But you can also get in touch with me through my website, www.Warpaintjku.com, my email is on there as well.
@@WarPaintOffroad Excellent!!
BTW, your an excellent teacher. I feel more confident now even after watching many many others. They’re great but the view isn’t clear at important moments here and there. Plus varying opinions can confuse. I’ll tell you what I wish from everyone that is frustrating. Having to watch ten vids to get torc specs and then resorting to Google. Cause either they’re left out or totally different and online is hard to find cause references to any part are all different and info for my Jeep is hard to find cause it’s discontinued or built differently. Why is that? Same year but different?
Thanks for the video!!I’ll be looking here when I need answers, Fer sure! 🙌🏼👏
Thanks for the support! Trying to show everyone how to get their hands dirty at their own comfort level and giving them the info to understand why it’s done the way it is…glad I could help! Keep on jeeping! Lots more to come!
An 1/8” can be a chunk of rust under the rotor.
It could.
Rite on dude.... I need to pick your brain.... I'm a Newbe jeepers. Info is awesome and appreciated
Pick away! Thanks for the support!
Awesome information, thank you. I bought a used 2013 JKU that I believe has a 3-3.5" lift from the dealer, likely Mopar and Rough Country components (the front and rear shocks have Rough Country part #'s). What I'm curious about is, how do I determine the actual lift height so I can determine what I need to replace in the suspension (some of these parts are old, bad bushings, bump stop is falling apart, etc)? Some vids suggest measuring from the center of the wheel/axle to the height of the stock fender, which on mine appears to be 24", and stock would have been ~21"; my JKU has 17" wheels and 35" tires, so not stock. Is there a better/more accurate way to determine this? I'm waiting on the parts to swap out the tie-rod, drag link, and steering stabilizer, and will do the track bar next, but after that, I want to get newer suspension and want to know where I'm currently at.
So the factory lift height, if you measure from the base of the spring perch on the front axle (on the firewall side or backside of the axle) to the bottom of the spring perch on the frame (where the spring sits in the cup…the bottom of the cup right above the bottom perch) is 9 3/8 inches. So measure that on yours and it will determine how much lift height you have above factory. If it’s a rough country set up you really can’t go by spring part numbers because they always sag pretty fast. My jeep can originally with a rough country lift and it was a 3.5 spring that was only giving me 1 inch of lift because it sagged so badly. If you have an Instagram message me there. I can send you a diagram of where to measure to help you better understand. I can’t post that photo here. But you have a good plan. Just don’t go too tall on list or you’ll have to replace lots of other things to make it work nicely. 2.5-3.5 is really the limit for lots of the parts.
@@WarPaintOffroad Subbed and followed, and message sent via Instagram.👍
My JK wonder a
little is that from toe in or camber ,it appears wjheels are toe out some
Pro Tip: if you need to add just a little Caster just add 1-4 oz of castor oil to the front diff
😂😂 amazing.
Wouldn’t the 1/8” toe in on the front be more if measured off the rotor vs off the tires? I guess it makes more sense to do it off of the rotor since most alignment machines go off of the rim clamp.
You know…I never thought about that tbh. But I do it off the rotor because with suck large tires and so much sidewall…the sidewalks and tires sometimes absorb some of the steering angle. Essentially the wheel moves more inside the tire than the tire does (if it’s in the ground). So it’s just easier to do it this way.
Had that same thought myself
AWESOME EDUCATION...What say you about any relationship with Death Wobble...Any of this have any affect..or Not?
Definitely! If it’s not aligned properly it can definitely cause it. Thanks for the support!
@@WarPaintOffroad Thanks for the reply... Not too many people maintain a dialogue with their subscribers... I appreciate it. Keep'em coming!!!
Question do the same thing apply to a 86 cj7 ?
It’s slightly different. But the basic principles of caster angle and toe apply for sure.
@@WarPaintOffroad thanks I'm new to this jeep family
Would be more useful if you specified how far from wheel center to measure toe in. The farther you measure, the bigger the difference between front and rear measurement
As long as it’s the same place in the front and back it doesn’t matter.
@@WarPaintOffroad your logic only applies to parallel wheels. If wheels are not parallel and are indeed slightly toe in, measuring 1 foot from center of the wheel will be different then measuring 2 feet from the wheel center. If you extend these lines they will eventually cross, I am sure you understand this point. So it does matter where you measure. If you use degrees of angle then yes, it would not matter.
I had never changed my own oil most of my life. Get a divorce and have a Jeep from new THATS turning thirteen years old and your broke. I decided I had to do things on my own thanks to Amazon and ALL of the TH-cam Jeepers. My blower motor went out and that’s where it all began.Next was the rear main seal and soo much more!
Always a way to learn if you are willing!
@@WarPaintOffroad and I found out I love wrenching. I just turned 54 and wanted a Jeep from 8 yr old. I’ve had this Jeep since 2004 with 17 miles on it. I had no clue I’d be doing these things and like it. My family says I’m crazy. I say “why do I do it? Because I can!”! (That includes curbs and non road pathways) 🤭
Ps taking my rear drive line out rn. 👏
Why do you smack swallowing that is a irradable thing