Pro Route Setter VS Beginner Route Setter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2023
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The style that Josh's boulder is set in is what I like to call "Tall".
Haha it’s not that tall…. Is it 😅
That’s how almost every climb in my gym is set… I’m 5 feet tall, and I have short ams
@@JoshRundle its pain not being able to climb the grade you normaly do in the gym because you cant reach a hold or reach it so streched out you are mechanically disadvantaged. it looks great tho.
@@Basicallydirt I think shorter people would be able to do it too it would just be a bit harder and have to reach lower on the holds. But definitely harder, thank you :)!
@@JoshRundle I can only imagine how hard it must be to set a boulder for a wide range of people without it being to easy/too hard or impossible and then assigning a grade to it. I think you both did a good job setting interesting boulders.
I'm a tall setter myself so I understand Josh's struggle but the fact that the first move is going to be near impossible for people who can't keep the foot on is a major problem
major problem for minor human
A 3 for 6'6" is an 11 for 5'8" can't reach
A 3 for 5'8" is 11 for 6'6" if the wall won't allow a reverseed under cling grip to pretzel reach
The natural wall don't cair about your size or my size . Over compensate and concur the wall that said no.
"I'm Dave and i'm just an average climber".
Then proceeds to flash both boulders and break the beta on the black one.
The dude should be in more videos!
The biggest problem with Joshs Boulder seems to be to me that the beginning gets much, much more difficult once you are to small to reach the first hold statically. Everyone below like 1.70 probably gets shot down there really hard unless he or she is really really strong.
Wut
Gotta jump and hold the Gaston
I agree with that….as a 6ft climber….
the problem is that he suck at setting like the video stated lol
As a taller climber (and therefore with more weight) I often have disadvantages in overhangs.
.
The real Oppenheimer vs. Barbie battle we all deserved!! Both look like perfect projects!
Which is which?
@MWM304 one is black and one is pink, I'm going to make an assumption using that info 💗😂
haha this is my favourite comment maybe ever! ( I still don't know which to watch first )
@@sophiep7184 Oppenheimer was black?
@@JoshRundle neither
I like both problems. I do think the black would be really cool without the massive platform at the bottom. Ben almost just did the boulder without it and seems like it would have a really cool flow without a stop halfway through. Because of that I'd probably vote Bens problem since it is more sustained. I also really like when gyms set crimp lines as it feels so rare now, at least at my gym.
Agreed for sure
I would 100% try Ben's boulder first, but Josh's boulder look surprisingly cool to climb!
SURPRISINGLY!? (Just kidding ;) ) thanks :) , tbd Bens boulder was awesome
regardless of the boulders themselves what this is an actual really good example of is the role a head route-setter plays during setting. letting other setters make "mistakes" and allowing them to run down erroneous lines of thought to come out on the other side with a rough idea that can be modified into a good boulder as opposed to dissecting each hold as they go on the wall.
I would definitely like Josh's boulder more. Since the beta for pink one is kind of straight forward you will flash it if you have the finger strength and probably never climb it again. The black boulder has fun moves so I'd do it couple times even after I send it :)
Thanks :)
I think you so called 'arogance' Shows that you are Just a Natural, as a Routesetter.@@JoshRundle
I now wanna see the other way around! Same holds, but different setter!
On josh's problem you might only need to ad one small foothold at the start to make it slightly easier. Cool problem's 🤟
Bro, this girl just cruised the first two moves of your bloc in the background of the outtro! She even held the cutloose that no-one else could hold! At least have the decency to show us the rest of her attempt
I only this when I was editing! Sadly at the end as you can see my back is turned to the wall.
@@JoshRundle too bad 😞. I liked your boulder though! Cool moves. I love the big moves and cutloose kind of boulders though I'm actually better at the crimps
@@joepvanderven4882 Thanks!!
Wow, a video of my favorite series of hold!
Maybe that's an absurd thing to say, but I always get giddy when I see a new boulder set with those huge black star holds.
I mean Josh your boulder looked awesome- people who would come in the gym would definitely be like oh I want to try this boulder as the aesthetics are good. Very fun video thanks Josh! :)
for setting, I would definitely prefer the smaller holds :-D just setting with volumes and big holds seems pretty hard for a beginner lol
Climbing Hangar! Those pink walls are iconic
I think I'd prefer Ben's because it looks like it's more equal to different hights
I'd honestly love to try Josh's boulder. Looks unconventional and fresh :)
lovely video and lovely people! that's the way Josh! Kudos ❤
Thank you 🙏
Fun video that makes curious for your workshop
I'd probably prefer josh's boulder. I'm drawn to big holds like a moth to light
pretty cool video as always josh! i was wondering when you started climbing? in general i think it would be cool to see a video about your climbing history, fun ascents personal milestones etc.! anyway, thanks for the nice content!
Thank you 😊! I started climbing 10 years ago now so a long time! Thank you, I’m thinking about making a video about this soon actually!
@@JoshRundle That's awesome!
