How to Set Boulders & Routes - For all level!
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Setting routes and boulders in the new climbing gym in Kristiansand!
This video was edited by: Markus ►@skaane
Erlend ► @erlendnundal
Sponsors:
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Since i found this video really entertaining, now imagine Magnus. You set a boulder on one of these walls every now and then. You film it, doesnt have to take the whole time of the video, maybe just like an outro "thanks for watching, if you stay a little longer ill show how i set up this months boulder in timelapse, see you next time" people then can come to your gym and try it for a month - they can film it and send it to you - you choose the one who did it the "coolest" or "most aesthetic" way, and this person wins to set up a route for YOU, and you try it then and rate it. It´ll also be kinda lika a "meet and greet" but which is truely earned since they have to do the boulder. F***, i would totally watch that! i would even fly in to try yours.
Wow rlly Love this idea:D someone vote it up pls^^
Waow that's a freaking amazing idea!!
I love ideas like this that engage us all together as a community to climb
this would be great
!
Magnus: I‘m gonna set a downward dyno...
Also Magnus: It‘s bad for your shoulders.
... but it's not a World Cup, so what could possibly go wrong? 😆
the downward dynos they'd have to set for world cup level climbers would probably be much further and harder - and therefore much more taxing on the shoulders. A small one should be okay, I guess...
@@philaeew4866 Exactly. The problem with downward dyno's lies in the fact that you gain a lot of downwards momentum because you're basically falling. Catching that creates huge peak force which might cause shoulder problems. So as long as the momentum is not too big both downwards and sideways it's quite OK.
@@cornelisgraper8678 shoulder and ligament/joint strength comes into play there.
stoked to enjoy video this with a cup of chalk in the morning
The best part of waking up, is white powder in a cup.
@@GameTimeWhy "I meant sugar officer."
Thank you for absolutely destroying my beta, Magnus
That was funny. However ontended strat looked quite cool.
My first set was horrible, you did great! Your climbing looks like it's improving as well!
Do better. :-P I felt a tiny bit sorry for you even before he climbed it because the different beta was so obvious.
It was so incredibly satisfying seeing him fail that last one, get taught the clock move(s), then try again, push through, and succeed. Such a fun video. Hadn't watched anyone design routes before. I can see how it could get addicting and feel like an art--making it visually appealing, forcing satisfying moves and shapes, etc. FIVE STARS, plus chalk!
There's one video where Jake (Bouldering Bobat) is trying to remake a WorldCup boulder; also really interesting.
I'm enjoying this right now drinking tea, not coffee.
Jellal would drink coffeeee
Stuff tea and coffee hot chocolete
Is that because a frothy coffee would give you a mustache?
That was awesome, Magnus. I know you’re not inclined to do this again with the livestream but I loved it and I suspect the rest of us did also
I loved it as well... even though the quality was shit
@@magmidt I think the quality was more than enough... the special thing about this was not quality but rather being able to connect with you while watching it and have this nice interaction :)
Keep doing what you´re doing, it´s a big inspiration for all of us :)
Sorry to squeeze in on your comment, but I gotta ask if Magnus has any merchandise, I would love to support your channel in any way I could, however small it may be, please message back
@@magmidt hey Magnus, I'm a climber from Eastern Washington State USA, I was born with feet that climb very well but on the ground, I use a wheelchair. what do you think about "disabled" people bouldering?? Please reply, thanks.
@@magmidt just ordered a chalk bag, cant wait for shirts and the Magnus climbing shoes and all the great climbing gear to hopefully come in the future. What kind of rope do you prefer, mine is TRUBLUE, thank you for the great videos Magnus
My Name is Markus and I rly was shocked, when Magnus said "We gonna teach you Markus how to set" and points at the camera at 0:53 ;D
"Do you know what a figure 4 is?" is basically the same question as "do you watch ice climbing?"
