Joël - A+ work! Great to hear that exhaust note running perfectly. You've really dialed that engine in nicely. The "clack" you are hearing is one loose valve (as opposed to the too tight valve(s) you had earlier, causing the chuffing). The clack comes from the tappet having a little too much gap and clacking as it contacts the valve. It's not a critical problem and can be addressed as you have time - BUT - it's really nice when the clack is removed and you have a super smooth/quiet runner. My method to identify the offending valve is to take a 3 foot piece of garden hose (or engine heater hose) and use it as a stethoscope. One end to your ear (block your other ear) and then, with the valve cover off, use the other end of the hose to go from valve to valve and find the clack. Tighten the offending valve up. Test again. Once quiet, and not chuffing, close her up and enjoy your sewing-machine-like engine. Bring on the TÜV!!! P.S. Other possible clack is a gap in the manifold gasket - also identifiable with the garden hose stethoscope trick.
Thanks Charles. Excellent advice as ever. I will re-check the valves for this and also as I tightened up the head bolts after setting the valves the first time.
I'm enjoying the progress you're making with the landy, and thank you for such a clear diary of all your hard work! I also get the benefit of you 'asking the audience' for their input - there are some well informed replies out there!
Great work, I like the way the battery has worked out for you and appears to have no problem under load. What a difference a carby kit makes. Good luck with the MOT I can’t wait to see her with EU Number plates holding her own on the local autobahn.
Ah, the petrol cap twiddle... I still do that every time! That engine sounds very much better, much sweeter at idle. The valve train clatter is typical of these engines, your engine sounds just fine and will probably be quieter still after a good run. Re the chuffing/ sucking at the exhaust, most engines have a bit of valve overlap, perhaps just a little too much with the clearances tight. It's amazing how much difference the valve clearances make to the timing. Rattling levers seem to be part of the experience, an "antirattle bungee" has become a permanent feature on my overdrive lever - worth a try.
Thanks, I am determined to find the main rattle culprit tho. :) Yes, it does sound much better. I did a proper timing tune and it runs even better now. I can’t believe how good it sounds. It‘s in the next video, I can’t keep up. The PCV valve arrived today. Will be fitting that tomorrow then the engine is done (well, for now)
That's a very clean engine bay ! I have to do this over the next few weeks. The Weber on my Series 3 did strange things on the school run this week. It would idle but not accelerate. I understand this could be a blocked jet. I turned up the idle one turn to limp home on the choke and it somehow cured it. I can only think the extra suction caused by the faster idle cleared the blockage. We shall see. Nice Landy btw.
Hi and thanks for your message. Do you have a pre carb filter? Could help. But add it on the opposite side to the manifold. Just in case it starts to leak. 👍
I didnt know there was a fuel filter in carb 😮 ill check that out as my landy is rough as a dogs ar#e its the only thing i havent replaced ....good vid mate 👍
Hi Simon, yes it’s a good place to check for blockages. It’s also worth taking apart as mine had stuff in the chambers too. If yours is running rough, it makes a huge difference to do Tappet clearances/timing and then carb. Good luck. 👍
@My911 thanks mate tappets is the only thing I haven't done yet ! I got a service kit for carb and had that filter left over as I never new it was there 😆. It's been messed with a bit so I'm finding out things aren't what they should be . Tappets next thanks for advice 👍
Hi Javier, thanks for your message. I don’t remember how many time I turned it, but I think the number of turns is typical to your vehicle. I did it by feel. You can hear it when it is right.
Sounding much better, I think your main problem was a vacuum leak around the missing gasket, the plugs looked lean last time you showed them for a truck not doing any long trips or in regular use. Now you know the huge difference setting tappets makes, do them again if you haven't after re torquing the head (hot if the manual says to). Setting mixture on the carb before timing is a waste of time, it will change relative to timing, really need to buy that timing light, you will find the rpm read out useful for setting mixture with a modern timing light. That crap in the filter wasn't that bad, but you do have a disposable fuel filter in line before the carb yes? And changed it? Getting close, I would guess you have another 10% performance there if you take it easy and do one thing at a time in the right order. Road testing is the way to go from here on, small adjustments, drive the car, pull a plug, check it and repeat until you are happy. Same route, with the same hills if possible helps.
Thanks Greg, yes I know, you are right. Timing is the key and it’s coming up in the next (or next but one) video. It’s getting close. Those timing tools are brilliant.
Very satisfying to watch, thank you very much. Did you get to the bottom of the hesitation on acceleration? Mine is doing the same and unable to get around it yet.