I love how Josh is like I'll add a foot instead of turning the dual text upside right
They both look not my style which is surprising. Both a 1-2 grades too hard for me but id probably have more fun linking joshs.
@@vybz987 same
@@gimpshaman lmao i meant to comment this, not reply
ofr smaller folks there on Joshs boulder. You could avoid this large hold and instantly go to next hold after start if you have enough core. Should work from the looks of it. You could also avoid padling before the top if you put your left heel on the top of the largest volume.
Pulley destroying crimp ladders are a no for me, so I’d try (and fail) on Josh’s a half dozen times before trying Ben’s. But then again, I’m also a tall fan of big moves 😅
Nice, I wondered when a video about this would appear! I tried the climbs a couple of times but they were way beyond my level 😅
Thanks! Which one did you like more though? We did set some hard climbs!
@@JoshRundle Yours was more interesting to puzzle over for me, and also didn't have any finger-destroying small holds so it gets my vote! 👍
Tbf - Dave may want to re-assess his 'average normal climber' intro, right before flashing 2 pretty hard climbs(!)
Both seem great! I'm only 5'7" but I have a pretty open style so I'd enjoy both if i could send them. I don't even care if black is harder for short people. Still looks sendable to me!
Wow, Dave really made that black one look easy
He's a strong guy!
Josh's boulder is more interesting for sure. It has problems, but the moves look cool and it can easily take a few tries to do it. Ben's boulder is straightforward. I like my crimps, but I'll probably do it in 1-2 tries or never.
Josh's looks fun, not sure if I could do it. But Ben's looks more what I would gravitate to at first glance, more my style.
im french and glad to see your using our expressions and its "plat de résistance" not "pièce de resistance" btw
I’m trying my best 😅🇫🇷 ahh thank you I never knew! I would actually love to learn French!!
I would not agree 😆 that crimp problem looks horrible 🤣🤣 but great video mate
I feel like I would prefer Josh's boulder as it is my preferred style, where as one of my best friends would love Ben's boulder as she loves crimps and the high foot is like the finishing touch for her.
Feels like we should know the skill level at the beginning. Is it hard, fun? The criteria aren't given
Sorry I don’t understand. What sort of skill level do you mean?
Sorry, So to expand. I know grade levels like 4a 6b are subjective, but it give the audience a number to latch onto that we'd use to understand expertise level. If this is an easy boulder or a hard one that we're are trying to build. Are we trying difficulty or trying to build the same ish difficulty but funner.
Ultimatly I think the formate is great, but the objective didn't come through as I saw it on the thumbnail. I want to see the problem, the struggle, the climax, the conclusion.
I think your off to a great show, just some little things I saw. ✌️
Ah I understand now thank you. I can see thank, thank you so much for taking the time to explain what could be better, and I really mean that! Always looking to improve but sometimes it can be hard to see what can be better from my own biased view.
Josh Rundle is lowkey the funniest of all climbing channels on YT
Haha thank you 😊
Josh all the way!! For the same reason as that last guy, I'll let other people injure their pulleys on those crimps (I've done my share). Loving those big black holds of yours too! I'll add that Ben is such a good feat to have in a video : fun and great sport!
Josh's problem is a broken ankle waiting to happen
Exactly my thoughts.
Josh Rundle: The Jeremy Clarkson of Bouldering 😂Great video!
hahaha I used to love Top Gears so I'll take it!
I would totally prefer Ben's boulder, but that's JUST because it suits my strengths and comfort zone. But I'd make myself do Josh's. As far as who's I'd prefer.....purely on looks would be Josh's. Both set great problems. I'm jealous I can't come try them for myself.
Your comfort zone is putting your body weight onto your fingers?!
Man... that's weird.
@@toknowwhyuneed3593 yes I'm weird, never claimed to be "normal" LOL
When I saw Josh's boulder, I was like ok, are you supposed to start from the left or right :D
I like Josh's movements. Definitely can remove the ledge though. The foot placement made the ledge pointless. It was put in for the upper sequence but it wasn't taken into consideration that it will also affect the ledge.
Ben's seems like one I would do to just feel good for finishing it. Not necessarily fun. I like to think when bouldering and Ben's was straightforward
Dave: "Hello, I am Dave, I am a normal, average climber "
also Dave: completely obliterates both Boulders like it were nothing
i would love to try the pink problem. just because i'm tiny and i would have just given up when i see the black boulder.
great video!!
Thanks 😊
this is such a fun idea
Thank you 😃
Maybe the angle of the video is a bit weird, but I feel like you can almost skip the entire start of Joshs boulder with a big jump or by grabbing the bottom of the 1/4s and balancing out to the platform. I feel like someone as tall as Josh could defininetly reach and do it.
Josh‘s boulder could be so much better by moving the starting foothold as well as the starting hold lower left to try to force people into using the undercling to walk on the starting hold to reach the upper part of the underclings volume.
Go head to head, hold by hold, setting two boulders on the same wall. You're allowed to use holds to block the other setter's route, but can't take any of your holds on once you put them on.
joshs for sure!
I would defently try the pink one first
So confused about if the Boulders went up simultaneously or the pink first and then the black.