Five minutes into watching ice climbing for the first time i felt like i knew that move like the back of my hand
"Figure 4" was a leglock that was used in professional wrestling. Are you guys going to wrestle then? You should team up on Magnus! :-P
I don't watch ice climbing but I still know. I think I've seen it used at least twice in last year's IFSC cup finals, by female climbers.
27:55 overcome by a powerful urge to hang. BRB!
“I’m Magnus Mitbø and this is my masterclass.”
Why do I keep clicking on these videos about climbing? And why do I keep watching them all the way through?
I don't even climb
Dammit, Earl!
You should try it
Gomace climbing is calling you. Join us, join us...
Plot twist: Gomace is flashing V8s, 7 months into his climbing journey
I need a Rúngne shirt
i second that. i've been waiting for the next Rúngne product to release so i can buy it.
he could make them with Norrona. I'm pretty sure he is sponsored by them.
41:46 "Earls" face looks sooo worried when Magnus says that they are both investors. Don't worry man, it's going to be crazy good. I'll definitively visit!
Magnus is the kind of guy everyone wants to be friends with
Hey magnus. I always wonder are you allowed to stick your fingers in the screw holes that aren’t filled on the hold? I often see people doing it and I do it myself sometimes. Not sure if it’d be allowed in comp and haven’t been able to get a clear answer no matter where I ask.
Why is everyone gonna watch this over coffee in the morning lol
I'm gonna watch this over tea in the afternoon. So there you have it.
Ikr, I'm having a nice cup of hot chocolate at 5 pm (which is in 5 minutes) and watch this vid while drinking it so can't relate :D
Well, what would you think of us Americans if we had whiskey at this time of the day. ;)
It's near midnight
In the US the video released somewhat late in the morning on a Sunday which is a time many people would be drinking coffee.
premiers in 30 min which is 4 o'clock in the afternoon for me might as well enjoy it with some coffee in the morning.
4:20 I laughed at loud.
You should do route setting more often, it's cool.
Cheers all
Oh boy, I'm going to have some coffee while watching this so excited.
Great video as always Magnus. Because of you, I started climbing and I love it just did my first 6a+ a few days ago and I'm psyched to keep climbing when my arms stop feeling like they are going to fall off.
Thank you, keep climbing!
i bought your chalk bag in bright blue and it came 2 days ago it is absolutely amazing. are you going to come to trondheim sometime? and btw love your videos you are inspiring me to climb better
I have finally watched EVERY single video you guys have uploaded! I think it's time for round 2.
This video was awesome. It was so different from what we're used to seeing, and I love the varying experience levels the 3 of you have. It's fun to watch the different ways you think. Markus you did a great job! Also, you've been a fantastic addition to the team. Thanks for your contribution thus far. :)
Thank you! :D
Kinda glad I caught this live, definitely a different experience watching a video like this. Much love
I’m actually so exited to enjoy this over some coffee in the morning! Magnus is such an informative climber who never ceases to inspire :)
Please set a bat hang to figure 4, which is my default beta to tell at someone, cause the answer is never bat hang to figure 4
Oh boy, I'm going to watch this whilst drinking my coffee, very excited
Premieres in 2 hours, that’s 1am for me. Oh well I’ll watch it over coffee in the morning.
The vid is also over 40 mins long:-P
40 min!! 😮
I think i’m going to need more coffee!
Maybe some chalk on the side
Not gonna lie, I'm pretty excited! In advance, thank you for the great content Magnus❤🤘
It’s refreshing to see such a consistently positive and supportive corner of the internet.
Get a 1/4 inch *impact driver* to fasten those bolts and screws, that is literally the best tool for those particular fasteners. I recommend a Milwaukee M12 Surge. This has all the torque you need, it's super small, and there is no wrist fatigue like with a normal drill driver, so you can fasten the bolts one handed.
where was the figure 4?
I'm disappointed!
The figure 4 was the friends we made along the way
I love all of your content, and have been watching since you first went to visit Juji and Tom.
I think this is my new favorite magnus video. I would love to see more route setting vids with more people, its both fantastic and educational to casual climbers like myself. I had no idea what a clock was until this video!