Hi, thanks for your mail. Yes, it disappeared when I set up the timing correctly. It’s so important. As is to tune the tappets by setting the gaps properly.
Hi.. I have another equation... these Webers have an adapter metal ring that sits on top of the carb and allows for the "L" shaped pipe to be connected to the oil bath air cleaner.... This ring is a bit loose on mine as I suspect it was on yours, and not at all tight.... it looks like on yours that you have a black strip of rubber or something around the top of the carb so that this adapter ring sits tightly? is that want I can see on yours?... what is that black strip made of?
Hi, yes this is a common problem and while I am sure there is a better solution, I used black electrical tape to tighten the gap. That is what you can see. Even then the hold isn’t great. Hope this helps.
@@My911 you may not necessarily be doing anything wrong. You’ll have to remind me, did you overhaul the engine? New valve gear? If not, the face of the rocker can wear a groove into it on the end of the valve stem. The feeler blade bridges the gap and you end up with a larger gap than needed. You can also get wear on one side of the cam followers. I’m not saying that’s the problem, but it’s a possibility if the engine hasn’t been rebuilt.
Hi Mark, I didn’t rebuild the head. It wasn’t that old when it came off the road. It’s a Turner Engineering gas flow head from ‘96. It’s only had a few years use.
@@My911 Well if you start one let me know (mine is @sceneryandmachinery). I'm undertaking many of the same tasks you are but with my Series 2a, doing the work at weekends with my brother who is actually a mechanic (I'm certainly not!) and driving it through the week. Keeping up with other people's Landy problems/solutions is keeping me going!
Joël - A+ work! Great to hear that exhaust note running perfectly. You've really dialed that engine in nicely. The "clack" you are hearing is one loose valve (as opposed to the too tight valve(s) you had earlier, causing the chuffing). The clack comes from the tappet having a little too much gap and clacking as it contacts the valve. It's not a critical problem and can be addressed as you have time - BUT - it's really nice when the clack is removed and you have a super smooth/quiet runner. My method to identify the offending valve is to take a 3 foot piece of garden hose (or engine heater hose) and use it as a stethoscope. One end to your ear (block your other ear) and then, with the valve cover off, use the other end of the hose to go from valve to valve and find the clack. Tighten the offending valve up. Test again. Once quiet, and not chuffing, close her up and enjoy your sewing-machine-like engine. Bring on the TÜV!!!
P.S. Other possible clack is a gap in the manifold gasket - also identifiable with the garden hose stethoscope trick.
Thanks Charles. Excellent advice as ever. I will re-check the valves for this and also as I tightened up the head bolts after setting the valves the first time.
I'm enjoying the progress you're making with the landy, and thank you for such a clear diary of all your hard work! I also get the benefit of you 'asking the audience' for their input - there are some well informed replies out there!
Hi Frogeye, thank you and yes, this is very true. The knowledge is amazing and so helpful on this project. A lot of great people out there.
Great work, I like the way the battery has worked out for you and appears to have no problem under load. What a difference a carby kit makes. Good luck with the MOT I can’t wait to see her with EU Number plates holding her own on the local autobahn.
Thanks Steve, I will be nothing but a blur in their rear view mirrors... ))
Ah, the petrol cap twiddle... I still do that every time! That engine sounds very much better, much sweeter at idle. The valve train clatter is typical of these engines, your engine sounds just fine and will probably be quieter still after a good run. Re the chuffing/ sucking at the exhaust, most engines have a bit of valve overlap, perhaps just a little too much with the clearances tight. It's amazing how much difference the valve clearances make to the timing.
Rattling levers seem to be part of the experience, an "antirattle bungee" has become a permanent feature on my overdrive lever - worth a try.
Thanks, I am determined to find the main rattle culprit tho. :)
Yes, it does sound much better. I did a proper timing tune and it runs even better now. I can’t believe how good it sounds. It‘s in the next video, I can’t keep up. The PCV valve arrived today. Will be fitting that tomorrow then the engine is done (well, for now)
Sounds great! I have the issue with my S2 off to a valve adjustment! Great work!
Thanks Jamie. It’s well worth doing. I have also since done the timing and it’s even better now!! Very pleased.
That's a very clean engine bay !
I have to do this over the next few weeks. The Weber on my Series 3 did strange things on the school run this week. It would idle but not accelerate. I understand this could be a blocked jet. I turned up the idle one turn to limp home on the choke and it somehow cured it. I can only think the extra suction caused by the faster idle cleared the blockage. We shall see. Nice Landy btw.