I’d wanna climb the pink one bc I love crimps, the color pink, and HATE giant holds
Omg those tiny tiny tiny holds. HOW 🤣I’m still at a V1 🤣and mostly do jugs because I CANT HOLD ON 🤣🤣🤣
uff that big volume low, is a ledge you dont want to fall onto from the pink. I would probably not attempt pink due to bad fall potential.
we were a bit worried about it to start with but it would actually be really hard to fall on it :)
so both of u are the people Im to curse out whilst climbing a route. cause it SUCKS and is a pain in the backside for me 😂😂 Great video guys
😂😂😂 sorry
I actually prefer the black set. I like routes that present with actual problems or challenges to figure out. Only one person actually figured out the first heel set.
18:33 He did an inverted wide pony 🤣
The pain watching josh slide holds along the wall 😭
Being less then 5'8", I would work on Ben's project for sure because.
These expensive holds definitely have an influence on the gym membership cost.
I think I prefer Ben’s but Josh’s looks really fun
21:47 why did every climber in the background fall at once? Lol 😅
Dave is a goat for choosing the black one I hate crimps too and would also go for the black one
Climbing the pink one is seriously impressive! As a non-climber, it just looks like your scaling gum stuck on a wall.
is this at the climbing hangar in reading because i recognise some of the climbs
I think I could make a living, making premium gym climbing holds. All I need is a plastic press and good branding
Not sure the thank god ledge postition should be called Honnolding. Hundreds have done it before him, hundreds havw done it since (with gear, still the same position).
New fear unlocked: routesetting alone, accidentally trapping my hand while screwing a large hold and dropping the drill whilst on top of the stepladder. Stuck there forever. Thank God I don't set routes!
haha sorry that's my bad
Tbh ben’s boulder is a very common nice crimp boulder you see around in every gyms…good movement like in the outdoor but nothing new and memorable…..
Josh’s boulder looks more fun….but agrees the honnolding is totally unnecessary 😂
I like Ben's coz I like slabs, but Josh's is the one I want to climb
I wanted to see the girl at the end send Josh’s boulder
Absolutely trying the black problem first. However, as a gym manager, I'm not happy paying like two hour's wage for one problem.
“Come on” “come o “
No one's talking about how dangerous that close to the floor macro is ?
The jump down is cool tho, might be worth a ankle
I don’t think it’s that dangerous.
No one came close to missing it because the angle of the wall throws you into that area and if you fall off before you just land on the mats 😃
@@JoshRundle great !
I'd risk a fall on the mats for the move then 😁
I'd immediately gravitate towards the pink climb, I am not friends with those big holds
"Normal, average climber" proceeds to stunt on everyone :D
Swinging over onto the ledge seems fun. I definitely think more people would’ve voted for black if they actually did that move. Except for dave, we didn’t see anyone do that.
At first glance, Pink... definitely pink. The expensive one doesnt look like "real" climbing.
why is the screw drive machine ratcheting all the way. it at least sounds that way. wouldn't it make sense just to spin "freely" at the end, controlled my torque?
The black would have run soooo much better without the ledge.
It I liked the ledge 😅
damn Dave is strong asf nothing avarage about him hahahaha
He’s a strong 💪 boi
Be sure to set fall hazards, Josh! :)
Safety first!
Both were nice, but I did feel that the big "rest spot" on Josh's was unnecessary.
Unnecessary but beautiful 😉
What climbing hangar is this. Is it Sandhills?
"i don't feel like I should be trusted with this wholes"
Where can I get Dave's shirt??
What is this gym called? It looks good
I have seen so many people hurt themselves using smooth dual text for feet, i would probably skip it for that reas alone. Not worth slipping and hitting your ankle on the large hold below
Just don't use it
ME !!! It was my 2nd or 3rd week and I had seen others climbing with no issue on those . I got to the top . Put my foot on one of the slippery ones lost my hold and fell from the top 😵💫😵💫😵💫😵💫. I landed so hard ! People ran over to see if I was ok 🤣I was so embarrassed I got right up and said I’m fine I’m fine and kept climbing but the next day my ankle and elbow hurt SO bad
vote for josh
Fun video! Now show me where I can buy those holds for only $20...
Thanks 😊. Good question, that’s what the gym told me they were, maybe they had a trade account.
what trousers is ben wearing?
Don't think I've laughed so much at a climbing video!
Wooo! Thanks for watching!
This is like saying it’s not you it’s me 🥺
What's this gym called?
i live right by there
Bens boulder looks more my style as it is crimps which I like! :) probably get more success from his 😂
What were they doing with the pole thing? Also why didn't they let that girl on the show at the end climbing
Those 20 screw-ons cost way more than 20 dollars... For comparison Unit brands Showstoppers 06, 25 xs screw-ons are 165 dollars.
Oh right, that’s just what the gym and setters told me they cost them. Maybe they got a good deal or trade order.
lets put a slippery foothold above a huge ledge on a slab, what could go wrong? hahaha
😂 #dangerelement