When you specifically request a setting video and Magnus delivers like a boss! :)
me and my climbing buddy try figure 4s on almost anything..... bored? get on a random route and try a figure four. having issues with a route? try a figure four. one of the route setters at our gym has just given up on taking some of our beta seriously lol
leaving a comment for the algorythm :)
and also drinking coffee but in the evening...
what a theme haha..
I'm really curious about the part at the end where they are reviewing holds. It seems like they have a high preference for ergonomic, intentionally designed holds and strongly dislike holds that have random, weird, or less artificial shapes. Is this a pretty ubiquitous opinion in the indoor bouldering community these days or is it mostly just their personal preferences? It's been some time since I last climbed, and the walls I climbed on mostly had those "20 years ago" style holds on them. We tended to like them more, actually, since it felt much less contrived. I always thought it just made a problem more boring when every hold on it was a cookie cutter, smooth, and regular shape predictably made to fit someone's hand in a particular way. Am I the only one who feels this way?
I feel this way as well as someone who prefers climbing outside a lot. I feel like the new holds are cool but it’s great to find a way to fit it for yourself
Oh boy! Can’t wait to watch this while drinking my coffee!
magnus probably sniffs chalk in the afternoon
hahaha your funny
@@SondreO69 You're*
@@pontusolssonPrivat your*
@@SondreO69 seriously though how do you not know the difference?
@@pontusolssonPrivat im kong harald and why do you even care
When your name is Marcus and he personally addresses you 00:55 .... Mind blown.
Fckn EARL putting so much pressure to be so good it was his first time route setting god
I’d sign up for a Magnus Midtbø route setting class
Super interesting video! Thanks Magnus.
I am drinking coffee while I'm watching this. I love you Magnus, hälsningar från Sverige.
it s so relaxing to watch this, no rush in the editing, you just sit and enjoy
16:43 love the Spongebob reference 😂😂
Nice, the best way to have a coffee in the morning is to watch a Sir Magnus Midtbo video on the side.
thanks to albert ok, i know the figure
nice vid btw
This is really fun. Love watching everyone try each other’s boulders
30:38
Thaaats what she said😂
It's satisfying when Magnus thinks so highly about its viewers😂😂😂
"Probably 95 percent don't know jack shit😂😂😂"
I expect to see your subscribership jump to the moon. I saw you and Anton on TV last night for the American Ninja warrior USA vs THE WORLD. Now everyone knows who Magnus Meatball is. Congrats!!
Make this a series! I'd watch this religiously and the videos don't even need to be that long
Super interesting video. Incredibly informative and interesting for new climbers like myself.
Heey magnus or any other climbers!!!
I have been toprope climbing for over a year now and I need some new shoes does anyone have some recomendations.... the grade I am currently climbing is a 6a+/6b... I like the more technical routes more than the one where u need a lot of muscles(cause I don't have any😋) starting to get quite comfy on small holds and some crimps
Any recomendations???
Thank u guys in advance
Whether we wanted it or not,
we’ve stepped into a war with the Cabal on Mars. So let’s get to taking out their command one by one. Valus Ta’aurc. From what I can gather, he commands the Siege Dancers from an Imperial land tank outside Rubicon. He’s well protected. But with the right team we can punch through their defenses, take this beast out, and break their grip on Freehold.
“It’s already…. 1am?” “Something like that ya” me at 4:16am binge watching while away from my home gym 👁-👁
I hope everyone has their coffee ready, as I do, to enjoy during the premiere!
Please keep doing these videos! I love route setting and this is great motivation to get the creative flow going
Oh the gringe.... please never use an angle grinder without proper fastening of your workpiece. One wrong move and your disc might shatter sending shrapnell everywhere. At least you wore the 200% safety glasses.
Figure of four is usually used in steep ice climbing. If you wrap your leg around your arm, sometimes you can reach farther. It’s helpful when you have a good hold with a big move to a bad hold that you can’t dyno to.