Hi and thanks for your message. Do you have a pre carb filter? Could help. But add it on the opposite side to the manifold. Just in case it starts to leak. 👍
Hi thanks I noticed mine has no spring!! Gary
Ah, there’s always something missing!
I didnt know there was a fuel filter in carb 😮 ill check that out as my landy is rough as a dogs ar#e its the only thing i havent replaced ....good vid mate 👍
Hi Simon, yes it’s a good place to check for blockages. It’s also worth taking apart as mine had stuff in the chambers too. If yours is running rough, it makes a huge difference to do Tappet clearances/timing and then carb. Good luck. 👍
@My911 thanks mate tappets is the only thing I haven't done yet ! I got a service kit for carb and had that filter left over as I never new it was there 😆.
It's been messed with a bit so I'm finding out things aren't what they should be .
Tappets next thanks for advice 👍
Thanks for a great video! How many turns out from fully tightened did you adjust the mixture control screw?
Hi Javier, thanks for your message. I don’t remember how many time I turned it, but I think the number of turns is typical to your vehicle. I did it by feel. You can hear it when it is right.
Sounding much better, I think your main problem was a vacuum leak around the missing gasket, the plugs looked lean last time you showed them for a truck not doing any long trips or in regular use. Now you know the huge difference setting tappets makes, do them again if you haven't after re torquing the head (hot if the manual says to). Setting mixture on the carb before timing is a waste of time, it will change relative to timing, really need to buy that timing light, you will find the rpm read out useful for setting mixture with a modern timing light. That crap in the filter wasn't that bad, but you do have a disposable fuel filter in line before the carb yes? And changed it? Getting close, I would guess you have another 10% performance there if you take it easy and do one thing at a time in the right order. Road testing is the way to go from here on, small adjustments, drive the car, pull a plug, check it and repeat until you are happy. Same route, with the same hills if possible helps.
Thanks Greg, yes I know, you are right. Timing is the key and it’s coming up in the next (or next but one) video. It’s getting close. Those timing tools are brilliant.
it's now crying out for a Road Trip 😉
Very satisfying to watch, thank you very much. Did you get to the bottom of the hesitation on acceleration? Mine is doing the same and unable to get around it yet.
Hi, thanks for your mail. Yes, it disappeared when I set up the timing correctly. It’s so important. As is to tune the tappets by setting the gaps properly.
You do need to take the top half off to clean the float bowl.
Tappets adjustment needed
You are right. I did that a few episodes later and it runs like a dream!
Hi.. I have another equation... these Webers have an adapter metal ring that sits on top of the carb and allows for the "L" shaped pipe to be connected to the oil bath air cleaner.... This ring is a bit loose on mine as I suspect it was on yours, and not at all tight.... it looks like on yours that you have a black strip of rubber or something around the top of the carb so that this adapter ring sits tightly? is that want I can see on yours?... what is that black strip made of?
Hi, yes this is a common problem and while I am sure there is a better solution, I used black electrical tape to tighten the gap. That is what you can see. Even then the hold isn’t great. Hope this helps.
@@My911 Its a start thanks... weird that they would make it this way
Glue the ring on with an epoxy adhesive or some Loctite would be my suggestion.
Re the “clacking” from the engine, it sounds to me like you may have a little too much valve clearance.
Thanks Mark, I’ve set them twice now. Not sure what I’m doing wrong there.
@@My911 you may not necessarily be doing anything wrong. You’ll have to remind me, did you overhaul the engine? New valve gear? If not, the face of the rocker can wear a groove into it on the end of the valve stem. The feeler blade bridges the gap and you end up with a larger gap than needed. You can also get wear on one side of the cam followers. I’m not saying that’s the problem, but it’s a possibility if the engine hasn’t been rebuilt.
Hi Mark, I didn’t rebuild the head. It wasn’t that old when it came off the road. It’s a Turner Engineering gas flow head from ‘96. It’s only had a few years use.
Love these videos, do you have an Instagram account?
Hi Eric, Thank you. I don’t. But I should really get one. I was actually thinking about it today actually.
@@My911 Well if you start one let me know (mine is @sceneryandmachinery). I'm undertaking many of the same tasks you are but with my Series 2a, doing the work at weekends with my brother who is actually a mechanic (I'm certainly not!) and driving it through the week. Keeping up with other people's Landy problems/solutions is keeping me going!