I'm an old school climber, you bet I know what a fig four is, but these days people are so strong they can just deadpoint or dyno so no one uses them except ice climbers :( haven't finished the video yet so I'm excited to see how he forces it
Very cool video, thanks for the schooling! Waiting impatiently or the shirts......
That looks like so much fun. I'd get super OCD and try to perfect every single part of the boulder and itd end up taking me about 11 hours to achieve anything lol.
As an american who doesn't really know much outside english, no need to say Earl Magnus. You don't need to americanize names at all, just say peoples names. It might help to put a spelling in the edit when you introduce them, but once we see the name, and here and see you use the name to refer to the person, we are all on the same page. Don't overthink it.
2 out of first 3 problems are so much harder to climb if your arm span a bit shorter than theirs :/ seems like a lot of gyms do this. The problems look really fun tho! Nice job :)
i literally looked up rock climbing lingo a few days ago and the figure 4 was one of the things in it. its much like the figure 4 leg lock in wrestling but you are doing it on the rock. it didn't have any images or i could describe how it would look or be applied but that's the description that was given
I know what a figure 4 is. It's a move taken from ice climbing where u put your legs over one arm to give yourself more pull.
I know what a figure-4 is, I just never seem to find it useful when bouldering really
Marte should set you a boulder! If it's half as funny as the laser pointer, it would be awesome content!!!
This was so cool I liked this one!
Magnus was that you on american ninja warrior U.S.A vs the world on the Europe team
figure 4s are extremely common in ice climbing. its a funky move, but you gotta do what you gotta do when there are no footholds
Have a maybe stupid question. How could you know what's the level you gonna make is?
Figure four is where your holding onto a hold and you put your opposite leg over your arm so you can reach a hold. But it’s mostly used in ice climbing.
You videos always make me happy, and I don't even climb. Haha. Thanks
I know what a figure four is. Did it yesterday in the Gym, slipped and fell on my back. I mean i fell on the Pad but it isnt great to fall from 7 feet on your back
4:20 Magus is the meme where the guy closes his eyes
Talking about memes the timestamp is 4:20 lol
@@LitenLuni Hitler's Birthday!
R3l3ntl3ss weed day
The figure 4 is the ice climbing move right?
This is why I feel like Magnus has such great content, he listens to viewers and it feels natural not forced in anyway whatsoever. Thank you!
One of your best for a while. It was good getting perspective from three different levels of climber, 6th, 7th and 8th grade. I'm sure unexperienced or non climbers appreciated this also.
love this Magnus. your channel got me to start climbing, i started about 2 months ago and im at 6b/b+ now! best sort of "workout" ever!
Watching ANW USA vs the World. hoping you do great brother.
This is so cool need to thry that clock . Leave it untill the girl from Poland grab IT 🤗
Drinking an Americano while enjoying the latest video of Magnus in the morning. Loving it
Yeah 700k congrats!! Watching this now! 😊6 months later
"It didn't feel right" aka, I couldn't do it :P
I know it too well...
Thank for the Pro tips Magnus.. I'll be sure to use this as a guideline when I build my wall.
Figure four is when you support your weight on your hand by crossing your leg around it so your body shape looks like a 4 right?
I think Pink Floyd is going to sue your AC system for ripping off Echoes
Awesome video I loved the vid... I’ve been wanting to learn more about setting.
1 vote for Kvelertak to be the official soundtrack of this channel. For the pride of Norway!!!!
Love this episode really much
I love this information, thanks Magnus!
Helpfull video as I just built a bouldering wall in my basement and needed ideas for setting up routes
Iam so Jealouse, the gym looks amazing, setting routes with magnus, learning rout setting. I'll visit norway one one day and this gyms are my biggest reason
A figure four is when you have to cross your leg over your arm to twist your body in a different direction
When Earl demonstrates the clock, it actually made a clock ticking sound
42 minute video for the morning, thank you sir
Is there some sort of coffee subculture among Magnus's viewer base lol
a 40 min video !!! yes Magnus love your videos :) would love to come over to Norway to climb
What is "EUURL'S" real name? I much preferred hearing his actual name.